Aksum - Aksum

Aksum · አክሱም
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Aksum (amharic: አክሱም, Ak̠ʷsəm, also Axum) is a city of 67,000 inhabitants in the Tigray region in Ethiopia, South from Eritreawith whom she shares the Tigrinya language.

The city was the administrative center of one of the great empires of the ancient world alongside those of Rome, Persia and China for nearly 800 years and remains the ecclesiastical capital of the Ethiopian Church. It is famous for its steles, churches, monasteries, tombs and the ruins of palaces and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980.

It is one of the cleaner and better-maintained Ethiopian cities with cobbled side streets and attractive flame trees that provide shade in the main street.

getting there

By plane

Given the often difficult conditions on Ethiopian roads, a flight to Axum is a much more reasonable option.

  • 1  Axum Airport (IATA: AXU) (7 km east of the city). Axum Airport in the Wikipedia encyclopediaAxum Airport in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsAxum Airport (Q2469695) in the Wikidata database.There are daily flights from Addis Ababa, Gondar and Lalibela. Some flights are direct, others make stopovers. Taxis are readily available at the airport and will be happy to take you into town. A minibus costs 75 Birr per person (as of 5/2019) and takes 15 minutes. Many hotels also offer van service to and from the airport.(14 ° 8 ′ 13 ″ N.38 ° 46 '34 "E.)

It is likely that you will be subjected to three security checks prior to your departure from Yohannes IV./Axum Airport. There is a security check on the way to the airport, a security check on entering the airport and a security check after check-in.

By bus

Buses from Addis Ababa need at least three days to get over This and Mekele to travel. It's a very tough ride over bumpy roads.

Take from Gondar get off the morning bus to Shire (aka Inda Silasie) and change there to Axum. You can get through in a day. The section of Debark to Inda Aba Guna (70 km from Shire) is one of the most spectacular in Africa and used to be very rough, but most of it was paved in late 2017. It takes another 90 minutes from Shire to Axum, also on an asphalt road.

From Debark and the Simien mountains only one bus runs north from Gondar to Shire. It is often already full by the time he arrives in Debark. You can either take the risk - it's not always full - or hire someone from Debark for around 150 birr to drive to Gondar the day before and reserve a seat on the Shire bus to Debark. (You must make these arrangements the morning before the day you plan to leave. If you are hiking, you can make arrangements before you set out on the trek.) There are many buses between Shire and Axum.

To go the other way from Axum to Gondar, you will need to take an afternoon bus to Shire / Inda Silasie, spend the night there, and take the morning bus to Gondar. You can get off in Debark, but you will likely have to pay the full Gondar tariff (around 50 birr).

By car

It is possible to get from Addis Ababa to Axum (and vice versa) in a long day, although two days are more likely. Drivers can be arranged through hotels or travel agencies and, while not necessarily the cheapest option (especially if you can take advantage of Ethiopian Airlines discounts), they are faster and / or more comfortable than other public transport.

mobility

City map of Aksum

Drivers of a Bajaj (blue, three-wheeled motor rickshaw with 250 cc two-stroke engines that were imported from India) charge around 20 birr for short trips in the city for tourists. For the Lioness of Gobodra and the Judith / Gudit Field of Stelae, instead of renting one of the extremely expensive tourist minibuses, you can take a minibus towards Shire (there are plenty in the early morning) and ask them to drop you off at the junction for Lioness deposed from Gobodra. You have to stop another bus for the return trip. The lioness is not easy to find, but soon a group of children will appear to guide you and they should be adequately compensated.

Tourist Attractions

Archaeological sites

Ezana's great stele
The Great Stele weighed more than 500 tonnes when quarried and dressed 4 km away - how ever was it moved!?!

Archaeological ticket: 300 Birr (as of 5/2019). It is available from the Tourist Commission at the roundabout 400 m south of the northern field of stelae and is valid for three days.

  • The 1 northern field of stelae consists of numerous steles, including the overturned giant stele, the standing Ezana stele and the obelisk of Axum, graves and a very interesting museum. A flashlight should be carried.
The monolithic steles are made of solid granite. Their secret lies in the fact that it is not known exactly by whom and for what purpose they were made, although they have probably been associated with burials of great emperors. The 24-meter-high Ezana stele is slightly inclined in the middle of the field and, as a precaution, is supported against tipping over. Another stele, the 24.8-meter-high Axum Obelisk, overturned when the graves were looted around the 10th century AD. It was stolen by the occupying forces of fascist Italy and placed in Rome from 1937 to 2005. It was brought back to Axum and erected again in 2008 between the Ezana stele and the giant stele.
The Great Stele, the largest monolith in the world, measures over 33 meters and weighs over 500 tons. It overturned sometime in the 4th century AD while attempting to impose itself and is now lying on the floor, broken to pieces. To the south of the stele is the associated grave slab of Nafas Mawcha.
The mausoleum and the brick arches tomb are now open to the public again. The Fake Door Tomb is very impressive with its meticulous craftsmanship.
  • From the southern part of the northern field of stelae one arrives to the east in the 2 northeastern part of the northern field of stelae.
  • 3  Archaeological Museum (west next to the northern field of stelae). Prohibition of photography.(14 ° 7 '58 "N.38 ° 43 '9 "E)

The following sites are outside of the city:

  • 4  Mai Shum. So-called bath of the Queen of Sheba.(14 ° 8 ′ 3 ″ N.38 ° 43 '17 "E)
  • 5  Ezana written stele in three languages. Ezana written stele in three languages ​​in the Wikipedia encyclopediaThree-language stele of Ezana in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsEzana stele in three languages ​​(Q2068595) in the Wikidata database.On the well-preserved, 2 m high, thin stele with inscriptions in Greek, Ge'ez and Latin, which was discovered by a farmer in the 1980s, Ezana praised God for his help in conquering the land in what is now Yemen. She casts a killing curse on anyone who dares to move her. It is now in a small round building on the left side of the bumpy road from the northern field of stelae to the tombs of the kings Kaleb and Gebre Maskal. This little building has a padlock on it, but the key holder magically appears (except at lunchtime between 12:00 PM and 2:30 PM) if you are patient. The building will be renovated from May 2019.(14 ° 8 ′ 16 ″ N.38 ° 43 '22 "E)
  • 6  Tombs of the kings Caleb and Gebre Maskal. A 20-minute walk northeast along the bumpy road from the northern field of stelae. Impressive foundations and graves. Be sure to bring a flashlight. From here a signposted and very pleasant walk leads you uphill through huge lobelia-shaded alleys to the monastery of Abba Pantaleon.(14 ° 8 ′ 32 ″ N.38 ° 43 '45 "E)
  • 7  Dungur Palace (so-called palace of the Queen of Sheba) (out of town to the west, on the north side of the main Shire road). Dungur Palace in the Wikipedia encyclopediaDungur Palace in the Wikimedia Commons media directoryDungur Palace (Q3716270) in the Wikidata database.The large entrance stairs and the up to 3 m high foundations of this palace near the Judith stele field clearly indicate that this was the largest and most impressive palace in Axum. Although everyone calls it the Palace of the Queen of Sheba, it actually dates back to the 7th century AD, roughly 1,500 years after the time of the Queen of Sheba.(14 ° 7 '36 "N.38 ° 42 '24 "E.)
  • 8  Judith field of stelae (Gudit field of stelae) (out of town to the west, on the south side of the main Shire road). Of poor quality compared to Northern Stelae Field. Across the street from Dungur Palace.(14 ° 7 '33 "N.38 ° 42 '23 "E.)
  • 9  Lion of Gobodra (Lioness of Gobedra). Lion of Gobodra in the Wikipedia encyclopediaLion of Gobodra (Q4270932) in the Wikidata database.A rock carving of a lion a few miles outside of town towards the Shire. The rock is near the quarry where the steles were made. Ask a local boy to show you where the rock is.(14 ° 7 ′ 0 ″ N.38 ° 41 ′ 0 ″ E)

St. Mary of Zion Complex

Chapel of the Ark of the Covenant south of the Cathedral of St. Mary of Zion

Church tickets: 200 Birr (as of 5/2019) in 1 Ticket office.

  • 10  Cathedral of St. Mary of Zion. Erected in the 1960s under Heile Selasie and consecrated in 1964.(14 ° 7 '49 "N.38 ° 43 '11 "E)
  • 11  Church of St. Mary of Zion (አክሱም ጽዮን). Church of St. Mary of Zion in the Wikipedia encyclopediaChurch of St. Mary of Zion in the Wikimedia Commons media directoryChurch of St. Mary of Zion (Q1150986) in the Wikidata database.Church built by Emperor Fasiladas in 1665, which is not accessible to women. Pilgrims flock to the church to celebrate a festival on Hidar 21 (November 30th).(14 ° 7 '46 "N.38 ° 43 '9 "E)
  • 12  Chapel of the Ark of the Covenant. According to Ethiopian legend, this complex is the repository of the Ark of the Covenant, which Menelik I, Solomon's own son of the legendary Queen of Sheba, is said to have stolen from the Temple of Jerusalem according to God's will. The chapel in which the ark is kept is not accessible to anyone, not even to the Ethiopian emperors. The Ark of the Covenant is guarded by a monk. Before his death, he determines his successor.(14 ° 7 '47 "N.38 ° 43 '11 "E)
  • 13  Archaeological site and Mangesha mausoleum(14 ° 7 '48 "N.38 ° 43 '10 "E)

Other churches

  • 14  Arbate Ensessa Church (southwest of the St Mary of Zion Complex). Open: 8 a.m. - 12 p.m.(14 ° 7 '44 "N.38 ° 43 '3 "E)
  • 15  Enda Iyesus Church (north of the northern field of stelae). Closed but interesting murals on the outside walls.(14 ° 8 ′ 0 ″ N.38 ° 43 '11 "E)
  • 16  Abuna Aregawi Church(14 ° 8 ′ 0 ″ N.38 ° 43 '18 "E)
  • 17  Church of the Enda Abba Libanos (southeast of the tombs of the kings Kaleb and Gebre Maskal on the mountain of the same name). (14 ° 8 ′ 25 ″ N.38 ° 44 ′ 1 ″ E)
  • 18  Church of the Abba Pantaleon (Abba Penalewan). Abba Pantaleon Church in the Wikimedia Commons media directoryChurch of Abba Pantaleon (Q56072941) in the Wikidata database.This 6th-century monastery sits on the 40m high cliff of Debre Katin and offers a breathtaking panorama of the tortuous and whimsical shapes of the Adwa Mountains, but women may not enter this beautifully simple structure. The priest usually fetches some parchment manuscripts, brass crosses and crowns, and other relics from his treasury.(14 ° 8 ′ 21 ″ N.38 ° 44 ′ 27 ″ E)

Church museums

More Attractions

  • 21  Ezana park. The park contains a number of outdoor pool tables and another table in a circular building from the time of King Ezana, inscribed in Ge'ez, Greek, and Sabaean.(14 ° 7 ′ 27 ″ N.38 ° 43 '30 "E)

activities

According to the sign of the fig tree near the church complex, a replicated ark of the covenant is displayed on the first seven days of each month according to the Ethiopian calendar at 9:00 p.m. The time is indefinite.

to buy

There is an ATM at Wegagen Bank that accepts Visa cards.

  • Aksum Market

kitchen

  • AB restaurant (near the Ethiopian Airlines office). Tel.: 251 912 955 022. Serves traditional dishes with dancing on Saturday nights.Open: 6 a.m. - 10 p.m.
  • Africa Hotel (see below accommodation further down). The hotel has a large, clean restaurant in which a steak club sandwich with lettuce and tomato and French fries cost 30 birr in June 2013. Traditional and other “international” dishes are also served, and the bar has a large screen LCD TV if you want to watch football or the manic, shoulder-shaking style of local dancing.
  • Pizza restaurant (one block east of the Africa Hotel, turn north on the street that leads to the Remhai Hotel. This little restaurant is on the right side of the street.). A large pizza, but not as we know it in Italy, Croatia, Canada or Singapore, cost 60 birr in June 2013.
  • Ezana Cafe, Aksum. Really good cafe, mostly local clientele; Good coffee, breakfast, Ethiopian food. Near Ezana Park.

Going out

  • Underground (near the Ambassador Hotel in the west of the city). Large selection of imported spirits.
  • zebra (also near the Ambassador Hotel). Reasonable prices for drinks with a Dashen or St George beer which costs 20 birr and is popular with the ladies. DJ and dance every evening.Open: until around 3 a.m.

accommodation

  • 1  Africa Hotel (On the main road from Shire to Axum Airport in the middle of town). Tel.: 251 347 753 700. One of the most popular hotels in town for travelers with a tolerable, if not really desirable, restaurant with excellent salads, a small bar and a friendly, helpful owner / manager. The rooms are triple, double or single with satellite TV and individual bathrooms that are said to have hot water showers. Nice, secure courtyard with fruit trees. Free WiFi and airport transfer.Price: from 175 birr for a single room.Accepted payment methods: MasterCard, Visa.(14 ° 7 ′ 29 ″ N.38 ° 43 '58 "E.)
  • Atse Kaleb Hotel. Tel.: 251 (0)34 775 2222. Good location halfway within walking distance between the city attractions and restaurants. Nice garden but with loud music. Worthless Wi-Fi. It takes an hour for the food to arrive. The bar has slow service as the barmaid does not have access to the cash register which is in a different room.Price: from 400 Birr for a double room.
  • 2  Brana Hotel (on the main Shire road to Axum Airport, east side of the road). Tel.: 251 347 752 349. This is one of the three most luxurious and modern hotels in the city and everything works - unusual for Ethiopia. The rooms are large and luxurious and well furnished. The rooms are located on the first floor and have a balcony with a good view of the surrounding mountains. Restaurant with excellent salads, a large bar. The rooms are triple, double, twin or single with satellite TV and large bathrooms, all with hot showers, and 20 of the 28 rooms have hip baths. Secure courtyard with parking for 12 vehicles. The conference room can accommodate up to 300 people with an overhead projector and whiteboard, etc. Standby generator with 26 kW. Free WiFi and airport transfer.Price: from 900 birr for a single room.Accepted payment methods: MasterCard, Visa.(14 ° 7 '28 "N.38 ° 44 ′ 30 ″ E)
  • 3  Consolar Hotel, St. Gabriel Clinic Main Road. Tel.: 251 (0)34 775 5306, Mobile: 251 (0)92 022 4826, Fax: 251 (0)34 7754960. Business hotel with a decent restaurant and free WiFi.(14 ° 7 '28 "N.38 ° 44 ′ 31 ″ E)
  • 4  Sabean International Hotel (ሳቢያን ኢንተርናሽናል ሆቴል). Tel.: 251 (0)34 775 1224, Fax: 251 (0)34 775 1218. Business style hotel, decent by Ethiopian standards, bad by western standards. The restaurant is one of the better ones in town.(14 ° 7 ′ 27 ″ N.38 ° 43 '54 "E.)
  • 5  Yared Zema International Hotel, Tabiya Hayelom, Kebele 04, Axum. Tel.: 251 (0)34 775 4817. Newer hotel.(14 ° 7 ′ 27 ″ N.38 ° 44 ′ 3 ″ E)
  • 6  Yeha Hotel. Tel.: 251 (0)34 775 2379, Fax: 251 (0)34 775 2382. A state hotel overlooking the field of the northern stele. Good restaurant with mediocre service. Excellent view from the terrace.Price: from $ 55.(14 ° 7 '56 "N.38 ° 43 ′ 20 ″ E)

trips

By minibus to Shire (40 Birr), Adwa (about 26 birr).

With the minibus to Yehato see a temple of a pre-Christian and pre-Akumite civilization, a church and a small museum.

literature

  • General administration of the Royal Museums in Berlin (Ed.): German Aksum expedition. Berlin: Reimer, 1913. 4 volumes: (1): Travel report of the expedition: Topography and history of Aksum, (2) Older monuments of North Abyssinia (Text and Panel tape), (3) Secular and cult buildings from the old and recent times in North Abessia, (4) Sabaic, Greek and Old Abyssinian inscriptions.
  • Breyer, Francis: The Kingdom of Aksum: History and Archeology of Abyssinia in Late Antiquity. Darmstadt ; Mainz: Publishing house Philipp von Zabern, 2012, Zabern's illustrated books on archeology: special volumes of the ancient world, ISBN 978-3-8053-4460-9 .
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