Quetzaltenango, also Xela (pronounced: 'Schela') or Xelaju (read: 'Shela-chu' with a 'ch' as in 'roof') is the second largest city in Guatemala. It is located in the southwest of the country, in the homonymous Departmento (Administrative district), which unites a multitude of landscapes. In the Departemento Quetzaltenango you can find everything - from the cool Highlands all the way to the warm areas of the Pacific. There are numerous volcanoes, hot springs, valleys, mountains and rivers. Coffee, wheat, fruit and vegetables are grown in the region and sheep and cattle are also raised.
background
The best way to get to Quetzaltenango is via the Panamericana (CA-1), which runs through the Guatemalan highlands, or via the western expressway (CA-2) that runs parallel to the Pacific coast.
Quetzaltenango can be reached by bus from many cities. Important bus connections for the traveler lead to, among other things Guatemala City and Antigua.
There are two different bus systems in Guatemala. On the one hand there are the local buses (Camionetas). These are discarded school buses from the USA that are now running in the country, painted in bright colors. Traveling in a Camioneta can be very uncomfortable - the buses are not well sprung, usually overcrowded and very noisy. Therefore, they are more recommended for shorter journeys within the city or to nearby locations. However, they are very cheap (a trip from Guatemala City to Quetzaltenango costs about $ 3.30 as of October 2007) and the trip with them is definitely an interesting experience that gives you the chance to get to know Guatemalans. It is advisable not to have too much luggage with you on such journeys, because luggage that cannot fit on your lap will be transported on the roof of the bus. It is generally safe there, but exposed to the weather.
For just a little more money you can take one of the modern intercity buses, which are much faster and have comfortable seats. Such intercity buses are operated, for example, by the bus companies Galgos and Alamo (the journey from Guatemala City to Xela with such a bus costs about 7.50 US dollars, as of summer 2006).
From the center of Quetzaltenango you can walk to any point in the city in around 30 minutes. Alternatively, you can take one of the numerous minibuses that connect all parts of the city with each other. These don't offer much space and cost a quetzal. The regular buses cost less, but are also slower and run less frequently.
The already mentioned camionetas are well suited for exploring the surrounding places.
Taxis are easy to find in the city, especially where the nightlife is happening. Especially for people who are traveling alone, it is not safe to walk through the city in the dark. It is therefore advisable to take a taxi. It is best to find a taxi in a central location and not in one of the side streets. The fare should be negotiated BEFORE departure.
Tourist Attractions
The city retains traces of colonial times in its streets and avenues. Classical, Neoclassical and Italian Renaissance can be found on the buildings and houses built from volcanic rock by "Quetzalteco" masons during the last century. Some examples of the architectural styles:
- Espiritu Santo Cathedral. Consists of two structures. The “Espiritu Santo”, the old facade of the community (1535/1896) and to the rear “Diócesis de Los Altos” (1899).
- Municipal theater. A very important neoclassical work.
- Central America Park, is located in the city center and is also the center of cultural activities and entertainment.
- Enrique passage, near Central Park.
- Gobernacion, one block from Central Park.
- Cerro Del Baúl. A visit to Cerro Del Baúl, from where you have a beautiful view of the valley, is recommended (accessible on foot, by car or taxi).
Quetzaltenango has important cultural functions. You can find it there House of Occidental Culture (La Casa de la Cultura De Occidente), and the Alliance Française de Quetzalteango; numerous events take place throughout the year.
On the first Sunday of every month, the "Quetzaltecos" bring their handicrafts to the artisans' market in Central Park, where work from the surrounding villages is also on display. In September the annual fair and a festival take place from the 12th to the 18th.
shop
There are many opportunities to buy goods in Xela. Mayans offer you goods to buy, especially in the city center, for example blankets and other handicrafts. There are regular markets in and around Xela.
kitchen
- Comida Taiwanesa. Her specialty is the Taiwanese empenada, which is entirely vegetarian. They cost Q2.50 a piece and two are a decent snack. They also sell soy milk and snails with all kinds of toppings. Located in the south of Parque Centrale in calle 8a between avenida 8a and avenida 9a.
- La Galera, one block from Parque Central, 3rd calle 13-00, Zona 1. Nice little bar with mostly local customers. Small dishes such as sandwiches and soups at moderate prices.
Use only drinking water (agua pura). Cabro, which some consider to be one of the best beers in the world, is brewed in Quetzaltenango.
accommodation
- Hostal Posada La Estacion, 2a Calle, Callejon 15 2-34. Tel.: 502 7761-9957, Email: [email protected]. Between 15 Avenida "A" and 16 Avenida, Zona 1.Walk off the beaten path as Casa Argentina, but closer to parque Central. Run by a very nice woman with years of experience hosting hikers (Dona Blanca). It has a kitchen, 24 hour hot water, free bicyles that guests can borrow and a family atmosphere.Price: Q30 for a dorm room, Q40 for a single room.
- Itzamna Xela Homestay. E-mail: [email protected]. is a service that puts travelers with a family for a homestay. You can accommodate stays from a few days to months.
Learn
Xela is an excellent place for a language course (Spanish and some of the Mayan languages). There are many different schools and non-governmental organizations here, most of which offer courses for one week or more (around 5 hours a day). The offer also includes family accommodation, which is an excellent way to get to know life here and practice the language at the same time. One of the best reasons to study in Xela is the price. You can expect to pay around US $ 170 per week including family stay. This often includes internet access. After arriving in Xela, you can simply go to the schools and enroll. English is spoken in most schools, they are happy to help, and contacts via email are also possible. Sometimes the schools even organize pick-up from Guatemala City Airport.
- Communication & Info Matrix Internet, 5th Street by Central Park.
The salsa scene is also very active in Xela. Lessons are cheap and there are clubs.
Xela is also well known for its many volcanoes, mountains, and hot springs.
- Quetzaltrekkers. Quetzaltrekkers offers trips to the natural wonders at reasonable prices, as well as extensive trekking tours to Lago de Atitlan and the Cuchumatanes. All guides are volunteers or local guides. All profits go to La Escuela de la Calle, a school in the poorest neighborhood of Xela.
