The Ruta del Califato (Route of the Caliphs) leads from Cordoba about Alcalá la Real Granada.
background
This historically interesting route is above all a spiritual experience, but not only. Sporty and culinary experiences can also be made. The two starting and destination points of the trip are Córdoba with the Mezquita as a glamorous highlight of Moorish architecture and Granada with the Alhambra and the Nasrid Palace with its wonderful mannerist stucco and woodwork. You can experience villages and towns that emerged and still flourish today or that fell again. The cities and castles on the heights, surrounded by protective walls, can be seen from afar. Most of the fortresses and settlements were built in the Moorish era. When the area became the border area between Nasrids and Christians in the 11th century and the conflicts intensified, the military structures were strengthened. After endless border battles, the Catholic kings finally managed to recapture the area, which took many years to complete. The route is a living history lesson. It is not only recommended for historical reasons, because the palate is not neglected either. Dishes and sweets based on old Andalusian recipes can be enjoyed in the restaurants. Some short hikes are for fitness.
Two roads lead from Córdoba to Alcalá la Real. One via Espejo, Castro del Rio, Baena, Zuheroa, Luque, Alcaudete, Castillo de Locubín and the second via Fernan Nuñez, Montemayor, Montilla, Aquilar de la Frontera, Lucena, Cabra, Carcabuey, Priego de Córdoba. Here the two paths unite and lead via Moclin, Pinos Puente, Güvejar, Alfacar, Viznar to Granada.
preparation
The best travel times are March to June and September to October. The northern route leads via Baena and the southern via Montilla. The driving distances are 210 and 225 km. Since you want to look at buildings and landscapes on the way, you should allow at least 2, but better 3-4 days. It is advisable to reserve hotel rooms.
getting there
Córdoba and Granada are two major Andalusian cities that can be reached by motorways and with Renfe's fast AVE passenger trains.
More about Cordoba and Granada can be found under Cordoba, Granada and Alhambra and Mezquita
The southern route from Cordoba to Alcalá la Real
The journey goes first on the A-4 motorway in the direction of Seville and then on the A-45 to the exit Fernan Nuñez (35 km). The place is located in a fertile area and houses the castle of the Dukes of Fernan Nuñez from 1878. The first wineries in the region are located here Montilla-Morileswho have favourited a sherry-like, high-alcohol white wine made from the grape variety Pedro Ximénez to produce. The wine is developed as Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso and sweet wine. It has at least 14% by volume. The place has 5138 inhabitants.
Montemayor is the next destination on the route (38 km).
It is one Pueblo Fortaleza (Village fortress). Some believe that Montemayor is the ancient Ulía corresponds to. over Unlia was in Tabula Puetingeriana reported that they were on a road between Cordoba and Anticaria (Antequera )lies. The verifiable origins go to that Legacy(Legacy) that Alfonso Fernández de Córdoba, Lord of Cañete, bequeathed to his son in 1325. It also received the castle Dos Hermanos (two brothers). Since the son had doubts whether this castle would withstand an attack, he had another castle built on a nearby hill in 1340. The village arose around the castle of Montemayor. The material for Montemayor was the old Moorish castle Dos Hermanas taken. Montemayor has steep streets, stately houses and taverns that serve excellent wines. The Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Asunción in the Gothic Mudejar style is worth seeing.
The next much bigger place is called Montilla (49 km) and is the heart of the wine production of Montilla-Moriles. The Bodega Cruz Conde is purveyor to the Spanish court. You can visit them and buy wine. The hero of Cordoba, Gran Capitán called, was actually called Fernándo Gonzales. He was born in Montilla in 1443. He was an Andalusian nobleman, son of the noble knight Don Pedro Fernández de Córdoba, 5th lord of Aguilar de la Frontera and husband of the noble lady Doña Elvira de Herrera y Enríquez. Because of his military and diplomatic successes (especially in the war against Granada and the negotiations with the last Granadin Sultan Boabdil) he earned the title of "Gran Capitán". in the Palacio Inca Garcilaso In the 16th century an Andalusian nobleman lived with an Inca princess. The palace is now the town hall of Montilla. There is a museum. Montilla had another important historical significance. Defeated here in 45 BC BC Caesar with his legions his adversary Pompey. Montilla has a population of 24,000. The tourist office is on Calle San Luis 8. The pilgrimage to the Virgen de Aracelli takes place at the beginning of May. The wine festival is at the beginning of September.
It goes on after Aquilar de la Frontera (58 km), which, as the name suggests, has been a border town between the Moorish and Christian empires for many years. The Romans named the place Iapgro and the Moors Bulay or Poley. The Moorish sultan Omar ben Hafsun built a strong fortress, which he lost to Abdallah ibn Muhammed in the year 891 during the war. In 1260 the Christians conquered the city and gave it its current name. The castle is only a ruin. A tourist office can be found in Cuesta de Jesús 2. The pilgrimage takes place ten days after Corpus Christi Virgen de los Remedios instead of.
In the furniture city Lucena (76 km) refrigerators, lamps and ceramics are also produced. The big ones Tinajas (Clay jugs) used to be used as storage containers for wine and oil. In the past only Jews lived in the city. The Jews of Lucena were successful merchants and artisans. According to a Moorish author, they were richer than the inhabitants of other cities. They enjoyed the same freedoms as Muslims in the big cities. Their rabbi was elected by the entire city and had special privileges. He also acted as a judge. The Jews lived here peacefully until the conquest by the Almoravid tribe. At the beginning of the 11th century, some Jewish scholars lived in Lucena. Isaac Alfasi founded a large Talmud school. Isaac ibn Ghayyat, Isaac ibn Albalia, and Joseph ibn Migash were also famous. Lucena was wrested from the Moors in the early 14th century and King Boabdil of Granada was captured in 1483. The Iglesia San Mateo dates from the end of the 15th century and is well worth seeing. The pilgrimage church is just outside Virgen de Aracelli. The painting of the Senora de Araceli came from Rome in the 16th century. In 1948 she became the patroness of Lucena. The city has 38,600 residents. The tourist office is at Plaza Nueva 1.
The next place on the route of the caliphs is Cabra (86 km) the entrance gate to Sierra Subbética. Cabra has 20,700 inhabitants. There is an archaeological museum and the Iglesia de la Asunción y Angeles. The pilgrimage church is 5 km away Virgen de la Sierra. The pilgrimage Virgen de la Sierra is from 4.-8. September. The tourist office is on Calle Santa Rosalia 2. Cabra takes place on a weekend in June Romería Nacional de los Gitanos instead of.
Carcabuey (95 km) is a small town with 2,800 inhabitants, two churches, a hermitage and a medieval castle from the 13th-14th centuries. It is located in the heart of the Sierra Subbetica. The tourist office is in Plaza España. Carcabuey is an ideal starting point for hiking in the Sierra.
Priego de Cordoba (110 km) is a very nice baroque town.
In Moorish times it was an important regional center. The Moorish Castillo is evidence of this. Are worth seeing Iglesia de la Asunción with the chapel, Iglesia de la Aurora, Iglesia San Francisco, as well as the neighborhood Barrio de la Ville and the great fountain Fuente del Rey. The city has 22,800 inhabitants. The tourist office is on Calle Rio 3 on the Funete de Rey.
From here you drive 24 km Alcála la Real (134 km). Carthaginians and Romans have already settled the place. For a long time the place was a hotly contested border town. The fortress on the mountain Fortaleza de la Mota was built in the 11th century. She can tell a lot of battle stories. It was first conquered by Christians in 1213. After that there was a lot of back and forth until she finally became Christian in 1341. She got the name affix la real (the royal one) and remained hotly contested. Refugees from Granada sought refuge in Alcalá la Real. Moorish baths have been found during excavations. The Iglesia Santa Maria la Mayor from the 16th century next to the castle, Napoléon's soldiers had set fire to it. It has only now been restored. The Iglesia Nuestra Señora de las Angustias and the fountain Puente del Pilar are worth seeing. Alcalá La Real is the gateway to the fertile Vega of Granada. The name of the city goes on Quality (fortified settlement) back. Quality was ruled by Moors for six hundred years. At the end of the 15th century the Reyes catholicos (Catholic kings) Ferdinand and Isabella from here to Granada to receive the keys of the Alhambra from the last Moorish king Boabdil. The tourist office is in Paseo de los Álamos.
The northern route from Córdoba via Baena and Alcaudete to Alcála la Real
The first place on this northern route to Alcála la Real is Espejo (Mirror). This first stage is 34 km long. The place is between olive groves on a hill. The castle is privately owned and cannot be visited.
Castro del Rio is the next destination (40 km). Castro del Rio, The city is located on the Rio Guadajoz. There are wool factories, salt pans, limestone and gypsum quarries. 11,821 people live here. It is believed that Castro del Rio was founded by the Romans. There's a castle that Iglesia de la Asunción and the Casa de Medinaceli to watch. Here the Spanish national poet Cervantes spent a time in prison as a civil servant in 1592 because he had the idea of collecting taxes from the clergy. In the dungeon he had time to think. This is how the first pages of the Don Quixote. The pilgrimage to Virgen de Salud takes place in June. The journey continues through olive groves, up and down as far as the eye can see
Baena (60 km) is the center of olive oil production in the province of Cordoba. The old town is Moorish.
The Iglesia Santa Maria la Mayor from the 16th century is worth seeing. Some parts are even older (13th century). The Convento Madre de Dios was founded in 1510. The city with 19,700 inhabitants is located on the slope of a hill. The old town has narrow streets. It lies below the ruins of a castle from the 9th century. City gates used to lead to the fortified part of the city. On the Plaza de la Constitución, next to buildings from the 18th century, the Casa del Monte. In the Casa de la Tercia from the end of the 18th century is now the local history museum. The tourist office is at 9 Plaza de España Romeria (Pilgrimage) to Virgen Blanca de la Alegria is at the end of June. Carnival is also celebrated in Baena.
It goes on after Zuheros (70 km), a small town with 850 inhabitants and a picturesque castle on the mountain. They are worth seeing Plaza de la Paz (Friedensplatz) and the Iglesia Virgen de los Remedios. About 4 km outside of the village is the Cueva de los Murciélagos (Stalactite cave) with old drawings.
The place Luque (76 km) has 3,270 inhabitants. The Iglesia de la Asunción is interesting. This also applies to the Plaza de España. Luque is a starting point for hikes. The Romeria (Pilgrimage) after San Isido takes place on May 15th.
Alcaudete (96 km) is a town with 11,150 inhabitants, nestled between olive groves and vineyards. It belongs to the province of Jaen. The castle is enthroned on a hill above the city. Iglesia Santa Maria.
Castillo de Locubin (115 km) is a small town with 4,900 inhabitants off the N-432. There is a great viewpoint of the Rio San Juan and the reservoir.
The goal of this northern red is Alcalá la Real (125 km), which has already been described above.
The reunited route from Alcalá la Real to Granada
Pinos Puente (161 km) is surrounded by farmland on the N-432. The place has 13,100 inhabitants and a bridge from the 7th century is a landmark.
The goal Granada (180 km) is only 19 km away. A detour through the north of Vega, a fertile plain, is therefore recommended.
Detour through the northern Vega
20 km south of Alcalá la Real, turn left from the N-432 onto a beautiful road and reach after 4.5 km
Moclín (148 km). The small village, about 1,000 m high, with 4,300 inhabitants has a lot to offer historically and also a beautiful view of the Sierra Nevada, which is still snow-covered in spring. Nearby there are rock carvings and Neolithic rock formations in caves as evidence of early settlement. The Moorish castillo and the fortification walls date from the 12th-14th centuries. Century Reyes catholicos Ferdinand and Isabella tried to take Moclín in 1485 without success. It was not until July of the following year (1486) that the Castilian Christians overwhelmed the Moors in a savage attack, who had to surrender. The Iglesia Santa Cristo del Paño from the 16th century was built on the walls of a mosque. The church was damaged and restored during the civil war. The Eremita de San Anton (Hermitage) is the focus of interest on January 17th, because that is the day of the patron saint, San Anton of Moclín. Stand around the village Moorish atalayas (Watchtowers). From here the Nasrids could control all Christian troop movements. The best watchtowers are in the villages of Solana and Tózar, which politically belong to Moclín. The Casa del Pósito from the 14th century was created by the famous Spanish sculptor Pablo de Rojas. This is where the wheat was stored. From Mirador de Moclin you have a beautiful view. The Romeria (Pilgrimage) to Cristo del Paño takes place on October 5th.
Colomera (164 km) on the Rio Colomera is a bit out of the way. A Visigothic cemetery from the 4th-7th centuries. Century indicates an early foundation. The Romans named the place Columbaria. You have a bridge over the Rio Colomera and a piece of the old Roman road on the Molino del Puente (Bridge mill) or Molino de Zacarías leave. The necropolis in also dates from Roman times Era del Chopo. Under the Moors who made the place Qulumbayra called, Colomera had the task of defending Granada and supplying the capital with grain and meat. Colomera is a village with narrow and steep streets on the slope of a hill topped by the remains of a Moorish fortress. You can go hiking, fishing and canoeing in Colomera and the surrounding area. Part of the cultural heritage is Iglesia Parroquial de la Encarnación an art historical monument. Colomera wants to go to the nearby reservoir Embalse de Colomera develop a tourist facility with hotels, restaurants and sports facilities.
Güejevár (184 km) is known for its good sausage products. It's a small village. There is a baroque church in the Plaza de la Constitución.
Cogollos Vega (189 km) is a mountain village with 1,950 inhabitants not far from the capital, Granada. It is in the nature reserve of the Sierra de Huétor in which mainly stone and mountain oaks grow. The mountain Peñon de la Mata is 2,500 m high. From up here you have a wonderful view over the whole of Vega and the Sierra Nevada. Hiking, exploring caves, mountaineering and hang gliding are offered. The Bermejo rises here. The Barranco Hondo and the reservoir of Cubillas are not far away. Archaeological finds show a settlement in the Paleolithic. There are also finds from the Roman, Visigothic and Moorish times. The nearby Granada has always had a strong influence. B. by the consequences of Reconquista (Reconquest) and later resettlement.
Alfacar (197 km) is 7 km from Granada at an altitude of 910 m. It belongs to the fertile plains of Granada (Vega de Granada) edge of the nature reserve Sierra de Huetor. There are many springs in Alfacar. Tasty bread is baked and there are numerous archaeological finds from the Neolithic period. Alfacar was first mentioned in the Zirid era (1010-1090). It was the settlement of the potters or the clay. Al-Jatib and Ibn Battuta (14th and 15th centuries) describe Alfacar as a place of leisure where you could relax. But the village also saw a lot of fighting during the final years of the Reconquista. On December 22nd, 1491 the Moors capitulate. In 1579 the Morisks were expelled by Felipe II. The gaps were filled again by Castilian families. The poet Federico García Lorca was murdered in one of the ravines between Alfacar and Víznar. Are worth seeing El caracolar, the sources Fuente Grande, Fuente Chica y Fuente del Morquíl. The Parque homenaje a Federico García Lorca (Park in memory of Federico García Lorca)
Víznar (203 km) is like Alfacar at the foot of the nature park Sierra de Huetor. The village has 750 inhabitants and is 1,074 m above sea level, making it the highest place in the Sierra de Huetor. At the Plaza de la Constitución and the Plaza Noguera are the art-historically interesting buildings, the Ayuntamiento (City Hall), the parish church, the Palacio del Cuzco (Archbishop's Palace) and beautiful residential buildings. In Víznar there is a visitor center of the nature reserve of the Sierra Huétor. There is a lookout point here with a great view of the Sierra Nevada.
Víznar is a Moorish foundation. The water of the Fuente de Aynadamar (Source) flows into the Albayzín district of Granada. Wealthy families from Granada built their summer residence here, because the good climate and the pure water attracted them. Víznar was also attractive to the archbishops of Granada. Archbishop Modcoso y Peralta left the Palacio de Cuzco to build. Víznar was not conquered by the Christians until 1491. The Moors were expelled after an uprising in the 16th century. The place was later repopulated.
Granada (210 km) is the destination of the Ruta del Califato. The sights of this great city can be found here Granada and Alhambra.
