San Miguel is an Afro-Ecuadorian community in the province Esmeraldas North of Ecuador. The village is one of the starting points for visits to the Cotacachi-Cayapas National Park, which is one of the 10 global hotspots of biodiversity. The residents run an ecotourism project to protect the area from deforestation. There is an opportunity to teach English in the village school.
getting there
There is a daily passenger boat from Borbón. The boat is operated and financed by the community. It is the only way to move people, food and materials between San Miguel and the nearest connection point to the public road network in Borbón. Maintaining this daily boat connection is very expensive and you are happy about every passenger. The river port of Borbón is just off the road that connects Esmeraldas with San Lorenzo, about an hour from San Lorenzo. All buses between these two cities stop in Borbón. The buses run every 30 to 60 minutes. A taxi from San Lorenzo to Borbón costs around $ 25.
The boat to San Miguel departs daily at 9:30 a.m. from the river port in Borbón. It can take up to 20 passengers. The ride is $ 10 and takes about 4 hours. The boat departs from San Miguel to Borbón at around 2:45 a.m. every day. It rains less often at night and in the morning than in the afternoon. It is recommended to put your luggage in plastic bags so that it does not get wet in case it rains.
There is no road leading to either San Miguel or any of the surrounding villages. There are also no footpaths between the various villages in the area. The area can only be reached via the river.
mobility
Dense rainforest begins right behind the community hotel in San Miguel. There is a network of footpaths several kilometers long that connects several clearings where locals grow pineapples, plantains, and yucca. A new 12 km long circular route through partly primary forest was opened in October 2017.
The fastest way to get around is by the river, referred to by the locals as their "highway". You can easily find someone who shows you around in his motorized canoe for a fee.
In March 2017 it was possible to rent a dugout canoe, a good way to be mobile on your own. You can use it to explore the Rio Cayapas, the somewhat quieter Rio San Miguel and several kilometers of canals. In the rainy season it is not always easy to go against the current.
Tourist Attractions
activities
- Sit on the beautiful wooden terrace of the communal hotel and watch the colorful birds in the treetops a few meters away
- Wander alone and undisturbed through the wild, untouched rainforest
- swim in the river where the locals wash their clothes and hair
- rent a dugout canoe and learn to use it.
- Talk to the Afro-Ecuadorian residents - they are friendly, relaxed and reliable. You are curious about life in the (global) north.
- attend a chachi ceremony - There are interesting mass weddings around Easter and Christmas.
- There is a plan (2018?) The rivers Rio Cayapas (San Miguel), Rio Zapayo Grando (Tsejpi) and Rio Santiago (Playa de Oro) to connect with each other by a path through the jungle, including the villages on these rivers as bases. Starting from one of these locations, there are so many alternatives to get to know the region, the villages and cultures - depending on your stamina and thirst for adventure - on 2 - 5-day round trips through the jungle in a very authentic and individual way.
shop
There isn't much to buy in San Miguel. A small shop sells the most essential groceries such as cooking oil and salt. Some locals make handicrafts. The Chachis are known for their wickerwork.
kitchen
There is no restaurant in San Miguel. For 11 dollars per person, a woman from the village comes to the hotel and cooks three meals a day. The meals are very large and consist of several dishes. The quality is excellent. Local ingredients are used.
There are a few small shops in San Miguel where you can buy basic necessities. If you want sweets or snacks, it's best to bring them from Borbón yourself.
There is a source of drinking water behind the hotel that feeds the hotel's water pipes. The water is very clear and tasty. In the hotel kitchen there is a water filter that the water can be passed through before drinking it. Alternatively, drinking water can be bought in the "minitiendas" in the village.
accommodation
The only official place to stay is the lovely communal hotel, a large wooden building on the top of the hill with great views of the river and rainforest. There are around 10 rooms, some with their own bathroom, two large terraces and a kitchen. The mattresses, bedding and towels are new and very clean (2017). The night is 10 dollars per person. For an additional $ 11 you get a generous full board. Ms. Merlin Nazareno, who is responsible for the hotel, can be contacted by phone: 06 03035008. There are usually free rooms. Since there is no other hotel in the area, it is advisable to call a day or two before arrival.
security
There are no security problems whatsoever. The locals all benefit from tourism together. They value and protect tourists.
health
Since recently there are 2 doctors in San Miguel, but with fixed-term contracts (as of October 2017). The nearest health center is in Zapallo Grande, 30 minutes downstream.
San Miguel is practically mosquito free. Malaria prophylaxis is not required.
However, there are very many black flies. Your stings are very itchy and difficult to avoid. Insect repellent only helps partially. Long clothes are the best protection. Black flies only bite during the day, especially when the sun is shining directly on the river bank. They are no longer active after sunset.
In 2014, Ecuador was officially declared free from onchocerciasis (river blindness) by the WHO. This disease was previously transmitted by black flies. [1]
Practical advice
Prepaid internet has been available in the hotel area since October 2017 (the connection is not yet stable, however), and there is no mobile phone reception. There is a stable landline phone line that can be used in urgent cases. The telephone number of Ms. Merlin Nazareno (the hotel manager) is 06 03035008.
