O Iya Valley (祖谷渓 Iya-kei) [1] is a mountain valley in the heart of Shikoku.
Understand
Considered one of the "Three Hidden Valleys" of Japan, Iya was introduced to Japanese and Western imagination by American Alex Kerr. your book Lost Japan presents an idyllic valley with thatched-roof houses, frozen in time.
Today, however, much of Iya has been devoured by what Kerr calls Moloch, its silence broken by the sound of jackhammers as highways and cement hotels are erected to serve visitors. However, although rivers have been replaced by cement and trees by hotels, some of the less-visited parts of the east of the valley are still worth visiting. (If you are looking for something less touristy, the Yagen Valley in Tohoku is your best option).
The valley can be divided in half: the most developed and populated area of West Iya (西祖谷 Nishi-Iya), and the more remote East Iya (東祖谷 Higashi-Iya ), which is also known as Oku-Iya (奥祖谷). There are small settlements (many of them abandoned) along the highway that connects the two, but the biggest one on the east side is the village of Mi-no-Koshi (見ノ越), near Mount Tsurugi and the intersection of three small highways.
To arrive
Getting to the valley no longer requires a week of hiking through foggy mountain trails, but it remains more difficult than for most Japanese destinations.
By train/train
The nearest train station is at oboke, where the Dosan Line passes, between kochi and Takamatsu. O Nanpū also passes through here every hour, coming from okama (¥4410).
From Oboke you can take a bus to Iya West, but services are infrequent: there are up to eight buses a day on weekends in high season (April-November), and only four a day the rest of the year.
By bus/bus
There are 7 direct buses every day from the bus terminal at Awa-Ikeda Station (阿波池田ＢT) in Ikeda, which go to the valley via oboke (4 per day) or via Iyaguchi and Iya Onsen (3 per day). See the website of Yonkoh[2] (in Japanese) to see times; select "祖谷線" (the Iya Valley line) and then look up times in Awa Ikeda (阿波池田ＢT) or Ikeda (池田駅前). Buses end the trip in Kazurabashi (かずら橋) in Iya West or in Kubo (久保) in Iya East.
From Kubo, there is a bus service via Oku-Iya Kazurabashi (奥祖谷かずら橋) to Mi-no-Koshi (見の越), at the base of Mount Tsurugi. There are two buses a day during weekends and in the summer season and none during the winter. Look [3] (in Japanese) for more information including exact dates and times.
There is a similar line coming from the north. Normally, buses from Sadamitsu Station (貞光駅) do not go to Iya Valley, but on weekends and holidays during the summer there are three buses a day to Mi-no-Koshi at the base of Mount Tsurugi. Look [4] (in Japanese) for more information.
By car
If you have a car or want to try your luck hitchhiking, Highway 438 since Sadamitsu and Highway 439 since Anabuki go directly to Iya Este, and are the fastest option if you are coming from Tokushima and Kansai. If you want to go to Mount Tsurugi (剣山) from Sadamitsu (貞光), there is a regular bus service that runs along Route 438, but only to the bottom of the hill. Coming from Mi no Koshi (見ノ越), you need to walk about four hours to the bus station at the base of the mountain. Along the way, try a delicious pasta udon (手打ちうどん), at the riverside restaurant. Traffic is very light, especially on weekdays, and the roads are very narrow and winding.
circle
In the valley, public transport is limited to just a few buses per day. rent a car or hitch a ride it's probably the fastest way to get around, although traffic is very low: even the biggest highways only come by about 3 cars an hour on weekdays, and even less if it's raining.
Yonkoh offers two tourist bus lines[5], both from Awa Ikeda; the first is called Nishi-Iya, the second is called Higashi-Iya (which goes through oboke), with comments in Japanese only.
By bike
It is possible to ride a bike in the Iya Valley, but you need a good bike (you can take it on the train if you put it in a bike bag), strong lungs and a genuine adventurous spirit. Bring water, as vending machines are few and far between. Reduce speed on narrow roads with limited visibility, and always stay as far to the left as possible. Most places are careful when driving. If you reach Mount Tsurugi, you can turn left on the road that leads to Sadamitsu village, which is a spectacular, meandering 25 km descent, with magnificent views of the river and small abandoned villages.
Look
rope bridges
Iya's best-known tourist attractions are the rope bridges (かずら橋 kazurabashi), which used to be the only way to cross the river.
- . Opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. The most popular bridge is in West Iya, close to the main village. It's pretty safe and not particularly scary. ¥500.
- (奥祖谷二重かずら橋). They are located in the east of the valley can be found at the eastern end of the valley, before the final climb to reach Mi-no-Koshi. There are two: the husband's bridge (夫の橋 Otto-no-hashi), bigger and taller, and, to its left, the women's bridge (婦の橋, Tsuma-no-hashi). Both look like something out of a Tarzan movie and are not recommended if you're afraid of heights, although up to here there are steel cables hidden under the rope. On the other side of the bridges there is a campsite and a beautiful waterfall. There is also a small cart suspended by rope cables that can carry up to three people from one side to the other, near the Ponte da Mulher. He walks halfway down the ravine by himself, and has to pull the rope to go through the other half. Entry costs ¥500, but getting there can be a problem as buses usually don't come that far.
Other attractions
- (The easiest way to get here is to take a taxi from Oboke Station (about 45 minutes), but there are also buses from Awa-Ikeda; the nearest stop is the Oshima Tunnel), ☎ 81 0883-88-5290, email: [email protected]. A traditional thatched-roof Japanese house, restored at exorbitant cost and described in detail in Lost Japan. It is open to visitors, who can work and contribute to the organization's community revitalization efforts. Managed by friendly volunteers, you have to book at least a week in advance if you want to stay there overnight, and it is advisable to contact them for any kind of visits. There is no fixed visit price, but a donation to the organization is expected..
- (お剣神社), Mi-no-Koshi (near Mount Tsurugi cable car station). It's not exactly imposing, but it's traditional to stop here before starting the climb. The shrine has three parts, one in Mi-no-Koshi, one on the way to the top of the mountain, and one on the summit.
Knife
To walk it is a very popular activity in the valley, especially in the east, and there are several hiking trails of various sizes.
- (剣山 Tsurugi-san, also known as ken-zan). At 1955m, Mount Tsurugi is the most popular hiking spot in the valley and the 2nd highest mountain in Shikoku (after Mount Ishizuchi). Although the name means "Mount Sword", this is an inaccurate description of this softly contoured mound. You can take a cable car up most of the mountain (¥1000); from the cable car terminal, it's a half-hour walk to the summit. If you choose to avoid the cable car and walk the entire route (about 2 hours), you can stop at the O-Tsurugi Shrine (お剣神社) midway to drink a free sip of sacred sake or at the spring to cool off. From Mount Tsurugi, the tracks go in several directions, one of the most popular being the one that crosses Jirogyu and maruishi to reach the Oku-Iya rope bridges and the campsite.
- (三嶺). It is another more popular destination, but less crowded than Mount Tsurugi. According to the locals, it is the best trail for those who want to see the trees in autumn. The trail starts in the village of Nagoro and takes about two and a half hours to climb. The area is experiencing great excitement, as a resort, a cable car and even a monorail are being built.
Buy
There is not a single convenience store in Iya, but there are a few family grocery stores, both in West Iya and Mi-no-Koshi, and some gift shops. You can get food and other goods at Boke-Mart, the local mini-market on the edge of the train station. oboke.
With the
Iya West and Mi-no-Koshi have a few noodle and rice restaurants, all of which are a little expensive for Japan. friend (a local fish) grilled for 500 yen at one of the stalls dotted around the valley. Many places claim to sell noodles Iya soba, but it is easy to recognize that it does not differ from vegetables Sansai served in any other mountainous region in Japan. You can buy food and snacks at Fureai Center and Michi No Eki.
- , Nishi-Iya. A restaurant of under the easily recognizable by the ninja outside the building. The interior is decorated with rustic furniture, and has a traditional buried fireplace.
drink and go out
If you are looking for nightlife, you are in the wrong place!
sleep
accommodation
There are some minshukus (a kind of traditional Japanese Bed & Breakfast) in Iya West and Mi-no-Koshi. Prices are around ¥3500 per person, or more if you include dinner and/or breakfast.
- (秘境の湯), ☎ 81 0883-87-2300. A large and elegantly decorated hotel onsen near the Oara Iya West entrance tunnel. The views are nothing special. Entrance to the spa for non-clients costs ¥1000.
- (ホテル), ☎ 81 0883-75-2311. It is probably as isolated as possible in Japan, situated in a small ravine in the west of the valley. But the price to pay for peace of mind is high: from ¥14000 per person, to be exact.
- (ホテルかずら橋), 32 Zentoku, Nishiiyayamason, Miyoshi-gun (a 15-minute bus ride from Oboke Station and a 10-minute walk from the rope bridge), ☎ 81 0883-87-2171. One ryokan traditional with spa. Most rooms have mountain views, as well as the open-air baths above the hotel (accessible via a funicular). Breakfast and dinner consist of sophisticated cuisine kaiseki, using local ingredients. ¥15,000 per person, meal included.
- , Nishiiyayamamura, ☎090-9778-7133. Situated in the hills above the Yoshino River, it is a ryokan simple but excellent. The owner speaks English and is very attentive. ¥5000-¥7000 (depending on the number of meals) per person per night.
camping
There are no youth hostels in Iya — the closest ones are in oboke and Ikeda, outside the valley entrance — but it's a great place to to camp.
- (祖谷かずら橋キャンプ村, Iya kazurabashi kyanpu-mura), ☎ 81 090 1571 5258. A small campsite in West Iya, on the south side of the river and a 10-minute walk from the rope bridge. The bathrooms have hot water showers. For ¥500, get yourself a piece of grass to spend the night, with beautiful views of the valley. The stay at the park comes with a discount on the onsen Hikkyo no Yu, bringing the price down to ¥700; ask the camp guard for a discount coupon.
- (奥祖谷かずら橋キャンプ). A little basic, but in a splendid location, across the bridges from Oku-Iya, in the eastern part of the valley. Bathrooms are very basic and do not have showers. You can ask the owner of the minshuku across the road to use their bathroom for a small fee (about ¥300). Entrance to the campsite costs ¥300 per person, plus ¥500 to cross the bridge, which is the only way to get there (if you stay for more than a day, you only have to pay once).
In Mi-no-Koshi, there are also some camping spaces along the way to Mount Tsurugi (near the cable car terminal). You can borrow a piece of grass from one of the minshukus — and show your gratitude by eating a meal or two there. Although it is not an official campsite, you can discreetly set up a tent on the lake at the edge of La Fôret Tsurugi Baths. You can also use the baths for (¥500).
Leave
- (大歩危 and 小歩危). Boke and Koboke, a short distance from the valley, is also an area with beautiful scenery and thermal springs, known for rafting on the Yoshino River, which is the reason that attracts most visitors. The region's rapids are some of the biggest and most exciting in Japan.
- (鳴門). Known for the Whirlwinds of Naruto (鳴門の渦潮 Naruto on uzushio), which form in the Straits of Naruto and who, together with Ryōzenji (霊山寺) and Gokurakuji (極楽寺), starting points of the 88 Temple Pilgrimage, make this city famous.
- (徳島). capital of province, Tokushima it is mainly known for the Awa Odori Festival (阿波おどり), held in August and with a 400-year history. In addition to the festival, the Castle and some museums are also worth a visit.
| This article is a guide . It has a lot of information, including lists of hotels, restaurants, attractions and arrival and departure information. Plunge forward and help it grow ! |