Agdamwas a city in Southern Azerbaijan.
Understand
Today Agdam, which bustled with life more than 20 years ago, is completely deserted and in ruins. Azeris hail it their Hiroshima as it was largely wasted when they lost it to Armenian forces during the war which saw the Azeri loss of Nagorno-Karabakh. It was handed back to Azerbaijani control on 20 November 2020.
The town will not be repopulated since the Karabakh republic treats it not as part of the republic but more as a buffer zone that might be given back in a peace treaty some day.
Get in
A taxi should cost something between 8,000-12,000 dram. It is up to the driver if he takes the risk to take you there. It is also easy to hitchhike into Agdam from nearby Stepanakert. However, tall grasses throughout the city make it difficult to find your way, and hitchhiking out can be moderately challenging.
Officially, tourists are prohibited from entering Agdam without permission due to its proximity to Azerbaijan border. In the past, this rule was totally unenforced in practice, and travelers who encountered soldiers stationed in the region were not turned back. As of 2018, there was a police checkpoint in Agdam where tourists were intercepted and kindly turned back. The guards also asked for any photos taken around Agdam to be deleted. Speaking some Russian would be of great benefit in this situation.
Get around
Tall weeds makes visibility difficult during parts of the year. Try to locate the minarets of the Agdam Mosque and walk towards them. Climb to the top of a minaret in order to better orient yourself.
See
The Agdam Mosque was one of the few buildings not destroyed during the siege. The bottom floors are inhabited by cattle, but you can escape the stench by climbing a terrifying flight of stairs to the top of one of the minarets. From the top of the minaret you will have an opportunity to see most of the abandoned city. A must do.
An old mural on the side of a building a few hundred meters from the mosque is a reminder of the city's once vibrant past. Difficult to find, but don't miss it.
Do
Buy
Eat
Unless offered food/drinks by one of the friendly Armenian families that picnics here, there will be nowhere to get supplies. Water can be obtained from the guards at the police checkpoint.
Drink
Sleep
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