County Meath (Irish: Contae na Mí or an Mhí) lies in the gently rolling hills of Ireland's East Coast and Midlands. County Meath (from the Irish meaning, "the middle") is relatively flat country (by Irish standards) drained by the River Boyne, and is very agriculturally fertile.
Despite having no cities, Meath is one of the more densely populated areas of Ireland, with a total population of 195,044 (as of 2016).
Towns
- 1 the county town is modern, though crumbling turrets guard its approach roads.
- 2 Ashbourne is a modern commuter town. You might visit for Tayto Park funfair.
- 3 Slane in the Boyne valley has a neo-gothic castle.
- 4 Trim has a well-preserved Norman castle and several other historic sites.
- 5 Kells has the remains of the abbey that for 800 years housed the Book of Kells.
- 6 Oldcastle is near the tombs of Loughcrew Cairns, as fine as those at Brú na Bóinne but without the tourist hordes.
- 7 Drogheda is mostly in County Louth with just a few suburbs in Meath, but it's a good base for visiting the Boyne battlefield and Brú na Bóinne prehistoric site.
Other destinations
- 1 Brú Na Bóinne Archaeological Park is a remarkable complex of Neolithic chamber tombs, standing stones and henges. It's most easily reached from Drogheda.
- 2 Hill of Tara
is the focus of another complex: the oldest parts are Neolithic but its heyday was in the Iron Age and early Christian era. It's best visited from Trim: Navan is closer but lacks visitor facilities.
Understand
Given the gentile and fertile terrain, Meath has been an important region in Ireland since prehistory. The archaeological complex of Brú na Bóinne is 5,000 years old and includes the burial sites of Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth, in the northeast of the county. It is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
As a county Meath was formed by the Tudor (English) administration in 1543 from the eastern part of the former kingdom of Meath. Historically the kingdom included all of the current county as well as all of Westmeath and parts of Cavan, Longford, Louth, Offaly, Dublin and Kildare. The High King of Ireland sat at Tara in Meath.
Historically, Meath was extensively forested, but experienced a near total deforestation between the 16th and 18th centuries. Now the landscape is predominately agricultural.
Meath is also on the northern approaches to Dublin, making it a frequent site of conflict. The English leader Oliver Cromwell marched though here in 1649, and the influential Battle of the Boyne was fought here in 1690 between rival claimants to the British and Irish crowns.
Get in
1 Dublin Airport is north of the city with direct buses into the county.Bus routes radiate from Dublin to Ashbourne, Navan and Kells, to Trim, and to Slane. As this is commuter land, they are more frequent on weekday mornings heading into the city, then late afternoon heading back out, but the service is 24 hours to Ashbourne and Kells. For Oldcastle change buses at Kells.
A cross-county bus plies between Drogheda, Slane, Navan and Trim.
The top tourist sights are poorly served by public transport but have day-excursions from Dublin. So if you don't have a car (and in the city you actively don't want one) then consider joining a trip, which will probably visit the Boyne battlefield, Brú na Bóinne, Hill of Tara and Trim Castle. Bus Éireann is one reliable operator.
By road from Dublin follow M3.
The county lacks a railway service, though Drogheda has trains from Belfast, Newry and Dundalk heading for Dublin Connolly. Reinstating trains to Navan is long-promised but long-stalled.
Get around
You need wheels for anywhere that's not on the transport corridors described above. The distances are not great so a bike would do, but the roads are busy and ratty this close to the city.
Although the Drogheda-Slane-Navan-Trim bus passes just north of the Boyne valley sights, there's no public entry from north of the river. You need to be on the south bank, and by bus that will mean travelling into Drogheda then out again on the bus for Donore.
See
- Brú Na Bóinne or Newgrange Archaeological Park is a must-see, but the tomb interiors can fit very few visitors.
- Hill of Tara was where the high kings of Meath were inaugurated.
- Castles: the best by far is at Trim.
- Religious ruins at Trim, Bective and Slane.
- Ancient mounds 2500 years old at Telltown, and megalithic tombs at Loughcrew near Oldcastle.
- High Crosses in Kells, but the famous book is now in Dublin.
- The Battle of the Boyne, fought on 1 July 1690, spelled the end of James II's campaign to keep his throne. Henceforth Britain and Ireland were ruled by the Protestant Hanoverian dynasty of King William III. The visitor centre is on the road to Slane, though it's more easily reached from Drogheda.
Do
- Go to Fairyhouse Races near Ashbourne.
- Tayto Park near Ashbourne is a theme park and zoo.
- Gaelic games: Meath GAA play football and hurling at Páirc Tailteann in Navan. There are some 60 club teams across the county.
Eat
The Forge Restaurant near Ballinlough is a top class rural restaurant with quality meals. Chef Pauric White has won regional awards. Excellent food and friendly staff in a convivial atmosphere. To get to the Forge take N3 from Kells to Whitegate and take first left after Dervor roundabout.
Drink
Popular bars in the town are Beggy's, The Central and Ryans. The Palace Nightclub, Navan, is the current hotspot of the county.Other nightclubs in the county include Solar, Xangos, Glow and Live. Popular nearby clubs include Vanity in Carrickmacross and Imperial in Cavan.
Sleep
- Trim has the best range, and plenty of other amenities.
- Ashbourne and Navan have boxy modern business hotels.
- This isn't an area for camping, and the caravan sites are clustered along the coast.
Go next
- Drogheda is a historic city, and north in County Louth are ancient sites such as Monasterboice.
- County Cavan northwest is the drumlin belt, with quiet lakes studded with islets.
- County Dublin has interesting outlying places such as Howth and Malahide, as well as the must-see city.