Torres del Paine National Park - Torres del Paine National Park

Torres del Paine is a national park in Chilean Patagonia. It is in the southern tiers of the Andes and features mountains, lakes, and glaciers. The rocky Torres del Paine (meaning "Blue Towers" in a mixture of Spanish and local indigenous languages) give the park its name. Other attractions include the Cuernos del Paine mountains, Grey Glacier, Lago Grey, Lago Pehoé, Lago Nordenskjöld, and Lago Sarmiento.

Understand

Geology

The towers are eroded remains of an uplifted region, this created by granite plutons that uplifted overlaying sedimentary layers of which the lowest is a dark red shale. On the southern side the overlying materials have been completely eroded, leaving only several tall, rounded granitic towers - these are the actual towers of the park. On the northern side, some of the original materials remain and as these have different slope and color, form the tips of the "horns" seen in the image above. At times in the distant past the area was extensively glaciated; some glaciers remain on the eastern side of the uplift (to the left in the image) and form icebergs that flow some distance into the large and scenic Lake Pehoé.

History

According to the studies made to the Paleo-Indian artifacts found in the surroundings of the park, the are must have been inhabited some 12,000 years ago. The Tehuelche Indians, descendants of the Paleo-Indians gave the name of Paine to the Massif, which meant "blue" in their language.

Lady Florence Dixie, in her book published in 1880, gave one of the first descriptions of the area and referred to the three towers as Cleopatra's Needles. She and her party are sometimes credited as being the first "foreign tourists" to visit the area that is now called Torres del Paine National Park.

Several European scientists and explorers visited the area in the following decades, including Otto Nordenskiöld, Carl Skottsberg, and Alberto María de Agostini.

The park was established in 1959 as Parque Nacional de Turismo Lago Grey (Grey Lake National Tourism Park) and was given its present name in 1970.

In 1976, British mountaineer John Gardner and two Torres del Paine rangers, Pepe Alarcon, and Oscar Guineo pioneered the Circuit trail which circles the Paine massif.

In 1977, Guido Monzino donated 12,000 hectares (30,000 acres) to the Chilean Government when its definitive limits were established. The park was designated a World Biosphere Reserve by the UNESCO in 1978.

Fires

In 1985, a tourist started a fire that burned about 150 km² (58 sq mi) of the park. The blaze affected the areas east and south around Lake Pehoé.

In February 2005, an accidental fire started by a Czech backpacker, which lasted for about ten days, destroyed 155 km² (60 sq mi) of the park, including about 2 km² of native forest. The Czech government offered aid after the fire and donated US$ 1 million to reforestation efforts.

In late December 2011 through January 2012, a fire blamed on an Israeli backpacker burned about 176 km² (68 sq mi) of the reserve, destroying about 36 km² of native forest and affecting most of the areas around Lake Pehoé and the western areas around Lake Sarmiento, but moving away from the Cordillera del Paine, the park's centerpiece. The Israeli government sent reforestation experts to the zone, and has committed to donate trees to replant the affected areas.

Nevertheless, paleoenvironmental studies performed within the park indicates that fire have been a frequent phenomena at least during the last 12,800 years.

Landscape

Beside the astonishing Paine massif and its beautiful peaks, azure lakes, trails that meander though emerald forests, roaring rivers you are to cross on rickety bridges and radiant blue glaciers, not to mention the vast openness of the steppe to rugged mountain terrain topped by looming peaks.

Flora and fauna

Fauna include abundant guanacos, flamingos, pumas, ñandu, gray fox and andean condors.

Climate

According to the Köppen climate classification, the park lies in the “temperate climate of cold rain without a dry season." The meteorological conditions of the park are variable due to the complex orography. But you have to be prepared for harsh weather. Wind and strong sun are also issues, and the weather can go through a full four seasons in the course of a day, as locals say.

Temperatures

The zone is characterized by cool summers, with temperatures lower than 16 °C (61 °F) during the warmest month (January). Winter is relatively cold, with an average high temperature in July of 5 °C (41 °F), and an average low of −3 °C (27 °F).

Precipitation

The rainiest months are March and April, with a monthly average rainfall of 80 mm. This represents double the July–October (winter) rainfall, which are the drier months. A study of the exact chemical components of the precipitation in the park has been carried out.

Get in

By car

Warning: The nearest guaranteed gas/petrol stations are in -51.7283-72.50561 Puerto Natales.

There are four main entrances (porterías) to the park.

• Ruta Y-156:-50.97951-72.800431 Laguna Amarga – The main entrance to the park, located closest to the Las Torres complex.
• Ruta Y-150:-51.0041-72.5932 Lago Sarmiento – The least visited entrance located near the banks of Lago Sarmiento.
• Ruta Y-160:-50.8789-72.73533 Laguna Azul – The northernmost entrance to the park, mostly used by those renting horses for the trails located nearby.
• Ruta Y-290:-51.2181-72.96894 Serrano – The most direct route to Puerto Natales (approximately 90 kilometers, 1.5 hours, only partially asphalted) and the closest to administration building and visitor center.

It is also possible to enter the park via Ruta Y-180/Portería Laguna Verde. However, the road ends here and it is only possible to further enter into the park on foot or on horse. This entrance is more an option for those reentering the park on an already paid pass, as entrance fees are not collected at Laguna Verde.

By bus

Buses run daily from Puerto Natales (two hours), the main connection to civilization. All normal buses pass through Laguna Amarga, where entrance fees are collected and official Conaf maps are given out, before continuing to Pudeto which is the departure point for the catamaran to Paine Grande. At Pudeto those wishing to continue on to the administration building/visitors' center will change to a different bus, regardless of bus company.

The following bus companies in Puerto Natales make twice daily trips to the park in the high season, and all follow the same schedule. Note that all buses leave from the bus terminal in Puerto Natales (at the corner Avenida Santiago Bueras and España). Tickets can be purchased either at the bus terminal or at the addresses listed below. Tickets may include an open return, so don't lose the return ticket stub.

Bus schedule (October–March)

Puerto Natales	Laguna Amarga	Pudeto	Administration
7:30AM	9:45AM	10:45AM	11:45AM
2:30PM	4:30PM	5:30PM	6PM
Administration	Pudeto	Laguna Amarga	Puerto Natales
1PM	1:30PM	2:30PM	5PM
6PM	7PM	7:45PM	10PM

• Buses Pacheco, Eleuterio Ramírez 224, 56 61 41480.
• Buses Fernandez, Armando Sanhueza 745, 56 61 242313.
• Buses Gomez, Arturo Prat 234, 56 61 415700.
• Buses María José, Av. España 1455, 56 61 2 410951.
• JBA Patagonia, Arturo Prat 258, 56 61 410242.

In the shoulder seasons (April and September) there is only one departure and return daily (7:30AM departure from Puerto Natales and the 1PM return from the administration building), and the public buses do not run in the low season (May–August). It is avisable to confirm with the bus companies ahead of time.

From the park there are no direct buses for El Calafate but many tour operators offer them, in particular Chalten Travel. It is thus possible to go directly from El Calafate to the park and even return another day, although this is expensive (US$80 return, US$40 when returning another day).

Fees and permits

There was a significant raise of the fees in 2020. No reduced low seasons fees are available anymore and an extra longterm fee (>3 days) was established. Foreigners have to pay CLP$25,000 (CLP$35,000 >3days) and Chilean citizens and residents CLP$7,000 ((CLP$10,000 >3days). If you are in Chile as an exchange student or working for a period of time, just show your Cédula de Identidad (Identity card given by the Civil Registry and Identification Service (Servicio de Registro Civil e Identificación)) to pay the resident entry fee.

Get around

Trail status can be accessed via the informe diario (Spanish only) on the official park website. The main trails at lower elevations are generally open year-round. However, the backside of the Paine Massif Circuit (between Laguna Amarga and Refugio Grey, counter-clockwise) is closed in the wintertime (May–October) due to the absence of park rangers and the difficulty of the terrain. Parts of the W trek (the Francés Valley, the Base of the Towers lookout, for example) are regularly closed in the wintertime due to snow accumulation, even if it is not snowing in other sectors of the park. It is advisable to check the website for the most up to date information.

Generally, most visitors to the park access the main trails (that comprise the "W" trek and the Paine Massif Circuit) either by catamaran from Pudeto to Paine Grande or on foot/by shuttle to Hotel Las Torres from the Laguna Amarga entrance. The main trails can also be accessed from the administration/visitor center on foot to Paine Grande, passing Campamento Las Carretas on the way (colloquially called the "Q" trek).The catamaran Hielos Patagónicos operated by Hipsur runs between Pudeto and Refugio Paine Grande. One-way and tickets cost CLP$23,000 for Chilean citizens and US$ 35 for foreign citizens respectively, backpack and luggage transport costs an additional CLP$4,000 and must not exceed 50 kilograms. From Laguna Amarga a van runs to and from Hotel Las Torres four times a day in order to connect the Las Torres to the main bus route. The price is CLP$3,000 one way. The shuttle typically leaves at 2PM to get passengers back to their buses by 2:30 to return to Puerto Natales. Backpackers can wait at the Refugio Central and get a hot lunch or relax while waiting.

The Grey II runs between Hostería Lago Grey and Refugio Grey and must be booked in advance (CLP$70,000 single ticket for adults in high season).

The rest must be done by foot.

See

• -50.9426-72.94971 Torres del Paine. The lookout, Base de las Torres, is a 45-minute hike from Campamento Torres  
• -50.9966-73.05332 Valle Francés. Accessed from Campamento Italiano, three hour hike one way.  
• -50.94112-73.184153 John Gardner Pass. Between Camping Los Perros and Campamento Paso, the John Gardner Pass is the point between the Valle de Los Perros (Valley of the Dogs) and the backside of the Circuit, and Glacier Grey. 
• -50.95-73.254 Glacier Grey. The Glacier Grey can be seen via a short hike out onto a sandbar from Guardería Grey, from the John Gardner Pass, or from Refugio Grey on the "W".  
• -51.05-72.755 Lago Sarmiento. A large pretty lake with distinctive white banks, a result of calcium deposits.  

Do

Multiday trips

• W Trek. Bus to Visitors Centre/Administration, hike via Campamento Las Carretas to Refugio Paine Grande (17.5 km), sleep first night there, Hike to Refugio Grey or Campamento Las Guardas (beautiful view of Grey Glacier) and back to Refugio Paine Grande (15 km), sleep at Refugio Paine Grande, hike to Campamento Italiano (7.6 km), sleep there, hike to Campamento Britanico and the Mirador of Vallé Frances (beautiful view on the snow-covered summits) and back (15 km), sleep at Campamento Italiano, hike to Hosteria Las Torres (16.5 km), sleep there, hike to Campamento Torres and Mirador Torres (beautiful view of the three torres) and back (10 km). Minibus to the Laguna Amarga park gate. 
• Paine Massif "O" Circuit. Connects the two ends of the W via Camping Los Perros, Refugio Dickson, and Camping Serón, passing through the John Gardner Pass. 123 km in total, 6-10 days. 

Day trips

• Drop off at Administration, Mirador Condor, Salto Grande, Mirador Cuernos, Mirador del Nordenskjold. Catch the bus at Laguna Amarga.
• Drop off at Laguna Amarga, shuttle to Hosteria Las Torres, hike to Campamento Torres and Mirador Torres and back (10 km). Shuttle to Laguna Amarga.
• Drop off at Pudeto, by catamaran to Refugio Paine Grande, return by the same catamaran.
• Sightseeing tour by boat on Lago Grey to the Grey glacier.

Guided tours

Although it is possible to follow the well-marked trails through the park without assistance, the experience is greatly enhanced by joining a guided tour. The guide will point out and name flora and fauna along the way, as well as making side detours to points of interest that the casual traveler might miss. The biggest advantage is that all equipment, such as tents, sleeping bags, mattresses, crampons for walking on ice and luggage transfers, are all provided by the tour companies.

Most companies run longer tours into the park and these are generally between five to seven days duration. Many companies run comprehensive tours with local knowledgeable guides, many of them following the famous "W" trek, and including a cruise up the Serrano River or along one of the fjords.

Depending on the tour, accommodations are provided in tents (either in pay campsites with all facilities, including hot showers, or in the free Conaf campsites with pit latrines), in the park's refugios listed above, or in lodges or remote mountain inns.

Other activities offered on guided tours include fly-fishing, kayaking through the fjords and channels, or ice hiking.

Buy

In the park, Hotel Las Torres has a gift shop. There is another one at Pehoé Camping, 30 minutes walk south of the Pudeto bay on the shores of Pehoé lake.

Eat

Refugio Paine Grande has the only combination bar/restaurant on the W trek. Provisions can be expensively restocked at Refugio Grey, Refugio Chileno, and Refugio Los Cuernos. There is a small kiosk at Hotel Las Torres at the beginning of the trek to Las Torres. At Pudeto a small cafeteria is available and convenient to those awaiting the catamaran departure.

Drink

The only bar on the W trek is located at Refugio Paine Grande. Moreover Hotel Las Torres Patagonia has a nice bar; the menu includes salads and finger food.

Sleep

In October 2016, the park implemented a rule requiring reservations for lodging at both private and public CONAF campsites and refugios. This is not at all necessary to enter the park, but rangers will check your reservations when passing ranger stations between campsite and get you turned around if you have no reservation. However, if you arrive after 21:00 to a CONAF campsite that's far from other campsites, the rangers will generally let you stay.

You can make the free reservations for the CONAF campsites at the Torres Del Paine Official Park Website.

Lodges

There are several basic lodges in the park called refugios. Make reservations well in advance if you plan on staying in these. The cost for a dorm bed is about CLP$85,000.

• -50.96561-72.865981 Refugio Torres. Two buildings, Torre Norte and Torre Central, 100 m from each other. Both have 10 mixed dorms sleeping 6 people each and shared bathrooms (total capacity of 120 guests). Bed linen are included, though in Norte you can opt to use your own sleeping bag. Torre Central has a lounge, restaurant, bar and shop as well as central heating and the check in takes place there, whereas Norte is a simpler wood-heated building. In the area there's a campsite as well (Camping Central) (updated Jan 2020)
• -50.9575-72.91052 Refugio El Chileno. Room for 32 guests in 4 mixed dorms sleeping 8 people each, and you will sleep in sleeping bags, your own or rented. Shared bathrooms. El Chileno has a restaurant and a shop. There's an adjacent camping site, Camping El Chileno. (updated Jan 2020)
• -51.0239-72.98543 Refugio Los Cuernos. A refugio with dorm accommodation, a campsite and cabins. There are 4 mixed dorms sleeping 8 people each (still advertising room for 36 guests), shared bathrooms, a restaurant and shop. The campsite has place for 50 tents, and you can rent equipment if needed. Then there are 8 double cabins with made-up twin beds and shared bathrooms for cabin guests. (updated Jan 2020)

• -51.072-73.09484 Refugio Paine Grande. The refugio has a capacity of 100 guests in mixed dorms of 2, 4 and 6 beds with the possibility of opting for a made up bed or sleeping in a sleeping bag. Shared bathrooms. You can also find a restaurant, bar and a shop there. For campers there's a campsite with place for 260 guests with a cooking area. (updated Jan 2020)

• -51.0082-73.1765 Refugio Grey. Near the Grey Glacier, this refugio has room for 60 guests in dorms for 4 or 6 persons. Also here you can choose between having bed linen (more expensive) or sleeping in a sleping bag. Bedrooms aren't heated, common areas are. Bathrooms are shared. There's a restaurant with a bar and a food shop. There's a campsite too. (updated Jan 2020)

• -50.8795-73.07476 Refugio Vértice Dickson. A smaller refugio sleeping 27 guests, where there again is the option of sleeping in a sleeping bag or bed linen, as well as a campsite. There's a restaurant with a fixed menu and snacks, as well as a food shop. (updated Jan 2020)

Reservation agencies

• FantásticoSur Lodges, ☏ 56 61 614184, ✉[email protected]. Reservations for Refugio Torres, El Chileno and Los Cuernos 
• Vertice Patagonia, ☏ 56 61 412742, ✉[email protected]. For Paine Grande Lodge, Refugio Grey, and Refugio Dickson. 

FantasticoSur and Vertice will ask for credit card information and charge it two weeks before arrival. There appears to be no cancellation penalty before that. Usually the two companies do not answer email and the best is to arrange bookings with the at their office in Puerto Natales.

Camping

There are several campsites. Camping near a refugio costs CLP$6,000 or CLP$10,000 the other campsites run by CONAF (called campamentos) are free but reservation in advance is mandatory. All campsites have at least basic toilet facilities (bring your own toilet paper) and refugios have hot showers. Travelers are theoretically restricted to camping for only one night at each CONAF campsite, but this seems to be relatively unenforced.

Backcountry

Hiking and camping outside of designated areas is forbidden, and will result in immediate expulsion from the park if caught.

Hotels

• -50.97316-72.874987 Hotel Las Torres (end of Las Torres a Chileno), ☏ 56-61-2617450, ✉[email protected]. Hotel with restaurant, bar and spa. rates including breakfast from: USD 360 (sgl), USD 415 (dbl) in low season, from USD 460 (sgl), USD 515 (dbl) in high season. (updated Jan 2020)

Stay safe

Foxes have been known to steal food and belongings, and to bite people, particularly small children. Even among the normally temperamental weather typical in Patagonia, the weather in the John Gardner Pass can be particularly tricky.

Go next

• Bernardo O'Higgins National Park - just west and northwest of Torres del Paine, it's remote, big (about the size of Taiwan), and accessible by boat or helicopter. You will have to backtrack through Puerto Natales.
• Los Glaciares National Park - just north, on the Argentinian side and not far away as the crow flies. In practice this entails a drive of several hundred kms; you have to backtrack through Puerto Natales, cross the border, drive or ride a bus along Ruta 40 to El Calafate (or fly from Puerto Natales) and enter from there.
• Punta Arenas - Chile's and one of the world's southernmost proper cities and an access point to far southern Patagonia and Antarctica.