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Introduction
Turkmenistan (in Turkmen: Türkmenistan; in Russian: Туркменистан Turkmenistan) is a country located in Central Asia, which borders to the northwest with Kazakhstan, north and northeast with Uzbekistan, southwest with Iran, to the southeast with Afghanistan and to the west with the Caspian Sea. Much of the territory is flat, covered by the karakum desert. Until 1990 it was part of the Soviet Union to later establish an independent authoritarian government.
Understand
The traditional life of the Turkmen is that of nomadic herdsmen, although some have settled in cities for centuries. The country is known for its fine carpets (even a figure on its flag) and horses. It is a fairly poor country that has been isolated from the world. Apart from that, billions of millions have been spent on modernization in Ashgabat, Turkmenbashi and many other cities in post-Soviet times. And also, the country has extensive developing oil and gas reserves, with pipelines to China, Iran and soon to Azerbaijan. Turkmenistan is also the second richest country in Central Asia.
North Korea may get all the press, but even the personality cult of the Kim family fades compared to the surreal totalitarian state established by the all-powerful former president for life of Turkmenistan, Saparmurat Niyazov . He adopted the title of Turkmenbashi ("Father of all Turkmen"), he named the city of Turkmenbashi (formerly Krasnovodsk) in his honor, and built a 15-meter-high golden statue that rotates to gaze at the sun in the capital Ashgabat. The month of January was renamed Turkmenbashi in his honor, while the month of April and the word "bread" became Gurbansoltan Axis., the name of Niyazov's mother. Decrees emanating from Niyazov's palace banned, among other things, lip syncing, long hair, video games and gilt-toothed caps. Regardless, Serdar Saparmurat Turkmenbashi the Great (his official title) pretended to remain modest, once commented that "I personally am against seeing my paintings and statues on the streets, but it is what people want." The Niyazov government also spent billions on renovating the country, closed libraries and hospitals, and even wrote the Ruhnama, a spiritual book to improve the Turkmen people.
Since Niyazov's abrupt but regrettable death in December 2006, his successor, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov, has slowly taken off the worst excesses of the Turkmenbashi. The Ruhnama has lost its popularity, and Berdimuhamedov has continued in the process by restoring pensions and old names, while building on his own slightly more moderate cult of personality.
One important thing for visitors who smoke cigarettes or cigars: Smoking "in a public place" is prohibited. Generally, this means "outside." Smoking in any of the bazaars is definitely a no-no, as there were two major bazaar fires in 2006-2007. While it bothers non-smokers, those who enjoy tobacco products can enjoy them in most restaurants, cafes, and nightclubs. A good rule of thumb: If you don't see anyone else smoking, you shouldn't. The government has also banned the sale of all tobacco in the country.
People
The people of Turkmenistan are predominantly Turkmen , also Turkmen spelling, both in ethnicity and language. Turkmenistan was traditionally home to significant Russian and German populations, but they largely emigrated to their home countries after the dissolution of the Soviet Union. According to the 1995 census, 77% of the population is Turkmen, 9% Uzbek and 7% Russian.
According to Ruhnama , Turkmens originated in Oguz Han and all Oguz people are descended from Oguz Han's 24 grandchildren. The original homeland of the Oguz tribes was the Ural-Altay region of Central Asia. The Orhun inscriptions (6th century) mention the "tribal union of the six Oghuz", referring to the unification of the six Turkish tribes. This was the first written reference to Oghuz, dated to the period of the Göktürk Empire. The Dede Korkut's Book , the historical epic of the Oghuz Turks, was written in the 9th and 10th centuries. They migrated westward into the area of the Aral Sea and the Syr Darya basin in the 10th century. A clan of the Oghuz, the Seljuksseized Islam, entered Persia in the 11th century, and founded the Great Seljuk Empire. The name Oghuz is derived from the word 'ok', which means 'arrow' or 'tribe' and on the flag of the Seljuk Empire an archer was shown firing an arrow. The term Oghuz was gradually replaced by the Turks themselves by Turkmen or Turcoman . This process was completed in the 13th century.
The main Turkmen tribes are the Tekke (around the oases of Ahal, Tejen and Merv), the Ersari (along the Amu Darya), the Yomud (in the Balkan region and the Khorzem Oasis) and the Goklen in the southwest.
Ground
Turkmenistan is largely covered by desert, with intensive agriculture located in irrigated oases. Half of its irrigated land is planted with cotton, making it the 10th largest producer in the world.
About 80% of the surface of Turkmenistan is covered by the largest desert in Central Asia, the Karakum (black sand) , which forms together with the Kyzylkum (red sand) in Uzbekistan the fourth largest desert in the world. The Karakum covers about 350,000 km².
The kopet dagi mountains (many mountains) in southern Turkmenistan form the border with Iran. In the kugitang mountains in the northeast of Turkmenistan is the highest mountain in the country, Airbaba (3,117 m). The lowest point in the country is the Akdzhak depression , 80 m below sea level.
The country measures about 1,100 km from west to east and about 650 km from north to south.
Holidays
- 1 of January New Year
- January 12: Remembrance Day (Battle of Geok Depe)
- February 19: National Flag Day (Saparmurat Niyazov's birthday)
- March 8: Women's Day
- March 21-22: Nowruz (Navrouz: spring festival)
- First Sunday in April: Day of the drop of water is a grain of gold
- April 27: Ahalteke Horse Day
- May 9: Victory Day
- May 18: Day of revival and unity
- May 19: Magtymguly Poetry Festival
- Last Sunday of May: Turkmenhaly bairamy - Carpet Day
- Second Sunday in August: Melon Festival
- October 6: Remembrance Day (to remember the 1948 earthquake)
- October 27 and 28: Independence Day
- First Saturday in November: Health Day
- November 17: Student Youth Day
- Last Sunday in November: Harvest Festival
- November 30: Bread Day
- First Sunday in December: Good Neighbor Day
- December 12: Neutrality Day
Weather
Turkmenistan has a continental climate with long, hot summers. Winters are not too cold. The average temperature is 26-34 ° C in summer and -4 ° C to 4 ° C in winter.
However, in the northern regions, the temperature in the winter months can drop to -20 ° C.
Read
- The lost heart of Asia by Colin Thubron, Penguin, 1994
- Daily life in the golden age of Turkmenbashy by Sam Tranum
- Joe and Azat by Jesse Lonergan
Regions
While the provinces are a useful way of dividing greater Turkmenistan into regional travel areas, there is one geographic region present in all of them, dominating the country - the brutal desert that is Karakum.Ahal Province
| The central region of the country, home to the capital. |
Balkan province
| The western province of the Caspian basin. |
Dashoguz Province
| In northern Turkmenistan, home to the historic city of Konye-Urgench |
Lebap Province
| The largely empty eastern province along the Amu Darya River and the border with Uzbekistan |
Mary Province
| Southeastern Turkmenistan is a prime destination for travelers to see the ancient capital of the Silk Road, Merv. |
To get
Entry requirements
All nationalities need a visa to enter Turkmenistan. For independent travel, a short transit visa can be obtained, but a full visa can be difficult. Most border guards are young recruits and a small bribe can facilitate their entry at the border and roadblocks.
Kazakhstan residents of Atyrau Oblys and Mangystau Oblys have visa-free access to the Balkan region for up to 5 days.
Uzbekistani residents of Khorezm Vilayat and Bukhara Vilayat as well as residents of Amudarya, Khujayli, Shumanay, Qunghirat and Takhiatash districts of Karakalpakstan and residents of Dehkanabad, Guzar, Nishan and Mirishkar districts of Qashqadarya Vilarabyat and residents of Surkatdary districts of Sherabyat and Mukatdary districts have access visa free for up to 3 days within any one month period. During Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha, access is allowed twice a month, but no more than 7 days.
Organizing a tour will make things much easier as the company can help you get the Invitation Letter and Visa. You may need to be met by a guide regardless of how you enter Turkmenistan. This can be particularly important, especially if your round trip is delayed, as it is possible when entering through the Caspian Sea by boat.
When you enter Turkmenistan, your bags will usually be checked with an X-ray machine. You will need to fill out a green entry travel pass, an immigration card, and a customs declaration. List all your valuables that you bring with you on your customs declaration, make sure it is stamped, and keep a copy. You will have to show it again when you leave the country.
Vaccines
The World Health Organization recommends vaccines against diphtheria, hepatitis A and B, measles, mumps, polio, rubella, tetanus, typhoid fever, and chicken pox (chickenpox). In addition, vaccines against meningitis, rabies, and tuberculosis are recommended for long-term travelers.
Visa
It is strongly recommended that you apply for a Turkmenistan visa before traveling to Turkmenistan. Travelers applying for a visa at Ashgabat airport are reported to have been detained in the airport transit area for several days due to lack of documents.
Record
All foreigners entering Turkmenistan must pay a rate of inscription of 12 US dollars (2012) and will receive a green entry and exit card. Be especially careful with exit card , since it must be presented when leaving the country.
Foreigners staying more than 3 days in Turkmenistan must check in at IVOR in Ashgabat, Asady köcesi, telephone 391337 or at IVOR branches in other cities. You are responsible for registration, even when you are staying at a hotel. The hotel will only give you a confirmation of the accommodation. This confirmation and the receipt of the registration fee paid upon entering the country must be presented to IVOR. Two photos are required. The record will be stamped on your passport. You have to notify the IVOR so that they allow you to leave the country. This notice will also be stamped in the passport. The border controls will verify if you have a registration and notice to be stamped in your passport.
Travel permits
Are required travel permits for many border regions. You do not need a travel permit for Ashgabat, Merv, Turkmenabat and Balkanabat. Transit visas allow you to travel along major highways on your way to the next country on your itinerary. However, it is absolutely necessary to have a travel permit for the following regions:
- in Western Turkmenistan : for Bekdash, Turkmenbashi, Haza, Dekistan, Yangykala, Gyzletrek, Nokhur and surroundings,
- in the northern Turkmenistan : for the entire Dashogus region, including Konye Urgench, Dargan-Ata and Gazachak,
- in East Turkmenistan : for Farab, Atamurat (Kerki) and surroundings, Kugitang Nature Reserve, Tagtabazar and Serkhetabat.
By plane
Turkmenistan Airlines has direct flights to Ashgabat from Abu Dhabi, Almaty, Amritsar, Bangkok, Beijing, Birmingham, Delhi, Dubai, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Kiev, London, Minsk, Moscow and Saint Petersburg. Look for the portrait of Sapamurat 'Turkmenbashi' Niyazov on the front of the cabin. Schedules are often less than convenient and there is no website for airlines with listed flights. In general, it is best to visit the website of the airport you are departing from to find the schedule.
Turkish airlines fly to Ashgabat from Istanbul. Lufthansa flies from Frankfurt to Ashgabat. See the Ashgabat page for more detailed information. Flydubai offers service from Dubai to Ashgabat.
By train
Virtually impossible. There are no official international trains and the only train (Moscow-Dushanbe) that transits the country is practically inaccessible unless you are a Tajik citizen. Turkmenistan does not issue "from-then-again-to-Uzbekistan" transit visas and a standard non-transit visa would be required (Tajiks do not need any documents to transit Turkmenistan on this train). This train has no official stops on the territory of Turkmenistan, but it physically runs through Amudarya, where (if accidentally stopped) one could change to a train from Turkmenistan to Ashgabat.
By car
If you want to enter Turkmenistan with your own car, you need liability insurance. The green international insurance card is not valid in Turkmenistan. Also, you have to pay an additional tax (around US $ 150) for government subsidized fuel prices, depending on the distance of your trip in Turkmenistan. This tax must be paid at the border in US dollars. Be prepared for long wait times at border controls. By vehicle, you can enter through Kazakhstan, Iran, Uzbekistan, and Afghanistan.
The road from Kazakhstan to Turkmenistan is in terrible condition. If you don't have a van, the trip from Zhanaozen to the border can take up to 3 hours. Traffic is not allowed to cross these borders until further notice; the FCO advises those who drive to use routes in Uzbekistan. The journey from the border to Garabogaz can take another 3 hours. Make sure you bring enough supplies as the border post is really isolated. The paperwork can take a long time, but everything is very simple and the people are very friendly and helpful. Very few tourists cross this border.
By bus
Horsemen at the Independence Day Parade in Ashgabat Visa visitors can enter Turkmenistan from all neighboring countries. Checks at the border usually take an hour or two and maybe even longer. The border points are open every day from 09:00 to 18:00.
From iran
Since there is no public transport crossing the Turkmenistan border, to get to Ashgabat in Turkmenistan from Mashhad (Iran), the following option is the most convenient:
- Take a bus to Quchan: every 2 hours starting at 06:30. Cost: 8000 riyals. Duration: 2 h 30 min.
- From Quchan, take a private taxi to Bajgiran (border town). Cost: 60,000 riyals for 2, or less if you can. Duration: approximately 1 hour.
- In Bajgiran, head to the border (opening time: 07: 30-15: 30 Iran time). Crossing the border can take up to 2 hours. The Turkmen Police will ask for an entrance tax of USD10 (per person) USD2 bank fees (per group), to be paid in US dollars only.
- On the Turkmen side, take a taxi to Ashgabat, which can cost up to USD15 per person. Duration: about 1 hr.
From Uzbekistan
Each crossing may require a 15 minute walk through No Man's Land, fragmented taxis are sometimes available. There are three crossings from Uzbekistan to Turkmenistan:
- Farab from Bukhara: Take a taxi from Bukhara to the border (USD8) or a shared taxi to Uzbek Olot (Qarakul) and then a taxi to the border. From the border it is about 45 km to Turkmenabat. A taxi should cost around USD5 and a seat in a shared taxi less than USD1.
- Dashgous From Khiva or Ugench: Take a taxi from Khiva or Urgench to the border for about USD10 and another on the Turkmenistan side from the border to Dashgous for about USD1.
- Khojeli From Nukus in Karalpakstan: Take a taxi for the 30 minute drive from Nukus to the border for about USD10 or public transport from Khojeli for about USD1 and a taxi for the 10 minute drive to Konye Urgench for about USD1.
From Kazakhstan
There is a two-hour drive from Zhanaozen to the Turkmenistan border and another 40-minute drive from the border on a dirt road to the town of Karabogas (formerly Bekdash). The last 50 km on each side of the border is a very bad dirt road. (Approximately USD100 by private car or KZT10,000 per shared person). From Karabogas there is a good road to Turkmenbashi with beautiful views of the Caspian Sea. About 60 km south of Karabogas, the highway crosses a bridge over the canal that connects the Caspian Sea with the inland gulf. The border is closed to traffic until further notice.
Boat
Several popular travel guides talk about traveling by "ferry" across the Caspian Sea from Baku, Azerbaijan, to the port of Turkmenbashy in western Turkmenistan. Some people have had problems trying to travel to Turkmenistan by boat. Travelers should be aware that these "ferries" are in fact cargo ships, assuming some passengers incidental to their main function. Generally, passengers are not provided with food or water on these ships, and sleeping and toilet facilities are likely to be rudimentary. Travelers should be aware that ships arriving in Turkmenbashy port often wait days at sea for departing ships to leave the dock to allow arriving ships to disembark. Some people have spent more than a week on the high seas while their ship awaited permission to enter the port, and they have run out of food and water, or their Turkmen visas expired before they could be used. For this and other reasons, travelers, especially those planning to enter Turkmenistan by boat, are discouraged from using transit visas to enter Turkmenistan.
Travel
By plane
Internal flights are possible on Turkmenistan Airlines which flies daily between Ashgabat, Mary, Turkmenbashi, Dashoguz and a couple of other destinations. The flights are subsidized and, due to the cost of fuel, extremely cheap. Prices are around USD5 for a flight from Ashgabat to Mary or Dashoguz. Turkmenistan Airlines operates a fleet of Boeing 717s, purchased in 2001. You may not be able to freely photograph in and around the airport, although this is not unheard of elsewhere.
Boat
The Amu Darya is a major inland waterway of Turkmenistan.
By car
At least in Ashgabat, as in much of the former Soviet Union, "taxis" are mostly unofficial, and can be called by waving at a car along the road. Haggle and agree on the destination and price in advance - knowledge of Russian will definitely come in handy. Ashgabat and Turkmenbashi roads are in perfect condition. The Turkmenbashi-Ashgabat road is being upgraded to a two-lane highway.
The usual reasonable precautions apply here. If your instincts suggest that something might not be quite right, then it is best to follow your instincts.
There are obstacles all over the country. They will stop you and ask for your passport and car documents. Although it is inconvenient, this process will not take long.
Drive on the right. Minimum age: 17 years. International permit is required. Speed limit: 60 km / h in urban areas, 90 to 120 km / h on highways. The police can also detain you for no reason. Be courteous and don't pay them a bribe. Radar guns can be used to measure your speed. If you are caught speeding, you need to negotiate a price - a few dollars should be fine in most cases.
By train
Turkmenistan has at least one daily train between the main cities of the country. Hours here. The trips are slow but highly subsidized (a few dollars in first class to sleep anywhere in the country). Tickets cannot be purchased online and trains fill up fast, so be sure to get one in advance. The train classes are typical of the former Soviet Union, but most Soviet trains have been replaced by modern air-conditioned Chinese cars.
Rail service in Turkmenistan is provided by Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmen Railways) , Ashgabat, tel 3632 255545, fax 3632 473858. On the main trains they offer soft and hard accommodation with sleeping and dining carriages.
To buy
Money
| Turkmen Manat Exchange Rates As of March 2020:
Exchange rates fluctuate. Current rates for these and other currencies are available on XE.com |
The official currency in Turkmenistan is the new manat , sometimes denoted by the symbol " m "(ISO code: TMT ). It is divided into 100 tenge.
The US dollar is widely accepted, although it should only be accepted in international hotels or at the airport according to regulations. You will be asked to pay with dollars in hotels, certain tourist places and for your tour operator. Be sure to bring plenty of $ 1 bills for small purchases.
You cannot exchange manat outside Turkmenistan, so only change what you intend to use as it is impossible to exchange manat for dollar within Turkmenistan.
There is a black market for foreign exchange in Turkmenistan. The black market rate in the Russian Bazaar was 18 manat to US $ 1 in November 2019. However, black market exchangers know many tricks to scam travelers.
In 2009, a new manat was introduced at the rate of 5,000 old manats for 1 new manat.
Credit cards are only accepted in large international hotels and banks in the largest cities. Visa credit cards are the most useful. MasterCard is accepted at a bank in Ashgabat and at the ATM of Hotel Grand Turkmen and Ak Altyn Hotel in Ashgabat.
Costs
Turkmenistan is the most expensive country in Central Asia. Expect to pay US $ 30 for a basic double room. A more comfortable option is around $ 60. A street snack costs between US $ 1 and US $ 3. A meal in a good restaurant in Ashgabat costs around US $ 20. A "tourist tax" of US $ 2 per day was introduced in August 2017 and is expected to be added to the hotel bill.
Shopping
Bazaars are the heart of every city in Turkmenistan. Bazaars are usually open every day from 08:00 to 20:00, including Sundays. Big markets, like the Tolkuchka Bazaar on the outskirts of Ashgabat, open only two or three mornings a week. Bazaars outside Ashgabat will be closed during the day during the fall cotton harvest season. Government shops are closed on Sundays and at lunchtime, why not add to your own despotic library by adding the Ruhnama book written by Turkmenbashi, exploring his views on what it means to be Turkmen. Surprisingly, this is a pretty sensible read.
Rugs
Turkmen rugs They are famous and tend towards rich reds with geometric patterns. Some traditional patterns are unique to each tribe, and an expert can usually identify the tribe from the shape of the medallion-shaped pattern elements called guls . However, it is quite common to find a mix; When a weaver from one tribe marries a different tribe, she can use elements of both in her creations. A Turkmen Carpet Turkmen carpets are sometimes called "Bokhara" carpets because Bukhara, in neighboring Uzbekistan, was the center of their trade. . Turkmenistan is not the only source of Turkmen rugs; Uzbekistan and the northern areas of Iran and Afghanistan have some Turkmens. Other Afghan rugs are heavily influenced by Turkmen design and Turkmen designs are often copied in India and Pakistan; Traders may also call these rugs "Bokhara" but while some of them are fine rugs, they are generally not as high quality or as valuable as real Turkmen rugs.
Nowadays, wool is usually dyed with synthetic dyes and not with natural dyes; In the 19th and early 20th centuries, this was a problem because early synthetic dyes were of poor quality. Today it is much less of a problem, but some collectors still prefer natural dyes, mainly because they give better. arbrash , the subtle variation of color in a rug.
Needs a export permit for rugs bought in a bazaar or a private store. The Committee of Experts on the back of the Carpet Museum in Ashgabat (phone 398879 and 398887, opening hours LF 14: 30-17: 30, Sa 10: 00-12: 00) you must certify that the carpet is not more than 50 years old. old and can be exported. This costs 115 manats per square meter and can take a few days. In addition, carpets that exceed 1.5 square meters are subject to a straight of export 400 manats per square meter payable in USD at the official exchange rate at customs upon departure.
Some carpet factories are run by the state company Turkmenhaly . If you buy a carpet from a state-owned store, export taxes are normally included in the price, although customs will charge a commission of 0.2 percent of the carpet's price.
For an accessible (still in print and reasonably priced) guide to these rugs, look for books by California collector Dr. Murray Eiland. If you intend to spend a lot, and especially if you are interested in antique rugs, it may be worth taking a closer look. The classic book on Turkmen rugs is Tappiseries de l'Asie Centrale by AA Bogolyubov, who was a Tsarist Governor of Turkmenistan, published in Russian and French in Saint Petersburg in 1905. It was a limited edition and is now rare and extremely expensive (several thousand US dollars). If you are passing through London, the British Museum has a copy and will allow visitors to browse through it. A translation (the original French plus English), Central Asian rugs (ISBN 978-0903580052), was published in Great Britain in the 1960s; It is no longer in print, but can be found in libraries. In the used market, it is much easier to find and much less expensive than the original.
Eat and drink
To eat
Expect clearly average Russian cuisine in restaurants. As in Uzbekistan, tariffs can be found in the markets plov and more of the Central Asian type. If you can find it, try the sturgeon from the Caspian Sea, sometimes prepared 'tempura' style.
Meals usually start with a soup, such as chorba, a soup of meat and vegetables. Another national dish is plov , rice with lamb, onion, carrot, spices, raisins, peas or quinces. Manty They are steamed meatballs stuffed with lamb. Ku'urma it is lamb, cooked in its own fat. Ichlekli it's a meat and onion pie and gutap It is a pie filled with meat, potatoes, spinach and pumpkin.
To drink
Look for a variety of vodka labeled 'Turkmenbashi', which can be washed with the Russian brand 'Baltika' variety of beer. It may be more difficult to find local beers in establishments that cater to foreigners, but "Berk" is worth ordering; 'Zip', on the other hand, is horrible.
The tea is excellent and readily available.
It is better to err on the side of caution and limit yourself to bottled water. As in Russia, you may want to specify byehz gah-zah (literally "no gas" or "no gas") if you don't like sparkling water. Georgia's 'Borjomi' mineral water is available in stores in Ashgabat.
Local people prefer to drink gok chai - green tea, often with dried fruit or herbs, such as peppermint.
external links
Wikipedia has an article on Turkmenistan.w: Turkmenistan
Wikimedia Commons houses multimedia content about Turkmenistan. Commons
