Afghanistan - Afganistán

Introduction

Afghanistan (Afġānistān in Pashto, افغانستان in Dari) is a mountainous country located in the heart of Asia, surrounded by Pakistan to the east and south, Iran west and Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan Y Tajikistan to the north; a small border to the northwest separates Afghanistan and China by high peaks of difficult access.

Understand

The Afghan valleys have been the center of various empires in the last two millennia, being a border crossing between the great Persian, Indian, Chinese and Central Asian cultures. However, in the last 30 years the country entered a spiral of chaos that continues to this day. Afghanistan has risen to fame through successive wars, including a Soviet invasion, civil wars, the establishment of a fundamentalist emirate, the 2001 US invasion, and a current period of instability. Much of the country is in a state of war between the government and the Taliban insurgents, so visiting the area is not advised at the moment.

Unfortunately, the permanent conflict prevents more tourists from getting to know the jewels that Afghanistan keeps: the turquoise lakes of Band-e Amir, the minaret of Jam or the streets of Kabul. Other dazzling destinations, however, have disappeared as a result of the war. The most famous case is that of the giant statues of Bamiyan, dynamited by the Taliban government.

Regions

Map of Afghanistan and its tourist regions:      Kabul and surroundings     North Zone     West zone     South Zone
Kabul and surroundings
The Bamiyan valleyKabul· Bamiyan· Jalalabad

The heart of the country, the land of the Pashtuns, not only includes the capital of the country, where historical mosques are mixed with government and short-term commercial buildings. In Bamiyan You can see the ruins of the ancient giant Buddha statues, demolished by the Taliban, while in Jalalabad there are beautiful parks and mausoleums. On the outskirts of Kabul is the Qargha lake and beyond you can see the remote 5 lakes of Band-e Amir.

North Zone
Hazrat Ali MausoleumMazar-e Sharif· Konduz· Balkh

Along the rugged mountains of the Nuristan, there are the beautiful Afghan valleys where you can enjoy nature, be it climbing, skiing or just admiring the hills. In Mazar-e SharifHome to the Uzbek ethnic group, you can tour one of the holiest places in Islam, the mausoleum of the fourth caliph and brother-in-law of Muhammad, Hazrat Ali.

West zone
The Minaret of JamHerat· Jam· Maimana

The western part of Afghanistan has a strong influence from Turkmenistan and the Iranian Khorasan area. Herat It is a city of great historical interest with its architecture from the Timurid era. In Jam You can visit a magnificent minaret surrounded by mountains that is a World Heritage Site.

South Zone
Baba Wali Mausoleum in KandaharKandahar

The southern part of the country is by far the most conflictive in the country. The war clashes between the Western forces and the Taliban are constant and it is recommended not to visit the place, despite being the area that best preserves the traditions of the Pashtun people.

To get

An airplane takes off from Kabul airport.

To enter Afghanistan, a visa issued by one of the country's embassies abroad is mandatory; the only one located in the Spanish-speaking world is in Madrid. The tourist visa has a duration of 30 days, extendable for 30 more by requesting it to the Ministry of the Interior of the country. There are also transit visas for up to 72 hours for air passengers and 8 days for land. You can find more information in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

The most common form of entry is by air. The Kabul International Airport It has been rebuilt in recent years and has a new international terminal, served by various airlines. The national airline, Ariana Afghan Airlines, has a small fleet that performs daily flights to Dubai and frequent to Baku, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Islamabad, New Delhi Y Tehran. Keep in mind that Ariana is not exactly characterized by her punctuality and it is very likely that she will end up with a delayed or even canceled flight. Other local airlines that operate routes to Dubai are Kam Air (some with an intermediate stop in Herat), Pamir Airways and Safi Air. Kam also flies to Almaty, Istanbul Y Mashad, while Safi arrives in Frankfurt. International airlines arriving in Kabul include Pakistan International Airlines (from Islamabad Y Peshawar), Iran Aseman Airlines, Air India Y Turkish airlines, among other.

You can enter by land, at your own risk. The most important step is the Khyber between Peshawar Y Jalalabad, through which some buses pass; However, the passage is restricted only to Afghans and Pakistanis and, although there are reports of foreigners who have passed hidden in a vehicle or bribing the guards, it is not recommended at all since they will probably end up in jail if discovered. The passage between Quetta and Kandahar, communicates with Pakistan to the south. In both cases, the confrontation with Taliban troops is common and in many cases, some Westerners have been killed or kidnapped, so its use is not recommended. The other steps (from the Iranian Mashad to Herat, from Uzbekistan to Mazar-e Sharif and from Tajikistan to Kunduz) are not much safer.

Travel

A road crossing the central Afghan valleys.

There are flights connecting the main cities: Kabul, Kandahar, Herat and Mazar-e Sharif. Frequencies are variable and will depend on weather conditions. Most flights depart before 11 a.m. and night operations are prohibited.

By land, there is a growing public transport network between the main cities, using buses, minivans and taxis. The main route is the one connecting Kabul and Mazar-e Sharif, which has been rebuilt in recent years and can be covered in about 5 hours with relative safety. The route crosses the Salang Mountains and the Hindu Kush Mountain Range. You can also rent a car: a Toyota Corolla costs about US $ 100 for the trip from Kabul to Mazar-e Sharif.

There are taxi services, identifiable by their yellow color. Before leaving, you must agree on the price with the driver, which will be approximately Af 50 for every 2 to 3 kilometers. For some more complex roads, you can rent jeeps, and if you search well, you can find one that speaks English (you can get one at the Kabul airport itself). Bear in mind that there are not many gas stations in the field and that fuel is quite expensive.

Paved roads can be counted on your fingers and they are not even in good condition, necessarily. Many of them are covered in dust, which later turns to mud after the rain, so you need to be careful when driving.

Talk

Some Afghan children on bicycles.

In Afghanistan, the Pashtun and the persian dari they are the official languages ​​and the most widely spoken in the country. Many Afghans speak both languages. Dari is the most widely spoken language, being an Afghan dialect of the farsi, being popular in Kabul, Herat, Mazar-e Sharif and the central area of ​​the country. Pashto, although it is spoken by fewer people, is the main language of the dominant ethnic group in the multicultural country, being used throughout the border sector with Pakistan. Other languages ​​spoken in the north are of Turkic origin, such as Uzbek and the Turkmen.

English is being increasingly used in the country, especially at the government level. Some signs are already appearing in the Latin alphabet (along with native languages) and the teaching of this in schools has spread. However, still many people (especially from the interior of the country) do not master the language, so it is advisable to walk with an Afghan guide who serves as a translator.

To buy

An Afghan seller of silk rugs.

As in several countries of the middle East, the practice of bargaining. If you know how to do it well, you can get good results when you buy some of the traditional products that are for sale in the Afghan markets.

Probably the most famous thing you can buy here are the rugs. There are various types of Afghan rugs depending on the ethnic group and area where they are produced, highlighting the Baloch from the southern part of the country and the Turkmen from the north. In general, rugs use repeating geometric symbols as a pattern on a colored background, usually red. Although they are not as fine weave as you might find in Iran, many are of equal beauty and are notoriously cheaper than Iranian ones. Baloch rugs are smaller as they are easier to move by nomadic tribes; Their size, which does not exceed 2 meters, makes them very popular with tourists. The Turkmen, also called Bokhara, they are much larger and thicker, being perfect to install in a home. In the past, golden rugs were common, which were achieved by fading the red of traditional rugs, thus leaving blue or black tones on an orange or gold background; This has been discontinued to maintain tradition and because of the damage it causes to the fabric. Some rugs may have minor blemishes, but it comes naturally to the manufacturing process. A somewhat cheaper and lighter alternative are the kilim While they won't last a decade as a rug, some are beautifully decorated and make good ornamentation pieces.

In the markets you can find jackets sheep, with the wool on the inside and the animal's leather on the outside. These provide a great coat for the wearer and are usually decorated, but you must take into consideration that in some cases these decorations are made to hide flaws in the leather. In some countries, such as Australia or Chile, this type of clothing of animal origin is usually prohibited and can be destroyed when landing back in its country of origin.

It is also common to find weapons, from knives to a type of musket called jezail. Some have beautiful decorations on items like nacre, but they are usually copies since the originals are a couple of centuries old. Many guns may have some flaws so do not try to shoot with them or you may have an accident. These types of souvenirs are also difficult to take out of the country and enter another. Don't try to buy one if you don't know the procedures for bringing firearms into your country beforehand and discard it if you plan to tour other countries.

Security

US Marines conducting a military operation.

Afghanistan often appears on the list of the most unsafe places in the world and for good reason. Since the mid-1970s, Afghanistan has been in a succession of armed conflicts that have not stopped and are likely not to stop in the medium term. Travel only if it is strictly necessary; Despite its beauty, the country is in bad shape and you will have many difficulties that can totally ruin your experience.

Much of the country is submerged in battles, bombings and other clashes, although these are mainly concentrated in the south and east (along the border with Pakistan). The fundamentalists of Taliban, the main armed group, has declared one of its objectives the capture of foreigners, assassinating or kidnapping many of them in recent times. Avoid border crossings and enter any southern province to avoid any problems.

Although the northwestern part of the country and Kabul are much quieter, at any minute an attack can happen or the fighting can intensify. Stay tuned for the news before and during your trip. Also use caution when riding a route if you come across a military convoy; if you approach these, try to bypass them or take a photograph of them, they can be interpreted as hostile acts and will open fire without hesitation. More than 600 people each year are affected by antipersonnel mines (many of them have died), so follow well-defined routes, avoid areas with rocks painted red or white or move any suspicious artifact. If, despite everything, you insist on traveling, hire a guide

Other dangers you may encounter are poisonous insects or snakes. It is common to find scorpions or spiders that can damage it. Be careful with the food and beverages you eat, as the level of hygiene is extremely low. Malaria remains a common disease in some areas of the country, as is tuberculosis. To this are added other difficulties such as air pollution and the altitude of some areas, which can cause discomfort in some tourists. The health system is very poor, so it is recommended that you bring your own medicines and an extra pair of anti-inflammatory and anti-diarrheal drugs.

Respect

A woman wearing a chador in Bamiyan

Islam is the main unifying agent of multi-ethnic Afghanistan. More than 99% of the population is Muslim, of which between 80% and 85% are Sunni and the rest Shiite. It is an extremely conservative country and the Taliban, which is one of the most extreme fundamentalist groups, still wields a strong influence in the country. Follow local customs and don't get too involved if you want to avoid trouble, especially in such a troubled place.

  • There are many holy places for Islam, such as the Hazrat Ali Mausoleum. Respect traditions, avoid talking in these places, and wear appropriate clothing.
  • The sharia It is the main source of legislation, so homosexuality is prohibited and the punishments range from whipping to the death penalty, being one of the seven countries in the world with such a level of hostility towards sexual minorities. If you are gay or transgender, avoid traveling to Afghanistan. You also can't drink alcohol, so avoid entering or consuming it publicly.
  • Women have a minor role in society and are obliged to cover their bodies. It is recommended that tourists abide by these codes if they do not want to face problems with society or the police. In many places the use of burqa or chador, although in cities like Kabul and Herat they can use a hijab more easy.

See also

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