The route through the valley Valle Calchaquí in northwestArgentina leads from Santa María del Yocavil above Cafayate and Cachi until after La Poma.
The rock valley, which has all the nuances between a narrow gorge and a plateau, not only has scenic attractions to offer. There are also numerous old colonial towns and several archaeological sites, the most famous of which is the Quilmes ruins are.
background
Before the Spanish settlement, the Calchaquí Valley was the settlement center of the Diaguita ethnic group. They were able to defend the remote valley against invaders from Europe until the 17th century. Numerous fortress cities, the so-called ones, bear witness to this Pucarás. After the settlement, the Spaniards pushed agriculture, especially viticulture, which made the region the most famous growing area in northwestern Argentina. Numerous small towns emerged and the population density was among the highest in the greater region until the 19th century.
With the development and deforestation of the rainforest in the eastern areas of the provinces Salta, Jujuy and Tucuman the region began to drift into insignificance. Cafayate, which was the second largest city of Salta for a long time, is no longer even among the ten largest towns in the province. Also because of this development, the colonial old towns of the places were able to hold their own against the modernization that affected the rest of the region around 1900.
Today the valley, especially the region around Cafayate, has become a popular travel destination. Away from this "tourist capital" one often finds the original loneliness.
preparation
Special preparation is not necessary if you only want to drive the main part of the route (between Santa María and Cachi). However, if you dare to try the Abra del Acay, the highest passable road pass in America, at the north end of the valley, you have to get an all-terrain vehicle and inquire about the road conditions. Even those who want to drive through the valley quickly should find out beforehand whether any part of the route has been blocked by a landslide, especially after rain, otherwise long detours are necessary.
getting there
Depending on where you start the tour from, you usually have two cities as a starting point: San Miguel de Tucuman (for the southern part around Santa María) and Salta (for the middle part between Cafayate and Cachi). Both are connected to the flight network and offer good bus connections into the valley. A lesser-known, but at least as attractive alternative is to travel via Belén from the south, although the road is not (yet) completely tarred, but you can really get to know the entire valley, from the sources of the Santa María river close Los Nacimientos de Arriba, and also through some breathtaking canyons like the Quebrada de Belén and the Quebrada de Hualfín moves.
From the north, on the other hand, you can only travel over the pass in an all-terrain vehicle Abra del Acay possible. This is at an altitude of 4,900 m. In this case, the approach is via San Antonio de los Cobres, for example from San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) and SouthBolivia (Villazón) can be easily achieved.
Here we go
Santa María - Cafayate
The first part of the route leads directly through the most famous pre-Columbian ruined cities in Argentina. In the lovely Santa María, which is beautifully located in the middle of colorful mountains, you can tackle the tour on two alternative routes: via the Ruta Nacional 40 or a feeder to the Ruta Provincial 307 (described in section Detour Amaichá del Valle). The latter tour that is right over Amaichá del Valle leads is much better developed and paved throughout. The Ruta 40, on the other hand, is in mediocre condition, but it leads past a number of interesting ruins.
To be mentioned here the Pucará of Las Mojarras and Fuerte Quemado. Both sites are in their original condition and have not yet been restored. In Fuerte Quemado there is a small window on top of a hill that indicates the winter solstice, the traditional South American New Year.
The asphalt ends behind Fuerte Quemado, on the border between Tucumán and Catamarca. Only a few kilometers afterwards (25 km in total after Santa María) the Ruta 307 meets the Ruta 40 from Amaichá del Valle. Shortly afterwards follows the probably greatest attraction of the section: the Quilmes ruins, a spacious former fortified city of the Diaguitas. The core area has been restored, a small museum and a souvenir shop as well as a hotel are available (Attention: In March / April 2008 the facilities were closed due to a dispute between landowners and an Indian group, visits are still possible). Quilmes is 5 km west of Ruta 40, accessible via a passable dirt road.
We continue north via small, sleepy towns like Colalao del Vallethat are still untouched by tourism. At km. 61 will Cafayate reached. This little town with around 12,000 inhabitants is the tourist center of the valley and the winegrowing metropolis of the region. Tours to various wineries are offered. But the place is also interesting for hikers: in the side valleys you can find waterfalls and strange rock formations via adventurous paths, especially in the Quebrada de Cafayate, a river breakthrough east of this city on the road to Salta (about 15 km from Cafayate). Accommodation and gastronomy can be found in the town in abundance. There are also some old buildings from the colonial era that are well worth seeing.
Detour Amaichá del Valle
The small town is about 10 kilometers east of the main route, accessible either directly from Santa María (see above) or from Quilmes via the RP 307 Amaichá del Valle. Although the center looks simple and there are no architectural sights or special scenic attractions (apart from the rough gorge Quebrada del Remate) there, the place is worth visiting.
On the one hand, it is the largest Indian community in Argentina. Although the residents only speak Spanish today, the municipal laws and administration are on a traditional basis. For example, all land is owned by the municipality and can only be leased or rented. The second is the largest museum about the culture of the Calchaquí Valley, the Museo de la Pachamamathat is worth a detour alone. It shows both the turbulent history and the current situation of the valley between agriculture and ultra-modern and yet controversial copper mines. The third takes place every year at the end of February Pachamama festival (Fiesta Nacional de la Pachamama) takes place, one of the largest folklore festivals in northwest Argentina with traditional processions around the small plaza - and uncharacteristically free admission, this was determined by pressure from the residents.
Cafayate - Cachi
Behind Cafayate the valley begins to narrow. Only small towns can be found there that rarely have more than 1,000 inhabitants, but almost all of them have colonial churches and mansions.
About San Carlos
After the little one Animaná, where it is recommended to stock up on wine if you want because of the low prices, is about 25 km north of Cafayate San Carlos reached. This small town was founded in 1551 and is one of the oldest in Argentina, but has been renamed and relocated several times. The Jesuit tradition is still visible in some of the old buildings. San Carlos has a campsite, a few simple hotels and a popular swimming pool. It is the scene of the Pottery Festival in February Festival del Barro Calchaquí.
After San Carlos the river turns to the west. There are numerous attractive rock formations in this area. For drivers, it is important to inquire about the condition of the road in rainy summer, as there are only a few bridges and the river is mostly crossed by fords, which can cause delays in a thunderstorm. 77 km after Cafayate you will find the small, modern holiday resort behind a junction Angastaco.
About Molinos
The small town is 118 km behind Cafayate Molinos, whose main attraction next to the 17th century church is the Finca Isasmendi, is a large mansion from the same period. You can stay overnight in the finca (quite expensive) if a room is reserved.
Behind Molinos there are a few smaller villages, one of which Seclantás stands out. You can also visit the archaeological site La Paya (km. 156 behind Cafayate) visit. Both the Incas and tribes hostile to them lived in the area between 1000 and 1500.
Cachi
Cachi is considered one of the best preserved colonial cities in northern Argentina. Despite its rather small population of 2,000, it is an important center of pepper cultivation. Its large, rectangular plaza is surrounded by numerous colonial-style houses. Even if most of the buildings (including the church) date from the early 20th century, the baroque style was continued. Cachi has an archaeological museum with finds from the area and a "tour" through the history of the area. The area is ideal for mountain biking and the place offers decent tourist infrastructure.
Cachi - La Poma
After Cachi, the next attraction is the archaeological site of Payogastawhere an ancient Inca fortress was excavated, the largest of its kind in the region. Here the road to Salta turns to the east, which goes through the very charming gorge over the Cuesta del Obispo ("Bischofssteige") leads.
Further towards La Poma the path becomes more and more lonely. Pure nature reigns here, with a few curiosities. First (km. 43 behind Cachi) you will find an area called Campo Negro ("Black Field"), which is covered by black, round volcanic stones. At km. 51 an unmarked path leads west to Garganta del Diablo, an underground tunnel 50 m long that the river dug through a rock wall.
La Poma itself (km. 54) is a small village that has hardly any real attractions. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1930 and rebuilt 300 m from the place of origin. The ruins can be visited, but are not overly spectacular. For the adventurers who want to tackle the Acay-Pass, it is the last supply station, it also has a small hotel.
security
There are no particular security problems in the region. Theft can (rarely) occur in the tourist centers.
trips
Anyone who has an off-road vehicle can now take the big leap and climb America's highest road pass, the Abra del Acay (4,900 m high). The road is extremely narrow, very steep and often in poor condition. In winter and after summer thunderstorms it is impassable, which is why you definitely have to find out about the current state of affairs.
If you want to climb the Acay Pass more easily, you have to do so from the north, from San Antonio de los Cobres, to do. This is also the closest and only larger "town" (approx. 5,000 inhabitants) in the region, a very simple mining town on the plateau, whose largest employer is the customs post for travel to Chile is after the region's mines were largely abandoned.
