 | ||
| Athos | ||
| province | Autonomous Republic | |
|---|---|---|
| Residents | 1830 (2011) | |
other value for residents on Wikidata: 2262   | ||
| height | 2,033 m | |
| Tourist info web | http://www.mountathos.gr | |
| no tourist info on Wikidata: | ||
| location | ||
| ||
Athos lies in the Chalkidiki, Greece, the elongated peninsula includes the eastern "finger".
background
With the term "Athos" one has to distinguish three different but closely related meanings:
- First, it refers to the third, eastern finger (Greek: "foot") of the peninsula Chalkidiki in the Northeast Greece.
- Second, it means the autonomous monastic state lying on it, which is also known as Holy Mount Athos (Gr. Άγιον Όρος). This begins, partly separated from the northern part of the peninsula by clear border systems, not far from the town of Ouranoúpoli and takes up the whole south of it.
- After all, the rock massif in the very south of the peninsula is also called "Athos".
This peninsula with an area of 390 km² belongs to the UNESCO World Heritage Site and houses around 1,400 monks in 20 Eastern Orthodox monasteries. As an autonomous state under Greek sovereignty, access to the area is strictly controlled and only male residents and only male visitors are allowed to live there. The legislation is independent of the Greek one. Different guidelines apply in each monastery. The respective abbot is the decision maker. He is, so to speak, the monarch of the monastery. It is determined for life. In fact, there is even tension between different monasteries when the monks have different views.
Agio Oros (Holy Mountain) is a self-governing part of the Greek state, which is politically subordinate to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople with regard to its religious aspects. The mountain is dedicated to Our Lady, and by an imperial document (typicon) the Avaton was established, and no woman is allowed to enter the peninsula. Most of the residents are Orthodox monks who live in monasteries, sketae (small villages made up of cells), cells (individual houses) and hermitages. The clergy do not include employees and workers, but also the numerous visitors to Agio Oros who come to meditate, pray and study.
Of the twenty monasteries, one is Russian, one Bulgarian, one Serbian, and the rest Greek. There are also Romanian and Bulgarian sketae. Foreign monasteries and sketae are supported by their respective countries.
These monasteries hold sacred relics, icons, frescoes and mosaics of great value. Although many were lost in fires or stolen in pirate attacks, their libraries hold a variety of historical texts, rare documents and manuscripts - all of them historical heirlooms.
The first to settle here were Iconodules, members of the clergy who fled the persecution of the Iconoclasts. They came and lived as strangers and literally alone in caves. Later monasteries were built and organized in a monastic state. Agio Oros became a haven for those who wanted to save their souls through fasting and prayer, and its reputation grew to the point where even Byzantine emperors came here and lived as monks. he right of autonomy of Agio Oros was granted gradually, initially by the Byzantine emperors Nikiforos Fokas and Ioannis Tsimiskis. This autonomy has been maintained and even expanded to this day during the entire Ottoman rule. After the First World War, a number of international treaties recognized the special status of the mountain. Although nominally part of Greece, Greece's accession to the European Community (now European Union) has special provisions and exceptions.
Women have in the monastic republic at all no entry. This also applies to a large extent to female animals. Exceptions are made here. For example, hens are allowed, as are dogs and cats. There are purely practical reasons for this.
Average visitors can stay overnight in each monastery for one day, a maximum of three nights / four days, free of charge, unless otherwise agreed and only after written approval (diamonitirion) from a special office in Thessaloniki. Scholars and true Orthodox novices can have extended privileges. Athos is not a tourist attraction but a spiritual religious place. As a result, only pilgrims, not tourists, are allowed in. Despite the many restrictions that one has to submit to in the monasteries, a visit there is a unique experience, both spiritually as well as scenic and cultural-historical. In the winter half year the number of visitors is significantly lower and the chances of getting a visa are therefore better. In addition, it is better to wander from monastery to monastery in the cooler season.
Regions
- 1 Monastic republic of Athos (Άγιο Όρος).
It occupies by far the largest part of the peninsula. Mount Athos is located in the very south of the peninsula and is 2033 meters high.
.jpg/320px-Mt._Athos_(3939757657).jpg)
places
- 1 Ouranoúpoli (Ουρανούπολη).(German: Himmelsstadt) - the most famous tourist place on Athos with many hotels, restaurants and a harbor, it is located outside the free monastic republic of Athos directly on its border.
- 2 Trípiti. small port and the beginning of the holiday region to Ouranoupoli.
- 3 Ierissós (Ιερισσός).largest and touristic place with 2800 inhabitants on the east coast with historical boatyards. The antique one is also worth seeing necropolis the ancient city of Akanthos on the northern outskirts and the ruins of the ancient Akanthos at the southern end of the village near the port.
- 4 Néa Róda (Νέα Ρόδα Χαλκιδικής).lies at the narrowest point of the peninsula. Here the Persian king Xerxes had a canal built so that his warships could get to the western bank in order to avoid circumnavigating the dangerous southern tip.
- 5 Karyés (Καρυές Αγίου Όρους).Capital and seat of government of the monastic republic. In the past, all pilgrims had to come here to receive the residence permit, which is now issued in Ouranoupoli. There are two taverns, a hotel, an infirmary, shops, a helipad, craft shops, a police station, numerous homesteads where small communities of monks live and the so-called "Konákia". These are the buildings in which the envoys from the individual monasteries once lived with some monks. The representative of the Greek government also has an official building there. Otherwise there are only monasteries and the associated Sikten on Mount Athos. Sikten are settlements in which monks live who are dependent on the superior monastery. There are 20 large monasteries in the monastic republic. They are part of the world cultural heritage of UNESCO. In addition, there are so-called hermitages on Mount Athos, small sleeping places at a very high altitude where the monks can seek refuge and pray.
Other goals
- Sithonia
- Kassandra
- island Ammouliani
language
The official language on Athos is Greek. In the 17 major Greek monasteries, services are also celebrated in the (old) Greek language. There is also a large Serbian, Bulgarian and Russian monastery in which the monks communicate in their respective national language. The services there are celebrated in the old Church Slavonic. There is a Romanian monastic community near the Megisti Lavras monastery. In addition, there are a few monks from Germany, Austria and Switzerland, as well as from other countries in the world, in all monasteries. Every monk who is admitted to Mount Athos automatically receives Greek citizenship.
Visa
Without proof that you would like to make a pilgrimage to the free monastic republic of Athos or even want to live here as a monk, you will not come to the monastic republic. Entry into the monastic republic of Athos begins Pilgrim Visa (Diamonitirion) advance, which must be requested in advance. Visitors with a purely tourist background who are not willing to fit in as guests in the monastic daily routine do not receive a visa.
So a certain amount of preparation and a fight against the bureaucracy is necessary, as only 100 Orthodox and 10 non-Orthodox visitors are allowed per day.
- A permit (diamonitirion) is required for both individuals and groups. This is issued by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Churches (No. 2, Zalokosta Street, Athens, 30 210 3626 894) or the Ministry of Northern Greece, Directorate of Civil Affairs, at Diikitiriou Square in Thessaloniki, 30 2310 270 092.
- Women are not allowed into the territory.
- Overnight stays are prohibited for anyone under the age of 18.
For Orthodox Christians will the Diamonitiria (Residence permit for pilgrims) issued by the offices of Mount Athos in Ouranoupolis (to the right of the port). In order to receive their Diamonitirion, visitors must show their ID and pay the sum of 18 € (Orthodox visitors), 30 € (non-Orthodox) or 10 € (non-Orthodox, but students). Foreign visitors also need a passport. If you are Orthodox but not Greek, you will need to prove it (a letter from a priest or a certificate of baptism will do).
As non-orthodox christian first contact the pilgrims' office (see address below). You may need to be informed of your planned visit in good time - up to six months if you plan to visit in the summer months of June, July and August, when the monasteries are overcrowded with Greek and Orthodox pilgrims, but as little as possible a few days outside the main season.
Contact: The Holy Executive of the Pilgrims' Office of the Holy Mount Athos, 109 Egnatia St., 546 22, Thessaloniki, Greece. Tel. 30 2310 252578, Fax 30 2310 222424
Once you have permission from the pilgrims' office, you will need to contact each monastery you want to stay at. Without their consent, you will be turned away. You can find a good site for more information about monasteries and how to contact them by phone or fax here
The "general diamonitirion" normally granted to visitors allows you to stay a maximum of three days and visit monasteries as you wish. The rarer "special Diamonitirion" allows an unlimited stay in just one monastery.
getting there
The monasteries on Mount Athos can only be reached by ferry, either from Ouranoupoli (for monasteries on the west coast) or from Ierissos for those on the east coast. Many visitors arrive at the port of Dafni (Daphne), from where they continue by bus to the "capital" Karyes. Smaller boats, people carriers and taxi ferries make the pilgrimage from monastery to monastery. Information on the boat timetables can be found here.
The entire Athos peninsula was covered with a filigree network of mule tracks until 1963, there were no vehicles or roads suitable for vehicles. Not until the millennium of Holy Mount Athos (actually it was only the millennium of the Megístis Lávras monastery!) Was a road built from the port of Dáphni up to the capital Karyés. This construction activity was expanded in the following years, and heavy construction machinery worked its way from monastery to monastery, so that today all monasteries can be reached by buses and trucks. The historical paths were ruthlessly destroyed, and today only a fraction of the historical network of paths remains. This is increasingly overgrown again and is no longer passable for hikers. The transport of goods with mule caravans is now only carried out in remote, inaccessible parts of the peninsula.
mobility
If you want to see the third finger of the Chalkidiki peninsula, you have to rely on the ship or boat. There are also sightseeing boats that tours around the peninsula without landing. These do not require a permit and are the only option for women who want to take a look at Mount Athos. From Ouranoúpoli, there is a port here, you can take an excursion boat and drive along the west coast. The ship sails close to the coast and you can see the monasteries very well. It's more difficult on the east coast.
It is possible to go from monastery to monastery. The longest route is from Agia Anna to Great Lavra (6-7 hours). Many of the old footpaths are still free, but from time to time it is necessary to walk on the streets. Mount Athos itself can also be climbed. Since the monasteries close their gates after sunset, you have to plan well if you don't want to spend the night outdoors.
Tourist Attractions
Monasteries
Each monastery is a sight in itself. They are all very old and have a long tradition. They are picturesquely designed, each individually built and still as they were many hundreds of years ago when they were created (the first in 963 AD). When visiting a monastery, however, there are a few basic behaviorsthat you absolutely have to pay attention to. If you feel this as unreasonable, you should refrain from visiting a monastery. One must always remember that these are pilgrimage sites, not tourist attractions.
- 2 Zographou (Ιερά Μονή Ζωγράφου Αγίου Όρους).a Bulgarian monastery inhabited by Bulgarian monks.
- 3 Konstamonitou (Μονή Κωνσταμονίτου)
- 4 Dochiariou (Μονή Δοχειαρίου)
- 5 Xenofondos (Ιερά Μονή Ξενοφώντος).a Greek monastery with one of the largest Catholic churches on the Holy Mountain.
- 6 Agiou Panteleimonos (Μονή Αγίου Παντελεήμονος Αγίου Όρους).the Russian monastery, inhabited by Russian monks. Recently the 1000th anniversary was celebrated with everyone of high standing in Russia, including President Putin and generous oligarchs. The wealthy monastery is constantly being expanded and has been recently renovated.
- 7 Xiropotamou (Μονή Ξηροποτάμου)
- 8 Simonos Petra (Ιερά Μονή Σίμωνος Πέτρας).a Greek monastery, very cosmopolitan in its composition, including monks from many parts of the world.
- 9 Osiou Grigoriou (Ιερά Μονή Οσίου Γρηγορίου)
- 10 Dionysiou (Μονή Διονυσίου)
- 11 Agiou Pavlou (Μονή Αγίου Παύλου)
- 12 Great Lavra (Ιερά Μονή Μεγίστης Λαύρας).the oldest monastery on the Holy Mountain.
- 13 Karakalou (Ιερά Μονή Καρακάλλου Αγίου Όρους)
- 14 Philotheou (Μονή Φιλοθέου)
- 15 Iviron (Ιερά Μονή Ιβήρων).An old Georgian monastery now inhabited by Greek monks.
- 16 Koutloumousiou (Μονή Κουτλουμουσίου)
- 17 Stavronikita (Μονή Σταυρονικήτα)
- 18 Pantocratorus (Μονή Παντοκράτορος)
- 20 Esphigmenou (Ιερά Μονή Εσφιγμένου)
.jpg/350px-Манастир_Констамонит_-_panoramio_(2).jpg)
Upon arrival at a monastery, the visitor can ask the caretaker if and when to see and venerate the relics and wonderful icons, and get some kind of tour and information about the history of the monastery.
Sketae
A Skete (in Greek ΣκΣτη) or Skiti is a community of hermits (mini-villages) under the mandate of a monastery, who are allowed to practice their worship in isolation, but receive some help and security from the monastery community. There are at least a dozen of them on Athos. You can also spend the night there. The advantage here for the visitor is that one is not so much subject to the strict rituals as in the monastery.
- John the Baptist (Romanian). a Romanian skete better known as Prodromos or Timiou Prodromou, which looks more like a monastery and belongs to the Megísti Lavra monastery.
- Kafsokalivia. a Greek skete belonging to the Megísti Lavra monastery.
- Agia Anna. the main Greek skete on Mount Athos, a fairly monastic village belonging to the Megísti Lavra monastery. From here the ascent goes to the top of Mount Athos.
- Mikra Agia Anna. a Greek skete belonging to the Megísti Lavra monastery.
- Agiou Demetrios. Greek skete which belongs to the Vatopedi monastery.
- Agiou Andreos. A skete built by Russian monks, now populated by Greek monks. It seems to be more of a monastery and belongs to the Vatopedi Monastery. It has one of the largest catholicikon (church) in the holy mountain.
- John the Baptist (Greek). a Greek skete belonging to the Iviron monastery.
- Agiou Panteleimonos. a Greek skete belonging to the Koutloumousiou monastery.
- Profiti Iliad. A skete built by Russian monks that is now populated by Greek monks and belongs to the Pantokratoros Monastery and can be seen from there.
- Agiou Demetrios (Romanian). A Romanian Sketer, also known as Lacou Skiti or Lakkoskiti, belonging to the Agiou Pavlou Monastery but so far from the main streets that the monks there are extremely friendly to their few visitors.
- Nea Skiti. a Greek skete belonging to the Agiou Pavlou monastery.
- Annunciation of the Theotokos. a Greek skete belonging to the Xenophondos monastery.
- Bogoroditsa. a Bulgarian skete belonging to the Agiou Panteleimonos monastery.
Other
- Morphonou tower. a white marble tower that is the only remains of the Amalfion Monastery, the only Latin monastery that existed on the Holy Mountain.
- The cave of Saint Athanasius. 15 minutes walk from Prodromos Skete, it is the cave of the original monk from Mount Athos who founded the first monastery (Megísti Lavra) and established the current monastic status quo of the Holy Mountain.
- Sunset in Athos. The wonderful sunset over the panorama of Chalkidiki can only be seen from the monasteries on the south coast (Agios Pavlou, Agiou Dionysiou, Osiou Grigoriou, Simonos Petras, Xiropotamou, Agiou Panteleimonos, Xenophondos, Diochariou).
- Defense tower Prosphorion. The tower, which was built in 1344, served to protect the local monastery property. The restored tower can be visited inside. It houses an exhibition about the monastic republic and from the upper floors you can have a wide panoramic view of the place, the harbor and far over the sea to Sithonia enjoy.
behaviour rules
On Mount Athos, monks escape the modern world, and when you visit as a guest, you must respect their rules and behave as you would expect. In general, the monks expect pilgrims to visit, not tourists. If possible, try to maintain a pious demeanor, even if you are not Orthodox, and avoid asking monks with questions that seem too "secular" for their concerns. The monks consider themselves timeless. When inquiring about chronological dates (e.g. the date the monastery was founded), do so in a tactful way that does not make you seem touristy.
The rules of conduct vary from monastery to monastery. Therefore, if in doubt, ask the manager of the guest house, the Archontaris. In general:
- Do not hold your hands behind your back as on a sightseeing tour, but in front of you.
- Avoid sitting with your legs crossed, especially in church.
- Avoid activities that might disturb the monks, such as bathing in the sea or listening to loud music.
- Photography of monasteries is permitted, but photography of monks or within churches is strictly prohibited without express permission. In some monasteries (e.g. Agiou Panteleimonos) photography is prohibited in the entire monastery area. On holidays, many people take photos even inside the church due to the large crowd. In these cases the ban will not be enforced. However, avoid taking photos with flash or in any way that may be disruptive to the monks.
- Filming video is prohibited on all Mount Athos, but this is rarely enforced for low quality video from point-and-shoot cameras. However, if you film with professional equipment, the suspicion will arise that you are producing a secret documentary about the mountain!
- Dress respectfully: no shorts. Shirts and T-shirts with short sleeves are often allowed, but not in all monasteries. Donning white shoes can also be seen as disrespectful.
- While visitors are usually welcome at church services, during the high season in summer, space may be limited and non-Orthodox may be restricted to certain exterior parts of the church (e.g. the exonarthex) or may not be expected to attend at all . Even if it is allowed in the services, non-Orthodox should refrain at the end of the service from participating in the Holy Mysteries (communion) or consuming the antidoron (unconsecrated bread).
- see also others Code of conduct
activities
- Excursion boats. From Ouranoúpoli excursion boats go south every day. However, you are not allowed to moor near the monasteries and only approach the coast up to about 400 m. There is a tour guide who tells a lot about the monasteries. But it is often multilingual and therefore a bit annoying. The excursion goes to the south of Athos with an excellent view of the mountain of the same name. The journey leads past picturesque bays and has more to offer than just the monasteries of the monastic republic.
- hike. You can hike from monastery to monastery on a variety of hiking trails. A good map of the ways is here also available good directions in German or better in English. When hiking in this sparsely populated mountain region, it is essential to protect yourself Precautions to be observed.
- Church services: They are the center of life in the monasteries and sketches of Athos. Refer to the Respect section for information on properly attending church services. Services usually take place in the following ways:
- A morning service known as "Matins" or "! Orthros" that starts at 4:00 AM and blends in with the divine liturgy until it ends around 7:00 AM.
- An afternoon service known as "Vespers" for Orthodox, held in most monasteries from 5:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. In some monasteries and sketas, however, this time can vary.
- A night watch that is only offered on the nights of the major Orthodox festivals or the festival of saints to which the monastery in question is dedicated. A list of the festive days of the monasteries can be found [ here (Note that the dates are on the Julian calendar, so you will need to add 13 days to get the correct dates).
- Relic worship: In every monastery and every skete there are valuable relics that are normally available during or immediately after the service. To properly venerate the relics, see the Respect section.
- Ascent to the summit: The summit of Mount Athos can only be reached in the summer half-year if you start hiking from Agia Anna Skete (south of the Agiou Pavloulos monastery). The ascent from Skete to the summit and the return takes about 8 hours.
kitchen
One is not seduced into the vice of gluttony on Athos. In view of the meal times that have to get used to being reduced to two meals a day and the portion sizes reserved for ascetic monks, it is advisable to take additional provisions with you. Shopping is only available in Daphni and Karyes.
In order to be able to eat in the monasteries, you must observe the meal times. These usually take place after the service, ie after Vespers in the afternoon (around 6:00 p.m.) or after the divine liturgy in the morning (around 7:00 a.m.). However, since these times are not exact, you should ask about the schedule at each monastery. If you arrive after meal times, you can ask the Archontaris (caretaker) for food.
The Athos cuisine is characterized by Mediterranean customs, but is subject to rigorous restrictions due to the strict rules of fasting compared to Greek cuisine outside the monastic state. Regardless of the fasting period, meat is generally avoided. Fish and seafood are served on public holidays, and rarely on normal working days. The main components of the meals are vegetables, potatoes, olives, olive oil and fruits (for dessert). This is usually obtained from own gardens, but also when there is a greater need (hospitality for pilgrims!) And imported from outside in winter, often from the monastery's own possessions in Chalkidiki. Cheese and eggs (the consumption of which, like that of olive oil, is regulated by the fasting laws) are not produced on the Athos, as there is no cattle breeding or dairy farming. The only exception is beekeeping. Bread and confectionery products are produced or imported in a bakery in the capital Karyes and in the monastery's own ovens. Wine for personal consumption is mostly produced and pressed in-house and served with food on public holidays, and is occasionally exported. Agriculture is only possible in a relatively flat stretch of land in the north of the Athos peninsula, in the area of the Chilandar monastery. The wine producer Tsantali has leased extensive vineyards on the hills near the Athos border.
Some of the larger monasteries sell wine and spirits. Beer, wine and spirits can also be bought in Karyes or Dafni. Although you can buy alcohol, it is considered inappropriate to drink in front of the monks.
accommodation
The only places to stay overnight on Mount Athos are the monasteries and sketae, which offer spartan dormitory-style accommodation in guest houses (archontariki). Most, but not all, require advance reservations. You will find a list of the telephone and fax numbers of the monasteries and sketches here.
Be sure to check in before 4:00 p.m. otherwise there is a risk of the monastery being closed! Simple meals are included at certain times. Most of the monasteries do not offer bathing facilities; Even those who do this will not have more than a cold water shower.
No payment is expected for stays of one night. However, donations are usually happily accepted, especially if you are given permission to stay longer.
shop
"Souvenirs" are mostly of a religious nature. There are shops in Dafni, Karyes and some monasteries. The following is a non-exhaustive list of items you can purchase to take with you:
- Natural cosmetics and natural remedies
- Icons (all prices and sizes)
- Rosaries (known as Komboskini in Greek or Chotki in Russian)
- Books on the lives of saints
- incense
- CDs of monastery choirs (the most famous of the Holy Mountain is that of Simonos Petras)
- Walking sticks (engraved with the Athos emblem)
- Wine from the vineyards of Athos
When buying rosaries or icons, don't miss the opportunity to have them blessed with the sacred relics of a monastery!
climate
The climate on Athos is similar to that of Halkidiki. There are actually only two seasons, the summer and the rainy season. In summer it is very hot and there is rarely any rain. In the two transitional periods it then rains a little more. Winter is very rainy and often snow falls, which usually does not stay long but occasionally causes damage to the Mediterranean flora (olives!). High alpine conditions are always to be expected on the Athos summit in winter. On the north-east coast there is overall a somewhat harsher climate, also with strong winds and strong seas, than on the south-west coast.
literature
- Athos - where silence is at home: As a pilgrim to the holy mountain - by Erich Diefenbach
- Once to Athos and back: The closed world of the monks from the holy mountain - by Frank Urbansk
Web links
- official page - in Greek and English
- Visit Mount Athos - engl., page with travel information
- Friends of Athos Association
- Leaflet about visiting the Holy Mount Athos
- Cooking recipes of the monks
- Video about life on Athos part 1
- Video about life on Athos part 2
