Fourvière Hill and Vieux Lyon - Collina Fourvière e Vieux Lyon

Fourvière Hill and Vieux Lyon is a district of the city of Lyon.

To know

Fourvière was the original location of the Lugdunum Roman. In the 19th century it became the religious center of the city, with the basilica and the offices of the Archbishopric.

After Venice, Old Lyon, a narrow strip along the right bank of the Saone, is the largest Renaissance area in Europe (it is actually far behind Venice).

The area is generally crowded in the afternoons, especially on weekends. To really enjoy its architectural beauties, the best time is therefore in the morning. Around lunchtime, people disappear a little in the restaurant terraces, the stalls and the tourist crowd decreases.

Geographical notes

Old Lyon is divided into three parts which are named after their respective churches:

• St. Paul, North of Place du Change, it was the commercial area during the Renaissance;
• St Jean, between place du Change and the cathedral of St Jean, was the home of many wealthy families: aristocrats, public officials, etc .;
• St Georgessouth of St Jean was an artisans' neighborhood.

Background

Its current organization, with narrow streets mainly parallel to the river, dates back to the Middle Ages. The buildings were built between the 15th and 17th centuries, notably by wealthy Italian, Flemish and German merchants who settled in Lyon, where four fairs were held every year. At the time, the buildings in Lyon were said to be the tallest in Europe. The area was entirely renovated in the 1980s and 1990s. Now it offers the visitor colorful and narrow streets; there are some interesting artisan shops but also many tourist traps.

How to orient yourself

How to get

How to get around

Take the funicular up the hill from the subway station Vieux Lyon, or if you are fit, go up Montée des Chazeaux (starts at the southern end of Rue du Boeuf), Montée St Barthélémy (from St Paul station) or Montée du Gourguillon (from the northern end of Rue St Georges, behind the Vieux Lyon metro station). This is a vertical climb of approximately 150m.

What see

Old Lyon

• 45.7608334.8272221 ^{[link not working]}Lyon Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Jean), place St Jean (Metro station Vieux-Lyon). Mon-Fri 08: 15-12: 00 and 13: 45-19: 30, Sat-Sun 08: 15-12: 00 and 13: 45-19: 00; celebrations (no visits) Mon-Fri 09:00 and 19:00, Sat 09:00, Sun 08:30 and 10:30. The cathedral is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist (St Jean-Baptiste) and Saint Stephen (St Etienne) and has the title of primatial because the bishop of Lyon has the honorary title of Primat des Gaules. Built between 1180 and 1480, it is largely in the Gothic style with Romanesque elements; the oldest parts are the choir and the side chapels, and when you go towards the facade, the style becomes more and more Gothic. The cathedral houses a spectacular astronomical clock built in the 14th century, but modified later. Especially worth seeing when the bells ring, every day from 12pm to 4pm. Above the main door, the rose window, known as the "lamb rose window", is an admirable work of art depicting the life of Saint Stephen and Saint John the Baptist. Appropriate dress is required.  
• 45.76114.82782 Archaeological garden of St Jean (Jardin archéologique), rue de la Bombarde / rue Mandelot / rue des Estrées ( Vieux Lyon). Free admission. Close to the Cathedral (from the north side), this small garden displays the remains of religious buildings that occupied these spaces before the cathedral was erected. The oldest remains are dated to the 4th century BC. (The baptistery of the church of St Etienne). 

• Traboule of old Lyon ( Vieux Lyon). Free admission. closed at night. THE traboules they are a typical architectural feature of historic buildings in Lyon. They are corridors that connect two streets through a building and usually a courtyard. Lot of traboules they are unique architectural masterpieces, largely influenced by Italy and especially by Florence. Some of them are officially open to the public. They connect the following addresses:

• from 54 rue St Jean to 27 rue du Boeuf (the longest in Lyon)
• from 27 rue St Jean to 6 rue des Trois Maries
• from 2 place du Gouvernement to quai Romain Rolland.

To open the doors, simply press the service button next to the door code keypad. If you can't enter from one side, try the opposite entrance. In the morning, many other doors are open for service (post office, garbage collection), so more traboules are accessible. There are traboules in almost all buildings between Quai Romain Rolland and Rue St Jean / Rue des Trois Maries, and others between Rue St Jean and Rue du Boeuf.

Please note that in Traboules the buildings are inhabited. The people who live there like to sleep on Sunday mornings, or may work at night, or simply prefer not to be disturbed, so please be as quiet as possible, regardless of whether you are in an 'officially open' place or in a traboule normally closed. It is best to whisper when talking, because small courtyards amplify the sound of voices, and even normal conversation can be quite annoying for the inhabitants. 

• Renaissance courtyards ( Vieux Lyon). Free admission. Closed at night. In addition to the buildings mentioned above, some have very nice but not real courtyards traboules (i.e., no passage from one street to another). The most notable are: Maison du Chamarier (37 rue St Jean) e Maison du Crible (16 rue du Boeuf), where the famous "Pink Tower" is located. 

• 45.7634.827913 Rue St Jean ( Vieux Lyon). This cobbled pedestrian street is the main axis of the area. It is full of souvenir shops and restaurants mainly aimed at tourists. Local people are aware that i bouchon real ones are extremely rare here. On a sunny Sunday afternoon, it may be difficult to walk due to the crowds of locals and tourists. You can also check out the quieter rue des Trois Maries which runs parallel to rue St Jean, between place de la Baleine is rue du Palais de Justice.  
• 45.76254.8269444 Rue du Boeuf ( Vieux Lyon). Parallel to Rue St Jean, this street is much quieter and just as beautiful. It also has a number of restaurants, more expensive than those on rue St Jean, but, on average, it is worth much more.  

• 45.76454.82835 Place du Change (Bus C3-Gare St Paul). The largest square in the area has two notable buildings. There Loge du Change, on the west side, it was partially built by the great architect Soufflot. It is now a Protestant church known as Temple du Change. It can be visited on Saturdays. Religious service on Sundays, 10:30 am. Opposite is the Maison Thomassin, with its 14th century Gothic style facade. The Thomassins were a powerful merchant family in the Renaissance. Above the second floor the windows are the arms of the King of France, the Dauphin (heir to the Kingdom) and the Duchess Anne of Brittany. Unfortunately, the courtyard is closed to the public.  

• 45.76524.827326 Rue Juiverie (Bus C3-Gare St Paul). Another typical street of Vieux Lyon. It is named after the Jewish community that settled there, but they were expelled in the 14th century. Take a look at the backyard of the Hotel Builloud (number 8); has a magnificent first floor gallery, designed by Philibert Delorme who was one of the most important local architects during the Renaissance.  
• 45.76694.826957 Church of San Paolo (Église Saint-Paul), rue St Paul (Bus C3-Gare St Paul). A very beautiful church, with mixed Romanesque and Gothic styles. The oldest parts date back to the 10th century.  
• 45.7571664.8246928 St Georges neighborhood, rue St Georges, rue du Doyenné and other small streets (M: Vieux Lyon). St Georges is the name given to the southern part of Vieux Lyon. It has beautiful Renaissance palaces which, however, are not really comparable to the palaces of St Jean; on the other hand, it is much quieter than the Saint Jean area. 

• 45.7586114.8247229 Montée du Gourguillon ( Vieux Lyon / Funicular: Minimes). This picturesque montée (sloping street on a hill) starts behind the Vieux Lyon metro station and ends quite close to the Roman theaters of Fourvière. It was the main link between the Saone river and the Fourvière peak in Roman, medieval and Renaissance times. Today it maintains a medieval spirit. Around the numbers 5-7 there is Impasse Turquet, a little cul-de-sac named after Etienne Turquet, an Italian who is said to have founded the silk industry in Lyon in 1536. In this small passage are the oldest houses in the city, dating back to the 13th or 14th century, with wooden balconies.  

• 45.7619444.82805610 Palais de justice, Quai Romain Rolland ( Vieux Lyon). The historic court house, also called "the 24 columns", was built between 1835 and 1842 by the architect Louis-Pierre Baltard. It is a fine example of French "neoclassical" architecture. It now houses only the Criminal Court (Cour d'Assises) and the court of appeal. The other jurisdictions moved to a new building in Part-Dieu in 1995. The most famous trial held there was that of the former head of the Lyon Gestapo, Klaus Barbie, in 1987. The building is undergoing major renovations.  

• 45.7641674.827511 Lyon Historical Museum and International Puppet Museum (Musées Gadagne), 14 rue de Gadagne / 1 place du Petit Collège (Metro: Vieux Lyon, Bus: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ 33 4 78 42 03 61. 1 museum: € 6 including audio guide, 2 museums: € 8, 2 museums temporary exhibition: € 10. Under 26s and disabled people: free. (Jun 2018). Wed-Sun 11: 00-18: 30. After 10 years of major renovations, these museums dedicated to the history of the city and puppets (such as the famous Guignol of Lyon) reopened in June 2009, with great public and critical success. The building itself, a magnificent Renaissance palace, is worth a visit. A nice garden and a cafe have also been created at the top of the building (free access). Portions of the local history museum were closed (galleries 7-9) in June 2015. Temporary exhibitions are shown. The puppet museum is mostly for children and is ignorable if you do not read French and are not fascinated by the tradition of local puppets or see a small number of pieces typical of the best known and easily available traditions (Turkey, Java, Japan , Siam). Wheelchair or pram access is possible to the historical museum via a labyrinthine series of elevators, albeit only to parts of the puppet museum.  

Fourvière Hill

• 45.7622924.82255612 Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière, place de Fourvière (Funicular: Fourvière), ☎ 33 4 78 25 86 19. free (Jun 2018). 10: 00-17: 00. Masses: Mon-Sat 07:15, 09:30, 11:00, 17:00; Sun 07:30, 09:30, 11:00, 17:00. Built in 1872 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, patron saint of Lyon, this imposing white marble church has been likened to an elephant with its feet raised. It is a typical example of the "eclectic" style of the nineteenth century, with architectural elements that recall ancient, classical and gothic eras. The interior decoration in the Byzantine style is extremely exuberant and certainly strikes the visitor for the wealth of contents. Very interesting both the wall representations and the stained glass windows in art nouveau style. The visit also includes the crypt and a side chapel.

Tours of the roof and bell towers are available in the afternoon for € 6.  

• Religious art museum (Musee d'art religieux), 8 place de Fourvière, ☎ 33 4 78 25 03 04. Mon-Sun 10: 00-12: 30 and 14: 00-17: 30, closed in January and February. The small museum holds treasures donated to the church for its construction. 

• 45.7627464.82300513 Fourvière lookout point (Esplanade de Fourvière), place de Fourvière. Next to the basilica is the viewpoint, with the best view over the city. If the weather is clear you can even see Mont Blanc in the distance. This is a great place to start your city tour because you can really see it as a whole. 

To get off there, you can take the monteé Cardinal Decourtray, then Rue Cléberg is Rue de l'Antiquaille leading to the Roman theaters, or stroll through the Jardins du Rosaire, a beautiful garden; then the stairs lead to Rue du Boeuf in Vieux Lyon. Of course, you can also take the funicular.

• 45.7637694.82226714 Metallic tower of Fourvière (Tour métallique de Fourvière) (Metro: Fourvière). Next to the basilica is a smaller (86m) replica of the Eiffel Tower, completed in 1894. Its construction was backed up by anticlerical people for having a non-religious building as the highest point in Lyon, which is actually a ' altitude of 372 m at the top. It now serves as a radio and TV antenna and is closed to the public.  

• 45.7597224.81972215 Roman Theater of Lyon (Théâtre antique de Lyon) (Funicular: Minimes). Free admission. These two well-preserved theaters are the most important remnant of the Roman city of Lugdunum. The Gallo-Roman museum was built next to them. The "Nuits de Fourvière" summer festival is held here every year, which can cause entry restrictions in the evenings from June to early August.  
• 45.7586114.81972216 Roman Odeon of Lyon (Odéon antique de Lyon). This second theater is placed next to the larger one.  

Saint-Just is the neighborhood, southwest of the Roman theaters, has less famous but equally interesting historical sites.

• 45.75594.8203817 ^{[link not working]}Église Saint-Just, 41 rue des Farges. It is the reconstruction of one of the oldest churches in Lyon, dedicated as for San Giusto, to the thirteenth bishop of the city in the fourth century, built on the ancient Roman necropolis.  

• 45.75514.8137918 ^{[link not working]}Église Saint-Irénée, 51 rue des Macchabées (Funicular: St Just), ☎ 33 478254326. Church Mon-Sun: 08: 30-18: 00, crypt Sat 14: 30-17: 00, closed in August. The oldest church in Lyon and one of the oldest in France. The site is built on a Gallo-Roman necropolis that was in use for centuries, right up to the Middle Ages. Some 5th or 6th century sarcophagi are visible in the courtyard. The crypt dates back to the 9th century and was renovated in the 19th century. The early Christian remains (from the 4th-6th century) are kept inside. The church was rebuilt in the 19th century in a neo-classical style with a Byzantine influence. An arch from the 5th century still remains visible. Behind the church, the Calvary built in 1687 is also a great viewpoint.  

• 45.7604194.81991419 ^{[link previously not working]}Gallo-Roman Museum of Fourvière (Gallo-Roman Museum of Fourvière), 17 rue Cléberg (Funicular: Minimes-Théâtres Romains), ☎ 33 4 72 38 49 30. € 4, reduced rate € 2.50, under 18 and disabled people free; free on thursdays (Jun 2018). Tue-Sun 10 am-6pm. The second largest museum in France, it has all kinds of exhibits relating to the history of the Rhône-Alpes. A free visit to the Roman theaters might be just as interesting for those who aren't quite keen on history.  

• 45.76214.8273220 Museum of miniatures and cinema theaters (Musée de la Miniature et des Décors de cinéma), 60 rue St Jean (Metro: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 4 72 00 24 77. € 7, under 15 / students € 5.50 (Jun 2018). Mon 14: 00-18: 30, Tue-Fri 10: 00-18: 30, Sat-Sun 10: 00-19: 00. Created by the artist Dan Ohlmann, this private gallery displays around 120 miniature models of all kinds of scenes: houses, restaurants, workshops, schools, etc., from Lyon or elsewhere, historical or contemporary. The accuracy of the patterns is amazing and some sections will be really fun for kids. Cinematic scenarios are also presented. The gallery is located in a large 16th century building called Maison des Avocats (lawyers' house).  

What to do

• 45.762784.821 Parc des Hauteurs, place de Fourvière / Montée Nicolas de Lange (Cable car: Fourvière). This park between the metal tower of Fourvière and the Loyasse cemetery is a walk with a beautiful walkway that offers a splendid view towards the Monts d'Or and the Beaujolais. There is an aerial adventure course and a ski and mountain bike trail.  
• 45.7551294.8220832 Garden of curiosities (Jardin des Curiosités), Passage des Hauts de St Just (Cable car: Minimes / St Just). Small garden hidden at the bottom of a road / parking lot, behind a metal door. It was designed by Canadian artists in a surrealist spirit (remember Magritte or Dalì). Also a nice lookout point on the southern part of Lyon.  

Shopping

• 45.7628254.8270231 Antic Wine, 18 rue du Boeuf (Metro: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 4 78 37 08 96, @[email protected]. 12 to 3,000 €. Tue-Sun 11: 00-20: 00. This small shop has an exceptional selection of wines from all over the world. Very interesting selection of wines from the Rhone valley, extraordinary collection of old villages. Very reasonable prices. 

How to have fun

• 45.757424.824731 Johnny Walsh's, 56 rue St Georges (Metro: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 4 78 42 98 76. Tue-Thu 19: 00-02: 00, Fri-Sun 19: 00-03: 00. Nice, authentic Irish pub with good music and some live performances. 
• 45.7624464.8264692 Georges Five, 32 rue du Boeuf (Metro: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 4 72 40 23 30. Tue-Sat 19: 00-01: 00. This place was opened by the owner of the Antic Wine wine shop. It therefore has a very wide selection of wines (2,800 references), ranging from small local producers to the most famous and sought after names. Also high quality food: ham, cheese, etc. Warning: the place is small, always full, and hosts numerous private events, so if you haven't made your reservation a couple of weeks in advance, save yourself the pain of trying your luck. 
• 45.763114.827983 St James's Pub, 19 rue St Jean (Metro: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 478373670. 15:00-03:00. Irish pub. 
• 45.763544.828934 ^{[link not working]}Kelly's Pub, 12 Quai Romain Rolland (Metro: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 478855331, @[email protected]. 15:00-03:00. Irish pub, live music on Saturdays, Irish music sessions on Thursdays, quizzes every Monday, pool, darts, Irish and English pub food, air conditioning 
• 45.764924.828015 The Smoking Dog, 16 rue Lainerie (Bus: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ 33 964066890. Quiz English Pub on Tuesdays. Air conditioning. 
• 45.7655494.8276666 The Beers, 3 place St Pau (Bus: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ 33 4 72 00 23 60. Nice bar with a large selection of beers. Very pleasant terrace. 
• 45.7661964.82777 La Cave des Voyageurs, 7 place St Paul (Bus: C3-Gare St Paul / Metro: Hôtel de Ville / Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 4 78 28 92 28, @[email protected]. from 3 €. Tue-Sat 18: 00-01: 00. Opened over 20 years ago by "Jeannot", the quaint and noisy owner of the other bar next door, this cozy little wine bar has built up a large and interesting selection of several hundred wines over the years. Of course the clubs are well represented (Beaujolais, Burgundy, Rhone Valley) but the list continues to expand geographically. It also serves some quality food: ham, sausages, cheese. 

theater

• 45.765574.8285478 Théâtre le Guignol de Lyon (Compagnie des Zonzons), 2 rue Louis Carrand (Bus: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ 33 4 78 28 92 57. € 9, child under 15 € 7. The largest theater in Guignol, with original creations for children and adults 
• 45.7667464.8265099 Espace Gerson, 1 place Gerson (Bus: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ 33 4 78 27 96 99. 

Where to eat

Moderate prices

• 45.763384.828071 Boulangerie du Palais, 8 rue du Palais de Justice (Metro: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 478370943. In this small bakery you will find excellent praline tarts, a famous local dessert. 
• 45.7650594.8288812 René Nardone, 3 place Ennemond Fousseret / 26 quai de Bondy (Bus: C3-Gare St Paul / Metro: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 4 78 28 29 09. From € 7. Summer: Mon-Sun 09: 00-01: 00; winter: Wed-Sun 10 am-7pm. Delicious ice cream with very original flavors, served on a very pleasant terrace. Completely overcrowded on sunny weekends, be prepared to queue ... but well worth the wait if you are a true ice cream fan. 
• 45.766314.828353 Wallace bar, 2 rue Octavio Mey (Bus: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ 33 472002391. From € 8. Mon-Sat 12: 00-15: 00 and 19: 00-22: 00, Sun 11: 00-21: 00. This cute pub is a good place for drinks and live sports, but also serves good British and French food in large portions. 
• 45.765924.827714 Boulangerie Chez Jules, 7 Rue Octavio Mey (B: C3-Gare St Paul). Bakery 

Average prices

• 45.7625714.8266395 Les Adrets, 30 rue du Boeuf (Metro: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 4 78 38 24 30. Lunch from € 13, dinner € 23 to € 38. Excellent classic French cuisine, made of quality products, in a nice decor. One of the best places in the area. 

High prices

• 45.7590284.8234486 Christian Tetedoie, 4 rue professeur pierre marion, ☎ 33 4 78 29 40 10, @[email protected]. Lunch € 40, dinner € 56/68/76/96. A new address for a recognized chef. The previous restaurant had a classic dining room on the banks of the Saone. Têtedoie now takes its restaurant to the next level with a prestigious location offering one of the best views of the city and a very contemporary decor, with the same culinary spirit and prices. The wine list is so big that they have to carry it around on a trolley. The place also has a wine bar, a "bistro" style terrace (€ 40/50) and an Italian restaurant. 
• 45.7622584.8263817 Au 14 Février, 36 Rue du Bœuf, ☎ 33 4 78 92 91 39. Menu € 52 / € 75. Tue-Sat for dinner only. If you can book at least two months in advance and are ready for a "surprise" menu, this small place (16 seats!) Run by Japanese chef Tsuyoshi Arai is a truly unique experience. Tell your waiter what you don't like or can't eat, and you'll be served a five- or nine-course menu that changes daily. The cuisine is French with Japanese overtones, incredibly creative and most importantly delicious. 

Where stay

Moderate prices

• 45.7652964.827861 ^{[link previously not working]}Saint Paul hotels, 6 rue Lainerie (Bus: C3 / Gare St Paul), ☎ 33 4 78 28 13 29. € 57 (Jun 2018). This 2-star hotel offers rather small rooms but great service and cleanliness. Good value for money. The street can be quite noisy, so ask for a courtyard side room or bring your own earplugs. 

High prices

• 45.764944.827412 ^{[link previously not working]}LaTour-Lyon, 21 rue Juiverie (Metro: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 6 62 50 84 38, @[email protected]. €80-110. An accommodation in a Renaissance tower in Vieux-Lyon. A delightful duplex and unique setting with a panoramic view through 17 windows and luxurious amenities. 
• 45.765734.827853 College Hotel, 5 Place Saint-Paul (Bus: C3-Gare St Paul / Metro: Vieux Lyon / Hôtel de Ville), ☎ 33 4 72 10 05 05. 92€. In the Saint Paul district, the most touristic of the old city. 
• 45.763254.827384 Cour des Loges, 2-8 rue du Boeuf (Metro: Vieux Lyon), ☎ 33 4 72 77 44 44, @[email protected]. rooms € 249 to € 620, breakfast € 25. In an exceptional 14th century building 

How to keep in touch

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