Cotonou (in French: Cotonou) is the largest city in Benin and it is the main port of entry for tourists. The city is located in the south, on the coast. It is the seat of the national government and is considered the economic capital of the country. Even if Cotonou is considered the capital de facto, but the official capital is Porto Novo
Understand
The name of the city 'Cotonou' means "the mouth of the river of death" in the Fon language. The site was used as a fishing village during the time of the Dahomey Kingdom. The French were given permission to build a trading post, until the entire region was given to them in 1868. The city was used to defend themselves against the British in their conquests.
Cotonou it grew to become the largest city in the country, right up until independence. Although the capital is in Porto Novo, Cotonou it continues to be the economic and population center of the country. It also attracts many government institutions and embassies, regardless of the state of Porto-Novo, leading to the city being named as the capital of Beninde facto.
To get
By plane
The Cotonou-Cadjehoun Airport(IATA: COO) It is located just west of the city center, and is the main airport serving the city and the country. Services have been scheduled from most African capitals, along with connections to Brussels Y Paris. short-haul flights from nearby Lakes they are a popular way to get to Benin.
By train
There is a train line that runs to the middle of the country, from Cotonou to Parakou, in charge of L’Organization Commune Benin-Niger des Chemins de Fer et Transports. While the train takes longer than a bush taxi, and that it is a much more relaxing way to travel. First class tickets are slightly more expensive than second class and are worth the extra costs. The train leaves Cotonou, three times a week (Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays) at 8 a.m., to arrive in Parakou around 6:30 p.m., and return the next day, leaving Parakou station at 8 a.m., arriving at 6:30 pm in Cotonou. First class costs are 5,600 West African CFA francs ($ 9,33), while the second class is 4000 ($ 6,67).
Trains at these times usually stop at Bohicon, which is 4 hours from Cotonou. costs the fare 1400 ($ 2,33) for the first class, and 1100 ($ 1,83) for the second class. A travel company also rents trains from the colonial period for sightseeing trips of several days, the service is called tren d'Ebene and is operated by Voyageur SARL.
By bus
Buses coming from nearby capitals like Accra, Lakes Y Lomé they are abundant. Among others, ABC Transport offers daily services. There are bus services from Cotonou to all the cities of the country.
Travel
By zemidjan
The best way to get around is by taxi. A cheaper alternative is by 'moto', called zemidjans. It is simply a question of scooters or taxi-bikes. These are very popular and unique to Benin. Rates are negotiable, and there are no meters. The minimum fee is 100 CFA ($ 0,17).
Moto taxis: locally called zemidjans or kekenos, are the most common mode of transportation for the average Beninese person. These are very popular, and while they are not unique to Benin, they are probably more concentrated here than anywhere else in the world. Rates are negotiable and there are no meters. The minimum fee is 100 CFA. Expect to pay around 100 CFA per kilometer. While staying in the center of Cotonou, the rate should not exceed 400 CFA. Bring a helmet or buy one once you arrive in Cotonou; it is absolutely essential for your safety, and even with a helmet riding a zemidjan (or "zem") is much more dangerous than driving a car. However, many visitors to Benin, especially those on a budget and thrill seekers, will have a zem at some point; it's just not practical to avoid using zems without your own car.
In taxi
Conventional drop-off taxis that take you directly to your destination, such as those you might find in New York or London, are not the norm in Benin: most taxi drivers wait at fixed intersections for passengers who want to rent the entire vehicle . Dantokpa market, Étoile Rouge roundabout or Gare de Jonquet bus station are the most likely places where you can find taxis, although other secondary crossings may also have taxi drivers available during the day. Many people know a taxi driver that they communicate with by phone or WhatsApp when they need to, so you can get in touch with a driver by asking around. However, they will generally not be interested in short trips between cities, preferring that passengers hire a taxi for several hours at a time. Still, figure around 3000 CFA for a 30 minute trip, or 10000-15000 CFA to rent a taxi for a few hours. Please note that most of the taxis are in poor condition. The exceptions are the taxis available in the main hotels (such as the Novotel or Azalaï) or the airport; These are typically late-model compact cars, but it is estimated that they will pay at least double and up to 4-5 times the old prices.
There are also taxis that run a fixed route; These taxis often go to other cities, but can be called for trips within Cotonou. They follow the main national road out of Cotonou, starting from Dantokpa market and heading west past the Godomey interchange. Expect to pay FCFA 200 from the market to Étoile Rouge, and another FCFA 200 to continue to the Stade de l'Amitié. They also head east, across the lagoon to Akpakpa. Bush taxis also follow this route. Note that taxis typically cram two passengers in the front and four in the back, although you can double your fare if you want more comfort, so if you have a group of three or more, you may want to negotiate with the driver to take you to your exact destination. Some Cotonois will take taxis (which are safer than zems,
Walking
Cotonou is not a particularly attractive city for strolling on foot, but much of it is also based on an easily navigable grid system, making walking tours a decent option for those looking to meander or have qualms about hopping on. to the rear of a zemidjan. In particular, the easiest area to navigate on foot for visitors stretches from Dantokpa Market to Ganhi and west to Jonquet. These are the main commercial areas of Cotonou, so buyers will want to park the car and walk to see the traders and vendors selling everything. Pay attention to your belongings though, and your best bet is probably to avoid walking after dark.
The upscale Haie Vive area is also a good place to explore on foot, as it is concentrated along a single strip, but don't be surprised expats bring their NGO-tagged SUVs for another drink a few doors down. down.
By car
Driving in Cotonou can be heartbreaking. Most foreign drivers will never have shared the road with so many motorcycles in their life, and rush hour is especially nerve-wracking as motorcycles enter and exit traffic. Many vons (narrow side streets) have potholes at best and underwater at worst. Still, the grid layout makes Cotonou not very difficult to navigate, and having your own car is arguably the safest way to travel. Most establishments have some kind of parking, but no one will blink if you pull up on the sidewalk to park.
Watch
- 1 Cotonou cathedral (Notre Dame des Apotres) (Near the Ancien Pont bridge). It stands out for its distinct architecture and burgundy color of white striped tiles. The cathedral is the seat of the Catholic Archdiocese of Cotonou.
Do
- 1 Institut Français , Avenida Jean Paul II (in front of the CNHU hospital complex). Hours vary by event. The Institut Français is a fixture on the Cotonou cultural scene, organizing concerts, film screenings, theater, stand-up comedy and more. 0-3000 CFA. (Updated June 2017 | edit)
- 2 Stade de l'Amitié , Rue 2651, ☏ [21 38 17 84]. Benin's national stadium and anchor of a sports complex, Stade de l'Amitié hosts not only football matches, but also concerts and markets on the esplanade and adjacent parking lots. The Stade is also the site of a host of restaurants and bars, making it a popular place for Beninese to go on weekend nights to get the party started. (Updated June 2017 | edit)
- 3 Air de Jeux Plage Erevan (Yerevan Beach Playground), Rue 230 / Boulevard de la Marina (just across the beach road from the airport runway), ☏ [[1]]. Interesting stretch because you have an Airbus A300 parked in the sand behind you. It may be a bit dirty. Just west of here is a long beach called Fidjrosse Beach (Plage De Fidjrosse). With both, be careful with the powerful waves and do not go at night. (Updated August 2020 | edit)
- 4 Obama Beach (behind the Congress Center and not far from the Novotel Cotonou Orisha), ☏ [[2]]. Another beach with the well-known namesake and even a sign from it if you want a photoshoot. This beach is a bit dirtier than the other and is also subject to heavy safety and surfing considerations. 300 CFA. (Updated August 2020 | edit)
- You can take a boat tour of Ganvie, the stilt town known as the Venice of Africa on the other side of Lake Nokoue. It should be possible to take a boat from the Hotel du Lac in Cotonou, where the price can be around 5,000 CFA, then different tours can be done in the village. Another option is to hire a boat operator at the boarding point in Abomey-Calavi for Ganvie. Just don't touch the water, as the lack of a sewer system means the lake is a septic tank. Even the Lagune de Cotonou has heaps of rubbish along the banks, so I'm sure you won't want to.
To buy
- 1 Dantokpa Market (Grand Marché of Dantokpa), Boulevard St. Michel (by the lagoon). The Dantokpa market is supposedly the largest in West Africa, and it is indeed very vast. You can buy everything here, be prepared to negotiate, and be prepared for noise, crowds, smells, and general sensory overload. A fascinating place to visit.
To eat
In addition to what is listed here, you are likely to find countless street stalls and local restaurants in Cotonou. These can range from a woman on the side of the road with a tub of oil to large outdoor bars that double as restaurants during the day. Street snacks to look out for include atta (bean flour fritters), doko (small fried donuts, sometimes made with mashed bananas) and igname frite (fried yam slices). Most neighborhoods will also have a blue-topped coffee bar or "Cafette Diallo," serving Nescafé and local variants on spaghetti for less than a dollar, catering to a working-class crowd. The maquis Locals are also numerous and serve a basic combination of rice or pate. and meat at very cheap prices.
Budget
- Boucherie Zitawi , Ganhi, near the Avenue Steinmetz flyover (In the von opposite the Pacha nightclub). The ideal place for fast food here. Cotonou may lack McDonald's and KFC, but it has a suitable shawarma spot that also offers burgers and other Lebanese dishes. 1000-4000 CFA / meal. (updated February 2017 | edit)
- Chez Maman Bénin , Rue 201A (On the von one block north of Boulevard Saint-Michel, near the Hall des Arts), ☏ [21 32 33 38]. Mon-Sun 11 AM-12PM. A local institution that has been in operation for several decades. This isn't the best Beninese food you'll eat, but it's a great introduction - they have a wide selection of dishes and an indoor dining area, both of which are far from the norm in low-end restaurants and maquis here. 1000-3000 CFA / person. (updated February 2017 | edit)
- Fifadji Pork Maquis , Rue 2650 (Opposite Pharmacie La Tamaya). 12: 00-18: 00. This maquis has no name, but you will know it is there when you see a grill master caring for meats cooked on a grill made with a drum of oil. This is the best place in Cotonou to eat grilled pork or "hanlan", more traditionally associated with Porto-Novo. 500-1200CFA. (updated May 2017 | edit)
- La Galette à Sucre , Route de L'Aéroport, Cotonou (next to the Turkish Airlines office). Daily 06: 00-23: 00. A bakery and brunch place that is always full. It offers a variety of breads and cakes, often with locally sourced products (some of which are also sold here). Affordable crepes, omelettes, and sandwiches are available if you want to sit down. 500-2500 CFA. (updated February 2017 | edit)
Middle range
- Ci'gusta , Rue 449 (Near Pharmacie Camp Guezo), ☏ [96 31 01 01]. Daily 08: 00-23: 00. Outpost in Cotonou of a chain serving Italian-style ice cream, paninis and pizza throughout the Global South, Ci'gusta quickly became the city's premier ice cream spot since its opening. A welcome respite from the equatorial sun, though it does get crowded. 1000-6000 CFA. (Updated June 2017 | edit)
- L'Aubergeade , 76 rue des Cheminots (On the main street of Jonquet bars). L'Aubergeade, a French-run restaurant with elegant retro décor, serves African and European dishes in large portions, especially grilled meat and fish. There's a smart cocktail menu here too - overall, great value for the frank. 3000-5000 CFA. (Updated June 2017 | edit)
- La Cabane du Pêcheur , Route des Pêches, Fidjrossé (7 km west of Fidjrossé fin pavé on Route des Pêches), ☏ [97 21 08 78]. Tue-Sun 11: 00-23: 00. An oasis away from the center along the beach, La Cabane du Pecheur is Cotonou's best place for seafood. There is a great selection of fish and other seafood, usually caught fresh and grilled in a style that will satisfy both African and European palates. Take a 4x4 if possible. 5000-7000 CFA / red. (updated February 2017 | edit)
- tangerine , Route de l'Aéroport (Next to the Air France office), ☏ [21 30 14 57]. Daily 11: 00-02: 00. An incredible place for Lebanese food, with a significant Lebanese clientele. Fantastic hummus, baba ghanouj and other Lebanese specialties, freshly baked bread, perfectly grilled meats and more at reasonable prices. Please note that alcohol is not served. 2000-6000 CFA / main. (Updated June 2017 | edit)
- Maquis du Port , Boulevard de la Marina (Ganhi, avant l'Hotel Azalaï), ☏ [21 31 14 15]. Daily 11:00 to 2:00. Maquis du Port offers excellent West African dishes at high-end prices. With its seaside location, you can count on fresh fish and it's open late. 5000-7000 CFA / principal. (updated February 2017 | edit)
- Pili-Pili , Boulevard Saint-Michel (On the second von heading south from Carrefour Saint Michel), ☏ [21 31 29 32]. Every day 12: 00-16: 00, 19: 00-23: 30. Pili serves classic grilled meats: chicken, guinea fowl (a bigger, uglier and tastier chicken), beef and fish, everything with a generous portion of peppers next to. There are salads, side dishes, and wines, but that's not why you're here. 4500-9000 CFA / plate. (Updated June 2017 | edit)
- Shamiana , Haie Vive (In the von next to the Tresor Publique), ☏ [97 97 09 33]. Daily 11: 30-23: 30. Probably the best restaurant in Cotonou. It serves a wide variety of Indian dishes from all over the subcontinent and also has some Chinese-style dishes. Good luck finding a nicer, more attractive person to take your order than the guy who runs this place - he's a gem that will make sure you have as much or as little flavor as you want. 4000-8000 FCFA / net. (Updated February 2017 | edit)
Waste
- Bangkok Terrasse , Rue 449 (Quartier Camp Guèzo), ☏ [21 30 37 86]. Tu-Su every day from 11:00 to 23:00. Believe it or not, Cotonou even has decent Thai. With the local preference for spicy dishes, Southeast Asian food really fits in well here. Wide variety of curries, soups, noodles and rice available. 5000-15000 CFA / network. (updated February 2017 | edit)
- Rousski Dom , Haie Vive (in the von next to the Tresor Publique), ☏ [21 30 37 86]. Daily 12: 00-23: 00. As a former Marxist-Leninist state, Benin cultivated ties with Mother Russia, sending students on cultural exchanges and building Stalinist monuments around the city. Those days are long past, but Slavic gastronomy still survives in this elegant outpost, which also boasts a well-stocked vodka bar. 6000-15000 CFA / network. (updated February 2017 | edit)
Drink and go out
Cotonou doesn't have a lot of nightlife, but all of the establishments listed below are recommended, even if they are a bit geared towards expats. After all, most of the drinking in Benin is made in buvettes local, open-air bars where everything you need to pass a good time is a few plastic tables and chairs, a large speaker and a large beer: Beninoise, or for the most resistant, a Guinness or Awooyo. Anyone looking for the local color should ask around and head to the nearest ramshackle watering hole for the experience. However, Cotonou is not one-dimensional, and those looking for diversity should visit the places listed below.
Coffees
- 1 Café Fondation Zinsou , Boulevard Saint-Michel, ☏ [96 71 42 70]. Cotonou is very short on the kind of coffee shops where hipsters gather to bury their noses in their laptops. This is the closest thing to that, and probably the only place you can find iced coffee. The colonial nuances are quirky, but they always have a great collection of African songs and books for sale. Also offers happy hour on Fridays from 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm. 1000-3000 CFA / drink, food 4000-7000 CFA / main course. (Updated February 2017 | edit)
pubs
- 2 Djunta , Fidjrossé, end pavé. Most come for live music on Friday nights, when the house band plays Afrobeat, jazz, and even 1950s rock and roll until the wee hours of the morning. But it's nice to spend any night of the week for a cheap beer on the beach, under the glare of kitschy Christmas lights. 500-2000 CFA / drink. (updated February 2017 | edit)
- 3 Drink City , L'esplanade du Stade de l'Amitié. There are countless buvettes in the complex surrounding the Stade de l'Amitié, so you really can't go wrong, but a good option is Drink City, mainly due to the draft beer that is available. There are even rumors that they have had Guinness on tap, a true rarity, in addition to the more common Castel. Roast chicken and grilled fish are available for the hungry. 500-2000 CFA / drink. (Updated June 2017 | edit)
- 4 The Maison Blanche , Gbegamey (In the second von east of La Poste Gbegamey). 24/7. Maison Blanche, a sprawling multi-story complex that includes a rooftop nightclub and lounge, is one of the most comfortable places to enjoy beers at local buvette prices. 500-1500 CFA / drink. (Updated June 2017 | edit)
- 5 Le Livingstone , Haie Vive (On the main strip of Haie Vive), ☏ [21 30 27 58]. 10: 00-02: 00. The main place for expats to hang out in Cotonou. Come for a happy hour on Saturday night (6pm - 6pm) to order a tower of beer and watch the yovos get rowdy. 1500-5000CFA / drink. (updated May 2017 | edit)
- 6 Le Parking , Fidjrosse, Place Calvaire. Part buvette, part funky art installation, Le Parking is a neat corner in Fidjrosse. You'll see why they called it Le Parking once you've arrived - one of the artists here has repurposed an old VW pickup to make it part of the accessories. 500-1500 CFA / drink. (updated May 2017 | edit)
- 7 MAD room , Haie Vive (Pave Fin Haie Vive), ☏ [66 21 89 89]. Daily 09: 00-03: 00. Tucked away at the end of the Haie Vive strip, MAD Lounge is a hookah bar popular with twentysomethings, who come dressed to impress. It's the kind of place that Trace Urban has on at a good volume, but it still feels relaxing thanks to the airy thatched-roof setup and plush, comfortable furnishings. Good place to start before a night of dancing. 1500-6000 CFA / drink. (Updated June 2017 | edit)
Music venues and nightclubs
- 8 Africa Sound City , Kindonou (On the von opposite Pharmacie Kindonou, one block from the street). Probably the most important live music venue in Cotonou. It's not very big, but there's a good-sized, professional-looking stage in the back and a bar full of beer crates in the front. It has an eclectic list of reservations. The kind of place with the portraits of Fela Kuti and Thomas Sankara on the walls. Entry up to 2000 CFA, 500-2000 CFA / drink. (updated May 2017 | edit)
- 9 Code bar , Tri-Postal (just after the airport roundabout, before the Erevan hypermarket), ☏ [96 90 10 10]. Sun-Thu 18: 00-02: 00, Fri Sa 18: 00-dawn. Code Bar has been the hippest place to party for both locals and visitors since it opened. It is not a club, it is more of an open air design and lounge type cabanas. Enjoy bottle service or cocktails and take a walk on the dance floor to the mix of African rhythms and hip-hop. It also hosts a popular happy hour barbecue on Thursdays. 1500-3000 CFA / drink. (updated February 2017 | edit)
- 10 Le Yes Papa , Place de l'Étoile Rouge (From the roundabout, follow the sign for Sikacodji and it is on the left.). It is a collective of local artists that hosts concerts on weekends: salsa Thursdays, Reggae Fridays, Jazz Saturdays, although the program may vary. Get in touch with local Rastafarians in the upstairs lounge. 1000 CFA entry, 500-2000 CFA / drink. (updated February 2017 | edit)
- 11 sanctuary , Cadjehoun (Near the main traffic lights of Cadjehoun ("le feu à Cadjehoun")). It seems a bit out of place - like a Hard Rock Cafe in a run down African city. Nonetheless, you will find plenty of blues electric guitar music and drink prices geared towards toubab's wealthy clientele. 3000-6000 CFA / drink. (updated May 2017 | edit)
Sleep
- 1 Hotel du Lac. ☎ 229 21 33 19 19, fax: 229 21 33 02 22, ✉: [email protected]. Excellent location, reasonable prices, free Wifi, with a nice pool.Price: From $ 100.
- Hotel Benin Marina, Boulevard de la Marina BP: 01-1901, Cotonou (in the Haie Vive neighborhood, west of the old port of Cotonou). ☎ 229 21 38 09 44, 229 21 30 96 08, fax: 229 21 30 11 55, 229 21 30 83 25, ✉: [email protected]. The hotel has 200 rooms, swimming pools, tennis courts and a golf course.