Dusit (ดุสิต) is a district of the city of Bangkok, is a very green area of the city with European style architecture and the political center of Thailand.
To know
The development of this area dates back to the early years of the last century, when King Rama V built the Dusit Palace, a complex of buildings and residences built to escape the heat and chaos of the Grand Palace. Today the seat of national power, there are various political institutions, international organizations and royal palaces scattered throughout the district.
King Rama V was the first Thai monarch to visit Europe. He was very impressed with what he saw and came back with some drastic ideas to transform Bangkok and prepare it for the 20th century. Rattanakosin was a stuffy district with many waterways as opposed to Europe where wide boulevards dominated cities like Paris and London. The King therefore decided that most of the original canals of Rattanakosin should have disappeared to make way for carriage roads. This was only the beginning; King Rama V began to design a district from scratch that would become the "new royal city", with large boulevards and a touch of European: Dusit.
The best example of this modernization process is the Dusit Palace, a huge complex of royal residences and palaces in different styles, some of them European style. There Anantasamakhom Throne Room in Italian Renaissance style dominates everyone and in front of it, in the center of a wide avenue, is the equestrian statue of King Rama V, embellished with garlands during the Chulalongkorn Day, October 23rd. King Rama V is still highly revered by Thais and his modernization strategy is thought to have saved Siam from western colonization.
Today it is the seat of the central power of the country with the almost total presence of government-decision-making institutions. Palazzo Dusit is the National Assembly, the parliament. To the south lies the Government House, a Venetian Gothic style building used mostly during state ceremonies and can only be visited once a year, on January 9, during Children's Day. The Chitralada Palace, the official residence of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej, is located east of the Royal Palace.
A good day to experience the district's grandeur is December 2nd, when Dusit hosts the annual ceremony Gathering of colors. Hundreds of Royal Guard officers swear allegiance to the King with a parade around Suan Amporn near the statue of King Rama V.
How to orient yourself
Dusit: full screen map.How to get
Dusit is not very easy to reach by public transport. The "Chao Phraya Express Boat" express ferry service covers the district but from the pier there is still a lot of walking to reach the Dusit Palace. There are many buses but we already know how complicated it is. The simplest option is the taxi.
Dusit is reached using the express ferry service Chao Phraya Express Boat. The pier Thewet it is an excellent entry point to the southwest area from which it takes 20 minutes on foot to reach the Dusit palace.
Orange flag ferries connect Thewet with the pier Tha Chang (if coming from the Grand Palace) and Phra Arthit pier if coming from Khao San Road. From the center you can take the skytrain to the station Saphan Taksin where you change for the express ferry. A run from Sathorn (Taksin) in Silom, up to Thewet it takes about 40 minutes and costs 13 baht. You can take any express ferry as Thewet is one of the most important stops although the yellow line is the fastest.
There are also other piers in Dusit but they are far from the tourist spots.
By bus
If you arrive from the old city, take the bus 70 with air conditioning, it arrives directly at Palazzo Dusit. Go up to Sanam Luang if you are around the Grand Palace or go up to Ratchadamnoen Klang Road if you are close to Khao San Road. Go down right outside the Royal Elephant National Museum on Uthong Nai Road. To be sure it is best to ask a local where to get off before you are too far away.
From the center you take the skytrain to the Victory Monument, the station Victory Monument, from where you can take the bus 515 which goes directly to the Dusit Palace passing Ratchawithi Road. If it is too difficult you can take a taxi.
How to get around
What see
- 1 [link not working]Dusit Palace (พระราชวัง ดุสิต).
09:30-16:00. Called New Royal City, Dusit Park, Dusit Garden, or simply Dusit, is a complex of royal palaces and residences south of the Dusit district. The palace was commissioned by King Rama V, the first Thai monarch to visit Europe. He was very impressed with the royal parks and palaces he visited: spacious, green, peaceful and beautiful, as opposed to the Grand Palace which was filled with buildings for his many wives, children and servants and which blocked the flow of air to the interior of the Grand Palace, heating it beyond belief. To replace it, the King built the Dusit Palace.
09:30-16:00. Called New Royal City, Dusit Park, Dusit Garden, or simply Dusit, is a complex of royal palaces and residences south of the Dusit district. The palace was commissioned by King Rama V, the first Thai monarch to visit Europe. He was very impressed with the royal parks and palaces he visited: spacious, green, peaceful and beautiful, as opposed to the Grand Palace which was filled with buildings for his many wives, children and servants and which blocked the flow of air to the interior of the Grand Palace, heating it beyond belief. To replace it, the King built the Dusit Palace.- The main structure is the Villa Vimanmek, and is said to be the largest golden teak residence in the world and home to King Rama V. The ticket costs 100 baht and is bought on the northwest side of the garden or you can enter for free if you still have the Grand Palace ticket. (valid for one week). With the same ticket you can visit all the museums inside the palace walls except the Anantasamakhom Throne Room and the National Museum of the Royal Elephant which costs 50 baht. The same dress rules of the Grand Palace are also valid here. Before entering each museum, you must also leave things in a locker, free of charge everywhere except at Villa Vimanmek. If you have little money then it is advisable to go to another museum first and leave things there. The last guided tour of the villa starts at 3.15pm. Some of the smaller museums close at 3:30 pm. If you want to see everything, you need a full day. When buying the ticket, make sure you also take a map as the perimeter of the garden is vast and difficult to navigate.
Vimanmek Palace Museum
The residential halls that can be visited with the same ticket are part of the Vimanmek Palace Museum.
- 2 Vimanmek Palace (พระที่นั่ง วิมาน เมฆ), ☎ 66 2 628 6300. It is said to be the largest gilded teak building in the world and was the home of King Rama V in the 20th century. It was originally the summer residence on Ko Si Chang Island but was then moved to Bangkok piece by piece in 1901. A guided tour is a must and reveals all about the life of King Rama V and his collection of late royal objects 19th century arranged inside the building. Thanks to the attempt to modernize Thailand along the European line, here you can see the first Thai indoor baths, the first typewriter with Thai characters and some of Thailand's first portrait paintings.
- 3 The Throne Room Abhisek Dusit (Support Museum). Built in 1904, this beautiful hall was originally used for royal meetings and banquets. The exteriors are unique in that they are a mixture of Victorian and Islamic styles. Today it houses much of the Queen Sirikit Support Museum, where artifacts created by skilled craftsmen from the countryside are displayed. Some of the exhibits are bags, baskets, vases, jewelery, figurines and silk, all created using traditional techniques. Her Majesty Queen Sirikit created this foundation to preserve and revitalize these traditional techniques as their demand decreased significantly with the new modern Thai society.
- His Majesty King Bhumibol Photo Museum No. 2 (Residential hall of His Royal Highness Prince Bussaban Bua-Phan). In addition to being King of Thailand (who has been deceased for about a year), His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej was also a photographer. Some of his work is on display in this building that was once used by HRH Princess Bussaban Bua-Phan, a sister of King Rama V. The collection also includes photos of the King playing and others showing Her Majesty the Queen. Sirikit and other members of the royal family.
- His Majesty King Bhumibol Photo Museum No. 1 (Residential hall of Her Royal Highness Princess Arun-Wadi). This two-story building was built by King Rama V for his sister Princess Arun-Wadi. The residence was then transformed into a photographic museum with photos taken by the recently deceased (13 October 2016) His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej on display. The photos here show projects the King supported to improve the conditions of people living in the poorest areas of the country.
- Ancient Clock Museum (Residential hall of Her Royal Highness Princess Puang Soi Sa-Ang). Two-story brick building that King Rama V built for his sister His Royal Highness Puang Soi Sa-Ang. Next to the other three residential halls built for the other sisters. The residence was then transformed into a museum displaying old clocks and instruments for measuring time. The ground floor has 19th century antique clocks from Great Britain, Germany and the United States. The upstairs rooms contain art collections, royal tributes and souvenirs of King Rama V.
- Textile and silk museum (Residential hall of Her Royal Highness Princess Orathai Thep Kanya). This is the fourth residence that King Rama V had built for the sisters and is slightly larger than the other three. It was the residence of Her Royal Highness Princess Orathai Thep Kanya and today contains an exhibition of rare fabrics and fabrics used during the reign of King Rama IV and V.
- Ban Chiang Prehistoric Pottery Museum (Residential hall Krom Luang Vorased Thasuda). This small brick building was the home of Princess Bootri, a daughter of King Rama III whom King Rama V considered his grandmother, as she took care of the growth of Princess Phra Thepsirin, mother of King Rama V. Today there is an exhibit of prehistoric pottery from the Ban Chiang archaeological site in northern Isaan, discovered in 1966 by Stephan Young and considered one of the most important prehistoric sites in Southeast Asia. The artifacts on display are from a civilization that existed between 3600 BC and 200 AD.
- Hall of high-ranking objects N˚1 (Suan Farang Kangsai Residential Hall). Official residence of Phra Raja Jaya Dara Rasmi, daughter of the Prince of Chiang Mai and a consort of King Rama V. The building was completed in 1909 and today has some items of King Rama V on display, including some oil paintings of around 100 years. Other objects on display are vases from all over the world (China, Germany and the United Kingdom) and old European oil lamps.
- Photography Museum of Royal Ceremonies (Suan Hong Residential Hall). This two-story wooden building is the first one you will come across upon entering from the north entrance. It was the residence of Queen Savang Vadhana, the grandmother of King Rama V. Today it houses an exhibition of photos and models of the boats used during the Royal Lance Ceremony. If you want to see these boats you can visit the National Royal Lance Museum in Thonburi.
- Royal Carriage Museum (Royal Carriage Buildings Nos. 1 and 3). During the modernization of Thailand following the European line, King Rama V covered the traditional canals and turned them into streets so that they could be used by carriages. It has been recorded that in 1925 there were 2,698 carriages in use. These buildings display 23 royal carriages used since the late 19th century. The museum was opened in 1991 for HM Queen Sirikit's 60th birthday and is the only one where you can take pictures.
- Hall of high-ranking objects N˚ 2. Another building that houses a large collection of royal objects. On display is a royal litter with three pediments and an adorned roof and other litter used by the ladies of the court.
- His Majesty King Bhumibol's Collection Museum No. 2 (Suan Bua Residential Hall). The official residence of Princess Saisavali Bhiromya, the royal consort of King Chulalongkorn. On display is a collection of statues representing the Buddha, photographs of King Chulalongkorn's reign and offerings that the King received during various official state visits to other countries.
- Presentation room (Suan Bua Plew). This room contains a multimedia show on the history of Palazzo Dusit, giving a general view of the different residential rooms and their performances, so you can decide which one you want to see. There is also a photography exhibition where the Vimanmek Palace is also seen illuminated at night.
- Pottery from the Shipwreck Museum (Tamnak Ho residential hall). Tamnak Ho is a residence built in 1903 for the wedding of Prince Paribatra Sukhumbandhu, the prince of Nakhon Sawan and son of King Rama V. It was built on the grounds of Bang Khun Phrom Palace but when the Bank of Thailand appropriated it, it moved the building in Sukhotai Palace in 1985. In 1998 there was another move when His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej dismantled the building and brought it to the Dusit Palace. Today the hall displays pottery from the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya period, recovered from a submerged shipwreck in the Gulf of Thailand in 1976, off the coast of Rayong and Chantaburi. These vessels are thought to have been Chinese and Vietnamese trading ships of the 15th and 18th centuries.
- 4 His Majesty King Bhumibol's Collection Museum No. 1 (Suan Si Rue Du Residential Room). Official residence of Her Majesty Queen Saovabha and Her Royal Highness Valaya Alongkorn, aunt of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. The Princess Mother also lived here during her childhood. On display are offerings and objects that King Bhumibol Adulyadej received for the 50th anniversary of his accession to the throne in 1996.
- 5 Museum of His Majesty King Bhumibol's Oil Paintings (Suan Kularb Residential Room). Residence of His Royal Highness Prince Asdang Dejavudh, one of the sons of King Rama V and Queen Saovabha. The prince lived here until his death in 1924. Today it is a museum containing the oil paintings made by His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej.
Entrance with separate ticket
- 6 Anantasamakhom Throne Room (พระที่นั่ง อนันต สมาคม) (behind the Throne Room Abhisek Dusit), ☎ 66 2 628 6300, 66 2 628 5119.
50 baht. Mon-Sun 09: 30-16: 00, closed on national holidays. This neo-classical-Renaissance style building is built in Italian marble and was commissioned by King Rama V in 1906 with the intention of using it as a hall for royal assemblies and receptions and was finished under the reign of King Rama VI. Inside the dome you can see frescoes depicting royal activities in use during the reigns of Kings Rama I up to VI. Currently the building is used for royal ceremonies and houses artifacts and art objects built with traditional Thai techniques. - 7 National Museum of the Royal Elephant (Changton National Museum), Uthong Nai Road (Close to the National Assembly within the walls of the Dusit Palace), ☎ 66 2 282 3336. 5 baht. Mon-Sun 09: 30-16: 00, closed on national holidays. This building was used as a stable for the royal white elephant and since 1988 it has been transformed into a museum dedicated to these rare creatures, considered sacred in Thailand because an elephant with six tusks appeared in a dream to the Buddha's mother after conceiving her child. The museum describes the history of Thai white elephants and the characteristics they must have to be considered "royal white elephants".
50 baht. Parks and monuments
- 8 Dusit Zoo (สวนสัตว์ดุสิต), 71 Rama V Road (Between the two palaces Dusit and Chitralada), ☎ 66 2 281 2000. 100 baht. Mon-Sun 08: 00-18: 00. This zoo is a good destination for families with children. It is very green and lush with flowers, trees and ponds. You can use the skid or ride the train for an additional cost of 60 baht. There are many playgrounds and picnic areas as well as restaurants. Of course there are also animals like giraffes, zebras, deer, hippos, elephants and tigers.
- 9 Equestrian statue of King Rama V (พระบรม รูป ทรง ม้า), Uthong Nai Road (At the intersection of Uthong Nai and Si Ayutthaya Road). Free. The entrance to the Dusit Palace is a huge highway with a statue of King Rama V (Chulalongkorn) riding a stallion in the center, completed in 1908 and funded with public donations from Thai citizens grateful to the king for modernizing the country. Every 5th December, the Gathering of Colors is held here.
Temples
- 10 Wat Benchamabophit (วัด เบญจมบพิตร, also known as the Marble Temple), Yes Ayutthaya Road (At the intersection of Si Ayutthaya and Rama V Road), ☎ 66 2 281 2501. 20 baht. Mon-Sun 06: 00-18: 00. The newest of the famous temples in Bangkok was built during the reign of King Rama V employing European ecclesiastical details, such as stained glass, and contains a collection of Buddha images. It is the best place for the morning food offering.
- 11 Wat Intharawihan (วัด อินทรวิหาร), 114 Wisut Kasat Road (From Khao San Road, walk 1km north along Samsen Road, then turn right onto Samsen Soi 10 after the intersection with Wisut Kasat Road), ☎ 66 2 628 5552. Free. Mon-Sun 08: 30-20: 00. Temple famous for the Standing Buddha, or Big Buddha (Luang Pho To), 32 meters tall statue covered with 24,000 pieces of Italian golden mosaic. The Buddha image bun contains a relic of the Buddha from Sri Lanka. Keep in mind that this temple is a famous place for gem scams, so ignore anyone who approaches by offering a free tuk-tuk ride or offering precious gems.
Museums and galleries
- 12 Bank of Thailand Bank Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์ ธนาคาร แห่ง ประเทศไทย), 273 Samsen Road (Inside the Bang Khun Phrom Palace in the same area as the Bank of Thailand), ☎ 66 2 283 5353. Free. Mon-Fri 09: 30-12: 00, 13: 30-16: 30. The museum must be contacted at least one week in advance. The museum building is in the Bang Khum Phrom Palace, a residence of His Royal Highness Prince Boriphat Sukhumphan, the 33rd son of King Rama V (Chulalongkorn). After 1932, the palace was used as a government office until 1945 when it became the headquarters of the Bank of Thailand. The museum was founded in 1982 and contains 14 rooms on two floors. The first floor specializes in the history of Thai currency from the 1st century, while the second floor is dedicated to the 60th anniversary of the Bank of Thailand.
- 13 Numthong Gallery, Room 109, Bangkok Co-op Housing Building, 1129/29 Thoet Damri Road (Slightly north of the intersection of Thoet Damri Road and Nakhon Chaisi Road), ☎ 66 2 243 4326. Mon-Sat 11: 00-18: 00. Art gallery showcasing some of the hottest Thai artists. The interiors are very white to ensure a better view of the paintings. Some artists associated with this gallery are Niti Wattuya, Kamin Lertchaiprasert and Natee Utarit.
- 14 Museum of printing (พิพิธภัณฑ์ หนังสือพิมพ์ ไทย), Nakhon Ratchasima Road (In front of Suan Dusit Rajabhat University), ☎ 66 2 669 7124. Free. Mon-Fri 09: 00-17: 00.
- 15 Suan Dusit Art Gallery, Nakhon Ratchasima Road (Inside Suan Dusit Rajabhat University), ☎ 66 2 243 9051, 66 2 243 9055.
- 16 [link not working]Floral Culture Museum, 315 Samsen Rd. Soi 28, Yaek Ongkarak 13, Dusit, Bangkok 10300, Thailand, ☎ 66 2 669 3633, @[email protected].
What to do
One of the two can be seen traditional Thai dances daily at Palazzo Dusit. The show starts at 10:00 and 14:00 with free admission.
- 1 Royal Thai Equestrian Club (ราชตฤณมัย สมาคม), 183 Phitsanulok Road, ☎ 66 2 280 0020, 66 2 280 0029. 50-100 baht. Every two Sundays 12: 30-18: 00. Horse races are held here under the royal patronage.
Shopping
There isn't much to buy in Dusit, but some shops might be interesting.
- 1 Naga House, 315 Ongkharak Soi 13, Sam Sen Soi 28 (If arriving from Thewet Pier, walk north along Sam Sen Road then turn right onto Sam Sen Soi 28, also known as Soi Ongkarak. After a while, turn left onto Ongkarak Soi 13 and continue straight ahead.), ☎ 66 2 669 3416. Antique shop located in a beautiful 1920's teak house. Lots of furniture including silver baskets from Northern Thailand, Chinese teak tables and Burmese lacquerware.
- 2 Thewet market (ตลาด เทเวศร์), Krung Kasem Road (Opposite the Thewet pier). Mon-Sun 08: 00-18: 00. Plant pot market located along the Phadung Krung canal. Many tropical plants for sale in addition to seeds. When buying, it is advisable to check with the authorities if they can be exported to Italy, but even if you don't buy anything it's still a nice walk.
How to have fun
There is no nightlife in Dusit. If you are satisfied with resting while drinking lemonade, just contact the guest houses.
Where to eat
Dusit is not a district where you can find fancy restaurants even though the river is a nice location. The guest houses serve good Thai food.
Moderate prices
- 1 Kaloang Seafood, 2 Si Ayutthaya Road (In the alley near the National Library, overlooking the river), ☎ 66 2 281 9228. 200 baht. Mon-Sun 10: 00-22: 00. Typical off-the-beaten-path restaurant with simple plastic chairs and simple interiors. The fish dishes are delicious, cheap and you have a beautiful view of the river. The favorite recipe of the locals is the mixed fish dish and you can also try the Yam Pla Duk Foo which is a grilled fish salad or the Larb Goong, a shrimp salad with banana flowers.
- 2 Krua Apsorn (ครัว อัปสร), 503-505 Sam Sen Road (From Thewet pier, turn left onto Sam Sen Road, pass the National Library, then the canal and you will be on the left), ☎ 66 2 668 8788. 100-250 baht. Mon-Fri 10: 30-19: 30; Sat 10: 30-18: 00. Excellent restaurant with authentic Thai dishes prepared in traditional style. Although it seems simple at first glance, in 2006 it won "best restaurant" on the Bangkok Post and has served members of the royal family. The staff entertain themselves by watching TV novels and the kids run around like they are in kindergarten, but other than that the food is great and a must try recipe is the crab omelette.
Average prices
- 3 In Love (known as Chon-Ngern or Silver Spoon), 2/1 Krung Kasem Road (Thewet pier), ☎ 66 2 281 9228. 400 baht. Mon-Sun 18: 00-01: 00. Elegant restaurant with a breathtaking view of the Rama VIII bridge and the river. As the name suggests, many Thais come here to impress their beloved and the atmosphere helps if you have half a mind to follow the trend. Try the Plaa Krapong Neung Manao, steamed sea bass with lemon.
Where stay
Dusit's wide, busy boulevards do not make this area very attractive for sleeping. Many budget travelers sleep in nearby Khao San Road while the more moneyed in Sukhumvit. Siam Square satisfies both requests. If you still want to stay in Dusit to try something different there are a few places near Thewet pier.
Moderate prices
- 1 Shanti Lodge, 37 Yes Ayutthaya Soi 16 (You walk towards the river from the intersection of Sam Sen and Si Ayutthaya), ☎ 66 2 281 2497. 400-750 baht, dorms 200 baht per person. Check-out: 10:00. Decorated as if it were a tropical oasis and surrounded by plants and trees it is a quiet place in the middle of a large metropolis. The location is ideal, close to the river and Rattanakosin. Very basic rooms, a massage center and a restaurant with guest house prices open from 07:30 to 23:00. Good Wi-Fi although not everywhere, the best reception is in the common area and in the restaurant.
- 2 Sri Ayutthaya Guest House, 23/11 Yes Ayutthaya Soi 14 (Thewet pier), ☎ 66 2 282 5942. 500-700 baht. The best budget hotel in Dusit. The atmosphere is cozy and the building is a simple house made of wood. Very quiet located in an area neighborhood with local families. The rooms are simple and there is a restaurant on the ground floor serving Thai, Western and vegetarian food.
- 3 Suan Dusit Place Hotel, 295 Nakhon Ratchasima Road (Inside the Suan Dusit Rajabhat University complex, at the intersection of Nakhon Ratchasima and Ratchawithi), ☎ 66 2 241 7571. 900 baht. Very simple but clean hotel and probably the closest to the Vimanmek Palace. Mainly intended for locals, teachers, students and convention goers who want to stay inside the university. For this reason they speak little English even if they try. The restaurant serves Thai food and is cheap.
- 4 Tavee Guesthouse, 83 Yes Ayutthaya Soi 14 (You walk towards the river from the intersection of Sam Sen and Si Ayutthaya), ☎ 66 2 280 1447. 300-450 baht. Cheap, clean and tidy hotel. Very nice common area with wooden furniture and a restaurant open 24 hours.
How to keep in touch
Post office
- 1 Dusit post office, 954 Nakhon Chai Si Road, ☎ 66 2 243 0515. Mon-Fri 08: 00-17: 00, Sat 08: 00-12: 00.
Internet
- 2 National Library (หอสมุดแห่งชาติ), Sam Sen Road, ☎ 66 2 281 5212. free. Mon-Fri 09: 00-19: 30; Sat-Sun 09: 00-17: 00. Internet access for visitors is limited to one hour and you must fill out a form, present your passport and leave a deposit. Games, chats and USB sticks cannot be used.
