| Kurokawa onsen (黒 川 温泉) | |
 | |
| Information | |
| Country |  Japan |
|---|---|
| Region | Kumamoto prefecture |
| Location | |
 33 ° 4 ′ 42 ″ N 131 ° 8 ′ 29 ″ E | |
| Touristic site | |
Kurokawa onsen is a village in the Kumamoto prefecture To Kyushu, one of the most famous places in Japan for hot baths. It is located north of mount Aso, in the municipality of Minami-oguni.
Understand
This small town, located in the middle of Kyūshū and far from any big city, is made up of about thirty ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) offering onsen (温泉, hot baths) to their visitors (staying overnight or not). It is better to devote a whole day to it (going there after Mount Aso and leaving at the end of the day will be too short). The leaves are magnificent there in autumn.
Note that there is neither combini (mini-market) or cash dispenser in this village!
To go
As is often the case on the island of Kyushu, the car is by far the most convenient form of transportation. It is nevertheless possible to reach Kurokawa Onsen by public transport (train and bus), at the cost of a very rigorous organization.
By bus
The Kyūshū Sanko bus company offers a few daily coaches that run between Kumamoto (熊 本) to the west and Beppu (別 府) on the east coast, and passing through Kurokawa (黒 川 温泉) and speak mount Aso (South). The Kumamoto Tourist Office can help you reserve seats (not compulsory, but better to take precautions). The site (in Japanese only) shows the timetables for the three buses going from Kumamoto to Kurokawa (3 h 30 about): 8 h 04 - 10 h 44, 9 h 04 - 12 h 26 and12 h 15 - 15 h 37. In the other way, only one bus leaves directly from Beppu: 8 h 09 - 10 h 35.
- Kyūshū Sanko bus
The bus stop is on route 442 and is within walking distance from the village center. There are also buses coming from Fukuoka.
By bus and train
Another possibility is to take the train to Kumamoto to the Aso station (covered by the JR Pass), then take the above bus between Mount Aso and Kurokawa (50 min):
- you could for example leave early in the morning from Kumamoto, take the bus from Aso station to mount Aso, see the latter and hike there for a few hours, then take the last bus (not to be missed!) to Kurokawa to spend the night. Note that the fumes from Mount Aso can prevent you from visiting it and thwart your finely tuned schedule.
- you could also stay a day at Mount Aso and sleep around, then spend another day (and possibly another night) in Kurokawa.
Circulate
The center of the village is quite small and you can get around on foot. If you spend the night in a ryokan, you can walk around wearing the yukata (light kimono) loaned by your establishment. Some ryokan can also transport you by car, which is useful for reaching the most distant establishments (up to 30-40 min walk go from the center).
Do
Kurokawa Onsen is all about relaxation, and bathing in particular. The establishments reserve certain baths for those spending the night there, the others being open to all. Some are particularly beautiful, such as that of Yamamizuki by the river. The baths can be mixed, or separate women and men (the baths can alternate according to the hours).
If you want to test several onsen (which day visitors will surely do), you can pay entry to each of them, or buy a pass for three onsen at any ryokan at 1 200 JPY valid for 6 months (you can buy more than one). If you are already staying in a ryokan, count on 24 h to test those of your accommodation plus those of the past, eat, walk a little, all at an idle pace. If you come for the day, don't forget your towel!
Housing
Accommodation is not given (count at least 14 000 JPY per person, with two meals), but this will allow you to live a unique experience, far from the hubbub of the rest of Japan, with a staff that takes care of you. You can enjoy the establishment's baths as much as you want, but nothing prevents you from going to try others (section Do).
English is not spoken at all establishments, and some booking sites (especially the few that accept single-person booking) are only in Japanese.
- Kurokawa Tourism Office – This website provides the list of establishments.
- 1 Okyakuya (御 客 屋) ,
81-967-44-0454, fax : 81-967-44-0551 
from 13 800 JPY/ pers.. – This magnificent all-wood establishment is the oldest in Kurokawa. It offers private and shared baths, indoor and outdoor. It welcomes solo travelers, but booking only on a Japanese-language site will block most non-native visitors. Having dinner kaiseki (several options possible) and breakfast are included. - 2 Yamamizuki (山 み ず 木) – If it is a little far from the center, this establishment has a magnificent rotenburo (outdoor onsen) by the river and surrounded by trees (whose colors are superb in autumn) which non-resident visitors can access.
from Around
- Mount Aso (阿蘇 山) (just under an hour by bus or car) – Its smoking crater and its hikes.
- Kumamoto (熊 本) (on the west coast, is at 2 h car or 3 h 30 by public transport) – The capital of the prefecture.
- West side, you can join Beppu and Yufuin, also known for their baths.
- Fukuoka (further north on Kyūshū) – The most important city of the island.
