| Naoshima | |
 | |
Location  | |
Coat of arms and flag   | |
| State | Japan |
|---|---|
| Region | Shikoku |
| Capital | Takamatsu |
| Surface | 14.22 km² |
| Inhabitants | 3.125 (2016) |
| Tourism site | |
| Institutional website | |
Naoshima (直 島) is an island of the Shikoku on the Seto Inland Sea.
To know
The island is famous for its collection of contemporary art galleries and exhibitions. It is possible to see all the sites of this island in one day, but according to the advice of the locals it is best to enjoy the island as a whole at your own pace. There are indeed beaches and mountains, but it is suggested that you bring a bathing suit, sunscreen and walking shoes if you are interested in the sun.
Geographical notes
Naoshima is a small Japanese island located in inland sea of Seto, between the islands of Honshū is Shikoku. Although the island is much closer to Honshu, administratively it belongs to the Kagawa prefecture.
Background
The first settlements were made in the Tsumuura fishing port, which is now quite small. The most populated area of the island is Honmura (本村) which was created as a coastal town of a castle during the period of the war between the provinces (1467-1568).
Culture and traditions
There is a large elderly population on the island. Be considerate and greet them warmly.
Territories and tourist destinations
Naoshima: full screen map.Urban centers
How to get
Naoshima can be reached by boat from Uno to Tamano (Honshu) and Takamatsu (Shikoku). Naoshima has three ports Miyanoura, Honmura and the port of Seto. Most of the services go to Miyanoura.
Miyanoura, the port you are likely to arrive at, is now the hub of travelers and transport to the island, but still remains a quiet coastal town.
- 1 Port of Miyanoura (宮 浦 港 miyanoura-kō). Ferries depart approximately 13 times a day from One (20 min, 280 yen) and about 5 times from Takamatsu (50 min, ¥ 510); passenger boats also leave Uno twice a day (15 minutes, JPY 280) and high-speed boats (for passengers) once from Takamatsu (25 min, JPY 1,200). This port includes 56 luggage lockers of various sizes. Free internet access on two computers is available from 8:30 to 18:00. Free WiFi is also available at the port terminal.
- 2 port of Honmura (本村 港 honmura-kō), ８４３ Miyanoura, ☎ 81 87-892-3372. Passenger ferries depart from Uno to Honmura five times a day (20 min, 280 JPY).
- 3 port of Seto (風 戸 港 seto-kō).
Seven ferries a day. Only accepts travelers with cars.
Seven ferries a day. Only accepts travelers with cars.On the train
From Okayama, which is served by the line Shinkansen Sanyō, there are a handful of local trains bound for Uno (65 min). You can also take the Liner Marine fast trains and change to Chayamachi (茶屋 町) com the train for One (40 minutes with a good connection). The cost of the train is 570 JPY.
- 4 Uno station (宇 野 駅 one-eki). The port is 300 m from the station.
Please note that the Kansai wide area pass allows you to get here.
How to get around
A map Detailed bilingual is available at the Naoshima Maritime Station (designed by the SANAA agency), directly across from the Miyanoura Ferry Terminal. This map has a list of all the guesthouses, restaurants and major exhibits on the island. The map is also available for download from official website of the Naoshima Tourism Association.
By bus
Local buses run infrequently (1-2 times per hour, Japanese timetables, JPY 100 each way) on a route connecting the two ports of Tsutsuji-sō at the eastern end of the island. From there, one free shuttle Benesse which leaves every 30 minutes (15 minutes during peak periods) to Casa Benesse, the Chichū Art Museum and the Lee Ufan Museum. With good planning, that's all it takes to see the island.
Drivers don't understand English so make sure you know the destination and listen when the driver announces the stop:
- «Tsugi wa [name of the stop] ni tomarimasu!»(The next stop will be [stop name])
The main stops are:
- Nōkyō-mae (農 協 前): the closest to the "Art House Project", Honmura Lounge & Archive (information center and Benesse shop).
- Yakuba-mae (役 場 前): to the town hall which is closer to "Haisha" than Nokyo-mae. Bank and post office nearby.
- Tsutsuji-sō (つ つ じ 荘): Where you can stay in the yurts.
By bike
The island has six places for the bicycle rental. Prices range from 300 to 500 JPY per day for a conventional bike to 1,000 JPY for an electric bike.
- Cafe Ougiya, Naoshima, 224940 (Near the Miyanoura port), ☎ 81 87-892-3642.
Single gear bike ￥ 300 per day, electric ￥ 1,000 per day. 8: 30-19: 00 (18:00 in winter).
Single gear bike ￥ 300 per day, electric ￥ 1,000 per day. The museum zone road in the south of the island is not open to vehicles, so you need to leave your bike on either side. The ascending portion of Route 256 climbs (nearly 100m in altitude) so you may prefer to avoid it. If you go from Miyanoura to the eastern border of the museums, it is best to follow road 256 to Honmachi and then continue to follow it until 5 Tsutsuji-so parking before the museum area.
On foot
Although the island is very hilly, it is pleasant enough for cycling and walking along the coast, with the exception of the Miyanoura road at the Chichū art museum where the elevation gain is more pronounced.
Since the island is quite small, in 30 min or 1 hour it is possible to reach any place on foot: the two villages, the ports and the museums. On the other hand, as it takes a full day to quietly see the three sites and admire nature, you may not have all the time.
- From Miyaura Port to Chichu Art Museum: 30 minutes following the southwest coast counterclockwise.
- From Miyaura to Honmura (Art House Project): 30 min.
- From Honmura / Art House Project to the Casa Benesse Museum: 30 min
- From the Benesse house to the Chichū museum: 20 min
If a shuttle allows you to cross the sites of Benesse Art, it becomes a pleasant walk in the natural area.
What see
Naoshima Island has become famous since the early 2000s for its museums of contemporary art, architecture and outdoor contemporary art facilities. Don't miss the chance to take a photo of the giant red pumpkin near Miyanoura harbor and the yellow one on a pier at the southern tip of the island.
Avoid visiting the island on Mondays as most of the museums are closed.
Museums
As with most contemporary Japanese art museums, it is forbidden to touch and photograph the works.
- 1 Chichū Art Museum (地 中 美術館 chichū bijutsukan), 直 島 町 3449-1, ☎ 81 87-892-3755, fax: 81 87-840-8285. 2,060 JPY. Oct-Feb Mar-Sun: 10: 00-17: 00, Mar-Sep Tue-Sun: 10: 00-18: 00; open on Monday if it is a holiday but closes the following day; the ticket office closes one hour before closing. Designed by the architect Tadao Andō and completely underground, this museum integrates art and architecture. The museum exhibits only a few works: 5 paintings by Claude Monet, a room with a giant sphere and 27 wooden sculptures designed by Walter de Maria, also 3 works by James Turrell, one of which allows walking in a room to change the perception through where a variable lighting. James Turrell's works are probably best with as few people as possible, so try to visit the museum early before the crowds arrive. Tickets are sold at the box office about 50 meters down the road. Next to the entrance there is a garden inspired by Claude Monet's landscape. The museum offers a special night program on Fridays and Saturdays to see Turrell's "Open Ski" at sunset (500 JPY, booking required).
- 2 Benesse house museum (ベ ネ ッ セ ハ ウ ス), Gotanji, Naoshima-chō (10 minutes by local bus from the port, then change to the Benesse shuttle bus), ☎ 81 87-892-2030. 1,030 JPY. Mon-Sun: 8:00 am-9:00pm (last admission at 8:00 pm). This museum, the first contemporary art museum open on the island, remains one of the best. It is a beautiful fusion of nature, art and architecture that exhibits works by Andy Warhol, Richard Long and Bruce Nauman among other things. The building (now one of 4 in the complex) was designed by the famous architect Tadao Andō. There are many works exhibited outdoors in the surrounding area.
- 3 Lee Ufan Museum (李 禹 煥 美術館 li ūfan bijutsukan), Gotanji, Naoshima-cho (access with the Benesse shuttle bus). Oct-Feb, Tue-Sun 10: 00-17: 00, Tue-Sep Tue-Sun 10: 00-18: 00, open on Mondays if it's a public holiday but closed the next day. The 3rd Museum of Art was inaugurated in Naoshima on June 15, 2010. Also designed by Tadao Andō. Exhibits only works by Lee Ufan (李 禹 煥)
- 4 Ando Museum, 736-2 Honmura, ☎ 81 87 892 3754, @[email protected]. Tue-Sun 10 am-4.30pm, last admission 4pm. A small museum with works by the architect Tadao Andō, designer of most of the museums on the island. Andō was born in Osaka in 1941 and has received numerous international awards.
- 5 Museum "007 The Man with the Red Tattoo" (2 minutes walk from Miyanoura harbor. Although it identifies itself as a "museum", it is not as large as the Benesse House or the Chichū museum. Part of a house right in front of the fire brigade, easily identifiable with its 7 6 meter high red poles, some of which are broken). A small boutique founded as a museum dedicated to the James Bond novel "The Man with the Red Tattoo" by Raymond Benson. An important part of the story takes place at the Casa Benesse during a G8 summit. The "007 Museum" aims to present Naoshima as Bond's landmark nationwide, introducing visitors to the story of "The Man with the Red Tattoo" through a short animated documentary, novel-inspired creations and various related aspects. with James Bond novels and films. Unfortunately, few things are in English.
- It is also connected to a rather old souvenir shop and a cafe.
Art House Projects
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- Art House Project (家 プ ロ ジ ェ ク ト), Honmura, Naoshima (In the Honmura district), ☎ 81 87-892-3223. ¥ 410 for one site, ¥ 1,030 for six non-inclusive Kinza homes; free under 15 years. Tue-Sun: 10: 00-16: 30, open Monday if it is a public holiday but closed the next day. This project started in 1998 with Tatsuo Miyajima's Kadoya and currently has seven vacant houses. These have been transformed into works of art, part of the history and memories of the period in which his houses were inhabited.
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- 6 Art House Project, Minamidera (家 プ ロ ジ ェ ク ト 南 寺 ジ ェ ー ム ズ ・ タ レ ル). "Backside of the Moon" by James Turrell. Architecture by Tadao Andō. Walk into a building in complete darkness and feel the sensations when the lights slowly come on.
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- 7 Art House Project, Kadoya (家 プ ロ ジ ェ ク ト 角 屋). "Sea of Time '98", "Naoshima's Counter Window", "Changing Landscape" by Tatsuo Miyajima. A count of numbers in a "sea" of LEDs.
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- 8 Art House Project, Go'o sanctuary (家 プ ロ ジ ェ ク ト 護 王 神社)). "Appropriate Proportion" by Hiroshi Sugimoto. Note that it is possible to enter the sanctuary from the small path to the right (sea side). It is simply fantastic, not to be missed.
- 9 Art House Project, Ishibashi (家 プ ロ ジ ェ ク ト 「石橋」). "The Falls" and "The Garden of Kū" by Hiroshi Senju. The former large house of the Ishibashi family, a successful salt producer during the Meiji period.
- 10 Art House Project, Haisha (家 プ ロ ジ ェ ク ト は い し ゃ). "Dreaming Tongue / Bokkon-Nozoki" by Shinro Ohtake. This house used to be that of a dentist ("haisha").
- 11 Art House Project, Gokaisho (家 プ ロ ジ ェ ク ト 碁 会所). "Gokaisho" by Yoshihiro Suda. As the name suggests, it was a place where people used to come to play go.
- 12 Art House Project, Kinza (家 プ ロ ジ ェ ク ト ・ き ん ざ). 510 ¥, not included in the Art House Project combined ticket. Tue-Sun 11: 00-13: 00 and 14: 00-16: 30 Thursdays and holidays. Closed on Thursdays and Fridays from December 1st to the end of February. "Being Given" by Rei Naito. Reservations must be made online in advance. Only one visitor at a time can enter for a maximum of 15 minutes.
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Haisya
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Gokaisyo
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Naoshima architecture
All of Naoshima's public buildings were designed by Kazuhiro Ishii (石井 和 紘), an architect born in Tokyo in 1944. Their style is now known as "Naoshima Architecture". Since these are public institutions, anyone can move not only in the town hall, Tsutsuji-sō and the social center, but can also use the restaurants of the latter two.
- 13 Naoshima Elementary School, Naoshima, 1600, ☎ 81 87-892-3007. From 1970
- 14 Naoshima Nursery School, Honmura, 香 川 郡 直 島 町 1580, ☎ 81 87-892-3011. From 1974
- Municipal gymnasium. 1976
- Naoshima College. From 1979
- 15 Naoshima Town Hall, 696-1 Miyanoura, Naoshima, ☎ 81 87 892 2882. Tue-Sun 10: 00-16: 00. Called "Naoshima Hiunkaku" because it was designed after Honganji Temple which is famous for Hiunkaku tower and resembles a castle. From 1982.
- Naoshima Kindergarten. 1983
- 16 Tsutsuji-so, Tsumuura, 352−1. Municipal cottage from 1991
- Naoshima General Welfare Center. 1995.
What to do
- 1 Naoshima Bathhouse "I ♥ yu" (直 島 銭 湯 「I ♥ 湯), ☎ 81 87-892-2626. adults: ¥ 510, children: ¥ 210. Tue-Fri 14: 00-21: 00, Sat-Sun 10: 00-21: 00. Traditional Japanese public toilets designed by Shinro Ohtake in collaboration with a graphic designer. The name "I ♥ Yu" is a play on words between "you" and "湯 / yu" (very hot in Japanese).
- 2 Gotanji beach. only in July and August. Without a lifeguard.
- Naoshima study of ceramic experience (な お し ま ス ラ グ 陶 芸 体 験 工房), ☎ 81 87-892-2299. From 1,500 ¥. Tue-Sun: 13: 00-17: 00, last admission at 14:30. Make pottery and deliver when dry (Japan only). Slag is a residue from metallurgical production.
Shopping
There are several banks with ATMs and ATMs are also available in the shops. Museums accept credit cards but many shops don't.
Most of the shops close early in the evening and most of them are closed entirely on Sundays and Mondays. There are several convenience stores including Sunkus and 7-eleven. There are also small supermarkets called "Co-op".
- 1 7-Eleven (セ ブ ン - イ レ ブ ン な お し ま 店), ３６９９－７ Miyanoura, ☎ 81 87-840-8139. Mon-Sun 6: 30-22: 00.
Where to eat
Most of the settlements in Naoshima only serve Japanese food. Restaurants can have unusual hours such as being open for lunch only, so it's best to go out and find an open seat. Restaurants accept last orders around 7:30 pm to 9:00 pm on weekdays and also close earlier on Sundays.
Moderate prices
- 1 Aisunao (玄 米 心 食 あ い す な お), 761-1 Miyanoura (Close to the Ando Museum), ☎ 81 87-892-3830. Literally "good rice". Vegetarian restaurant
- 2 Apron Cafe, Miyanoura, 香 川 郡 直 島 町 778, ☎ 81 87-892-3048, @[email protected]. Tue-Sun 11: 00-15: 30. Cafe with a sofa and colorful stools.
- 3 Konichiwa Cafe (コ ン ニ チ ハ), Yubinbango 761-3110 (near the port of Honmura). dishes ¥ 700; coffee or beer ¥ 500.
- 4 NaoPAM / Shima-Shoku-Do Miyanda (NaoPAM / 島 食 DO み や ん だ), 2268-2 Miyanoura. Beer ¥ 400-500. Tue-Sun 11: 30-14: 00, 17: 00-20: 00.
- 5 Tsutsuji-so Café (つ つ じ カ フ ェ), 352-1 直 島 町 Naoshima, ☎ 81 87-892-2838. ¥ 700. Open for lunch only. The closest café to the sea on the island.
- 6 Café Ougiya (カ フ ェ お う ぎ や) (At the port), ☎ 81 87-892-3642. 10: 00-19: 00 (18:00 in winter). Japanese rail-style food, one of the ferry terminal owners. Standard udon, curry and rice, etc. Bikes.
- 7 Café Saya (ほ っ こ り 民宿 清) (After the pachinko, turn left and then immediately right; the cafe is halfway up the hill), ☎ 81 87-892-3821. Tue-Sun 10 am-6pm, may open Sat and Sun 8am. This charming place is attached to the back of a house. Café Saya serves excellent green tea teas and cakes. They also serve tsukune-don (a chicken patty on top of rice), Saya men (beef on top of noodles), etc.
- 8 Kinosaki Udon Naoshima (木 の 崎 う ど ん 直 島 店), 2071-4, Miyanoura (halfway from the port of Miyanoura south along the sea; look for the LED sign), ☎ 81 80-8636-7903. Fri-Wed 10 am-5pm. Self-service restaurant with udon noodle.
- 9 Little Plum, 22521 Miyanoura, ☎ 81 87-892-3751. Pizza ¥ 800-900, beer ¥ 500-600. Wed-Sun 15: 00-22: 00, Thu 17: 00-22: 00. Closes irregularly. Cafe and bar with a good selection of local beers. Bike rental and accommodation are available.
- 10 Oomiyake Guesthouse & Cafe (お お み や け), Honmura, ☎ 81 87-892-2328. It serves coffee, parfait, pizza, curry and rice and more. French speakers are especially welcome because the owner has lived in Morocco and in France.
- 11 Guesthouse & Okonomiyaki Umikko, 4777-8 (in the south-eastern part of the island), ☎ 81 878922358. 11:00-21:30. Okonomiyaki restaurant
- 12 Cafe Ippo (カ フ ェ い っ ぽ), 696-3 Honmura (Close to the Ando Museum), ☎ 81 90-6976-9176. Breakfast ¥ 600; lunch ¥ 1,000. 8:00-16:00.
- 13 Ishii Shouten (民宿 石井 商店 食堂), Honmura, 本村 845-1, ☎ 81 87-892-3022. Fri-Wed 11: 00-16: 00. Udon, tempura. Capacity 20 seats.
- 14 Cafe garden, ８４３―１ Miyanoura, ☎ 81 87-892-3301. 11:30-17:00.
- 15 Maimai, , 直 島 町 本村 750, ☎ 81 90-8286-7039. Tue-Sun 9: 30-17: 00. Coffee. Naoshima burger, Locomoco etc.
Average prices
- 16 New Olympia (ニ ュ ー お り ん ぴ あ), 2310-15 (Sonota) (on the way to Co-op, halfway after the second bend from the port), ☎ 81 87-892-3092. ¥2,000-10,000. Mon-Sat 17: 00-21: 00. The best quality seafood you will get outside of Benesse House. Try the Tempura and don't worry about language barriers, smile and you will be treated royally. The chef has a slip of English translations of his dishes behind the counter.
Where stay
It is advisable to book accommodation in advance, especially for weekend stays; many places don't have online reservations and English speaking staff. There are several ryokan-style dorms and shelters (you'll sleep on a tatami mat) on the island. Western-style accommodations are available by the sea, near the Uno a Tamano.
