Papua New Guinea - Papúa Nueva Guinea

Introduction Papua New Guinea, officially the Independent State of Papua New Guinea (in English: Independent State of Papua New Guinea; in tok pisin: Independen Stet bilong Papua Niugini; in hiri motu: Papua Niu Gini), is a country of Oceania which occupies the eastern half of the island of New Guinea and a large number of islands in the Melanesia located around it. It borders on the west with Indonesia, while Australia is located to the south, the Solomon Islands to the west and the Federated States of Micronesia to the north.

Capital Port moresby Idiom English, Tok pisin Y hiri motu Surface 462 840 km² Population 7 059 653 (2011) Currency kina Time zone UTC 10 Telephone prefix 675

Understand

Context

Different archaeological evidence indicates that in Papua New Guinea there were human settlements more than 35,000 years ago, groups of hunters and later agricultural communities that came to the territory from Asia through Indonesia. These first communities were isolated and with no relationships with each other due to the complicated orography, maintaining very different customs and languages.

The island was sighted by Spanish and Portuguese navigators in the 16th century, and was known as the Isla de Oro. The western part was claimed by the Spanish crown in 1545, using the name of Nueva Guinea for the resemblance then perceived with the coast of West Africa. From the middle of the 19th century, German, Dutch and British merchant expeditions were frequent in search mainly of the precious coconut oil.

The Dutch, Germans, Australians and British disputed the colonization of the territory and especially the exploitation of its gold mining deposits. In 1885, an Anglo-German agreement delimited a division that left the northwestern part of the island to Germany, as well as the areas that today correspond to New Ireland, New Britain and Bougainville, while the British took control of the southern part and the adjacent islands.

In 1902 Australia assumed control of the British part, while the German zone remained until the outbreak of the First World War in 1914, when the Australian army intervened. Both territories were merged in 1949 under the administration of Australia and the supervision of the United Nations. In 1973 it obtained self-government, and two years later, after several episodes and independence tensions, in 1975, Papua New Guinea obtained its complete independence, with Michael Somare as Prime Minister of a coalition government.

The continuous aspirations for secession of lands like Bougainville throughout history, as well as the ethnic and social diversity of the island have led to a policy of a certain degree of autonomy for all regions. A decentralization embodied in the constitution of nineteen provincial governments and other administrative divisions of doubtful viability, such as the one taken in 2009 to divide the provinces of the southern and western Highlands into three new provinces.

In that same year, 2009, NPG received 125,000 visitors, although only 20% of them declared themselves as tourists. The country is a paradox for tourism, since its infrastructure is very scarce outside the main routes, and yet the extraordinary hospitality and friendliness of its inhabitants are able to fill the gaps and welcome visitors who venture to go into the country. However, today the tourism sector is in full development and growth in a good handful of locations. But above all, the virgin areas of the country offer an offer of adventure and exoticism that is as unrivaled as it is inadvisable for inexperienced or fearful travelers.

Weather

Papua New Guinea is located just south of the equator and therefore has a tropical climate. However, in the Highlands the temperatures are quite cool. The (more) humid season runs from December to approximately. June to September is the best period for hiking.

Geography

The country is located in the Pacific ring of fire, where various tectonic plates collide. There are several active volcanoes and it is common to see them erupt. Earthquakes, sometimes accompanied by tsunamis, are also relatively common.

The country's geography is very diverse and, in some areas, extremely rugged. A mountain range, called the Highlands of New Guinea, runs through the entire island of New Guinea, thus forming the crowded region of the highlands, which are mainly covered with tropical rainforest. We can also find dense rainforests in the lowlands and in the coastal areas, as well as wide wetlands that surround the Sepik and Fly rivers. Due to the conditions of the terrain, the country has had certain difficulties in developing transport infrastructures. In some areas, aircraft are the only possibility of transport. The highest peak is Mount Wilhelm at 4,509 meters (14,793 feet). Papua New Guinea is surrounded by coral reefs, closely guarded to be protected.

Reading

There are many great books about Papua New Guinea, both fiction and non-fiction. Writer Sean Dorney published an excellent book for any reader on Papua New Guinea called Papua New Guinea: People, Politics, and History Since 1975 (in Spanish, "Papua New Guinea: People, Politicians and History since 1975"). The third edition is the best, but it is quite difficult to find it outside of Australia (where it is not easy to do so either).

John Laurel Ryan, a former employee of ABC (“Australian Broadcasting Corporation”), also wrote a fantastic book called “The Hot Land”, published in 1970. Also Fascinating historical information includes articles by real witnesses that were sharply censored in other media about the invasion of Indonesia in what was the former Dutch West Papua. It is also difficult to find this excellent and sometimes disturbing book, whose author will unfortunately be even more difficult to find.

In addition, many anthropological studies have been carried out in Papua New Guinea (some have been studied in the area of ​​the "anthropological laboratory"), which help us to understand the different groups in this region. Among the most accessible volumes are Malinowski's "Argonauts of the Western Pacific", which deals with the Trobriand islanders who lived just north of Papua New Guinea.

People

Papua New Guinea has hundreds of ethnic groups and is arguably one of the most heterogeneous countries in the world. Each group has its own ways of expressing art, dance, music, and its own clothing and weapons.

Regions

Papua New Guinea is located north of Australia, west of the Solomon Islands and southwest of the Pacific Ocean, in a region defined since the early nineteenth century as Melanesia. The country is made up of 22 provinces, commonly grouped into nine regions. These are:

Cities

• Port moresby - It is the capital of the country. It has interesting zoological gardens, the Parliament, the museum and has a characteristic Melanesian atmosphere. Its beaches, its port, its restaurants and its aforementioned atmosphere are the highlights. There are numerous domestic flights connecting Port Moresby with other towns in the country that cannot be reached by bus. On the outskirts of the city is the Botanical Garden of the National Capital with a tropical jungle with a botanical garden, and a zoo where you can learn about its rich flora and fauna.
• Alotau - Capital of the province of Bahía de Milne. It is a quiet town located on the edge of the bay. Alotau is also the gateway to some of the most fascinating and unspoiled islands in the world.
• Goroka - An attractive mountainous city with a great climate that has the annual Goroka show. It is the center of the country's coffee industry.
• The e - The second most important city in the country. It is considered the industrial capital of Papua New Guinea and is also known for its beautiful botanical gardens. It has 120,000 inhabitants and an impressive natural environment, with places to visit such as the Botanical Garden or the natural area of ​​the Gulf of Huon.
• Madang - A beautiful city where the bats' flights at sunset leave tourists impressed. It is also a great place for diving activities. The Divine World University is located there, a Catholic university that accepts both local and foreign students. It has approximately 30,000 inhabitants and is located on the north coast of the country.
• Mount Hagen - Capital of the province of the Western Highlands, where you can appreciate the cool climate and the welcoming culture of the Highlands. It is surrounded by volcanoes such as Mount Hagen, which is one of the most important destinations in the country. Its population is around 100,000 inhabitants.
• Rabaul - City located at the foot of an active volcano. It was evacuated and seriously damaged due to the great eruption of 1994. As a tourist destination, Rabaul is very popular for diving and also offers a spectacular harbor. Due to its wartime history it attracts many Japanese visitors.
• Vanimo - Located in the province of Sandaun, it is a border town with Indonesia and famous for surfing. A large Malaysian forestry company dominates the economy of the municipality. The local hardwood is mainly exported to China although it is now in danger of extinction. Vanimo attracts many buyers from across the border.
• Wewak - Capital of the province of Sepik del Este. In this city you can soak up the Sepik culture, the Sepik river and the elaborate sculptures typical of the region. The old part of the town is located on a small peninsula, with the rest of the urban area occupying a narrow strip of land between the ocean and the coastal mountain range that emerges a short distance inland. Going east from the city center, there is a small peninsula where Boram Hospital and Wewak International Airport are located, which is also known as Boram.

Other destinations

• Kokoda Road - Old trail that crosses the Owen Stanley Range. It is famous for crossing one of the most inhospitable territories on the planet and for having hosted the battle of the "Kokoda Path Campaign" during World War II.
• Archipelago of the Luisiadas - Set of beautiful islands located off the typical tourist route. It is a paradise for lovers of diving and sailing.
• Trobriand Islands - Officially called the Kiriwina Islands, they are known as the "Islands of Love" according to the anthropologist Malinowski.
• You fi - It is located in the Cape Nelson fjord. It has a fascinating landscape and is a great place to practice diving. It is also well known for its cover fabrics made from mulberry bark.
• Isle of Manam - It is an island formed by a volcano that is still active. Hikers can hike up the south side of the 1,600-meter volcano although it will not be possible to reach the summit due to the almost constant cloud cover caused by the steam emanating from the volcano. The island is easily accessible by boat from the town of Madang.
• Mount wilhelm - It is the highest mountain in the country (4509 meters). This popular mountain requires hard work despite not being technically difficult to climb. Preparation is important and the dangers should not be underestimated. Also, it is essential to have a guide. The ascent can take 3 or 4 days if the weather is good, although delays often occur due to the storm.
• Kutubu Lake - It is located in the province of Tierras Altas del Sur. According to legend, the lake was formed when a woman cut down a fig tree when looking for water.
• Black Cat Trail - It is located in the province of Morobe. It extends from the town of Salamua (on the Huon Gulf coast) to the town of Wau. It is not a complicated route but it is not recommended for inexperienced hikers since there are certain routes with large falls, river crossings ...
• The Parlament - Located in the country's capital, this impressive Parliament was officially opened in 1984 by Prince Charles of Wales. The spectacular façade features a large mosaic of distinctive Papua New Guinean motifs.
• Brown river - It is famous for the practice of rafting and swimming. In addition, the banks of this river are an ideal place for a picnic.
• National Museum and Art Gallery - This traditional museum is the "spiritual home" of Papua New Guinea's rich natural, cultural and contemporary heritage.

To get

Entry requirements

All foreign visitors wishing to visit Papua New Guinea must obtain a 60-day visa on arrival is available to all EU / EFTA citizens and to the citizens of Andorra, Argentina, Brazil, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Ecuador, Fiji, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Israel, Japan, Kiribati, Macao, Malaysia, Maldives, Islands Marshall, Mexico, Monaco, Micronesia, Nauru, New Zealand, Palau, Peru, Philippines, Samoa, San Marino, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, Tonga, Tuvalu, United States, Uruguay, Vanuatu, and Ciudad del Vatican. Citizens of other countries must obtain advance visas from the nearest PNG diplomatic mission; either in advance or your arrival in the country. It is possible to obtain a tourist visa for around Kina 100 upon arrival, valid for 60 days. It can also be requested in advance at any Papua New Guinean consulate or embassy. In case of residing in a country where there is no PNG embassy or consulate, it is possible to apply for a visa through the embassies or consulates of Australia or Great Britain.

Immigration authorities will allow visa on arrival only for stays longer than 8 hours, so in case of a short layover between flights, you may not be allowed to leave the airport.Full information and application forms available at http://www.immigration.gov.pg/visa.html

By plane

Jackson Airport in Port Moresby is the only international airport in the country. Some of the airlines that operate in it are:

• Air Niugini flies to and from Cairns, Brisbane and Sydney (Australia), Honiara in the Solomon Islands, Manila in the Philippines, Tokyo (Narita) in Japan; and also Singapore and Honk Kong.
• Papua New Guinea Airlines, with flights to Brisbane and Cairns.
• Pacific Blue, which connects Port Moresby with Brisbane with four weekly flights
• Y Qantaslink, with daily links to Cairns

Boat

The main ports are in Madang, Lae and Port Moresbi, there are also terminals in Kieta (Bougainville region) and Rabaul and Kimbe (New Britain region). There is only availability of ferries that make domestic crossings, there are no international routes, although some cruise companies such as Coral Princess and Aurora Expeditions occasionally include stops in PNG.

By land

The country's only land border borders Papua (Irian Jaya) and Indonesia, and crossing it requires different preparations as it presents certain legal difficulties. It is possible to apply for a tourist visa in Jayapura, Indonesia, where there is a consulate in Mendi, about a ten minute drive from the main city. The cost of the visa is around Rs 2000.

Depending on your Indonesian visa, there are different options for crossing the border. If you have a visa on arrival, issued for example at Jakarta airport, you can only cross the border using a boat or by exiting customs in Jayapura and then immediately traveling to the border 30 km away. Western travelers trying the latter should expect to pay a few miscellaneous fees and skip moderate bureaucratic hoops before setting off.

Boats can be hired from Hamedi. Any other type of visa can rent a car or an ojek and cross the land border. If renting a vehicle for the crossing, one should expect to pay approximately IDR300,000 from the city of Jayapura and travelers must pay more than IDR500,000 to return from the border to Jayapura.

Travel

By plane

Papua New Guinea has historically been one of the world's centers of aviation and still features some of the most spectacular flights in the world. In the 1920s, Lae was the world's busiest airport - it was there that aviators from the gold mining industry first proved that it was commercially feasible to ship cargo (and not just people) by air. In fact, Lae was where Amelia Earhart set out on her last journey.

Air transport continues to be the most common way to move between the main urban centers; in fact, almost all major settlements are built around an airstrip. In fact, the main drag of Mt. Hagen is the old airstrip! Traveling from the coast to the Highlands is particularly spectacular (don't take your eyes off the window for a second!) And pilots from Australia, New Zealand, the United States and other countries work here just for the great flying experience. However, if you don't like small planes (or even smaller helicopters), flying to more remote locations here may not be the best option for you.

The two main national airlines are Air Niugini and Airlines PNG:

• Air Niugini it connects Port Moresby and, to a lesser extent, Lae with most of the provincial capitals, but does not offer much service between the smaller cities. A national route map available. The airline flies Fokker F100, as well as smaller propeller planes.
• Airlines PNG connects a large number of smaller centers. Aircraft with a seating capacity of 20 to 36. It operates on the mainland and does not serve the main outer islands. A route map is available on their website.

Boat

People living in the archipelagos get around locally with the ubiquitous banana boat, a 30-40 foot fiberglass hull with an outboard motor.

In addition, two or three shipping lines also sell tickets for passengers who want to jump from one city to another. These ferries run only two or three times a week and offer high and low class. Upper gives you a bunk to sleep in, while Lower gives you a hard seat.

There is a ferry twice a week between Madang and Wewak.

A small boat leaves the town of Lae once a week and stops at Finschhafen and Umboi Island. Sleeping on the open deck of a ship as it crawls slowly through the South Pacific night is almost as romantic as it sounds, but be warned - it's cold in the open ocean no matter where you are, so grab warm clothes or buy a cabin inside. .

By car

Papua New Guinea is a strange place when it comes to traveling. Tropical conditions, fierce geography, and a lack of government capacity mean that there are very few paved roads in the country.

With the exception of a short stretch of road that connects you to the immediate interior and a highway that will allow you to follow the southeast coast for a few hours, there are no major roads linking Port Moresby to anywhere else.

On the north coast, a tenuous road runs from Madang to Wewak only in theory.

The big exception to this is the Highlands Highway, which starts at Lae (the country's main port) and goes up into the highlands via Goroka to Mt. Hagen with a fork returns to the coast and Madang. Little outside of Mt. The Hagen road forks, with the southern line passing through the southern highlands to Tari, while the northern line runs through Enga province and ends at Porgera.

Driving is on the left side of the road, the steering wheel is on the right in vehicles.

Possession of an international driving license is mandatory if you plan to drive yourself.

Even if the vehicles (generally obsolete ...) circulate here and there in the territory, the road network is almost non-existent because no axis allows to connect the largest towns between them. Every trail can be a real challenge, especially in rainy weather. In 2010, there were officially less than 700 (unfortunately ...) kilometers of paved roads.

It is essential to drive with all doors closed regardless of the time of day and night. If you must drive at night, always choose to do it in a convoy with people you trust.

By bus

Public transport between cities, private, is relatively impractical due to the poor state of the roads. This is still the cheapest way to bring the different cities together.

In public motor vehicles (PMV)

The most common way to travel is by PMV / bus with the locals.

Lae, Madang, Goroka, Tari and Mount Hagen are all connected by a good road. As a newcomer, it is probably wise to get help from the locals (eg hotel staff). Most cities have several starting points. A trip from Lae to Madang costs around PGK20, to Mt. Hagen PGK30.

By train

There is no rail service in Papua New Guinea.

Talk

Some 800 different languages ​​are spoken in Papua New Guinea, a richness and linguistic diversity that often complicates communication between or with its inhabitants. However, the dominant languages ​​are those known as Tok Pisin and Hiri Motu, which present certain phonetic and writing similarities with English, possibly due to the colonization processes suffered.

Tok Pisin is the most widespread and well-known language in the country, and it is possible to find small tourist guides and short dictionaries at an affordable price in many bookstores. Hiri Motu is spoken in Port Moresby, although due to its status as capital in any agency or service office we will also find Tok Pisin speakers. It is advisable to address the premises in English always as the first option; a foreigner trying to use native languages ​​is often interpreted as an assumption that they cannot speak the most universal language. It is possible that some difficulties arise when it comes to understanding the locals because they tend to speak extremely slowly and in a very low tone. Many population groups consider it rude and impolite both to raise your voice when speaking and to look the other person in the eye.

To buy

From a Westerner's point of view, it could be said, in a broad sense, that there is not much to buy in Papua New Guinea. In large cities it is possible to find some shopping centers and supermarkets of different sizes, but most of the usual purchases are usually made in small markets and flea markets that are established with a certain temporary irregularity. One of the most interesting and recommended to visit is the handicraft market that is organized once a month in the capital, Port Moresby, in front of the Ela Beach area, in the IEA TAFE Institute car parks. There it is possible to buy very diverse and attractive handicraft products and objects from all parts of the country. The price may be slightly higher than at the points of origin, but they are still very reasonable. Haggling is not a cultural custom in PNG, and while it is generally accepted to bargain lightly on prices, putting excessive pressure on sellers can end up angering and offending locals.

To eat

Local food tends to make very generous use of spices. One of the traditional ways of cooking is known as mumu , consisting of grilling food with hot coals and underground, usually meat, vegetables, and sweet potatoes called kaukau. Rice usually accompanies all meals of the day. Tourist accommodations usually combine traditional and local food with other menus of a more western style and taste.

To drink

The quality of drinking water varies considerably according to the area of ​​the country, and sometimes changes from day to day, or according to the season of the year, so it is advisable to always consume bottled mineral water, even in higher-category hotels. There are some local beer brands, such as SP Lager, which is owned by the Heineken group. Wine and beer are often served at room temperature due to problems with maintaining refrigeration systems in many areas.

Sleep

Papua New Guinea presents accommodation options suitable for all types of budgets. Hotels are usually expensive (around € 70 / day). Guest houses are a good option in large cities, although their price ranges around € 30 / day. The cheapest alternative is to stay in the guest houses of villages and towns that offer beds for an average of € 10, and where in exchange for less comfort, there is usually much more fun ...

In Port Moresby you will find international hotels such as the Crown Plaza and Airways International, others of intermediate range such as the Lamana and multiple guest houses. In the rest of the regions, hotels and lodging houses are distributed indistinctly according to the size of the cities. In Alotau there is an ecotourism complex called Ulumani Treetops Lodge, a beautiful enclave overlooking the Bay of Milne with camping and bungalow offers. There is also a luxury resort, Ambua Lodge, in the Tari area, south of the Highlands region, managed by Australians and with prices around € 150 per night.

Learn

Work

There is a workforce of about two million people in a few different industries. There is a great demand for qualified people, but it is still difficult for women and men who consider themselves "unskilled" to find work. Many people run small informal businesses to earn money.

Security

Health

The main health risks are those that can arise from the consumption of tap water in certain areas and those caused by the very abundant mosquitoes, which in addition to being a nuisance by themselves, can transmit diseases such as dengue or malaria. A good supply of insect repellent and always consume bottled water is essential. It is advisable to get vaccinated against Hepatitis A and B and Typhus. If necessary, it is possible to call on the country's medical services, mainly concentrated in the cities. Nor is it difficult to find the most common and basic medications. PNG is not a fully recommended destination for pregnant women and young children, since in them the impact and risk of these diseases and other disorders associated with the country's climate such as dehydration or heat stroke is much greater.

Respect

As in many Melanesian cultures, greeting people with a friendly handshake is very important. However, keep in mind that it is a sign of respect. not make eye contact. The sight of hotel staff calling you by name, shaking hands, and looking at the floor may seem unusual at first.

Keep in touch

Papua New Guinea has 2 mobile GSM operators at the moment:

• Digicel PNG
• bmobile-Vodafone

There is 4G LTE coverage in the capital, Port Moresby and Lae and 3G / 2G coverage in most of the populated places.

Surroundings

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  Ekuti Range

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  Tarvurvur