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| Sambor Prei Kuk | ||
| province | Kampong Thom | |
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| Residents | unknown | |
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The temple complex Sambor Prei Kuk(Khmer: ប្រាសាទសំបូរព្រៃគុក) located in Cambodia, around 30 kilometers north of the city Kampong Thom in the province of the same name.
background
For more background knowledge and explanation of terms, please also read the articles Understand Angkor and Angkor's story note.
Meaning of the temple site: The temple area of Sambor Prei Kuk belongs together with Angkor and Koh Ker to the three most important temple complexes in Cambodia. There are between 150 and 250 individual temple ruins on the area of these three archaeological sites.
In Sambor Prei Kuk we find the first Khmer temples. The complex consists of three main temple groups, seven other temple complexes and numerous individual sanctuaries. These were built in the 7th to 9th centuries. While the Angkor Archaeological Park is visited by around seven million tourists annually, Sambor Prei Kuk (with a few dozen visitors a week) is still in a deep slumber. Some tourists take advantage of the trip from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap or vice versa for a short detour to Sambor Prei Kuk; However, most of them drive past the temples that are worth seeing, which are located in the middle of the jungle.
Around 60 prasats (towers), mostly brick structures, stand in an area of around 20 square kilometers. There is evidence that 47 of these date from the 7th century, i.e. from the pre-Angkor period. More than 100 other temples have completely fallen apart and can only be recognized by piles of bricks. Countless artifacts are still believed to be under the earth's surface, at a depth of around one meter. Large areas covered with slabs have only been partially excavated.
Unesco world heritage site: In 2017 Sambor Prei Kuk was included in the list of Unesco world heritage site recorded.
founding: Sambor Prei Kuk was founded at the beginning of the 7th century by Isanavarman I, who ruled from 616 - 635 AD (possibly from 610 - 635 AD), as the capital of the Chenla Empire (or Tschen-la ) founded. It was called Isanapura, was the first temple city in Asia and was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. His successor Bhavavarman II (635 - 655) also resided in Isanapura, but later rulers no longer.
Inscriptions: Sixteen inscriptions were discovered in Sambor Prei Kuk. You mention, inter alia. the founder Isanavarman I by name and prove that he had the southern group of temples built. The inscriptions also give an approximate idea of the cults and rituals in Sambor Prei Kuk.
The style of Sambor Prei Kuk (610 - approx. 655): The roots of temple architecture and the sculpture of Sambor Prei Kuk can be found in Indian temple art. In Sambor Prei Kuk, however, an independent style emerged in just a few decades, called "Sambor Prei Kuk Style" - the first of Khmer art. This is characterized by brick towers on sandstone platforms that have a square, rectangular or octagonal floor plan. The towers usually have a doorway on the east side and a false door on the west side. The sandstone lintels are richly decorated. The monuments were once covered with a stucco-like material. Only small traces of this are still detectable. The rather small and compact sanctuaries served as a dwelling for Shiva. Those originally set up in the temples Lingas were stolen or taken to safety (to the museum).
Already at the beginning of Khmer art, in the first half of the 7th century, sculpture reached a high point. The few sculptures that have survived are almost life-size and sculpted in the form of round shapes. They fascinate with the grace of movement and the careful processing. Today there are no more originals in Sambor Prei Kuk. These are among others. in the Musée Guimet in Paris, in the National Museum in Phnom Penh or in private collections. Most famous are the 1.65 tall statue of Durga (Shiva's partner), which resembles a Greek goddess, and the statue of Harihala (half Vishnu, half Shiva), both of which are placed in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.
The brick reliefs that can be found on many of the outer walls of the temple of Sambor Prei Kuk are unique. They represent so-called "flying palaces" (constructions in which the gods could fly from one place to another). It is possible that these reliefs are a scaled-down image of the temple. There were also brick reliefs in medallion form on some of the surrounding walls of the main temple.
Archaeological research and protection zones: In Sambor Prei Kuk two protection zones were eliminated. The three main temple groups are located in Zone A, an area around 2 square kilometers. Neither residential houses nor agricultural activities are permitted here. In the much larger zone B, construction and agriculture can be carried out to a limited extent. Here archaeologists have a.o. discovered a (now dried up) moat 2 kilometers on a side, traces of an earth wall and numerous temple ruins.
Recent history: When the supply network of the Viet Cong (Ho-Ch-Minh-path) was exposed to constant bombing attacks during the Vietnam war, they evaded into the neighboring countries. Among other things, Sambor Prei Kuk was also used as a retreat and as a transit point for the numerous supply transports. For this reason, the Americans dropped numerous bombs on Cambodia around 1970, including on the site of Sambor Prei Kuk. Today you can still see around 300 bomb craters in the temple area.
getting there
The temples of Sambor Prei Kuk can be found on a day trip from Siem Reap, Phnom Penh or Tbaeng Meanchey If you are passing through from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh or vice versa, you can interrupt the journey and make a detour to Sambor Prei Kuk. If you arrive by bus, you may have to plan a night in Kampong Thom.
The starting point for a visit to the temple site is in most cases the provincial capital Kampong Thomwhich is about halfway between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.
- Siem Reap - Kampong Thom: National road no. 6, around 150 kilometers, around two and a half hours.
- Phnom Penh - Kampong Thom: National road 6A to Skun (well-known market where, among other things, fried spiders are sold), then national road No. 6, a total of around 170 kilometers, approx. Two and a half to three hours.
These routes are paved and in good condition.
- Kampong Thom - Chey - Sambor Prei Kuk: National road No. 62 (towards Tbeng Meanchy) to Chey, approx. 15 kilometers (paved and well developed), then approx. 15 kilometers on a dirt road to the temple area. In Chey, an unmistakable plaque indicates the temple grounds. The access road from Chey to the temple site is unpaved and poorly maintained. Even outside of the rainy season, it can be covered over a large area with dried mud, which has countless ruts. Getting through is possible with any vehicle, but quite tedious. In the rainy season you have to rely on a four-wheel drive vehicle or a motorcycle, because in addition to driving through the mud, you have to drive around or drive through countless water-filled depressions.
- Tbaeng Meanchey - Chey: National road 62 (towards Kampong Thom), approx. 150 kilometers, around two and a half hours. This route is very well developed and paved.
If you travel to Kampong Thom by bus, you can take a motorcycle taxi to the temple site from here.
There is a ticket booth in Chey; entry to the temple site is $ 5.
The temple complex
The temple complex lies in the thick forest; numerous (partly signposted) paths connect the individual ruins. For the layperson, it is difficult to establish a connection between the individual buildings in the extensive, plant-overgrown area. It is worth exploring the area in the company of a guide. Both the archaeologists and the guides refer to the individual ruins i. d. Usually with a combination of a letter and a number.
Zone A: Here are the three main temple groups, some of which come from different building eras. The N group (North group) includes the Prasat Sambor Temple and other ruins north of this facility. To S group (South group) belongs to the Prasat Yeai Poeun and some ruins near and south of it. The C group (Central Group) includes the Prasat Tao (Lion Temple) and numerous ruins to the west and north of this. Each of the three main temples had a main tower, several side towers, two concentric enclosing walls, and one or more water basins.
- The southern group dates from the first building epoch and was (as the inscriptions show) completely built by Isanavarman I. The well-preserved central tower (S1) has impressive brick reliefs (flying palaces) on the outside and above the doors. The lintels of this sanctuary are among the most beautiful in Khmer art. Five smaller, octagonal towers surround the central sanctuary. Only the west side of the inner wall, made of bricks, is relatively well preserved. The wall was decorated with medallion-shaped brick reliefs. The east gate of the inner wall (S3) has crumbled heavily, the remains are held together by the roots of a giant strangler fig. The outer perimeter wall was made of laterite and has practically disappeared. Originally, this group of temples included a golden Shiva symbol (lingam?) and a silver nandi (holy bull, mount of Shiva).
- The northern group comes from different building eras. The central sanctuary (N1), however, was built under Isanavarman I. It is badly crumbled and is made up of four small towers in Quincunx position flanked. Two of these towers once housed the famous statue of Durga and that of Harihala. Today the originals are in Phnom Penh; copies of these can be seen on site. Remains of other towers can be seen between the first and second enclosing walls. The sanctuaries N 18 (Prasat Chrey) and N 24 (Prasat Luong Chom Bok), which belong to the northern group, are a bit apart, north of the access road. They are almost completely overgrown by roots.
- The C group does not come from Isanavarman I. The two lion sculptures that guard the entrance of the Prasat Tao (C1) (Tao = lion) are worth seeing. Her manes with the spiral curls are unique in the art of the Khmer. Traces of two small shrines can be found next to the lion temple.
Zone B: In Zone B there are numerous ruins as well as a (dry) moat that once enclosed an area of 4 square kilometers. Also in Zone B are the remains of the two boulevards, each about two kilometers long and leading from the east to Prasat Sambor (N group) and Prasat Yeai Poeun (S group).
The temples of Sambor Prei Kuk have been restored several times. The sanctuaries are badly weathered by rain, vegetation and lightning strikes. American air strikes (Vietnam War) and grenade strikes during the Civil War (Khmer Rouge) also caused great damage. Looters also left unsightly traces. Much of the ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk are overgrown with plants. The innumerable roots blow up the building fabric, but also hold it together. This requires careful and regular pruning or removal of the vegetation. In addition to the visible buildings, numerous finds are suspected under the clay soil that are still waiting to be discovered.
You should plan two to three hours to visit the temples.
Food, shopping, guides
At the entrance to the temple complex there are simple restaurants that offer hot meals and drinks.
There are usually a few trained guides waiting here who offer a tour for ten dollars (or a fee "at will"). In the last few years around forty guides have been trained for the ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk. However, most of them have other occupations because of the low number of tourists.
Only a few souvenirs are offered on site. The cotton scarves (Kramas), which are offered on the temple grounds (as well as at the ticket booth in Chey) for one to two dollars, come from industrial production. For the women and children who live in the vicinity of the temple complex, the proceeds often represent the only income.
accommodation
If you do not travel to Siem Reap, Phnom Penh or Tbeng Meancheay after the visit, you can find a bed in one of the few hotels in Kompong Thom. Occasionally, locals in the vicinity of Sambor Prei Kuk offer an overnight stay (hammock) in their stilt hut.
security
Land mines: The temples and their immediate surroundings are mine-free. However, it is strongly advised not to leave the trails, as there may still be undetonated landmines in the forest.
Bomb crater: In Sambor Prei Kuk you can see around 300 bomb craters. It is uncertain whether all the bombs dropped have exploded. Therefore the paths should not be left.
Footwear: The paths between the temples are unpaved, narrow and bumpy; sturdy shoes are recommended.
health
Ants: There are numerous yellow ants in Sambor Prei Kuk whose bite is very painful.
malaria: Those who stay overnight in Sambor Prei Kuk should protect themselves adequately from mosquito bites (mosquito net).
Drinking water: The approx. 300 hectare area is located in the forest, so that you are mostly protected from the sun. Due to the humidity there and the great distances between the individual ruins, it is advisable to always take a sufficient supply of water with you when visiting the temple.
literature
- : Angkor, Cambodia's Wondrous Khmer Temples. Odyssey Books & Guides, ISBN 978-962-217-802-1 . - The 500-page book by the American art historian, who lives in Bangkok and made more than a hundred trips to Cambodia, is currently the most detailed work on the temples of Cambodia. She dedicates a total of three pages of text and a plan with the three main temples to Sambor Prei Kuk.
- : Art & Architecture of Cambodia (English). Thames & Hudson world of art, 2004, ISBN 0-50020375-X . - Sambor Prei Kuk is dealt with on five pages of text; numerous, very good photographs and some drawings illustrate the chapter
Web links
overview
| Time period: | 610 - approx. 655 | Getting there: Day trip from Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. The most convenient way to get there is by taxi. You can also travel from Kampong Thom by motorcycle taxi |   one to two hours |
| Architectural style: | Sambor Prei Kuk | ||
| Reign: | Isanavarman I., Bhavavarman II. | Visiting time: all day | |
| Religion: | Hinduism | ||
| Other plants of this period: no | |||
