Soğanlı - Soğanlı

Soğanlı is a village in Cappadocia in the Turkey.

Soğanlı Valley
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background

The first traces of settlement lead back to the Roman Empire. The first tombs in the Soğanlı Valley date from this period. When the Arab general Battal Gazi (the son of Huseyin Gazi) in the 8th century AD Cappadocia conquered, this part remained undiscovered for a long time. Thereupon he gave this valley the name Sonakaldi, which means "left to the last". From this name, the name Soğanlı, which means something like onion, developed over the centuries. But that did not affect a flourishing church culture. On the contrary, the most important churches were built between the 9th and 13th centuries. It is estimated that around 150 churches were created here over the centuries. Many have now been buried or converted into dovecotes. Because agriculture is the main source of income here, and as fertilizer, as in the first millennium after Christ, pigeon dung is used. But many churches are still preserved and can be compared to those in Zelve and Goreme keep up. But in contrast to the touristically highly frequented Goreme Hardly anyone gets lost here, so you can visit the churches here in peace. All tourist facilities such as guest houses, cafes or restaurants are under local village control, so that everything feels a little more homely.

getting there

There is no bus or dolmus connection. Therefore there is only the possibility of joining an organized tour of Goreme or Urgup to connect or to travel by car yourself. To do this, follow the connecting road between Urgup and Yeşilhisar and behind Şahinefendi the signs.

mobility

If you want, you can explore the valley on a donkey

The valley that divides towards the end can be explored on foot. But you should have a day for that. The car can be parked at the Cappadocia restaurant.

If you have less time, you should not be without the car. But the higher-lying churches still have to be hiked.

Another alternative is to rent a donkey to carry you through the valley.

Tourist Attractions

The valley begins with the front Soğanlı part of the village, the so-called Aşağı Soğanlı. Shortly after the crossing there are two churches:

  • Gok Kilise. The Himmelskirche is opposite the Schnallenkirche and access leads through bushes.
  • Tokalı Kilise. The Schnallenkirche is located high in the rock and can be reached by a long staircase carved into the stone. Some graves can be seen in front of the church. The church itself consists of three large naves. Unfortunately, the frescoes are in very poor condition.

The Paid Area then begins after the Cappadocia Restaurant. For 3 TL you enter the area of ​​the rear Soğanlı, the so-called Yukarı Soğanlı. Here the valley forks into a left and right part in which there are many churches to discover:

The Kubbeli Kilise

The left valley:

  • Geyikli Kilise. The Hirschkirche.
  • Tahtalı Kilise. Many saints can be seen in frescoes in the Barbara Church, which dates back to the early 10th century. In addition, Bible topics are presented, such as the trip to Bethlehem, the birth of Jesus and his ascension to heaven. Incidentally, this originally translated means wooden church, as it can only be reached via a wooden bridge.

The souvenir shop, the two cafes and the guesthouse can also be found here.

The right valley:

  • Karabaş Kilise. The construction of this church could be dated exactly to the years 1060 to 1061 by inscriptions. It bears your name (Black Heads) because of the black background. The church consists of a relatively large complex which, in addition to the church itself, also includes graves and various usable rooms. The numerous frescoes essentially represent important stages in the life of Christ. You can see the birth of Jesus, Jesus in the temple, Jesus on the cross and the Ascension of Christ.
  • Yılanlı Kilise. The frescoes in the snake church have been painted over with black paint. It bears its name thanks to a depiction of St. George fighting a snake-like dragon. The depiction of Jesus and his companions followed by warriors of God with spears is unique. The last pictures of the church were taken in the 14th century.
  • Saklı Kilise. The hidden church is not just called that. You have to stand in front of it to discover it.
  • Kubbeli Kilise. The domed church from the 10th century impresses with its construction. The outside of the domes has been worked on in such a way that they even reproduce a church tower. Some of the frescoes are as unusual as the construction. In addition to classic themes, the murder of innocent children on the orders of Herod, evidence of the virginity of Mary and the flight to Egypt can be found here, among other things.
Frescoes in the Yılanlı Kilise.JPG

activities

  • Discover. There are more churches here than in Goreme in the smallest of spaces and many of them are at least as worth seeing. In addition, due to the remoteness, you rarely come across large groups of tourists here.
  • hike. The beautiful canyon invites you to go hiking.

shop

In addition to the usual Cappadocia souvenirs, they offer something special. In the village, special rag dolls are made in the winter months to sell to tourists in the summer. Since these are now being sold all over Cappadocia, it seems that Soğanlı is sometimes more known for dolls than for the valley itself.

kitchen

Cappadocia restaurant
  • Kapadokya. Tel.: 90 (0)352 653 1045. The only restaurant operated in the village is the Kapadokya restaurant. There is a limited choice of dishes here. But low prices, a family atmosphere and, last but not least, the picturesque garden terrace make up for it. This is on the only access road just before the cash desk on the left. The area can also be explored on foot from the associated parking lot.

nightlife

Soğanlı is the tranquility itself, if you are looking for a disco you should rather places like Goreme or Urgup prefer.

accommodation

  • Emek Pansiyon, Bizans Kaya Oyma / Soğanlı / Turkey. Tel.: 90 352 653 1029, Fax: 90 352 653 1029. Feature: pension.Price: € 17 in shared accommodation (half board).
    .

health

Good footwear and a little caution are required in the valley. Involuntary slipping usually results in painful abrasions.

In summer it is very hot here during the day. It is essential to stock up with enough water before excursion activities.

Practical advice

Sturdy shoes are essential for the hike and for climbing the church complexes.

The national code is 0352

trips

literature

Web links

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