Svaneti (Georgian სვანეთი) is an im Caucasus located historical region Georgia with the "capital" Mestia. The region is also known as the land of towers because of the typical defense towers of Upper Svaneti. Administratively, Upper Svaneti (Mestia County) belongs to the (Mchare) region Mingrelia-Upper Svaneti, Lower Swanetia (administrative district Lentechi) to the region (Mchare) Ratscha-Letschchumi and Lower Swanetia. Upper and Lower Svaneti are separated by the 2600 m high, difficult to pass Sagari Pass.
The Upper Svanetian mountain villages have been part of the World Heritage of UNESCO.
Regions
places
Upper Svaneti
- Mestia - Capital, famous for the defense towers, the historical museum. The only urban settlement in Upper Svaneti
- Mazeri - a breathtakingly beautiful mountain village; the starting point for Svaneti mountain Ushba trekking.
- Ushguli - The ensemble with defense towers is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Lower Swanetia
Other goals
background
language
In Svaneti, Svaneti is spoken in addition to Georgian, a dialect that differs greatly from Standard Georgian. The most common foreign language is Russian, and knowledge of English and German is not very widespread.
getting there
In the street
The journey to Upper Svaneti is via the main road from Zugdidiwhich is now paved to Mestia and in good condition. Work is underway on the further expansion to Ushguli. The road is safe for winter. It is advisable to drive carefully, as the route is winding and has steep gradients in some places.
Lower Swanetia is best off by car Terdschola or Kutaisi above Ambrolauri and Tsageri reachable.
Upper and Lower Svaneti are connected by a bad road over the Zagari Pass, which is about 2600 meters high (between Ushguli and Lentekhi). The route is impassable between October and May / June due to snow, in summer a 4WD vehicle and appropriate driving experience is essential, as the condition of the road is miserable.
The signage of the side streets (especially signposts) is mostly missing, which is why it is recommended to get good maps (available in Tbilisi) and to ask for directions.
By plane
The Georgian airline has been operating since August 2014 Service Air Scheduled flights between the airfield Natachtari (20 km north of Tbilisi) and Mestia. Flight tickets cost 65 Lari each way and can be bought at both airports and in Tbilisi at 11 Chardeni Street. Internet booking is not possible. The flights are usually booked out weeks in advance.
Public transport
From Tbilisi and most of the larger cities in the neighboring regions, minibuses run several times a day to Svaneti. You can go to Lower Swanetia Kutaisi, Tkibuli or Terdschola, to Oberswanetien from Zugdidi. It is also advisable to take the Tbilisi-Zugdidi night train, as the minibuses to Mestia are waiting in front of the train station when it arrives in Zugdidi.
mobility
In Svaneti there are chargeable minibuses, and numerous hotels and inns in Upper Svaneti offer to show you around by car. However, in the main season a trip (e.g. a day trip Mestia-Ushguli) can be absurdly expensive, sometimes up to 100 USD per person is reported.
Tourist Attractions
In addition to the typical defense towers (especially Ushguli here) Svaneti offers great opportunities for hiking and mountaineering. The regional museum in Mestia is also famous with its ancient icons and gold coins. Furthermore, if you are keen to discover, you can find numerous treasures off the beaten track, such as dilapidated old churches or fortresses.
activities
- Rockclimbing
- Hiking - it is possible to hike from Mestia to Ushguli in five days. This hike is also suitable for less experienced hikers.
- Skiing: In Hatsvali, 5 km south of Mestia, there is a modern chair lift. The construction of another ski area on the Ushba glacier is in the planning stage
- The Hotel Tetnuldi in Mestia rents out mountain bikes
- Numerous private companies now also offer horse tours.
Svaneti trekking routes from Mazeri village
Several of the most exciting Svaneti trekking routes start in Mazeri Village (Becho) Among them:
- Mount Ushba Trekking Route
- Mazeri (Becho) - Guli Pass - Koruldi Lakes - Mestia trek
- Mazeri (Becho) - Baki Pass - Etseri trek
kitchen
Standard Georgian cuisine is common in Svaneti. Otherwise, meat dishes and cold-resistant vegetables dominate. A Svanetian specialty is Kubdari, a kind of khachapuri with a meat filling, usually spicy.
In the lower elevations, especially in Lower Swanetia, wine is planted.
- Svaneti seasoning salt.
(სვანური მარილი / svanuri marili) is a mixture of salt, garlic, fenugreek, dill, coriander, caraway, ground hot peppers and marigolds. You can find it in almost every Georgian kitchen. It is used for soups, potatoes, pastries, vegetables or meat. It's a nice souvenir for those who stayed at home.
nightlife
There are no discos, night clubs and bars in Svaneti. The local (male) population usually meets on the street when the weather is nice, after having stocked up on drinks and cigarettes from the nearby shop. More and more coffeehouses and restaurants are emerging in the tourist areas, where you can also spend the evening, as well as at the hotel bar.
accommodation
In Svaneti you can find private quarters without any problems, outside of the larger towns they are often the only way to spend the night. The level of comfort is acceptable, there is often shared bathroom with hot water, but sometimes it is also very spartan (outhouse in the garden). The guide price per person (with three meals a day) is 50-60 Lari. In and around Mestia there are now "real" hotels:
- Peak Mazeri Guest House (A private mini-hotel near Mestia), Mestia District, Mazeri, Becho Community, Samegrelo-Upper Svaneti, Georgia. E-mail: [email protected]. In the village of Mazeri near Becho, turn left from the main road 18 km before Mestia. Great location right at the foot of Mount Ushba. Room with a beautiful view of the mountains and good food. Free collection by car. Mediation of riding tours and mountain tours to Uschba.
- Grand Hotel Ushba (A small hotel at the foot of the Ushba), Mestia District, Mazeri, Becho Community, Samegrelo-Upper Svaneti, Georgia. E-mail: [email protected]. In the village of Mazeri near Becho, turn left from the main road 18 km before Mestia. Placement of mountain guides.Price: from 64 EUR for a double room including breakfast.
- Hotel Tetnuldi, Mestia, 9 Margiani Street. Tel.: 995 32 2729009, Email: [email protected]. In the village of Mazeri near Becho, turn left from the main road 18 km before Mestia. Rooms equipped with satellite TV.Price: from 180 GEL for a double room including breakfast.
security
Until 2004 Swanentien was a no-go area for tourists. Robberies and kidnappings were the order of the day. The situation in Svaneti is now much safer. Basically there is the possibility to report to the local police, the presence of the next police station is then passed on by radio. The police will then wait in the next village to see if you will arrive and then pass the information on to the next police station. Sometimes you can be escorted by the police. If you want to camp wild, you can also tell the police.
It is also helpful if you have contact with a family in Svaneti, as the name dropping ("I am a guest of XY") ensures further security.
The greatest danger potential in Svaneti is when hiking in the mountains. When the weather changes surprisingly, even experienced mountaineers often find themselves in distress. Every year there are also human lives caused by freezing to death or falling. It is advisable to observe the weather closely when hiking in the mountains, and to take suitable equipment and food with you. Inexperienced mountaineers should hire mountain guides who can be found in most accommodations (price 50-80 GEL per day).
Get by
- Tourist info Mestia, Setis Moedani 7. Tel.: 995 790 357375, Email: [email protected]. Open: Mon - Sun 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.
climate
Continental mountain climate. Even in midsummer there can be frost due to the altitude, especially at night. Rapid weather changes must be expected when hiking in the mountains and appropriate equipment must be taken with you. Inexperienced mountaineers should hire a mountain guide.
literature
- Geoland sells good hiking maps of Svaneti on a large scale. They are sold in the office in Tbilisi, Telegrafis Tschichi 3, near the Dry Bridge for 10 Lari. Individual shops in Mestia and good hotels in the region also carry these cards, but only in small numbers. You can also purchase digital maps for GPS devices from Geoland.
Web links
- Official website of the Friedrich Ebert Foundation in German, English, Russian and Georgian with a lot of information about Svaneti
- Svaneti Ushba trekking - Peak Mazeri Guest House in Mestia region, Becho.
