Comoros - Comoras

Introduction

The Comoros (جزر القمر Juzur al-Qamar in Arab, Komori in comorense, the Comoros in French) is an archipelago of the Indian Ocean located near the southeastern shores of Africa, Come in Mozambique Y Madagascar. It is made up of three main islands, Anjouan, Mohéli Y Greater Comoros (where the capital is located, Moroni); Comoros also claims sovereignty over a fourth island, Mayotte, under French administration.

Islands

  • Greater Comoros (Ngazidja) - The largest island in the country, it contains the capital (Moroni) and the highest point in the country (the active volcano of Karthala).
  • Moheli (Mwali) - The smallest and most natural island, it has the best beaches and unique wildlife, such as sea turtles or the huge Livingstone fruit bat.
  • Anjouan (Nzwani) - The most mountainous island, also known as The Island of Perfumes due to the number of aromatic plants that can be found, such as vanilla and ylang-ylang.

The island of Mayotte it is claimed by Comoros, but administered by France.

Cities

  • Moroni - The capital of the country, located in Greater Comoros
  • Domoni - The second largest city and ancient capital of Anjouan
  • Fomboni - The capital of Moheli
  • Nioumachoua - The second largest city in Moheli, on the south coast.
  • Moutsamoudou - Capital of Anjouan.

Understand

One of the poorest countries in the world, the Comoros is made up of three islands that have poor transport links, a young and rapidly growing population, and few natural resources.

Comoros is also the smallest nation by population in the Arab world.

The name of Comoros originates from "qamar", moon in Arabic.

History

The islands of the Comoros have been colonized by a succession of various groups from the coast of Africa, the Persian Gulf, the Malay Archipelago, and Madagascar. Swahili settlers first came to the islands as part of the great Bantu expansion that took place during the first millennium.

In 933 CE, Al-Masudi refers to the Omani sailors, who call the Comoros "The Islands of Perfume" and sing the rhythmically crashing waves along wide beaches of pearly sand, the light breeze scented with ylang-ylang , a component of many perfumes.

From the 11th to the 15th century, trade with the island of Madagascar and merchants from the Middle East flourished, smaller towns arose, and existing cities expanded.

Portuguese explorers visited the islands of the archipelago in 1505 on the Cape Route. In 1506, the Portuguese landed on the islands and began challenging the Bajas (Bantu Muslim chiefs) and Fanis (lesser chiefs).

The French began to colonize the islands in 1841, finally gaining full control of all the islands in 1908.

In 1973, France agreed to give the islands independence, depending on the results of the referendums on each island. Grand Comore, Moheli, and Anjouan voted overwhelmingly in favor, but Mayotte voted to remain part of France and thus remained under French control.

Comoros has suffered 20 coups or attempted coups since it gained independence from France in 1975. In 1997, the islands of Anjouan and Moheli declared their independence from Comoros. In 1999, the military commander Colonel Azali took power. He promised to resolve the secessionist crisis through a confederal agreement called the 2000 Fomboni Agreement. In December 2001, voters approved a new constitution and presidential elections took place in the spring of 2002. Each island in the archipelago chose its own president and a new union president took office in May 2002.

Weather

Located just south of the equator, the Comoros Islands have a tropical maritime climate, characterized by two seasons depending on the rain. The best season to visit the Comoros is between May and November, during the dry season, when the weather is cool and relatively dry, while December to April is hot and humid. The maximum temperature can vary between 31ºC in December and 27ºC in August, while the average minimum varies between 23ºC in February and 19ºC in July.

Landscape

Volcanic islands whose interiors vary from steep mountains to low hills, with the highest point, Le Karthala (in Greater Comoros), at 2,361 m.

Talk

The official languages ​​are French and the Arab. Most Comorians speak their own language known as El Shikomor (Comorian), which is a group of Swahili dialects, as the first language and French as the second. Some also speak Arabic.

Finding someone who is fluent in English is very rare. However, an educated person will know a few words in English. The best option is to learn French because of its great influence in the media, education and business.

Each island has its own dialect. The greetings below are not necessarily direct translations.

Greetings almost always follow this pattern:

Greater Comoros

  • Yedje? (How are you?), answer: Ndjema (good)
  • Bariza ?, answer: Ndjema
  • Mahabari? (Some news?), answer: Salimina (peaceful)
  • Hufanyiha dje? (How are you?), answer: Ndjema
  • Na kozazidi? (Any problem?), answer: Raha (Not yet)
  • E ngawe mnono? (Are you in good health?), answer: Alhamdulilah (Thank allah)

Moheli

  • He he? (How are you?)
  • Ndjema (good)
  • Gushindu? (Are you in good health?)
  • Ewa (Yes)
  • Kumnono? (You feel good?)
  • Habari? (You are well?)
  • Salaama (In peace)

Any series of words with habari requires a response from salaama. The shikimor has several extensions of the greeting habari to indicate time, like habarizaho or habarizasobwuhi.

Other necessary words:

  • Ewa (Yes)
  • A-a (do not)
  • Marahaba (Thank you)
  • Marahaba menji (Thanks a lot)
  • Swamahani (I'm sorry)
  • Pvapvo (there / used to tell the taxi driver where you want him to stop)
  • Pvano (there / same use as above, but the driver will probably brake)

To get

Everyone needs a visa to visit the Comoros, which is issued upon arrival. A normal visa costs € 61. It can be paid in Comorian francs, US dollars, British pounds, or euros. A visa lasts 45 days, and while it can be extended, the authorities likely won't unless you have a good reason. All visitors must report to the immigration office in Moroni or Mutsamudu to obtain an additional passport stamp. Otherwise, there will be problems at the exit.

As of November 2018, the Comoros visa is issued upon arrival at Moroni airport. The price is € 30 or US $ 50 in cash. Make sure you have the exact amount, because there may be no change. Also, there are no ATMs or currency exchange offices inside or around the airport, so it is best to have the money for a visa before your arrival. You will need to write down a place of residence in Comoros during your stay on the immigration form, however this is not marked.

After immigration, your luggage could be searched, however it would look like a questioning by genuine security officers and you are not seeking bribes.

By plane

  • Kenya Airways now flies direct from Nairobi, three times a week, connecting with flights from London, Dubai, Mumbai Y Paris.
  • Ethiopian Airlines flies daily direct from Addis Ababa via Dar es salaam, with connections to more than 100 destinations around the world.
  • Air Austral flies from Paris Y Marseilles with a change of planes in Saint Denis, Meeting.
  • Inter Iles Air flies from Mayotte to Anjouan and Moroni several times a week.
  • African Express connects with Mombasa, Dubai.
  • Precision Air flies from Tanzania three times a week.
  • Air Madagascar flies almost daily from Madagascar.

Boat

There are freighters leaving from Zanzibar or Dar es Salaam (in Tanzania) Y Madagascar. They are generally cheaper than flying, but they take longer and departure dates are less reliable. To travel in one you must meet the captain of the ship in the port and discuss the prices. If you negotiate a lot, you can get a ticket for € 100.

Travel

By plane

Int'Air Îles flies between Moroni, Anjouan and Moheli daily. In Moroni his office is near the Volo Volo Market.

By car

It is possible to rent cars in Greater Comoros for approximately CF15,000 to CF25,000 (€ 30 to € 50) for one day, depending on the type of car. In Moheli there are no rental agencies, but you can still try to rent a car or motorcycle directly from a local with the help of your hotel. The price of gasoline varies from island to island. While you can pay CF600 (€ 1.2) per liter in Greater Comoros, the price in Moheli (where gasoline is in short supply) can go up to CF1000 (€ 2) per liter.

Each island has a main road around it. Road conditions can be really bad in certain parts, but normal vehicles without 4WD can still drive.

Hitchhiking is a very common practice among the locals, especially in Moheli, where there are fewer transportation options. If you look like a tourist, you may be asked for a fee. As locals do not have access to public transportation and children have to walk to and from school, tourists with cars may consider helping hikers.

By public transport

Each capital is connected by buses to the towns on their respective roads. The buses are generally full, do not have a fixed schedule, and stop showing up long before sunset.

Shared taxis are the most common mode of public transportation within cities.

Boat

There are speedboats that operate from Chindini on the south coast of Greater Comoros, to Hoani on the north coast of Moheli. These are small fiberglass fishing boats with engines in varying conditions. They should be taken only on days when the sea is calm, as passengers have been forced to unload luggage at sea and ships are rumored to be lost. However, these boats are generally safe to take on calm days. Anyway, it is always advisable to ask for a life jacket. The boats leave Chindini every morning and the journey takes about an hour. The price is CF10,000 (€ 20) as of November 2008, plus an additional CF500 council exit tax. Some tourists have been asked for a special permit from the police.

The cargo ships that cover the route between the three capitals of the island also accept passengers. You will have to ask at the port or find an agency, and expect longer travel times (up to 12 hours from Moroni to Moheli). The price from Moroni to Fomboni in Moheli is CF10,000 per person.

The Maria Galanta company operates the Moroni - Moutsamoudou (Anjouan) - Dzaoudzi (Mayotte) route twice a week. Beginning in October 2018, the ship departs Moroni on Thursdays and Sundays, and the return trip is on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The duration of each trip is 5 hours. The price for Anjouan is € 36 one way and € 140-158 to Mayotte. The maximum limit of luggage allowed is 20 kg plus 10 kg of hand luggage.

Watch

  • Lac Sale - salt lake adjacent to the beach at the northern tip of Greater Comoros. A path leads to the top of the rocks that surround the lake. Along the way there is a small souvenir stall, which usually sells ylang-ylang oil, jackfruit perfume, jasmine, and seashells. Ask the souvenir vendors to tell you about the lake and they can tell you how they think the lake water and algae cure acne (a 1 liter bottle of this mix costs 5000KMF) and they will even put it in the lake to show you the process.
  • Dolphins off the coast, beyond Hahaya.
  • Livingstone bats in Moheli.
  • Giant Sea Turtles laying eggs at Itsamiya in Moheli.
  • Swahili-inspired architecture with arcades.
  • White sand beaches - Maloudja beach in Mitsamiouli is probably the most beautiful and popular. Other beach destinations, some with nearby bungalows, include Ndroude and Bouni in the northeast of Greater Comoros, Chomoni in the southeast, and Chindini in the south.
  • The old Moroni Mosque and the medina next to it are famous for their narrow streets and maze-like architecture.
  • Dragon's Tail - this impressive mountainous peninsula jutting out of Greater Comoros is located just outside the northeastern village of Ivoini and is a beautiful sight and thrilling hike.
  • Tortuga Island - also called Choua cha Ndroude in Shingazidja or Île des Tortues in French, is the only outlying island surrounding Greater Comoros located in the northeastern town of Ndroude. Depending on the time of the month, at low tide you can walk from the beach to the island and spend a couple of hours enjoying the sea breeze, sunbathing and watching the local fishermen. However, be sure to bring some kind of footwear for when you get to the island, as the volcanic rocks get very hot in the sun and you don't want to be barefoot on the island.
  • Kaviridjeo Palace - Built in the 16th century, these ruins in the village of Iconi, south of Moroni, used to be the home of the Sultan of Bambao until the 19th century, when the last sultan, Said Ali bin Said Omar, united them all different sultanates in Greater Comoros to form Ngazidja, then signed an agreement that allowed the French to colonize the island. A recently built large mosque is also located across the street, with a large pool that fills at high tide and drains at low tide. Between the two is a small plaque commemorating the victims of a massacre led by former President Ali Soilih's youth brigade in the 1970s.
  • The Moheli Marine Reserve off the coast of Nioumachoua, between the beautiful outlying islands to the south.

Do

  • Hikes like the crater of the Karthala volcano (8 hour walk one way). Guides available for € 100. This can be done as a long day hike for € 60 or overnight in a base camp which is a settlement of 5-8 tin sheds.
  • Cycling
  • Deep diving, snorkeling
  • Sailing on a dhow
  • Swimming with dolphins - There are several places in Grande Comore that offer this, and Itsandra, north of Moroni, it is the most popular and costs only 10,000KMF.
  • Swimming with stingrays: an exclusive activity of Nioumachoua In Moheli, seeing the stingrays is often unpredictable, but the Laka Lodge hotel staff can organize this trip and the guides are experts in looking for them.
  • Hiking: there are numerous places for this, including in the northeast of Greater Comoros, where dozens of small mountains, most with small paths for farmers to reach their fields, dot the landscape; Chezani and other neighboring towns are good points of departure for this. You can also walk from Fomboni, the capital of Moheli, until NioumachouaBe careful though, this is a challenging and long but beautiful and rewarding hike. Anjouan is also full of dizzying peaks and beautiful waterfalls ready to be climbed. A large and intimidating mountain is also located in the village of Iconi on Grande Comore and has a very simple path to the top with some stunning views of the village and its surroundings, although the trailhead is hidden next to a little corner shop and you will probably have to ask a local to show you where is located to find it.

To buy

Money

Comoros franc exchange rates

As of January 2020:

  • FOB Price: US $ 1 ≈ CF440
  • € 1 ≈ CF490
  • UK £ 1 ≈ CF580

Exchange rates fluctuate. Current rates for these and other currencies are available on XE.com

The country's currency is Comorian franc, in Moheli denoted by the symbol " CF "(ISO code: KMF). Tourists will often receive the price in euros as well, if only for reference. In these cases, an invariable exchange rate of € 1 = CF500 is used.

It is best to bring euro notes to the island. They can be exchanged in most stores for a price slightly higher than the official rate (€ 1 = 500 francs). Please note that barely noticeable torn notes will not be exchanged. There are four ATMs in Moroni in roughly the same area. Most declined the UK-issued Mastercard debit card for no apparent reason, despite the machine's logo indicating that it accepts the card type. A bank charged around 10% of the total withdrawal amount as transaction fees. Therefore, it is more profitable to bring cash in euros. Another hard currency could be exchanged at an exchange house.

Shopping

The handicrafts are usually not of good quality, although the women of Mayotte, as well as some women of Great Comoros, make quality baskets. One can buy CDs, colorful fabrics worn by women (CF500 for a numbawani and CF750 for a finer shawl), beautiful scarves (CF2,000), and other imports.

Most of the tourist handicrafts and curios sold at the Volo Volo Market in Moroni are made in Madagascar and sold by Malagasy expats in the market. Local crafts are hard to find, but some are available at CNAC in Itsandra. In other parts of the Volo Volo market you can find unique gifts from the Comoros. Consider locally grown spices and essential oils, homemade lamps and vegetable peelers, or products made from coconuts.

Do not buy shells from the vendors on the beach.

Costs

Because the Comoros are isolated islands, prices tend to be more expensive than in the rest of East Africa. The cheapest hotels or bungalows in Moroni (the most expensive accommodation region in the Comoros) can cost € 20 or as low as € 10 if you haggle a lot. On the other hand, the Hotel Moroni can cost hundreds. Imported products are cheaper in Greater Comoros than in Moheli, but fruits and vegetables are cheaper, although less available, in Moheli. Meals in a brochetterie (cheap restaurant serving fried meat and bananas, cassava, taro or breadfruit) can cost up to CF1500 (€ 3) in Great Comoros and as low as KMF250 (€ 0.50) in Moheli. The cakes (sweet bread) sold by women on the street generally cost between 50 and 100 CF each. One could survive on around 6,000-10,000 CF (€ 12-20) per day for food and accommodation.

Eat and drink

To eat

Visitors are advised not to eat any of the local food unless it is well cooked. One specialty available on the island is jackfruit, a large green fruit (about 50 cm long) with a lychee-like flavor.

As for a small island country surrounded by the ocean, fish and shellfish are the main source of quality food for Comoros. The men set sail from the island early in the morning in boats to return before dark with a fish to sell.

An interesting gastronomic itinerary would be to observe the men who return from the sea with their catches. This is next to a port. Many locals are already hanging around to buy fish, meet friends, and just hang out. Sometimes the angler returns with larger fish, for example swordfish. Later, go to the Volo Volo market to see the same fish that is sold and killed. As a conclusion to the trip, visit the local restaurants of the city to taste seafood. The daily menu will vary depending on the catch of the day.

Delicious and popular foods from the Comoros include:

  • mabawa- Chicken wings, usually topped with a Dijon mustard marinade, mayonnaise, bell peppers, garlic, salt, and onion, perhaps with other variations, and grilled. You will find many mabawa vendors at night in Moroni and in many of the villages and especially around the Volovolo area. It is often served with breadfruit a la Grill, cassava or green bananasas well as with putu , a hot pepper-based sauce that varies in heat, flavor and color depending on who makes it and what other ingredients are included.
  • plot : Grilled corn, most available January through April.
  • madaba - cassava leaves, mashed with a huge mallet into a kind of paste with peppers, garlic and other ingredients before boiling and serving them with rice and sometimes with minced fish inside.
  • mkatre foutra - A small, round and tasty bread eaten for breakfast, usually sold for 100 km each.
  • sambusa - the Comorian version of a samosa. It contains grated fish and spices, although each person's sambusa will have a different flavor. Depending on the size and where you buy them, they can cost anywhere from 25KMF to 100KMF.

There are good European-style restaurants in the capital and larger towns on all the islands.

  1. Le Coraya, Bandamadji, Itsandra, Greater Comoros, [358 88 88]. Monday through Thursday from 8 a.m. M. At 11:30 p. M., Friday to Saturday from 8 a.m. M. A 1 a. M., Sun. 9 a. M. At 11:45 p. M .. Located in the town of Itsandra, north of Moroni, Le Coraya offers everything from burgers to pizza, pasta and seafood, as well as alcohol and hookah. Enjoy a relaxing meal as well as some of the best restaurant views in Comoros as it sits right on the Indian Ocean next to the beach. Anywhere from EUR 6 - EUR 20 for a main course. (updated May 2020 | edit)
  2. Le Coraya Express, Boulevard de la République Populaire de China, Moroni (Across the street from the Sawa Prix supermarket and the École Française Henri Matisse, a few blocks from the French Embassy.), [87 87]. 10:30 a.m. M. At 10 p. M .. A smaller version of Le Coraya with limited hours, a smaller menu and a much less spectacular view. Especially known for its pizzas and sandwiches. Another Le Coraya Express location is also within Hahaya Airport. EUR 4 - EUR 9. (updated May 2020 | edit)
  3. New Mumbai, Rue de la Corniche, Hankounou, Moroni (In front of the Alliance Française there is a gas station and a travel agency, with the entrance to the restaurant interspersed.), [339 59 34]. A quaint little restaurant serving Indian and Chinese food by the ocean. Sitting by the ocean gives you the best sea breeze, but you also risk seeing local men bathing naked in the nearby water. To get there from Moroni, tell a taxi driver that you are going to Alliance Française, otherwise they may not know where to go. Tickets from 6 EUR to 10 EUR. (updated May 2020 | edit)
  4. L'Escale, Rue de la Corniche, Moroni (Across the street from the medical laboratory), [96 57]. Sundays to Thursdays from 11 a.m. M. At 10:30 p. M., Closed on Fridays. Elegant restaurant offering more traditional Comorian food and lots of seafood, as well as sporadic live shows. As of spring 2020, bungalows are being built on the grounds. 6 EUR - 12 EUR. (updated May 2020 | edit)
  5. Wasta, Caltex, Moroni (At Rue Itsambuni, turn into the side street that intersects directly in front of the old airport.), [77 75]. 7 a. M. A 11 p. M .. The closest thing to fast food you'll find in Comoros, Wasta has cheeseburgers, pizza, burritos, fries, and even birthday cakes. 3 EUR - 10 EUR. (Updated May 2020 | edit)
  6. MoCafe, Oasis Matelec, Moroni (Up the street from Alliance Française or down the street from the end of Volovolo, on the same lot as the AB Aviation office and close to the Air Madagascar / Air Austral offices.), [773 22 06]. Monday to Saturday from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sun. From 7 a.m. to 12pm. A small stylish cafe offering many baked goods from the Comoros and France, as well as sandwiches, tea, soft drinks and fresh juice. EUR 2 - EUR 6 for bread or sandwich (updated May 2020 | edit)
  7. Nassib, Volovolo Market, Moroni (Walking down the street through Volovolo is in the middle). 6 a. M. At 10 p. M .. A combination of café and restaurant in the middle of Volovolo, the outside porch is the best place to sit for a traditional morning tea and bread or a delicious burger and fries in the afternoon. Other Nassib franchises are found in some other Moroni locations. EUR 2 - EUR 8 for a bread or a full meal. (updated May 2020 | edit)
  8. Tennis club, Rue de la Corniche, Moroni, [11 03]. Combination of restaurant, bar and tennis club. It serves some of the best western cuisine in Comoros, as well as some of the best wines. Sit down for a good meal or go play a game of tennis on their courts. (updated May 2020 | edit)
  9. Chez Nini, Sima-Maloudja, Mitsamiouli, Greater Comoros (From RN 1 in Mitsamiouli, follow the dirt road near the beach towards the wedding hall until you reach the restaurant.), [05 15]. Tuesday to Thursday from 5 p.m. at 10 p.m., Friday, Sunday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturdays from 11 a.m. at 12 a.m., closed on Mondays. A bit hidden from the main road in Mitsamiouli but on the way to the best beach in town, Chez Nini offers seafood, chicken, traditional local vegetable dishes, desserts, and alcohol. They also host different events and parties for special occasions like the New Years, so keep an eye on their Facebook page on days like that to see if anything exciting happens. From Tuesday to Thursday only the bar is open and no meals are served. EUR 6 - EUR 12. (Updated May 2020 | edit)Swordfish catch in Moroni

Fish section in Moroni's Volo Volo market

To drink

Alcohol is available in Moroni from Indian and Chinese merchants near Volo Volo. Castle beer from South Africa and cheap boxed wine from France are common. Most upscale restaurants sell alcohol and there are a couple of liquor stores in Moroni; You can always see a place that openly sells alcohol because they usually have a green Heineken sign outside.

Local water is generally not safe to drink, not even in hotels, but bottled water is cheap (usually 1.5 liters per 400 km / h) and is available everywhere. Despite the risks associated with water, locally made juices are very delicious, especially the tamarind, the ntsongoma (strawberry guava), pineapple and the guava.

external links

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