Ivangorod - Ivangorod

Ivangorod (Ивангород) is a city of the Northwestern Russia inWestern Leningrad Oblast.

To know

Ivangorod has been for most of its history more or less in municipal union with Narva, as a minor partner. It was much more difficult to travel back and forth across the Narva River following the dissolution of the Soviet Union and the resulting poor relations between Russia ed Estonia, which divided the population (and somehow blocked those on the Russian side from the present city center).

Geographical notes

Ivangorod is a small town located on the right bank of the Narva River right on the Russian-Estonian border, 159 km west of St.Pietroburgo, opposite the Estonian city of Narva. Its most important monument is the Ivangorod fortress.

Background

The Ivangorod fortress was built in 1492 during the reign of Ivan III of Russia and therefore called like him. In the periods 1581-1590 and 1621-1704 it was controlled by the Swedish Empire. Despite other changes in territory and sovereignty, from 1612 to 1945 Ivangorod was considered to be part of Narva, on the opposite bank of the river.

After the collapse of the Russian Empire, theEstonia independent took control of the city of Narva which also included Ivangorod (in Estonian Jaanilinn) in January 1919 and all this was recognized by the treaty of Tartu. After the 1944 occupation of Estonia by the USSR in the Second World War, the Soviet authorities detached Ivangorod from Narva and transferred its territory to theLeningrad Oblast (Russian RSSF) in January 1945. City status was conferred on it in 1954.

After Estonia regained its independence in 1991, the border established in 1920 by the Tartu Treaty was considered only by Russia to be crossed by the borders established between the various republics by the Soviet authorities. According to the Estonian Constitution (art.2), however, the territory still belongs to Estonia, however Ivangorod remains for now to Russia. Due to the political tensions between the two countries, the new frontier has not yet been recognized.

How to orient yourself

How to get

Ivangorod is part of the border area. Visiting the city is cheaper with a visa for theSchengen area, which allows you to see the Narva Estonian at the same time. Not having a visa or permit to visit the border area, the chances of getting to Ivangorod are relatively low: buses and cars are usually checked at the checkpoint and border guards guard the train station. A pass can be obtained by contacting the FSB Border Directorate of the Russia to St.Pietroburgo and in the Leningrad region (St. Petersburg, Shpalernaya ul., 62) or via the unified portal of public services. The subscription is issued free of charge for up to one year. For border crossings towardsEstonia see the Narva article.

On the train

• 59.36783928.2339471 Ivangorod-Narvsky railway station. The night train between Tallinn is St.Pietroburgo stops here. There are one or two additional services per day from St. Petersburg. The station is actually located outside the city: you can get there by walking from the central square 500m towards St. Petersburg to the Lukoil petrol station, and then another kilometer or so along a road straight like an arrow to the south. Another way is to look for a path along the railway from the intersection on Via Gagarina, but this option is less preferable, as the road passes through the garages and is rather unpleasant. Buses do not go to the station, taxi drivers take it for 100 rubles (2017). You can order a taxi from the station to the city center by calling 7 (951) 679-33-90 and 7 (905) 281-78-44. The station is open 24 hours a day. Inside there is a waiting room, free toilets and a cash desk for night owls (18:00 - 5:30, break 1:00 - 2:00). The station is borderline, therefore, the platform is released only before the arrival of the train, but there is no excessive zeal in checking the documents of those who go deep into Russia.  

By bus

• 59.3771528.21852 Bus Station, via Hospitalnaya, 2 (In the central square), ☎ 7 81375 5-10-41. Ticket office: Mon-Fri 06: 15-12: 45 and 14: 15-20: 00, Sat-Sun 06: 45-12: 45 and 14: 15-20: 00. It's an old one-story building with a cash register, wooden benches, and a stagnant musty smell. From the St. Petersburg bus station on the Obvodny canal, a direct bus number 842 leaves daily at 12:00 and 21:00 (from Ivangorod leaves at 07:00 and 16:00). On Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday there is another flight departing from the bus station on the Obvodny canal at 17:30 (from Ivangorod leaves on the same days at 10:00). The fare is 300 rubles. Local residents also use the international buses from Tallinn and Riga (Lux Express, Ecolines, Temptrans), which do not stop at the bus station, but simply slow down on the central square before going to the border. In the opposite direction, the algorithm is the same, but the exact time of passage of buses through Ivangorod is unpredictable.Kingisepp, departing on average every hour. In addition, taxi drivers are on duty at the bus station, offering to get to Kingisepp for the price of a bus. 

How to get around

What see

Center

• 59.37472228.2077781 Ivangorod Fortress. 100 RUB (2013). 10:00-18:00. Established by Ivan III in 1492, today it functions as a museum. The fortress was built in several stages. In 1492 the central part was laid: a small quadrangular platform, located near the river itself. This small castle became an aid in the defense of the Narva pass, however, it was impossible to place a large army there at any wish, so in 1496, after the capture of Ivangorod by the Swedes, the expansion of the fortress began. In record time, new fortifications are being built, now known as the city of Boyarsh 617 meters of walls, many towers - in short, the main part of the fortress. It was already possible to fight with such a castle, which was successfully made in the 16th century, and at the same time new fortifications appeared, including a new castle surrounding the fortress from 1492 (its ruins are still visible on the territory), and the city ​​of the Front, annexed to the fortress on the side of the present Friendship Bridge. In those years a tacit competition took place between Narva and Ivangorod: the residents of Ivangorod tried to build a wall behind which it would be impossible to see anything from the tower of the Narva Castle - this is exactly the wall that separates the old part of the fortress from the city by Boyarshi. It is really abnormally high.

You can enter the fortress during the official opening hours, but you can also enter at other times: the important thing is to find a guardian who will let everyone in for a reasonable reward or without it. There are no signs, no fences, so an inspection of the fortress is an event at your own risk. The unofficial route starts from the entrance staircase and continues along the walls towards the ancient castle, up to the observation deck and beyond the southern ramparts, around which several rusty cannons are scattered. The path contains unlit corridors and stairs, so it is advisable to bring a flashlight with you and in general to pay attention, although, perhaps, this disorganization is the most interesting feature of the Ivangorod Fortress: here you can climb the walls and the limitless towers, descend into the courtyards and in general touch history ... Unlike Koporya, the conditions of the fortress are quite good, as it was completely restored during the Soviet era. From the walls there are excellent views of Narva, the Friendship Bridge and the Narva hydroelectric power station - you won't see any of this from the city.

There are two paths leading to the fortress: it is more convenient for pedestrians to descend from the central square along the main road and bypass the customs office on the left - there is a beaten path from which the work of the border crossing can be observed. If you want to drive up to the fortress, drive south along Gagarin Street, turn into Narovskaya Street (right) and from it into Pskovskaya Street (also right), at the end of which there is a small parking lot.  

• 59.3748828.206572 Church of the Assumption (In the fortress). A bizarre building, as if it were put together by two independent single-domed churches, which, together or separately, are completely different from Novgorod, or Moscow, or any other Russian architectural tradition. There is no reason to suspect German or Estonian influence either, so the question of which aliens appeared in medieval Ivangorod remains open to this day. We only know that the Church of the Assumption, like the nearby Church of Nicholas the Wonderworker, was built (at least built of stone) during the reign of Ivan the Terrible, around 1558. Both churches are very squat and completely hidden behind the walls. of the fortress, but at the same time their domes are huge and take up almost half of the building, and in the Church of the Assumption there is also a large gallery. Not far from the churches, there is a dilapidated arsenal building.  
• 59.3746728.20693 Church of San Nicola the Wonderworker (In the fortress). One-domed church on the territory of the fortress. 

The development of the center of Ivangorod is absolutely uninteresting. Its best manifestation is the post-war two-story residential buildings along Gagarin Street. Among these stands out a typical recreation Center (Gagarina st., 6) and one watchtower bright yellow standing in front of it 5 (San Gagarin, 5). Everything else is completely boring, even those few buildings that could have survived from pre-revolutionary times.

Sailfish

A separate area of ​​Ivangorod, located south of the fortress on the island between the natural eastern branch of Narva and an artificial drainage channel. This is an old workers' quarter at the former linen and sail factories, dating back to the 19th century.

The development of Parusinka it is extremely heterogeneous. At first glance, this is a boring area of ​​ugly Soviet buildings, but upon closer inspection, a huge layer of pre-revolutionary architecture is revealed here: the workers' shacks along Lnopryadilnaya Street 6 (houses from 17 to 23) and houses on Tekstilshchikov Street 7 It is noteworthy that neither one nor the other is completely different from the usual industrial cities built of dark red bricks, such as in Tver Proletarka, Noginsk and in other cities of the Russian Empire. The houses on Tekstilshchikov Street can generally be mistaken for Stalinist architecture, which is partly true, as the neighborhood's industrial and residential buildings were badly destroyed and rebuilt with significant changes after the war. One of the buildings even has a post-war spire. However, initially these houses were part of a textile factory and were transformed into residential after the war.

• 59.3591928.207744 Factory hospital (Рабочие казармы), st. Kotovsky, 1. Almost symmetrical hospitals "in honor of the 300th anniversary of the House of the Romanovs" were built in 1913 on both banks of the Narva River. But if the Narva hospital has retained its former grandeur and hospital function, the Parusinka hospital has been transformed into a branch of the Aerospace University of St. Petersburg and has lost some of the original furnishings, although the features of Art Nouveau are still visible here: perhaps this is the most harmonious and optimistic building in Parusinka. On the side wall is a half-erased plaque dedicated to the 300th anniversary of the Romanov House. 
• 59.3577128.202495 Stieglitz factory (Дореволюционные дома на улице Текстильщиков) (Start of st. Pastorova). It turned out to be on the territory of Russia and is now gradually collapsing: through the fence you can see only massive buildings made of dark red brick. Also of interest is a small gas tank (later a factory canteen) on the corner of Tekstilshchikov Street and Pastorova Street - it's worth climbing inside and examining a large round room with graceful columns. 
• 59.3552728.207186 Narva hydroelectric power plant (Заводская больница). The hydroelectric power plant was built in the mid-1950s. provide electricity to the Leningrad metro. It is located on the northern tip of the island, right on the border, and is therefore a doubly safe structure, completely closed to outsiders. The best views of the hydroelectric power plant are from the Estonian coast or from the walls of the Ivangorod fortress. However, you will not see anything special: in terms of architecture, the Narvskaya HPP is very similar to the Volga power plants of pre-war and early post-war construction. It is very interesting to observe the hydroelectric power plant during the flood period, when the stream flows directly through the spillway, raises foam and creates turbulence throughout the lower reaches of the Narva. 

• 59.355928.2017 Waterfall on the Narva (Фабрика Штиглица), st. Textile workers. The Narva River forms a kind of gorge with two protrusions. On one of them is the Narva hydroelectric power plant, and the second is a low, but rather impressive waterfall. However, it is relatively rare to see it. In normal times, all the water is directed to the hydroelectric power plant, that is, along a branch that runs from the east of Parusinka. At the same time, the eastern branch of the Narva River itself (i.e. the one along which the border runs) turns into a dry rocky channel and looks completely unpresentable. Water is only allowed in cases where the Narva reservoir overflows, after heavy rain or during a period of flood. If you are lucky and the waterfall "works", go to the beginning of Tekstilshchikov Street (100 meters south of the Narva-2 border crossing): from there the best view of the waterfall itself and the Krenholm factory. 
• 59.3677828.210748 Trinity Church (Нарвская ГЭС) (On the southern edge of the island). The Trinity Church was built in 1873-75. in the best tradition of neo-Russian architecture: the stylization is so well done that the church can be inadvertently mistaken for the 17th century. It was built as the family tomb of Baron A.L. Stieglitz, but at the same time as a church for workers in the industrial village, and also in a picturesque location: on the banks of the river overlooking the Narva reservoir. From the town border, walk to the church for 10-15 minutes, through the park, which used to be the estate of Stieglitz. The church is also clearly visible from the Estonian coast. 

Events and parties

What to do

• 59.3763628.206341 Northwestern Russian Military-Defensive Architecture Museum (Red House, Красный дом), Kingiseppskoe Highway, 1 (Between the fortress and the Friendship Bridge), ☎ 7 81375 5-17-92. 50 rub. Summer: Wed-Sun 10 am-6pm. Northwestern fortress models and archeology. It is interesting to note that just in front of the museum there is a stretch of the ancient asphalted road that leads to the old bridge, of which only parts of the pillars remain. 
• 59.376528.21782 Ivangorod Art Museum (Ивангородский Художественный музей), Kingiseppskoe shosse, 6/1 (Panteleev Palace), ☎ 7 81375 51-792. Wed-Sun 10: 00-18: 00. A boring provincial museum, whose exhibition presents the landscapes of the Leningrad region and the works of Bilibin, artist, illustrator of Russian fairy tales. There is also an information center here. 

Shopping

• 59.377428.22751 Magnet, Kingiseppskoe Highway, 22 (In the center). 9:00-21:00. Food supermarket. 
• 59.358228.20752 Magnet, st. Kotovsky, 12-a (Parusinka). 9:00-21:00. Food supermarket. 
• 59.377428.22873 Pyaterochka, Kingiseppskoe Highway, 26 (In the center). 9:00-22:00. Grocery supermarket. 
• 59.3748828.221334 Pyaterochka, st. Matrosova, 2 (In the center). 9:00-23:00. Grocery supermarket. 
• 59.358128.206235 Pyaterochka, st. Linen, 13 (Parusinka). 9:00-22:00. Grocery supermarket. 
• 59.376928.220956 Market, Kingiseppskoe Highway, 14. Chaotic street trade, which houses a cheap and unreliable restaurant. Here you can also change the currency manually. 
• 59.3758228.218887 Sberbank, st. Gagarin, 1. Mon-Fri 9: 00-18: 00, Sat 10: 00-15: 00. ATMs, terminals, currency exchange. 

There are no private money exchange offices in Ivangorod - they are all located at Narva.

How to have fun

Night clubs

The Vityaz restaurant offers drinks and snacks, while a more significant nightlife can be found at Narva or Kingisepp.

Where to eat

Average prices

• 59.37628.217311 Canteen n. 2, Gagarin Street, 1. 09:00-20:00. The closest place to the border crossing where you can have breakfast, lunch or dinner. The choice of food is great. 
• 59.3771828.22252 Elena coffee shop, Kingiseppskoe shosse, 20 (In the center). 10:00-22:00. Typical provincial café with a mundane interior 
• 59.3769928.224863 Cafe Time, Kingiseppskoe shosse, 22G (In the center), ☎ 7 952 397-11-10. Something like a city coffee shop: modern interiors, desserts, cafes. Free WIFI. 
• 59.377128.218194 Mother-in-law's Cafe Pancakes, st. Hospital, 2 (Close to the bus station), ☎ 7 931 228-92-91. Pancakes: 50/100 RUB (2014). Pancakes with various fillings and pizza. Those who cannot live without fast food will be offered a pancake hot dog. 
• 59.3697528.215825 Café-pizzeria Quiet courtyard, Mayakovsky street, 3 (At the hotel). 10:00-23:00. Nice coffee, delicious pizza. Wifi. 
• 59.3762128.220116 Cooking Dad well fed, st. Gagarin, 2 (In the center). 10:00-20:00. Nice shop selling local salads and pastries, but sadly there are no tables to eat. 
• 59.3595728.207847 Kitchen, st. Linen spinning, 21 (Parusinka). 10:00-20:00. Unlike the food in the city center, there are at least tables here, but you can only stand behind them. 
• 59.3756428.221898 Vityaz restaurant, Kingiseppskoe shosse, 7 (In hotel). Sun-Thu 12: 00-1: 00, Fri-Sat 12: 00-2: 00. A decent restaurant by province standards. In the afternoon, fixed economic meals. Free WIFI. 
• 59.3718628.214039 Fishmonger (Crossing of Narovskaya and Pskovskaya streets). Mon-Sat 10: 00-18: 00, Sun 10: 00-16: 00. A shop that not only sells fresh fish, but also offers to eat this fish in the form of fish soup or something else tasty. Inside there is a real café with tables and tablecloths: one of the most decorous in the city. 
• 59.3553828.206710 Dining room of the Technical and Humanitarian Institute of the SUAI section, st. Kotovsky, 1 (Parusinka). Lunch: 80-120 rubles (2012). Mon-Fri 10: 00-15: 00. 

In the morning, when all these places are closed, tourists have no choice but to eat in the shops open 24 hours a day at the petrol stations located along the Kingisepp highway (Neste, Tatneft, Aris, Lukoil, etc.).

Where stay

Average prices

• Vityaz hotels, Kingiseppskoe shosse, 7, ☎ 7 81375 5-17-53. Double: 2,100 / 2,500 RUB (2014). The only large central hotel in the city. All rooms have been recently refurbished with modern, clean and comfortable amenities. Free WIFI. It also offers tourists hostel accommodation in quadruple rooms with bunk beds. 
• Quiet yard hotel, st. Mayakovsky, 3, ☎ 7 81375 5-23-98, 7 81375 5-22-06. Double: 2,100 / 2,800 RUB (2014). Small hotel, more like a motel. All rooms are equipped with amenities: simple, but clean and comfortable. Visitors mostly praise. Free WIFI. 

Safety

How to keep in touch

Around

• Kingisepp - Formerly Yamburg, an ancient city with the ramparts of an old fortress and modest historic buildings.
• Narva - City Estonian across the river with an imposing castle, ramparts, pre-revolutionary workers' quarters and panoramic views of Ivangorod.
• Ust-Luga - A village on the shores of the Gulf of Finland, transformed into a large rapidly developing commercial port.

Other projects

• Wikipedia contains an entry concerning Ivangorod
• Commons contains images or other files on Ivangorod

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