 Almost there: the way from Bab el-Cailliaud to Qaṣr ed-Dāchla is not far. | ||
| Naqb el-Qaṣr · نقب القصر | ||
| length | 1.5 km | |
|---|---|---|
| height | 200 m | |
| location | ||
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The Naqb el-Qasr (also Negeb el-Qasr, Arabic:نقب القصر, Naqb el-Qaṣr, „el-Qaṣr pass", Or Naqb ed-Dāchla, Naqb el-Farāfra) is the only pass road through the limestone mountains in the north of the valley ed-Dāchlato post from here el-Farāfra over the slopes Darb el-Farāfra to get. But it is anything but easy to cross the one and a half kilometer long pass with vehicles. That is why the modern trunk road to el-Farāfra leads around the mountains in the west. The landscape in the area of the pass, especially the two rock gates Bab el-Jasmund[1] and Bab el-Cailliaud, are appealing in every way. And there are few destinations where this is so precisely true: the path, the pass, is the goal. The locals know the gates mentioned, of course, but not their modern names given by European travelers.
background
The approximately 300 kilometer long trunk road from ed-Dāchla to el-Farāfra leads south and west around the nameless limestone mountains in the north of the ed-Dāchla depression along the former desert route Darb Abū Minqār around. There is almost no getting through the mountains except for Naqb el-Qaṣr. In the most difficult places, the ground consists of loose sand, so that the pass is difficult to negotiate even for off-road vehicles. It's easier on foot or with pack animals. And for caravans of this kind the way is worthwhile: the approximately 200 kilometers long Darb el-Farāfra is one hundred kilometers shorter than the trunk road.
The pass road has been used for transports between ed-Dāchla and el-Farāfra at least since Roman times in the first centuries AD, possibly even earlier. The mountain cuttings are all silted up and make the passage difficult. This is why the pass was paved at some point in the past.
The limestone mountains in the north of the valley are a real barrier. There are only two places where it can be passed: here at Naqb el-Qaṣr on the way to el-Farāfra and about 60 kilometers further east where the Darb eṭ-Ṭawīl to the Nile Valley.
The few expeditions in the 19th century that led from el-Farāfra to ed-Dāchla also chose the route over the Darb el-Farāfra. So also the expedition of the German Africa explorer Gerhard Rohlfs (1831–1896) in 1874. In his work Three months in the Libyan desert describes the crossing of the pass and the effort of his photographer Philipp Remelé (1844–1883) to capture the passport on photo plates a few days later.
The Rohlfs expedition reached Naqb el-Qaṣr on January 7, 1874:
- “The scenery became more and more magnificent and we stopped in amazement at around 2 o'clock in front of a narrow passage with vertical rock walls of the most peculiar shape. I inquired of all the guides whether this gate had no name and since it turned out that it was still unnamed, we decided unanimously to name the same 'Jasmund's Pass, Bab-el-Jasmund', and this inscription was made with Latin and Arabic letters written on the eastern rock face. Mr. von Jasmund deserves that we secured such a lasting memory for him in the history of Africa’s exploration.
- Less than half an hour later we reached an even more magnificent gate, formed by such colossal rocks that it would also be a tourist destination in Europe. The uncommon transparency of the Sahara air also made everything appear larger and the contours much clearer. In addition, there is the lack of vegetation, which naturally makes the forms of inorganic nature stand out even more sharply. Briefly on us these rock walls made the most wonderful impression. We named this second bottleneck in honor of our predecessor, the French Cailliaud, 'Bab-el-Cailliaud'. "[2]
A few days later, Philipp Remelé came back to take photographs of the passport with great difficulty:
- “During these days Remelé went on a trip to the Negeb-el-Dachel to take photos of the most picturesque points of the rock labyrinth that delighted us when we arrived at the oasis. This excursion was by no means without difficulties, as the whole photographic apparatus had to be transported for three hours. Because of this considerable distance Remelé felt compelled to bivouack in this wasteland; He had left his tent behind, so as not to strain the beasts of burden unnecessarily. Unfortunately this first attempt was completely in vain; a suddenly falling Samum [a hot sandstorm] hurled the apparatus against a rock and the finished plates were pierced by the sharp grains of sand with innumerable holes. Fortunately, Taubert, whose behavior in this catastrophe deserves all praise, was able to protect the photographic tent from being overturned by convulsively clinging to it; but a few minutes had sufficed to destroy the work of two arduous days. The courageous artist, however, was not deterred by this failure; In a few days Taubert, who also proved to be a skilled carpenter, had the badly battered camera obscura repaired and when the weather was more favorable, Remelé moved out again to replace what had been lost. This time his perseverance was rewarded with a complete success. However, few observers of the sheets 'Bab-el-Cailliaud', 'Bab-el-Jasmund', 'The Mountain of the Skies', 'Desert Landscape near Dachel' will suspect the difficulties and dangers under which the recordings were made. "[3]
getting there
On the one hand, one reaches this pass along the Darb el-Farāfra, best coming from el-Farāfra. The route can be tackled with both camels and all-terrain vehicles. So shortly before el-Qaṣr, there are still about twelve kilometers, but often the interest of the fellow travelers of a caravan or expedition for an extensive tour decreases.
On the other hand, as an experienced hiker, you can walk from Qaṣr ed-Dāchla or reach the pass with an all-terrain vehicle from different places in the valley. One crosses Qaṣr ed-Dāchla to the left of the El-Qasr Resthouse. At the northern end of the village, drive east to the 1 Sheik tombs(25 ° 42 ′ 8 ″ N.28 ° 53 ′ 7 ″ E). Now you can circle the foothills in the east, and then continue on the path in a north-westerly direction. The distance from Qaṣr ed-Dāchla to the pass is about eleven kilometers.
The entrance to the first rock gate, the 2 Bab el-Cailliaud(25 ° 46 ′ 0 ″ N.28 ° 51 '8 "E), represents the greatest challenge. The soft, sandy subsoil makes it almost impossible to drive up the rather short ascent, even with well-motorized all-terrain vehicles. Anyone who still manages to do it without aids such as sand sheets can claim to be able to drive a car. The descent, coming from the north, is much easier. As a pedestrian with or without pack animals, you have a clear advantage.
mobility
Going through or driving through the one and a half kilometer long pass, on the other hand, is easy. The path is even paved. If you want to have time to look and take photos, you can take a walk. But if you want to take a closer look around, you have to walk short climbs and occasionally trudge through soft sand.
Tourist Attractions
As already said: the way, the pass, is the goal.
The main attractions of the pass are its rock gates at the southern and northern ends. The names given to these gates by the Rohlfs expedition are indeed recorded on good maps, but completely unknown to the locals.
The southern gate, too Bab el-Cailliaud called by the Rohlfs expedition, consists of two steep limestone cliffs, which are best viewed from the north side. A sandy ascent leads to the gate. In the area of the gate there is a large limestone rock 3 Limestone cliffs in Bab el-Cailliaud(25 ° 45 ′ 59 ″ N.28 ° 51 '8 "E)that you can crawl under to find a shady spot. The paved path is completely silted up in the area of the gate.
The gate was named after the French Frédéric Cailliaud (1787–1869), who was one of the first Europeans to travel to and report on this valley in 1820.
The pass road about 200 meters above sea level then leads almost northwards, and you only need to follow the paved path. The paving is not contemporary. It is not known when and who had the pass road paved.
After a kilometer and a half you reach the northern end of the pass and another impressive rock gate, the 4 Bab el-Jasmund(25 ° 46 ′ 42 ″ N.28 ° 50 ′ 57 ″ E).[1] This gate also got its name from the Rohlfs expedition. They wanted to name the German Consul General for Egypt, Dr. [Karl Albert] Julius von Jasmund (1827–1879), grandson of the Württemberg State and Culture Minister Ludwig Helmuth Heinrich [Baron] von Jasmund (1748-1825),[4] to honor. He was able to achieve that the Egyptian Chedive, the viceroy of Egypt, Ismail Pasha (Reigned 1863–1879), contributed a grant of 4,000 pounds (about 80,000 marks) for the Rohlfs expedition.[5]
Behind the north gate, an ascent to the eastern rock plateau is worthwhile, from which one has an excellent view of the landscape and the gate.
If you like, you can climb up to the plateau west of the pass just behind Bab el-Jasmund on the way back. The path is not that easy because of the soft sand, but you will be rewarded with great landscapes.
kitchen
- El-Qasr Resthouse. Tel.: 20 (0)92 286 7013. The rest house is located in el-Qaṣr directly on the north side of the street. It has a back garden. Advance booking is recommended.
You can stock up on groceries in the shops on the trunk road and the street to the left of the El-Qasr Resthouse.
accommodation
Accommodation is available in courage, in Qasr ed-Dachla, in Biʾr el-Gebel and along this road to Mūṭ.
trips
It is a good idea to combine the visit of Naqb el-Qaṣr with that of Qaṣr ed-Dāchla, Deir el-Ḥagar and or Qārat el-Muzawwaqa connect to. The latter site is currently not open to tourists.
literature
- : Three months in the Libyan desert. Cassel: Fisherman, 1875, P. 3, 106 f., 133 f., Plate 4 opposite p. 106. Reprint Cologne: Heinrich-Barth-Institut, 1996, ISBN 978-3-927688-10-0 .
- Museum Schloss Schönebeck (Ed.): Photographs from the Libyan desert: an expedition by the Africa explorer Gerhard Rohlfs in 1873/74, photographed by Philipp Remelé. Bremen: Ed. Temmen, 2002, ISBN 978-3-86108-791-5 , Pp. 38-44.
