New Caledonia - Neukaledonien

New Caledonia(French: Nouvelle Caledonie) is a French overseas territory in Oceania. In older German literature there is also the term "Nova Scotia." White tropical sandy beaches and coral reefs for divers serve European desires.

Regions

New Caledonia and Vanuatu.
Provinces and localities of New Caledonia.
Typical landscape in the south of Grande-Terre.

New Caledonia consists of three provinces. The territory is formed by a large number of islands and archipelagos.

  • Grande Terre, the main island, with the locations:
    • Nouméa - Capital
    • Bourail
    • Cone
    • Thio
    • the surrounding New Caledonian barrier reef has been part of the world natural heritage since 2008.
  • Bandera Province Sud.svgSouthern province (Province Sud), with the Île-des-Pins (Kunié), so named because, as one of the few places, just enough conifers grew here to meet the needs of sailing ships.
  • Bandera Province Nord.pngNorthern Province (Province North). This also includes the coral reefs of the Belep Islands (Îles Bélep or. Dau Ar). Only on Belep Island itself is there a village.
  • Bandera Loyauté.pngLoyalty Islands (Province des Îles Loyauté). The largest island is Lifu, where the administrative center is Wé. Other islands are Ouvea and Maré.

Other goals

  • Chesterfield Islands (Îles Chesterfield). Trips to these uninhabited coral reefs are more of an expeditionary nature and require your own boat. Protected as a nature park since 2014. A travel intention is the nature conservation authority Direction des Ressources Naturelles to display.

background

"Noble savages" around 1880: Two Kanaken warriors with spears and penis protectors.

The oldest trace of human presence is the pottery Lapita culture around 1500 B.C.E. Racially, the population is divided into the indigenous Kanakswho still live in more or less traditional tribal associations in the hinterland. The French administration gives the chiefs a certain amount of authority.

Caldoches are the descendants of European and North African colonists or convicts, whose families have usually been resident here for more than a hundred years. France mainly used the south of the main island from 1864-1922 as a penal colony. After this Paris Commune uprising In 18721/2 around 8,000 socialist freedom fighters were banished here.

As Zoreils or Metros refers to new immigrants or (temporarily) posted people from France. Asians are above all descendants of the coolies who were brought from Indochina to work in the mines during colonial times.

An independence movement supported by the Kanaks, which first penetrated the world public through the hostage-taking in the Ouvéa cave in 1988, managed to hold an independence referendum in 2018. 57% of the population voted to stay with France.

Economically, the southern province is much better developed, the unemployment rate is significantly lower. Around four percent of economic output comes from tourism, four times as much are subsidies from France. The most important factor is nickel mining, but opencast mining has also devastated large areas.

getting there

Entry requirements

Even if New Caledonia, as a French overseas territory, is not part of the EU, the Schengen provisions apply. Theoretically, as everywhere in France, EU and EFTA citizens can enter with an identity card, but since there are no direct flights, a passport is required for the stopovers (for Australia with a visa). The aforementioned as well as Turks with an EU residence permit are allowed to stay for up to 90 days.

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Similar to Australia, strict regulations apply in New Caledonia Quarantine Regulations (French) and controls. Importing fresh groceries, home-made canned foods and many plants is basically forbidden.

Allowances over 17 years: 1000 cigarettes (only 200 if coming from Oceania), 2 liters of wine and 1 liter of spirits.

By plane

Cheap flights from Frankfurt, a little over € 2000 return, to Nouméa (no direct connection to France) are available in 2018 with Lufthansa or Qantas with changes in Singapore and on the Australian east coast. Air France and AirCalin are at least twice as expensive Tokyo Narita and Osaka or with Air Korea via Seoul. Because of the changes, you won't be arriving in less than two days.

There are flights from the Pacific region Nadi (Fiji), Tahiti and Port Vila (Vanuatu). For arrival and departure to Wallis and Futuna, also a French outskirts, you have to change here. AirCalin will fly Mon., Wed. and Fri.

The only international airport in the territory is the airport 1  La Tontouta (IATA: NOU). Tel.: 687 35.11.18. La Tontouta in the Wikipedia encyclopediaLa Tontouta in the Wikimedia Commons media directoryLa Tontouta (Q892783) in the Wikidata database.Connections to Paris (with a change), Tokyo, Osaka, Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Auckland, Papeete, Fiji, Wallis, Port-Vila. There is WiFi throughout the terminal. A branch of the BCI also changes the Fiji dollar and Vatu in addition to common currencies. Exchange office is in front of customs. SIM cards sells the post. The usual international car rental companies are represented as well as taxi companies (Overview). The usual security regulations in Europe apply, it is recommended to arrive 2½ – 3 hours before departure.

Domestic connections are available from Magenta Airport in Nouméa. There is no direct public transport connection between the two airports.

By boat

Outrigger canoe at the Île des Pins.
Yachts should check in in the 2  Capitainerie at Port Moselle. Tel.: 687 27.71.97. Only then may other islands be approached. Registration one hour in advance for VHF Kanal 67 (7.00-18.00). Customs quarantine questionnaire (French / English). Pets are brought ashore in quarantine. Even before leaving the area, the formalities can only be completed at the Nouméa port office, unless a permit for another port of departure has been requested two weeks in advance.

Numerous cruise ships visit the archipelago. It is usually created on gare maritime in Nouméa.

mobility

There are around 25 kilometers of white sandy beaches around Ouvéa.
Parts of the inland were devastated by the opencast mining on the main island, which is rich in minerals.

In the street

New Caledonia has a largely asphalt network of trunk roads, which on the Grande Terre outside of the greater Nouméa area essentially consists of one coastal road each along the two coasts and several connecting roads through the mountains. In the northern province in particular, the secondary routes are often just gravel roads. The network of petrol stations outside the greater Nouméa area is thin.
Many car rental companies require a minimum age of 25, and you must have had a driver's license for at least two years.

From Nouméa there are motorways in the direction of Mont Dore and Païta. The motorway toll for cars is approx. 100 CFP, i.e. € 0.82, per route. The road signs only meet European requirements in the southern province. In the northern province in particular, there are only a few signposts.

Almost all roads on the Loyalty Islands and Île-des-Pins are paved.

Road traffic regulations

The EU driving license is sufficient. The French road traffic regulations apply with European signs and right-hand traffic. The petrol prices are roughly at the European level, petrol stations in the country tend to close for lunch and at 6 p.m. Overall, the use of rental cars is unproblematic and in any case the best way to get around on the Grande Terre.

The locals have a brisk driving style, the maximum speed is officially 110 km / h, inner-city 50 km / h. It is driven more often when drunk than in Europe (permitted 0.5 ‰, 0.0 ‰ for new drivers). Four times as many people die in car accidents per capita than in the mother country. When driving overland, it is advisable to reach the destination at the latest when it gets dark, as the overland roads are extremely winding and not illuminated. Many rest areas have been set up along the streets, which are maintained by the local population and often used themselves.

bus and train

A rail network does not exist.

Details on the well-developed bus network: on Grande Terre and in Nouméa.

By plane

The hub for domestic flights is the airport close to the town magenta (5 km from downtown Noumea). The airline flies from here AirCalin the secondary islands (Ouvéa, Lifou, Tiga, Maré, Île-des-Pins, Belep) and the north of the Grande-Terre (Koné, Koumac and Touho). For a domestic flight back you should calculate 25,000 CFP. There is one for tourists Sightseeing flight pass, four segments that have to be used within one month cost 33700 CFP (2017), a saving of a good 40%. Domestic flights should be booked from Europe if possible, as special tariffs are available for tourists with larger free baggage allowances (20 kg instead of 10 kg). Hand luggage is limited to 3 kg and is checked. Baggage weighing more than 23 kg will not be carried. The taxi transfer to downtown Nouméa costs around 9000-12000 CFP (around € 75.00). Taxis cannot be expected at airports. It is therefore advisable to organize a transfer through the hotel, which is usually much cheaper (Nouméa-La Tontouta approx. 3000 CFP or € 25.00 per person).

Air Loyauté connects the islands of this group with small fan guns of the type DHC6-400.

By boat

Ferries operate between individual islands, mostly from Terminal in Nouméa, the Gare Maritime des Îles.
The operator of the catamarans is Betico. Apart from special trips on public holidays, the Île des Pins (2½ hours) and Loyalty Islands (Maré 4 hours, Lifou 5 hours) are served three times a week. There are three classes on board. Your ID will be checked at check-in, one hour before departure.

There is also a cargo ferry Compagnie Maritime des Îleswho makes weekly trips around the islands. Once a month will also Vanuatu served.

taxi

There are numerous taxis in and around Nouméa, and only there. The fares, with a taximeter, within the city are between 500 and 1500 CFP. Order ☎ 28 35 12.

Bicycle and moped

On the Loyalty Islands and the Île-des-Pins, the hotels offer rental cars as well as bicycles and mopeds. These are definitely attractive alternatives for exploring the islands.

language

Map of the distribution of the native languages.

The official and school language in the entire territory is French, which is understood and spoken almost everywhere. There are also about thirty different native languages ​​of the Kanak, each of which has only a few thousand speakers, sometimes even fewer. The most widely spoken of these Kanak languages ​​is that spoken in Lifou and Tiga Turn. The elderly in the tribal villages sometimes only speak the native languages.

Foreign language skills are not widespread outside of Nouméa. In the larger hotels, some of the staff speaks English or Japanese. However, one should by no means rely on this.

to buy

Curious emergency money after the First World War: a stamp affixed to a brass capsule with a glass lid, which determined the face value. Coveted collector's items today.
CFP of the series circulating from 2014.

The usual business hours are Mon-Fri. 7.30 / 8.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m., with an extended lunch break between 11.00 a.m. and 2.00 p.m. This also applies to gas stations in the country. Saturday is only open in the mornings.

There are ATMs on all inhabited islands, but these are often only accessible during the day.

currency

The national currency is the CFP (XFP), which is also in circulation in the other two French South Seas regions, French Polynesia and Wallis and Futuna. It is tied to the euro at a ratio of 119⅓, i.e. 1000 CFP = 8.38 €. The exchange of euro banknotes in francs is unproblematic because of the fixed exchange rate at the banks; only a flat exchange fee is charged. There are also ATMs in Nouméa and at the airports that can be used with most European bank cards. Payment by credit card is common in Nouméa and in hotels, but is generally not possible outside of Nouméa.

There are coins of 100 (rare), 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1 CFP and banknotes of 10,000, 5,000, 1,000 and 500 CFP in circulation. New notes were introduced in 2014 (the previous series was no longer legal tender as of Sept. 30, 2014). Similar to the euro coins, the coins have differently designed value sides in New Caledonia on the one hand and French Polynesia on the other. The other side shows the uniform Marianne and the inscription République Française. The coins of French Polynesia have unlimited validity in New Caledonia and vice versa.

Prices

The price level is high as most goods, especially food, are imported from France. A bottle of French wine costs from 1000 XFP upwards in the supermarket, a can of local beer around 150 XFP, a 1.5 liter bottle of mineral water around 100 XFP. Fruits and vegetables imported from Europe cost from around 500 XFP / kg upwards. But if you are unlucky you can also find an original French lobed head of lettuce for € 10 on offer.

kitchen

Restaurants usually open 11.00-14.00 and 18.00 / 19.00-23.00. If you want to dine in hotel restaurants as a non-guest, you usually have to order in advance. At noon, the best offer is often the one plat du jour or you dine in Snack, the local variant of a bistro. Roulottes are food trucks to be found relatively frequently.

Only about forty percent of the local food requirements are produced locally, the rest is imported, often from France. Starchy staples include rice, sweet potato, tapioca, taro, and yams. Paita are the local green beans, fruit bat is served occasionally. In the country, people often cook over an open fire, and on special occasions in the earth oven with hot stones. Coconut-, Light- and panda nuts as well as breadfruit tree fruits, pumpkin and papaya are part of the indigenous menu.

Bougna is a holiday dish traditionally baked in the earth oven by the Kanaks, made from taro, yams, bananas, sweet potatoes, coconut milk and, depending on your taste, chicken, pork or crabs.

The traditional diet also included sea turtles and manatees (dugong), but these days they are only allowed to be caught to a very limited extent.

beverages

The Grande Brasserie de Nouvelle-Calédonie is the local brewery. Imported and locally made brands are also available. There are French wines in every shop, they are much more valued than Chilean or Australian imports. Alcohol is only sold in stores Monday through Friday.

The Catholic missionaries brought coffee growing to New Caledonia. The locally grown varieties Leroy and Laurina are comparatively low in caffeine, but all the more expensive.

nightlife

The nightlife outside the capital is limited to (hotel) restaurants or privately organized with natives Kava-Getting. In any case, it ends early, in New Caledonia people like to get up early.

accommodation

The practice of offering almost no discounts for the use of double rooms by only one person makes a stay in New Caledonia even more expensive for individual travelers, since single rooms are rarely offered.

Real luxury hotels, apart from one house on the Île-des-Pins, can only be found in Nouméa. The only youth hostel is also in the capital. As a rule, you will book the resorts as a package tour, especially those that take an island all to themselves. Childcare is rare even in the family-oriented facilities. Prices are almost always given for occupancy by two people, discounts for single travelers are minimal. Breakfast, traditionally a meager affair in France, is also often not included. Bungalows under 5000 CFP will be hard to find.

“Holidays on the farm” (at Broussards) usually takes place on cattle farms, often horse rides are offered. With VP you should calculate from 9000 CFP in 2018.

Especially simpler accommodations (gîtes) close from Christmas / New Year, often for several weeks. Some simpler bungalow complexes allow camping on their premises.

There are also Accommodation with natives, so-called accueil en tribu or accueil chez l’habitant. Accommodation, often in traditional cases is 1500-6000 CFP, full board from 2000 CFP extra.

Learn

A red-bellied fruit pigeon (Ptilinopus greyii).

The numerous endemic plant species offer themselves to get to know. The excellent Tjibaou-Culture center in the capital explains the Kanak culture. Spread across the colony, there are around 4,500 in 350 locations Petroglyphs discovered.

activities

There are water sports in every conceivable form, including mechanized ones. Diving trips with two dives cost from 10,000 CFP. There is a decompression chamber in Noumea (emergency number ☎ 15). Diving centers must be licensed so that equipment is of good standard. Nouvelle Calédonie Plongée is the association of local diving centers. Those who are particularly interested in coral reefs will find the most beautiful places at the Île-des-Pins and the Loyalty Islands.

A good place to go for sailors is Cercle Nautique Calédonia.

Brochures on marked hiking trails are available from the tourist information office. Also the Direction des Ressources Naturelles has relevant information on the nature parks.

Whale watching boat trips are organized from July to September off the southern tip of Grande Terres and from Lifou.

Marry

Since 2009, non-residents in New Caledonia have also been able to get married (gays since 2013), a possibility that Japanese, Australians and New Zealanders like to make use of (the French have a waiting period of one month), and they are often given a honeymoon vacation package with them sold.
The paperwork is limited: informal letter of application (with a date requested) to the mayor together with birth certificates and any existing certificates of divorce, certified copy of the ID document and personal information about the parents of both those wishing to marry and the witnesses, of which at least two must be named. The actual ceremony takes place in the wedding hall of Nouméa town hall.

Work

A law has been in force since 2012 that gives preference to local residents when hiring. Foreigners take care of the paperwork required for a work permit (Mon-Fri 7.45-12.15) at Bureau des Étrangers in the capital, 11 to rue Paul Doumer.

public holidays

In addition to the general French holidays for the New Year, May 1st, the day of the German surrender May 8th, Bastille Day July 14th and the end of World War I on November 11th, the usual Catholic festivals are celebrated: Easter, Ascension Day May 13th 2021 , Whitsun May 23, 2021, Assumption Aug 15, All Saints Nov 1 and Christmas.
"New Caledonia Day" is September 24th.

The agricultural festival Foire de Bourail takes place in the first week of August.

health

The one living both on land and in water ricot rayé is the most venomous of the snakes found in New Caledonia. They are comparatively shy, but their venom can (very quickly) be fatal.
Under no circumstances should you touch washed-up, noticeably blue ones State jellyfish of the kind Physalia utriculus.

The European health insurance card is not valid in New Caledonia.

New Caledonia poses no major health risks. The most common illnesses when traveling to the tropics are diarrhea caused by the change, heat stroke due to lack of fluids and colds caused by frequent changes between rooms that are too cold and the hot air outdoors. The islands are malaria free. Because of the occurring Dengue fever but you should protect yourself from mosquitoes during the day. In addition to the standard vaccinations, vaccinations against meningitis are recommended, and hepatitis B for longer stays.

With the exception of Ouvéa, tap water is safe to drink anywhere.

The hygienic conditions are good. In hotels, European standards can be expected that are somewhat better than in mainland France. Accommodation in the tribes is often much simpler (tribus).

Twelve different species of sea snake live in the bays, many of which are poisonous. There are also some types of jellyfish whose nettle poison can cause painful skin reactions.

climate

Climate diagram Nouméa.

Online weather report
Tropical, over 25 ° C all year round, it is coolest in July and August. The rainy season is February to April, the least rain falls from September to November.

Water temperatures in winter (August / September) can drop to 20 ° C, in summer it is almost ten degrees warmer.

respect

In the country, a "hello" is also common to strangers. Melanesians tend to avoid looking into the eye of the other person when shaking hands (limp). You shouldn't touch your head. (Brochure "costumary gestures"). The “fait les bises” is also common here among French people at private meetings. Dinner invitations shouldn't be too long, as people in New Caledonia like to get up early.

La coutume, traditional customs determine how the natives interact with one another. When entering a chief's house (grande case usually near the church) you should present a small gift (money or cigarettes are fine). Events today usually take place in the chefferie named buildings. Elderly are treated with respect, women also respect men, which is expressed through restraint and silence. Certain areas are "taboo", you should also ask whether you may use the beach, take photos or wander around in the forest in the area of ​​private property or nearby villages. This is particularly true of native cemeteries. Villages should not be entered in swimwear. "Topless" is only possible on the beaches of Nouméa.

Homosexuality is legal and accepted, and gay marriage has been possible since 2013. Outside of the capital, where there are several gay bars, the society is comparatively conservative, so that expressions of love and openly displayed sexuality should generally be avoided.

Practical advice

The country code is ☎ 687; Information ☎ 1012
Emergency call: ☎ 17

broadcast

Télé Nouvelle-Calédonie is the public television broadcaster. Is produced by Outre-Mer 1ère near Paris. Canal Satellite offers paid private channels.
Radio Nouvelle-Calédonie is the state broadcaster. There is also Radio Djiido; Radio Rhythm Bleu (RRB); the world wide spread chain NRJ or Radio Océane.

post

Post offices can be found in all larger towns. Postage for postcards and standard letters to Europe costs 110 CFP, i.e. € 0.92. The duration is about a week. Postage stamps are also available in many souvenir shops.

Cellular and Internet

The local mobile phone and internet provider is the Post OPT. The latter is much less widespread than in Europe, so a look at the phone book can still be worthwhile. Under the trade name Mobilis coverage with 4G services will reach 82% of the population at the beginning of 2018 (3G (GSM), 4G coverage map). With wired Internet, ADSL is still standard, even on the outer islands.

A prepaid cell phone package is called a Liberté expelled. Sales points are every post office, but also at the airport. SIM cards cost 6200 CFP, with 3000 CFP credit that is valid for 90 days. You buy one to recharge IZI card at the post office or in the tobacco shop. A 5% fee is due, i.e. 3000 CFP credit costs 3150 CFP. There are separately bookable entrances for sailors (Internet Mobile Marina) and remote regions (3G naviweb). The Short term packages The OPT for mobile internet are small, expensive and slow (1 hour or 1 day). They are not worth their money. It makes more sense to Liberté- Card to book a permanent option.

There are few internet cafes, especially in Nouméa, but the prices are quite high. Most hotels have WiFi in all rooms or in certain areas, which is sometimes offered to guests free of charge. Free hotspots are only found in a few busy places in the capital.

literature

In addition to relevant Pacific travel guides:

  • Baumann-Bodenheim, Marcel Gustav; Systematics of the flora of New Caledonia (Melanesia - South Pacific): Basics, retrospectives and outlooks on 200 years of floristry and systematics on New Caledonian plants; Merenschwand 1989-92, (7 volumes published)
  • Cartacheff, Nathalie; Vie quotidienne aux îles Loyauté: Maré au temps des vieux; Paris 2012 (Harmattan); ISBN 9782296992504 ("Recueil de textes extr. De diverse revues et publications, 1935-1986")
  • Clair, Jean-Francis; New Calédonie Sauvage; Noumea 2009; ISBN 9782952080057 [Hiking guide available locally.]
  • Demmer, Christine; Trépied, Benoît; Coutume kanak dans l'État: perspectives coloniales et postcoloniales sur la Nouvelle-Calédonie; Paris 2017 (Harmattan); ISBN 9782343107189
  • Cregeen, Phil; Southern New Caledonia: a cruising yachtsman's notes on the southern part of New Caledonia, Noumea to Isle of Pines; Auckland, N.Z. 1996 (Capt 'Teach Press); ISBN 187719705X
  • Dreadful; Emil Rudolf; The Exiles of New Caledonia; Berlin 1979, 41990 [novel]; New edition 2015 ISBN 978-3-7380-1069-5
  • Kreisel, Werner; The Pacific Islands: A Territory; Berlin ²2004 (Borntraeger), ISBN 3443010520
  • Lucas, Alan; Cruising New Caledonia & Vanuatu; Cammeray [N.S.W.] 1981 (Horwitz Grahame) [For sailors, out of stock and outdated]
  • Marc, Joël [et al.]; Crosière en Nouvelle Calédonie; engl .: Cruising guide to New Caledonia (South Pacific): an anchorage and general yachting guide; Nouméa ³2001 (Savannah Editions); ISBN 2950853056
  • Mokaddem, Hamid; Yeiwéné ​​Yeiwéné: construction et revolution de Kanaky; Nouméa and Marseille [2017]; ISBN 9782917270172
  • Nevermann, Hans; Kulis and Kanaks: research trips to New Caledonia and the New Hebrides; Braunschweig 1942 (Wenzel)
  • Riess, Victoria; French Polynesia and New Caledonia on the path of "decolonization;" Neuendettelsau 2010 (Pacific Information Point)

Web links

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