South Korea - Südkorea

South Korea located in East asia on the southern half of the Korean Peninsula, between the Yellow Sea (in South Korea: West Sea) and the Sea of ​​Japan (in South Korea: East Sea), with only one land border North Korea. Geographically located between China and Japan, its culture has long been in exchange with the two neighboring countries.

Cities

A tumuli tomb in Gyeongju
Map of South Korea
  • Seoul: The capital of South Korea. Between the concrete castles of the metropolis there is, among other things, the royal palace and the impressive gates: above all the south gate Namdaemun and also the less visited east gate Dongdaemun.
  • Busan: Busan is the second largest city in South Korea and has one of the largest ports in the world. Busan offers the special flair of a port city with a few beaches and the largest fish market in Korea.
  • Gyeongju: The capital of the historical Silla Empire has a lot to offer: royal tombs, the world-famous Bulguksa Temple and a historical museum. In addition, a wonderful mountain world for hiking.
  • Suwon: The Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The fortress, completed in 1796, has 5.52 km long walls and 41 facilities.
  • Daejeon
  • Daegu
  • Gongju
  • Ulsan: A metropolis in the southwest of the Korean peninsula.
  • Incheon: Incheon is the third largest city in South Korea. It is located in the greater Seoul area and is also connected to the local transport network.
  • Buyeo
  • Jeonju with numerous traditional houses.

Other goals

  • Jeju: A beautiful island with a very pleasant climate. At the time when Koreans travel, you should refrain from visiting, because not only is it difficult to get a room, but all the sights are overcrowded.
  • Seoraksan: picturesque mountains with national park in northeast South Korea, with rugged cliffs. Paved paths lead through the Seorak Mountains, past Buddhist temples and through beautiful mountain forests with magnolias and maples (especially beautiful when the leaves are colored). The area is also known for its cuisine rich in wild vegetables.
  • Jirisan: National Park in the Jiri Mountains
  • Dadohae Haesang Marine National Park
  • Demilitarized zone (DMZ): The limit to North Korea, a relic of the Cold War.

background

history

Gyengbokgung Palace in Seoul

Korea can look back on several thousand years of history, even if it was rarely a closed country during that time. It was often divided into different kingdoms and even today it is divided into the democratic South Korea and the communist North Korea. Nevertheless, the Koreans see themselves as one of the oldest peoples who live in one and the same place.

The Korean empires paid tribute to the emperor of China for a large part of its history; the Korean peninsula was a colony of the Japanese empire for around 50 years until the end of World War II. Located between the two great powers China and Japan, Korea has always been exposed to the influence of both sides, which can still be felt today.

Between 1950 and 1953, almost the entire country was destroyed in the Korean War. Officially, South Korea is still at war with North Korea due to the lack of a peace treaty. There are therefore always incidents between the two armed forces, but tourists do not have to worry in principle.

getting there

Entry requirements

German citizens can enter Germany without a visa for up to 90 days. The import of fruit and meat products is prohibited.

By plane

Flights from Europe come from Seoul Incheon International Airport (ICN). The airport is modern and easy to find your way around. Duty free shopping on the return flight is only interesting for cigarettes, everything else is cheaper in Seoul. The old international Gimpo Airport (GMP) is used for domestic flights and partly for flights to neighboring Asia.

The flight time from Frankfurt am Main to Incheon is around 10.5 hours.

International flights, especially from Asia, are also available to Busan and Jeju.

Car, bus and train

It is not possible to travel overland, as South Korea only has a land border with North Korea and the neighbor is hermetically sealed. Under certain circumstances you can take your car with you on a ship.

By boat

There are ferry connections to ten ports in China, several in Japan and one in Russia. This enables East Asia travelers to use South Korea as a transit country between neighboring countries. You can also go to the Trans-Siberian Railway climb. However, the ferry to Vladivostok was "temporarily" suspended in autumn 2019.

Ferry connections to South Korea
ChinaFlag of chinaChina
To:Incheon (detailed there)Of:Dalian, Dandong, Lianyungang, Qingdao, Qinhuangdao, Shidao, Tianjin, Weihai, Yantai, Yinkou
JapanFlag of JapanJapan
To:BusanOf:Fukuoka, Osaka, Shimonoseki
RussiaFlag of RussiaRussia
To:Sokcho (Gang-won-do)Of:Vladivostok, Zarubino

mobility

By train

KTX train

South Korea has a good rail network, which is particularly suitable for longer distances. However, you should buy tickets in advance, especially on weekends. The KTX high-speed train (comparable to the French TGV) runs between Seoul and Busan and covers the distance in around 2 hours 40 minutes. The price for one trip is about 55,000 KRW, group tickets (four people) at a seat with a table are cheaper.

By bus

Intercity bus

There are intercity buses from every city. The seats are reserved when purchasing the ticket. The more expensive price for the express bus is rarely paid for with a much faster connection than with the "luxury" of air conditioning and wider seats, which is highly recommended.

In the street

You can drive a car in Korea with a valid international driver's license and your EU driver's license. Rental cars are available from the usual international car rental companies. The traffic situation, especially in the metropolitan areas, does not invite you to travel by car. In the country or e.g. on Jeju it is more pleasant to drive.

By boat

There are ferry connections to Jeju from Busan, Incheon, Mokpo and Wando. The crossing takes between three and eleven hours, depending on the destination and price range. From Incheon you can take the ferry to some islands on the west coast, others from Daecheon and Gunsan. The small islands off the south coast can be reached from Busan, Mokpo, Wando and Yeosu. The remote island Ulleung off the east coast is connected to the mainland by ferries to Pohang and Donghae.

By plane

Jeju Air

Several airlines are available for domestic flights. The two big ones are Korean Air and Asiana. Korean Air is a member of SkyTeam, Asiana in the Star Alliance.

Air Busan is Asiana's low-cost airline. The seats are very narrow even for normally built Europeans. The only service is water and juice. As a pastime, the stewardess plays “rock, scissors, paper” with the passengers, otherwise this is only experienced in tour buses. The low-cost airline Jeju Air offers slightly wider seats, also with little space for the legs and economy service.

Other low-cost airlines are Eastar Jet and Jin Air. Unfortunately, they don't offer a version in English on their websites, so if you can't speak Korean you have to rely on the help of hotel staff.

anecdote Quo vadis?
Even professionals, such as taxi drivers, have difficulties in the city of ten million, mainly because there are only a few street signs. Fortunately there are satnavs, but even then a trip due to one-way streets can pass the starting point again. And when drivers don't need a GPS, many use the second function: They watch television. So don't be surprised if your taxi driver watches the sports news while driving.

language

English is more difficult than easy to get by. Even in the larger hotels and airports in Seoul and the tourist areas, there are few staff who can speak or understand more than a few standard sentences. It is advisable to learn a few words of Korean even before breaking the ice. The grammar is similar to Japanese, and there are many Chinese loanwords that are only pronounced differently.

The Korean script is relatively easy to learn. A small dictionary or a language travel guide is useful. If you want to take a taxi to a place, you should ask the hotel to have the staff write down the place name in Korean. Names in Latin letters are often a source of confusion for taxi drivers. Firstly because there was a reform in the spelling in 2000, which now makes it difficult for foreigners to read words correctly and there are often additional spellings that seem good. A lot of imagination is required when recognizing the same place names.

to buy

The ratio of the won (KRW) to the euro is roughly 1320: 1 (July 2019), but the range is between 2000: 1 (2009) and 1200: 1 (2007). The prices are slightly below the Central European price level.

Electronic items are of interest. You should keep your hands off cell phones. It may happen that the system cannot be used in Europe. Various branded cosmetics are cheaper in South Korea than in Europe.

kitchen

Not for everyone: hedgehog worms and sea cucumbers in a restaurant in Seoul
anecdote Don't fidget at the table!
One of the most unusual things about Korean cuisine is Sannakji, octopus served live. Often it is cut to size before serving, but the spirits keep the arms wriggling and clinging to the plate.

Don't you like spicy dishes? Then Korea is the ideal place for a diet. Don't you like seafood either? Then you will die of agonizing starvation in Korea.

It's not that bad, of course, but the spiciness that brings even a Hungarian to the eyes and a wide range of all sorts of seafood are characteristic of Korea's cuisine. It is seasoned with paprika, chilli, sesame oil and garlic (South Korea has the highest per capita consumption). Other grains and pulses are often added to the rice. There are usually several small bowls with different vegetables (Banchan), such as the infamous Gimchi (Kimchi, 김치). Gimchi are pickled (fermented) vegetables based on Chinese cabbage, radish and spices, which are available in a multitude of variations and are often sour and hot. In terms of production, it is related to our sauerkraut: the ingredients "mature" in a large stone pot and achieve their unmistakable taste after a few days. Even many foreigners who have lived in Korea for a long time often have difficulties with the national dish. Almost every family puts their own vegetables in large clay pots that are on the terrace, balcony or roof.

Fish, squid, sea cucumber, hedgehog worms and mussels are offered raw, cooked, grilled and dried. You can eat Hwae (Korean sashimi) right by the sea or at the large fish markets, which, in contrast to the Japanese version, is offered with spicy dips.

The Korean barbeque (BBQ) is ideal for meat lovers: when Bulgogi Marinated pork, beef and sometimes lamb are cooked on the table with a gas grill.

Are also known Gimbab (Korean Maki), You (Maultaschen) and Naengmyeon (cold noodles). Eating out is relatively cheap in Korea and restaurants often specialize in a few dishes that they then prepare well and freshly.

Fermented fish, for example, take a lot of getting used to (Hongeohoe) or stew made from butterfly larvae (Bondaegi).

The national drink of Koreans is Soju. Formerly made from rice, today it mostly consists of industrial alcohol. It tastes like thin vodka and has around 20% alcohol. Soju is also drunk from schnapps glasses, but mostly in tens of times the amount compared to schnapps in Europe. The unfiltered rice wines, like Makkoli and Dongdongju, are often offered in traditional restaurants or small stalls in the mountains.

Restaurant chains

  • Gimbap Cheongook (김밥 천국). Gimbap Cheongook (Gimbap Heaven) is a food chain (franchise). Most of the time, elderly Korean ladies work here and cook Korean dishes like Gimbap or larger meals. The concept is going very well, so there are also imitators who have the same dishes, but they are called differently. Highly recommended for travelers who have to pay attention to their budget, as you will find a large selection of freshly prepared dishes here. The menus are almost always only in Korean, but you can often find pictures of the dishes so that you can get to your meal without knowing Korean.Price: Meals from 1,000 won.

Arts and Culture

Anapji Pond, Gyeongju

Korea has adopted a lot from Chinese culture and has set its own nuances in the process. Above all, Confucianism and Buddhism shaped the country. Christianity plays a bigger role here than in neighboring countries. 26% of the population are Christians. Shamanism still has a great influence on everyday life. In recent years, Korean pop culture has enjoyed great success in East Asia. Korean pop music and especially soap operas and other television series are extremely popular in China, Japan and Taiwan.

Several historical buildings in South Korea have been declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

The Korean bathhouse culture

The “steaming bowl” is the symbol for bathhouses in Japan, Korea and Taiwan

An important part of Korean life are the bathhouses behind the sauna-Signs can be found. In addition to the normal bathhouses, there are also hot thermal springs (oncheon). In addition to physical and mental cleansing, they have a communicative meaning. The preference for bathing in hot water has been inherited from the former Japanese gentlemen. That is why the procedure is largely identical to that in Japanese Onsen.

Women and men bathe separately. First you take off all of your clothes at a locker. Then, as God made you, you go into the bathing area and wash yourself thoroughly in the shower. Soap and shampoo are provided by the bathhouse, as well as toothpaste and toothbrushes. Only then do you lie down in the hot water. Many baths also offer cold pools, waterfalls, saunas and, for a surcharge, massages (no erotic massages!). In some pools there are also additives in the water.

The beds in the bathhouses are a special feature. Since the baths are open 24 hours a day and you can stay as long as you want after paying the entry fee once, they offer a very cheap alternative to staying overnight. You sleep in bathrobes in dormitories on the floor with wooden blocks as pillows.

The only problem: Many bathhouses do not allow foreigners in for fear that they would not know how to behave.

nightlife

With Koreans you can very quickly establish contact and start a conversation over a drink. Almost all Koreans are then extremely open to new things and very open-minded about everything they do not yet know. Social drinking is part of the evening, although large amounts of alcohol are also consumed.

accommodation

Jeongdongjin and the Sun Cruise Resort & Yacht

In addition to the usual hotels, youth hostels, guest houses and campsites, there are some special overnight accommodations in South Korea. Starting with the bathhouses as described above. In Seoul, Jeonju and some other places there are Hanoks, former houses of nobles made of wood. Overnight stays are very traditional in small rooms on heated floors. Same goes for Mimbaks, simplest guesthouses in ski areas, on islands and in the country. Korean-style rooms without a bed ondol called and can also be found in higher quality hotels. Usually there is also a step in the entrance area where you take off your shoes before entering.

Motels are primarily intended as an intimate meeting point for lovers for a few hours. For those who don't mind, this can be an inexpensive alternative to the normal hotels. Mostly outdated facilities and a bit shabby Yeogwan Accommodation for little money. The family-run variant is called Yeoinsuk. Here it can happen that as a foreigner you cannot get a room. Some temples offer overnight accommodation. Here the spiritual aspect plays an important role. Information under www.templestaykorea.net.

Work

Foreigners often work as English teachers in South Korea, but according to the current regulations, only native speakers are allowed to do so. For those under 30, including those from Germany, there is the option of applying for a Work & Travel visa. The job search is certainly not as easy as in New Zealand or Australia, as it has been possible to get such a visa there for a long time and the local economy has adjusted to it and there are fewer language barriers.

public holidays

dateGerman nameKoreanRomanizedannotation
January 1stNew Years Day  
1st to 3rd day of the 1st lunar monthNew year of the lunar calendar설날SeollalThree-day festival, usually in early February
1st MarchIndependence Day3 · 1 절, 三 一 節Samil JeolRemembering the March 1st Movement
April 5thTree planting day식목일, 植 木 日Singmogil
5th of MayChildren's day어린이 날EorininalUntil 1975 "Day of the Boys" called
8th day of the 4th lunar monthBuddha's birthday부처님 오신 날Bucheon in OsinnalUsually at the end of May
6th of JuneRemembrance day현충일, 顯忠 日Hyeonchung-il
17th JulyConstitution Day제헌절, 制憲 節JeheonjeolProclamation of the Constitution in 1948
15th of AugustIndependence day광복절, 光復 節GwangbokjeolRemembering the end of the Japanese colonial era in 1945
15th to 18th day of the 8th lunar monthThanksgiving추석, 秋夕ChuseokThree-day festival, usually at the end of September
October 3Open Sky Day /
Founding day of the nation
개천절, 開 天 節GaecheonjeolThe mythological foundation of Korea by Dangun
25 DecemberChristmas크리스마스Christmas

security

When it comes to crime, South Korea is a safe country to travel to, which is why you shouldn't neglect everyday caution.

health

In principle, tap water is drinkable, but it is usually so strongly chlorinated that it is inedible. It's fine for brushing your teeth. 10 to 20% of travelers get diarrhea anyway.

Hepatitis A and B are a risk in South Korea. While hepatitis B - like HIV - is only transmitted through body fluids, hepatitis A can also be infected through water or food. Vaccination is therefore highly recommended. Travelers staying in Korea and / or outside Seoul for more than a week are advised to get a typhoid vaccination.

There is an increased risk of Japanese encephalitis in the southwest of the country. However, this mosquito-borne disease rarely occurs in travelers, as they usually only stay briefly in the risk areas. There is a vaccination. Leptospirosis can be infected in flowing water. Lyme disease is transmitted by ticks. Giardiasis is another parasitic disease.

Further recommendations can be found at Tropeninstitut.de.

Climate and travel time

August weather in Seoul
Hut near Mount Seorak in autumn, Gangwon Province

South Korea is in the temperate climate zone, there are four different seasons. Exceptions are some subtropical valleys on the south coast of Jeju and some high altitude regions over 1,700 meters.

The mild and sunny spring usually begins between the end of March and the beginning of April. The winds then often carry fine, yellow desert dust from the Gobi desert to South Korea. In summer, southerly winds bring hot, humid air. The summer monsoon season begins at the end of June / beginning of July. Much of the annual rainfall falls on South Korea during this time. Partly heavy rain alternates with clear days. This is followed by a very hot midsummer, which is mainly characterized by the high humidity of 80–95%. The maximum daily temperature then often exceeds 30 ° C.

Autumn sets in in mid-September when the winds blow from the northwest again. The dry air from inner Asia brings in plenty of sun as the temperature slowly begins to drop. Now, one of the best times to go is when the woods begin to turn color. The winter in South Korea is very cold and dry. The winds from Siberia rarely bring snow. From January, a special climatic constellation creates a peculiar temperature scheme, in which three cold days alternate with four slightly milder days.

Climate data

yearspringsummerautumnwinterJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
T mean (° C)11,510,422,713,4−0,5−2,1−0,34,610,915,920,023,624,419,613,76,90,8
T-min (° C)6,54,818,58,2−5,5−7,0−5,2−0,85,010,215,319,920,414,98,01,8−4,2
T-max (° C)16,516,126,918,74,42,84,69,916,821,724,827,428,524,419,512,15,8
T distance (° C)10,011,38,410,49,89,89,710,611,711,59,57,58,19,511,410,49,9
Frost days114,226,00,717,170,525,521,918,06,71,30,40,20,20,43,613,123,0
Rainydays119,628,139,826,025,68,88,69,19,79,311,615,213,110,07,38,78,2
Precipitation (mm)1404287723283111374466110111187289247159675730
Air pressure (hPa - 1000)11,99,022,212,14,23,74,25,78,812,517,924,124,517,711,37,24,6
Cloud cover (%)52,951,866,949,943,242,247,549,752,153,666,271,862,759,445,245,040,0

In the northern and central regions, higher temperature differences over the year must be expected than in the southern coastal areas. It is usually a little warmer on the east coast than on the west coast, as the Taebaek Mountains prevent cold winds from coming in from Siberia.

behaviour rules

Formal politeness is very important in Korea, but it often depends on social status and age. For example, it is still a matter of course to give older people a seat in the subway. There are different verb forms and word additions in the Korean language in order to be able to express many levels. Of course, foreigners are not expected to be perfectly familiar with it, but gestures of courtesy are always well received. So you should give or receive a gift with both hands, always refill a guest's glass and show particular respect to the elderly.

The hotel employees are also extremely friendly and helpful, even if there are mostly problems with the English language. It looks different in everyday life on the street. You shouldn't be surprised if someone jostles, because Koreans never seem to speak to someone when they want to drop by, just as they don't seem to pay attention to whether someone wants to drop by. You create the space for yourself and that is not due to any language barriers or xenophobia, but is everyday life in the land of dawn. The background is supposed to be Confucianism. A clear distinction is made between one's own circle of acquaintances and unknown outsiders. It gets really annoying when people push in queues, which is not infrequently the case. Therefore always stand close to the person in front so that no one stands in between.

The Koreans like to take the opportunity to try out their English. Germans are often asked about reunification. Topics that should be treated with caution for many Koreans are North Korea and communism in general, as well as the former colonial power Japan.

South Korea is an exemplary clean country, which may be surprising, because public garbage cans are in short supply. So if you want to get rid of your drinks bottle, you should be patient and keep your eyes open. In the underground stations you still have the greatest chance of finding something.

Post and Telecommunications

There are phone cards from KRW 100,000 for public payphones and public payphones.

Mobile phones

The Korean network standard for cell phones is CDMA, the phones do not have a SIM card.

Since 3G (UMTS) or 4G (LTE) are widely available in South Korea, today's smartphones are not a problem there. Older GSM mobile phones that do not support 3G (UMTS) or 4G (LTE) work apart from a few places where GSM is not offered in South Korea.

Korean prepaid sim cards for tourists

There are providers of SIM cards in the Korean cellular network especially for tourists. This is the cheapest way to be reachable and to make phone calls in Korea, as there are no rental fees for a rental cell phone or expensive roaming costs. The Korean provider evergreen mobile, as a virtual network operator (MVNO) in the kt telecom network, offers a mobile phone card for telephony and internet use. In addition to the use of 3G Internet, the card also includes unlimited use of the very well-developed olleh Wifi. An LTE variant is also offered. A Korean cell phone number is also included. The SIM card can be ordered directly in Europe: Korean SIM card distributor

Solutions for owners of older cell phones

A. Buy cheap cell phones for travel

Buy a cheap mobile phone at home (or buy a new one for home too) without a SIM lock, so that you can use your own SIM card. Today all cell phones support at least 3G.

B. Korean rental cell phones

  1. You can borrow a mobile phone for your own SIM card from KT or SK in the arrivals hall (maybe from others too). The cell phone rental fee is very moderate at around 1000 won per day, call charges according to the German cell phone provider. Apparently there are frequent problems with Vodafone SIM cards.
  2. Lending mobile phone with Korean number. Costs around 5000 won per day and is also available from the other telephone companies in the arrivals hall. Calls in the country and to Germany are therefore significantly cheaper than with the SIM card option.

A credit card is required for both variants. Some better hotels provide a rental cell phone in the room as a free service.

literature

Lonely Planet Korea

Web links

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