Chisinau - Chisinau

Chisinau (Moldovan Chisinau, Russian Kishinyov, Ukrainian Kishinevi, pronounced "Kiesjienau") is the capital of the Republic of Moldova. The city covers 635 square kilometers, including suburbs.

Info

Moldova may be the poorest country in Europe, but the capital Chisinau is relatively rich. The population is dressed very modern, and the luxury items advertised here and there on plates cost as much – if not more – as in Western Europe.

The majority of working- and middle-income people still live in Soviet-era apartment blocks today. They may look quite run down, but the neighborhoods they're in are a lot safer than neighborhoods with comparable apartments in Western Europe. When you visit Moldova, don't expect luxury. Some things are a bit more primitive than you might be used to. However, crime is relatively low.

Arrive

By plane

At Chisinau International Airport [1] several airlines fly, such as AirBaltic [2], Air Moldova [3], Austrian [4], Lufthansa [5], Moldavian Airlines [6], Tarom [7] and Turkish Airlines [8]. Flights go to Athens, Bucharest, Budapest, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Madrid, Moscow, Munich, Riga, Rome, Timisoara, Vienna and Vilnius. As for the costs: a return ticket Amsterdam-Chisinau with Lufthansa (change trains in Munich) in October 2011 cost about €350.00.

There are a number of taxi companies that can take you from the airport to the center. Costs range from 25 to 100 lei depending on whether or not you speak Moldovan or Russian. Alternatively, you can take the bus. In this case, this is a mini-van, with about 8 to 16 seats, that will take you from the station via the Botanica stop (on the edge of the city) to the center.

By train

Taking the train to Chisinau seems a bit inconvenient, because there are no direct connections with Central Europe. However, traveling to Moldova by train seems to be much cheaper than by plane. The downside is that the trains are slow, especially at the border crossing to former Soviet countries: the wheels of the trains have to be replaced there, because of a different kind of track used there.

The most popular route is the one from Bucharest. Night trains depart daily from the Gara de Nord, which take about 15 hours. The sleeping cabins are comfortable, only the toilets are not so good. A return ticket in a compartment for four people will cost you about €32 (2010).

Another convenient route runs from Warsaw. Trains depart every other day, taking 38 hours. From Russia there are three routes, one from Moscow through Kiev, one from St. Petersburg, and one from Rostov-on-Don. Several cities in Ukraine also have daily connections: There are daily trains from Odessa. This train passes Transnistria, a province of Moldova that has declared itself a country, but is not recognized as such by any other country. The train makes a stop in its 'capital', Tiraspol. Depending on the political situation at that time, your train journey may be interrupted as a result. A one-way ticket will cost you 50 UAH.

By car

The quality of the roads in Moldova varies – with the exception of parts of the E531 – from fair to poor. The road between Chisinau and Ungheni is very bad, with a lot of potholes. Your fellow road users are trucks, cars and livestock, and each of them will handle their own speed, seemingly without any sense of safety. With a bit of bad luck you will also be stopped every now and then for a bribe by the traffic police, especially if you drive with a foreign license plate. As a tourist, it is therefore preferable to take public transport. It costs next to nothing and is generally reliable.

By bus

Chisinau has three bus stations:

• The main train station (mainly for domestic destinations)
• Gara de Nord (for domestic destinations in the north of the country, such as Sorocca, Rezina, Ocnita, or for traveling to Odessa, Kiev and other locations in Ukraine)
• Gara Sud (for domestic destinations in the south, such as Comrat and Cahul, and for travel to Romania.

You can reach Gara de Sud from the central station by minibuses (rutiera) with the numbers 120, 124, 180 or 192 for only 3 lei. Gara Nord can be reached via minibus 163 and (among others) trolleybus 9. Bus times can be found on this website: [9] (Moldovan).

There are several buses per day to Bucharest, Odessa, lasic, Chernivtsia and Lviv. It takes about 5 hours to get to Odessa. Most buses to Odessa go through the south of Moldova, so as not to have to go through Transnistria. These buses then go via Palanka or causenia. The journey to Lasi takes three and a half hours. Would you like to visit Transnistria; there are several buses and mini-buses to the Transnistrian cities bender and Tiraspol. Count on about 25 lei for a 90-minute journey.

Travel around

By taxi

There are both city taxis and private taxis. For a city taxi call 1499, 1420, 1422, 1447,1444 or any of the other 14xx numbers to order a taxi, except 1488. Ordering a taxi over the phone is not much of a problem, but the taxi drivers themselves speak it barely. Make sure you are aware of the costs of the taxi in advance, otherwise you can be heavily milked. In such a case, you simply had bad luck in a private taxi. In a taxi whose number starts with "14..", you can dial that number to inquire about the actual prices. An average ride will cost you 30 to 40 lei, a longer ride more than 50. A ride to the airport will cost you about 60-80 lei. From the airport to the city it is a lot more expensive, but haggling is allowed.

By bus

If you don't feel like negotiating, or just want to get cheap, take the trolleybus, bus or maxi-taxi. A ride on the trolleybus will cost you 2 lei, a ride on the bus will cost you 3 lei. A conductor will visit everyone who has just boarded after each stop. Accurate payment is appreciated. In the mini-vans a ride will cost you 3 lei, and you pay directly to the driver upon arrival. Please note: You get into a minibus via the co-driver's seat, and not via the sliding door (even if you have luggage with you).

The route of the trolleybus is indicated in the bus shelters, sometimes only with names, sometimes also with a route map. The route of minibuses is indicated on the sign behind the windshield of the van. Trolleybuses stop at every stop anyway, with minibuses you often have to raise your hand.

To look at

The heart of the city is centered around Boulevard Stefan cel Mare, especially near the cathedral park. Chisinau was heavily bombed in the Second World War, and therefore has no special center. You will find a large number of parks and monuments there.

Monuments

• The monument to Stefan III the Great, who gained great fame in the 15th century for waging armed struggle against Turkish incursions. The monument stands at the entrance to the park named after him.[10]

Parks

• Parcul Catedralei (Cathedral Park), a small city park with the Nativity Cathedral in the middle and the Triumphal Arch on the edge. Considered the heart of the city.

• Valea Trandafirilor, a beautiful city park with three lakes, several restaurants and a Ferris wheel. The park can be reached by trolleybus 1, 4, 8, 17 and 20 (stop Str. N. Titulescu).

• Rascani Park, a 32-hectare park in which you can enjoy a walk. Can be reached with trolley 16, 21, 23, 24, 26 (stop N. Dimo). [11]

• Botanical Park, the most beautiful and largest park in Chisinau, not to be confused with the somewhat disappointing neighboring one Botanical Garden. Trolley 4, 15 or 18 (Gradina Botanica stop). [12]

• Valea Morilor, an atmospheric epitome of faded Soviet glory on the edge of the city center. The lake has been (partly) drained, the beach has been overgrown, and the fountain with waterfall that once flowed down the steps from the top of the hill has subsided and fallen into disuse. It's like being in a scene from Lord of the Rings. 10 minutes walk south from the center.[13]

• Dendrariu, a large park, 10 minutes walk west from the center. Beautiful gardens, a lake, forest and a sports field. Entry is 2 lei. [14]

• Alunelul, a small park in the northwest of the city. It contains a strange door and windowless cottage, and a monument commemorating the pogroms that took place in Chisinau at the beginning of the 20th century. Can be reached via, among other things, trolley line 1 (Stop 'Parcul Alunelul').

• Directly behind Alunelul is the Jewish cemetery. The graves range from new to very old, and it is the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe. Not surprising when you consider that once, before the pogroms, 40-60% of the inhabitants of Chisinau were of Jewish descent. There is also a ruined synagogue on the property, and a monument to the scrolls of the Torah. [15]

To do

• Piata Centrala, the open-air market in the center of Chisinau. The plethora of different products on display provide enough material for an interesting photo, such as robust sacks of grain, colorful vegetable stalls and creepy pig heads. Can be reached via trolley lines 1, 4 and 8. The market is sandwiched between two side streets of the Boulevard Stefan cel Mare, between the Str. Armeneasca and Str. Tighina. [16]

• Chisinau Zoo [17], a zoo the size of a large petting zoo, near the Botanical Garden. Open 8am-8pm, entry 1-10 lei (depending on age).

Language

Moldovan and Russian are the two most widely spoken and known languages ​​in Moldova. Only 30% of Moldavians speak English, and not always with a very extensive vocabulary. In more modern restaurants, in shopping centers and at tourist attractions you can generally make yourself understood with English. Fortunately, the Moldovans are not in a hurry, so if you can talk 'hands and feet', you can get by.

To learn

To work

To buy

Moldovan wine is famous for its quality. It can compete well with (for example) the better French wines, and the prices are low. Unfortunately, you can only import a maximum of two bottles per person into the EU. The Moldovan wines are especially famous in the former Soviet Union, but hardly known in Western Europe. Smokers can indulge in the low cigarette prices. When importing cigarettes, also take into account import rules to the EU. You can buy the wine in the supermarket, or after a visit to one of the Moldovan wine cellars.

A nice souvenir shop can be found on Boulevard Stefan cel Mare, near the cathedral park (Parcul Catedralei) and right opposite McDonald's. You can buy ceramic vases, Moldavian costumes and old military headgear here.

Food

There are many places where you can eat well in Chisinau. Prices vary widely; the modern, hip restaurants charge prices that are not inferior to those in the West.

• Andy's Pizza is a fast food chain that can be found all over the city. You get a lot for little. The quality varies per location and per dish.
• La Placinte is a chain from the same stable as Andy's Pizza. Traditional Moldovan dishes are served here. Here too you get a lot for little, and the quality is generally good.
• Pizza Celentano, st. Puskin. Pizza chain from Ukraine.

Shops for daily groceries can be found here and there; in shopping streets, as separate boutiques along the street, or in tunnels under the road. For more special items you can go to the supermarket. Here and there you will also find markets, or people who have displayed their things on the sidewalk. That can be fruit or vegetables, but also popcorn, honey or goat cheese. In general, the stuff is fresh, safe to eat, and sometimes even better than what you get at the grocery store.

For fresh fruit and vegetables it is best to go to the market. The most famous market is probably the Piata Centrala (trolley lines 1, 4 and 8. The market is sandwiched between two side streets of the Boulevard Stefan cel Mare, between the Str. Armeneasca stop and the Str. Tighina stop. [18]). Most of the items are locally produced, although there are also plenty of sellers who try to sell imported goods. Usually these are oranges, bananas, pomegranates or other tropical fruits. On the other hand, rather buy meat and dairy in the supermarket or in shops. The quality is better, and the prices are about the same.

Going out

• Wine - Moldovan wine is considered one of the best in Eastern Europe. In restaurants, as a rule, you can only buy local wines, but also high-quality ones. One of the best wines of Moldova is of the "Negru de Purcari" type.
• Beer - Moldovan beer (pilsner to be exact) is good. The best-known brand is 'Bere Chisinau', whose advertisements can be found in various places in the city. Strangely enough, the hipper Moldovans themselves seem to look a bit down on it. Modern restaurants do not advertise it, and you will probably find a bottle of Heineken in the minibar of your hotel room. So you inevitably have to take a walk past the supermarket.

clubs

There are more than 40 nightclubs in Chisinau, and the nightlife in the capital is said to be a must.

stay overnight

Cheap

If you look carefully, you can stay in Chisinau for less than €15.00 per night. You will have a small room in a hostel, or you will sleep in a dormitory in a youth hostel [19].

Some specific locations:

• Chisinau Hostel, 5/4 Arborilorstr., ☎ 373 60079998, 373 69711918, e-mail: [email protected]. Check in: 12:00, check out: 11:00. Neat hotel with friendly staff. €9,00-13,00.

• Central Youth Hostel, Pruncul 6, Apartment 1. Check in: 13:00, check out: 11:00. The cheapest hostel in Chisnau: 135 MDL/per night for a bed in a six person dorm. 50 MDL deposit for the key. There is a bathroom with a shower. The family that runs the hotel also lives there. It is quite noisy, and the walls are thin. But hey, for the price you can't complain. There is limited hot water. from 135 MDL.

Average

• Hotel Cosmos, [20]. Clean rooms, friendly staff, some of whom speak English. Room from €39.00 per night for two people (2011). The hotel looks like an old-fashioned Soviet hotel from the outside, and therefore does not attract many guests. In the past, the water pressure in the rooms higher than the ground floor sometimes disappeared. It is not known whether this is still the case.

• Hotel Luna, [21] Nice hotel with comfortable rooms and good service. Costs around €80.00 per night

• Hotel Edem, [22] a fairly new hotel with comfortable rooms and a swimming pool. Prices from €60.00 per night.

• Hotel Stella De Lux, [23] a small hotel that costs €50.00 per night. Rather small and spartan rooms (some with no window). Little service and guests are not welcome.

• Hotel Vila IRIS, [24] a small, nice hotel with comfortable rooms and reasonable prices. Around € 50.00 per night. Included is breakfast, wifi, parking and laundry service.

• Hotel Villa Muntenia, [25] a cozy and welcoming hotel that offers low prices and good service. Prices from €40.00 per night. This includes breakfast, internet, TV, parking and laundry service.

• Hotel Bella Donnan, 9, Bucuresti street, ☎ 373 22 548207. New hotel with comfortable rooms and friendly service. The prices are low, from € 50.00 per room, including breakfast, wifi and TV. €60,00.

Expensive

• Hotel Jumbo, [26] Strada Decebal 23. A good, new and comfortable four-star hotel with neat rooms, good beds, Wi-Fi and TV. Also with good restaurant. Near the Jumbo shopping center, right opposite the park Valea Trandafirilor and near a bus stop, with which you can take several buses directly to the city center. Rooms from €100.00.

• Hotel VisPas, [27]. A cozy four-star hotel, about a 15-minute walk from the center. It has a good restaurant with reasonable prices: a meal including drinks costs about 300 lei.

• Club Royal Park 5* Hotel, [28].

• Jolly Alon Hotel 4*, [29]. A nice hotel in the heart of the city, on a quiet street. The hotel also has a fitness center especially for guests.

• Leogrand Hotel & Convention Center 4*, [30](formerly the Dedeman Grand Hotel)

• Hotel 4*, a very classy but small hotel (18 rooms), near the airport. Very good service, tasty food, very large rooms and comfortable beds. Tel: 373 22 210822 - for reservations.

• President Hotel 5*, five star hotel

• Manhattan Hotel, [31]. Four-star hotel, opened early 2010.

• Weekend Boutique Hotel 5*, [32]. Located in the heart of Chisinau. Modern interior that pleasantly surprised.

Safety

Use your brain. Street lighting is not available everywhere, so depending on where you stay at night, a flashlight may be useful.

Don't let yourself light up in the nightlife.

Corruption by police, targeting foreigners, seems to occur from time to time. You can be arrested for a trivial act, resulting in a large bribe. In such a case it is useful that you have a copy of your passport and the telephone number of your embassy. In any case, make sure that as a foreigner you do not stand out too much, and do not make eye contact with the police.

Health

Contact

Emergency numbers:

• Ambulance - 903
• Police - 902
• Fire Department - 901
• Gas plant - 904
• Emergency number - 112

Daily life

all around

external links

General information

• Country information ANWB about Moldova
• LonelyPlanet.com, internet travel guide with a chapter on Moldova
• Visamoldova.co.uk, information from a British expat in Moldova

This article is still completely under construction . It contains a template, but not yet enough information to be useful to a traveler. Dive in and expand it!