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| Naples | ||
| region | Campania | |
|---|---|---|
| Residents | 966.144 (2018) | |
| Tourist info | 39 380 145 13 79 www.infoturismonapoli.it/ | |
| location | ||
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Naples (Italian: Napoli), the capital of the region Campania and an important ferry port, is the third largest city with almost exactly one million inhabitants Italy.
Districts
The city of Naples is basically divided into two parts, the Upper and Lower town. The lower town includes the city center, the Centro Storico. The upper town consists of Vomero and other parts of the city.
background
Naples is the old one Neapolis ("New Town"), a Greek colony in Campania, six Roman miles from the older Paleopolis ("Old Town"), which can be found on today's Monte Posilipo. According to Strabo, the Chalcidian colonists from nearby Kyme (Cumä) first settled there. It was only later that they founded the “new city”, reinforced by the Chalkidians and Athenians, which together with Paleopolis formed a community of Parthenope for a while. Although conquered by the Samnites, Neapolis retained its Greek character, its ancient Greek games and competitions, and its division into phratries up to the most recent times. Greek inscriptions from Naples have been preserved from the 7th century AD.
While Paleopolis started a war with the Romans and after the Roman conquest in 326 BC. Disappeared from history, Naples formed an alliance with the Romans, who considered the city civitas foederata left their own constitution. Naples quickly rose to bloom. It rendered essential services to Rome through its fleet and, because of the beautiful area and the flourishing Greek arts and sciences, was a favorite place of residence of educated and distinguished Romans such as Virgil, Claudius, Nero, Statius and others. The city, even if it was the largest sea city in southern Italy next to Taranto, did not have the same size as present-day Naples.
It was only in the Middle Ages as the residence of the Norman kings that it acquired its size and importance. In 536, Naples was snatched from the Goths by Belisarius and then belonged to the Byzantine Empire. It was almost independent under its own dukes and was conquered by the Normans in 1148.
From the 13th century, Naples was the residence of the Kingdom of Sicily, which included not only the island of the same name, but also all of southern Italy and was owned by the House of Anjou, who came from France. In 1302 the Kingdom of Sicily was divided, the part located on the mainland became the "this-sided Kingdom of Sicily" (Regno di Sicilia citeriore) or simply Kingdom of Naples called. In 1443 it was conquered by the Spanish house of Aragón. From 1516 to 1735 it was owned by the Habsburgs, then the Bourbons. After the Congress of Vienna in 1815, Naples and Sicily were reunited to form the so-called Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. The capital remained Naples. Only in the course of the Risorgimento Naples - and thus all of southern Italy - was added to the united Kingdom of Italy in 1861.
getting there
By plane
The international 1 Aeroporto di Napoli
(IATA: NAP) is located in the district Capodichino, about 6 kilometers northeast of the city center. From Germany offers Lufthansa Direct flights from Munich. TUIfly also flies directly to Naples and from several German cities easyJet comes here from Hamburg, Berlin and Basel. If you want to travel to Naples from Saxony or Bavaria, you could take the flight with WizzAir consider from Prague. Eurowings flies from various German cities, ditto Ryanair, usually a little cheaper.
There is a regular 3S bus for around 1 euro and a faster airport bus (Alibus for 5 euros), which runs more often and only stops at specially signposted stops. This runs from the airport to the main train station and on to the ferry terminal. It is ideal for visitors to the islands capri and Ischia want.
By train
- railway station 2 Napoli Centrale
The train system in Italy is pretty good and much cheaper than in Germany. You can get from Rome to Naples in about three hours for 10 euros. For the Frecciarossa and Italo express trains there are often savings tickets for 19 euros on the same route, the journey at a top speed of 300 km / h then only takes an hour.
If you book in good time, you can travel from Munich to Rome for 39 euros in a couchette car (or 29 euros in a seating car) (special night offer) and then change to a connecting train to Naples. Alternatively, a trip from Germany to Milan is possible, from there express trains run at frequent intervals to Naples within four hours. The price is usually between 35 and 75 euros per route, depending on the load.
By bus
In the meantime, Naples can be used with national bus routes such as Flixbus from z. B. Rome can be reached from.
In the street
In Italy there is a car toll system on the privatized highways. You have to pay at every entry, turning around in front of the toll station is strictly forbidden. For drivers who are not familiar with the prevailing principles, it is very difficult to get along in traffic without damage to the vehicle body. Road signs are meaningless. On the other hand, pedestrians are paid close attention and consideration. The road can be crossed at any point at any time, even when traffic is flowing. The horn is used as a signaling device in Naples even more than anywhere else in Italy. Their use means something like "Attention, someone is still driving here" and is intended, for example, to warn of oncoming vehicles in a curve.
There is a high risk of car theft. In 2004, Naples had the third most cars stolen per capita in the EU (after the neighboring cities of Caserta and Catania). Many Neapolitans park their cars in guarded underground garages, there is usually no space to park on the street. The so-called "Parcheggiatori", which you see everywhere in parking spaces, offer a parking space for an amount of around two euros. This is mostly not in accordance with the law, however, due to the contacts between these parking attendants and the police, no fines are to be feared. Better to get around the streets of Naples by scooter than by car. Without specific knowledge of the "unwritten laws" in road traffic, it is also not advisable to do so.
By boat
There is a large international port that is mainly used for cargo and large passenger ships. On its western edge is the Molo Beverello at the ferries to the many small islands (capri, Procida and Ischia), as well as to the Amalfi Coast (Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi) drive. Other important ferry routes from the large port are Naples-Genoa and Naples-Palermo.
mobility
Although Naples is a city of millions, everything in the center can in principle be reached on foot. To get ahead more quickly or to transport luggage, you can take a trip with the metro at. The subway system consists essentially of two lines and other suburban trains similar to metro. Line 1 extends from Piazza Garibaldi (also the main train station) to Piscinola. The two stops Università and Toledo have been built in the last few years, in the medium term two more central stations are to be opened with Municipio and Duomo. In addition, the ring between Piscinola and Piazza Garibaldi is to be closed. The route will then also connect the airport with the metro. Since the existing stops are usually not located directly at the sights, it is usually advisable to use one for short-distance inner-city traffic in practice Bus route. However, the red or orange vehicles are often jam-packed, which creates a certain risk of theft.
Taxis there are plenty, the prices are relatively high. For some routes, for example from the main train station to the airport, there are tariffs set by the Campania region, which in practice are rarely adhered to by non-residents. When asked, you often only get a fake receipt instead of the official tariff. Some taxi drivers take detours or want to bill for additional services that were neither requested nor provided. If taxis are ordered, there is no lump sum for the journey, but always the entire fare, even if the driver is from Rome. There are many competing taxi offices. The inscription makes no difference as long as the taxis are yellow or white and have a sign with the coat of arms of the Campania region and a number.
The surrounding cities can be reached with the Circumvesuviana, a train similar to an S-Bahn. The train station in Naples is located below the main train station behind the entrance to the metro. Access is also possible via the station building in a side street in Piazza Garibaldi, the station there is called Porta Nolana. The "Vesuviana" has very different towing equipment in use. Many trains are very old and completely smeared on the outside, others are new and have air conditioning. The train stops mainly in satellite towns where there are no tourist attractions. Foreigners usually only use them for trips to Pompei, Ercolano and Sorrento.
With the Circumflegrea and the Cumana there are two other suburban railways that use ailing trains. These railways are often unannounced on strike. You travel on two different routes from the Montesanto train station, not far from Piazza Dante, to the western suburbs of Naples. Both end in Torregaveta.
Naples also has several Cableways in Mergellina, Montesanto, Chiaia and in the center on Via Toledo, which lead to the upper parts of the city. They can be used with the normal Unico Napoli tickets and operate until midnight.
The Tariff system for public transport in Naples was revised on January 1st, 2015. 90-minute tickets in the city area now cost 1.50 euros (2012: 1.20 euros, 2013: 1.30 euros), day tickets 4.50 euros, week tickets 15.80 euros and monthly tickets 42 euros. New are special tickets for company employees, which have different prices depending on the means of transport involved. An annual ticket for students costs 176.40 euros. Anyone who succeeds in proving an "ISEE" (Indicatore della situazione economica equivalente) of less than 12,500 euros receives the annual ticket for 132.30 euros.
By car
For some years now, the city center of Naples has been traffic-calmed with a "Zona traffico limitato" (ZTL). After angry protests from residents and business owners, the "Lungomare Caracciolo" promenade was initially closed to motorists and is now popular with pedestrians, cyclists and skaters, especially at sunset. With the opening of the Municipio and Duomo metro stations, the streets there for individual traffic were narrowed with more space for passers-by. The historic old town is closed to car traffic between 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. Further information on the ZTL currently in force is available on the Website of the Municipality of Naples.
Tourist Attractions
The historic old town, the Centro storico, is full of sights. There are hundreds of old monuments.
Churches and monasteries
- 1 Duomo di Napoli (Naples Cathedral)
- 2 Monastro di Santa Chiara (Monastery with Church of Santa Chiara)
- 3 Church of the Gesù Nuovo. Renaissance church with a splendid baroque interior. The dark stone facade, characterized by three-dimensional diamond blocks, is unusual. Chiseled into the facade are characters in Aramaic (the language of Jesus), which when connected together form a pentagram and, if you assign a certain tone to each letter, represent a piece of music. In the square in front of the church there is a baroque obelisk.
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Palaces and castles
- 4 Castel Sant'Elmo
- 5 Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino)
- 6 Castel dell'Ovo. There is a free elevator to get from the entrance to the castle grounds.
- 7 Palazzo Reale. The former ruler's palace of the Kingdom of Naples-Sicily. The late Renaissance building was built between 1600 and 1620 based on a design by Domenico Fontana. Until 1946 it was used as a secondary residence for the Italian kings. Today the palace houses a state museum (Museo di Palazzo Reale) and - in the east wing - the National Library of Naples.
- 8 Palazzo Donn'Anna. Baroque palace from the middle of the 17th century, picturesquely nestled directly on the coast and washed by the sea.
- 9 Villa Pignatelli. Classicist monumental villa from the 19th century, built for the British baronet Ferdinand Dalberg-Acton, whose father was temporarily Prime Minister of Naples. The facility now houses that Museo Principe Diego Aragona Pignatelli Cortés (represents the living conditions of the former noble owners, with valuable furniture, porcelain, paintings, library, record collection, etc.) and that Museo delle carrozze (Carriage Museum).
- 10 Villa Floridiana. Classicist villa, built 1817–19 as the summer residence of Lucia Migliaccio, the wife of King Ferdinand I, who “only” bore the title of Duchess of Florida because she was not in keeping with her class. Today the villa houses that Museo Duca di Martina, a collection of valuable porcelain and majolica work.
Buildings
- 11 Teatro di San Carlo (Naples Opera House)
- Many buildings from the Greco-Roman past are still hidden in the underground of the city, including a theater, which together with the tunnel vaults as part of the tour Napoli Sotterranea ("Underground Naples") can be visited. An overview of the main archaeological sites of Naples here in the Naples section.
Museums
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- 12 Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli (archaeological museum) (near Piazza Museo and metro station "Museo").
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- 13 Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte (in the Bosco di Capodimonte, a large park on one of the mountains in Naples. B. ab Piazza Cavour).
- Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro, Via Duomo, 149. The cathedral treasure of Naples is exhibited here, including a diamond, ruby and emerald decorated miter (bishop's hat), silver work from the 14th century to the present day and paintings by Neapolitan artists such as Luca Giordano.
Streets and squares
To escape the hustle and bustle in the city center, take a stroll on the promenade (lungomare) 14 Via Francesco Caracciolo between Castel dell'Ovo and Mergellina, with a view of the Gulf of Naples, Mount Vesuvius and Capri. Numerous restaurants and cafés invite you to stop for a break on the opposite side of the street.
Parks
You can also find peace and quiet from the hectic pace of the streets in the parks:
- 15 Villa Comunale. This park is located by the sea just north of the fortress Castel dell 'Ovo. The core of the garden was laid out around 1700; essential elements date from the end of the 18th century, including elaborately designed fountains and classicist statues. Here you can also marvel at a small aquarium. Access is public and free.
- 16 Aquarium (Stazione zoologica Anton Dohrn)
- 16 Aquarium (Stazione zoologica Anton Dohrn)
- 17 Botanical Garden (Orto botanico di Napoli), Via Foria.
- 18 Parco di Capodimonte. Largest and perhaps most beautiful park in Naples, the National Museum is right in the middle.
- 20 Parco Vergiliano a Piedigrotta. Small park with access to the so-called 19 Crypta Neapolitana, a tunnel from Roman times with the alleged tomb of the Latin poet Virgil.Open: daily except Tuesdays, mid-October – mid-April: 10 am–2.50 pm, April – October: 9 am–7 pm.
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various
In the old town you can find the Christmas cribs made individually from cork in many places.
activities
shop
There are branches of the Supermarket chains Carrefour, Superò, Conad or MD Discount (comparable to Aldi, very inexpensive) from very small branches to "Ipermercato" in the periphery. There are also a lot of small grocery stores, Street vendor and stands as well as entire markets, for example at the Porta Nolana, where there is a large market along a street that begins at the city gate of the same name, known primarily for fresh fish and groceries. The street vendors often have better quality and prices for local products, especially for fruit, vegetables and cheese products (especially the excellent ones Mozzarella di Buffalawhich is only available in this region). The farmers often sell their products themselves, mostly at stalls. There are smaller ones for everything else Specialty stores, the Enoteca for wine that Latteria for dairy products (mostly a small shop for everything), the "Pasticceria" for baked goods, the pastry shops etc.
There are also very good high-priced goods, especially clothing. The Neapolitans attach great importance to their appearance, the worn fashion often corresponds to the latest craze and can only be seen in Germany after a period of one or two years. There is a huge selection of leather goods such as belts or handbags. A lot of Clothing stores can be found on Corso Umberto or on Via Roma. There are also numerous tailors who make (partially) tailor-made suits, usually from three-digit prices. The tie cutter Marinella serves prominent customers all over the world. High quality umbrellas can be used Mario Talarico bought or commissioned. All Italian luxury brands have at least one branch in Naples, and many foreign clothing brands can also be bought in their own stores. These are mainly in Chiaia and on the Vomero. Haggling is generally possible with private dealers. The Neapolitans love to bargain whether they are buying a pair of socks or a car. Especially for low-priced products, prices in the city can be very different. It is therefore advisable to buy it carefully.
Books can be at Feltrinelli be bought at the main train station or another branch. There are numerous smaller university bookstores for Italian-language academic literature on Via Mezzocannone and Corso Umberto. In the "Copisterie" around the university, relevant specialist books for lectures and seminars can be purchased as inexpensive copies.
Under no circumstances should you buy things on the street that are worth more than five euros. Fraudsters often sell stolen or professionally counterfeited goods, from cameras, cell phones, shoes and jackets to power drills. It is also possible that after the purchase the packaging does not contain any goods, only a stone. Are popular too Bancarelle, Booths where cards, cones or other games are offered and apparently actively practiced. There you play for money, but only for that of the participant - all other players belong to the team. The counterfeit branded products are often of poor quality or contain toxins.
The Christmas market along the is also very popular with tourists Spaccanapoli, which tourists flock to during the Christmas season to buy handmade nativity scenes and figurines. At this time the street is hardly accessible due to the sheer number of people.
kitchen
The cuisine in Naples is excellent, it's really hard to eat badly in Naples. They say Pizza, pasta and Caffè, almost half of the Italian cuisine, comes from Naples. There are many family-run restaurants that serve set menus at good prices for lunch and dinner. It is not advisable to use small pizzas that have been lying in a showcase all day and then briefly put in the microwave to warm up. In good restaurants they are freshly prepared, you pay a maximum of two euros. Naples is known for a wide variety of tasty dishes Street snacks like Panzarotti, Zeppole, Arancini (actually from Sicily, but here filled with buffalo mozzarella) or frittatine.
You should especially go for the simply topped pizzas Margherita or Marinara choose which, in their simplicity, offer the greatest taste experience. There are pizzerias that only offer these types of food. The best pizzerias are in the historic center. In many restaurants you pay extra Servizio (Fee for service) and Coperto (Fee for cutlery, plates, etc.), therefore 1 to 4 euros per person must be added to the net price. Water is often available for around 1 euro, sometimes free, while soft drinks and beer cost more money. The house wines too, Vini di Casa, are usually good and cheap. While tourists mostly rave about "Da Michele", "Brandi" or "Trianon" as the best pizzeria in Naples, the Neapolitans surprisingly unanimously decide on Gino Sorbillo. The boss has a social and humorous manner and repeatedly creates pizzas for charitable purposes or demands 100 euros from big-footed politicians for a pizza.
Neapolitans love sweets. There are excellent Sweetsthat can be bought here and there. The Neapolitans swear above all by the babà, an alcohol-soaked pastry that is available in dozens of other variants and sizes. You can buy the sweets in small shops or a bar to eat on the way. We recommend, for example, "La Sfogliatella Mary" at the entrance to the Galleria Umberto I. There are small shops in every corner where you can buy something to eat, such as mini pizzas (Pizzette), Saltimbocca, filled rolls and the like. There are also very good ice cream and chocolate makers, especially Gay Odin with several branches. The prices are high, but the excellent quality is reasonable.
Instead of a cafeteria, students can eat at a discount in various "Trattorie" such as the "Cavallino Bianco". For three euros you can choose two courses from many different (warmed up) dishes, plus bread and a bottle of water. In order to receive the price, the "Tessera" (chip card) is required, which can be found in the A.Di.S.U. (comparable to the German student union). The normal price for the menu is 7 to 8 euros. If you are not a student at all, you can push the price with a little luck and knowledge of Italian.
nightlife
There are a few theaters, cinemas and a large number of cafes. Clubs are either in the historic old town (mostly student clubs) or otherwise all over the city. The self-respecting Neapolitans like to go after Chiaia, an extremely rich district, where life is completely different than in the historic old town. There you usually sit in cafes, see and be seen. Bookstores are often open for a long time, so people like to go there and read a book (purchase is not essential).
You usually get to your destination by bus or train, but you should probably use taxis for the return journey, as the trains stop traffic at around 11 p.m. and the buses often do not enter them Peripheria drive (everything outside the city center). In addition, one should be careful at night because of possible robbers.
That is also entertaining Notte Bianca, the white night that takes place in autumn and turns night into day. Then thousands are out on the streets to see public concerts or other art performances.
accommodation
There are a large number Hotels in all price ranges and districts. Very cheap, but at best mid-range hotels are located in Piazza Garibaldi. A single room is available there for 30 euros. Most hotels are between 60 and 100 euros (three to four stars). All hotels that are located on the "Lungomare Caracciolo" and offer a view of the sea (in many rooms) are expensive. When booking, expressly confirm that you will get such a room - and none facing the backyard. The luxury segment is diversified in Naples, all international chains are represented with one house. Here you like to pay 200 euros and more. So-called Bed & Breakfast (B&B), mostly cheaper accommodations, comparable to two- to three-star hotels, often without a lot of service, but which can also be small four-star hotels with luxurious rooms and frescoes on the ceiling.
Hotels can be booked through intermediary services, e.g. B. HRS. Bed & Breakfast are often listed in portals such as Hostelworld, but even in 2015 it should not be assumed that every Neapolitan landlord takes care of an appropriate internet presence. Accommodation prices on Capri are at least twice as high as in Naples. Sometimes it is worth taking the ferry back in the evening.
Naples also has just under a dozen Hostels and one youth hostel in Mergellina, which belongs to the national youth hostel association. The hostels mainly offer multi-bed rooms but also single rooms. An overnight stay in a shared room costs between 15 and 25 euros. Many of the privately run hostels offer good comfort, are conveniently located and have services such as WiFi or breakfast included in the price. The facilities and structural condition of the hostels surpass some three-star hotels. In general, the overnight stay should be booked in advance directly with the hostel or via an online portal, as the prices for unannounced arrival are often set arbitrarily or calculated on the basis of inflated standard price lists. For example, the following are recommended:
- La Controra, Piazza Trinità alla Cesarea. Salvator Rosa metro stop, including breakfast, WiFi, kitchen and courtyard.
- Hostel of the Sun, Via Guglielmo Melisurgo. Università metro stop, including breakfast, WiFi, kitchen.
- 6 small rooms, Via Diodato Lioy. Metro stops Toledo and Dante, including WiFi, kitchen.
For long-term stays, you can either go to one of the numerous brokers (tenancies from six months) or look around at the universities and in the surrounding area for glued-on slips of paper (very numerous). Or you can buy one of the two advertising newspapers that appear once or twice a week (Bric à Brac and Il Mattone). Landlords are mostly private, the rents are often significantly higher than in Germany, since normally only foreigners and students live to rent - Neapolitans buy apartments, at the latest when they get married. Apartments can also be accessed via the online portal EasyStanza.it being found. Not all landlords are trustworthy, you should pay attention to the seriousness of the offer.
In the center you pay 400 to 800 euros per month for a small single apartment, depending on the location, size and furnishings. On the Housing market one differentiates between Apartment intero (a separate apartment for one to three people, from 400 euros), one Camera singola (Single room, 200 to 400 euros) and one Posto letto (Bed in a room with up to four people, 150 to 300 euros). Italians often rent a large apartment together. There are apartments in which 12 or even 15 people live (especially in old buildings, the Palazziwhere sometimes an entire floor consists of just one or two apartments).
Basically you pay one to two months' rent as a deposit, for which you don't have to pay the last rent. Rental agreements are unusual, and often impossible, with private landlords. Rooms and apartments are almost always rented out furnished, usually with a washing machine and simple kitchen equipment. The apartments usually do not have heating, so that additional costs are only due for electricity, water and occasionally a new gas bottle for cooking. The cold in winter should not be underestimated, even Naples is sometimes covered by a thin layer of snow. A heater and blankets are then worth gold in the apartment.
If you need an apartment, the best thing to do is to go to Naples, check into cheap accommodation there and look for an apartment on site. The supply is usually not very tight, especially at the end of the semester, i.e. between June and October, there are a lot of vacant apartments. Very different apartments are offered for the same price, so the first offer should not be accepted immediately if the apartment is not one hundred percent.
Learn
There are a good half dozen universities in Naples. The largest university is the Università degli Studi di Napoli Federico II, which has a renowned law faculty, where, among others, the lawyer of Diego Maradona teaches. Linguistics, cultural studies and other humanities are best done at the Università degli Studi di Napoli "L'Orientale" to study. This university has a focus on Asia, especially China. There are also those Parthenope or the Seconda Università degli Studi di Napoli with locations in Aversa and Caserta, which is the first point of contact for medicine and engineering. In Italy, too, the study programs have been converted to the Bachelor and Master system since the Bologna reform. This process is not yet as advanced as in Germany. For each course you receive "punti crediti", which corresponds to the ECTS points. Most of the exams are oral and take place in the lecture hall. The lecturer and / or several employees sit at the desk and from 9 a.m. all candidates are gradually called to the front. There is usually a break at 1 p.m. The procedure lasts until around 5 p.m., depending on the number of students. However, it can happen that many students attend at short notice and not all of them can be examined in one day. Then the exam continues the following day.
The universities have immensely high student numbers on paper, but their premises are relatively small, as many students are only enrolled as card holders or are not present. The structures are often confusing, as the universities are both in faculties and in Dipartimenti are divided and responsibilities overlap. Current course catalogs are often not available; verbal information must be obtained from the porter every day for room occupancy. At the beginning of the semester, it is best to make a list of the lecturers, go to their offices and find out about courses, locations and times. The office hours are often not adhered to, but after an agreement by e-mail, a conversation usually works smoothly. The professors are usually very helpful to foreign students and often offer individual exams if you have language difficulties. Lecturers should not be expected to be proficient in English or German. Most of the events are frontal lessons in which the professor reads from the book and then leaves the auditorium.
For foreign students there is on Centro Interdipartimentale di servizi Linguistici e Audiovisivi (kurz: CILA) der Orientale immer einen qualitativ hochwertigen Sprachkurs auf dem gewünschten Niveau gratis. Weitere Kurse können danach bei Bedarf kostenpflichtig belegt werden. Das CILA bietet auch die Vermittlung von Tandempartnern zum Italienisch lernen an. Als Deutscher findet man dabei problemlos einen Partner, da viele italienische Studenten deutsch lernen möchten. Dies ist auch eine ideale Gelegenheit, um Neapolitaner kennenzulernen, falls man ansonsten in einer Erasmus-WG lebt.
Work
Arbeit finden ist schwer in Neapel. Die Arbeitslosigkeit ist weit verbreitet, Armut macht sich insbesondere in den Vororten breit. Studentenjobs sind selten und wenn, sehr schlecht bezahlt (2 € die Stunde). Die meisten italienischen Studenten arbeiten nicht, sondern werden von ihren Familien unterhalten.
security
Grundsätzlich ist Neapel für Touristen nicht unsicherer als andere Städte des europäischen Südens. Es sollte jedoch bedacht werden, dass die Armut enorm groß und die Camorra nach wie vor größter Arbeitgeber der Stadt ist. Mit schwerer Kriminalität wie Schießereien zwischen verfeindeten Mafiagruppen werden Touristen nicht in Berührung kommen.
The Bahnhofsvorplatz (Piazza Garibaldi), der aktuell grundlegend umgestaltet wird, ist immer noch ein Anziehungspunkt für allerlei zwielichtige Gestalten. So gibt es hier Hütchenspieler, Betrüger, die "günstige" Smartphones anbieten, oder zahlreiche Händler geschmuggelter Waren wie Zigaretten, oder gefälschter Waren wie Handtaschen (Der Kauf ist strafbar sowohl für Händler als auch für Kunden). Hierbei sollte immer bedacht werden, dass auch in Neapel ein Tourist für jeden schon aus der Distanz als solcher zu erkennen ist. Wer als Tourist hier nach seiner Ankunft angesprochen wird, sollte immer die Möglichkeit eines Betrugsversuchs im Hinterkopf behalten, ohne jeden Neapolitaner unter Generalverdacht zu stellen. Grundsätzlich werden Touristen, die mit Tennissocken, knielangen Hosen und Safarihüten herumlaufen eher Opfer von Diebstählen als solche, die sich äußerlich den örtlichen Vorstellungen von Stil und Mode anpassen und damit in der Masse der Einheimischen untertauchen.
Geldbörsen sollten nicht in Hosen- oder Jackentaschen stecken, die von außen zu öffnen sind. Ideal sind stattdessen Taschen an der Brustinnenseite. Auch kleine Umhängetaschen, in die nicht mehr hineinpasst als Geld, Papiere und Schlüssel, haben sich bewährt. Ein hohes Diebstahlrisiko besteht in den Bus routes vom und zum Hauptbahnhof sowie entlang der Sehenswürdigkeiten. Diese sind oft überfüllt und bieten Dieben gute Gelegenheiten. Auch Neapolitaner werden hier nicht verschont. Die Metro kann hingegen gefahrlos betreten werden.
In den engen Altstadtgassen kommt es gelegentlich zu Raubüberfällen von einem Motorrad aus, bei denen die ganze Handtasche fortgerissen wird und Verletzungen des Opfers in Kauf genommen werden. Die Wahrscheinlichkeit, selbst einmal betroffen zu sein, ist jedoch sehr gering, was bereits die schiere Masse der Menschen beweist, die jeden Tag unbeschadet durch Neapel laufen. Auf größeren Plätzen ist oft eine Polizeistreife in Sichtweite. Im Ernstfall sollte aber nicht damit gerechnet werden, dass die Beamten mit flammendem Eifer den Verbleib einer deutschen Geldbörse ermitteln. In Neapel gibt es für die Staatsmacht wichtigere Dinge zu tun. Wer aufgeregt und wutentbrannt bei Polizisten lospoltert anstatt neapolitanische Coolness walten zu lassen, wird meist belächelt.
ATMs können mit geringer Wahrscheinlichkeit manipuliert sein. Hier gilt es, solche Automaten zu bevorzugen, die sich in einem Bankgebäude befinden. Auf der Via Toledo befinden sich mehrere solcher 24 Stunden geöffneten Automaten.
Allgemein hängt die security in Neapel stark vom Stadtteil ab. Forcella, Rione Sanità und Quartieri Spagnoli (Altstadt) gelten als eher unsicher, während auf dem Vomero oder in Posillipo vor allem Millionäre in schicken Villen leben. Geringe Gefahr besteht auch in Mergellina, Fuorigrotta, Chiaia oder Arenella. Innerhalb der Viertel können von Straße zu Straße erhebliche Unterschiede auszumachen sein. Bei Scampia und Secondigliano handelt es sich um Armenviertel, die aus zahlreichen Presseberichten bekannt sind. Vor allem in Scampia ist die Mafia stark vertreten, Drogen und Armut allgegenwärtig. Hier leben offiziell knapp 38.000 Einwohner, aber zusätzlich sollen nochmals 30.000 unregistrierte Menschen sich dort aufhalten. Sie sind jedoch außerhalb des Zentrums im Nordosten gelegen, dorthin gelangt man nur, wenn man die Viertel bewusst ansteuert. Eine unwirtliche Gegend ist der Stadtteil östlich des Hauptbahnhofes (Gianturco), wo vor allem chinesische Import-Export-Firmen angesiedelt sind. Diese profitieren übrigens auch von der lokalen Mafia und den daraus sehr laschen Einfuhrbestimmungen, die man sich gerne für die Einfuhr von Textilien für ganz Europa zu Nutze macht.
Vielen Formen der Kriminalität begegnet man als Tourist aber niemals, wie dem cavallo di ritorno (dem „Pferd um nach Hause zu kommen“), was in Neapel den Diebstahl des Eigentums (bspw. des Rollers oder Autos und zumeist durch Bekannte des Bestohlenen) bezeichnet, woraufhin das Eigentum dann dem Bestohlenen im Nachhinein vergünstigt zum Rückkauf angeboten wird.
Häufig finden in Neapel politische Demonstrationen linker Oppositionsparteien und Organisationen, Streiks der Gewerkschaften und Studentenproteste statt. Es ist hierbei fast die Regel, dass es zu Ausschreitungen mit der Polizei kommt. Das liegt vor allem an der großen Politikverdrossenheit der Neapolitaner, in deren Leben der Staat nicht als positiv wirkende Instanz in Erscheinung tritt. Wer nicht in solche Vorfälle verwickelt werden möchte, sollte Demonstrationen von vornherein meiden.
Die Kriminalität und die Mafia von der hierzulande ab und zu im Fernsehen berichtet wird, sind sehr real und allgegenwärtig, auch wenn auf Nachfrage so gut wie niemand über sie sprechen möchte: Die Camorra übt ihren Einfluss mal mehr und mal weniger sichtbar aus und ist stets über alles auf dem laufenden: Wirkliche Anonymität existiert in Neapel trotz seiner circa 1,5 Millionen Einwohner nicht. Andererseits kommen Touristen mit Schutzgelderpressung nicht in Berührung, da sie durch Übernachtungen und Restaurantbesuche ohnehin Geld in der Stadt lassen und ein wichtiger Wirtschaftsfaktor sind. Es ist davon auszugehen, dass die Camorra in Sachen Straßenkriminalität mäßigend eingewirkt hat, damit das auch in Zukunft so bleibt. Ihrer Haupteinnahmequellen sind ohnehin anders gelagert: Illegale Müllentsorgung, Ergatterung von Bauaufträgen und Produkt- und Geldfälschung. Nichtsdestotrotz hat der Staat seit Jahren auch Militär in Neapel stationiert, welches zusätzlich zu mehr als fünf weiteren Einheiten der Polizei, wie der Polizia di Stato, der Arma dei Carabinieri, der Guardia di Finanza, sowie Europol und weiteren Sicherheitskräften die Camorra bekämpfen und insbesondere an öffentlichen Plätzen im Gebiet der Innenstadt Sicherheitsposten errichtet haben, da es über die Jahre immer wieder zu Schießereien zwischen den konkurrierenden Camorra-Gruppen kam, bei welchen auch unschuldige Passanten zu Schaden kamen. Insgesamt kommt man jedoch mit einem vertretbaren Maß an Vorsicht und Menschenkenntnis insbesondere als Tourist genauso gut in Neapel zurecht wie in anderen Städten Italiens und Spaniens. Statistisch dürften mindestens 99 % der Besucher Neapels ohne negative Erfahrungen zurückkommen. Gezielte Nachfragen bei Neapolitanern zu Kriminalität und Armut werden meist als Frevel wahrgenommen, da die Einwohner ihre Stadt als Mekka von Kunst, Kultur und Mode sehen.
Verkehr
Der Straßenverkehr kann durchaus gefährlich sein, wenn man nicht aufpasst. Vor allem als Fußgänger sollte man vorsichtig sein. Auf Schutzwegen wird meist nicht angehalten, auch grüne Ampeln für den Fußgänger geben keine Sicherheit, dass kein Fahrzeug trotzdem entgegenkommt. Die Geschwindigkeitsbegrenzungen werden kaum eingehalten und es wird gerne und oft auf den Straßen gehupt.
health
Das Leitungswasser in Neapel ist stark verschmutzt und gesundheitlich bedenklich. Die amerikanische Militärbasis nördlich von Neapel hat 92% der Wasserproben als bedenklich eingestuft. Das Gesundheitssystem ist relativ kompliziert. Mit einem Auslandskrankenschein kann man nur bestimmte, öffentliche Krankenhäuser in Anspruch nehmen. Der bauliche Zustand der Krankenhäuser in den ärmeren Viertel Neapels ist abschreckend und mit deutschen Standards nicht zu vergleichen (z.B. Ospedale Ascalesi). Die meisten niedergelassenen Ärzte sind Privatärzte.
- Ospedale Cardinale Ascalesi, Via Egiziaca a Forcella, 31, 80139 Napoli. Tel.: 39 081 254 2195.
Practical advice
Kommunizieren ist leicht. Die Neapolitaner reden gerne und viel, egal ob man selbst versteht oder nicht, und können sehr herzlich sein, wenn man ihnen offen begegnet. Zumeist findet man einen Weg zum Ziel, egal wie. Erwarten Sie nicht, dass viele Leute Englisch sprechen. Französisch, Spanisch oder sonstige romanische Sprachen sind da schon leichter anzutreffen. Einige Einwohner können nicht mal Italienisch - in Neapel spricht man neapolitanisch, ein Dialekt von dem selbst mit sehr guten Italienischkenntnissen kaum etwas zu verstehen ist. Nur mit Ausländern oder in offiziellen Situationen spricht man Italienisch.
In ihrer Armut muss man den Neapolitanern eins zu Gute halten - sie verlieren selten die Hoffnung und schon gar nicht den Humor; auch wenn letzterer für Ausländer oft nicht so humorvoll scheint. Das Chaos in der Stadt spiegelt die zerrissene Gesellschaft wieder: Der Verkehr ist verrückt, wer Angst hat, kommt keine zehn Meter - die Devise lautet "einfach gehen".
Man kommt mit jedem über alles zu jeder Zeit ins Gespräch, Unterhaltungen quer durch den Bus sind vollkommen normal. Das Grundprinzip der Stadt lautet Arrangiarsi - sich (miteinander) arrangieren, ein Prinzip das bald schon zur Lebenskultur erhoben wird.
Es gibt Stadtviertel, in denen sollte man immer einen Blick nach oben werfen - Müll wird hier durch das Fenster entsorgt und Größe, Form oder Konsistenz spielen keine Rolle. Zu Neujahr kauft man sich, wenn Geld vorhanden ist, traditionellerweise neue Sachen wie Möbel oder Elektrogeräte, die alten Sachen fliegen dann auch mal aus dem Fenster, Waschmaschinen oder Kühlschränke nicht ausgeschlossen. Vorsichtshalber parken daher auch alle Anwohner zuvor ihre Autos um.
Zu Karneval mögen die Neapolitaner es, Leute zu teeren und zu federn, oder besser zu eiern und zu mehlen - Kinder laufen mit Mehltüten und Eierschachteln umher und die Plätze sind voller Eierschalen. Um die Weihnachtszeit ist der Kunstschnee aus der Sprühdose ein beliebtes Kinderspielzeug, zum Leidwesen insbesondere der Frauen, die dieses oft nur mit einem "Ma che rompicoglioni!" kommentieren.
An schönen Sommertagen kann die Stadt aber auch wunderschön sein und die Atmosphäre beflügelt alle Einwohner. Am Ende ist es eine Einstellungsfrage, ob man sich um das Chaos schert oder nicht. Überleben wird man es mit ziemlicher Sicherheit.
The prefix für Neapel lautet 081. Aus dem Ausland wählt man 39081 als Vorwahl. Die zahlreich vorhandenen öffentlichen Fernsprecher können nur mit Telefonkarten genutzt werden, die an den meisten Kiosken erhältlich sind.
Bei längeren Aufenthalten in Neapel und Italien kann sich der Erwerb einer italienischen SIM-Karte von den Anbietern TIM, WIND, Vodafone oder Tre lohnen. Marktführer ist TIM, dieser bietet die beste Netzabdeckung. Als preisgünstiger Anbieter ist WIND zu empfehlen, hier ist die Netzabdeckung nur unwesentlich schlechter, dafür werden sehr günstige Telefon- und Datentarife angeboten. Der Kauf einer Prepaidkarte ist in jeder Filiale dieser Anbieter möglich. Die Verkäufer sprechen meist nur Italienisch, die wichtigsten Begriffe können vorab im Internet herausgesucht werden - idealerweise auch bereits der gewünschte Tarif. Das Guthaben kann jederzeit mit einer Rubbelkarte zu unterschiedlichen Beträgen aufgeladen werden, die man an jedem Kiosk bekommt. Um den Code einzugeben, muss eine kostenfreie Hotline angerufen werden. Die Menüführung ist auf Italienisch, zumindest rudimentäre Sprachkenntnisse sind hilfreich. In den Filialen der Netzanbieter kann das Konto direkt aufgeladen werden, wenn die eigene Telefonnummer genannt wird.
The Post Code ist 80100.
trips
- Zu den Inseln vor Neapel, u. a. Ischia and capri (letztere ist besser für Tagesreisen, da wesentlich kleiner).
- To the Vesuvius
- Zu den Ausgrabungsstätten von Pompeii and Herkulaneum (Ercolano)
- About the Amalfi Coast to Salerno (97 km südlich)
literature
Über Neapel:
- Dieter Richter: Neapel - Biographie einer Stadt. Klaus Wagenbach, Berlin 2005. ISBN 380312509X
- Roberto Savianio: Gomorrha. Reise in das Reich der Camorra. München 2009. ISBN 978-3-423-34529-3
In der Literatur:
- Luciano De Crescenzo: Also sprach Bellavista - Neapel, Liebe und Freiheit. Diogenes, Zürich 1988. ISBN 3-257-21670-X
- Marcello D'Orta: In Afrika ist immer August. Sechzig Schulaufsätze neapolitanischer Kinder. Diogenes, Zürich 1993. ISBN 3-257-22632-2
- Marcello D'Orta: Am liebsten Neapel. Streifzüge durch meine Stadt. Rotbuch, Hamburg 1999. ISBN 3-434-53033-9
- Curzio Malaparte: Die Haut. Fischer, Frankfurt am Main 1991. ISBN 3-596-29275-1
- Marino Niola: Totem und Ragù - Neapolitanische Spaziergänge. Luchterhand, München 2000. ISBN 3-630-88001-0
Web links
- http://www.comune.napoli.it – Offizielle Webseite von Neapel
- Naples, Italy Virtual reality movies and photo gallery
