Starara Roussa | |
Information | |
Country | Russia |
---|---|
Area | 18,54 km² |
Population | 29 019 hab. () |
Density | 1 565,21 inhab./km² |
Postal code | 175200–175207 |
Spindle | UTC 03:00 |
Location | |
Official site | |
Starara Roussa (in Russian: Старая Русса) is a small historic town in the center ofNovgorod oblast, long locally renowned for the mineral waters of its spa resort, but it is much better known among international travelers as Dostoyevsky's summer residence, and his inspiration from the city to create the fictional town of Skotoprigonievsk in "Les Brothers Karamazov ”.
Understand
Staraïa Roussa was probably founded around the middle of the 19th century.e century, but appears for the first time in chronicles of the year 1076. It is then one of the three main cities of the republic of Novgorod, next to Pskov and Ladoga. Its name dates back to the time of the Varangians, who called themselves Rous. Staraya Roussa controlled important trade routes leading from Polotsk in Novgorod and Kiev.
Roussa's buildings were made of wood and were completely burned down in 1190 and 1194. The city gained a lot of prestige with the creation of the monastery of the Transfiguration in the 12th century.e century. In 1478 Rousa was incorporated into Muscovy at the same time as Novgorod. The word Staraïa (Old) was added to her name in the 15th century.e century, to distinguish it from new localities called Roussa.
XVe century to XVIIe century, the old merchant city was transformed into a prosperous industrial center, with the saltworks as the main activity. When Ivan the Terrible ascended the throne, Staraya Roussa was the fourth most famous city in Russia, after Moscow, Novgorod and Pskov. During the troubled times of the interregnum (1610–1613) until the establishment of the Romanov dynasty, it was in the hands of Polish brigands and became so depopulated that only 38 inhabitants remained by 1613.
In 1824, Tsar Alexander Ie created, near Staraïa Roussa, “military colonies”, where an uprising took place in 1831, within the framework of the riots caused by an epidemic of cholera. The city appears as Skotoprigonievsk in Dostoevsky's novel The Brothers Karamazov (1879-80). Soviet power was established in Staraya Roussa on November 18 (November 5 in the Orthodox calendar) b 1917. The city was occupied by theGermany Nazi to and was totally destroyed by the occupier.
Despite destruction over time, many old wooden houses (including Dostoyevsky's residence) and several important churches have remained intact, and other institutions, such as the spa resort, have been rebuilt. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the city's population declined (as in the rest of rural Russia). The city now seems sleepy and is a big change of pace for travelers who have spent most of their time in Saint PETERSBOURG or to Moscow. The residential areas near the rivers are quite peaceful, the locals are friendly and laid back, and there is enough Dostoyevsky-related sites to visit. Outside the summer season, and despite the city's ties to Dostoyevsky, the place is hardly visited by foreigners.
To go
Transport links to Staraïa_Roussa are somewhat limited. The city is best visited as an excursion from Novgorod, or as a detour or a stopover on the road between Moscow (or Valday) at Pskov Where Novgorod.
By train
Train station | Railway Company | Destinations |
---|---|---|
|
From Moscow (nine to ten hours) or from Pskov (three and a half hours) you can take the line Moscow - Pskov, the line is generally run by a single train during the day and night trains. A daily local train connects Bologoye (via Valdai) on the line Moscow–Saint PETERSBOURG and Dno on the line Kiev–Saint PETERSBOURG.
By bus
- 2 Bus station (Автостанция) Železnodorožnaya ulitsa (Next to the train station.), 7 816 5222401 Every day from 5 h22 h.
Buses connect every hour Novgorod. The journey takes about two hours. Coming from Moscow, it's a good way to avoid having to wait for one of the rare trains. Of Saint PETERSBOURG, you can take one of the six direct buses to StaraÏa Roussa in six hours. Note that most buses terminate in nearby towns like Kholm (Холм), Parfino (Парфино) or Volot (Волот) and will therefore display these names as the main destination.
By car
Since Novgorod, follow the A116 to Shimsk, then the P51 to Staraya Russa (96 km).
Since Moscow, follow the M9 to Rzhev and turn for Selizharovo. Continue on the P87 to Ostashkov, then local roads to Demyansk, then to Staraya Roussa. Alternatively, follow the M10, pass through Valdai, and continue left along the P48 towards Demyansk and Staraya Russa. The two routes are approximately 600 km and involve using secondary roads that are sometimes poorly maintained in theNovgorod oblast, although the second route is supposed to be safer and more reliable.
Circulate
Although it is not such a small town, it is still possible to get around everywhere on foot. Hiring a taxi is a good way to cut journey times if, for example, you need to quickly catch a bus to Novgorod. A taxi from the Dostoyevsky House Museum should cost around 50 RUB. From the bus and train stations you can take the 1, 4, 6, or 11 bus to the center, but given the slow speed of the buses that run, it's probably just as quick to make the trip by walking.
To see
Civil buildings
- 1 Dostoevsky Cultural Center (Научно-культурный центр Ф.М.Достоевского) nab. Dostoevskovo, 8, 7 816 52 37-285 Tue-Fri, Sun 10 h - 18 h. 70 RUB ; tours: 300 RUB. – This neat little neoclassical building features small temporary exhibitions on the life and works of Fyodor Mikhailovich Dostoyevsky. If you are interested in a local guide who can take you around the literary sites of the city (in Russian) You are in the right place.
- 2 Dostoevsky House Museum (Дом-музей Ф.М.Достоевского) nab. Dostoevskovo, 42/2, 7 816 52 51-477 every day 10 h - 18 h. 70 RUB. – The Dostoyevsky family spent their summers in the healthy climate of the land of Staraya Roussa from 1872 to 1914, even well after the writer's death in 1881. The time he lived in Staraya Roussa saw the creation of some of his works most important, in particular his masterpiece "The Brothers Karamazov ". The large green wooden dacha on the bank of the river is today a carefully maintained sanctuary dedicated to this great 19th century writer.e century. The site survived the revolutions and wars of the twentiethe century without damage. The ground floor hosts exhibitions, while upstairs, the furniture is arranged to recreate the house at the time of the Dostoyevsky family.
- 3 Groušenka House (Дом Грушеньки) nab. Glebova, 25 – The description of Grouchegnka's house, as depicted in The Brothers Karamazov, was based on this lovely house from the 1850s. Private property.
- 4 Living bridge (Живой мост) (along the Polist river)
- 5 Northwest Front Museum (Музей северо-западного фронта) ul. Volodarskovo, 25, 7 816 52 35-285 Mon, Wed-Fri 10 h and 18 h, Sun 9 h - 17 h. 70 RUB.
Religious buildings
- 6 Cathedral of the Resurrection (Воскресенский собор) ul. Resurrection (ул. Возрождения), 1 – This monumental cathedral was built towards the end of the XVIIe century. She looks pretty impressive at a distance and in her surroundings, but she doesn't have any particular appeal once you get close to her.
- 7 Mina Moutchenik Church (Церковь Великомученика Мины) ul. Georgievskaya (ул. Георгиевская), 44 – Despite its two reconstructions and its current state of disrepair, it is a magnificent XIV churche century that has been preserved. According to legend, the invaders Swedish, having destroyed much of the city, came to the church seeking refuge from the elements for the night, but on entering the church became blind. The blinded soldiers were sent back to Sweden as proof of miracles and the general strangeness of things happening in the Russian territories they occupied.
- 8 Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Savior (Спасо-Преображенский монастырь) Frunze Square, ul. Volodarskovo (ул. Володарского), 7 816 52 35-666 Mon. : 10 h - 18 h, sea.- Fri. : 10 h - 18 h, sat.- Sun. : 9 h - 17 h. museum and gallery 70 RUB each. – The monastery includes the magnificent Cathedral of the Transfiguration from 1442, the Church of the Nativity from the beginning of the XVIIe century and the Sretensky church from the beginning of the XVIIe century, all the buildings of the complex are topped with charming wooden domes. Closed after the Bolshevik Revolution, it is today managed by the Local History Museum, which houses in the buildings both a small regional museum and an art gallery with exhibits by local artists.
- 9 Church of St. George and the Annunciation (Георгиевская церковь) ul. Georgievskaya (ул. Георгиевская), 26 – Dating from 1410, this stone church was the church of the Dostoyevsky family during their summers in the city. During their first summer in Staraya Russa, the Dostoyevsky family settled in the house of the priest-dean, Father Rumyantsev, and it is in this house that the writer finished his book. The Possessed (in Russian: Бесы). Although the building is not a shining example of old Russian architecture, it does retain some of the charm of the countryside.
- 10 St. Nicholas Church (Церковь Николая Чудотворца) ul. Krasnykh Komandirov (ул. Красных Командиров), 8 – Originally it was a church built in 1371. Currently, the classical bell towers were built at the beginning of the 18th century.e century, while the church was rebuilt. Unfortunately, modern renovations and decoration have ruined the elegance of this ancient church.
- 11 Church of the Trinity (Троицкая церковь) ul. Frunze (ул. Фрунзе), 12a – A well-preserved church dating from 1676, characteristic of 17th century merchant class churchese century, in the center in the central park of the city.
Do
- 1 Staraïa Roussa balneotherapy center (Курорт Старая Русса) ul. Mineral'naya (ул. Минеральная), 62, 7 816 5231603 The Muravyovsky fountain only "gives" water between 7 h and 9 h, 11 h 30 and 14 h 30, 18 h - 19 h 30. – While today's foreigners come to Staraya Roussa because of Dostoyevsky, and only Dostoyevsky, the city had for hundreds of years been known for its spa resort, where Russians came there for treatment to benefit from the treatments of mineral water and mud baths. The buildings and sculptures in the park are for the most part quite ordinary, on the other hand the Muravyovsky fountain is worth a visit. This large fountain in the center of the complex is built on top of a natural mineral spring, for years it has been overlooked by a rather marvelous metal pavilion, with covered galleries, adorned with wooden sculptures, ranging from the fountain at the hotel and at the wooden theater. Unfortunately, the complex was almost completely destroyed during WWII. In the early 1980s, the government made a half-hearted attempt to erect a new metal dome over the fountain, but salt sprayed from the fountain corroded the metal and it was quickly knocked down. Today the fountain is only a shadow of its once majestic stature, even the flow has been reduced to reduce the damage of salt water on nearby trees. But you can still taste its waters, cold or hot depending on how it comes out of the land, at the water pavilion just behind the fountain.
To buy
- 1 Library (Магазин "Книга") ul. Lenina (ул. Ленина), 6, 7 816 5237705 9 h - 18 h, pause 14 h - 15 h. – A small paperback bookstore with road maps of the region.
- 2 Pichi Bookstore, Tchitay (Магазин "Пиши, читай") ul. Engel'sa (ул. Энгельса), 3, 7 816 5251755 9 h 30 - 18 h 30, pause 14 h - 15 h. – Another bookstore with a comparable choice.
- 3 Store "Korobeynyk" (магазине "Коробейник") ul. Mineral'naya (ул. Минеральная), 61 (Near the balneotherapy center) – You can find some souvenirs there.
- 4 Sberbank ul. Karl Marksa (ул. Карла Маркса), 25 Mon.- sat. : 9 h - 19 h. – Bank
Groceries
- 5 Kvartal grocery store (продуктов "Квартал") ul. Lenina (ул. Ленина), 8 (Right next to the bookstore) Open until 23 h.
- 6 Magnyt grocery store (продуктов "Магнит") ul. Lenina (ул. Ленина), 9
Eat
Cheap
- 1 Cafe Grill (Кафе "Гриль") ul. Krasnykh Partizan (ул. Красных Партизан), 8, 7 816 52 52-232 Mon.- Fri. : 9 h - 18 h, sat. : 10 h - 15 h. – This small cafe located away from the train station serves lunches to the locals. Join them for fish or grilled meat, both are worth it.
- 2 Cafe Princessa (Кафе "Принцесса") ul. Karla Marksa (ул. Карла Маркса), 18, 7 816 523-5316 11 h - 23 h.
- 3 Cafe Sadko (Кафе "Садко") ul. Lenina, 7, 7 816 523-1538 Mon.- Sun. : 9 h - 21 h. 50 RUB- 120 RUB. – inexpensive cafe with a very convenient location, for basic Russian food like kotlety beef or stuffed cabbage. Semi-self-service when ordering at the counter.
- 4 Сafe Tortuga (Кафе "Тортуга") ul. Karla Marksa, 27, 7 816 523-2290 10 h - 21 h. – Started as a children's cafe, this restaurant was eventually transformed into an inexpensive bar, better known as “ryumochnaya”. It is not the best place to eat unless you are deeply interested in the local drinking traditions or just want to taste the tasty pirozhki on sale here.
- 5 Cafeteria (Кулинария) ul. Tribuny, 3 – Popular among locals, this cafe shop offers a variety of local pastries as well as hot items served in plastic dishes.
Average price
- 6 Blinnaya Apel'sin (Блинная "Апельсин") ul. Karla Marksa, 10, 7 816 52 31-063 Mon.- Sun. : 10 h - 22 h. Pancakes between 40 and 80 RUB. – free. Although cafes are almost non-existent in Staraya Russa, this place would be your best option for drinking coffee or enjoying sweets. Start with stuffed pancakes and continue for coffee, cocktail, or dessert.
- 7 OKAMI Cafe-bar (Кафе-бар OKAMI) ul. Karla Libknehta, 10, 7 921 606-19-99, 7 911 615-49-99 Mon.- Sun. : 12 h - 23 h. Pizza for 150 RUB-300 RUB. – free. This cryptically named restaurant offers what has become the most popular foods in Russia: pizza and sushi. Fortunately, they don't mix them up.
- 8 Cafe Druzya (Кафе "Друзья") ul. Karla Marksa, 2, 7 816 52 57-034 Mon.- Game. : 12 h - 2 h, Fri. : 12 h - 4 h, sat. : 16 h - 4 h, Sun. : 14 h - 2 h. meals for surroundings 200 RUB. – A small and mundane cafe, but positively revised.
- 9 Cafe Il'men ' (Кафе "Ильмень") ul. Mineral'naya, 45a, 7 816 523-1968 Sun.- Game. : 12 h - 2 hFri.- sat. : 13 h - 4 h. 200 RUB-400 RUB. – Il 'men' is the best local restaurant (although, frankly, not a great accomplishment) outside the hotel, and if you ask for a local restaurant at the hotel, they will probably direct you here. The rate is in standard Russian and the service is in standard Russian. The menu is nice and long, so you should be able to find something to your liking. The hours go by very slowly into the night and they usually have live music, if you are looking for a bar to hang out.
- 10 Restaurant Graf Muravyov (Ресторан "Граф Муравьёв") ul. Mineral'naya, 62 (2nd floor, there is an external staircase from the street.), 7 816 52 31-676 Mon.- Sun. : 11 h - 23 h. 150 RUB-300 RUB. – It would be the weirdest choice for lunch / dinner: the spa restaurant. Although managed by the resort, it is located just north of the main grounds, allowing you to walk around without going through the sanatorium.
Have a drink / Go out
The local specialty is naturally mineral water. "Rouchanotchka" is sold in the Novgorod region, its taste is more pleasant than that drunk at the spa resort by water treatment. There is no beer produced at Staraya Russa probably due to the strong mineralization of the groundwater.
Housing
- 1 Polist Hotel (Гостиница "Полисть") ul. Engelsa, 20, 7 816 52 37-547, fax : 7 816 52 37-894, e-mail : [email protected] 1800-3 400 RUB, simple room 1 400 RUB. – free.
- Staraia Roussa (Курорт "Старая Русса") ul. Mineral'naya, 62 (Near the entrance to the Balneotherapy station.), 7 816 5231676, 7 816 5231625 room available from 12 h, to be released before 12 h. 2 800 RUB breakfast included, single room 1 400 RUB.
- 2 Hotel "Vizhavy" (Отель "Визави") ul. Mineralnaya (ул. Минеральная), 59а (Near the entrance to the Balneotherapy station.), 7 816 5232777, 7 911 6284454 Double room 2000-2 400 RUB. –
Communicate
- 1 Job ул. Санкт-Петербургская, 8
- 2 Severo-zapadnii Telekom (Северо-Западный Телеком) ул. Володарского, 2
There is internet access in the two aforementioned establishments, as well as in the library of the spa resort. A Wi-Fi network is available in some cafes and near the "Rossia" cinema (Россия).