Sudan - Sudán

Introduction

Sudan, whose official name is Republic of the Sudan (Arabic: جمهورية السودان Yumhūriyyat as-Sūdān), is a country in the northeast of Africa. Borders with Egypt to the north, Eritrea Y Ethiopia To the East, South Sudan to the south, the Central African Republic to the southwest, Chad west and Libya To the northeast. Crossed from north to south by the Nile riverSudan is populated by a mixture of people of African Nilo-Saharan and Arab origin.

Understand

History

The area around the banks of the River Nile was once known as Nubia , one of the world's first civilizations that was the main rival of its northern neighbor, Egypt. The city of Kerma is believed to have been the capital of the first centralized Nubian state. Nubia would be annexed by Egypt in the 16th century BC. C. under the rule of the pharaoh Thutmosis I, with its limits to the south extended to the city of Napata, which led to the fusion of Egyptian culture with its own native culture by the Nubians.

With the weakening of Egyptian control, a de facto independent Nubian state would reappear in Napata, becoming the Kingdom of Kush. The Kingdom of Kush would gather strength, finally conquering Egypt in the 8th century BC. C., thus establishing the 25th dynasty, with its rulers popularly known as the "black pharaohs" due to the color of their skin that contrasted with the lighter ones. the skin of the Egyptians. The southern part of the kingdom was home to the city of Meroë, known for its Nubian pyramids, which although clearly influenced by Egyptian ones, are also built in a distinctively Nubian architectural style, which later became the capital of the kingdom. During the heyday of Roman power, while Egypt was conquered by the Romans, the Kingdom of Kush managed to defend itself from the Romans under the leadership of the warrior queen Amanirenas, also known as the One-Eyed Queen for having lost an eye during a battle with the Romans. Ultimately, the Nubians proved so difficult to fight that the Romans agreed to a peace treaty, thus maintaining the independence of Nubia.

CapitalKhartoum
CurrencySudanese Pound (SDG)
Population40.5 million (2017)
Electricity230 volts / 50 hertz (Europlug, AC power plugs and sockets - British and related types)
Country code 249
Time zoneUTC 02: 00
Emergencies999
Driving sidestraight
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Sudan was plagued by civil wars for more than 40 years until South Sudan gained independence in July 2011, following a referendum. When colonial cartographers divided Africa, they included in Sudan the predominantly Muslim people of the north (including Nubians and Arabs), who share much of their history and culture with the Egyptians, and the largely Christian and animist Bantu people of the south. , which they have more in common with the rest of sub-Saharan Africa than with their compatriots in the north. Minor conflicts still persist in western Darfur, and there are hotspots on the eastern front, along the border with Eritrea. From 1989 to 2019, Sudan was under the authoritarian rule of Omar Hassan al-Bashir until a coup sparked by ongoing protests led a new military government to seize power.

Geography

Sudan is as diverse geographically as it is culturally; in the north, the Nile runs through the eastern edge of the Sahara: the Nubian Desert, the site of the Ancient Kingdoms of Cush and Meroe, and the land of the Seti. Here, modest agriculture and ranching complement the basic harvest of date palms. The east and west are mountainous regions, and much of the rest of the country comprises savannas typical of much of central sub-Saharan Africa. The vast majority of its population are Sunni Muslims and non-Sunni beliefs are not allowed to proselytize.

Along Egypt's border with Sudan is the strange stateless limbo of Bir Tawil, which is not claimed by any of the states and is therefore legally the only piece of dry land outside of Antarctica that does not belong. nor does it claim any state.

People

Sudan has almost 600 different ethnic groups. Sudanese Arabs are the largest ethnic group and other ethnic groups include Nubians, Copts, and Beja.

Regions

Central sudan

States of Khartoum, Gezira and White Nile.

Darfur

Fighting an ongoing civil war since 2003.

Eastern sudan

Kurdufan

North sudan

Follow the Nile to Egypt. Home to the pyramids of Meroë and the ancient temples and palaces of Gebel Barkal.

Cities

  1. Khartoum: the national capital, which also consists of Omdurman and Khartoum North (Bahri)
  2. Abyei: simultaneously leaves Sudan and South Sudan until a referendum can be held in the area
  3. Al Ubayyid - capital of the state of North Kurdufan
  4. Gedaref - capital of the state of Gedaref
  5. Kassala
  6. Nyala - capital of Darfur
  7. Port Sudan: Sudan's main port on the Red Sea
  8. Atbara: a major railroad crossing and railroad manufacturing center

Other destinations

  1. Jebel barkal: ancient Egyptian / Kush ruins with ruins of various temples, palaces and some pyramids. A UNESCO World Heritage site.
  2. Meroë- Ancient Nubian royal city on the banks of the Nile, home to more than 200 pyramids. A UNESCO World Heritage site.

To get

Visa

Visa restrictions:

The entrance will be denied to citizens of Israel and to those who show Israel stamps and / or visas. The same generally applies to people with an Egyptian or Jordanian entry stamp indicating that they are traveling to Israel (for example, the stamp obtained when crossing from Israel to Egypt by land). Citizens of countries eligible for the US Visa Waiver Program visiting Sudan will no longer be eligible for this program and will need to obtain a US visa from a US embassy for subsequent visits to that country.

Sudanese travel visas are expensive and difficult to acquire for some nationalities in some countries or for people with an Israeli stamp in their passport. It is advisable to obtain a Sudanese visa in your home country, if possible Refugee camp near Nyala in South Darfur

From Egypt: Cairo and Aswan are the easiest places to get one (usually a couple of hours after applying), it costs US $ 150 (as of Nov 2018), payment is now possible in Egyptian pounds. An invitation / introduction letter from your embassy is no longer needed.

From Ethiopia- Obtaining a visa from the Sudanese Embassy in Addis Ababa is extremely unpredictable, although it is cheaper (around US $ 60). His name is first sent to Khartoum simply for approval. One official has stated: "It could take two weeks, it could take two months." Once your name has been approved, the visa itself only takes a couple of days. The British and Americans are generally given more lapses, but no nationality is guaranteed to receive a visa quickly. Expect to wait a minimum of two weeks for approval. If your journey continues from Sudan to Egypt and you already have your Egyptian visa, you may be granted a one-week transit visa for Sudan in just one day, which can be extended in Khartoum (albeit at a high cost). The British Embassy in Addis Ababa charges a hefty price of 740 birr (over GBP 40) for your invitation / introduction letter.

Possibly out of date information: From Kenya, as in Addis Ababa, the Sudanese Embassy in Nairobi submits your name to Khartoum for approval. The length of time it takes is equally ambiguous, although the embassy is far more professional and more efficiently run than the one in Addis Ababa.

From kenya- Visa applications are submitted between 10:00 and 12:00 and the visa is collected the next day from 15:00 to 15:50. The price is 5,000 Kenyan shillings (Ksh) (US $ 50). The letter of support for the application can be obtained from the embassy itself (for example, the British embassy, ​​charges Ksh8,200, the response time depends on the availability of the consul who needs to sign the letter). The Sudanese Embassy is located on Kabarnet Road, off Ngong Road (a 10-minute walk from Wildebeest Campsite on Kibera Road, and close to Prestige Shopping Plaza). Google, Visa HQ etc show the old address (Minet ICDC building), which is not correct. Generally, the experience at the Sudanese Embassy in Nairobi is less confusing than in Egypt (with their queues rushing through three anonymous but different windows).

Waits of several hours for customs clearance are not unheard of and landing in Khartoum can be tricky. Entry or exit by land is normally smooth. Alcohol is banned in Sudan and attempting to import it could carry severe penalties.

Permits and other legal requirements

  • Register it is mandatory within 3 days of arrival. It costs SDG540 (as of November 2018) and can be done at any of the ports of entry, including Wadi Halfa, Khartoum, Port Sudan, and Sawakin. Don't be tempted to skip the registration as it is very likely to cause problems when you leave the country, you may not be allowed to board your flight! Although anecdotal evidence suggests that registration can be done when leaving Khartoum airport.
Hotels used to complete registration on your behalf, but it's unclear if they still do. Registration in Wadi Halfa shouldn't take more than an hour. Here, you may be approached (especially if you are in a group) by an English-speaking man who will offer to take your passports and do whatever he can while you wait outside. This is easier than doing it yourself (it's a ping pong procedure between offices, counters, desks, etc.) but you will find that the fee you add to each person's registration cost is USD2-3. It's not really that hard.
  • There's a departure tax at the land borders of SDG130. In case you are departing by plane, the departure tax is already included in the price of the plane ticket.
  • The travel permit and the photo permit they are no longer needed as of 2018.

By plane

Khartoum Airport (KRTIATA) It is the main gateway to Sudan by air. There are also some international flights that use the airport of Port Sudan.

Khartoum Airport is served by several European, Middle Eastern and African airlines. Cities with direct air links to Khartoum include Abu Dhabi (Etihad, Sudan Airways), Addis Ababa (Ethiopian Airlines), Amman (Royal Jordanian, Sudan Airways), Amsterdam Schiphol (KLM Royal Dutch Airlines), Bahrain (Gulf Air) , Cairo (EgyptAir, Sudan Airways, Ethiopian Airlines, Kenya Airways), Damascus (Syrian Airlines, Sudan Airways), Doha (Qatar Airways), Dubai Airport (Emirates, Sudan Airways), Frankfurt Airport (Lufthansa), Istanbul ( Turkish Airlines), London (British Airways, British Midlands, Sudan Airways) and Nairobi (Kenya Airways, Sudan Airways), Sharjah (Air Arabia low cost airline)

Port Sudan Airport handles flights to Jeddah, Saudi Arabia and Cairo. These flights generally start / end in Khartoum.

The airport has ruined yellow taxis that often overcharge. Alternatively, you can book taxis with a Khartoum taxi company called LimoTrip that uses metered taxis and good vehicles at better rates: 249 183 591 313 or [email protected].

By train

There are train routes between Sudan and South Sudan from the city of Babanusa in Sudan to Wau in South Sudan.

By land

Libya "temporarily" closed its land border with Sudan on December 16, 2012. It is unclear when the border will reopen.

One way to get there from Ethiopia is through the border town of Gallabat. The highway crossing from Egypt is periodically closed, depending on diplomatic and trade relations between the two countries. Please verify the information before trying this route.

By bus

When it is open, there are buses from Aswan, Egypt; be prepared for long delays of 5 to 6 hours at the border.

There is no up-to-date information on public transport between Sudan and the newly independent South Sudan.

Boat

The most reliable way to enter Sudan from Egypt is via the weekly ferry from Aswan in Egypt to Wadi Halfa. It runs to Sudan on Mondays and returns on Wednesdays and costs $ 33 per person. The ship is old and crowded with people and cargo (the best place to sleep is on deck between cargo) but it has magnificent views (including Abu Simbel). Food and drinks are available on board. There are frequent ferries from Saudi Arabia. If traveling from the south, ferry tickets can be purchased at the main Khartoum train terminal in northern Khartoum.

Travel

By plane

Note: Sudan Airways has one of the worst safety records in Africa: since March 2010, it has been banned from flying in European Union airspace for safety reasons, and is one of the worst airlines in Africa (December 2018) .

Besides Khartoum, there are small airports at Wadi Halfa, El Debba, Dongola, Port Sudan, El Fasher, Wad Madani, Merowe and El Obeid, all served by Sudan Airways. Most flights operate from Khartoum. Be prepared for schedule changes and canceled flights.

By train

Although Sudan has one of the largest rail networks in Africa, much of it is in disrepair. There is again reason for optimism about train travel in Sudan. The Nile Express , with new trains brought in from China, it now carries passengers between Khartoum and Atbara on renovated tracks. More tracks are being renovated, but for now other services are limited to local trains around the capital Khartoum, a weekly service from Wadi Halfa, timed with the ferry to / from Egypt, and a service very sporadic with Nyala. The only train operator in Sudan is Sudan Railways Corporation .

By car

Driving in Sudan is chaotic but not especially dangerous by African standards. Visitors to the area with no international driving experience are advised to hire a taxi or driver. In most of the country, a 4WD is essential; Sudan's main highway is sealed for much of the way, but most of the country's roads are dirt or sand tracks. Crossing into Sudan from Egypt via the ferry from Aswan to Wadi Halfa now has the benefit of the China-funded tarmac road that covers the 400km south to Dongola, and then to Khartoum, another 500km. This road is fast for the locals, as there are few military barricades and very little traffic.

By bus

Although buses run frequently in the busiest areas, in more remote areas people tend to use trucks or "boxes" (Toyota Hiluxes); they are generally as crowded as buses, but have fewer people sitting upstairs and get stuck on sanding less often. They tend to leave whenever they fill up, which can take half a day or so. If you have money to spare, you can hire a full one

Cycling

Cycling in Sudan is legal, although it may be advisable to forget to mention your mode of transportation when obtaining your permission to travel. The "cycling" will often consist of pushing the bike through the sand or rattling along the ripples, but the scenery and warmth of the Sudanese people can compensate for the physical and bureaucratic annoyances. Check carefully the availability of clean, potable water. Theft is not a problem; It is generally safe to leave bicycles unattended in towns and cities. Flies, prickly thorny trees and, in the far north, lack of shade, can be real annoyances.

To buy

Money

Sudanese Pound Exchange Rates

As of January 2020:

  • US $ 1 ≈ SDG45
  • € 1 ≈ SDG50
  • UK £ 1 ≈ SDG60

Exchange rates fluctuate. Current rates for these and other currencies are available on XE.com

Market in Sudan The country's currency is Sudanese pound (Arabic: جنية jeneh , ISO currency code: SDG). The pound is divided into 100 piastres (coins). The "G" in the currency code stands for "guinea".

The pound was introduced in January 2007 to replace the Sudanese dinar (Arabic: dinar دينار, SDD). The new pound is worth 100 old dinars.

Things are not that simple when it comes to quoting prices. Instead of new pounds (which are hardly used for trading) and dinars (more commonly used, especially when trading in English), most people still speak in terms of the ancient pound, although there are no more old banknotes in circulation. One dinar is worth 10 old pounds. Therefore, when a person asks for 10,000 pounds, they actually want 1,000 dinars from you. And just to add to the confusion, people generally eliminate the thousands when they are listed in pounds. So your taxi driver may ask you for 10 pounds, which actually means 10,000 old pounds, which is equal to 1,000 dinars, which should once again be referred to as just 10 pounds! To clear up any confusion, you can try saying "new pound" or جنية الجديد jeneh al-jedid .

Simple summary: 1 new pound = 100 dinars = 1000 old pounds (out of use for a long time)

Take only foreign cash to Sudan, preferably US dollars (often accepted in hotels), Pounds from the Bank of England and, to a lesser extent, Euros are also quite easy to exchange at banks in big cities. In Sudan they are not accepted traveler's checks, credit cards or credit cards ATMs of foreign banks, in part due to the US embargo.

There are many banks in Khartoum and throughout Sudan, but not all have foreign exchange services. There are several money changers in Khartoum, especially in Afra Mall. There are also several Western Union agents in Khartoum who will make payments for money transferred from abroad.

The currency is not fully convertible, and not it is a black market with rates slightly higher than official rates - Black market dealers quoted the pound at 50 to the dollar compared to an official rate of 47.50 in October 2018. The Sudanese pound is a closed currency, so be sure to change it back before leaving the country.

Credit cards

Due to the US embargo, credit cards cannot be used in Sudan . The only exception is Diners Club, which is accepted by the Khartoum Hilton. All transactions must be done in cash, so it is not safe as you will carry large sums of money with you. Transacting online while in Sudan can cause problems as some merchants (especially American ones) will collect your Sudanese IP address and refuse to do business with you. If you attempt to use an American Express card for any online transaction while in Sudan, you will likely summarily cancel the card.

Eat and drink

Sudanese cuisine

Sudanese cuisine has various influences, but none of them dominate regional culinary cultures. Among the influences are Egyptian, Ethiopian, Yemeni, and Turkish cuisines (dumplings, pastries, and spices), but there are also numerous dishes that are common to all Arab nations.

  • The Foul, made with fava beans, is a common dish. Many Sudanese eat it daily for breakfast and it can be considered the national dish.
  • Local Sudanese breads are Kissra, a bread made of durra or corn; Y Gurassa, a thick wheat flour bread similar to a pancake, but thicker. Sudanese also classify Clean, a porridge made from wheat, millet or corn, like bread.
  • A local dish of northern Sudan is Gurassa Bil Damaa, which is a thicker pancake-like unleavened wheat bread topped with beef or chicken stew.
  • Some dishes from eastern Sudan are Mukhbaza, which is made of grated wheat bread mixed with mashed bananas and honey; Selaat, which is lamb cooked on hot stones; Y Guru, which is a kind of local sausage cooked in a similar way to Selaat.
  • One of the popular dishes of western Sudan is Agashe, meat seasoned with ground peanuts and spices (mainly hot chili peppers) and cooked on the grill or fire.
  • Fresh fruits and vegetables are very common.

Restaurants and food shopping

There are many trendy restaurants / cafes like Mexican, Korean, Italian, Turkish, Pakistani, Indian and Chinese in Khartoum and Jarto North.

One of the main attractions is Sug al Naga (the camel market) north of Omdurman, where you can select the meat of your choice and then give it to one of the women to cook it for you the way you prefer.

Islam is the official religion of the country and the alcohol is prohibited since Sharia was imposed in the 1980s. Sudanese people often drink tea, usually sweet and black. Sudan also has some refreshing drinks like karkade (hibiscus) that can be served hot or cold, aradeeb (tamarind), and gongleiz (made from the baobab fruit). The local energy drink is a carbohydrate-laden drink known as madeeda. There are several types of madeedas, made with dates, dukhun (millet), or other ingredients mixed with fresh milk and usually heavily sweetened with sugar, although low-sugar versions may be available upon request. Sudanese coffee is available in most souks and is similar to Turkish-style coffee; thick and strong, sometimes flavored with cardamom or ginger with a powerful and utterly delicious touch. However, it should not be taken before bed if you want a good night's sleep.

However, while alcohol is strictly illegal in the Muslim north, locally brewed alcohol is widely available in various forms and in varying degrees of potency. A local beer (merissa) made from sorghum or millet is cloudy, sour and thick and is likely to be made from raw water and will almost certainly lead to the 'revenge of the Mahdi' (the Sudanese version of 'Delhi belly '). Aragi is a pure spirit distilled from sorghum or in its purest form, dates. It is potent and needs to be treated with respect, and be aware that it is sometimes contaminated with methanol or embalming fluid to add flavor and potency! However, keep in mind that all of these infusions are not only potentially dangerous to your health, but also illegal, and being caught in possession can result in the full implementation of the punishments of Islamic law.

The general advice is not to drink tap water; In most rural areas, you won't be able to, as there are no taps. Where there are no boreholes (which often produce water that is good to drink), the water is often taken directly from the Nile.

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