The Via de la Plata leads from Seville in Andalusia over Merida in Extremadura Las Médulas in Castile-León and on to Gijon in Asturias. The historical trade route is also a pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela and is one of the Way of St. James.
background
In 139 BC, the consul Servillius Caepius began building the road. It initially connected the two provincial capitals Emerita (Mérida) and Asturica (Astorga) with each other. Emperor Augustus and later Emperor Tiberius continued construction. The two Spanish emperors Trajan and Hadrian completed the work. There were overnight accommodations along the way. Bridges spanned rivers. Milestones indicated distances. Goods were transported and troops moved on the streets. Travelers also used the Via de la Plata. The road was later extended south to Seville and north to Gijon. The Romans exploited the Las Médulas gold mines near Ponferrada and transported the precious metal via the Via de la Plata. The Arabs also use the road. The historical trade route is also a pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela and is one of the Way of St. The German translation of Via de la Plata is Silberstrasse. But gold was not transported on the streets, but rather gold. The Spanish name is derived from the Arabic Bal'latta off what is called paved public road. The Via de la Plata is 900 km long. The N-630 and long stretches of the A-66 motorway follow the historical tracks.
preparation
If you want to walk the pilgrimage route, you have to make all kinds of preparations. Information on this can be found on the Internet and in the literature listed below.
Preparations by car are generally limited to reserving hotel rooms during the main holiday season in July and August or on Easter and Christmas holidays. During the rest of the time, reservations are not absolutely necessary, but advisable. It is advisable to use reservation services on the Internet as they will save you money. Here are three services:
- Spanish reservation service: http://www.hotelius.com
- Rates to go, also in German: http://www.ratestogo.es
- HRS German reservation service with offers in Spain: http://www.hrs.de
Directions
One can follow the road which is also the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela is, hike or drive off with a motorized vehicle. The national road 630 and increasingly the Autobahn 66 follows the historical traces. The modern street is called Ruta de la Plata. Of Seville in the south or Gijon in the North. In north-south direction you drive from the coast up to the Castilian plateau and continue on the A-6 to Astorga and Benavente and then on the N-630 to Zamora to Salamanca. There are many beautiful things to see on this first stage. The second stage follows the N-630 or A-66 via Plasencia to Cáceres. The third stage leads on the A-66 to Mérida, Zafra, Italica to the finish in Seville.
Overview
This historical path offers a lot of interesting sights. It will take five to six days by car to see the most important castles, churches, palaces, bridges and squares. One could spend a day in Salamanca alone. Here the ancient Roman road from north to south is described.
From Gijon to Las Médulas
- Gijon, the port city on the Cantabrian Sea has late Roman city walls, the Campa Torres archaeological park and Romanesque churches. From Gijon the Via de la Plata leads via Ribera de Arriba, Morcin, Mieres, Aller and Lena to León. In Mieres you can admire a palace of the Marques de Composagrado from the 17th century and the market hall from 1907, as well as several churches and palaces. In Lena there is a pre-Romanesque church from the year 850. The church of Santa Cristina de Lena is a World Heritage Site. It was built in the Ramiro style and its main feature (iconostasis) is a triple arcade supported by marble columns that separated the presbytery from the area of the faithful. In the former Cobertoria train station in Lena there is an exhibition on pre-Romanesque art in Asturias. The visitor receives an introduction to the art-historical context. It is around 140 km from Gijón to León.
- León (Spain) lies at an altitude of 823 m on the Rio Bernesga.
The Roman military camp Legio VII Gemina Pia Felix is said to have been located here in AD 70. The Moor Amansur conquered the place and devastated it. In 1002 the Christian armies defeated the Moors at the Battle of Calatañazor and saved Santiago de Compostela from a Moorish conquest. Around the year 1000 León became the capital of the Asturian kingdom. It later became the capital of the Kingdom of León. In the middle of the 13th century the kingdoms of Castile and León were united and the city lost its influence. Today León is the provincial capital and economic center in the north of Spain. León has a lot to offer. The 13th century Cathedral de Santa Maria de Regla is well worth seeing. With two towers and a large rose window above the three-part portal. The interior of the three-aisled church is illuminated by very beautiful glass windows. The cloister from the 13th-14th centuries Century is worth seeing. Not far from the cathedral is the Romanesque collegiate church of San Isidoro from the 11th century. In the Palacio San Marco there is today a parador with a cloister and almost life-size sculptures. If you want to visit the gold mines of Las Médulas, you have to drive from León via Astroga to Ponferrada. The route measures around 95 km.
- Ponferrada is a modern city with 60,000 inhabitants. Many historic buildings are worth seeing on the other side of the Rio Sil in the old town. Here is the Templar Castle from the 12th century, which is very well preserved. There are nice places with restaurants where you can enjoy the tasty Bierzo cuisine. The Plaza Virgin de Encina was named in honor of the patroness of the Bierzo region. The Basilica de la Encina dates from the 16th century and dominates the square. The nearby Plaza Mayor has a clock tower (Torre del Reloj). The Radio Museum is something unusual.
- To Las Médulas can be reached from Ponferrada on the N-536 via Villalibre de Jurisdiccion and Carucedo. In Orellan there is a lookout point over the historic Las Médulas gold mining area.
View of the former mine area
It is around 25 km from Ponferrada to Orellan. In Las Médulas you can see red. Strangely shaped red mountain peaks against a blue sky are fascinating. One could believe in a natural phenomenon, but the phenomenon was made by human hands 2,000 years ago. It was not erosion but miners and water that shaped the landscape. The Romans called their mining technique Ruina Montium. Asturian workers dug shafts and tunnels into which water was channeled. The mountains of the Terraconensis province were drained and freed from gold using water power. In the 1st and 2nd centuries the Romans washed out 200 million cubic meters of the red rock in order to extract gold. From the platform in Orellan you have a good overview of the mine area with the eroded red rock peaks, because only these can be seen. The deeper parts of the terrain have long been overgrown with green. Explanations are given on boards. There are some hiking trails that lead directly into the site. The Roman historian Pliny described the gold mining in Las Médulas. The gold went on a long journey south on the Via de la Plata. The Roman historian Pliny described gold mining Las Médulas. The mines of Las Médulas were designated by UNESCO in 1977 World Heritage appointed.
- On the way you can see the picturesque mountain farming village of Tallan. The old wooden houses have large balconies. The people live upstairs. Animals and supplies below. It's about 60 km back to Astorga.
From Las Médulas via Ponferrada, Astorga and Zamora
From Las Médulas back to Ponferrada and then via the A-66, known as the Ruta de la Plata, to Astorga (70 km).
- Astorga is the largest place in the Maragateria countryside. This is where the Way of St. James and the Via de la Plata cross. Churches, monasteries and hospitals are still well preserved in the old town. The famous architect Antonio Gaudi has the neo-Gothic Episcopal Palace built. The late Gothic Cathedral of Santa Maria de Astorga was built in place of a Romanesque church from the 8th century. It also has Baroque and Plateresque elements in the main portal and the two towers. The main portal with its flowers and angels is very worth seeing. The main altar is octagonal and adapted to that of the apse. The pulpit is made of walnut. The altar and pulpit were designed by Gaspar Becerra. There are many beautiful sculptures in the church. The church is open from October 1st to June 30th, Monday to Sunday from 9:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. and from 3:30 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. In the summer from July 1st to September 30th from 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. and from 5:00 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. Entry price € 4. The Maragateria cuisine is good. One should try the cocido. In Astorga, the meat is served first, then the legumes and vegetables and finally the soup (restaurants: Casa Maragata, La Peseta, Serrano). Confectionery has always been made in Astorga. The city is known for chocolate, the puff pastry Hojaldres and the clarified butter pastry Mantecados. In the Museo de Chocolate you can learn interesting facts about history and try chocolates. Hojaldres and mantecados are sold in bakeries and shops.
On the A-66 55 km to Benavente and then 70 km on the N-630 to Zamora.
- Benavente (Spain) was settled under King Ferdinand II. In 1167 the place received foral rights (Derecho foral = civil law). The Parador Fernando II in the castle Torra del Carracol from the 16th century is the most representative building in the city. The church too Santa Maria de Azogue is worth seeing.
- Zamora lies on the banks of the Duero. The city has important Romanesque buildings. The city walls from 893, palaces and churches suggest that Zamora was of great importance in the Middle Ages. The city was destroyed when the Moors conquered it in 981, but was rebuilt by Ferdinand I in the 11th century. The Catedral de Zamora is probably the most important Romanesque building in Spain. It was built from 1151 to 1174. Gothic elements were added later. The cathedral has six naves. The dome with 16 double arches supports the shed dome. This unusual Byzantine style dome is the symbol of the city. The bell tower has a square plan. The cathedral holds many art treasures, including the choir stalls by Cristo de las Injurias, the portrait of Nuestra Senora de la Majestad (Mother of God). The cathedral is open from October 1st to January 6th from Tuesday to Saturday from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM and from 4:30 PM to 6:00 PM and from March 2nd to September 30th Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 AM - 1:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. and from January 6th to March 2nd, Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and from 4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. It is always closed on Mondays. Entrance fee 3 €. The two churches Iglesia de San Ildefonso and Iglesia de la Magdalena are also worth seeing. The Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Zamora is particularly noteworthy because of the Gregorian chants and chorales. It is one of the most magnificent and emotional events. In it piety, splendor of colors, art and music are impressively united. The beautiful Palacio de Comte de Aliste from the 15th century with a view of the Duero now houses the Parador de Zamora. Two more palaces, Casa de los Momos and Casa del Cordón are worth seeing because of their richly decorated facades. The Stone bridge over the Duero dates from the 12th century.
From Zamora to Salamanca
From Zamora you drive 62 km on the N-630 to Salamanca.
- Salamanca, the old university town is a treasure trove of Plateresque and Renaissance architecture. The settlement on the Rio Tormes was founded in 217 BC. Conquered by Hannibal. The Romans ruled Salamantica from 133 BC. BC to 712 AD After that, the Moors ruled until 1085. During the reconquest by Alfonso VI. many buildings were destroyed in León. The city was uninhabitable. It was not until 1102 that Raimundo de Borgona began repopulating. In 1218 the university founded. At that time it was one of the most important educational institutions in Europe. Today it has 40,000 students. The main portal of the university is adorned with many sculptures in the Plateresque style.
The Catedral Vieja and Catedral Nueva (Double cathedral) from the 12th and 16th centuries is not far from the university. Opposite is the Episcopal Palace, where General Franco temporarily had his headquarters during the Civil War. The Plaza Mayor is the largest and most beautiful square in Spain. You should linger in one of the cafés and watch the goings-on in the square with a cafe solo or cafe con leche. She is also famous Casa de la Conchas in the Plateresque style with over 300 shells made of golden yellow sandstone. The roman bridge There is still a footbridge over the Rio Tormes today. The 16th century was the heyday of Salamanca. Iglesia and Convento San Esteban were being built. On July 22, 1812 Wellingon defeated the French at Salamanca with a British-Portuguese army. The golden yellow sandstone, which is related in Salamanca, has a remarkable property. It doesn't turn black over time. That's why the buildings still look very nice even without renovation. In 1988 Salamanca became the UNESCO world cultural heritage explained. In 2002 Salamanca was European Capital of Culture together with Bruges (Belgium).
From Salamanca via Béjar and Plasencia to Cáceres
From Salamanca you drive 72 km on the N-630 to Béjar and then 57 km to Plasencia.
- Béjar is a small town in the province of Salamanca with a remarkable old town and the Renaissance settlement El Bosque from the 16th century. Its garden has been declared a Spanish cultural asset. The Moorish city walls were built in the 11th century and the ducal palace in the 16th century. The bullring is considered to be the oldest in Spain.
We are now leaving the autonomous region of Castilia-León and reaching
- Plasencia in the province of Cáceres in the autonomous region of Extremadura on the banks of the Rio Jerte. The Romans and then the Moors ruled the city. Alfonso VIII recaptured it in the 12th century and settled it again. In 1208 the oldest Spanish university was founded. Later the city lost its importance. In the 15th century aristocrats moved to Plasencia and built palaces, manors and churches. Together they form a monument complex that is well worth seeing. The Catedral de Plasencia shouldn't be missed. It consists of two buildings, the old and new cathedral. The old one was started in the 13th century and is in the Romanesque-Gothic transition style. Construction of the new cathedral began in the 15th century. It is Gothic with high vaults. The cathedral museum is interesting.
- From Plasencia you can take a trip to the La Vera Valley to the Yuste Monastery. Especially in spring, when the cherries are in bloom, it is worth taking a detour on the EX-203. Emperor Karl V spent his twilight years in the Yuste Monastery. Charles V died in Yuste on Sept. 21, 1558. In his palace, which is attached to the monastery, you can visit his audience room, his bedroom and the church. From the bed the emperor had a view through the open door of the high altar. This represents his family who worships God. Karl lived in his small palace, but had contact with the monks in the monastery. He had once brought over 150 advisors and servants with him. From the parking lot of the monastery there is a narrow but good road to Garganta de Olla, a small old town with buildings from the 16th and 17th centuries. The church of San Lorenzo is from the 16th century. The Plaza Mayor is also worth seeing. The mighty balconies are interesting. From Plasencia to Cáceres it is 71 km on the A-66.
- The provincial capital Cáceres or its old town became in 1986 already
UNESCO world cultural heritage appointed. The city experienced after the reconquest by Alfonso IX. of León in 1227 an upswing. As a free trading town, it attracted merchants and then also nobles. They built the strict fortified palaces. In 1476 Isabella of Castile had many defensive towers demolished because the nobles were too powerful for her. The present Renaissance town was built in the 15th and 16th centuries. After that, an economic decline set in. Extremadura became the poor house of Spain. The old town impresses with the overall picture. The strict buildings made of stone blocks appear a little gloomy. The Iglesia de Santa Maria opposite the bishop's palace contains a reredos carved from cedar wood and the Cristo negro (black crucifix). The city palace Casa de los Golfines de Abajo has a beautiful ornate facade from the 16th century. This is where the influential Golfines family once lived. A detailed tour is recommended.
From Cáceres via Mérida to Zafra
From Cáceres, follow the A-66 for 68 km to Mérida and then 55 km to Zafra.
- Mérida (Spain) became 25th BC Founded by the Roman emperor Augustus as Augusta Emerita. It was one of the largest cities in Spain at the time. Today no more people live in the city than 2,000 years ago, namely around 20,000. Under Moorish rule, Mérida was less important. The city shines with a well-preserved roman theater, in which a theater festival is organized in summer. The one next to it amphitheater is less well preserved. The one close by is particularly worth visiting Museo Nacional de Arte Romano with many sculptures, mosaics, coins and everyday objects. The Diana temple and the Arch of Trajan are worth seeing. This is especially true for them roman bridge over the Rio Guadiana. It is 730 m long. The Iglesia de Santa Eulalia from the 3rd century is supposed to commemorate the city patroness Eulalia, who was martyred here. At the Alcazaba Visigoths, Romans and Moors built (castle). Today, when a building owner has a building pit excavated, he often comes across historical "surprises".
Mérida belongs to the UNESCO world cultural heritage. - Monasteriao de Tentudía You can get to the monastery via the Monesterio (Calera de León) exit of the A-66, which has been declared a historically valuable national monument. It was built in the second half of the 13th century. The monastery was an important school of ancient languages. The cloister is mudejar. The main altar is in the Mudejar and Renaissance styles. The Virgin of Tentudía is the main character.
- The town Zafra had its heyday in the 15th and 16th centuries. The two squares are worth seeing, Plaza Grande and Plaza Chica, The Iglesia de la Candelaria and Convento de Santa Clara, as well as the Alcazar de los Duques de Feria, in which there is a Parador today. Zafra was a trading town. Today, industry has also settled. In the Alcázar, today's Parador, there is a very beautiful inner courtyard, where you can dine in the evening in the summer.
From Zafra via Itálica to Seville
Expanded on the A-66, you drive south to Andalusia. It is about 130 km from Zafra to Itálica near Seville.
- Italica is near the village of Santiponce. The city was founded in 206 BC. Built by Scipio the Elder for Roman veterans. Itálica was an important city in Roman times. It was forgotten in the Middle Ages. Today only a small part has been excavated. The amphitheater held 25,000 spectators. In Roman times there were already paved roads and an underground sewer system. Beautiful mosaics emerged that can be admired today.
 Mosaic from Itálica |  Real Alcazar in Seville |  Cathedral in Seville |
- Seville is the capital of the autonomous region of Andalusia and the destination of gold shipments from Las Médulas. Here the valuable cargo was shipped and brought to Rome. At that time, the Rio Guadalquivir was still navigable for larger ships. Later it silted up. Seville is a very worth seeing city with the big cathedral, the Giralda, the Archivo de Indias, the Real Alcázar, many beautiful squares and museums. You shouldn't miss them Seville Cathedral from the 14th century Giralda (Bell tower) and the Patio de Naranjas (Orangenhof) still testify today that the cathedral stands on the walls of a mosque from the 12th century. It is the third largest church in the world and contains many art treasures. You can go up to the Giralda and enjoy the all-round view of the city. The Real Alcázar, which Pedro I had built in the middle of the palace of the Almohad rulers, is also worth a visit. Seville belongs to the UNESCO world cultural heritage.
literature
- : Way of St. James - Via de la Plata and Mozarabic Way of St. James - The journey is the destination (paperback). Stone (Conrad), 2007 (3rd edition), ISBN 3866861168 ; 287 pages (German).
- : Alone as a woman on Via de la Plata; Vol.Vol.182. Stone (Conrad), 2005, Outdoor manual, ISBN 3893925821 ; 128 pages (German). A story of pilgrims on foot that lives from encounters. Wanderlust reading
- : Via de la Plata-The Camino de Santiago from Seville to Santiago de Compostela. Bergverlag Rother, 2006, Rother hiking guide, ISBN 3763343334 ; 237 pages (German).
