Vardsia - Wardsia

Vardsia (Georgian: ვარძია, engl. Transcription Vardzia) is a cave city in the Aspindsa Raion in the administrative region (Mchare) Samtskhe Javakheti. The cave complex in the Mtkvari Valley is now partly a museum, partly used again as a monastery and is one of the main attractions in Georgia. In the vicinity there are other extensive cave systems such as Wanis Kwabebi (Wani caves) or Lebisi as well as the castle ruins of Chertwissi.

background

Vardsia was built in the 12th century on the rocky slope of Mount Erusheti on the left bank of Mtkvari; the builder was the Georgian King Giorgi III. Wardsia was cut into a rock face that rose up from the valley around 500 meters. The builders used projections and recesses to create deep caves, which are connected by tunnels, stairs, terraces and galleries. The city served as a border fortress against Turks and Persians, the daughter Giorgi III, Queen Tamar, who lived in the city with her retinue from 1193 to 1195 during a military conflict with the Seljuk Turks, founded a monastery in Vardsia.

Originally 3,000 apartments were built for the residents on up to seven floors, which offered space for 50,000 people. Each apartment consisted of three rooms. There was a treasury, a church, a library, bakeries, stables and baths as well as a water supply network with ceramic pipes. After an earthquake, 750 rooms on an area of ​​about 900 square meters are still preserved today.

getting there

Wardsia is off the main road ს 11 (Akhaltsikhe-Armenia), at Chertwissi you drive the well-developed regional road შ 58 for approx. 25 km to the south and reach the cave city directly. Alternatively, from Akhalkalaki Also drive on a poorly developed gravel road, from the village of Watschiani at შ 21 (Achalkalaki-Karzachi) you drive west and after approx. 20 km you reach the cliffs of Apnia on the opposite side of the cave city. The gravel road overcomes these cliffs in numerous serpentines into the valley of Mtkvari. An off-road vehicle is recommended, but not essential.

There are only sparse public connections, but there are individual marshrutkas from Akhaltsikhe and Akhalkalaki, or you can hitchhike from Chertwissi. Taxis can also be chartered from Akhaltsikhe or Akhalkalaki.

The region around Wardsia has a well-marked network of hiking trails, which means that Wardsia can also be reached on foot from Chertwissi.

Numerous travel companies offer Wardsia as a two-day or even day tour from Tbilisi (from around 120 Lari p.p.).

mobility

The modern village and the cave city of Vardzia are within walking distance of each other, and Wanis Kwabebi are just a short walk away. An off-road vehicle is required for excursions off the main road.

Tourist Attractions

• Cave city Vardsia – 41.378443.2833Markers in Vardsia1 Type is color designation
• Cave city Wanis Kwabebi – 41.381943.3073Markers in Vardsia2 Type is color designation
• Castle ruins Chertwissi – 41.479443.2863Markers in Vardsia3 Type is color designation
• Castle ruins Tmogwi – 41.396243.3165Markers in Vardsia4 Type is color designation
• Caves and tunnels of Lepisi – 41.373443.1935Markers in Vardsia5 Type is color designation

Vardsia

The entrance to the cave city is at the end of the developed regional road, where the car park is also located. There is also a ticket counter and some small souvenir shops. Admission: 5 lari; Opening times: Tue-Sun 10 am-5pm, closed on Mondays. Open from May to November until 7 p.m.

After a short climb you enter the cave complex, you can visit some cave dwellings and other facilities. The main attraction of the large complex is the monastery church of the Assumption of Mary with a magnificent column portal, a large hall in the form of a barrel vault, apse and narthex. It is decorated with colored frescoes, including depictions of the builder, King Giorgi III. and Queen Tamara.

You should allow at least 2 hours for the tour.

Wanis Kwabebi

The Wani Caves (Georgian: ვანის ყვაბები, historically also Wahani caves, is another cave settlement about 3 km northeast of Vardsia at an altitude of 1386 m.

The complex contains more than 200 caves on 16 different levels, which are connected to each other with tunnels. Furthermore, the remains of several churches can be found in the complex, including the St. Georgis Church from the 11th century. The inner walls are almost completely covered with frescoes and inscriptions from the 15th and 16th centuries. Some inscriptions quote verses from Shota Rustaveli's "The Warrior in Panther's Skin".

The Wani Caves are on the right side of the Mktwari and are accessed about 3 km outside of Vardsia via a steep gravel path. If you don't have an off-road vehicle, you can walk the 2 km. You can go to the foot of the rock face, but entry into the cave complex is not permitted (as of 2011). An employee of the Ministry of Culture monitors the site. But if you ask nicely, he will show you around - don't forget a small tip afterwards.

Attention: Here the footpaths are not secured, you should be sure-footed and not be afraid of heights!

The terraced meadows below the Wani caves are a popular place for wild camping.

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Chertwissi

The castle ruins Chertwissi (Georgian: ხერთვისის ციხე, Chertwisis Ziche, English: Khertvisi Fortress) is one of the oldest fortifications in Georgia. A fortress was first built on the site in the 2nd century BC. erected, the current walls were built in 1354. The ruin complex contains a church (built in 985). In the 10th and 11th centuries, Chertwissi was a center of the historical Mes'cheti region. Chertwissi was destroyed by the Mongols in the 13th century and lost its power in the 15th century.

The castle ruins Chertwissi are located in the village of the same name (Georgian: ხერთვისი, Chertwisi, engl. Khertvisi) on a rocky hill at the mouth of the Paravani in the Mtkvari. At this point, the regional road შ 58 to Vardsia branches off from the main road ს 11.

Tmogwi

The castle ruins Tmogwi (Georgian: თმოგვი, engl. Tmogvi; (Armenian: Թմկաբերդ) is located a few kilometers north of Vardsia above the left bank of Mtkvari and was first mentioned in the 9th century. The fortress controlled the trade route between the Armenian plateau and the Iverian lowlands, which ran through the Mtkvari Gorge. In 1088 the fortress was destroyed in an earthquake. The name "Tmogwi" comes from the Armenian word "mog" (մոգ) for "pagan priest".

The fortress extends over three hills and is surrounded by a 150 m long and 3 m thick wall that complements the natural cliffs as a fortification. The complex has numerous defense towers and a secret passage to the river to ensure the water supply in the event of a siege. In the better preserved western part of the complex there is a basalt stone building that may have been a church.

How to get there: About 10 km south of Chertwissi and about 4 km north of the modern village of Tmogwi, a bad road crosses the Mtkvari, which you follow for another 10 km to the end - SUV recommended. From the end of the street there is another 500 m long walk. Outside, to the west of the complex, are the ruins of St. Ephrem's Church with frescoes from the 13th century.

http://heritagesites.ge/?lang=eng&page=314

Lepisi

Lepisi (Georgian: ლეპისი, also: Lebisi) is located south of Vardsia further towards the Turkish border. On a bad gravel road you drive about four kilometers to the village of Agara on a high plateau and then another three kilometers to Lebisi. Because of the road conditions and the photo stops, you should plan around two hours for the journey. In bad weather this path is impassable.

It was typical for the region to create underground shelters and entire apartments (so-called darani) and to connect them with a complex tunnel system. These underground places served as protection and defense spaces. One of the largest of these systems is located in Lebisi, but only a few meters of it are accessible, the rest is walled up. Access to the tunnel system is from an inconspicuous house, locals are happy to help with the search.

activities

• The area around Vardsia is covered with signposted hiking trails.

shop

There are the usual mini markets in the villages, but there are also small souvenir shops at the parking lot in the cave town of Vardsia.

kitchen

There are a few cafes and restaurants at the parking lot near the cave town of Vardsia.

accommodation

• In the modern village of Wardsia there are now several guest houses and smaller hotels in various quality and price ranges.
• The area below Wanis Kwabebi and the banks of Mtkvari south of Vardsia are ideal for wild camping.
• There is a larger selection of accommodation in Akhaltsikhe (approx. 60 km)

security

Danger of falling on the cliffs and rocks, not all footpaths are secured with railings.

health

• Because the Wardsia cave complex is exposed to the south, it is very hot in midsummer and shade is rare. Don't forget your sun protection! There are no stalls in the museum complex, but there is a cistern with drinking water in one of the caves.

Practical advice

• There is no tourist office in Vardzia, but some monks and local residents offer their services as tour guides.
• The attractions in the area are Not barrier-free accessible.

trips

• Wardsia is a worthwhile excursion Akhaltsikhe as well as a worthwhile stopover when transit to and from Armenia.
• Where to go next Aspindsa, Akhalkalaki, Ninozminda, Akhaltsikhe, Borjomi, Abastumani, Gyumri, Kars
• Other cave cities and monasteries in Georgia: Uplistsikhe, Dawit Gareja

literature

National Agency of Heritage Sites: Vardzia Historical Architectural Museum-Reserve (2011, 68 pp., As PDF

Web links

National Agency of Heritage Sites: Vardzia [2]