Antarctica - Antártida

Satellite map of Antarctica.

The Antarctica or AntarcticaConsidered "the last challenge", it is probably the most remote place on the planet and one of the strangest but most fascinating tourist destinations in the world. This continent, located south of latitude 60 ° S and completely surrounding the South PoleIt is a land of extremes: it is the driest and coldest continent on Earth, as well as having the highest average altitude.

Almost without human intervention, the frozen Antarctic lands provide scenarios that stop the breath of the few scientists and tourists who get to know it. No more than a thousand people live in Antarctica in research bases, but the continent enjoys large colonies of animals that populate its places. Reaching Antarctica is an adventure in itself, crossing the fierce waters that separate it from the rest of humanity and that explain its existence as a virgin continent.

Frozen Lake Fryxell
Transantarctic Mountains
Underwater view of McMurdo Bay

Regions

Map of Antarctica and its tourist regions:      West Antarctica     Antarctic Peninsula     East Antarctica     South Pole
West Antarctica
Boat next to the Ross Ice ShelfIn the western zone there are dissimilar points: a mountainous sector with the main peaks of the continent, including the mount vinson, and a series of ice platforms that cover the sea, highlighting the so-called Ross Sea, where various cruise ships dock from Australia Y New Zealand.
East Antarctica
Antarctic plainThe eastern part of Antarctica is the most difficult to access as it is a large, ice-covered desert plain. Here the lowest temperature in history was recorded in the Vostok station and it is also South Pole of Inaccessibility.
Antarctic Peninsula
Argentine base EsperanzaThe main entry point to the continent due to its proximity to South America, is an extension of the Andes mountains. Most of the scientific bases and some civilian towns are located here, as it is the sector with the best climate in the region.
South Pole
The South Pole at Amundsen-Scott StationLocated in the middle of the continent, next to it are several scientific facilities. The most important symbol is the mast that marks the exact geographical point where the axis of rotation of the earth crosses.

Understand

Context

Map of 1570 including the idea of ​​the Terra Australis where Antarctica is.

For centuries, the idea of ​​a Terra Australis fascinated geographers and explorers. In 1773, the explorer James cook He was the first to cross the Antarctic Polar Circle, although he did not manage to reach Antarctica as a result of the ice blocks that interrupted the passage of his ships. As early as 1820, it would be spotted by three separate explorers: Fabian Gottlieb von Bellingshausen, Edward bransfield Y Nathaniel Palmer. In 1840, the French Jules Dumont d'Urville made the first verified landing on the continent, kicking off a expedition series destined to discover these new lands. The race to reach the South Pole would be reached by the norwegian Roald amundsen on December 14, 1911; a month later, the tragic expedition of Robert F. Scott would arrive at that same place.

At the end of the 19th century, various whalers and seamen began to exploit the Antarctic coasts for commercial purposes, which raised the interest of various countries to claim Antarctic sovereignty: Argentina, Australia, chili, France, Norway, New Zealand and the United Kingdom, plus a short claim german during the Nazi period. Already in the middle of the 20th century, these countries, as well as other countries of great interest in Antarctic research (especially, United States and the ex Soviet Union) signed the Antarctic Treaty, which establishes a conservation regime over all of Antarctica, suspending territorial claims.

Territorial claims and population

Map of Antarctica with its main bases and territorial claims.

As a consequence of the signing of the treaty, there is a virtual "freeze" of Antarctic litigation due to the prohibition of military activities not related to scientific research. Some of these claims overlap, leading to some minor diplomatic conflicts. While the territories of Australia, France, Norway, New Zealand and the United Kingdom have a vision of their claims as external agencies, to Argentina Y chili their claims are sovereign territories and members of the country; This explains why both countries reinforce their civil and military presence in the area.

Most Antarctic Treaty member countries maintain scientific research stations in Antarctica, totaling more than 40 in operation. Some of them operate throughout the year, while others only in summer. Most of these are concentrated in the northern half of the Antarctic Peninsula, due to its more favorable climate. The oldest in continuous operation is the Argentine station Orkney (since 1904). The McMurdo Base of the United States (located south of New Zealand), had until a few years ago a micro atomic power station, it is the largest of all. The american station Amundsen-Scott is located almost at the geographic South Pole, while the Russian Vostok and the French-Italian Concord they are the closest to the south geomagnetic pole.

On some occasions, these bases have also served as civil centers, particularly the Hope Base Argentina and Villa Las Estrellas, Chilean. Some families live there, usually soldiers and scientists assigned to the area, so you can find a bank, schools or post office. The only "Antarctic" were born in these bases: 8 in Esperanza and 3 in Villa Las Estrellas. It is estimated that about 1,000 people stay every winter on the continent, rising to more than 3,000 during the summer: the majority are Americans, followed by Argentines and Chileans.

Geography

Discovered parts of ice in the vicinity of the Argentine scientific station Spring Base.

Antarctica is the fourth largest continent, after Asia, America Y Africa, with 14,000,000km². Its shape is approximately circular and it is located almost completely to the south of the Antarctic polar circle. Its northern tip on the Antarctic Peninsula is only 1000km of South America, while the distances from the closest coasts to Africa are 3,800 km, Tasmania 2530 km and New Zealand 2200 km.

It is usually divided into West Antarctica o Smaller, smaller, and East Antarctica o Mayor, the rest of the continent. Both areas are covered by a dense layer of ice that is presumed to have eroded the continent in such a way that the land is below sea level. Between the two areas are the so-called Transantarctic Mountains and in the western zone there are other mountainous areas such as the Ellsworth Mountains (Where is he mount vinson, the highest on the continent) and the Antartandes, a southern continuation of the Andes and that allows the formation of the Antarctic Peninsula (called Tierra de San Martín or Tierra de O'Higgins by Argentines and Chileans, respectively). In the eastern zone there is a great plain in altitude (almost totally over 2000 meters above sea level) known as Polar Plateau, and where the South Pole and the Pole of Inaccessibility are located.

Although there are no rivers and only some streams are visible during the summer in the Peninsula, various frozen channels have been discovered as gigantic glaciers (the largest on Earth), which run almost radially from the center of the continent towards the coasts where these glaciers or form ice shelves and icebergs. Under the cover of "eternal ice" have been found several subglacial lakes such as Vostok.

Weather

The Antarctic climate is probably the most extreme in the world, which largely explains the reason for the natural absence of human life. Almost the entire surface is covered by the polar climate, where the average temperature of the warmest month does not exceed 0 ° C. Only in coastal areas of the Antarctic Peninsula and subantarctic islands can temperatures a little above 0 ° C be found. The average temperature in this region is -17 ° C and the lowest was recorded in the Russian Antarctic station of Vostok, on July 21, 1983, when the thermometer read -89.3 ° C, the lowest temperature recorded on the Earth's surface. Solar radiation is very low and much of it is reflected by the ice that covers the earth.

Approximately 90% of its territory is a cold snowy desert, with little presence of life and a great dryness of the air, which even exceeds that of hot deserts. This is due to the very low temperatures that immediately solidify the water in the atmosphere. The winds are very strong, reaching over 200 km / h and blizzards and storms are common. The strongest winds on the earth's surface have also been recorded in Antarctica: 327 km / h, in July 1972, at the French scientific station Dumont d'Urville.

Other special phenomena of Antarctica are the mirages product of the reflection of the ice, the southern auroras and the antelias (halos on the star products of atmospheric ice crystals). The duration of the day and the night are also particular: during the austral summer (January), the days in Antarctica have light almost 24 hours a day, and at midnight the Sun "goes down" to the horizon line and then returns to " go up "in apparent sinusoidal motion. On the contrary, during the long winter the days remain in a prolonged twilight. At the geographic south pole, the day lasts 6 months and the night the other 6 months.

To get

By plane

A US Army plane landing on the Shackleton Glacier.

The easiest and fastest way to get there, but it doesn't really make it either easy or expedited. In order to land in Antarctica, it is necessary to have a specialized aircraft and a pilot trained in landings on ice, snow and gravel: there are no airports on the continent and only 28 runways and 37 heliports are maintained. Due to the complexity of the climate and infrastructure, flights are only allowed during the summer and during the day. In no case believe that this is a pleasure trip: added to the flight difficulties, you will most likely have to unload your own luggage and support the staff as much as possible.

The main clues are those of the Teniente Rodolfo Marsh Aerodrome, operated by Chile and that serves the vast majority of the bases on King George Island, the US Williams Field serving McMurdo Station, and the private Union Glacier Blue-Ice Runway operated by Adventure Network International.

Airways DAP offers commercial flights to Teniente Marsh from Punta Arenas, probably the best option for traveling. The flights last 3 and a half hours and generally take a few turns before landing so that passengers can enjoy the wonderful views over the Antarctic ice. DAP offers tours for the day and one with an overnight stay at the Collins Glacier. There are also some flights that depart from Sydney Y Melbourne flying over Antarctica at 3,000 meters, observing the frozen sea, the Transantarctic mountains and the magnetic South Pole. It is important to take into account that the costs are high, rising between the $ 1000 and the $ 7000 according to the route.

Boat

The M / V Polar Star, one of the cruise ships that travels to Antarctica.

This is the most traditional option to visit the islands and the one that will allow you to better enjoy the frozen continent. Cruises usually depart from Ushuaia or Punta Arenas to the Antarctic Peninsula and its main islands. To do this, you must cross the Drake Pass, famous for its violent waters and which buried thousands of sailors in history. No matter the size of your boat, the waves will be felt and you will suffer from dizziness and vomiting. In many cases, these cruises are between 1 and 2 weeks in Antarctica and some do it as part of a tour that includes the Falkland Islands and the South Georgia Islands. There are also some cruises that sail from Hobart in Australia and Bluff in New Zealand.

Smaller boats bring tourists to more remote places of great interest to appreciate the local fauna. Keep in mind, however, that by regulations of the Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO), no more than 100 people can get off at the same time, which makes the routes short and is most of the time on board. The weather can also make expeditions difficult, so be prepared to be disappointed if you are unable to visit some destinations.

An alternative is to participate in the expedition aboard a sailboat. There are many IAATO member companies that offer these services, with trips that can last from three to six weeks. Tourists become part of the crew so they must participate in various activities (although prior experience is not necessary). These trips are more specialized and focused on some activity such as mountaineering, scientific research or to record a documentary. Although these yachts and sailboats are much less comfortable than a cruise ship, they allow for a closer experience and provide greater flexibility.

Travel

A zodiac boat in Paradise Harbor.

Difficulties on the ground have given rise to a multiplicity of means of transport that can overcome them: ponies, dogsleds, skis, tractors, all-terrain vehicles, helicopters and zodiac boats are in common use in the place. There are no roads so it is essential to stay with an expert if you do not want to end up abandoned in the middle of nowhere and with several degrees below zero.

Cruise ships use zodiac boats to ferry tourists from ship to shore in small groups. Bring your own fuel and food, or arrange supplies in advance. You cannot purchase fuel or food on the continent. Cruise ships come fully prepared with landing transport, food, etc. Some (but not all) even provide cold-weather clothing.

Sleep

The location of Antarctica makes the act of sleeping complex: in summer (when most tourists go) it can have days that last almost 24 hours, so your biological clock will suffer severe adjustments. Remember to get enough sleep and at regular intervals to avoid these kinds of problems.

There are no commercial accommodations in Antarctica. The Estrella Polar Inn in Villa Las Estrellas, located near the airfield, has about 80 beds normally used by members of the Chilean Air Force and other delegates. The bases are only for scientists and other official delegations, so do not expect to find accommodation there. Most tourists stay in their own ship (this explains, in part, the popularity of cruises). If it is going to be a road trip, you will most likely need to stay in tents.

To buy

Little can be said about it in Antarctica, where there is practically no trade. Due to these restrictions, consider bringing everything from source before flying or sailing to Antarctica. In Villa Las Estrellas You can find a small supermarket with basic groceries and a bazaar with some souvenirs. Cruises, meanwhile, usually come with everything you need for your comfort.

There is no sale of fuel so if you want to go on an expedition, you should consider this before you travel. In Punta Arenas Y Ushuaia You can find stores with special clothing for extreme climates (gloves, jackets, snow and ice boots, etc.) and that will be vital if you do not want to risk your health.

One of the most interesting things you can buy is postal shipments from two of the southernmost post offices in the world. One of them is in Villa Las Estrellas and another in the museum of Port lockroy. You can send a letter by $ 2 to any part of the world and with an original Antarctic stamp, an exotic souvenir that can be appreciated by several of those close to you.

Work

It is possible to get employment on scientific expeditions in Antarctica. Induction and training may be required before departing for Antarctica.

There are some agencies that are responsible for finding personnel for bases on the continent:

  • Raytheon Polar Services. Agency responsible for the search of personnel for all the Antarctic bases of the United States. Applicants can apply on the website or at one of the Antarctic job fairs held in the country.
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  • British Antarctic Survey. The British Antarctic Survey will sometimes search for personnel for Antarctica and surrounding regions, such as the Falkland Islands and the South Georgia islands.
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Security

Most of the clothing worn in Antarctica and at its bases are orange in color for easy distinction in a world where white is predominant.

Due to the extreme characteristics of Antarctica, accidents are not a minor issue. Many people end up injured or killed visiting Antarctica and, while this should not scare you, it should make you cautious and keep you permanently alert. Always realistically assess the dangers of a trip and your own abilities before starting an expedition.

Since most travelers reach the frozen continent by sea, storms are the main enemy. The climate in the Antarctic Glacial Ocean is extreme, with hurricane-force winds and waves that can exceed 20 meters in a storm. The dangers of sinking in a modern ship are low, but that does not prevent one from falling off the ship or suffering severe blows if it is not properly secured. In dangerous circumstances, hold onto something and stay in your cabin until storms pass. When returning from a zodiac trip, follow the instructions of the crew and be careful when moving from platform to platform.

Once in Antarctica, the weather is the worst enemy. Although proper equipment is sufficient to avoid any problems, take all measures in case you have an emergency: although there are some rescue operations, these are complex and can take a long time. The health centers, outside of some first aid points in the main bases, are several days away and a rescue can cost several tens of thousands of dollars.

To overcome weather problems, wear appropriate clothing for extreme weather. Wear windproof and waterproof gloves, jackets, pants, and boots. Many forget to wear sunscreen and sunglasses, but they are extremely necessary: ​​remember that the ozone layer has a great hole over the area, so UV rays are poorly filtered and can be widely reflected off ice, water or snow. Dizziness is common on travel, even for experienced people, so it is essential that you carry some type of medication for these situations.

Respect

One of the main riches of Antarctica is its nature and its native fauna.

In Antarctica there is no government that acts and no laws that clearly define what to do and what not to do from a human perspective. The Antarctic Treaty and a series of subsequent agreements have defined Antarctica as a natural sanctuary where only peaceful activities aimed primarily at scientific research are allowed. This, for example, has prevented the entry of weapons or mining. The absence of a government does not prevent the absence of a protection system: the national laws of the country of origin or destination of your dispatch or of one of the complaining countries may apply. Breaking an environmental protection rule can lead to huge fines.

The Antarctic environment is very fragile, so pollution must be avoided at all costs. The expeditions have to remove all kinds of waste that they have produced. Only permanent bases have waste and water treatment systems, so in any other case it will be up to you to avoid contamination. A recurring problem is the introduction of alien species to the fragile Antarctic environment. Many tourism companies force their passengers to clean their boots after visiting a place to avoid transferring seeds or another type of item from one point to another. Clothing should be checked to avoid wearing any type of animal or plant material that could damage the ecosystem.

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