Darb Siwa - Darb Sīwa

Limestone cliffs in El ʿArag
Darb Siwa ·درب سيوة
length420 km

The Darb Siwa (Arabic:درب سيوة‎, Darb Siwa, „Sīwa slope“) Is an ancient caravan route in the Western desert in Egypt and leads from Siwa to the sink el-Baḥrīya. The depressions or oases along the slope are also summarized under the term el-ʿArag group. You need about one to one and a half days for the approx. 420 km long route.

background

Map of Darb Siwa

The Darb Sīwa is a water-rich chain of oases and has long served as a caravan route between Sīwa and el-Baḥrīya. Few flint tool finds indicate that the depressions have been settled since the Stone Age. The oasis group is probably under the name in Pharaonic times Sechet-imau (Sḫ.t-jm3w), the field of jm3-Trees, known.[1] Nevertheless, we lack archaeological evidence from these times. The recently found Amun temple in the valley el-Baḥrein from the 30th ancient Egyptian dynasty is the oldest evidence, at least he mentions the ancient name of this valley Imespep.[2] In 1900 Georg Steindorff found Krugreste between el-Baḥrīya and Sitra, which served to take care of the caravan participants.

The monuments still visible today, the rock tombs, were created or used in Greco-Roman and Christian times. The sinks el-ʿArag and el-Baḥrein were probably permanently settled. They drew their wealth from their position as trading bases along the route. There is no evidence from later times. The depressions have probably not been inhabited since then.

The entire route is scenic with its bitter lakes, limestone mountains and sand dune landscapes. Perhaps the most beautiful valley is el-ʿArag.

preparation

Landscape in el-Baḥrein
Cemetery of el-Barein

Before starting the trip, you have to get a permit from the Egyptian army. However, it is relatively easy to obtain. You need a Copy of the passport.

Approval should be obtained at least one day in advance. Of course, it has to be a working day to clear the formalities. The preparations are in both Siwa as well as in el-Bawiti possible. Obviously, however, the effort in Siwa is higher.

In the city Siwa contact the local tourist information office. The manager Mahdi Hweiti (Tel .: (0) 46 460 1388, Email: [email protected]) helps to obtain the permit, which must be applied for at least one day in advance. The permit costs LE 148 (as of 9/2014). The next morning you look for one 1 Post of the Egyptian Army(29 ° 11 '34 "N.25 ° 31 '22 "E) at the south end of the city before we can start.

In el-Bawiti, these formalities are usually handled by the renowned tour operators themselves.

The most important thing when issuing permits is: it must all, really all the destinations that you want to visit en route should be named. Under no circumstances should you skip a checkpoint on the route.

mobility

The asphalt runway, which was once laid out for the military, is no longer passable. If it is not silted up, it has an immense number of transverse grooves. In recent years, a new asphalt road has been laid in the area of ​​the old road, but so far it has only existed in parts.

It therefore makes sense to drive mostly next to the piste on the fairly firm sandy surface. For this, but also for visiting the depressions, you need all-terrain all-wheel drive vehicles (4 × 4). Especially in the area of ​​el-ʿArag you have to drive through soft, deep sand. This also requires an experienced driver.

In the area of ​​the lakes, pay attention to moist sandy areas, as there is a risk of burglary.

costs

The costs incurred naturally depend on the project. Those who want to visit the depressions should plan around 450 euros (around LE 3500) for the tour from Siwa to el-Baḥrīya. If there are two or three people traveling together, you can split the costs. So it certainly makes sense to ask around for like-minded people before the tour.

If you only want to cover the route without any sightseeing program and also resign yourself to a pickup, the costs can be reduced to around LE 1000 to 1500.

route

The route is in the direction of Siwa to el-Baḥrīya described. The opposite direction is analogous.

After the formalities with the Egyptian military in the city of Siwa have been clarified, we can start. One drives over the Zeitūn lake ʿAin Qureishat, Abū Schurūf and ʿAin Ṣāfī. In Abū Schurūf you can still stock up on bread. Before el-ʿArag you have to pass two checkpoints, namely at 2 29 ° 8 ′ 25 ″ N.25 ° 49 ′ 48 ″ E and 3 29 ° 3 ′ 41 ″ N.26 ° 10 ′ 31 ″ E.

After about 120 kilometers you reach the El-ʿArag depression. It is located about 1 kilometer east of today's road.

Sink el-ʿArag

Naive representation in one of the graves: a man kills a cattle

The valley impresses with its white limestone mountains that protrude from the surrounding sand. The local springs have mostly dried up, only a few palm trees show the original location. The deep sand requires driving skills.

Close to the largest spring ʿAin Kabīr are on 1 two ridges(28 ° 53 '42 "N.26 ° 24 '16 "E) almost 90 graves, of which individual decorations date from Greco-Roman times - still in an ancient Egyptian style - and from Christian times. Even if the latter are rather naive representations, they are the most famous of the entire route.

After about 30 kilometers in a south-southeast direction, you will reach el-Baḥrein. On the way you pass a checkpoint at 4 28 ° 47 ′ 41 ″ N.26 ° 33 '18 "E.

Sink el-Baḥrein

It is located south of the Darb Sīwa.

As the name suggests, the depression consists of two lakes lying one behind the other in an east-west direction. Two still testify to the former settlement today 2 Burial mounds(28 ° 40 ′ 18 ″ N.26 ° 30 '54 "E.) at the northeast end of the more western of the two salt lakes. There are around 50 rock graves here. The graves are undecorated and robbed.

You can rest in the graves and have a meal.

In 2003 a small temple from the 30th ancient Egyptian dynasty was found in this depression.

After about another 30 kilometers one reaches the depression en-Nuweimisa south of the Darb Sīwa. It's the only dip you can see from the street.

Sink en-Nuweimisa

The sink 3 en-Nuweimisa(28 ° 42 ′ 19 ″ N.26 ° 43 '55 "E) resembles the El-Baḥrein depression. Here, too, there are two lakes lying one behind the other in an east-west direction. The landscape is similar to that of el-Baḥrein.

His name, the little mosquito, this lake landscape lives up to its name.

After another 50 kilometers in an easterly direction you will reach Sitra. This depression is located north of the Darb Sīwa. Do not forget the control point at 5 28 ° 47 '29 "N.26 ° 55 ′ 0 ″ E to happen.

Depression and sand dunes from Sitra

Remains of an airplane

This depression is definitely one of the most attractive on Darb Sīwa. The local one 4 Bitter lake(28 ° 44 ′ 7 ″ N.26 ° 57 ′ 33 ″ E) With a length of 22 kilometers, it is also the largest on this route. The lake is located in the area of ​​shallow sand dunes.

From now on there are still about 150 kilometers to after el-Baḥrīya. Don't forget to check out those yet 5 Remains of a military aircraft(28 ° 47 ′ 2 ″ N.27 ° 34 '42 "E.) to watch. It was supposed to be heading for the airfield near Bir Matar.

In front of el-Baḥrīya one still has to pass three checkpoints, namely at 6 28 ° 27 ′ 6 ″ N.28 ° 6 ′ 45 ″ E, 7 28 ° 34 '40 "N.28 ° 31 '37 "E and 8 28 ° 23 '17 "N.28 ° 48 '47 "E..

One reaches the depression el-Baḥrīya approximately in the area of 1 ʿAin et-Tibnīya(28 ° 20 '53 "N.28 ° 49 ′ 30 ″ E) near the Ahmed Safari Camp. Now you drive to the east and reach the main town el-Bāwīṭī.

Don't forget to give your permission to the military at the end of the tour.

security

You need at least two all-terrain vehicles (4 × 4), sufficient water and provisions and a satellite phone for the trip.

As already said, under no circumstances should you miss a checkpoint on the route. Since all vehicle movements are noted, it is noticeable if you have broken down en route. And you hope for help.

health

An overnight stay in the desert is quite possible. However, avoid setting up camp near the springs, lakes or palm trees, as you cannot defend yourself against the mosquitoes. Bringing mosquito repellent with you is certainly helpful.

literature

  • Popular scientific presentations:
    • Steindorff, Georg: Through the Libyan desert to the Amonsoasis. Bielefeld [et al.]: Velhagen & Klasing, 1904, Land and people: monographs on geography; 19th, Pp. 135-138.
    • Fakhry, Ahmed: Siwa Oasis. Cairo: The American Univ. in Cairo Pr., 1973, The oases of Egypt; 1, ISBN 978-977-424-123-9 (Reprint), p. 173 (in English).
    • Vivian, Cassandra: The Western Desert of Egypt: an explorer’s handbook. Cairo: The American University at Cairo Press, 2008, ISBN 978-977-416-090-5 , Pp. 78-81 (in English).
  • Scientific representations:
    • Cosson, Anthony de: Notes on the Barēn, Nuwēmisah, and el-A‘reg Oases in the Libyan Dessert. In:Journal of Egyptian Archeology (JEA), ISSN0075-4234, Vol.23 (1937), Pp. 226-229, panels XXI-XXIV (English).
    • Kuhlmann, Klaus P [eter]: The Ammoneion: Archeology, History and Cult Practice of the Oracle of Siwa. Mainz: from Zabern, 1988, Archaeological publications; 75, ISBN 978-3-8053-0819-9 , Pp. 88-90, panels 43-47.

Individual evidence

  1. For more on the problem, see also Kuhlmann, K. P .: Ammoneion, loc. cit., P. 88. - Sethe, Kurt: The Egyptian names for the oases and their inhabitants. In:Journal of Egyptian Language and Classical Studies (ZÄS), ISSN0044-216X, Vol.56 (1920), Pp. 44-54.
  2. Sailhan, Michel: Pharaonic temple discovered in Egypt’s desert. In: Middle East Online dated February 21, 2003.
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