The Lhasa Railway is the main artery Tibet and leads from Xining above Golmud to Lhasa.
Background and story
The name is diverse: Qinghai-Tibet Train, Tibet Railway or Qingzang Railway the route is called, it leads over a total length of 1956 km from Xining in the province Qinghai to Lhasa in Tibet. When it was built, there were supporters and opponents from the start, there were and are admirers for the technical masterpiece, and there were and are critics who question the economic and tourist significance of the railway and fear that it might be used for military purposes.
Immediately after the founding of the People's Republic of China and the "peaceful liberation" of Tibet, the plan for a rail link to Tibet arose. The first section of the railway from Xining to Golmud has a length of 814 km and was built as early as 1984 to Nanshankou completed. However, it would take a few more years before the remaining 1142 km of the ambitious project could be realized. Several factors were decisive:
- Almost 90% of the route is higher than 4000 m, and the altitude made extreme demands on workers and machines. Diesel locomotives also need oxygen and lose power at great heights. Therefore, in the higher elevations, 3 instead of 2 locomotives are pre-tensioned on the train.
- About 550 km of the route lead over permafrost ground, which also has to cope with the vibrations caused by rail operations. One solution is ammonia-filled steel pipes, thousands of which were rammed into the ground at the track bed. The ammonia ensures that the soil remains frozen and therefore stable.
- In the sparsely populated highlands there are herds of yaks and antelopes that have to cross the route repeatedly on their annual migrations. This can be remedied by raising the track bed and creating passages for the animals. For long stretches the tracks are also on pillars, this creates the same effect and also helps against the thawing of the permafrost.
- In the area of the railway line there are shifting dunes, the taming of which is a prerequisite for trouble-free operation. This should be remedied by stones that have been laid in a coarse grid next to the route and on which the sand is clearly recognizable.
Construction of this second section began in 2001, was completed in 2005, and trains have been running regularly since 2006. Since then, the Lhasa Railway also decorate with some records:
- At 5072 m, the Tanggula Pass is the highest point on a railway line
- The highest station in the world is Tanggula station at 5,068 m
- The highest railway tunnel in the world is the Fenghuo Shan Tunnel at an altitude of 4,905 m.
preparation
To travel across Tibet on the Lhasa Railway, you need a Tibet Travel Permit (for more see Tibet). Current information on the Lhasabahn homepage, see web link. In addition, due to the extreme altitude, you should acclimatize to high places a few days in advance if possible.
Driving comfort
For the passengers of the Lhasa Railway there are normally 16 carriages available, one of which is a dining car. The accommodation is very different, but even in the "soft sleeper" class it does not correspond to the usual western standards. In first class there is only one squat toilet for at least 20 people, the hygiene of which often leaves a lot to be desired. The train is generally not very clean, the floors at the hot water dispensing points are often soaking wet and the equipment is partly defective. Likewise, the behavior of fellow passengers can be very strange for foreigners: So - despite the corresponding ban - it is to be expected that people will smoke on the train or that they will still talk loudly at night. The Lhasa train is an adventure trip and shouldn't be underestimated!
Driving classes
There are the following driving classes:
- Hard seat
- the cheapest class. There are three armchairs next to each other in a row, they can be turned by 90 ° and brought into sleeping position. This class leaves almost no room for comfort and is at most reasonable for the toughest of adventure travelers - “normal” western tourists are not advised to do so.
- Hard sleeper
- The cabins are designed for 6 people, 3 beds are arranged one above the other on each side. You must bring your own equipment with you.
- Soft sleeper
- “First class”: The cabins look exactly like the ones Hard sleeper, but there are only 4 beds in the cabin with correspondingly more space. Bed linen and slippers are available for every passenger. There are also sockets, space for some luggage in the cabins and washbasins at the ends of the car.
At the ends of the corridors there is a display that shows the current time, speed, altitude and the next station. There is also an information sheet about the route and the duration of the stops. It is allowed to leave the carriages during the stops - however, the stops at the viewing platforms have been suspended due to frequent cases of circulatory collapse.
Bring
You should definitely bring the following:
- Sufficient toilet paper (there is - as is often the case in China - none available!)
- Food (the food in the dining car leaves a lot to be desired and therefore cannot be recommended. It is advisable to take instant soups with you - these are the preferred food on the train, even among the Chinese, and can be filled from central hot water dispensers. In addition, plenty of water ( Altitude sickness!) And possibly tea.)
- Medicine cabinet and medication (in addition to the usual medication, anti-altitude sickness drugs should also be carried with you)
- If you are not planning a trip to the hard sleeper compartments, you should also take bed linen with you, as this is not provided there.
Important to note
Taking the Lhasa Railroad is an adventure and certainly not for everyone. The following groups of people are not advised to travel:
- Children under 14 years
- People who are mentally unstable or who quickly become stressed / panic-stricken
- People with certain fears (e.g. claustrophobics, agoraphobics, altophobics, emetophobes, mysophobes, sociophobes)
- People with other illnesses (e.g. epileptics and people with heart, circulatory, kidney or breathing problems. Basically everyone who does not feel completely fit and healthy should break off the trip)
Please also note:
- As the train travels more than 5,000 m, symptoms of altitude sickness can very likely occur. There are medical staff on board (according to the railway company) from Golmud, who should be consulted in this case. In addition, from an altitude of approx. 3,000 m, additional oxygen is blown into the wagons.
- Tibet is still a crisis area and is therefore under strict military control. Any subversive writing, weapons or photography by the military and police are prohibited.
Prices
| route | Travel time | Hard seat | Hard sleeper | Soft sleeper |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Xining-Lhasa | 26 h | 226 RMB | 495 RMB | 781 RMB |
| Lanzhou-Lhasa | 30 h | 242 RMB | 522 RMB | 823 RMB |
| Beijing Lhasa | 41 h | 360 RMB | 720 RMB | 1144 RMB |
The specified Price examples in Yuan come from the homepage of the Tibet Railway (as of 2017) lower Bunk bed is strangely more expensive than the im upper, Example for the tour to Lanzhou: above 825 RMB, below 854 RMB.
trips
Arrival in Lhasa
On arrival in Lhasa, one can quickly feel intimidated by the large number of security forces: heavily armed soldiers and police officers stand on the sides at a distance of a few meters - you should leave the station area quickly (if you stop, you are strictly asked to continue ) and under no circumstances may the security personnel take photos (this could result in the camera being drawn in). Before you are received by your guide, as a foreigner you will be taken to an outbuilding to see the Tibet Travel Permit to have checked.
Caution: altitude sickness!
It is important to always remember to drink plenty of water, exert yourself as little as possible, and under no circumstances drink alcohol or coffee. On the first day after arrival, you should avoid further excursions, use the time to acclimatize and, if possible, not shower at first in order to avoid circulatory collapse. If you experience symptoms of altitude sickness (especially headache and / or nausea), you should consult a doctor, who is often available around the clock at the hotel. There are also oxygen bottles to buy / rent everywhere that you can use (but this should not be overdone for the purpose of acclimatization). If possible symptoms have not subsided after the first few days, early departure must be considered, otherwise the situation may worsen.
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