The mountain formation of the Marmolada (Ladin: Marmoleda, Italian: Marmolada), also "Queen of the Dolomites", is centrally located in the western dolomites. The peak Punta Penia (3,343 m asl) is the highest on the Marmolada and also the highest point in the whole Dolomites.
Regions
- In the north runs the end of the valley of Val Avisio (Fassa Valley) to the lake Lago di Fedaia.
- The uninhabited valley Val di Contrin lies west of the Marmolada.
- The uninhabited valley Val Ombretta lies directly in front of the steep south face of the Marmolada.
- The valley Val Pettorina connects to the Val Ombretta southeast of the Marmolada.
places
Valley locations are:
- Canazei (1465 m s.l.m Ladin “Cianacei”), in the upper Fassa Valley;
- Arabba (1,602 m, German Buchenstein);
background
The Marmolada has two different faces: to the south above the Ombrietta valley it is a 900 meter high rock face with numerous peaks, to the north it shows itself as a glaciated ridge.
The peaks of the Marmolada above the south wall are a ridge from west to east and decreasing in height: Punta Penia (3,343 m), Punta Rocca (3,309 m), Punta Ombretta (3,230 m), Monte Serauta (3,069 m), Pizzo Serauta (3,035 m).
The border between the Trentino and Veneto, the south face is mostly in Veneto, the glacier in Trentino.
First ascent
One of the first attempts at ascent is August 3, 1802: three priests, a surgeon and an episcopal judge reach the ridge at Punta di Rocca (3,309 m slm, the eastern summit) from the Passo di Fédaia, while the priest Don Giuseppe Terza comes down on the descent Probably killed by falling into a crevasse, further attempts to climb the mountain are for the time being.
Another attempt to climb the east summit was made in 1860 by John Ball (first to climb the Monte Pelmo) accompanied by the mountain guide Tairraz. The summit success of Ball has been controversial since then, primarily on the initiative of Paul Grohmann, who is now considered to be ambitiously arrogant (see below). Grohmann also doubted various other climbs that were made by other mountaineers, because these were carried out before him and despite certain evidence of the summit success.
The official date of the first ascent of the main peak Punta di Penia is September 28, 1864, which is the ascent by the aforementioned Dolomite pioneer Paul Grohmann, accompanied by his tried and tested mountain guides.
The first ascent of the approximately 900 meter high south wall took place in 1902 by the British woman Beatrice Tomasson and their two guides Michele Bettega and Bortolo Zagonel.
Further information also on www.dolomythos.com.
First World War
The Maromlata as a border mountain and its glacier was the scene of the mountain wars in the Dolomites: The Austrian Kaiserjäger had dug a "glacier town" into the ice with numerous tunnels on the north side. These positions were considered cold, but otherwise comfortable because they were bulletproof and weatherproof. From the summit ridge, the Val di Ombrette could be controlled in a strategically favorable position and the supply routes could be shot at. The highest cannon on the Austrian front was installed on the Punta di Rocca.
The Italian Alpini attacked these positions from the south side, also underground and in the rock. Numerous relics of the war can still be found in the area today.
language
The region belongs to the Ladin part of the Dolomites, and Italian is also spoken.
getting there
- The easiest way to get there from north is done by the Val Gardena: About the Brenner motorway, (A22), motorway exit Klausen / Gröden and further through the Val Gardena on the state road SS242 to the end of the valley and over the Sella Pass to Canazei and on to the Marmolada in the Val di Contrin. Distance from the motorway exit to Canazei approx. 42 km.
mobility
It is not possible to bypass the Marmolada directly on roads, and in some cases considerable detours have to be accepted.
Mountain railways
- The east summit Punta di Rocca is also accessible to non-mountaineers via the cable cars of the Ski area in the east, the valley station of the gondola is in Malga Ciapela, accessible in summer and winter.
- 1 Funivie Marmolada (Marmolada cable car, Panorama terrace on the Punta Rocca, self-service restaurant at the Serauta station). Tel.: 39 0437 522 984.
- A lift leads from the in summer Fedaia reservoir to the Pian dei Fiacconi at an altitude of 2625 m.
Tourist Attractions
- 1 Museum of the First World War on the Marmolada (at an altitude of 2,950 m in the Serauta der cable car building Cable car from Malga Ciapela). E-mail: [email protected]. Open: during the cable car's operating hours from the beginning of December to after Easter and from June to September.Price: free entry.
glacier
- Marmolada glacier: the largest glacier in the Dolomites extends from the peaks to an altitude of around 2,700 m.
- The Vernell Glacier is the smaller glacier of the Marmolada and is located on the west side, thanks to the melting of the glaciers it is only a slightly better snowfield today.
Fedaia reservoir
In the north of the Marmolada, the Avisio river becomes a lake through an embankment dam with a dam Lake Fedaia (2,052 m) dammed up, the idyllic mountain lake can be reached on a driveway.
activities
West ridge via ferrata
From the west side, from the Marmolatascharte (2,896 m), a via ferrata (Via Ferrata Marmolada, Hans-Seyffert-Weg) leads to the Punta Penia summit (3,343 m s.l.m.), which is the hut base Rifugio Contrin (2,016 m) in the southwest of the Marmolada. Ascent from the hut to the Marmolatascharte in a good two hours on a hiking trail (No. 606), immediately in front of the shady notch there are often pronounced firn fields in late spring, often even as a firn edge.
From the north, access to the Marmolatascharte is also possible via the glacier (glacier equipment!).
The Via ferrata is then really Italian, it leads with many iron assurances from the Marmolatascharte over some smooth slabs (often wet) and with several crossings to the ridge, along the south wall and often quite exposed to the summit.
Difficulty level "C" (nothing for beginners via ferrata), total walking time in the ascent around a good six hours.
Alpine skiing
| Surname | phone | Altitude |  |  |  |  |  |  | Σ |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Arabba / Marmolada ski area | 39/(0)436-780 019 | 1,100 - 3,342 m | 4 | 16 | 2 | 25 | 28 | 9 | 62 km |
- Marmolada Glacier ski area: The cable cars lead up to the east summit (3,270 m, Punta di Rocca), and open up the east side of the Marmolata glacier for skiing.
- With a length of 12 km, the descent from the Marmolada on the La Bellunese slope is one of the longest slopes in Europe. There is a connection to the ski area of Sella Ronda in Arabba.
- The ski area belongs to Arabba ski region and to the ski network Dolomiti Superski.
accommodation
- 1 Rifugio Contrin (2,016 m asl), Loc. Val Contrin; I - 38032 - Canazei (TN) (southwest of the Marmolada south face). Tel.: 39 0462 601101, Email: [email protected].
- The hut was opened in July 1897 as "Contrinhaus" by the Nuremberg department of the Alpine Club, destroyed by the Italian Alpini during World War I and reopened in an enlarged form on July 15, 1923, expanded in 1929 and supplemented by a fallen chapel for the Alpini . It was last renovated in 2007 and is therefore considered a modern mountain hut. It is particularly popular with hikers, but is also the base for climbing the Marmolada over the West ridge via ferrata.
- The approach to the hut is from Canazei (1465 m. S.l.M.) im Fassa Valley through the Val di Contrin.
- 2 Rifugio Onorio Falier (2,074 m asl) (at the foot of the Marmolada south face in Val Ombretta). Tel.: 39 0437 722005. Open: 20/06 to 20/09.
- Rifugio Cappana Punta Penia (3,340 m. S.l.M.) (Private hut) (right at the summit of Punta Penia). Only ten places to sleep, a rather unattractive inn on the summit for tourists from the cable car as a tin hut.
climate
For general information, see section climate in the article on the Dolomites.
The current mountain weather for South Tyrol www.provinz.bz.it.
literature
cards
For hikers:
- Grödnertal-Val Gardena-Sella-Marmolada, 1: 50,000; Vol.WKS 5. freytag & berndt, 2010, Hiking leisure map, ISBN 9783850847957 .
- Alta Badia / High Abbey 1: 25,000; Vol.Sheet 07. Tobacco, Topographic hiking map.
- Val di Fassa - Marmolada - Gruppo di Sella - Catinaccio / Rosengarten: hiking map with short guide and bike tours. compass, 2011 (5th edition), Hiking map 1: 25,000, ISBN 978-3850264822 .
Web links
- [1] Report about Via Ferrata Marmolada
