Smyrna - Smirne

Smyrna
Izmir photo collage
State
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Inhabitants
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Map of Turkey
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Smyrna
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Smyrna (Izmir or in GreekΣμύρνη, Smyrni), located in the Central Aegean region, is the third largest city in the Turkey.

To know

Izmir is a tourist city that boasts a good reception system. Thanks also to the mild climate all year round and to the numerous art places rich in history, it is visited by many tourists. The city is also a large and efficient port located on the gulf of the same name in the Aegean Sea. The historic center of the city consists of Konak square and its surroundings. It is also among the places that compete for the honor of being the birthplace of the legendary poet Homer.

The name "Smyrna" (Smyrna) means "myrrh" in ancient Greek, therefore it refers to the presence of this shrub in the area where the city was founded. Izmir is the Turkish name, made official only in 1930 and in recent decades also spread abroad. In Greek as well as in Italian and in other languages ​​(mainly Latin) the name Smyrna has remained consolidated in the lexicon in place of the more recent name Turkish.

Izmir is more advanced than the Turkish average in terms of freedom, quality of life and gender equality.

When to go

Izmir is characterized by hot summers and mild, rainy winters. Rainfall throughout the year is almost 80% concentrated from November to March.

The maximum temperatures in winter are on average between 12 and 14 ° C. The summer months (between June and September) have an average temperature of over 28 ° C.

Background

The first human settlement in Smyrna can be traced back to the third millennium BC. Its development is thought to have coincided with that of Troy. Around 1500 BC it was occupied by the Hittites. In the eighth century BC, it passed under the control of Miletus, but its prosperity attracted the interest of the Persians, who occupied it, thus causing its decline and destruction. Refounded by Alexander the Great in 333 BC, it became Roman in 133 BC. and, later, it suffered a disastrous earthquake that devastated it in 178, so that the emperor Marcus Aurelius ordered it to be rebuilt.

Under the Byzantine Empire its development stopped, mainly due to the growing importance of its neighbor Ephesus. But in 1076 it was occupied by the Seljuk Turks and decayed, failing to flourish even after the Comnenian reconquest in 1098.

It was ceded to the Genoese in 1261 and then a small Genoese colony was born. Later it was ceded by them to the Hospitaller Knights (1320-1402) and finally conquered by the Ottoman Turks, who owned it for more than five centuries. The Ottoman Empire, having been defeated by the First World War, ceded Smyrna to Greece with the treaty of Sèvres (1920).

After the Greek invasion of Asia Minor and the Greek defeat at Dumlupınar, the city was recaptured by the Turkish Republican army commanded by Mustafa Kemal (1922) and devastated by a catastrophic fire that destroyed much of the old city; during the fire, amidst devastation and looting, the Christian populations, mainly the Greek ones and Armenian, partly massacred, they embarked on the Entente ships at anchor in the port, later finding refuge in Greece.

How to orient yourself

  • Konak Square - Konak is the undisputed nerve center of Izmir, recently redeveloped as a recreational space and therefore always very crowded. In the square there is the statue of Hasan Tahsin (Turkish journalist and patriot), the Yali mosque embellished with numerous mosaics, the clock tower, the town hall building and the government building.
  • Bayraklı - The excavations that were carried out in the Bornova district (first urban center of Smyrna) in the 2000s have brought to light a large number of finds with which it has been possible to demonstrate that Smyrna has always been inhabited in the "last 8,500 years". Bayraklı Tepekule is the second urban center of Izmir that has been inhabited "only" for 5,000 years.
  • Kadifekale - Literally velvet castle and once known as Pagos. It is located on a hill about 190 m from which it dominates the city and its port. The walls and its towers date back to the Lysimachus period. In 334 BC became the city center instead of Bayraklı.
  • Kemeraltı - The historic market area between Konak Square and Mezarlıkbaşı. Its central avenue (viale Anafartalar) has a curvilinear shape that once separated the mainland from the water that washed the port. To this day, Kemeraltı is the main trade center of the city where you can find everything.
The historic district of Karşıyaka
The historic district of Bornova


How to get

By plane

  • Adnan Menderes (IATA: ADB), 90 232 274 21 87, fax: 90 232 274 20 71. It is the main airport of Izmir and is located 16 km south of the city center, it has several daily flights to Istanbul, Ankara is Antalya. There are also regular flights from many European cities. There Iz Air and the Pegasus Airlines are two local carriers operating on Adnan Menderes and offering numerous domestic connections at competitive prices Turkish Airlines.

From the airport, there are several ways to reach the city:

  1. Airport shuttles (Havataş). Ecb copyright.svg10 TL per person. They depart approximately 30 minutes after arriving flights land and go to the city center. Make sure you get off the bus in the city center, as it then continues north to Tersane.
  2. Public buses. Ecb copyright.svg3.70 TL per person if you have a Kentkart. Public buses are operated by ESHOT (Department of Transport of the City Council) and are cheaper than Havataş, cheaper than Havaş.
  3. Tram (İzban). Simple icon time.svgOperational from 05:00 to midnight. Refurbished in August 2010, it connects the airport with Alsancak station in the city center, north of Konak Square, with intervals of approximately 10 minutes. From Halkapınar station (which is, in fact, the last station for some of the services) you can access the subway to get even closer to the center, such as Konak Square.
  4. Train. Ecb copyright.svg2.50 TL per person. From the airport you can walk in a few minutes to the adjacent station which takes the name of the airport and from there in 20 minutes (passing first from the Gaziemir stop) you reach the central station of Basamane. From which it is possible to walk to the main attractions and facilities of the center.

On boat

There is a ferry that connects Izmir to Izmir every weekend Istanbul taking 19 hours.

Another ferry operates up to twice a week which connects the city with in 67 hours Venice.

  • Izmir Alsancak Port (2 km north of the city center), 90 232 4648864, 90 232 4648 889, fax: 90 232 4647 834. It is the terminal where all international ferries and cruises call.

On the train

Basmane railway station (Basmane tren gar)

There are two main stations in Izmir:

  • Basmane (Located within the city), 90 232 484 86 38. Mainly served by regional trains and Metro, although the metropolitan platforms are separated from the railway ones.
  • Alsancak (Located north of the city), 90 232 458 31 31.

Among the main links are:

  • Ankara - With the very fast Mavi Tren which takes 14 hours.
  • Denizli - With three espressos a day that take 5/6 hours.
  • Isparta - Taking 9 hours.
  • Istanbul - To reach Istanbul there are two options. One entirely by train with a night train (~ 12 hours), or with a train that reaches in the day Bandirma then continue by ferry (~ 8 hours).
  • Selçuk - Town near Ephesus, with eight trains a day that take about 1 hour and a half at a cost of 5.75 TL per person (January 2014).

By bus

The bus station (otogar), is 6 km northeast of the center, although there are many dolmuş covering this route. The bus station is huge and is equipped with internet cafes, dining facilities and various ticket vendors for the upcoming buses (recognizable by the name of the destination they are shouting). It also has paid toilets.

Buses for Istanbul take 9 hours (including a short trip on a ferry) and travelers are provided free hot drinks and snacks (within the 50 TL one-way ticket price); it also makes regular stops for toilets. Check the site otobusbileti.gen.tr for bus ticket prices from Izmir to all destinations in Turkey.

How to get around

By public transport

Underground

A modern one subway line runs through the city from southwest to northeast.

Tram

The urban railway system (o Izban) in Izmir consists of two lines:

  • one connecting the city center or Konak square with the northeastern suburb of Bornova.
  • one that connects Cumaovasi (to the south) and Aliağa (to the north). It also provides connection to Seal and in other places north of Izmir.
Bus

There is an extensive public bus system covering the entire city.

Ferries

THE public ferries they are comfortable and fast inside the coast and offer a beautiful view of Izmir. They are to be preferred to others on fine days.

By taxi

There are many reasonably priced taxis.

Train

The train is convenient and cheap to move from the city center toairport, also thanks to the frequent daily runs.

Furthermore, for those arriving by train and wanting to visit the city during the day and then leave for other destinations, they can use the automatic luggage storage located in the waiting room. There are compartments of various sizes with different rates; the largest costs 7.5 TL (January 2014) and is valid for four hours. Payment is in advance and subsequent hours are paid on collection at a cost of 0.5 TL per hour (January 2014). The deposit is automatic in the sense that you have to place your baggage in the desired compartment, close the door (the light of this door will change from green to red), the fee to be paid will appear on the monitor within a maximum time of about one minute. If you do not pay, the counter reopens, otherwise a receipt with a barcode is issued. This code is the key to automatically reopening the door, therefore it must absolutely not be lost and must be kept with care.

What see

Due to the great fire of 1920, there is a relative lack of historical monuments in Izmir, especially when considering that it is a city of more than 5000 years old!

Colonnade of the Agora of Smyrna
Kadifekale fortress
  • 1 Konak Square (Konak square). Main square in the city center, famous for the clock tower, one of the distinctive symbols of Izmir. The clock tower was built in 1901. Around the square there are also the Konak Yali mosque and the Kemeraltı Bazaar.
  • 2 Governament Palace (Konak Square). Built between 1868 and 1872. The flag that today flies over the building is in memory of the one that was hoisted in 1922 to witness the liberation of the city.
  • 3 clock tower (Konak Square). Symbol of the city since the year of its construction (early 1900s) in memory of the 25th anniversary of the ascent to the throne of Sultan Abdul-Hamid II. The clock was donated by Emperor Wilhelm II of Germany as a sign of friendship between the two sovereigns and consequently between the two countries. At the four corners there are fountains.
  • 4 Asansör (Lift). It was built by a Jewish businessman in 1907. The purpose was to help residents go to their hilltop district. The lift worked with a water mechanism. Later, it was restored by the municipality of İzmir and now runs on electricity. There is a restaurant located on the top, with a view as far as the eye can see.
  • Beaches. Having a coastline on the Aegean Sea, Izmir possesses a lot of beaches which are not too far from the city center. There is public transport for most of them. The places where they are located are Seal, Dikili, Screams, Seferihisar, e Çeşme.
  • 5 Alsancak area. Small streets with lots of bars in old Greek houses, where you can have a tea or a beer and try different tastes of hookahs.
  • 6 Kadifekale. Old castle on the hill from which it takes its name.
  • 7 Agora. Literally town square. In the second century, at the time of the Romans, a center of art, trade and philosophy rebuilt by Marcus Aurelius and today its ruins are located in the Namazgâh district. There are some remains of the ancient Roman city of Smyrna. The Smyrna agora is the largest and best preserved of the Roman ones.
  • 8 Teleferik (cable car). Simple icon time.svgCurrently closed and will likely remain so for a long time. In service since 1977, it transports people 423m above sea level. There are restaurants, cafes and souvenir shops located on the top of the hill.
  • 9 Church of San Policarpo (Saint Polycarpe Kilisesi). Saint Polycarp Church (Q54413070) on Wikidata
  • 10 Covered market (Kemeraltı).

Museums

In addition to mosques and synagogues and a large variety of parks, Izmir is full of museums. Below is a list of the main ones.


Events and parties

Entrance # 9 of the Izmir Exhibition Center
  • International art festival. Simple icon time.svgBetween June and July.
  • Izmir International Fair. Simple icon time.svgAt the beginning of each September.


What to do

  • Walk along the Kordon (seafront of Izmir). Now flanked by rows of tall buildings and palm trees on one side and the Aegean on the other, with a large patch of lawn and a paved road in between, where you can take a ride on a fayton from the nineteenth century (i.e. horse-drawn carriages).
  • Shopping at Kemeraltı. A must see. A large bazaar, where you can buy clothes, gifts, etc. There are also plenty of lounges where you can sit.
  • Kızlarağası Hanı (In Kemeraltı). A historic inn (kervansaray) dating back to 1744. Today a tourist attraction where you can shop for carpets and jewelry.
  • Boat trip. Mingle with the locals and take the boat from Konak to Karşıyaka.


Shopping

Crowne Plaza Hotel and Özdilek Shopping Center in the İnciraltı district
  • Leather products. The city is famous for the production and export of leather products.
  • Bazaar. The large bazaar behind Konak Square is also very popular with locals and unlike other bazaars (such as those of Istanbul for example), you can get great deals. Many shops and stalls have prices displayed, so it is avoided that the auction base for negotiation (where possible) is excessively high.
  • Konak Pier. Modern shopping center a stone's throw from Alsancak and Konak. Designed in France, built at the end of the 19th century and up to the middle of the 20th century used as a customs house. Inside there are about fifty shops, restaurants, bars and a cinema.


How to have fun

Join the nightlife at Kıbrıs Sehitleri Caddesi in Alsancak, then visit Gazi Kadinlar Street. Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays are the days when the street is at its liveliest.

Night clubs

All pubs and cafes in the Kordon (Alsancak waterfront) are attractive in good weather.

There 1448 Sokak in Alsancak is full of bars and pubs from one end to the other. They also have outdoor pavement seats, and the price for a half-liter bottle of beer is pretty uniform - 6 TL all the way down the street.


Where to eat

Average prices

  • Yuzde Yuz 0, Konak Pier Alisveris Merkezi No. 19 (On the pier at the end of a shopping mall), 90 (232) 441 5593, @. On fine days it can be pleasant to have lunch or a snack on a table by the sea, served by attentive waiters. The prices of the menu already include service, taxes, water, bread / schiacciatine and a small delicious appetizer.


Where stay

In Izmir there are many hotels within a 5 minute walk from the train station for all tastes and budgets.

Average prices

High prices

5 star hotel


Safety

Izmir is a relatively safe city for its size, however it has its own dangerous areas. The city center as well as the populated suburbs are generally safe during the day. Use common sense if you walk at night, avoid dark and narrow alleys (found mainly in Alsancak and Konak). Avoid the roads around the main port and the roads around the railway junction (Hilal, Halkapinar). Beware of Basmane, although it is okay to stay in hostels in this neighborhood. It is also important to be cautious in Kadifekale, where one of the main landmarks of the city is located. It is not recommended to walk at night in the neighborhoods on the south side of the railway tracks near the city center.

Use common sense and you will be relatively safe. The Izmir Police Department has a "Tourist Police" section where travelers can report the loss of their passport and the theft or any other criminal activity of which they have become victims. The staff are multilingual and speak English, German, French is Arabic.

The area of ​​Konak square and the bazaar, which are the most crowded, are often manned by the police; there are also some small police stations in the area.

In case of emergency you can also contact the tourist police (Turizm Polisi), Turizm Şube Müdürlüğü, Tepecik, 90 232 489-47-77, fax: 90 232 441-11-63.

How to keep in touch


Around

In the surroundings there are several ancient city centers, some very well known, including Ephesus, Laodicea at Lico, Alaşehir (or Philadelphia), Sardinians, Thyatira is Pergamum which together with Smyrna form the seven churches mentioned by St. John the Evangelist in the book of Revelation.

Other interesting towns in the surrounding area are:

  • Çeşme - A small village for summer activities, half an hour's drive west from Izmir.
  • Selçuk - Approximately 3 hours by bus or train south of the city. It is a city with many historical attractions, as well as serving as a home base for visiting the nearby Roman city of Ephesus and the House of the Virgin Mary, where the Vatican has made it official as a Catholic pilgrimage site. It is also a few kilometers from Kuşadası, and the pleasant inland village of Şirince, famous for its wines.
  • Tire - Typical Aegean city that takes only an hour to reach it from the city center. Every Tuesday you can visit the largest open market in the Turkey and have a good lunch in the Kaplan while savoring the typical foods of the Aegean and the famous meatballs of Tire.
  • Manisa - Just east above Sabuncubeli Pass. It is the base for visiting the surroundings of Sardinians (ancient capital of the kingdom of Lydia) and Mount Sipylus, which offers a splendid and scenic forest as well as sites with mythological references.



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