Thonburi (ธนบุรี) is a vast district of Bangkok which extends over the entire west bank of the Chao Phraya River.
To know
Background
After that Ayutthaya was sacked in 1767, General Phraya Taksin declared Thonburi the new capital of Siam for a short time and it is hard to believe that this district was once the capital of the country because it lacks the great structures found in other ancient capitals. In fact, Thonbury remained relatively isolated from Bangkok and for centuries was an agricultural land full of canals and orchards. Despite being developed in recent decades, many visitors still come here for the quiet and relaxed atmosphere. The traditional life of the canals still exists here and there are still floating markets and farms with orchards.
Originally "Bangkok" was a village that today more or less corresponds to the Bangkok Noi and Bangkok Yai neighborhoods. At that time the Chao Phraya River had a completely different course than we see it today: it was shaped like a horseshoe similar to that of the Bangkok Noi and Bangkok Yai canals. One of the theories about the name of the city is that it derives from "Bang Ko", which means "island village" in Thai, referring to the village that was almost completely surrounded by the river. Bangkok was the first part of Thonburi to be inhabited because its location was convenient for storing goods arriving by transport ships and in 1542 a canal was dug that cut through the base of the river curve to shorten sailing times. The force of the current eroded the banks of the canal and in time it became the main course of the river. Bangkok was on the east bank of the old river while today it is on the west bank.
As shipping times sped up, Bangkok became a port for tax collection and a customs house for foreign traders sailing to Ayutthaya. In 1665 King Narai the Great ordered the construction of the Vichaiyen fort near the mouth of the Bangkok Yai canal to protect Ayutthaya from foreign invasions. This fort is known as Fort Vichaiprasit and can still be seen today from the Chao Phraya Express Boat. With it the city took the status of a fortified city and was renamed Thonburi. When Ayutthaya was razed to the ground by the flames of the Burmese armies in 1767, General Taksin was at the head of the resistance. A capable military leader who reconquered Siam within a year and took possession of a large part of Southeast Asia in the following decades. He became king of Siam and declared Thonburi the capital of the country. He built his palace near the fort while the residence of General Phraya Chakri (who later became King Rama I) was close to where the Wat Rakhang temple is today.
In 1779 King Taksin proclaimed himself sotapanna (divine figure) against the will of the powerful Buddhist monks and the state entered an economic turmoil with rampant corruption and starvation in the countryside. King Taksin tried to maintain order with corporal punishment and purges. While General Phraya Chakri was fighting a war against Cambodia, with an insurrection the citizens took possession of Thonburi, forcing King Taksin to renounce the throne and shortly thereafter he was secretly executed. When General Phraya Chakri returned he was offered the throne and became King Rama I, the first king of the Chakri dynasty who made him become Rattanakosin the new capital of Siam as he believed that the city would be more defensible from foreign invasions. It was the end of a short era known as the "Thonburi period" but not the end of "Bangkok" as foreigners never adapted to the change and continued to use that name for the east bank of the river even though it is technically incorrect.
Thonbury remained relatively underdeveloped compared to the neighboring district across the river, with an economy based primarily on agriculture of orchards and canals. Many varieties of Durian have been developed in Thonburi, including Mon thong, Chanee and Kan yao. Many of the orchards disappeared with the development of the area and in 1932 Thonburi was physically connected to Rattanakosin with the construction of the Bridge of Memory. Thonburi's distinct identity was maintained until 1971 when it was incorporated into the city of Krung Thep (Bangkok).
How to orient yourself
Thonburi: full screen map.Thonburi is a large district and it is not easy to find your way around. The area is difficult to visit on foot as the places of interest are scattered and distant, most of the main roads are blocked by traffic and there are no pedestrian bridges to cross the canals. For this reason, many travelers choose to tour the canals. However, this does not mean that you cannot have an independent experience of the area: almost all the streets are "walkable" and there are some pedestrian bridges, but it is better to be prepared for the worst, right?
How to get
The easiest way to get to Thonburi is by ship. The ferry Chao Phraya Express Boat sail the river back and forth for 15 baht. Sometimes the cashiers insist on having the ticket bought before boarding but you can also buy it on board. If you go north towards the pier of Sathorn (from Silom), the first pier on the Thonburi side is Wang Lang. It is the easiest entry point as all lines stop there and the Wang Lang area is one of the most interesting in Thonburi. If, on the other hand, you head south coming from the pier of Phra Arthit (from Khao San Road) Wang Lang is the second pier on the Thonburi side. If you want to go to the National Museum of Royal Boats, you will disembark at the dock Phra Pin Klao Bridge.
There are many ferries that cross the river from Rattanakosin is Silom which are used a lot by commuters because the crossing costs only 3 baht. If you visit the temple Wat Arun you have to go to Tha Tien's pier Rattanakosin and embark on the Wat Arun ferry service. Other noteworthy ferries are from Tha Chang to Wang Lang and from Tha Phra Chan to Wang Lang.
By subway
In May 2009 the BTS Silom Line to Thonburi was opened and the current last stop of Bang Wa opened in 2013. From there, you can take a taxi to the floating markets of Khlong Lat Mayom and Taling Chan without getting stuck in the traffic going into the center. The BTS station Wongwian Yai it is close to the train station of the same name but you need a taxi to get there. The best way to get to Thomburi from the city center is to take the skytrain to the train station Saphan Taksin then board the Chao Phraya Express Boat ferry.
By bus
Getting to Thonburi by bus is very complicated, so it is advisable to use this option as a last resort. The use of the bus is however necessary to reach some destinations such as the floating market of Taling Chan to reach which you can take the 79 from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road nearby Khao San Road. Make sure you take it in the right direction (crossing the river) and ask the passengers where the stop is to avoid getting lost.
How to get around
What see
- 1 Wat Arun (วัด อรุณ).
50 baht. 
Mon-Sun 07: 30-17: 30. Known as the Temple of Dawn, is a representative temple on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River near the naval base. It is a royal temple of the highest grade and is the most visited tourist attraction in Thonburi, easily accessible by three ferries from Wat Pho Pier to Rattanakosin. Ferries depart every ten to fifteen minutes and travel every day from 06:00 to 22:00. Walking into the temple garden is free but costs 50 baht to visit. It is recommended that you visit the complex to also see the porcelain pieces that decorate the building.
50 baht. 
Mon-Sun 07: 30-17: 30. Known as the Temple of Dawn, is a representative temple on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River near the naval base. It is a royal temple of the highest grade and is the most visited tourist attraction in Thonburi, easily accessible by three ferries from Wat Pho Pier to - This location has been occupied by a temple since the Ayutthaya period. Initially named as Wat Makok which means "temple of the olive" thanks to the many olive groves once present in the area. After the fall of Ayuttaya, General Taksin returned from the war he was fighting to retake Siam from the Burmese armies and arriving in Thonburi in the morning. He appears to have seen the temple at dawn and the temple has taken its name ever since Wat Chaeng or Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), used by King Taksin as a royal temple was within the grounds of the Wang Derm Palace, his personal residence. In the Thonbury period this temple housed for many years the recovered statue of the Emerald Buddha which was then moved to the Grand Palace in Rattanakosin in 1785. In the Rattanakosin era the temple lost its special status to give it to the Wat Phra Kaeo temple in the Grand Palace. Real but still one of the most representative temples of Thailand. His image is printed on the 10 baht coins and is the logo of the Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT).
- The stunning main prang (tower) in Thai, called Phra Prang Wat Arun, dominates the Chao Phraya River and is not only the symbol of Thonburi but is a world famous landmark and one of the most photographed in Thailand. The prang was built during the Ayutthaya period in a classical style, rebuilt and enlarged during the reign of King Rama II with the works that ended during the reign of King Rama III. The height appears to be between 66 and 86 meters and was the tallest structure in the city before the advent of skyscrapers. The main prang with its four satellite prangs are decorated with broken pieces of porcelain thought to have come from sunken Chinese ships.
- Very steep steps lead to two terraces surrounding the prang from which you have a beautiful view of the river, the Grand Palace, the Wat Pho temple and the city center. Besides the main prang you can also visit the main chapel, the picture room, the Chinese style bell tower and the river pavilions.
Places of worship
- 2 Santa Cruz Church (วัด ซาง ตา ค รู้ ส), 112 Tesaban 1 Road (Memorial Bridge Pier), ☎ 66 2 466 0347. Santa Cruz Church is an interesting Roman Catholic church on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. After the fall of Ayutthaya due to the Burmese invasion, King Takisin ordered the displaced to reside in Thonburi, the new capital of Siam. The king also dictated that the Chinese community would settle in the Wat Kalayanamit temple area while the Portuguese would settle along the river. The Portuguese gave military support to King Taksin to help push the Burmese armies out of Siam. In recognition of their support, King Takisn granted the Portuguese a piece of land on which to build a church. The first Santa Cruz church was built in wood in 1770 and once in a decaying state it was rebuilt in Chinese style as it was close to the Chinese community of Wat Kalayanamit and was called "Kudichin church" (Chinese church) and the Portuguese who lived here were called " Farang Kudichin "(Western Chinese Temple). In 1916 the third and current church of Santa Cruz was built under the reign of King Rama IV, in a beautiful Italian architectural style. The community that lives in the surrounding area is still authentic and they gave birth to a sweet cake with the name "Khanom Farang Kudichin".
- 3 Wat Kanlayanamit temple (วัด กัลยาณมิตร วรมหาวิหาร), 656 Tesaban 1 Road (Kanlayanamit pier). Located at the mouth of the Bangkok Yai Canal on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, it is a huge temple very famous in the Chinese-Thai community. Founded in 1825 by a Chinese nobleman who donated his residence and bought a piece of land to build a temple during the reign of King Ramam III when trade with China was flourishing, the viharn is in typical Thai style but the two buildings of side they look Chinese. Inside the viharn there is a large image of the Buddha with the name Phraputtatrirattananayok, 15.44 meters high and 11.75 meters wide, so large that it almost completely filled the room. The image is called Sampokong by devotees of Sino-Thai descent. The inner courtyard is full of statues and gates imported from China. Every day during the Chinese New Year festival, this temple fills with worshipers and visitors.
- 4 Wat Prayoon temple (วัด ประยุร วงศ์), 24 Prachathipok Road (Memorial Bridge Pier), ☎ 66 2 465 5592. 30 baht. Mon-Sun 09: 00-16: 30. Temple near the banks of the river. The first thing you see is a large white chedi, an Ayutthaya-style shrine and it is the only one in this style in Bangkok. King Rama II tried to create a similar chedi on Mount Golden but the ground gave way and collapsed. If you want to take a nice night photo of the chedi just go to the Ponte della Memoria after sunset, when it is well lit. Most of the visitors, however, come to the Khao Mor cemetery, a large motagnola at the entrance to the temple. The mound is covered with many shrines, chedis, spiritual houses and even a doll's house and is a beautiful and intense walk. There is a swimming pool with turtles that can be fed with food that can be purchased from the outside stalls. Another attraction is the small two-room museum with Khon masks, papier mache pigs and other items.
- 5 Wat Rakhang temple (วัด ระฆัง โฆ สิ าม ราม วรมหาวิหาร), 250 Trok Wat Rakhang (Wat Rakung pier), ☎ 66 2 418 1079. Free. Mon-Sun 06: 00-18: 00. This temple was built during the Ayutthaya period and was later rebuilt and promoted to a Royal Temple by King Taksin and renamed "temple of bells" following the discovery of a huge bell that stood here during the reign of King Rama I. This Significant temple was the residence of many patriarchs of the Rattankosin Period including Somdej Toah, a highly respected monk in the reign of King Rama V. Notable things are the beautiful murals of the Ordination Hall, the Image Hall and the Bell Tower. On the outside there is a row of bells and it is thought that ringing them one after the other brings luck. The entrance to the building is right on the bank of the river and is illuminated very well at night.
- 6 Wat Suwannaram temple (วัด สุวรรณาราม), 33 Charan Sanitwong Soi 32. Free. Mon-Sun 08: 00-18: 00. Large royal temple on the banks of the Bangkok Noi canal built during the reign of King Rama I and restored during the reign of King Rama III. Inside there are exceptional murals depicting the "Jutaku", divinity and the Buddha in the Mara position. These works of art from the early Rattanakosin Period (early 19th century) are considered to be among the best remaining wall paintings. A particularly interesting mural is a Dutchman holding a telescope. At the time the Dutch were associated with modern inventions and were highly respected in Siam.
- 7 Wat Samphran (วัด สามพราน).
Museums
- 8 Bangkok Noi Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์ เขต บางกอกน้อย), Charan Sanitwong Soi 32 (Inside the Suwannaram Witthayakom school, near the Wat Suwannaram temple), ☎ 66 2 424 6873. Free. Wed-Sun 09: 00-16: 00. Bangkok History Museum Noi and the village of "Bangkok" that used to be here. Bangkok Noi was an important center of trade during the Ayutthaya Period and briefly also the capital of Siam during the Thonburi Period. The exhibition also covers the Rattanakosin Period when Bangkok Noi consisted largely of orchards. Many people worked as craftsmen, some of them built bronze bowls, exhibited in the museum.
- 9 House of Museums (บ้าน พิพิธภัณฑ์), Khlong Pho Land, 170/17 Moo 17, Khlong Pho Soi 2, Sala Thammasop Road (Drive along Phutthamonthon Sai 2 Road towards the railroad tracks or Khlong Maha Sawat; at the end of the road, turn left into Sala Thammasop Road and follow the signs for the museum), ☎ 66 8 9666 2008. 30 baht. Sat-Sun 10: 00-17: 00. The exhibition shows a collection of ancient and modern objects used in everyday life by the people of the villages and small towns. Toys, books, letterheads, household items and kitchen utensils form an important legacy for the present. The modern 3 and a half storey building with three huge rooms covers an area of 232sqm. The first floor shows old "shpohouse" shopping centers from 1957 onwards, with cafes, pharmacies, barbers and so on. There are also rooms with temporary exhibitions.
- 10 Anthropological Center Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn (ศูนย์ มานุษยวิทยา สิริ น ธร), 20 Borommarachachonnani Road (Close to the Taling Chan floating market), ☎ 66 2 880 9429. Free. Mon-Sat 09: 00-16: 00. Center for the collection of anthropological data collected in various parts of the country. The variety of exhibits on Thailand's cultural and social development, ethno-archeology and ceramics are very interesting for visitors. You can also visit the exhibition on the biography of Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn.
- 11 National Museum of Royal Boats (พิพิธภัณฑสถาน แห่ง ชาติ เรือ พระ ราช พิธี), Arun-Amarin Road (From the Phra Arthit pier, walk over the Phra Pin Klao bridge, turn left into Wat Dusitaram Road, pass the Wat Dusitaram temple school, then cross an alley that passes through a residential area; then follow the signs for the museum.), ☎ 66 2 424 0004. Mon-Sun 09: 00-17: 00. Located at the mouth of the Bangkok Noi canal, this museum has many Royal Boats on display for state ceremonies on the river. Carved in the shape of famous mythological creatures from the Ramayana epic story. The most spectacular is the Golden Swan (Suphannahongse) built in 1911 during the reign of King Rama IV and carved from a single piece of teak wood. The bow represents a mythical swan adorned with gold lacquer and glass jewels. Most visitors come here with the "Canal Tour" package but it can also be visited independently.
- 12 Siriraj Museums, Phran Nok Road (Wang Lang Pier), ☎ 66 2 419 7000, 66 2 419 6363. 40 baht. Mon-Sat 09: 00-16: 00. These museums are old and dusty and many of them lack English descriptions. Most of the visitors are Thai students who have to see these places for study but some foreigners also happen to be there. The Forensic Medicine Museum is the most famous and there are other museums within the district, such as the Congdom Anatomy Museum, the Sood Sangvichien Prehistoric Museum, the Songkran Niyomsane Museum of Forensic Medicine, the Parasitology Museum, the Ellis Pathological Museum and the Veekit Veeranuvati Museum of Traditional Thai Medicine.
- 13 [link not working]Sunthorn Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์ สุนทร), 82/10 Sukhaphiban 1 (just off Phetkasem Road near the Lotus supermarket), ☎ 66 2 802 0863, 66 2 802 0864. 200 baht. Sat 11: 00-17: 00. Private museum managed by Mr. Sunthorn Chunothaisawat. It houses antiques from different periods such as BMW motorcycles from the period between the two world wars, various models of antique clocks, lamps, toys made of zinc, radios, typewriters, fans and sewing machines, all well maintained and in good condition.
Parks and monuments
- 14 Monument of King Taksin the Great (พระบรม ราชา นุ รี ย์ พระเจ้าตากสิน มหาราช), Prajadhipok Road (Wongwian Yai BTS Station). Free. Equestrian statue located on the Wongwian Yai roundabout near the station of the same name. The king is depicted with his right hand holding a sword, the statue is 9 meters high measured from the horse's feet to the spire of the hat, resting on a reinforced concrete pedestal of about 9x2 meters base and 3.9m high. On two sides of the pedestal there are two relief stucco frames. The opening ceremony of this monument was held on April 17, 1954 and the fair to pay homage to it takes place every December 28.
- 15 Memorial Park of the Princess Mother (อุทยาน เฉลิมพระเกียรติ สมเด็จ พระ ศรี น ค ริน ทราบ รม ราช ชนนี), Somdet Chao Phraya Soi 3 (Memorial Bridge Pier), ☎ 66 2 437 7799. garden Mon-Sun 06: 00-18: 00, museum Mon-Sun 08: 30-16: 30 daily, closed for national holidays. Nice park built near the Anongkharam community where Her Royal Highness Mother Princess Somdej Phra Srinagarindra Boromarajajonani lived as a child. The park contains a life-size reconstruction of the Princess Mother's house. The old buildings have been restored and converted into showrooms with exhibits on the history of the Princess Mother and the Wat Anongkharam temple community.
What to do
Canal Tour
Many organized tours on the Thonburi canals also include a visit to the serpentarium Thonburi Snake Farm. In addition to a snake show, there is also a small zoo with various animals kept in cages for the purpose of entertaining tourists. Conscientious travelers should know that the animals in this zoo live in poor conditions and in cages that are too small. There are no signs to inform visitors as the animals are there for entertainment only. If you don't want to visit this zoo just make sure you book a tour that doesn't include this destination. An alternative to visit is the reptile house Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm to Silom.
Nineteenth-century Bangkok had so many canals that it earned the nickname "Venice of the East". Ever since it turned into a metropolis, the remaining canals in Thonburi and the Chao Phraya River give meaning to what was once everyday life around the canals and it's no wonder that most tourists visit the district by boat. Many organized tours and floating markets are quite fake but in the morning you might run into authentic floating vendors rowing from house to house trying to sell ready-made food.
The cheapest option is to take a fixed price tour which is a package that typically includes a visit to the Wat Arun temple, the Royal Boat Museum, and a floating market. You can book through a travel agency but it's easier to go to the pier. There are two companies operating, one from Tha Chang wharf a Rattanakosin and the other from Si Phraya Pier a Silom, near the River City Mall.
- Mitchaophraya Tourist Services (Tha Chang pier), ☎ 66 2 225 6179. Located on the Chang wharf, this operator offers many tours. All include a visit to the Wat Arun temple, the Royal Boat Museum and a floating market. During the week days they pass by the "Thonburi Floating Market" which is not really worth the effort as it is set up for tourists only; it is best to take the weekend tour which goes to the Taling Chan Floating Market which although not authentic feels more genuine and more alive. The one-hour tour passes the Bangkok Noi and Mon canals for 800 baht. The 90-minute tour also passes the Bangkok Yai canal for 1,000 baht. The complete tour takes two hours for 1,200 baht and goes further into Thonburi where you can visit an orchard.
- 1 Pandan Tourism Society, 780/488 Charoen Krung Road, Bang Kho Laem, ☎ 66 8 7109 8873, @[email protected]. over 1,000 . Mon-Sun 08: 00-16: 00. This operator offers day tours which are slightly different whether they are taken during the week or on the weekend. During the week the tours start from the Wat Sai Morning temple market and pass by a fruit tree nursery, Wat Pa Chang Lane temple or "Jungle Temple" and then continue on to a traditional wooden house of a family who builds boats. in miniature and the "artist's house" for a Thai traction puppet show. The weekend tour first passes by the Artist's House and then continues to the Lat Mayom Floating Market. This tour is recommended as the market is more authentic and more fun than the Wat Sai market. These tours use a traditional Thai teak wood boat and offer life jackets. Unlike other tours, you can ask to stop anywhere along the canal. Call ahead for information and ask for Tom, the Thai-American owner.
- The Boat Tour Center (Si Phraya Pier). It operates from Si Phraya Pier and offers one-hour tours for 800 baht and two-hour tours for 1,500 baht. One hour is a quick ride on the Chao Phraya River. In the two hour one you will visit the floating market of the Wat Sai temple (if arriving around 08:00 during the week) or go up north to the Wat Arun temple and the National Royal Boat Museum (at any other time).
Trips can also be organized by renting a boat along the canals on the east side of the river. The best place to do this is at the Tha Chang pier or at the Tha Tien on the river side of Rattanakosin. It is also possible to do this at the Oriental Pier a Silom and at the Bangkok Information Center under the nearby Phra Pinklao Bridge Khao San Road. The main channels where tourists can navigate are the Bangkok Noi canal, the Bangkok Yai, the Daan and the Chakphra. Be prepared to haggle and pay no more than 1,000 / 1,500 baht for a two-hour non-stop tour.
Another option is the boat service from the Chang wharf. It operates every morning from 06:30 to 11:00 and departs every half hour or when it has enough passengers. The ticket price is only 30 baht each and you will visit an orchard and a floating market.
- 2 Anantara Cruises, 257 / 1-3 Charoennakorn Road, ☎ 66 2 476 0022, @[email protected]. From 32,000 baht. Chao Phraya River Cruises. I offer both private and shared cruises, with two rooms with private bathrooms. They leave on Monday and Tuesday.
Shopping
Floating markets
- 1 Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำ คลอง ลัด มะยม), 30/15 Moo 11, Bang Ramat Road (bus 146 to Kanchanaphisek Road, get off at Samakom Chao Pak Tai offices, then take a songthaew for 15 minutes on the Rod Fai-Wat Pu Theun route towards Bang Ramat Road.). Sat-Sun and national holidays 09: 30-16: 00. This is a main attraction with a pleasant atmosphere. The floating market is on both sides of the Lat Mayom canal on Bang Ramat Road. It is a rather new market that opened in 2004 and is not often visited by organized tours. It has many stalls, a small boat museum, many footpaths around the market, toilets, a few open-air restaurants and a large variety of food and goods for sale. Sometimes there are outdoor shows performed by local children or organizations. Open only on weekends and easily accessible. Some boat tours stop here after passing the Talin Chan floating market.
- 2 Taling Chan Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำ ตลิ่งชัน), Chak Phra Road (bus 79 from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road or Siam Square), ☎ 66 2 424 1742. Free. Sat-Sun 07: 00-17: 00. Main attraction along the Chak Phra canal held every weekend. It's better to come here than take a boat tour to Wat Sai and it feels more authentic as it mixes a farmer's market with canal life. The vendors are local farmers who offer their products: plants, vegetables, fruit, fish and other types of food. there are also floating food vendors and private canal boat tour services. It can be reached either by bus or by car, not far from Bangkok's South Bus Terminal.
- 3 Wat Sai Temple Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำ วัด ไทร), 11 Moo 2, Ekkachai Road (bus 43 or 120 from Wongwien Yai). Free. Mon-Sun 06: 00-09: 00. This floating market along the Sanam Chai canal was a popular destination for tourists who wanted to see traditional life along the canals. Unfortunately the construction of new roads in the area caused this market to be abandoned in 1977. It was recently restarted but it doesn't look as authentic as it once did although it is still interesting to book a canal tour along this historic waterway. and admire the market full of boats and products for sale.
Markets
- 4 Bang Ramat Market, Bang Ramat Road (from the South Bus Terminal go south along Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road for 2km; the market is on the corner of Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road and Bang Ramat Road). Mon-Sun afternoon-evening. Outdoor area market filled with locally produced food, delicacies, clothes, souvenirs and miscellaneous items. Among the clothes on sale are new, used, western and oriental. There are also CDs, DVDs, VCDs, children's toys, telephone accessories, handbags and purses, weapons, bathroom accessories, gifts for ceremonies, etc. for sale. Children can play on the inflatable playground. Very famous and well known among the locals but rarely visited by tourists. The best time to visit is mid-afternoon when it is at its fullest.
- 5 Bang Phrom Market (near the intersection of Wat Kaeo-Phutthamonthon Sai 1 and Kaeo Ngoen Thong Road in the Bang Phrom subdistrict). Another open area market similar to the one in Bang Ramat but slightly larger and busier.
- 6 Khlong San Market (ท่าเรือ คลองสาน) (Take the express ferry to Si Phraya, then take the ferry across the river to Klongsan pier). Mon-Sun 08: 30-18: 30. Located on a Soi off Charoen Nakhon Road, teenage clothes and well-priced shoes are for sale. Best to visit in the afternoon.
- 7 Thonburi Railway Market (ตลาด รถไฟ ธนบุรี), Soi Nikhom Banphak Rotfai (Take a taxi to Thonburi Railway station). 03:00-18:00. Fresh produce market that runs along the railway tracks for 350 meters. It opens before dawn and most of the products are sold by lunchtime although some stalls remain open even after. It is also worth coming here to buy some food if you arrive early at Thonburi station.
- 8 Wang Lang Market (ตลาด วังหลัง), Soi Wang Lang, Phran Nok Road (Wang Lang wharf). Mon-Sun 10 am-7pm. Wang Lang is a small street full of shops and stalls, often called the Ladies' Market because most of the products here are for women. It fills up around noon when the locals come here for lunch and at that time it might be difficult to find your way around. Wednesday is the best time to go because it is the day when new second hand products arrive even if the market is always full.
Shopping centers
- 9 Central Plaza Pinklao (เซ็นทรัล พ ลาซา - ปิ่น เกล้า), 7/222 Borommaratchachonnani Road (take a taxi from Wang Lang Pier), ☎ 66 2 877 5000. Lun-Gio 10:30-21:30, Ven-Dom 10:30-22:00. Il più grande centro commerciale e comprensorio di uffici di Thonburi. Sei piani di negozi, banchetti, ristoranti, banche e karaoke. Il Central Department Store è all'interno e su più piani. Ci sono anche le altre catene oltre a negozi di libri, elettronica e vestiti. Il modo più semplice per arrivarci è in taxi ma si possono prendere anche autobus e songthaew.
- 10 The Mall Bang Khae (เดอะมอลล์ บางแค), 275 Phetkasem Road (all'incrocio tra Phetkasem Road e Kanchanaphisek Road), ☎ 66 2 487 1000. Lun-Ven 10:30-22:00, Sab-Dom 10:00-22:00. Un grande centro commerciale su più livelli con molti negozi, banchetti, ristoranti e cinema. Situato in fondo alla strada dall'ospedale Kasemrad.
- 11 The Mall Tha Phra (เดอะมอลล์ท่าพระ), 99 Ratchadapisek Road (Stazione BTS Talat Plu si prende l'uscita 4 e si cammina verso sud), ☎ 66 2 469 1000. Lun-Ven 11:00-21:30, Sab-Dom 10:00-21:30. Il modo più semplice per raggiugerlo è con lo skytrain. Sei piani di negozi, un supermercato, telefonia, ristoranti e un cinema.
How to have fun
- 1 Cinema Major Cineplex Pinklao (เมเจอร์ ปิ่นเกล้า), 554-554/12 Borommaratchachonnani Road (dal molo di Wang Lang si prende il taxi), ☎ 66 2 433 8341. 150 baht. Lun-Dom 10:30-22:00. Un cinema grande e di lusso è un affarone vedersi dei film in confronto ai cinema occidentali. Vengono proiettate tutte le ultime novità di Hollywood e thailandesi con sottotitoli in inglese. Se si deve aspettare un pò per il prossimo spettacolo si possono fare delle compere al centro commerciale attaccato.
Non c'è da aspettarsi molto dalla vita notturna di Thonburi. Ci sono alcuni bar in giro per la zona ma non sono molto interessanti, a meno che non si voglia sperimentare la vita del posto.
- 2 Taling Bar (ตลิ่งบาร์), Wang Lang Road (Molo Wang Lang), ☎ 66 8 1984 6382. Lun-Dom 16:00-00:00. Semplice bar/ristorante dove rilassarsi sul fiume recentemente ristrutturato e ingrandito. La sera il Grande Palazzo Reale è illuminato benissimo e si può prenderci un birra, un cocktail o cenare con questo sfondo prima di dirigersi a Khao San Road. Oltre ad una vista bellissima è interessante anche per vivere un po' la vita notturna locale. Quando ci si siede vengono offerte noccioline fritte gratuite e la musica dal vivo comincia alle 20:30 ogni sera.
- 3 Three Sixty Lounge, 32F, Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoen Nakhon Road (traghetto navettadal molo River City Pier o Sathorn Pier), ☎ 66 2 442 2000. Lun-Dom 17:00-01:00. Un lounge bar che offre una vista spettacolare a 360˚ della città e del fiume e di solito c'è un gruppo che suona jazz. I cocktail costano 250 baht, più economici di altri posti di alto livello in zone simili. Si può fumare nelle zone consentite.
Where to eat
Se si vuol mangiare come la gente del posto o si hanno pochi soldi si può andare al mercato Wang Lang. Le strade principali e le secondarie sono piene di ristoranti senza nome e carrettini che vendono cibo di ogni sorta per meno di 50 baht. Conosciuto come uno dei migliori posti in Thailandia per mangiare cibo del sud. La storia narra che i thailandesi meridionali colonizzarono quest'area perché i treni dal sud arrivavano alla vicina stazione di Thonburi.
La zona di Bang Ramat ha molti ristoranti economici molto comoda se si aspetta un autobus al Terminal Sud, basta camminare lungo Phuttamonthon Sai 1 Road e si troveranno molti ristoranti, specialmente all'incrocio tra Ban Suan Phutthamonthon Road e Wat Kaeo-Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road. Offrono cucina tradizionale thailandese, dolci thailandesi e occidentali, bevande e stuzzichini. Molte prelibatezze costano meno di 25 baht.
Central Plaza Pinklao è una buona alternativa se si cercano dei ristoranti di medio livello, come il Yayoi e sizzlers oppure le catene di fast food. Se si è altrove a Thonburi i venditori ambulanti sono da per tutto nel distretto oltre ai soliti negozi 7-Eleven.
- 1 Ruam Tai, 375/4 Phran Nok Road (Dal molo di Wang Lang si cammina lungo Phran Nok Road, si attraversa poi Arun Amarin Road e si continua a camminare verso l'incrocio con Soi Watthana), ☎ 66 2 411 0842. 50 baht. Mon-Sun 06: 00-20: 00. Ristorante di strada tipico, buono per provare della cucina del sud. Si può provare il Gaeng som, una zuppa di verdure aspra. Sull'angolo opposto c'è Dao Tai, un altro ristorante di cucina meridionale. Entrambi i ristoranti hanno menu e insegne solo in thailandese.
- 2 Supatra River House (สุภัทรา ริเวอร์ เฮ้าส์), 266 Soi Wat Rakhang (molo di Wang Lang), ☎ 66 2 411 0305. 1.000-2.000 baht. Lun-Dom 11:30-14:30, 18:00-22:30. Ristorante di lusso situato nella residenza in stile tradizionale di Khunying Supatra Singholaga una donna d'affari di successo che ha fatto fortuna iniziando il servizio di traghetti espressi a Bangkok e figura chiave per i diritti delle donne. C'è un piccolo museo all'interno dell'edificio dedicato alla sua collezione d'arte. Sul menu ci sono piatti thailandesi e di pesce. Da provare è il gambero di fiume fritto con salsa di tamarindo. Bellissima vista sul fiume, soprattutto di notte quando il Grande Palazzo Reale è illuminato. Il Sabato sera alle 20:30 ci sono degli spettacoli di danza. Consigliabile prenotare in anticipo.
- 3 [link previously not working]Yok Yor Marina and Restaurant (ร้านอาหาร ยกยอ มารีน่า), 885 Somdet Chao Phraya Soi 17 (dall'altra parte del fiume rispetto al molo Marine Department), ☎ 66 2 863 0565, 66 2 863 0566. 400 baht. Mon-Sun 11: 00-00: 00. Si può sedere sul terrazzo all'aria aperta lungo il fiume Chao Phraya o all'interno con l'aria condizionata e musica dal vivo. Il menu è di pesce, hanno anche ostriche, e molluschi. Gran parte della clientela è gente del posto in quanto è sulla sponda del fiume di Thonburi. Le uniche noie sono la macchina del karaoke e la televisione ad alto volume richiesta dai clienti che potrebbe rovinare l'atmosfera.
- 4 ZOOM4ZOOM5 (สุ่ม4สุ่ม5), 396/8 Phran Nok Road (All'interno dell'edificio del molo Wang Lang), ☎ 66 2 866 8745. 40-70 baht. Mon-Sun 10 am-11pm. Ristorante economico molto raccomandato per i prezzi e la bella vista sul fiume. A sera si possono godere i luoghi turistici più belli perfettamente illuminati, come il Grande Palazzo Reale, il tempio Wat Arun e il tempio Wat Kalayanamit. Si ordina alla cassa e il menu è anche in inglese. I bicchieri si prendono da uno scaffale e ci si fa da soli per i cubetti di ghiaccio. Alcuni piatti da provare sono il riso fritto con salsa piccante thailandese e il pollo fritto. Se si ha molto appetito si può ordinare anche il tortino di gamberi macinati.
Where stay
Moderate prices
- 1 Baan Tipa Prannok, 225/1-2 Soi Itsaraphap 45 (a 750m a sud della stazione del treno di Thonburi). 800-1.000 baht. Stanze private con aria condizionata, TV e connessione Wi-Fi. Colazione compresa nel prezzo.
- 2 Bangkok Station, 20 Soi Krungthonburi 4 (Stazione BTS Wongwian Yai, all'uscita 4, si oltrepassa l'ascensore e si svolta a sinistra.). 800-1.000 baht. Ostello con aria condizionata, bagni condivisi e connessione internet Wi-Fi gratuita.
Average prices
- 3 River Side Bangkok, 195 Ratchawithi Road (molo di Krung Thon Bridge), ☎ 66 2 883 1588, 66 2 883 1520. 800-2.500 baht. Albergo a due stelle con 262 stanze "superior" e "deluxe". Le stanze sono accessoriate con servizi moderni ed alcune includono il servizio di colazione in camera. Molte stanze hanno una bella vista sul fiume
- 4 The Royal City Hotel, 800 Borommaratchachonnani Road (a circa 500m dal centro commerciale Central Plaza Pinklao), ☎ 66 2 435 8888. 2.200-2.600 baht. Albergo decente con stanze grandi, comode e pulite anche se piuttosto vecchio e buio. Molti servizi compresa una piscina, una palestra e un centro massaggi. Il personale è molto gentile e d'aiuto. Non c'è molto da fare nella zona a parte i 7-eleven.
- 5 The Royal River Hotel, 219 Charan Sanitwong Soi 66/1 (Molo di Krung Thon Bridge), ☎ 66 2 422 9222. 2.200-2.700 baht. Buon albergo con grandi stanze, comode e pulite. Le stanze deluxe di questo albergo hanno una terrazza grande con una bella vista sul fiume. È bello farsi un bagno in piscina dopo aver passato tutto il giorno a camminare.
- 6 Sivalai Place, 168 Itsaraphap Soi 33, ☎ 66 2 412 4000. 999-2.900 baht. Questo alberghetto offre stanze grandi e pulite in un ambiente comodo. Molti servizi disponibili compresa una piscina, un campo da tennis, un ristorante, un tavolo da biliardo, una sala karaoke e una palestra.
High prices
- 7 Anantara Riverside Spa & Resort, 257/1-3 Charoen Nakhon Road (treghetto navetta dal molo Sathorn Pier), ☎ 66 2 476 0022. 3.300-29.000 baht. Una volta questo era il Marriot ed oggi è uno dei migliori alberghi di Bangkok. La posizione un po' fuori mano potrebbe scoraggiare a prenotare qui ma l'ambiente è molto rilassato e sembra di essere in un resort. Ci sono anche dei traghetti navetta dalla stazione BTS Saphan Taksin quindi si può raggiungere il centro piuttosto facilmente. Le stanze sono magnifiche con una piscina tranquilla e una buona colazione.
- 8 Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel, 257 Charoennakorn Road, ☎ 66 2431 9100, @[email protected]. 4.000-9.000 baht. Viste mozzafiato e una piscina infinity.
- 9 Ibrik Resort by the River, 256 Soi Wat Rakang (Molo di Wang Lang), ☎ 66 2 848 9220. 4.000 baht. Un piccolo resort di lusso con solo tre stanze private. Ogni stanza è arredata benissimo con uno stile molto chic con muri bianchi e parquet. Due stanze offrono la vista sul fiume ed è un buon modo per fuggire dalla confusione della città ed è solo a 15 minuti di traghetto dal Grande Palazzo Reale. Breakfast is included in the price.
- 10 Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoen Nakhon Road (traghetto navetta dal molo River City Pier e Sathorn), ☎ 66 2 442 2000. 5.000-10.000 baht. Albergo di lusso sul fiume con stanze con un tavolo da lavoro, un salotto, connessione internet veloce, due televisori a schermo piatto, vasca da bagno Jacuzzi una doccia a pioggia e una piscina. C'è un traghetto navetta per il molo River City e la stazione BTS Saphan Taksin.
- 11 [link not working]The Peninsula, 333 Charoen Nakhon Road (traghetto navetta dal molo Sathorn Pier e molo River City), ☎ 66 2 861 2888. 13.000-120.000 baht. Dall'altra parte del fiume rispetto al hotel Oriental ed è in concorso per diventare uno dei migliori alberghi del mondo. I prezzi sono un po' più bassi rispetto all'Oriental. Traghetto navetta gratuito per la stazione BTS Saphan Taksin e il molo River City.
How to keep in touch
Internet
Trovare un posto in cui connettersi ad internet a Thonburi non è facile in quanto l'area è soprattutto zona residenziale e gran parte dei thailandesi hanno internet a casa. Si può provare a chiedere alla gente del posto dove trovare degli internet point lungo Phran Nok Road. Uno di questi è "Corner CoffeeShop & Internet" vicino alla zona di Wang Lang.
- 1 The Corner CoffeeShop & Internet, 203 Phran Nok Road (Molo di Krung Thon Bridge, all'incrocio tra Phran Nok e Arun Amarin Road. I geodati sono approssimativi.), ☎ 66 2 411 2071. 15 baht/h. Lun-Dom 08:00-19:00. Si naviga utilizzando uno dei tre computer e si può prendere una tazza di caffê o cioccolata chiacciata con del gelato. A rovinare l'atmosfera però è la strada molto frequentata.
