Chernivtsi - Czernowitz

Chernivtsi
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Chernivtsi (Ukrainian: Чернівці,Chernivtsi; Russian: Черновцы; English: Chernivtsi; Romanian: Cernăuţi; Polish: Czerniowce) is a city in Chernivtsi Oblast in the Western Ukraine, and was the capital of the historical region Bucovina (Beech country). Together with Bessarabia in the south and Galicia in the north, this formed the border zone between the Ottoman, Russian empires and the Austro-Hungarian Danube monarchy for centuries. A battlefield for many bloody conflicts, but also a remarkable place for cultural exchange. Germans, Jews, Ruthenians, Poles, Romanians and other peoples lived here. The image of the old town is shaped by the more than 240 years of the k. U.K. monarchy, especially of buildings from the period around 1900, when the city was flourishing.

background

Central square with town hall

From 1359 to 1775 the Bukovina, and thus also Chernivtsi, belonged to the Principality of Moldova, a vassal state of the Ottoman Empire. The city was mentioned in documents for the first time in 1408, which is why the city celebrated its 600th anniversary in 2008. In the second half of the 18th century, however, the region fell to the Austro-Hungarian monarchy as the Duchy of Bukovina with the capital Chernivtsi. A result of the fifth war between the Russian and Ottoman empires.

During this Habsburg period, the city flourished, both economically and culturally. It mainly attracted Jews, liberal as well as Hasidic, when all Jewish-discriminatory laws were repealed in Bukovina in 1867. A creative multicultural mix of Jews, Germans, Romanians, Ukrainians and Poles developed in "Little Vienna", as Czernowitz was soon named. The German language was used as a lingua franca. In Czernowitz the writers Paul Celan, Rose Ausländer, Gregor von Rezzori, Alfred Margul-Sperber, Karl Emil Franzos, but also scientists such as Erwin Chargaff, Wilhelm Reich and Joseph Schumpeter worked and wrote in German, but this German-speaking cultural dominance was tolerant and did not exclude other values ​​and cultures, at the same time Chernivtsi was also a center of national movements, for example the Romanians as well as the Ukrainians. The Romanian poet Mihai Eminescu, for example, went to school here at a German high school, and the Ukrainian national poet Olga Kobylanska, she wrote her first texts in German in Chernivtsi.

With the First World War, however, the multinational Austro-Hungarian monarchy disintegrated into various national states. And Bukovina was assigned to the state of Romania in the Treaty of St. Germain. Chernivtsi renamed Cernăuţi. This Romanization was only effective to a limited extent. The second world war was more decisive. On June 28, 1940, the Soviet Union incorporated the city into its sphere of influence on the basis of the secret Hitler-Stalin pact, and the German authorities brought all non-Jewish members of the German people from Bukovina home to the Reich within three months, as agreed ".

Today Olga Kobylanska Street - formerly Herrengasse

Romania then allied itself with Nazi Germany and attacked the Soviet Union together with the German Wehrmacht in July 1941. The Romanian troops invaded the Bukovina. Just a month later, the Romanian military dictator Antonescu ordered the creation of a Jewish ghetto and the deportation of tens of thousands to Transnistria, where the majority of them perished from hunger and epidemics. When the Red Army recaptured Chernivtsi in 1944, the Romanian-speaking population had to evacuate the city and Ukrainians and Russians settled in the region. If Jews survived the years of persecution and massacres, they usually emigrated, especially to the newly founded state of Israel.

After the Second World War, the city's multiethnic and multicultural heritage was largely lost due to the extermination of many Jews and the resettlement and expulsion of Germans, Romanians and Poles. Today's Chernivtsi is a less colorful Ukrainian university town where the student youth set the tone. But if you stroll through the streets and admire the magnificent, well-kept buildings from the Habsburg era, you will always find traces of the time when this medium-sized city on the Carpathians was a cultural metropolis known throughout Europe.

getting there

By plane

1  Airport Chernivtsi (Міжнародний аеропорт "Чернівці", IATA: CWC), V. Chkalov St. 30. Tel.: 38 (03722) 4-15-30. Airport Chernivtsi in the encyclopedia WikipediaAirport Chernivtsi in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsAirport Chernivtsi (Q1708535) in the Wikidata database.

Airport code: CWC

Flights to and from Kiev with FlexFlight and YanAir. With Carpatair (Tel: (380 50) 062 6281, E-mail: [email protected]) Connections between Chernivtsi and Timisoara, Bacau, Craiova, Iasi in Romania; Florence, Milan-Bergamo, Rome-Fiumicino, Venice in Italy; Düsseldorf, Munich, Stuttgart in Germany; Chisinau in Moldova; Lviv in Ukraine

Minibus No. 38 connects the airport with the city center (1.50 UAH). A taxi ride to the center costs about 15 UAH. The price should be negotiated beforehand.

Other airports nearby: Ivano-Frankivsk International Airport (IFO) 117 km, Suceava Stefan cel Mare Airport, Romania (SCV) 69 km.

There is this in the city center

Airlines Ticket Office, Zentralplatz 7. Tel.: 38 (0372) 58-52-95.

By train

2  Central Station, Y. Gagarin St. 38. Tel.: 38 (0372) 59-21-90, 38 (0372) 59-23-02 (Ticket office).

Even if you don't want to take the train, a visit to the magnificent building is worthwhile. Austrian architects built it in 1909. There are daily connections with Kyiv (15 hours, 119 UAH), Lviv (5.5 - 11 hours, 70 UAH), Odessa (17 hours, 170 UAH). The international Moscow-Sofia line runs through Chernivtsi. And four times a week: Varna - Moscow. The schedule of the Chernivtsi station

By bus

3  Central bus station (Автовокзал "Центральний" / Avtowoksal "Zentral'nyj"), Holovna St. 219. Tel.: 38 (03722) 4-16-35.

The bus station is about 3 km from the city center on Holovna Street. There are regular buses to follow Chotyn (2 hours), Kamianets-Podilskyi (2.5 hours), Ivano-Frankivsk (4 hours) and Lviv (7.5 hours). Twice a day long-distance buses to Kiev (9 hours) and Odessa (13 hours). In the morning at 7 o'clock a bus to Suceava, (Romania).

In this bus station you will also find minibuses for various routes, which only leave when all seats are occupied

In the street

The 2300 km long European route 85 runs through the city, which begins on the Baltic Sea in Klaipėda in Lithuania and leads through Lithuania, Belarus, Ukraine, Romania, Bulgaria to the Mediterranean Sea to Alexandroupolis in Greece. Another important road connection exists towards Lviv (Lemberg) via Ivano-Frankivsk.

mobility

Since a lot of things can be easily reached on foot in the city center of Chernivtsi, buses and taxis are only needed in exceptional cases.

By bus

Trolleybuses 3 and 5 connect the main train station and the central bus station via the city center. Most of the time, however, they are overcrowded. You pay the driver or conductor on the bus. If you change, a new ticket is required.

taxi

Taxi rides within the city cost between 10 and 25 UAH. Here are some telephone numbers: Czerniwtzi Taxi 559191, Favorit Taxi 556677, Elit Taxi 545454.

Tourist Attractions

Streets and squares

Olga Kobylanska Theater of Music and Drama
  • The architectural legacy of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy in the center of the old town, on the former Ringplatz, today's Central square, is well cared for due to the 600th anniversary celebration. The three-story town hall from the middle of the 19th century, from whose tower a trumpeter "Maritschka" blows every day at 12 o'clock, crowns this harmoniously laid out square, which has had an eventful history. Where today a monument to the Ukrainian national poet Taras Shevchenko can be seen next to flowerbeds, there was a pieta, a statue of Mary, from 1922 a Romanian soldier statue as a symbol of the "reunification" with Romania and after 1940 a red Lenin monument Star. Among the houses on the square are particularly beautiful and worth seeing: the art museum in the former Sparkasse building and the former hotel "Zum schwarzen Adler", Zentralplatz No. 7, where Franz Liszt once stayed, as a plaque on the front of the house reveals.
  • A few streets further you come across the Theater square, originally Fischplatz, then in honor of the wife of the Austrian emperor Elisabethplatz and in Romanian times Alexanderplatz. The magnificent theater building with an artistic arched portal was built in 1905 as the "Czernowitz German City Theater" according to the plans of the famous Viennese architects Fellner & Helmer. But since the citizens of Chernivtsi hesitated too long to pay, these architects did not shy away from selling their building plans a second time. And so there is now an identical twin in Fürth in Bavaria Olga Kobylanska Theater of Music and Drama. Until 1922 there was a monument by Friedrich Schiller in front of the theater. Then one of the Romanian writer Mihai Eminescu. And now, from 1980, a monument to the Ukrainian national poet Olga Kobylanska. The street names behind the theater building alone are reminiscent of times gone by: Schillerstrasse, Goethestrasse.
  • Eight streets meet at the central square, including the city's promenade, the former Herrengasse, today Olha Kobylanska Street. It has preserved a closed street scene from the late 19th century to this day. The national folk houses, the so-called "doma", are particularly striking here. The German house (No. 53), where you can enjoy the best apple strudel, is diagonally opposite the Polish House, with a bust of Adam Mickiewicz at the entrance. The Ukrainian House is a little further on. Right on the central square, near the town hall, the picture of Mihai Eminescu adorns the Romanian house. And a museum was opened in the Jewish House on Theaterplatz. A positive sign that the city administration is obviously trying to maintain the cultural heritage of the people who lived together in Chernivtsi for a long time with these cultural centers.

Buildings

Jurij Fedkovytch National University, UNESCO World Heritage Site
Ceiling painting in the seminary church
  • 1  National Yuri Fedkovych University (Чернівецький університет імені Франца Йосифа), Kotsubynskogo St. 2. National Yuri Fedkovych University in the Wikipedia encyclopediaNational Yury Fedkovych University in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsNational Yuri Fedkovych University (Q1551183) in the Wikidata databaseNational Yuri Fedkovych University on FacebookNational Yuri Fedkovych University on Twitter.The central complex was originally the residence of the Orthodox metropolitans of Bukovina and Dalmatia. Erected between 1864 and 1882 by the Czech architect Joseph Hlawka. The brick building is an imposing historicizing mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The university has been located there since Soviet times. In 2011 the building complex, which includes a former seminary, a monastery and a vaulted, cross-shaped seminary church with garden and park, was included in the list of World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. The UNESCO commission recognized that the residence was "an exceptional testimony to the cultural tradition of the Orthodox Church, characterized by the use of Byzantine shapes for the cross-domed church and the decorative patterns in the roofs of the complex, which refer to the folk culture of the people of Bucovina Clues".

Museums

  • Art museum, Central square 10. Tel.: (0372) 526071. The museum was set up in the building of the former Sparkasse, one of the most architecturally interesting buildings in the style of the Vienna Secession. Erected by Hubert Gessner, who completed his apprenticeship with the famous Art Nouveau master builder Otto Wagner. The mosaic picture on the front of the building shows twelve ancient deities symbolizing the provinces of Austria-Hungary - Bukovina is depicted as a young man clad in goatskin. The museum presents the fine arts and folk art of Bukovina from the 17th to the 20th centuries.
  • Regional Museum, 28 Olha Koblianska Street. Tel.: (0372) 524489. The museum was founded in 1863. Today this museum has more than 90,000 exhibits of various types and qualities. Among other things, old prints, such as a unique Bible by Ivan Fedorov from 1581, a large collection of coins, weapons and a collection of costumes.
  • 2  open air museum (Чернівецький обласний державний музей народної архітектури та побуту), Switlowodska Street 2. Tel.: (0372) 62970. Open-air museum in the Wikipedia encyclopediaOpen-air museum in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsOpen air museum (Q12170032) in the Wikidata database.More than three dozen wooden houses from Bucovina villages have been built on the site of the museum: two windmills from the village of Rukshyn near Chotyn, a blacksmith's shop, chicken coops, wells, and horse stables. A wooden church with a bell tower from the Kitsman area. The interiors of the houses give a good impression of rural life in the 19th and 20th centuries with many authentic details.
  • 3  Museum of the Culture and History of the Jews of Bukovina (Музей історії та культури євреїв Буковини), Theaterplatz 5. Tel.: (0372) 550666, Email: . Museum of the Culture and History of the Jews of Bukovina in the Wikipedia encyclopediaMuseum of the Culture and History of the Jews of Bukovina in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsMuseum of the Culture and History of the Jews of Bucovina (Q12130618) in the Wikidata database.The museum was opened in 2008 for the 600th anniversary of Chernivtsi. The exhibition is located in the former Jewish National House on Theaterplatz. It evokes the atmosphere of the Jewish world in Chernivtsi between 1774 and 1941. The exhibits include many authentic objects from everyday Jewish life and religious practice: old books, documents, postcards, photographs. In addition, the rich cultural heritage of the Bukovinian Jews is documented here, and the important international Yiddish conference in Chernivtsi in 1908, when it came to the question of whether Yiddish or Hebrew should be the Jewish national language, is discussed. The museum also offers audio guides and a detailed brochure in German.Open: Tues-Fri 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Sat 10 a.m.-2 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.-1 p.m.

Monuments

Birthplace of the poet Rose Ausländer

Two of the most important German-speaking poets of the last century are honored with plaques on the front of the house in Czernowitz.

  • Birthplace of Rose Foreigner, Sagaydachnogo Str. 56. In this house, the young poet and her mother survived the two years of persecution during the Romanian occupation in a cellar hiding place.
  • Paul Celan's birthplace, Saksojanska St. 5. When a plaque was put up on this house, the house number was wrong. Celan was born next door, in a more modest building that has not yet been restored. Celan's parents were deported to Transnistria in 1942. His father died of typhus and his mother was shot. Celan herself survived the forced labor in Romanian labor camps.

Churches, mosques, synagogues, temples

Cathedral of the Holy Spirit
  • Cathedral of the Holy Spirit, Holovna St. 85. The cathedral was built in 1864 by the Orthodox Metropolitan Hakman, whose monument stands on the church grounds. The archbishop's crown and crosier can be seen on a blue background above the main entrance. Some of the paintings inside the classical building were lost during the Soviet era when the church was converted into an exhibition hall. The renovated cathedral is now used again for masses by the Ukrainian Orthodox Church.
Nicholas Cathedral - the "drunken church"
  • 4  Nicholas Cathedral (Собор святого Миколая Чудотворця), Russka Str. 35. Nicholas Cathedral in the Wikipedia encyclopediaNicholas Cathedral in the Wikimedia Commons media directoryNicholas Cathedral (Q16717056) in the Wikidata database.The also Ukrainian Orthodox cathedral is called the "drunken church" because of its four twisted and crooked towers, which act like an optical illusion. This cathedral is a modern, neo-Romanesque copy of a 14th century cathedral. A cathedral in Kurtja de Ardjesh (Romania), where the last Romanian kings are buried.
  • 5  Nikolauskirche (Миколаївська церква), Sahaydachni St.. Nikolauskirche in the encyclopedia WikipediaNikolauskirche in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsNikolauskirche (Q16707030) in the Wikidata database.The small wooden church is the oldest Orthodox church in Chernivtsi, it was built in 1748. At a time when the Orthodox were forbidden to build churches on the territory of the Ottoman Empire.
  • Wirmen Church, Russka Str. 28. The church is used by the Greek Catholic community. This church community maintains the Orthodox-Byzantine rite, but has been united with Rome since 1593 and recognizes the Catholic Pope as its spiritual leader.
  • 6  Armenian Peter and Paul Church (Вірменська церква (Чернівці)), Ukrainska Str. Armenian Church of Peter and Paul in the encyclopedia WikipediaArmenian Peter and Paul Church in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsArmenian Peter and Paul Church (Q12093439) in the Wikidata database.The church was built in the Byzantine-Gothic style in 1869-1875 and was used by the Armenian ethnic group in Chernivtsi until 1940. The organ concerts of the Philharmonic have been held here since 1992.
Today a cinema - formerly a synagogue
  • Benjamin Synagogue, Luciana Kobylytsja Str. 5. The small Hasidic synagogue from 1923 is the only place of worship in Chernivtsi that is still used by members of the Jewish faith. The facade combines Mauritanian and neo-Romanesque style elements. Other synagogues have been converted into a sports hall, furniture factory, or at Universytetska into a movie theater. Paul Celan once went to this building, now known as the "Cinemagoge", where Joseph Schmidt, a celebrated tenor in the 1930s, served as a "Schammes" in his childhood and sang in the choir.

activities

Festivals

  • In the sports park around the route Supercross (226-B, Ruska Street) international motocross competitions take place regularly. In May 2013 there was the Motocross World Championship for motorcycles with sidecar and in July 2013 the Motocross World Championship in the MX3 class.
  • In mid-July, 'Peter and Paul' will present themselves at the traditional Petrivka fair Artisans, so-called folk masters, from Bukovina: potters, stonemasons, weavers, pelters, glass blowers, wood carvers, etc. At the same time you can attend the festival Bukovinian meeting Watch folk music concerts and dances.
  • At the beginning of September, the city promotes its latest festival, the international poetry festival meridian the cultural and literary tradition of the city. National Ukrainian literature and international cultural exchange, especially with German-language literature, are cultivated with public poetry readings, theater performances and book publications.
  • And on the first weekend in October, the city adorns all streets and squares for mass games and the performances of variety groups and brass bands on the City festival of Chernivtsi.

City tours

  • Tourist information center, Holovna St. 16. Here you can borrow audio guides for a city tour free of charge. You have to leave a passport as security.Open: 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.
  • To the right of the main entrance of the Art museum There is a souvenir shop with a tourist office at Zentralplatz 10, which organizes guided tours in German (EUR 15 per hour).

shop

kitchen

  • Reflection, 66, Holovna St.. Tel.: 38 (0372) 526682. Good Ukrainian cuisine.
  • Viennese cafe, 49, O. Kobyljunska Str. Tel.: 38 (0372) 522-821. Coffee house with a large selection of cakes and fresh pastries.
  • Knaus restaurant, 4, Khudyakov St.. Tel.: 38 (0372) 510255. German bratwurst and German beer.
  • Potato House, 11, M. Zan'koveskoji St.. Snack with potato dishes and pancakes.Open: 10 a.m. - 10 p.m.
  • Bar Koleso, 4, Kobylyanska St.. Tel.: 38 (0372) 523700. Ukrainian and Western European cuisine.Open: 12 p.m.-10 p.m.

nightlife

accommodation

Learn

  • The Center of thought roof, 2 Kozyubynskoho Street, Chernivtsi Yuri Fedkovich University, Building No. 5, Room No. 150. Tel.: 38 (0372) 526865, Email: . was initiated by the Department of German Studies at the university and includes the “Ukrainian-German Cultural Society” and the “Center for German-Language Studies”. It offers internships for students from Germany, Austria and Switzerland in the field of German as a foreign language and in the conception and organization of intercultural and scientific projects. The minimum period for an internship is 6 weeks.

Work

security

health

Medicines are relatively cheap, they are freely sold. No prescriptions are necessary.

ambulance: Tel. 103

Practical advice

  • Main post office, Khudiakova St. No. 6.

Telephone tip: To call between Ukrainian cities, you have to dial zero and then the area code without a leading zero. To call abroad, 00 then the country code. The Chernowitz area code is: 0372 for 6-digit numbers and 03722 for five-digit numbers.

trips

  • 1  Sadohora (Садагура). Sadohora in the Wikipedia encyclopediaSadohora in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsSadohora (Q2005381) in the Wikidata database.Sadohora, now incorporated into Chernivtsi, is on the left side of the Prut, about 8 km from the old town. Sadohora was an important center of the Jewish Hasids in Bukovina. Rabbi Israel Friedman resided here from 1845 in his magnificent and palatial 'Court of Sadahora'. Only ruins can be seen today. But Friedman's tombstone, enclosed in a concrete house in the local Jewish cemetery, is still visited by Orthodox Jews from all over the world every year.
  • 2  Chotyn (Хотин). Chotyn in the Wikipedia encyclopediaChotyn in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsChotyn (Q45883) in the Wikidata database.Chotyn is on the bus route between Chernivtsi and Kamenez-Podolski, about 30 km before Kamenez-Podolski. The famous fortress of Chotyn is located about 2.5 km outside the center of Chotyn, near the Dniester River. The huge castle complex with 40 m high and 6 m thick castle walls was the scene of several important battles between Turks, Russians, Poles and Cossacks and is now a popular location for historical films.
  • 3  Kamenets-PodolskiWebsite of this institution (Кам'янець-Подільський). Kamenez-Podolski in the encyclopedia WikipediaKamenez-Podolski in the media directory Wikimedia CommonsKamenez-Podolski (Q193965) in the Wikidata database.One of the oldest cities in Ukraine, mentioned in chronicles as early as 1106. The old town is surrounded by a branch of the Smotrych River and its entrance is protected by an impressive fortress. The city experienced one of the cruellest massacres in World War II: members of the SS and a German police battalion murdered 23,600 Jews in three days at the gates of the city at the end of August 1941.

literature

  • Martin Pollack: To Galicia. From Hasids, Hutsuls, Poles and Ruthenians. An imaginary journey through the vanished world of Eastern Galicia and Bukovina, Christian Brandstätter, Vienna 1984; 3rd edition 1994, ISBN 3-85447-075-4 .
  • Peter Rychlo, Oleg Liubkivskyj: Chernivtsi, the city of literature, 2nd, improved edition. Chernivtsi 2009
  • Helmut Braun (ed.): Chernivtsi: the history of a lost cultural metropolis, Ch. Links Verlag, Berlin 2005, ISBN 3-86153-374-X .
  • Chernivtsi, former Kronstadt of the K.K. Austria-Hungarian Monarchy ”, Germany 2006, documentary film, 80 min., Producers: Reinhold Czarny - RCP and Oksana Czarny, née Nakonechna

Web links

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