Grossglockner - Großglockner

Surroundings of the Großglockner

The Grossglockner is the highest mountain in Austria. The striking black rock pyramid with double peaks lies in the Hohe Tauern and is the border summit between the federal states Tyrol and Carinthia.

places

Heiligenblut

Valley locations are:

Other goals

background

Painting "Großglockner" by E. T. Compton (1918)
Großglockner from the northeast: 1. Adlersruhe, 2. Hofmannskees, 3. Kleinglocknerkees, 4. Glocknerleitl, 5. Pallavicinirinne, 6. Kleinglockner, 7. Großglockner, 8. Glocknerkees, 9. Berglerrinne, 10. Glocknerhorn (left) and Teufelshorn (right ), 11. Untere Glocknerscharte, 12. Glocknerwand
Großglockner from the southwest: 1. Glocknerwand, 2. Untere Glocknerscharte, 3. Teufelshorn (left) and Glocknerhorn (right), 4. Teischnitzkees, 5. Großglockner, 6. Kleinglockner, 7. Stüdlgrat, 8. Ködnitzkees, 9. Adlersruhe

The Grossglockner owes its strikingly sharp-edged shape and its height to the greenish colored and weather-resistant rock Prasinit (green stone) when viewed close-up. Because of its steep flanks, there is little snow on the mountain, in the distance view the Großglockner shows itself as "Black Mountain".

A geological information point is located near the Mittertörl tunnel at 2,328 meters above sea level on the Grossglockner High Alpine Road.

The Kleinglockner is a pre-summit of the Großglockner and at 3,770 meters the third highest summit in Austria. It is separated from the main summit, 80 m away, by the Glocknerscharte, cut 17 meters.

Landowner des Großglockner and its surroundings with the Pasterze is the Austrian Alpine Association, which also created the basis for the protection of the region, it is part of the Hohe Tauern National Park.

history

The Surname des Großglockner appeared in the Middle Ages as Glocknerer or Glogger (in Kals), it is traced back to the knocking, that is the thunderous sound of falling rocks and falling ice. Another interpretation of the name is the derivation of the regular bell shape of the mountain in the view from Kals.

The first ascent of the Mont Blanc took place in 1786, at that time the Großglockner was still unclimbed and little explored. The driving force behind the development is then the enlightened Carinthian prince-bishop Franz Xaver Count of Salm-Reifferscheid (1749 - 1822), he founded a society that also aimed at scientific knowledge on the Grossglockner.

A first attempt to climb took place in August 1799 and equipped like an expedition. The group consisted of 30 people with 13 riding and pack horses and started from Heiligenblut. According to a description, the place still consisted of the "Gothic church, two brick houses and eight to twelve wooden huts with 15 cherry trees". Six men reached the Kleinglockner (3,783 m), but the main summit was still closed because of the snowfall. The Salmhütte was built by the expedition and is considered the first alpine hut in the Eastern Alps.

One follows in 1800 second expedition, 62 people are involved, including 12 "notables" including Prince Bishop Salm and his scientists and including 16 horses. The expedition started on July 26th, 1800 in Heiligenblut and reached the after two days under favorable weather conditions Eagle rest (3,434 m).

The date of First ascent is then July 28th, a summit troop from the four guides reached the main summit of the Grossglockner, they returned to the nearby Kleinglockner, climbed the summit a second time with Pastor Mathias Hautzendorfer and also set up a summit cross they had brought with them. The four local guides are referred to in the historical reports as the "Glockner", their identity is not known for sure today, the brothers Martin and Sepp Klotz and the two carpenters who erected the summit cross are named.

The expedition also provides important scientific findings: The geographical longitude and latitude of the summit were determined. With a barometer and trigonometrically, the height of 3,761 m is determined with an error value of 37 meters compared to the value known precisely today at 3,798 m. The basis for this was also series tests through melting snow, measuring the boiling point of the water, measuring the air humidity and testing the pulse and breathing frequencies. The barometer set up next to the summit cross provided data for 52 years.

The total costs of the expedition financed by Bishop Salm are estimated at today's conditions at at least 50,000 euros.

In 1856 his Majesty visited Emperor Franz Joseph I. with his wife Elisabet the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe (2,369 m), later named after the emperor. The wife only followed up to the Glocknerhaus.

The 1 Pallavicini gutter is a striking 600 m high and 52 degree steep ice gully, which leads to the two peaks on the northeast side of the mountain, it is a popular and demanding destination for experienced ice climbers.

The channel bears the name of the first climber, that was him Margrave Alfred Pallavicini, he was considered the "strongest man" at the time Vienna. This first ascent took place on August 18, 1876 with Hans Tribusser, G. Bäuerle and J. Kramser without the ice hooks invented in 1924. Pallavincini struck around 2,500 steps into the ice for seven hours to reach the summit until he was completely exhausted. This performance was not repeated until 23 years later.

In June 1886 Pallavicini climbed through the with three companions Glockner wall, that is the 3,721 m high and directly adjacent to the northwest side of the Großglockner neighboring mountain. Just below the summit, a breaking snow plow tore the rope team down into the depths. Only Pallavicini survived the fall and wandered down through the clutter of crevices. He wasn't found dead until a week later at the edge of a crevasse, one eye was knocked out and the nose was completely shattered. Pallavicini is buried on the church wall in the Heiligenblut cemetery.

The highest mountain in Austria The Grossglockner has only been since the end of the First World War: In 1919, South Tyrol became part of the 3,905 m high Ortler, which up until then was Austria's highest mountain Italy connected.

In 1961, the Styrians Gerhard Winter and Herbert Zacharias managed the first descent with firn gliders in the Pallavicini gully.

language

getting there

The journey on the Tyrolean side to Kals am Großglockner takes place via the Felbertauern route and Matrei in East Tyrol. At Huben there is a junction from Felbertauernstraße up to Kals and from Kals on the toll road to the Lucknerhaus with a chargeable parking lot. There is also a bus stop here.

The arrival on the Kärtner side takes place via Zell am See as the starting point of the Grossglockner High Alpine Road and on to Heiligenblut.

The nearest train station is in Lienz.

mobility

There are no mountain railways for passenger transport on the Großglockner or in its immediate vicinity.

Tourist Attractions

glacier

  • The 2 Pasterze With a length of around 9 km, it is Austria's largest and longest glacier and also the longest in the Eastern Alps, it is located on the northwest side of the Großglockner. To the north and below the summit is the Glockner Kees, it flows into the Pasterze. The Hofmannskees is the snow field east of the Adlersruhe, it also flows into the Pasterze.
  • The glaciers on the southwest side are the Ködnitzkees and the Teischnitzkeess.

Franz-Josefs-Höhe

The 1 Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe is about 10 kilometers from the summit in the northeast of the Großglockner, it is the end point of a cul-de-sac as a junction from the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, there is a large car park. From here, non-mountaineers have the best close-up view of the Großglockner and Pasterze with the possibility of access to the glacier. There is also a visitor center with the National park-Infocenter and several Circular routes.

activities

  • The Gamsgrubenweg is located at the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe and is a panorama trail with several tunnels and information about the glacier landscape of the Pasterze. The path takes about an hour to walk to the waterfall corner.
  • 1  Käferweg, Tauernhaus Fernleiten. Kindergarten-friendly 4km hiking trail from Tauernhaus Fernleiten. Stamp game for children at the Tauernhaus. Taxi tours possible.
  • 2  Nepomuk's path of the senses, Tourist info Fusch. 1.5km hike over the Hirzbachfall bridge, Kneipp basin, barefoot path, wood adventure path.

Climbs

All tours on the Großglockner are demanding climbs for experienced mountaineers, less experienced hikers are advised to have a mountain guide. For the long and sometimes quite exposed sections on the summit ridges and in the combined terrain of rock and ice, crampons, ropes and ice ax are essential. The mountain has up to 150 summit aspirants a day, there is lively oncoming traffic on all sections and also congestion on the more difficult passages.

The much-committed Normal way over the southeast ridge starts at the Eagle rest (3,451 m) and leads over the Glocknerleitl (snow and / or ice from 30 ° to 45 °) with some climbing points (I-II) over the sharp ridge of the Kleinglockner and the Glocknerscharte to the summit. Walking time from the Adlersruhe to the summit is one and a half to a good two hours.

Summit region on the Stüdlgart and Glocknerscharte on the right, the summit cross can be seen on the left above the two mountaineers

The rise over the Stüdlgart (Südwestgrat) is an alpine classic, because of some climbing points (II - III, key points III) it is also a lot more demanding than the normal route over the southeast ridge. This route is therefore not so crowded, but it is certainly not lonely either. The rise starts at the Stüdlhütte (2,802 m), up to the entrance to the Stüdlgrat at the Luisenscharte (approx. 3,175 m) the route is still not difficult. The ridge is then climbing and mostly ice-free to the summit. For the descent, the route of the normal route (see above) is normally used, with the corresponding obstructions from oncoming traffic. Walking time from the Stüdlhütte to the summit is around five to six hours.

The mountain is also called challenging Ski tour committed in winter. The ascent then takes place from Kals in East Tyrol and via the Lucknerhütte (2241m, only open in summer) and the Stüdlhütte to the ski depot at approx. 3,300 m before the via ferrata-like section in front of the Adlersruhe. The ascent to the summit over the Adlersruhe is done with crampons and ice ax and on foot.

  • The item Rockclimbing contains further information on the subject of mountain hiking and mountaineering;

kitchen

1  Lucknerhaus (1920 m) (Excursion restaurant at the end of the Kalser Glocknerstrasse), Glor-Berg 16, A-9981 Kals am Großglockner. Tel.: 43 (0)4876 8555.

accommodation

Accommodation in the valley please see section Localities and look up the respective locations.

1  Archduke Johann Hut (3,451 m) (Eagle rest). Tel.: 43 (0)4876 8500 (Hüttentel.). The hut, which opened on August 18, 1880, is the highest refuge in Austria, the only alpine hut of the Austrian Alpine Club Vienna (ÖAK, approx. 400 members) and a base for climbing the Großglockner via the normal route: the summit construction begins near the hut. The accommodation is named after the Styrian Prince Archduke Johann. A reservation is strongly recommended for the much-visited hut.Open: late June to late September.

Energy is generated using photovoltaics and, since 2006, a combined heat and power plant operated with rapeseed oil. Because of the location above the snow line, water is scarce and the sanitary conditions are appropriate.
Glacier experience is required for the hut ascent, the approach from the Kalser side is via the Lucknerhaus and the Ködnitzkees with a short climbing point in approx. 5 hours of walking time, from the Heiligenblut side in approx. 6 hours of walking time Franz-Josefs-Höhe over the Pasterze and the Hofmannskees.

2  Stüdlhütte (2,801 m). Tel.: 43 (0)4876 8209 (Hüttentel.). The Stüdlhütte is considered to be comfortable and spacious with good cuisine, the first hut was built in 1868, today's modern new building was built from 1993 to 1996.Open: In summer from June to the beginning of October and depending on the conditions in winter from mid-March to mid-May.

The property took its name from PragueMerchant Johann Stüdl (1839–1925), he founded the first mountain guide association in the Eastern Alps in Kals am Großglockner in 1869 and financed the way to the Glockner from the Kals side.

climate

The Grossglockner is almost four thousand meter high, the weather is high alpine with all the dangers from summer thunderstorms and possible sudden weather changes, snowfall even in summer is nothing special in the upper regions.

Because of the outstanding position of the Tauern in the Central Alps, the Grossglockner is particularly exposed to the Atlantic lows. The consequence of the north and west storage locations is large amounts of precipitation with sums of over 2500 mm per year, of which over 4 meters are snow. The statistics show 190 days of precipitation for the Großglockner.

  • Avalanche warning service for Austria

literature

  • Gerhard Karl Lieb, Heinz Slupetzky: The Pasterze: the glacier on the Großglockner. Salzburg: Blow, 2011, ISBN 978-3702506520 ; 158 p. 24.- €
  • Hans Fischer: The Grossglockner: The Book of the King of the German Mountains. Salzwasser-Verlag, 2012, ISBN 978-3864442476 ; 300 pp. € 39.90
  • Wolfgang Pusch, Leo Baumgartner: Grossglockner. Bergverlag Rother, 2007, ISBN 978-3763375097 ; 128 pp. € 29.90

cards

  • German Alpine Club (Ed.): Glockner Group 1: 25,000 Trail marking: topographic map. 2006 (9th edition), ISBN 978-3928777872 . (For mountaineers)
  • WK 122 Grossglockner, Kaprun, Zell am See 1: 50000: Grossglockner, Kaprun, Zell Am See. Freytag-Berndt, Hiking map Austria, ISBN 978-3850847131 .

Web links

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