The island of Lošinj and its neighboring island Cres were originally an island until they were near the town Osor(a former diocese) were separated by a canal in the times of the ancient Romans. The sights of the island are also highly recommended for the inclined visitor Cres to visit, which is why it is generally advisable to travel by car or plane and rent a car.
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getting there
By car
The fastest route leads over from Germany Salzburg, Graz, Villach, Ljubljana, Postojna(the cave there is worth a visit) via the border crossing at Rupa Rijeka. From there it goes over the bridge to the island Krk and then by ferry from Valbiska to Merag. Alternatively, you can go from Rijeka via Opatija drive along the beautiful Istrian Riviera and take the ferry from Brestova to Porozina. This route is only something for visitors with a lot of time and patience, especially in the main season, as the road from Porozina is largely the ancient, winding and very narrow road from the previous millennium. In contrast, the Merag route has now been almost completely rebuilt and straightened where possible.
By plane
With the plane you land on the on the island Krk located 1 Rijeka airport
(IATA: RJK). Transfer bus via Omišalj to and from Rijeka. From Omišalj there is a bus connection to Veli Lošinj.
By train
The best way to get from Germany to Munich Hbf by train is to take the night train to Rijeka in the late evening. Without changing it takes about 10 hours in a through car via Salzburg, Villach, Jesenice, Ljubljana and Sapjane to the Adriatic. Of course there is also the return trip once a day. The night train is operated by the Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB). We recommend booking a rental car from Rijeka.
accommodation
While there are practically no hotels on Cres, Lošinj has seen a tremendous boom in the hotel industry in recent years
- 5 Villa Favorita (small villa hotel), Ulica Sunčana uvala 1, Mali Lošinj.
- 7 Mare Mare Suites (Small boutique hotel, also located in the harbor), Riva lošinjskih kapetana 36, Mali Lošinj.
All hotels are fully compliant with the German 4-star or 5-star standard.
During the season, a tourist train runs regularly between the hotels and the shopping center, from where it is a short walk to the center of Mali Lošinj.
Furthermore, almost all residents of the island seem to rent at least one apartment. These increasingly correspond to the German 3-star standard and in the high season for two rooms for four people are around 65.00 EUR / day (as of 2015). This leaves enough money to enjoy dinner in one of the many good restaurants in Mali or Veli Lošinj.
Accommodation in the Bočac district is particularly recommended for apartment tourists. On the one hand, it is the closest to the most beautiful beaches Sunčana Uvala and Čikat. On the other hand, the walk to the center is comparatively short at 200-300 m. The shopping center with e.g. Lidl and dm drugstore is centrally located in the Bočac district. And here you can drive your own car to the apartment, which is unfortunately usually not possible in the more central parts of the city.
Kitchen / catering
Those who stay in the hotel do not need to worry about food. It is also very good in the hotels mentioned. However: who likes to sit at the same table every evening?
There are several supermarkets available to apartment tourists. Lidl is centrally located with its own free garage for the duration of the purchase. There is a concum in the Kalvarija industrial park just outside (Croatian supermarket chain) and Jadranka (Supermarket of the operating company, e.g. of most Lošinjan hotels). While Lidl has a lot of imported goods to offer, Jadranka in particular offers more local goods. There is a fish hall in the center itself (Ribarnica) as well as some butchers (Mesnica) and a market (Trg). The latter, however, is located a little above the center and is therefore rarely discovered by tourists.
Basically, it is advisable for self-caterers to shop at the market or even at the roadside if possible. Because regionally grown products are sold here, which firstly taste better, secondly promote the regional economy and, at the same time, contribute to climate protection. Anyone who has ever tried a tomato or watermelon grown on Lošinj or Cres will find it very difficult to get used to even the best greenhouse tomatoes from Holland. Not to mention the watermelons offered in Germany. But don't pay so much attention to the appearance when buying. After all, the fruit from the islands is a real natural product. And they naturally have visual flaws.
Wines
You don't have to "cry" in Croatia anymore. There are nowhere more these sour white wines, which were never intended as drinking wine, but were always drunk by the locals in "Gmischt" or "Spritzer" as an admixture to the water. Lošinjans refer to the wine / water mixture as "Bevanda". Which simply means "drink" in Italian. Due to a sometimes up to 50/50 division between water and wine, this is often a very sociable drink.
Self-sufficient wine lovers should unabashedly reach for the 5 liter containers in the supermarkets. These consistently contain decent everyday drinking wine of Macedonian or Croatian provenance. If the apartment landlord has contacts in Susak, then let the wine come from there. The nutmeg in particular is excellent, although for the German palate it may take a little getting used to. It is best to go to Susak yourself (more on this below) and choose your favorite wine there.
The culmination of Croatian wines is "Plavac Mali". Well developed, it can also have 16% alcohol content. A good Plavac Mali resembles a good madiran. Important: "Plavac Mali" is not always "Plavac"!
Tip: Buy and taste your way up from the cheapest. There is also much more expensive scrap on offer. But also just as good goods at comparatively acceptable prices.
Restaurants
The upscale Lošinjan restaurant cuisine is characterized by fish and game dishes. The wild asparagus that grows on the island is particularly delicate. The Istrian pršut doesn't have to hide behind the Parma ham. The cheese from the island of Pag is as little behind Manchego or young Parmigiano as the Istrian truffle behind its Italian or French counterparts. You can be sure to get this in the Bora Bar as the only tartuferia on the island. Certainly not in the "picture restaurants" either.
In Croatia you can also order red wine with the fish. Maybe not necessarily with the sea bream. But to Skampi ala Buzara for sure. And of course with every fish that is prepared with garlic, especially squid (and then also the sea bream). And it can also be drunk chilled.
There is one restaurant next to the other along the harbor promenade. Particularly recommended are - as always - those that offer tourist menus or advertise with colorful pictures. It is often worth taking a look in the second row. That's how they are
- 1 Konoba Bukaleta, Ulica Del Conte Giovanni 9, Mali Lošinj.
- 2 Za Kantuni, Ulica Vladimira Gortana 25, Mali Lošinj.
- 3 Kadin, Ulica Lošinj. brodograditelja 59, Mali Lošinj.
- 4 Janja, Artatore 132, Mali Lošinj.
- 5 Bora bar, Ulica Rovenska 3, Veli Lošinj.
definitely worth a recommendation.
A pleasant side effect: Especially in the high season, you are more likely to be among the locals here. After all, they know the beautiful harbor promenade well enough and like to leave this summer to the tourists.
- 6 Bocca Vera, Ulica Vladimira Gortana 4, Mali Lošinj. chic with a nice view of the marina.
Of course, the beach restaurants, where you can enjoy great cocktails at sunset, offer great views.
- 7 Borik, Ulica Sunčana uvala 9, Mali Lošinj.
- 8 Lanterna, Čikat ulica 24, Mali Lošinj. romantic restaurant.
- 9 Veli-Zal, Ulica Sunčana uvala. in the beautiful bay (Sunčana Uvala / Sunny Bay).
These correspond to the high standard of the hotel industry to which they are connected. In contrast to the old Yugoslavia with its so-called "Paradais tourism" (mostly self-catering) Lošinjan tourism now relies on the discerning connoisseur. Quality instead of quantity is the motto, which is increasingly being lived even on campsites.
The price structure is now accordingly. Those who only want to feed on sea bream and skampi and intend to drink closed wines will be asked to pay. If it may be Čevapčiči, anchovies or squid and the open Malvazija house wine is sufficient, it will get away much cheaper than in Italy or Spain, for example.
For true octopus lovers it is advisable to pay the surcharge for the Adriatic squid. This is significantly larger, meatier, more firm to the bite and tastes a little sweeter than the predominantly Patagonian imported goods. On the other hand: Who has ever had Adriatic squid in the store in Germany and could therefore know the difference? Therefore: try both and then decide for yourself which one you prefer to enjoy.
Of course there is also pizza, pasta and french fries. But you don't necessarily have to eat something like that on holiday in Croatia. Fortunately, there are still no McDonald's, Burgerking etc. on Lošinj.
Here are a few tips when it comes to eating:
- Čevapčiči are actually only made with onions (Kapula) eaten as a side dish.
- Almost no one eats ajvar from the locals, and neither does Djuwetsch rice. Both are not Croatian specialties.
- Grilled squid (Lignje na Zaru) should always be grilled completely, i.e. not in rings. It is served with chard and boiled potatoes as well as a mixture of olive oil, chopped garlic and chopped parsley.
- With the squid from the pan (przene Lignje) are in oil (not olive oil) fried potato slices served. Unfortunately, the gastronomy is now increasingly turning to French fries. Sauce tartar or mayonnaise are allowed as an addition.
- "Lignje na pariški način" or "Skampi na pariški način" have become rare. These are squid or scampi that have been fried in a batter. As a result, they are delicious calorie bombs. Especially since these are again served with tartar sauce or mayonnaise.
- Don't be surprised if a restaurant has wild boar (divlja Svinja) has on offer. The island is full of it, but the tourist usually does not see it. Since they have multiplied strongly, they are increasingly hunted and therefore also offered in restaurants. The meat of these animals is excellent, as they can only feed on the island's nature. In addition to many wild herbs, this also includes specialties such as pine nuts that are special for us humans.
- Parmesan is forbidden with fish dishes or seafood. Just like in Italy.
But the Lošinjans, like all Croatians, are pragmatists. The guest can therefore eat how and what he wants.
If, for example, almost mass tourism is written in a restaurant review, this is of course nonsense given the small number of hotels. But since the approximately 6,000 Lošinjan people also like to go out in the evening, there is of course a certain hustle and bustle in the first row in the high season. But you can easily escape at any time.
Excursions / sights
Veli Lošinj
1 Veli Lošinj The small neighboring town of Mali Lošinj (Klein Lötzing), which translates as Groß Lötzing, is a picturesque little harbor town with a church that is completely oversized for its size. We recommend a walk past the church along the sea to the neighboring bay of Rovenska. Maybe eat something there in the Bora Bar and then through the village back to Veli Lošinj to have an ice cream with a view of the small harbor.
Ilovik
2 Ilovik By car through the Kalvarija industrial park and from there to the left follow the road to the tip of the island (Plaza Mrtvaska). Simply dial the number of the taxi boat here (hangs out there) and a few minutes later you are on Ilovik, the flower island. Here you can walk beautifully past lavender fields, for example, or simply enjoy the shade near the small church. There are several great taverns. Those who don't necessarily need a sea view are in good hands at the Oliva, which also has an interesting selection of beers. If you have two anxious Italians on board on the way back and you can get along well with the taxi boat driver, then you should definitely say "Tutta Forza". She does it immediately with a diabolical grin.
Susak
1 Susak The only sand island in the entire Adriatic. Many excursion boats go here. On the way to the old town (Upper Town) It is worth taking a free wine tasting and perhaps taking two or three bottles of the island's wine with you. In the upper town there is a small tavern, where you can enjoy excellent squid completely away from the hustle and bustle. With two or three ice-cold tankards of Ožujsko beer and letting God be a good man. Meanwhile, women and children have fun in the shallow water of the sandy bay, e.g. with one of the pedal boats with a slide. Susak is not very busy, even in the high season.
Oh yes, please don't let yourself be ripped off by an elderly beggar at the entrance to Susak. Because when you sit in the tavern later, you may be able to watch her enjoy one or more cold beers there at your expense.
Nerezine
3 Nerezine There is hardly any tourist hustle and bustle here, even in the high season. Worth a visit to have a beer in peace on the village square. Anyone interested in boat building can have a chat with the Serbian boat builder Milenovic, who builds the Nerezine 630 here. http://www.nerezineplovila.com/
Osor
4 Osor The famous musical evenings take place here. If you look at the village today, you can hardly imagine that up to 30,000 people should have lived in the Diocese of Osor in the Middle Ages. Take a deep breath with a drink in the tiny café on the town square.
Valun
The little town 5 Valun reminds a little of the picturesque places of the Cinqueterre. Here you can dine directly on the water and take a refreshing swim on the small, well-tended beach.
Cres
6 Cres The capital of the neighboring island of Cres is a comparatively sleepy town even in the high season, which is what makes it so charming. While in July and August in Mali Lošinj you are almost annoyed as a local by the many tourists and the hustle and bustle of the evening, Cres offers peace and quiet with good gastronomy and beautiful Mediterranean architecture. A boat trip to the blue grotto is recommended. The wine is usually included in the price, as is the fresh grilled fish. On the way to the blue grotto you can already see the next destination.
Lubenice
7 Lubenice Lubenice is located high above the water and one of the most beautiful bays in Croatia (which translates as watermelons). From here you have a spectacular view over the Kvarneric. In the tiny village, which already has almost more chapels than residential buildings, you can eat excellently in the only tavern. You can enjoy a beautiful view from the tavern at the entrance to the village. The bay can be reached via a footpath. The way back is, however, physically demanding. That's why the bar at the end of the village. Otherwise many would have died of thirst here after the strenuous ascent.
Beli
8 Beli At the junction to Beli you can enjoy a wonderful view over the Kvarner with a view of the mainland. With a little luck you can see the native griffon vultures circling overhead. The route to Beli through ancient forests is a pleasure in itself. When you arrive in Beli, you should definitely visit the church square, from where you can also enjoy a spectacular view. You can eat in the tavern at the entrance to the village and a visit to the small, well-tended bathing bay with its picturesque fishermen's huts is highly recommended. Be sure to go all the way down. There you can (chargeable in the season) park.
activities
There is actually nothing that Lošinj and Cres do not have on offer. Water skiing, banana, boat rental, boat trips, sailing and motor yacht charter, scooter rental, sightseeing flights, surfing and sailing school, diving school, mountain bike rental. There is something for every taste. Hikers and passionate walkers in particular will delight in the beautiful, shady pine forests and the beach promenade, which extends from the end of the sunny bay (Suncana Uvala) leads far over the Čikat bay and is also allowed to be cycled (By the way, this promenade and the streets of the island can be explored via Google Maps). In the season in particular, however, cyclists should better stay away from the country roads, as the traffic is sometimes quite dense (practically all of them leave at the same moment from the ferry that arrives every half hour) and the many mobile homes entice locals who are knowledgeable about the road to overtaking maneuvers that seem daring for northern Europeans. Particularly heavy limousines from Zagreb or Rijeka often completely ignore the speed limits on the islands. 160 km / h on the country road are not uncommon. The islanders, however, are even more dangerous when they are in a hurry, because even with only 60 hp they overtake almost death-defyingly even just before bends. Not least because of this, Croatia is one of the countries with the statistically most road deaths. As a tourist who is not familiar with the streets, you should by no means be "infected" by the driving style of the locals.
The best time for independent beach holidaymakers is clearly September. The Italian holidaymakers are gone, the prices for fish are becoming more civil again. All hotels and restaurants are open and the water is still nice and warm, but not reminiscent of the bathtub. Water temperatures Mali LosinjThose who are more interested in hiking, walking and cycling can enjoy the tranquility and landscape of the island from April to June until the rush of tourists begins in July. Both the hotels and the campsites will be open from the beginning of April.
Practical advice
The Lošinjans and their mentality
Many Lošinjans have now arrived. There is a small Serbian minority and the gastronomy, especially in the first row, is mainly in the hands of former immigrants of Albanian origin (so-called Siptari, Skipetaren). However, these are fully integrated and have adapted to the Lošinjans. The native Lošinjans like to stay a little among each other, but are consistently hospitable. The mentality is a mixture of something like a central Italian temperament and a German sense of duty. When the craftsman says he's coming, he'll usually come too. But if you are parked for example and are in a hurry, you like to flee like a pipe sparrow. The Croatian curses are already beyond any limit for every Northern European. However, tourists will never hear this. The Lošinjans forgive almost everything towards them. Since the Lošinjans have been around since the time of the K.u.K. Monarchy deal with tourism, they speak German or at least English throughout. Italian anyway, since they were under Italian rule for a long time. Communication problems are therefore excluded.
Unlike, for example, in Italy or Spain, the author has at least never encountered rip-offs. On the one hand, this may be due to the fact that the author is a native Croatian, but it is more likely to be related to the island's tourist history. Because those who have been dependent on the income from tourism for generations, but only with comparatively few resources due to the socialist times (one or two apartments) could generate, had to offer for this individual tourism always higher standards than, for example, any interchangeable hotel castles on Mallorca.
Lošinj in a Croatian direct comparison
Basically, Lošinj in particular, due to its location far in front of the Velebit Mountains, does not suffer as much from the enormous power of the Bura. For example, if you look at the island of Pag on Google Maps, you will find that only green grows there where it is sheltered from the wind. The rest of the island is completely bare. Lošinj, on the other hand, is completely green and there is almost always a refreshing breeze blowing. Oven temperatures of over 40 degrees, such as on Pag, are hardly ever reached here. Meanwhile, Pag to the Ballermann of Croatia (Zrče) is degenerate, Hvar claims to be an upscale party island, Dubrovnik is permanently overrun by cruise tourists and Rab, apart from its beautiful old town, is reminiscent of a single new development area, Mali Lošinj has been able to retain its elegant charm. The author has been visiting the island for over forty years.
Although enormous progress has been made in the quality of tourism in the last 10 years, which is partly due to the fact that Russian investors have taken over the majority in the Jadranka Group and invested heavily, it has not yet become a luxury ghetto like in southern France, for example came. In Lošinjan restaurants the many sailors, luxury yacht owners and locals sit next to each other instead of being separated by a pseudo-elitist pricing policy so that the top ten thousand can stay "to themselves". Hopefully this will not change. The chances of this are very good because apartment tourism, which is mainly operated in the city itself, will keep both the landlord and the tenant on the ground.
