The massif of the Monte Rosa has with the Dufourspitze (4,634 m), depending on the method of counting, to have the second or third highest peak in the Alps and also the next three peaks in the order of height, that is Northrend (4,609 m), the Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m) and the Signal dome (4,554 m), are located here. Measured in terms of extent, it is the largest mountain range in the entire Alps, and in terms of number it also has most of the four-thousand-meter peaks. Over the main ridge of the massif runs the border between the Switzerland and Italy.
Regions
places
Valley locations on the Swiss side:
- Zermatt (1,608 m)
- Bag (1449 m)
Valley locations on the Italian side:
- Alagna Valsesia (1,154 m)
Other goals
background
The name Monte Rosa is derived from the Valdostan (Walser) dialect word "Roese" for glacier.
In the strict definition, the Monte Rosa is defined with the eastern peaks around the Nordend and Dufourspitze to the Balmenhorn. Seen from the south and from the Italian side, the mountains open up from the mountain huts together with the mountain ridge leading to the west from the Lyskamm to the Breithorn and up to the Theodulpass. This corresponds to the region definition according to the area guides of the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) of the Valais Alps Volume 4/5 and is also used in this article.
language
getting there
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The journey by road takes place in the north (Switzerland) via the Rhone Valley and the Mattertal in Valais and in the south (Italy) about that Piedmont and the alpine valley Valsesia.
It is not possible to cross the main Alpine ridge directly on the Monte Rosa, the next Alpine passes are the Simplon Pass in the east and the Great St. Bernhard Tunnel in the west.
mobility
Mountain railways
- The Gornergratbahn is a rack railway out Zermatt up to 3,089 m high above the Gorner Glacier and with the Kulmhotel Gornergrat, with a restaurant, observatory, shopping mall at the end of the track at an altitude of around 3,100 meters.
Tourist Attractions
Mountain peaks
Dufourspitze
1 The Dufourspitze is 4,634 m (45 ° 56 ′ 12 ″ N.7 ° 52 '4 "E) the highest peak in Switzerland. The Dufourspitze is a summit on the border with Italy: it is the highest mountain in Switzerland Dom (4,545 m), which, however, lies with its entire area on Swiss soil.
Depending on whether you are facing the south-eastern pre-summit of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4,748 m), which extends from the main summit of the Mont Blanc (4,810 m) is only slightly separate, and counts as its own peak, the Dufourspitze is also the second highest or third highest peak in the Alps (List according to UIAA).
The First ascent The summit took place on August 1, 1855 under the English, the initiative had Charles Hudson, other members in the rope team were John Birkbeck, Edward J.W. Stephenson and the brothers Christopher and James G. Smyth. The Swiss mountain guides were Johannes and Matthäus Zumtaugwald from Zermatt and Ulrich Lauener from Lauterbrunnen.
The old Walser name of the summit was "Gornerhorn" (for strong or large mountain). In 1863 the Gornerhorn was officially renamed in honor of the Swiss general and cartographer Guillaume-Henri Dufour (1787–1875), who was the editor of the first exact map of Switzerland. The name Gornergrat has remained for the mountain ridge located a few kilometers northwest of the Dufourspitze.
The Normal rise takes place from the New Monte Rosa hut (2,883 m), in addition to the extreme demands on fitness (almost 1,800 mH difference in altitude in the very thin air), the technical difficulties lie in the exposed rock and firn terrain on the long summit ridge (starts at approx. 4,300 m).
Northrend
2 The north end is at 4,609 m (45 ° 56 ′ 32 ″ N.7 ° 52 ′ 13 ″ E) the third highest or fourth highest peak in the Alps, for counting see in front. The north end is the border summit between Italy and Switzerland.
The north end is the immediate neighbor of the Dufourspitze, somewhat smaller and more inconspicuous, the two peaks are connected to each other via the degree of the Silbersattel (4,515 m). The notch height of the north end to the Dufourspitze is only 94 m and falls below the 100 m criterion in the strict sense, but because of the independent summit access, the north end is also rated as an independent four-thousand-meter peak.
The first ascent took place on August 26, 1861 by the French guide Michel-Clément Payot and the Englishmen Edward North, John Jeremy Cowell and Thomas Fowell Buxton. The company was one of the last four-thousand-meter first ascent in the Alps, the reason for this being the difficulties of the bergschrund at the end of the Silbersattel and before the actual summit. Even with today's equipment and modern crampons, this bergschrund is the most demanding place for mountaineers and, depending on its condition, can be a real challenge.
The ascent in Normal rise in WS level of difficulty is also carried out by the New Monte Rosa hut (2,883 m) and the lower part is identical to the approach to the Dufourspitze. In addition to the high demands on fitness (a good 1700 mH difference in altitude in the very thin air), the technical difficulties lie in the often icy and quite long ridge on the Silbersattel and the aforementioned bergschrund. On the summit itself, some easy climbing in the 2nd degree is also required.
The north end is also in the shadow of the Dufourspitze for mountain tourism and is therefore rarely used, the route over the glacier is often blown away and must then be found and groomed by the mountaineers themselves.
Zumsteinspitze
3 The Zumsteinspitze (4,573 m, 45 ° 55 ′ 54 ″ N.7 ° 52 '17 "E) is the third highest peak in the massif and is halfway between the Dufourspitze and the Signal dome each about 500 meters away. The connection to the Dufouspitze is the northwest ridge with the Grenzsattel (4,453 m), the connection to the Signalkuppe is the southeast ridge with the Colle Gnifetti saddle (4,453 m), the border between Switzerland and Italy runs over the summit and the connecting ridge.
The mountaineering association UIAA lists the mountain as the fifth highest independent summit in the Alps List of four thousand meter peaks in the Alps the somewhat controversial southern summit of Mont Blanc is listed as number two.
The First ascent took place very early and on August 1, 1820 by Joseph and Johann Niklaus Vincent, Joseph Zumstein, Joseph Beck, H. Molinatti, Marty and Castel and for scientific reasons: at this point in time the other surrounding peaks were all unclimbed. The mountain was named by Freiherr von Welden, Austrian general and topographer, and a colleague and acquaintance of Zumstein as an Alpine pioneer and researcher.
The mountain is in the Normal route as an addition to the ascent (or descent) to the signal summit (Cabana Margarita) quickly taken with you: ascent via the simple southeast ridge as a narrow and somewhat exposed firn ridge, the last few meters are an easy (I) climb on rocks (approx. 110 m ascent, a good half hour from the junction of the approach to Cabanna Margarita).
Signal dome
4 On the summit of the Signalkuppe (Italian: Punta Gnifetti, 4559 m, 45 ° 55 ′ 37 ″ N.7 ° 52 ′ 37 ″ E ) is the Cabana Margarita, highest hut in the Alps with the east facing balcony over the east face of Monte Rosa.
Parrot tip
5 The Parrotspitze (4432 m, 45 ° 55 ′ 12 ″ N.7 ° 52 ′ 18 ″ E) is located south of the Signalkuppe and appears from the north as an elongated mountain ridge. From the west (ascent side) and from the east (descent when crossing it) the climber experiences it as an elongated, elegant firn cutting edge.
Because of the notch heights (in the west: Piodejoch, 4283m, in the east: Seserjoch, 4296m), the Parrotspitze is one of the independent 4,000-meter peaks of the Monte Rosa massif.
The First ascent took place on August 16, 1863 by the British Florence Crawford Grove, William Edward Hall, Reginald Somerled Macdonald, Montagu Woodmass with the Swiss leaders Melchior Anderegg and Peter Perren and after a failed attempt in July of the previous year.
The summit takes its name from the Austrian general and topographer Ludwig von Weldenwho made him after the German Friedrich Wilhelm Parrot, a scientist, polar explorer and alpine pioneer. Parrot had made the first attempt at ascent as early as 1816.
The Ascent usually takes place in the course of the ascent from the south side (Gnifetti Hut) to the Signalkuppe and is rated as WS-, before the long and airy summit ridge, the up to 40 ° steep west flank has to be overcome.
Ludwigshöhe
Vincent pyramid
Balmenhorn
Considered one of the easiest four-thousanders at an altitude of 4,167 m.
Lyskamm
6 The Lyskamm, also Liskamm, is a mighty and five kilometers long ice-armored border ridge with the 4527 m high eastern summit (Lyskamm Orientale, 45 ° 55 ′ 22 ″ N.7 ° 50 ′ 6 ″ E) and the 4481 m high west summit (Lyskamm Occidentale, 45 ° 55 ′ 37 ″ N.7 ° 49 ′ 17 ″ E), according to the UIAA, the two peaks count as two separate 4000m peaks.
The front side of the Lyskamm is the north side towards the Gornergrat: the ice wall rises one kilometer above the Grenzgletscher.
The First ascent took place on August 19, 1861, crossing the ridge over the entire length is still an alpine classic today. The nickname Man eater The Lyskamm has had it since September 6th, 1877: A rope team of five mountaineers fell from the ridge, and since then there have been several other tragic accidents due to broken cornices on the ridge.
The ascent to the Lyskamm is usually from the east and starts from the Cabana Margarita (4,554 m), or from the west of Rifugio Quintino Sella.
Castor
Pollux
Breithorn
glacier
Gorner Glacier
The Gorner Glacier is around 14 kilometers long, on average one to 1.5 km wide and with its total area of 68 km² after Aletsch glacier the second largest glacier in Switzerland and the third longest glacier in the Alps. It is located on the north side / Swiss side of Monte Rosa, its beginning is at the Signal dome at an altitude of around 4550 m, it flows west towards Zermatt, its lower end, that is the glacier tongue, is currently at 2200 m.
The glacier is known for its bright white and its numerous water-filled ice tubs, which are interpreted as a sign of global warming. The largest of the glacier basins is a lake with an area of around 3.6 km².
The Gorner Glacier consists of several ice streams, the main glacier is also known as the Grenzgletscher and is the upper part at the Signalkuppe.
- The twin glacier brings its ice masses from the Castor from the south;
- The Black Glacier emerges on Pollux at an altitude of 4,092 meters;
- The Breithorn Glacier and Triftji Glacier arise on the Breithorn.
The northern boundary of the Gorner Glacier is the Gornergrat with the Gornergratbahn. The glacier with glacier tables, glacier lakes and ice tubs can be seen along the Gornergrat z. For example, you can explore a mountain hike from the Rotenboden station of the rack railway down to Zermatt without any special high-alpine knowledge.
Findel Glacier
The Findel Glacier (also Findeln Glacier or Findelen Glacier) starts at the Weissgrat (Cima di Jazzi) and is around 3,800 meters above sea level. It then flows over a length of approx. 8 km towards the west where its glacier tongue is around 2,500 m above sea level, its area covers around 19 km². The glacier tongue feeds the Findelbach.
The Gornergrat flanks the Findel Glacier on its south side, above the Gornergrat ice flows from the Gorner Glacier and Findel Glacier are connected.
Lakes and bodies of water
activities
For general information on how to behave in the mountains, equipment, etc., see the article Rockclimbing.
In summer
In the winter
The Monterosa ski area is a high reaching ski area Alagna Valsesia.
| Surname | phone | Altitude |  |  |  |  |  |  | Σ |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Monterosa ski area | 39 0125/303.111 | 1,186 - 3,550 m | 8 | 15 | 21 | 44 | 119 | 17 | 180 km |
Valley locations are Alagna Valsesia, Stafal Tschaval and Frachey, the season lasts until the end of April.
kitchen
accommodation
Accommodation in the surrounding localities see in Places section in front.
Alpine accommodations for hikers and mountaineers:
All huts are always well attended and occupied during the season, so booking in good time is highly recommended.
Since mountain railways can be used as a lift to all huts, it makes sense to check the current travel times of the railways.
1 Cabana Margarita (4,554 m, Rifugio Capanna Regina Margherita) (on the summit of the Signalkuppe). Tel.: 39 (0)163 024610, Email: [email protected]. Open: summer season from mid-June to mid-September, winter room.
The Cabana Margarita at the top of the Signal dome is the highest building in Europe; in an exposed location with its hut entrance it also has the highest viewing balcony in Europe directly above the almost 2500 mH high east face of Monte Rosa as the highest face in the entire Alps.
A first hut was built here as early as 1890, the current building still houses an observatory and a medical center for altitude-physiological research: every climber with altitude sickness is a welcome research object.
The easiest Boarding takes place from Alagna, ascent with the Punta Indren railway and via the Capanna Gnifetti. Without adequate acclimatization, an overnight stay at this hut is definitely recommended. From the Gnifettihütte on as a glacier tour to the summit of the Signalkuppe.
Swiss side
The number of accommodations on the Swiss side is quite clear:
2 New Monte Rosa hut (2,883 m, rock crystal). Tel.: 41 27 967 21 15. Open: mid-March to mid-September..
Since 2010 the new and Monte Rosa hut has replaced the "old" Monte Rosa hut, which has been blown up and is completely overloaded. The design for the hypermodern hut construction ("Öko-UFO") comes from the Department of Architecture at the ETH Zurich and others, it is an attempt to develop the complexity of high alpine hut construction in teaching and interdisciplinary with industry and the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) (further information).
The Approach to the hut takes place in summer via the Gornergratbahn with valley station in Zermatt, Get off at the Rotenboden station (2,815 m). From here a three kilometer long hiking trail leads downhill on the southern slope of the Gornergrat to the Grenz glacier, from here the path climbs as a glacier hike, crampons may be required, over the border glacier, which is mostly bleak in midsummer, to the hut (with fresh snow possibly avalanche danger!). Total approach time to the hut approx. Three to four hours.
The Winter path to the hut begins at the Stockhorn mountain station (3,405m) of the Gornergratbahn, the descent leads over the Stockhornpass (3,387 m) to the hut.
The hut is a base for climbing the peaks of Dufourspitze, Northrend and starting point for further tours into the world of the surrounding four-thousand-meter peaks.
3 Gandegghütte (3029 m, private), Riedweg 84 CH-3920 Zermatt. Tel.: 41 (0)79 607 88 68, Email: [email protected]. Open: mid-March to mid-September.. The hut was built in 1885 as a food store and primitive emergency station, it is now of tourist importance due to the ski area and is located in the far west of the region.
Equipment: 45 beds (only in summer);
The easiest way to get to the hut is with the help of the cable cars in the ski area (Matterhorn Express cable car from Zermatt via Furi and Furgg or with the gondola from Zermatt via Furi), from the Trockener Steg mountain station (2,900 m) in the ski area it is a 30-minute walk to the hut, which is in the ski area, but a little out of the way.
Tour options are the peaks of Klein Matterhorn, Theodulhorn, Breithorn, Castor and Pollux.
Italian side
In addition to the mountain huts in the high alpine area, there are also some accommodations in the regions preferred by hikers.
4 Gnifetti Hut (3,647 m, Rifugio Capanna Giovanni Gnifetti). Tel.: 39 (0)163 024610. . The hut is an important base for the development of Monte Rosa from the south side. Because of the easy accessibility by train, we recommend (at least) one night to adapt to the altitude for all summit aspirants.
Furnishing: 176 beds, winter storage with 10 beds; Take a shower.
Managed in the spring from the end of March to the beginning of May during the entire ski season, in the summer from the end of June to the beginning of September, the travel times of the lifts must be observed.
Boarding From the Aosta Valley: Ascent from Alagna by train to Punta Indren (glacier ski area) then over the ski slope and over the Indren glacier to a ledge with the Rifugio Mantova (3,498m, 45 minutes), from here in the direction of Gnifettihütte another half an hour .
5 Mantova hut (Rifugio Città di Mantova, 3,497 m, private, mountain guide from Gressoney), Garstelet, Gressoney-La-Trinité 11020, Aosta, Italy (below the Gnifetti hut). Tel.: 39 (0)163 78150. . The hut, which is comparatively comfortable for the altitude, was reopened in 1974 and extensively modernized and expanded in 2009.
Furnishing: a total of 90 places (winter room 20).
Managed (depending on the weather) in spring from mid-April to early May, in summer from July to September, see also the travel times of the cable cars.
Approach From the Aosta Valley: Ascent from Alagna by train to Punta Indren, then over the ski slope and over the Indren glacier to a ledge with the Rifugio Mantova (3,498m, 45 minutes).
6 Rifugio Quintino Sella (3,585m, Club Alpino Italiano, Biella section), Ghiacciaio del Felik, 11020 Valle di Gressoney Aosta, Italy (at the Felikjoch, south of the Csator). Tel.: 39 (0)125 366113. . The new and very comfortable hut was opened on August 29, 1981, the old hut from 1885 has served as a winter room since then.
Furnishing: 142 places in total, 25 of which are in the winter room;
Managed (depending on the weather) in spring from mid-April to early May, in summer from late June to early September, see also the travel times of the cable cars.
Approach from the Aosta Valley:
nightlife
There is no night life in the high mountains, generally hut rest is from 10 p.m., although this is not exactly seen with the huts on the Italian side.
The next real opportunities for evening entertainment are in the Valley locations, e.g. in Zermatt.
security
climate
- Alpine weather service of the PES (for the entire Alpine region).
- The Avalanche warning services:
- For the Switzerland: Tel .: 0041-848-800-187;
- For the Trentino
- For the Aosta Valley
literature
- : Monte Rosa, Queen of the Alps. Zurich: As publisher, 2009, ISBN 978-3909111688 ; 304 pages. € 39.80
- : Four thousand meter peaks in the Alps. Bergverlag Rother, 2007 (13th edition), ISBN 978-3763374274 ; 224 pages. Probably the most comprehensive presentation on the topic, correspondingly expensive as a collector's item.
Area Leader
In the guides of the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) the region is treated under group 4 (Theodulpass - Monte Moro):
- : Alpine tours in Valais. SAC, ISBN 978-3859022041 ; 544 pages. approx. € 42. The club guide covers the common routes for the entire region of the Valais Alps (groups 1 to 6).
- : Alpine guide Valais Alps 4/5. SAC, 2009, ISBN 978-3859022904 ; 656 pages. approx. € 46. The club guide covers the routes of the regions 4/5 in detail in all difficulties and in the variants.
cards
For walker
- Monte Rosa: hiking and ski tour map. Carta escursionistica, scialpinistica. 1: 50,000. 2010, Compass hiking map number 88, ISBN 978-3854913023 . 6,95 €
For climber
- Matterhorn-Mischabel 1: 50,000 sheets 5006. National map of Switzerland, ISBN 9783302050065 . approx. € 21.50. composition
- SLK 1347 Matterhorn. National map of Switzerland, 1: 25000.
