Mischabel group - Mischabelgruppe

The Mischabel group belongs to the Valais Alps and is after Monte Rosa the second highest mountain range in Switzerland. The highest peak in the mountain range is Dom (4,454 m), it is considered the highest mountain in Switzerland because it is entirely on Swiss soil.

Mischabel group from the south: Allalinhorn (left), Alphubel (middle) and Mischabel (right: Täschhorn-Dom-Lenzspitze)

Regions

As mountains in the Mischabel in the strict sense are led: Dom, (4545 m), Täschhorn, (4491 m) and Lenzspitze (4294 m).

The one immediately to the northeast of the Mischabel Needle ridge includes the peaks of Nadelhorn (4328 m), Stecknadelhorn (4241 m), Hohberghorn (4,219 m), Dürrenhorn (4034 m) as a continuous ridge and is usually also included in the Mischabel group.

The one to the south Allalin group is often seen as a subgroup of the Mischabel group, it includes the four four-thousanders Allalinhorn (4027 m), Alphubel (4,206m), Rimpfischhorn (4,198 m) and that Ray horn (4190 m).

places

In the west side Mattertal:

  • Emd
  • St Nicholas
  • Grächen
  • Matt sand
  • Larch

In the east side Saas Valley:

  • Saas-Fee (1,798 m), winter sports resort and a tourist center;

Other goals

background

The mountains of the Mischabel group are in the west of the Mattertal and to the east from Saas Valley circumscribed. One interpretation of the name Mischabel is that of "Mischtgabla", i.e. pitchfork, it goes back to the mountain farmers from Saas-Fee and the surrounding area: the sharp-edged summit ridges of Täschhorn, Dom and Lenzspitze form a striking trident when viewed. The emphasis in the pronunciation of Mischabel is on the "a": "Mischaabl".

language

Walliser German (Wallisertiitsch) is spoken in the valleys and localities on the Mischabel group, see also the article on the Valais Alps.

getting there

location
Situation map of Switzerland
Mischabelgruppe
Mischabel group

You can arrive by road via the Rhone Valley with a branch at Visp into the valley system Mattertal and Saas Valley, in the Mattertal the train goes to Zermatt.

Access from the south or direct crossing of the main Alpine ridge on roads into the region is not possible, the next Alpine passes are the Simplon Pass in the east and the Great St. Bernhard Tunnel in the west.

mobility

Tourist Attractions

Mountains and peaks

Mischabel (pitchfork): Täschhorn (left) - Dom - Lenzspitze (right), from the east

Dom

The 1 Dom (4,545 m, is the highest peak in the Mischabel group. Since it lies with its entire surface on Swiss soil, it is the highest mountain in Switzerland: the Dufourspitze is almost 90 meters higher, but it is a border summit to Italy.

To the east zm Saas Valley the cathedral does not appear to be detached between the Täschhorn and the Lenzspitze than the middle summit above the more than 1000 meter high wall of the Mischabel, also from the southwest to the Mattertal it shows itself as a rejecting rock face. The accessible side of the cathedral faces west and northwest with the Hohberg glacier and the Festigletscher, the ridge separating the two glaciers is the Festigrat.

His Names it has according to tradition from the canon of Manners (Sion), Joseph Anton Berchtold. In 1833 he was the first to undertake surveying work on the peaks of the Mischabel group and allegedly even named the whole group after his "employer".

The First ascent took place in 1858 by J. Llewellyn Davies with the mountain guides Johann Zumtaugwald, Johann Kronig and Hieronymous from Zermatt and over the northwest ridge (Festigrat).

The Ascent on the two normal routes takes place from the west side Randa (1407 m, in Mattertal), common base is the Domhütte (2,940 m). For both routes, the path from the hut via moraines and the Festigletscher to the "fork" on the Festijoch (3,723 m, 46 ° 6 ′ 5 ″ N.7 ° 50 '53 "E) identical in the transition from the Festigletscher to the Hohberggletscher. About a quarter of an hour's walk below the summit, the two routes then come together again on the summit ridge. Total ascent time from the hut for both ascent variants 5 - 6 hours and more, about half the time for the route from the Domhütte to the Festijoch.

  • The technically easier route leads from the Festijoch as a firn tour through the North flank and over the Hohberg glacier. This ascent is considered a monotonous "hatscher", but because of the numerous crevasses and a serac zone (ice fall) in the lower part of the short descent from the Festijoch, it is the more dangerous of the two normal climbs. In addition, the path with an arch in the route is the longer ascent. Classification as technical WS-, II (not very difficult).
  • The classic for climbing is the Festigrat than the route of the first to climb. It leads from the Festijoch directly as a rock ridge and later as a firn ridge; in some places, with the advanced season, blank ice is also possible to the summit, whereby one generally keeps to the left (north) of the ridge. Classification because of some climbing areas in the lower area as technical WS, II (not very difficult).

The cathedral is no longer considered an easy mountain because of the demands from its height and because of the length of the climbs as well as the overall alpine difficulties, it is also somewhat notorious because of its high altitude storms and for orientation problems on the glacier in fog or snowfall.

The route over the glacier is also done on skis, the first ascent of the cathedral on skis took place in 1917 Sir Arnold Lunn, an Indian living in London at the time, a pioneer of modern alpine skiing and the initiator of the now legendary downhill series "Kandahar Downhill". At that time Lunn was the leader of the ski pope Josef Knubel, Swiss mountaineering legend from the Mattertal.

Today, the cathedral is also partly a victim of global warming: the rock on the mountain is increasingly considered fragile, most of its climbing routes through the walls and the connecting ridges to the neighboring peaks are not only technically very difficult, but increasingly also at risk of falling rocks, they are with it objectively dangerous.

Täschhorn

2 (4,327 m, 46 ° 5 ′ 0 ″ N.7 ° 51 ′ 27 ″ E)

Lenzspitze

3 (4,294 m, 46 ° 6 ′ 17 ″ N.7 ° 52 ′ 6 ″ E)

Needle horn

Summit and Nadelgrat

4 The Needle horn (4,327 m, 46 ° 6 ′ 33 ″ N.7 ° 51 ′ 51 ″ E) closes immediately north of the Lenzspitze the Mischabel and is occasionally also added. From the north-east side, the Nadelhorn appears as a fine crag, from the south it loses its importance because it is towered over by the mighty Mischabel. The Surname is derived from a "needle hole", which is a crack in the rock a little below the summit, that of the Festijoch on the rise to Dom is clearly visible from.

The First ascent took place on September 16, 1858 by Franz Andenmatten, Baptiste Epiney, Aloys Supersaxo and J. Zimmermann as part of surveying work.

The Nadelhorn is the starting point for three striking Bone:

  • A pronounced rock ridge leads to the south Lenzspitze;
  • To the northeast, the ridge leads down to the Windjoch with the normal ascent route, over to Ulrichshorn and on to Gemshorn. This side chain was formerly known as the "Kleine Mischabel".
  • The third ridge to the northwest is the Needle ridge, an alpine classic as a crossing.

The Normal way from the base of the Mischabelhütte (3,340 m) first on a rib and onto the Hohbalm glacier (approx. 3,600 m), which is crossed. The ascent to the follows on a slope 5 Wind yoke, (approx. 3,850 m, crevices!), that is the saddle between Nadelhorn and Ulrichshorn. The name for the Windjoch is to be taken literally, it often blows more in a saddle than at the summit, walking time from the hut to here approx. 1.5 to 2 hours.

From the Windjoch, turn to the southwest (left) and climb the northeast ridge to the summit, with a few easy climbing spots at the beginning. Towards the top, the ridge becomes increasingly firnig and can be icy, and it is also cut quite sharply overall.

Allow around 3.5 to four hours for the entire ascent time from the hut. The Nadelhorn on this route is technically an easy four-thousand-meter peak (WS, II), but it has all the alpine dangers such as crevasses and a narrow, possibly icy ridge to offer: Due to the strong rush to the popular mountain, evasive maneuvers due to oncoming traffic on the The ridge has to be walked quite tightly, on the summit there is often a crowd due to the limited space.

Ulrichshorn

The 6 Ulrichshorn The Ulrichshorn (3,925 m, 46 ° 7 '4 "N.7 ° 52 ′ 36 ″ E) is the northeastern neighboring summit of the Nadelhorns, it just misses the 4000 mark and is therefore often left behind by the summit collectors. But it is an excellent mountain with a view of the whole Needle ridge and the Mischabel.

If you still have enough motivation when descending from the Nadelhorn, you can also take the Ulrichshorn with you "with your left hand": Vom Wind yoke (see Nadelhorn in front) to the left on an easy firn ridge in about half an hour to the firn summit.

Needle ridge

Hohberghorn, Dürrenhorn, Stecknadelhorn from right to left

The Needle ridge is the ridge connecting the summit of Dürrenhorn, Hohberghorn, Pin horn and Needle horn (in the following from northwest to southeast). The section to the Galenjoch north of the Dürrenhorn (3,304 m, 46 ° 7 '54 "N.7 ° 50 ′ 19 ″ E) and the southern connecting ridge to the Lenzspitze (4,294 m, 46 ° 6 ′ 17 ″ N.7 ° 52 '8 "E) are also counted. The Nadelgrat contains (at least) four official four-thousand-meter peaks, the route itself runs in large parts above the magical 4000-meter limit and has a whole range of technical and above all alpine difficulties and dangers to offer. Because of the length of the tour, there are also high demands on fitness: walking the Nadelgrat is one of the very big ridge tours in the Alps.

  • The first ascent of the 7 Dürrenhorn, Dirruhorn, 4,035m, took place on September 7, 1879 by Albert Mummery and William Penhall with the mountain guides Alexander Burgener and Ferdinand Imseng in the route over the north ridge, today's route from the Bordierhütte out.
  • The first ascent of the 8 Hohberghorn, Hohbärghorn, 4,219 m, took place on August 10th, 1869 by R. B. Heathcote with the guides Franz Biner, Peter Perren and Peter Taugwalder.
  • The first ascent of the 9 Pin horn, 4,241 m, took place on August 8, 1887 by Oscar Eckenstein (inventor of the crampons) with the guide Matthias Zurbriggen. The summit of the Stecknadelhorn is the least pronounced elevation on the Nadelgrat, but the Stecknadelhorn is also considered to be an independent four-thousand-meter peak.
Then it was still possible: Dirrujoch in 2001

The first crossing of the route from the Hohberghorn to the Lenzspitze took place in the summer of 1892 under the Engadine guide Christian Klucker (1853–1928) and from the Domhütte. The crossing of the entire Nadelgrat from the southeast, including the Lenzspitze and the Galenjoch, was carried out in June 1916 by Adrian Mazlam and Joseph Knubel, the same Mr. Knubel and together with the cartographer Marcel Kurz then climbed the entire route for the first time on October 13, 1927 Length from north to south.

Until a few years ago, a popular route variant was that of a round with a starting and ending point from the Mischabelhütte off, fork on Wind yoke and with an ascent to the Nadelgrat over the section of the approach channel from the Ried glacier to the Dirrujoch: this ascent is now taboo due to the high risk of falling rocks, today only the usual ways of crossing the mountain are possible Bordierhütte (2,886 m) to the Galenjoch and the summit sequence to the Needle horn and to Mischabelhütte, or the other way around.

For the entire length of the tour, a distance of more than 20 km should be estimated at least 15 hours. The technical difficulties are rated III- (places), predominantly II and I. The rock on the Hohberghorn is brittle and becomes stronger towards the south, but the danger of guarding increases here. There are no easy emergency descents from the Nadelgrat, so safe weather conditions are essential.

Allalin group

The Allalin group essentially comprises the four four-thousand-meter peaks in the south of the Mischabel group Allalinhorn (4,027 m), Alphubel (4,206m), Rimpfischhorn (4,198 m) and that Ray horn (4,190 m).

The Support points for tours and for climbing the peaks in the Allalin group are usually not difficult to reach from the mountain railway, the peaks themselves do not exceed the magical 4000-meter mark by too much and can generally be reached without major technical difficulties. Allalinhorn & Co. are therefore on the one hand a popular destination for less experienced mountaineers, often out and about in guided groups, and on the other hand they are also popular as an entry and acclimatization tour for more experienced mountaineers with even higher goals afterwards. However, it is often the length of the tours that has to be taken into account and the approach over the glacier, which is always cracked in summer.

Regarding the weather, the mountains are closer to the area of ​​influence of the clouds from the adjoining Mediterranean area, wisps of fog are already significantly more frequent during the day than in the subsequent northern regions.

Allalinhorn

Summit cross
Summit ridge

10 The Allalinhorn (4,027 m, 46 ° 2 '46 "N.7 ° 53 '42 "E) is the lowest and the central peak in the group named after him. There is no reliable derivation of the name, one of the interpretations is that of "Aquilina" for small eagle, a derivation is sometimes seen in Saracen Arabic, where "ala'i-ain" means source, the Arabs had in the 10th century from Spain occupied the Valais and the Aosta Valley for 50 years.

The First ascent took place on August 28, 1856, at that time the pastor Johann Josef Imseng and his servant Franz Josef Andenmatten, both from Saas Grund, led the Englishman Edward Levi Ames over the now rarely used southwest ridge from the Allalin pass to the summit.

Allalinhorn (4027 m), view of the ski area, the ascent on the normal route is from the right, the Hohlaubgrat ridge and the rock step to the left

The Normal way to the summit, thanks to the access via the glacier ski area and together with the Zermatt Breithorn, is the easiest route to a four-thousand-meter peak in the Alps and is accordingly "overrun". The starting point is the Mittel Allalin mountain station Mountain railway from Saas Fee (3,460 m), first of all there is a good piece of almost level on the ski slope and then to the Feejoch (3,826 m). From here the ascent leads through the up to 40 ° steep west flank with some crevasses (here short places up to 50 °) on possibly icy snow in places but without any technical difficulties to the summit. Total ascent time from the mountain station (570 mH) approx. Two hours, longer for the untrained and faster for the well acclimatized. Especially in good weather conditions, the route is completely overcrowded by guided and unguided and, according to the number of people, mostly large rope teams (caravan style), loneliness does not arise here.

Hohlaubgrat, above the rock step

If you want to avoid the hustle and bustle on the normal route, this is recommended Hohlaubgrat (Northeast ridge), the starting point is the Britannia Hut (3,030 m). First of all, the descent is to the south on the Hohlaub Glacier, then over this to the west and over some crevasses on the Hohlaubgrat upwards. The key point is an approx. 30 m high rock step a little below the summit (bolt, ZS), but it can also be bypassed much more easily on the right. Total ascent time for 1050 mH approx. 4 - 5 hours, descent via the normal route.

When using the term "lightest four-thousander" you should note that the word "easy" refers to a four-thousand-meter peak: In the optimal case, the weather is right, there are not too many others on the route - which unfortunately rarely happens - you are in a good mood yourself according to your fitness and acclimatization, the crevasses are clearly visible and the summit can be reached quickly and easily. But even on the Allalinhorn, fog with orientation problems, sudden weather changes or fresh snow in summer with perhaps even a blown trail are nothing unusual, physical problems with yourself, with your mountain companions or with the rope team in front of you can slow your pace sharply or even make your summit success completely impossible and you can also fall into a crevice on the Allalinhorn. Walking with crampons and on a rope is compulsory, lack of mountain experience replaces one Mountain guide.

Alphubel

Alphubel (4206 m), east side, the ascent is from the left, a little to the left of the center of the picture (in the east flank) the ski route

11 Which glaciated completely at the summit Alphubel (4,206 m, 46 ° 3 '46 "N.7 ° 51 ′ 51 ″ E) is the northernmost four-thousand-meter peak in the Allalin group. Its high plateau shows up to the east to the Saas Valley above the Feesgletschwer as a long "snow hump", to the west to Täsch the Alphubel presents itself with distinctive rock falls and pronounced ridges.

The name Hubel is derived from the Alemannic word for "hill".

The First ascent took place on August 9, 1860 by T.W. Hinchliff and Leslie Stephen, a theologian from Cambridge, with the guides Melchior Anderegg and Peter Perren on the route from Alphubeljoch over the southeast ridge.

The Normal rise takes place today in three variants with a level of difficulty comparable for all routes on the final south-east ridge:

  • Of southeast via the Metro Alpin, Mittel Allalin mountain station (Mountain railway from Saas Fee), over the Feejoch small climbing (approx. 50 mH, II) on Feechopf and then on firn to the Alphubeljoch and over the southeast ridge (up to 40 °) to the summit. Ascent a good 850 mH, total time for ascent and descent a good seven hours and more. In the advancing spring, increasing risk of crevices, orientation problems in fog.
  • Of Northeast (Mountain house Längfluh 2870 m) over the cracked Fee Glacier, endangered by guards on the southeast ridge. With almost 1,400 mH ascent in five hours and more to the summit. The route is very popular on skis in spring and in a variant through the eastern flank, ski depot on Alphubeljoch in front of the summit ridge.
  • Of the Täsch hut (2,701 m) in west Over 1500 meters of altitude as a glacier and ice tour on the Alphubel glacier to the Alphubeljoch and on the southeast ridge to the summit as with the routes above.

Rimpfischhorn

seen from the Allalinhorn summit

12 The Rimpfischorn (4,199 m, 46 ° 1 '15 "N.7 ° 53 '15 "E) is due to the length of the ascent and also because of the technical difficulties as the most demanding summit in the Allalin group, the summit offers a wide view to the southwest Monte Rosa and Matterhorn.

The First ascent took place on September 9, 1859 by the two Englishmen Robert Liveing ​​and Leslie Stephen with the guides Melchior Anderegg and Johann Zumtaugwald.

Rimpfischhorn, east face, the summit ascent is from the "back" (southwest).

A striking sign of the Rimpfischhorn is the cock's comb-like view of the east face above the Allalin Glacier, which Henry Hoeck and Franz Kostner crossed for the first time on August 13, 1906.

The Ascent to the summit starts from the Rimpfischsattel (approx. 4,000 m) in the southwest of the mountain, the saddle is either from the Britannia Hut from over the partly cracked Allalin glacier in around six hours and more, or in five hours and more from Berghaus Fluealp Can be reached via glacier and rock combined (with a short climbing section).

From the Rimpfischssattel then in another 1 - 1.5 hours (and more) to the summit, first over a firn flank and a 50 ° steep gully (firn or ice). First ascend this channel on the right and then leave it in the lower part to the left (!!). Now the real difficulties with some exposed climbs (one point III) to the pre-summit and then on the summit ridge to the summit. The various overall grading of the difficulties of WS, II ("not very difficult") can be misleading here.

Ray horn

summit

13 The Ray horn (4,190 m, 46 ° 0 '48 "N.7 ° 54 '8 "E) is still on Valais soil but in the immediate vicinity of the Italian state border. The summit has a magnificent view of the neighboring one Matterhorn and Monte Rosa to offer. Depending on how it is counted, the Strahlhorn ranks around 35th in the sequence of the highest peaks in the Alps.

A Name interpretation is the derivation of the quartz needles, called "Schtrâle" in the Zermatt dialect, which can be found in the rocks on the mountain.

Ray horn
Strahlhorn (4190 m), right Rimpfischhorn (4199 m), in between the Adlerpass, Allalingletscher

The First slope of the Strahlhorn took place on August 15, 1854 by the Englishmen Edmund J. Grenville and Christopher Smyth with the two guides Franz-Josef Andenmatten and Ulrich Lauener.

The Normal way leads from the Britannia Hut (3030 m) first to the southwest down to the Hohlaub glacier (2950 m) and via P. 3105 (on a scree shoulder) back down to the Allalin glacier. Then the ascent route leads under the east wall of the Rimpfischhorns along to the Adlerpass (3,789 m) and from here to the southeast a little steeper and the "last meters" to the summit ridge to the summit. There are no special climbing spots, the ascent is considered a WS (not very difficult). The glaciers, which are quite fissured in places, have to be considered, possible orientation problems in fog (near the main ridge!) And the long ascent time as a "hatscher" of up to 5 hours and more over approx. 1,250 mH plus the counter-ascent. The summit is therefore also more suitable as a ski tour in spring and is then quite popular.

activities

Long-distance hiking trails

  • The Haute route is the classic area crossing of the Valais Alps on skis or on foot. She leads from Chamonix above Zermatt and in the extension after Saas-Fee also through the Mischabel group.

High-altitude hiking trails

  • The Europaweg Switzerland runs in the west of the Mischabel group in Nikolaital over a length of around 35 kilometers from Grächen (1619m above sea level) over the Europahütte Europahütte (2220m above sea level) continue to Monte Rosa and after Zermatt the difference in altitude is 1,600 meters.

In summer

In the winter

kitchen

accommodation

Accommodation in the surrounding localities see in Places section in front.

Alpine accommodations for hikers and mountaineers:

All huts are always well attended and occupied during the season, so booking in good time is highly recommended.

West side

Huts above that Mattertal:

Easiest approaches: from the place Randa in the Mattertal in a total of approx. 4.5 - 5 hours via the Europahütte. In the upper part above the Europahütte there is an insured path.
Summit possibility and tours:
* The hut's local mountain is the Dom
  • 2  Europahütte (2220 m, hut belonging to the municipality of Randa). Tel.: 41 (0)27 967 82 47 (Hut). Equipment: 22 room beds, 20 mattress dormitories. Hosted: depending on the weather from mid / end of June to mid-September.
Easiest approach: halfway between Randa and Domhütte in a good two hours;
  • 3  Kinhütte (2584 m, private hut of the mountain guides from Randa). Tel.: 41 (0)27 967 86 18 (Hut). Equipment: 28 beds in the lake camp, 2 room beds. Catering: depending on the weather from the end of June to the end of September.
Easiest approach: from Randa on the Kinhüttenweg in approx. 3 - 4 hours
  • 4  Täsch hut (2,701 m, SAC Section Uto Zurich). Tel.: 41 (0)27 967 39 13 (Hut). The hut was rebuilt in 1945 and expanded in 2007/2008. Equipment: 80 mattress dormitories, 10 places in the winter room, showers. Catering: in spring April and May, in summer from end of June to end of September.
Easiest approaches: From the place Bag (1,450 m) by car on a narrow and narrow road to Täschalp / Ottawan (2,214 m) and in about 1.5 hours as an easy mountain hike to the Täschhütte.
Summit possibility and tours: In summer and spring (ski tours) the hut is the starting point for hikes in the mountains and to the peaks of the Allalin group from the west.
  • 5  Berghaus Fluealp (Fluhalp mountain restaurant, 2620 m, private), 3920 Zermatt (west of the Rimpfischhorn). Tel.: 41 (0)27 9672597. Equipment: 60 warehouses. Catering: from the end of June to the beginning of October, reservations and inquiries only by telephone.
Easiest approach: from the Blauherd station (2571 m) of the gondola from the Sunegga station (funicular from Zermatt) about another half an hour to the hut.

East Side

Huts above that Saas Valley:

The Britanniahütte ...
... and your house musician
  • 8  Britannia Hut 3030 m, Felskinn House, 3906 Saas Fee. Tel.: 41 (0)27 957 22 88 (Hut telephone). Most visited SAC mountain hut in the Alps. Equipment: 113 dormitories, 12 beds in the winter room; the hut is serviced and drained by helicopter, so running water is rationed accordingly. Hosted: from March to September; Reservations can only be made by telephone during the opening hours. -> Article Saas Fee.
Easiest approaches: approx. 45 min.walking time from the Felskinnn station of the mountain railway Saas-Fee (some light scree slopes, good footwear required);
Summit possibility and tours:
  • The Britanniahütte is generally used as the starting point (or end) of the alpine classic Haute route used to Chamonix, this is a six to ten day high alpine spring tour for ski mountaineers and is always well booked during the season
  • Allalinhorn (4027 m), degree tour over the Hohlaubgrad with a short climbing section (approx. 3.5 hours);
  • alternatively the "comfortable" and therefore overcrowded variant on the Allalinhorn: with the Metro Alpin from the Felskinn station to the ski area and then in approx. 2-3 hours (depending on acclimatization) to the summit;
  • Ray horn (4190 m) over the Adlerpass, easy glacier tour (approx. 5.0 - 6.0 hours);
  • Rimpfischhorn (4198 m), glacier tour with a climbing point on the summit (approx. 6.5 - 7.0 hours);
  • 9  Mischabelhütte (3340 m, Academic Alpine Club Zurich), CH-3906 Saas-Fee. Tel.: 41 (0)27 957 13 17 (Hut in season). Old hut since 1902 and new hut since 1975, the hut at AACZ and PDF on the history of the hut. Equipment: 130 warehouses, 40 of them in the winter room. Catering: all year round (old hut), open from the end of June to approx. Sept. 20.
Easiest approaches: from Hannig (ascent from Saas-Fee with the cable car): approx. 3-4 hours, from 2900 m the path leads over the via ferrata-like Schwarzhorngrat; From the valley only a little longer, approx. 4-5 hours;
Summit possibility and tours:
  • Nadelhorn (4327 m) about 3.5-4 hours; Pin horn (4241 m); Dürrenhorn (4035 m); Hohberghorn (4219 m); (= entire needle ridge: approx. 11-14 hours);
  • Lenzspitze (4294 m); Cathedral (4545m); Ulrichshorn (3925m) about 2-3 hours;

north

  • 10  Bordierhütte (2,886 m, SAC section Geneva). Tel.: 41 (0)27 956 23 45. Equipment: 44 storage spaces, washing facilities with glacier water, dry toilet. Catering: from mid-June to mid-September, in winter open dining room and bedroom.
Simplest Boarding: Approach via the Mattertal with a branch in St. Nikolaus to Grächen and on to Gasenried (1,659 m), from here ascent in approx. 3.5 - 4.5 hours. In the upper part, an easy glacier crossing of the Ried Glacier, suitable for families when the conditions are good.
Summit possibility and tours: the hut's local mountain Balfrin, in addition, the hut is also the starting or end point for the overrun of the Coniferous burrs.

climate

For general information, see also section Climate / Valais Alps.

literature

  • Helmut Dumler and Willi P. Burkhardt: Four thousand meter peaks in the Alps. Bergverlag Rother, 2007 (13th edition), ISBN 978-3763374274 ; 224 pages. Probably the most comprehensive presentation on the topic, correspondingly expensive as a collector's item.

Area Leader

In the guides of the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) the region is treated under group 5 (Strahlhorn - Simplon):

  • Hermann Biner: Alpine tours in Valais. SAC, ISBN 978-3859022041 ; 544 pages. approx. € 42. The club guide covers the common routes for the entire region of the Valais Alps (groups 1 to 6).
  • Banzhaf, Bernhard R. / Biner, Hermann / Burgener, Beat: Alpine guide Valais Alps 4/5. SAC, 2009, ISBN 978-3859022904 ; 656 pages. approx. € 46. The club leader deals in detail with the routes of regions 4/5 in the difficulties and in the variants.

cards

  • Matterhorn-Mischabel 1: 50,000 sheets 5006. National map of Switzerland, ISBN 9783302050065 . approx. € 21.50. composition

Web links

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