Beijing - Pechino

Beijing
北京市
Pechino - La città proibita
State
Territory
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Name inhabitants
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POSTAL CODE
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Map of China
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Beijing
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Beijing (in Chinese 北京 - romanized to pinyin as Běijīng) is the capital of the China

To know

When to go

The best time to visit Beijing is from May to mid-June. Another favorable period is from late August to early November. Winter with its cold, dry days and few hours of light is characterized by cold winds that carry sand from the nearby Gobi desert. April is the month in which sandstorms make their appearance, a real scourge. Unlike winter, summer is a wet season with rainfall concentrated in the months of July-August. During these months the thermometer remains constantly at 40 ° and the sense of heat is oppressive.

Pollution in the city exceeds the warning levels established by the World Health Organization by 5 times: the worst periods are in winter, while already with the approach of spring the situation improves considerably (see section Safety).


How to orient yourself

The center of Beijing

Tiananmen Square and in the background the entrance arch to the Forbidden City
Street in the "Hutong" of Beijing

The heart of Beijing is Tiananmen Square which with its 40.5 hectares holds the record as the largest square in the world. Its name means "Gate of Heavenly Peace" and owes it to the monumental gate on its northern side which constitutes the entrance to the "Forbidden City", the residence of the Ming kings until their dismissal in 1911.

Chang'an Avenue is the city's main thoroughfare. It crosses Beijing east-west via Tiananmen Square. The thoroughfare is lined with modern buildings, home to government and party institutions such as the "Zhongnanhai", a building complex adjacent to the Forbidden City that serves as the headquarters of the Communist Party of China. The "Great Hall of the People" also overlooks the boulevard and also in the vicinity of Tiananmen Square, which functions in a certain way as a parliament. The center of Beijing is divided into the following four sectors:

  • Dongcheng (东城 区 Dōngchéng Qū) is the district east of Tiananmen Square extended along Chang'an Avenue. There is the central railway station. Wangfujing is the name of a famous shopping street that crosses Chang'an boulevard. At the eastern end of the district is the silk market (Xiushui)
  • Chongwen (崇文区 Chóngwén Qū) is the district southeast of Tiananmen Square. It hinges on the Temple of Heaven and the park of the same name. It is the smallest of the 4 districts into which the historic center is divided.
  • Xicheng (西 城区 Xīchéng Qū) occupies the north-western sector of the center. This is where "Zhongnanhai", the headquarters of the Chinese Communist Party, is located. In Xicheng there are also the famous parks "Beihai" and "Jingshan", both accessible from the forbidden city and once reserved only for the imperial court. The area around Houhai Lake is Beijing's nightlife district while the ward around Xidan Square is a popular shopping area with many supermarkets and department stores.
The financial district of Beijing with the skyscrapers of the World Trade Center
Entrance to the Zhoukoudian cave where the Peking man was found
Structure in the Ming Tombs Park in Changping District
Section of the Great Wall in the Huairou district
  • Xuanwu (宣武区 Xuānwǔ Qū) is the southwest sector. Here is the Beijing Hutong, largely destroyed by bulldozers before the Games of the XXIX Olympiad were held. "Liulichang" is another famous district of the district. In fact, there are numerous antique and Chinese handicraft shops. In Xuanwu we visit the Buddhist temple of Fayuan and the Niujie mosque, the oldest in the city. In the district there is also the Western Railway Station (Běijīng Xīkèzhàn).

Districts close to the historic center

The districts of Beijing outside the central area proper are described below.

  • Chaoyang (朝阳 区 Cháoyáng Qū) is the diplomatic zone of Beijing 10–12 km east of Tiananmen Square. It is located close to Dongcheng, divided from it by the "Er Huan Lu", a fast-flowing road that limits the center to the east following the layout of the ancient walls of Beijing. The financial district of Beijing stretches between Dongcheng and Chaoyang and is characterized by modern skyscrapers among which the towers of the China World Trade Center stand out.
  • Sanlitun (三里屯), located just next to the main embassy area, is a place where you can find many chic restaurants and fine nightlife. The center is Sanlitun Village, a large outdoor shopping center where you can find shops such as Adidas, Uniqlo, Apple Store and luxury brands such as Armani, Dolce and Gabbana, Salvatore Ferragamo, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada and so on.
Sanlitun can be reached via Line 10 of the Beijing Metro, getting off at Tuanjiehu Station (团结湖 站) and walking east for about 200 meters. Leaving the exit A of the Tuanjiehu station it is also possible to reach the Italian Embassy in Beijing by walking for about 100 meters.
  • Fengtai (丰台 区 Fēngtái Qū) is the district just south of the center. There is the "Temple of the White Clouds" and the "World Park", a kind of Chinese Disneyland where the major monuments of the world are reproduced on a reduced scale.
  • Shijingshan
  • Haidian (海淀 区 Hǎidiàn Qū) extends northwest of the center. It includes the district of Zhongguancun (中关村 Zhōngguāncūn), the Chinese "Silicon Valley" where about forty higher education institutes are located, including the University of Peking. Tourist attractions of Haidian are the "Fragrant Hills" or Xiangshan park with its slopes covered with cypresses and pines, the nearby botanical garden with more than 6,000 species of plants and the old Summer Palace destroyed in 1860 by French and British troops.
  • Wudaokou (五道口) is the student district, near which many of Beijing's most important universities are located. We mention Tsinghua University (清华大学), Beijing University (北京大学) and Beijing Language and Culture University (北京 语言 大学), the most frequented by foreign students for learning Mandarin Chinese. Many of the inhabitants of Wudaokou are foreigners, most of them Koreans. In fact, it is possible to find numerous private schools for teaching Mandarin Chinese in Wudaokou, often attended by Korean students. Wudaokou is also a much cheaper nightlife area than Sanlitun (三里屯). The area offers discos, karaoke and cheap pubs. Given the high concentration of foreign students, all kinds of restaurants can be found in Wudaokou. There are in fact places that offer Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Italian, Spanish, Mexican and Arabic cuisine, as well as pizzerias and kebabs.
Wudaokou can be reached via Line 13 of the Beijing Metro, getting off at Wudaokou Station (五道口 站).

Peripheral districts

  • Tongzhou (通州 区 Tōngzhōu Qū) is instead a district of the south-east, about 30 km from Tiananmen square. There is the park of the Grand Canal, a real artificial river opened at the beginning of the 7th century AD. for commercial purposes. The waterway started in Hangzhou and ended in Tongzhou after a journey of 1794 km.
  • Shunyi (顺义 区 Shùnyì Qū) is north of Tongzhou, beyond the international airport. There is the Olympic Park where the rowing and kayaking competitions were held in the summer of 2008. There are also the immense spaces of the Beijing Fair, inaugurated in 2008 a few months before the inauguration of the Olympic Games.
  • Fangshan (房山区 Fángshān Qū) is famous because in the "Zhoukoudian" cave the "Peking Man", a Pleistocene fossil record belonging to a specimen of Homo Erectus that lived between 250,000 and 400,000 years ago.
  • Mentougou (门头沟区 Méntóugōu Qū) is another district west of the center extended north of the previous one and on an equally hilly and mountainous territory. There is the Buddhist temple of Tanzhe.
  • Changping (昌平 区 Chāngpíng Qū) is about 34km northwest of downtown. It is famous because in its territory there is the beautiful park with the tombs of the Ming Dynasty, much visited by tourists and included in the list of World Heritage Sites in 2003. Also in Changping is the Datangshan Museum, dedicated to the history of Chinese aviation.
  • Huairou (怀柔 区 Huáiróu Qū) is the northernmost district of Beijing and is considered the green lung of the capital. There is a section of the Great Wall about 70 km from Tiananmen Square. This section of the wall is the best preserved and is known as Mutianyu


How to get

Entry requirements

Beijing, like few other Chinese cities, allows a 72-hour stop over to visit the city without the need for a visa China. This possibility is valid only for transit flights and not for flights in which the city of departure and final destination coincide. It is also not applicable when traveling by train. The requirements are: regular final destination visa (when necessary) and a ticket certifying departure from Beijing no later than 72 hours. It is important to know that you cannot leave the city during these 72 hours. In all other cases it is necessary to apply for a visa to the Chinese diplomatic and consular authorities in the country of residence: recently the collection of visa applications in most countries has been entrusted to a private company, the Chinese Visa Application Service Center which in Italy has offices open to the public in Milan and Rome. A tourist visa (but also a student visa) typically takes a week to be issued, but all official recommendations suggest that you get there on time and go to the office with all the documentation completed at least a full month before departure. Please note that China does not recognize dual citizenship: this causes problems in all cases where a second citizenship is involved (including diplomatic and consular assistance) and in particular if one of the two citizenships is Chinese.

By plane

The cheapest way to reach the center is theairport shuttle (tel. 86 10 64594375/64594376). There are several lines that connect the airport with the various areas of Beijing. Buses depart every 10-30 minutes, and a one-way ticket costs ¥ 16. On the site is available map connections. Follow the bus signs (机场 巴士 Jīchǎng Bāshì) to take the right direction:

  • Line 1 (for Fangzhuang): 1. Liàngmǎqiáo (亮马桥); 2. Báijiāzhuāng (白 家庄); 3. Dàběiyáo (大北 窑) / World Trade Center (国贸 Guómào); 4. Pānjiāyuán (潘家园); 5. Shílǐhé (十里河) / KingWing Hot Spring International Hotel (京瑞大厦 Jīngruì Dàshà); 6. Fāngzhuāng (方庄) / Guiyou Shopping Mall (贵友 大厦 Guìyǒu Dàshà). Timetable: from 7.30 to 22.30. The stops on the way back are 6, 3 and the airport. Line 1 is recommended for those traveling to the southeast of the city.
  • Line 2 (for Xidan): 1. Sānyuánqiáo (三元桥;) 2. Dōngzhímén (东直门); 3. Dōngsìshítiáo Bridge (东四十条 桥); 4. Xīdān (西单) / Civil Aviation Building (民航 营业 大厦 Mínháng Yíngyè Dàshà). The stops on the way back are 4, 2 and the airport. Timetable: from 7.00 until the last flight. Line 2 is recommended for those heading to the south-west of the city.
  • Line 3 (for Beijing Railway Station): 1. Yuyang Hotel (渔阳饭店 Yúyáng fàndiàn); 2. Dōngdàqiáo (东 大桥, bypassed after 22:30); 3. Cháoyángmén (朝阳 门); 4. Yǎbǎolù (雅宝 路); 5. Beijing Railway Station (北京 站 Běijīng zhàn). Timetable: from 7.30 until the last flight. At the moment the train station stop is located at the west exit of the International Hotel (国际 饭店 Guójì Fàndiàn), across Chang'an Avenue. The stops on the way back are 5, Dōngzhímén, the Jingxin Building West Gate (京 信 大厦 西门 Jīngxìn Dàshà Xīmén) and the airport. Line 3 is recommended for those traveling to central and southeast Beijing, and to the districts of Chaoyang, Chongwen and Dongcheng.
  • Line 4 (for Gongzhufen): 1. China International Exhibition Center (国际 展览 中心 Guójì Zhǎnlǎn Zhōngxīn); 2. Xībàhé (西坝河); 3. Anzhen Bridge (安贞 桥 Ānzhēnqiáo); 4. Midian Bridge (马甸 桥 Mǎdiàn Qiáo); 5. Běitàipíngzhuāng (北 太平 庄); 6. Jimen Bridge (蓟门桥 Jìmén Qiáo); 7. Friendship Hotel (友谊 宾馆 Yǒuyì Bīnguǎn); 8. Beijing TV Station (北京 电视台 Běijīng Diànshìtái); 9. Zizhu Bridge (紫竹桥 Zǐzhú Qiáo); 10. Hangtian Bridge (航天 桥 Hángtiān Qiáo); 11. Gongzhufen (公主坟 Gōngzhǔfén) / Xinxing Hotel (新兴 宾馆 Xīnxīng Bīnguǎn). Return stops are 11, 7, 5, 3 and the airport. Hours: from 7.00 to 23.00. Line 4 is recommended for those traveling to the north and north-west of the city and the Haidian district.
  • Line 5 (for Zhongguancun): 1. Wàngjīng (望京) / Huājiādì (花 家 地); 2. Xiǎoyíng (小 营); 3. Asian Games Village (亚运村 Yàyùncūn) / Anhui Bridge (安慧 桥 Ān huìqiáo); 4.Xueyuan Bridge (学院 桥 Xuéyuàn qiáo); 5. Zhongguancun Bridge No. 4 (中关村 四号 桥 Zhōngguāncūn Sìhào qiáo). Return stops are 5, Beijing Air Force University North Exit (北航 北 门 Běiháng Běimén), Huixin West Street (惠 新 西街 Huìxīn XīJiē) / Anhui Building (安徽 大厦 Ānhuī Dàshà), Huixin Dongjie (惠 新 东街 Huìxīn Dōngjiē) / SINOPEC (中国 石化 集团 Zhōngguó Shíhuà Jítuán) and the airport. Timetable: from 8.30 to 21.30. Line 5 is recommended for those heading to the north of the city, especially the university district in Haidian.

Public bus # 359 leaves the airport for Dongzhimen, where there is metro station 2 and 13, but it is not a fast and convenient connection.

Numerous hostels and luxury hotels have shuttle services. Find out in advance if your hotel also offers this type of service.

It is also possible to use the AirportExpress train, which for ¥ 35 (payable with the prepaid metro card or single tickets) will take you from the Beijing-Capital Airport to the Dongzhimen and Sanyuanqiao metro stops, connected to the rest of the network. .

On the train

Beijing has several train stations. Most trains arrive at Central Station or West Station.

Beijing Central Station in the Dongcheng District


How to get around

The city is huge and even metro rides can easily take an hour.

By public transport

By metro

Beijing: current state of the transport network

The metro is an excellent way to get around quickly. There are currently 13 lines in Beijing:

  • Line 1 connects the Pingguoyuan industrial area in the west with Sihui East in the east of Beijing. It has 21 stops and follows the main street Chang'an Dajie. It connects Xidan, Tian'anmen East and West, Wangfujing, Dongdan, Guomao and Yong'anli. Line change stations are Fuxingmen (Line 2), Jianguomen (Line 2) and Sihui / Sihui East (Batong Line).
  • Line 2 follows the 2nd Ring Road. The most interesting stop is Qianmen. The change stations are Fuxingmen (Line 1), Jianguomen (Line 1), Xizhimen (Line 13) and Dongzhimen (Line 13).
  • Line 13 from Dongzhimen via Huilongguan to Xizhimen. The exchange stations are Xizhimen and Dongzhimen (both Line 2).
  • Batong line connects the east area, from Sihui to Tuqiao. The exchange stations are Sihui and Sihui East (both Line 1). This line is not very useful for tourists.
  • Another 7 lines were built for the 2008 Olympic Games.

The entrances to the metro are identified by a large blue letter B and a small letter D.

THE tickets they can be bought at the counters (the staff rarely speak English). Remember that if you want two tickets, don't indicate using your thumb and forefinger (it would mean 8 and not 2) because in China the numbers shown with your fingers have different meanings: for two tickets, use your index and middle finger (which has no meaning in Chinese and therefore, when used by a Westerner, it is easily understood as "2") or little finger and ring finger (the conventional symbol used in China for "2").

Tickets for Line 1 and 2 cost ¥ 3 and the exchange between these two lines is included in the price. For Line 13 the cost of the ticket is ¥ 3 and for the Batong Line it is ¥ 2. If you need to make an exchange from Line 13 or Batong Line take the ticket for this combination (Lines 2 and 13 costs: ¥ 5, Line 1 and Batong costs: ¥ 4). For more complicated journeys with a greater number of changes (and especially after the Olympics, when the metro system has been significantly expanded) keep in mind that the number of lines you use counts more than the distance traveled.

All lines use magnetic tickets.

There is also a new system of prepaid tickets (一卡通 Yīkātōng). The card costs ¥ 20 and all rides cost ¥ 3. It can also be used for bus ticket reductions. The ¥ 20 is a deposit that you can get back, together with the residual credit: the only obstacle is to be told in which station and which counter of the single station the service is offered.

By bus

The bus network covers the whole city and is cheap, but unfortunately it is difficult to use it if you don't understand Chinese. The bus conductors speak bad English and only some lines in the city center indicate the name of the stops in English as well. If you know a minimum of Chinese or if you have a sense of adventure, then the bus can take you to any place and even if you happen to be in the wrong place you may discover something interesting to see: a good way to discover parts of the city that are not normally visited by tourists.

GoogleMaps also supports searching for public transport transfers in all major Chinese cities. If you have a Chinese SIM and internet on your smartphone (still relatively expensive if you also want 3G and not just GSM / EDGE), venturing on a bus is no longer an impossible thing. The stops, however, are not always exactly where indicated by GM, so it takes a little inventiveness when looking for the stop and alertness (to get off at the right place).

On the occasion of the 2008 Olympics, the new buses will start to circulate, equipped with air conditioning and heating in winter, TV, displays with Chinese writings and voice warnings on stops. The telephone number for Beijing public transportation information is (96166).

Attention: buses can be very busy so keep an eye on your valuables. Unfortunately, pickpockets are frequent on buses and the metro, so it's best to keep your backpacks in front and put your valuables in hard-to-reach pockets.

Beware of anyone offering you bus tours to the Great Wall, masquerading as a real tour vendor. Instead of taking you directly to the Wall, they will divert to decadent theme parks, tourist shops, museums etc. and only at the end of the day will you reach your destination.

Bus numbering

Buses are numbered from 1 to 999. Buses under 300 serve the city center, while those with higher numbers connect the center with outlying areas. Buses from 900 upwards connect Beijing with "rural" districts (Changping, Yanqing, Shunyi, etc.) which are not considered to be part of Beijing.

An excellent map of the entire network is only available in Chinese on the website of the Beijing Public Transport Company where you can find limited information even in English. By typing in the departure station and the destination it is possible to have the list of bus routes.

Timetables

Many buses with numbers below the number 200 operate from 5.00 to 23.00. Buses from 300 onwards run from 6.00 to 20.00-22.00, while buses from 200 to 300 are night buses. The peak times when the buses are very crowded are from 6.30 to 9.00 and from 17.00 to 19.00. On the days of major holidays, more frequent trips are added on many routes.

For passengers paying in cash, tickets for Lines 1 to 199 cost ¥ 1 for one day. Lines 300 to 899 cost ¥ 1 for the first 12 km to which ¥ 0.5 is added for every 5 km more. Tickets for air-conditioned buses (800 to 899) start at ¥ 2. The cost of the night bus ticket (from 200 to 299) is ¥ 2 per day.

For passengers paying with the new prepaid ticket system (yikatong): Lines 1 to 499 cost ¥ 0.40 per day, lines 500 to 899 have a 60% reduction. There are also tourist tickets valid for 3, 7 and 15 days.

By minibus

Minibuses are a very common means of transport in suburban areas. They work privately and the cost for a short day is ¥ 10 while for a long day just a little more.

By taxi

Taxis are a very efficient and economical way to get around Beijing. Pay close attention to taking an authorized taxi (they are two-colored: they always have a yellow stripe and the second color varies between green, red and blue depending on the company) and make sure that the taxi driver activates the meter and issues the receipt. Authorized taxis, in addition to their colors, can be recognized because the first two characters of the license plate are 京 (like all license plates issued in Beijing) and B (specific for taxis). The illegal taxis do not have the "right" colors (the name of "black cab" is not only metaphorical) and have a normal license plate number (often, in an attempt to hide this irregularity, the drivers of the black cab remove the license plate directly from the car). The use of unauthorized taxis exposes you to inflated prices and, not infrequently, to robberies. Similarly, even with legal taxis, only the use of a taximeter protects you from scams. As an example, arriving by plane at terminal 2 (terminal 3 is more modern and for this reason there is greater attention from the authorities in contrasting illegality) of the Beijing-Capital airport, the queue for taxis seems "managed" by uniformed individuals who speak relatively good English and who will ask you for the destination: they will enter it into a computer and communicate a price, often inflated by 200%. By ignoring them and getting directly into a taxi (taxi drivers, in fact, do not seem to be complicit in this particular scheme) you will pay the correct fare. Even the offers negotiated in advance with the taxi driver are usually very inflated. A one-hour ride between the airport and the city costs around RMB 100. Excluding the rides to the airport, the rule of thumb is 1 minute = RMB 1 (the real fare scheme is a little more complex, but this is a good approximation that already takes into account traffic jams and waits). For very short journeys a minimum price applies. Keep in mind that taxi drivers do not speak English, so it is always good to print the destination address in Chinese: most hotels are able to help you, calling the taxi via radio and communicating the destination via radio or giving you a note with the instructions for the taxi driver (and, printed on the back, the address of the hotel for the return journey).

By car

A Chinese driving license is required to drive a car in China: neither an international driving license nor a foreign driving license is accepted. Hotels often offer rather expensive chauffeur services.

By bike

Recommended only if you have a mask (or if the air is exceptionally clean that day) and if part of the journey is within university campuses, public parks or other areas closed to traffic. Traffic in Beijing is very aggressive and in general it is essential to maintain a very high level of attention: it is not uncommon to see U-turns, risky maneuvers and overtaking, pedestrians crossing without looking in the middle of the ring road. Pay particular attention to the fact that the Chinese do not seem to use rear-view mirrors when overtaking (this also applies to public service buses), but they often start the maneuver without looking and continue it unless someone honks. Invest RMB 10 more and buy yourself a bell and lights to attach to the bike. On the other hand, in many highways there is a lane reserved for bicycles, also used by mopeds, rickshaws and motor tricycles. These, by the way, are among the most dangerous vehicles and with the most reckless drivers.

What see

  • Main attraction1 Forbidden City (故宫 Gù Gōng). It is accessed from one side of Tiananmen Square. Few interiors can be visited, with the exception of the exhibition (with separate ticket) on the watch collection. It deserves more than half a day, so it is advisable to start the visit in the morning (the complex closes at 5 pm and certainly the afternoon alone is not enough) and bring something to eat and drink. The many guides around the palace can make you skip the long lines for a few euros: some, both to save money (i.e. to increase your margin) and because they are actually less popular parts of the city, let you enter through a secondary entrance and visit only one of the smaller "castles" among the many in which the Forbidden City is divided. If you have time, insist that he take you to the Hall of Supreme Harmony as well. Keep in mind, on the other hand, that the most popular parts are also invaded by tourist traps such as street artists disguised as "Emperor of China" who make and sell Chinese calligraphy artifacts according to the traditional method.
  • 2 Tiananmen Square (天安门广场 Tiānānmén Guǎngchǎng). It is the largest square in the world. It is often possible to see children playing with traditional Chinese kites, as well as parades of schoolchildren in uniform, and provincial Chinese on vacation who will look at you as if you were aliens, often even trying to touch you or asking you for photos together (not to be confused with those who will instead ask you some money to photograph yourself in front of the famous portrait of Mao, often recognizable by signs or by the fact that they are alone). At sunset you can watch the changing of the guard and the lowering of the large Chinese flag that flutters in front of the entrance to the Forbidden City.
Temple of Heaven
  • 3 Temple of Heaven (天坛 Tiāntán). It includes numerous temples with a round plan (as opposed to the square plan typical of military establishments as well as the Forbidden City), immersed in a vast park, which among other things includes a number of sacred plants, such as the Tree of the Nine Dragons, in front of which it is not uncommon to see people stretch out their hands, to take the energy that they radiate.
  • 4 Summer Palace (颐和园 Yíhé yuán).
  • Lama Temple (雍和宮 Yōnghégōng).
  • Scented hills (香山 Xiāng Shān).
  • Beijing Zoo (北京 动物园 Běijīng Dòngwù Yuán). Little cared for, but it allows you to see some Panda specimens.
  • Beihai Park (北海 Běihǎi). It contains a large white stupa and a lake where you can rent water lily boats.
  • Prince Gong's Mansion (恭王 府 Gōngwáng Fǔ).
  • Botanical Garden (北京 植物园 Běijīng Zhíwù Yuán).
  • Hutongs (胡同 Hútòng). Old traditional districts of Beijing at risk of gentrification are worth a visit.
  • Military Museum of the Chinese People's Revolution (中国 人民 革命 军事 博物馆 Zhōngguó Rénmín Gémìng Jūnshì Bówùguǎn).
  • Chinese Aviation Museum.


Events and parties


What to do


Shopping


How to have fun

Shows

  • Chaoyang Theater, 36, North East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang. Acrobatic shows.
  • Tiandi Theater, No.10 Dongzhimen Nandajie, Dongcheng. Acrobatic shows.

Night clubs

  • Sanlitun (The Village, SLT), The Village, Chaoyang District (Metro 10, Tuanjiehu station, and approx. 300 meters to the west). Ecb copyright.svgvaries by place. Simple icon time.svgEvery day, from 6 to 4 in the morning. Sanlitun, an area of ​​Beijing, is home to "The Village" (famous shopping mall) and the renowned "Barstreet," where you can bring friends or acquaintances for a few beers, shots or cocktails. There are also many other sources of entertainment (restaurants, cinemas, cafes, etc.). Inside The Village there are places that are a bit more expensive (a beer varies from 30 to 60 yuan), but as soon as you come out of the shopping center, like for example in barstreet (you can ask anyone in The Village, everyone knows where è), you will find much cheaper prices (a beer will cost you from 5 to 15 yuan).


Where to eat


Where stay

Moderate prices

  • Far East Youth Hostel, Tieshu Xie Jie 113 (Metro station: Heping Men). Comfortable singles and doubles at competitive prices able to rival those of the medium category. Avoid the rooms located in an annex overlooking an internal courtyard, although cheaper. The ones in the central building are far better

Average prices

  • City Central Youth Hostel (Chengshi Qingnian Jiudian) (In front of the train station. Metro stop: Beijing Zhan), 86 10 6525 8066.
  • Gu Xiang 20, 20 Nanluoguxiang Hutong (25 minutes from Tiananmen Square), 86 10 6400 5566. Opened in 2007, the hotel has 28 attractive rooms decorated in traditional Chinese style. Those from the 3rd floor upwards are preferred, with balconies and panoramic views over the rooftops of the surrounding old houses. Satellite Tv. Free internet access via wi-fi.
  • Bamboo Garden Hotel (Center, district of Gulou). Pleasant hotel built according to the canons of a classic Chinese garden with pavilions immersed in bamboo groves and connected by winding paths. The restaurant serves Cantonese cuisine.

High prices


Safety

In termini di crimini violenti ai danni dei turisti Pechino è più sicura di quanto ci si aspetterebbe (per lo più grazie alla politica di tolleranza zero da parte delle autorità, decise a punire con estrema severità i crimini violenti in generale e in particolare quelli che danneggino la reputazione della Cina come destinazione turistica), ma questo è compensato da un alto numero di crimini minori. Una truffa molto diffusa vede una persona molto distinta e che parla un buon inglese invitare i turisti a mangiare in un ristorante (complice), con la promessa di pasti gratis o di forti sconti: dopo il pasto, ci si vedrà presentare un conto nell'ordine delle svariate centinaia di euro (ovviamente del tutto sproporzionato rispetto al valore del cibo consumato) e il rifiuto di pagare può portare a pestaggi o al furto di oggetti di valore. È triste da dire, ma con l'eccezione di zone molto turistiche e frequentate dagli occidentali (per esempio il quartiere universitario di Wudaokou o la zona delle discoteche e delle ambasciate Sanlitun) il fatto che qualcuno parli un buon inglese è da interpretare come un campanello d'allarme. Aspettatevi poi che anche negozianti onesti parlino inglese finché non vi convincono a comprare e poi, al momento del pagamento, si "dimentichino" sia di parlare inglese sia degli sconti concessi.

Il pagamento con carte di credito non è diffuso e spesso è limitato al circuito nazionale cinese UnionPay (che non riconosce Visa, MasterCard o American Express). Questo costringe a portare sempre con sé del denaro contante, anche se per fortuna è relativamente facile trovare sportelli bancomat. A riguardo, due sono le avvertenze:

  • Attenzione alle banconote false, le più diffuse sono quelle da 100 Yuan; ci sono stati casi di tassisti compiacenti (pare sia ancora più comune nei black cab) che, ricevuto un centone autentico come pagamento, fingono di cercare il resto e poi "restituiscono" il centone, stavolta falso, sostenendo di non avere resto e chiedendo di pagare con un taglio più piccolo. Il problema maggiore è che una volta giunti in possesso di un falso è molto difficile sbarazzarsene, perché la maggior parte dei negozi nelle zone turistiche ha un apparecchio che verifica l'autenticità del contante. Rivolgersi in banca o alla polizia porterà solo al sequestro del contante, e quindi non recupererete il valore perso.
  • Attenzione alle truffe sui bancomat, come telecamere, sensori e altri trucchi per carpirvi il PIN o per sottrarvi direttamente il contante prelevato. Oltre a controllare accuratamente il terminale e i dintorni, è consigliabile usare i bancomat delle banche maggiori (Bank of China, per esempio) e possibilmente quelli dotati di "cabina", in modo che non possiate venir borseggiati mentre prelevate. Verificate con la vostra banca il limite giornaliero di prelievo e ricordate che, pure con una struttura di commissioni diversa e non sempre conveniente, anche i maggiori circuiti di carte di credito (Visa, MasterCard e American Express) permettono di ritirare contante scalandolo dal normale plafond. Il vantaggio è che tipicamente le carte di credito mettono a disposizione sistemi più sofisticati di protezione rispetto a un normale bancomat, come l'avviso via sms in caso di spese e prelievi superiori a certe somme, oltre che un'assicurazione degli acquisti che a volte copre anche i prelievi di contante non autorizzati.

L'operato delle forze di polizia non è sempre improntato a trasparenza. Gli arresti arbitrari sono comunque limitati a casi di truffe organizzate con la connivenza della polizia: verrà inscenata una rissa prendendo di mira un occidentale ubriaco, ci sarà l'intervento della polizia e l'occidentale verrà trattenuto finché non pagherà, oltre alla multa (di solito l'arresto è formalmente valido e accompagnato da una denuncia), un "sovrapprezzo" agli agenti. La generalità dei turisti, comunque, viene lasciata in pace, anche col diffondersi della consapevolezza che la crescita economica della Cina e la sua uscita dall'isolamento dipendono anche dall'afflusso di stranieri.

Altro discorso vale per i "turisti" che si facciano sorprendere in atti "sovversivi" o a connotazione politica: va ricordato che la repressione è molto pesante e ci sono regole ferree a riguardo. Si noti, innanzi tutto, che il visto (anche turistico) per la Cina è concesso sotto l'espressa condizione che il viaggiatore non si impegni in attività politica (la cui definizione è intenzionalmente lasciata vaga e aperta a interpretazioni). Le conseguenze includono tipicamente almeno il fermo di polizia e un processo (che per questo tipo di reati è decisamente lontano dai canoni occidentali), e non si può contare di cavarsela con la semplice espulsione.

Pechino, in quanto capitale, è anche considerata ad alto rischio di terrorismo (interno, per lo più legato a gruppi separatisti delle regioni più periferiche della Cina), quindi le misure di sicurezza sono particolarmente rigide (il che, peraltro, aumenta il livello di protezione generale dai crimini violenti).

Se non risiedete in un hotel, dovete registrare la vostra presenza presso la polizia entro 24 ore da quando vi stabilite e ogni volta che rientrate in Cina, anche se con lo stesso visto e senza cambiare indirizzo: la prima volta dovrete recarvi alla stazione di polizia con il contratto di locazione (se siete in affitto) o con il padrone di casa (se siete ospiti) e il vostro passaporto, le volte successive basta portare il passaporto e la ricevuta di registrazione che vi è stata data la volta precedente. Poiché questa registrazione va effettuata alla stazione di polizia di quartiere, dove è ancora meno probabile trovare qualcuno che parli inglese, è consigliabile comunque che almeno la prima volta il padrone di casa venga con voi, nel caso dovessero sorgere problemi.

Gli stranieri, tecnicamente, sarebbero obbligati a portare il proprio passaporto sempre con sé. Finché rimanete in città e non vi cacciate in guai seri, però, è sufficiente avere addosso una fotocopia del passaporto, compresa la pagina su cui è incollato il visto cinese. Per semplici controlli a campione è facile che gli agenti si accontentino della fotocopia. Se invece aveste piccoli problemi con la legge o doveste fare una denuncia, dovreste riuscire a convincere gli agenti ad accompagnarvi in albergo per prendere il vero documento (che potrete così lasciare al sicuro in cassaforte). Paradossalmente, è invece fondamentale avere con sé il passaporto originale per usi meno ufficiali, come cambiare soldi in banca o, se siete in Cina per uno scambio culturale, registrarvi come studente straniero all'università.

La situazione sanitaria è ben lontana da quella occidentale e gli ospedali pubblici, oltre ad avere livelli igienici visibilmente bassi, sono anche stati coinvolti in gravi scandali: alcuni anni fa standard sanitari particolarmente carenti nelle campagne di donazione del sangue hanno portato a un'epidemia di AIDS. La qualità dei servizi migliora esponenzialmente rivolgendosi a strutture private, che a Pechino sono numerose: a fronte di cifre considerevoli, verrete curati secondo gli standard occidentali. È fortemente consigliabile disporre di un'assicurazione sanitaria che copra, oltre ad alti massimali, anche il rimpatrio d'emergenza per motivi sanitari.

In Cina l'acqua di rubinetto non è potabile, e Pechino non fa eccezione: i bicchieri di acqua calda serviti in alcuni locali contengono almeno acqua di rubinetto bollita (e quindi sicura) o acqua minerale scaldata. Quanto alla sicurezza del cibo, la città di Pechino ha istituito un sistema di controllo degli esercizi commerciali: tutti i ristoranti devono esporre un cartello che indica la valutazione del livello igienico, dove A e B sono tipicamente adeguati, mentre C è a rischio. Se rimarrete in Cina abbastanza a lungo imparerete a superare la diffidenza e a mangiare anche nei posti meno "splendenti" (escludendo quelli classificati al livello igienico C) e tipicamente rivolti ai Cinesi.

Come detto, l'inquinamento a Pechino raggiunge livelli estremamente alti, facilmente pari a tre o quattro volte quelli ammessi per legge in Italia. È consigliabile dotarsi di mascherine con filtro antiparticolato di tipo FFP2 o FFP3 (si tratta di uno standard per l'antinfortunistica industriale, per altre denominazioni assicuratevi che filtrino adeguatamente il PM 2.5). In Italia si possono comprare nei negozi di materiali per la manutenzione della casa (come EuroBrico o Leroy-Merlin) o nei grandi magazzini di apparecchiature per aziende e cantieri, nel settore antinfortunistica; alcune farmacie le hanno o le possono ordinare. In Cina, la maggior parte dei supermercati e tutti i Seven-Eleven vendono svariati modelli con diverse tecnologie: le più affidabili sono le 3M. Può essere utile sapere anche che

  • Poiché il vento dominante a Pechino è il maestrale (Nord-Ovest) proveniente dalle montagne, nei giorni ventosi i quartieri di Nord-Ovest (il distretto di Haidian, peraltro di interesse per i turisti) sono i primi a ricevere aria pulita. Una passeggiata nel giardino del Palazzo d'Estate in un giorno ventoso darà adeguato sollievo ai vostri polmoni
  • Tra i vari tipi di precipitazione, solo gli acquazzoni abbassano adeguatamente il livello di inquinamento, mentre la pioggia leggera non ha effetti
  • Il sito internet aqicn.org, in inglese, fornisce dati aggiornati e dettagliati sul livello di inquinamento di moltissime città della Cina, con spiegazioni dettagliate sul significato degli indicatori e una guida all'uso delle mascherine
  • Le mascherine chirurgiche not filtrano affatto l'inquinamento: in Cina sono usate estensivamente o per proteggersi da malattie infettive (tema sul quale molti paesi asiatici sono molto sensibili) o, per ignoranza, nella convinzione che proteggano dall'inquinamento

Numeri utili

  • Polizia: 110
  • Vigili del Fuoco: 119
  • Pronto soccorso: 120
  • Ambasciata Italiana in Cina (意大利驻华大使馆 - Yìdàlì zhù huá dàshǐ guǎn), 2, San Li Tun Dong Er Jie - 三里屯东二街2号 - Sānlǐtún dōng èr jiē 2 hào (Beijing), 86 10 8532 7600, fax: 86 10 6532 4676.


How to keep in touch

Post office

China Post è l'ente statale delle poste. Ha sportelli anche all'aeroporto di Pechino-Capitale, dove il personale parla un discreto English. Le cartoline (in entrata e in uscita) impiegano anche un mese e mezzo ad arrivare.

Internet

Sfortunatamente, per via della censura del web in Cina, molti siti internet "occidentali" come Facebook, Twitter o YouTube, non funzionano. Nonostanteciò, Skype e Viber funzionano senza problemi. La connessione internet non è sempre a banda larga in tutti gli hotel o hostel, ma troverete sempre cafè, bar o ristoranti che vi forniranno con una connessione. Basta chiedere "wifi" ai commessi o ai camerieri, e vi forniranno il nome della rete e la password. Se volete continuare a utilizzare i siti bloccati, munitevi di un account e di un software di Virtual Private Network, o VPN. Una rapida ricerca su internet vi darà una lunga lista di servizi, gratuiti (tipicamente con limiti di traffico mensili) e a pagamento (tipicamente per un numero maggiore di dispositivi, per smartphone e senza limiti di traffico). Nonostante sia un modo di eludere la censura, l'uso di VPN non è illegale: ogni tanto le autorità scoprono e bloccano qualche server usato da questi servizi, ma (salvo quanto detto riguardo attività politiche e considerate "sovversive" dal governo) non arrestano nessuno per aver usato un VPN.

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