The Ruta Nacional 40 is the longest national road with 5,224 km Argentina and a popular itinerary. It begins on the southern Atlantic coast and then runs along the edge of the Andes. In the process, deserted areas, but also the densely populated metropolitan areas, are being converted Mendoza and San Juan crossed. The route ends in La Quiaca on the border with Bolivia.
Dealing with the entire road, which leads through many different climates and landscapes, is still a challenge today, even if you can count on an off-road vehicle. The asphalting of the entire route is far from complete. In addition, due to construction work to renew the asphalt surface, it may also be necessary to drive parallel to the actual roadway on gravel (such sections can be 10-20 kilometers long).
background
The Ruta 40 was once the connecting route of the few places in the strategically important border region to Chile. It is now an internationally popular travel route and is also marketed by the Argentine Tourism Secretariat. Usually, however, only part of the route is used. This is no wonder considering the extent of the route, but also because the route is sometimes very difficult to drive on. This is one of the highest road passes, the Abra del Acay, on this track. There are also four-lane and motorway-like sections in the central, densely populated part around Mendoza.
The road has been relocated several times over the years. In the north there is even a dispute as to which of the gravel roads there actually got the name Ruta Nacional 40 should wear. In the south, a 100 km long section between Cabo Vírgenes and Río Gallegos is missing. Therefore, the southern end point is currently given as Punta Loyola, a small port near Río Gallegos.
preparation
You should plan at least two weeks for the entire route (it can be done in 8-10 days for those in a hurry, but only if nothing comes of the way), if not more, if you really want to enjoy the route. Anyone who wants to master the most difficult part of the Abra del Acay cannot avoid an all-terrain vehicle, but there are also alternative routes in this area that can be driven normally. In winter, despite the dry climate, parts of the road can become impassable due to snow and ice, also after rainfall in summer. So spring and autumn are ideal as travel times.
getting there
Depending on the direction from which you want to tackle the road, there are several approach points. So only the start and end point are described here, otherwise also comes Mendoza in question. Here the road is to be described according to the official mileage count from south to north.
- Punta Loyola, a small port at Río Gallegos, which otherwise offers itself as a southern starting point, is a little off the main route on the Patagonian Atlantic coast. Arrival is via the Ruta Nacional 3which begins in Buenos Aires and is completely tarred, but partly heavily traveled. Distance Río Gallegos - Buenos Aires: 2587 km, plus 37 km to Punta Loyola.
- La Quiaca is about the the Ruta Nacional 9 or the Ruta Nacional 34 reached, both are expanded to four lanes in sections, but mostly busy, two-lane highways. From Bolivia you can also come across the recently tarred one Ruta Nacional 14 of Potosí out to La Quiaca. Distance La Quiaca-Buenos Aires: 1830 km via the RN 9/34.
- San Carlos de Bariloche is the start for those who want to drive part of the RN 40 (for example towards Patagonia) from southern Chile. From Osorno you can get there via the Paso Internacional Cardenal Antonio Samoré to Argentina.
Here we go
(Cabo Vírgenes) - Punta Loyola - Río Gallegos
- Length: effective 37 km, after completion 137 km
- Status: Up to Punta Loyola planned, then tarred.
The first section from Cabo Vírgenes to Punta Loyola is currently (early 2011) not yet completed. Therefore currently applies Punta Loyola as the official starting point of the road. The small town houses a small harbor and some industry, and you can also visit a Norwegian wreck.
If you still want to get to know the cape, you can reach Cabo Vírgenes via a gravel road from Ruta Nacional 3. This is where the Strait of Magellan begins, at the cape itself there is a lighthouse and border installations to Chile.
Río Gallegos - Charles Fuhr (- El Calafate)
- Length: 460 km
- Status: Gravel to 28 de Noviembre, then tarred to Tapi Aike, gravel to RP 5, tarred to Calafate.
- Alternative: Ruta Provincial 5 Río Gallegos - El Calafate, completely tarred.
After the Ruta 40 overlaps for 35 km with the Ruta Nacional 3, it turns west and follows the valley of the Río Gallegos. About 235 km further, near the Chilean border, you get to the metropolitan area around the city Río Turbio. The largest coal mining site in Argentina is located here, but production has declined since the 1990s, causing the city a severe economic crisis and emigration. After the small town 28 de Noviembre the road turns to the north, where it then joins the Ruta Provincial 5 and joins this up Charles drove overlaps.
Detour El Calafate / Los Glaciares
El Calafate is still 32 km further west, but is the only larger town in the region and therefore the best alternative for an overnight stay. The city is the starting point for Los Glaciares National Park with its glaciers and mountain forest landscapes. The entire route to the national park is paved.
Detour to Torres del Paine
From Río Turbio you can go to Chilean Puerto Natales drive and there the world-famous national park Torres del Paine with its snow-capped pinnacles.
Charles Fuhr - Perito Moreno
- Length: 656 km
- Status: Tarred to Tres Lagos, then> 70 km of gravel, then tarred (gravel section currently being expanded).
- Alternative: Between the Lago Cardiel and Riera there is an abbreviation that used to belong to the RN 40 and that saves almost 50 km. This dirt road leaves Gobernador Gregores out, but the road across the city is already tarred.
After Calafate, the route leads along the eastern shore of Lake Argentino, the second largest lake in Argentina, and then bypasses Lake Viedma, the third largest lake, to the north. A tarred cul-de-sac branches off to the north of this lake El Chalten from. In the small village Tres Lagos you should definitely fill up, because the most deserted stage of the route follows. The private petrol station (slightly more expensive than the (semi) state YPF petrol stations), located a little outside the town at the junction with RP 31, is open from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.
The route now runs through the Patagonian Meseta. Short green valleys alternate with rough steppe vegetation and flat with hilly terrain. You should make provisions for breakdowns, because you will hardly come across other cars. The only place that matters Gobernador Gregores with about 3,000 inhabitants and a gas station; but it is mostly bypassed. 150 km further north is in Bajo Caracoles (100 inhabitants) another small supply post. Perito Moreno after all, is a small town with around 4,000 inhabitants that offers all the necessary services. For example, if you are traveling between San Carlos de Bariloche and Los Glaciares National Park, you can spend the night here pretty much in the middle of the route. There are three hotels right next to each other on the main street. The place also offers a few restaurants, a bank branch, a small supermarket and a petrol station.
Detour National Park Perito Moreno
The Perito Moreno National Park can from Tamel Aike can be visited, but it only offers rudimentary infrastructure. It offers an untouched landscape of lakes and forests at the foot of the Andes and is arguably Argentina's loneliest national park. 89 km off the RN 40.
Detour Cueva de las Manos
From Bajo Caracoles you can see the Cueva de las Manos visit, the most important archaeological site in Patagonia. The cave got its name from the hand drawings, but there are also other cave paintings to visit. 44 km off the RN 40.
Perito Moreno - Esquel
- length: 512 km
- Status: tarred
- alternative: Old route 1S40 Río Mayo to José de San Martín, gravel, closer to the Andes.
According to Perito Moreno, the landscape remains largely deserted. But already in Río MayoAfter 110 km, the first town appears and with it the asphalt again, after that it becomes livelier little by little. Small towns follow José de San Martín, Gobernador Costa and Tecka, all of them little or not at all discovered by tourism - but Tecka in particular also has scenic attractions to offer. About the Welsh place Trevelin eventually becomes the city Esquel - with 40,000 inhabitants, the largest since Río Gallegos. Despite fewer sights, the city is an attractive stopping point due to its very beautiful location in the Voranden and the diverse activities in the area (hiking, mountain biking, winter sports).
Those who prefer a more natural route can use the old route, the one today 1S40 is called over Alto Río Senguer to take. The biggest attraction on this route is the Lago Fontana mountain lake.
Esquel - San Carlos de Bariloche
- Length: 283 km
- Status: tarred
Probably the most touristic part of the southern Andes is located between Esquel and Bariloche. The landscape is characterized by dense forests and many lakes. El Bolson is the only place of importance on the route. The former hippie colony is a popular destination for nature lovers. San Carlos de Bariloche on Lake Nahuel Huapí, on the other hand, has developed into a big city full of hustle and bustle. The Nahuel Huapí National Park is the most visited national park in Argentina.
San Carlos de Bariloche - Chos Malal
- Length: 585 km
- Status: tarred
After Bariloche, the road first bypasses the Nahuel Haupí lake and then moves away from the Andes. The landscape turns back into the steppe of Patagonia. The Lanín National Park can be reached on a detour. The only larger city is directly on the route Zapala (40,000 inhabitants), which is embedded in sandy hills. At Chos Malal the road approaches the Andes again. The city itself is not very spectacular, but has some historical buildings and is ideal for excursions into the mountain landscape.
Detour to San Martín de los Andes
The popular travel destination is 70 km west of the road San Martín de los Andes, a town nestled harmoniously in the mountains on Lake Lácar with 30,000 inhabitants, and the best starting point for the Lanín National Park. You have to contribute to it La Rinconada Turn west after Bariloche.
Chos Malal - Malargüe
- Length: 334 km
- Status: Tarred up to the border to Mendoza, then asphalt remains to Malargüe.
After Chos Malal a lonely stage begins again, the road is in bad condition in parts. The volcanic and steppe landscape of this region has hardly been developed for tourism and offers numerous attractions such as the Tromen volcanowho have favourited the huge sinkhole Pozo de las Ánimas and the nearby ski resort Las Leñas as well as the salt lake Laguna Guayatayoc. Only Buta Ranquil and Barrancas are to be mentioned as places, both small country towns with less than 3,000 inhabitants. The town Malargüe itself offers quite good accommodation options.
Malargüe - Mendoza
- Length: 350 km
- Status: Tarred to El Sosneado, then earth road to Pareditas (alternative recommended), then tarred, four-lane expressway from Ugarteche.
- Alternative: Section between El Sosneado and Pareditas on the RN 144 and 143, tarred.
The road crosses the steppe-like landscape and then turns into the valley of the Río Atuel one that after San Rafael leads, the second largest city of Mendoza. The Ruta 40 bypasses this city and its metropolitan area, however, on a bad dirt road. Those who do not have an off-road vehicle are better off with the alternative route via San Rafael.
Behind San Rafael you can see the typical landscape of the Cuyo, a series of flat steppes and green, densely populated oases. From Ugarteche (behind Tunuyán) the road has four lanes and announces the arrival in Mendoza which, with its numerous suburbs, has a population of around one million and is a center of viticulture. Mendoza is also the starting point for the highest peaks in the Andes around the Aconcagua, America's tallest mountain.
Mendoza - San Juan
- Length: 165 km
- Status: Tarred. Four lanes to Las Heras, then two lanes to Va. Media Agua, then four lanes again to San Juan.
The short section between Mendoza and San Juan is quite well developed, but also very busy. There are no special attractions on the route if you come from the sandy desert near Mendoza Lavalle apart from being the only desert of its kind in South America. Also San Juan is an oasis city that lives mainly from the agro-industry.
San Juan - Chilecito
- Length: 409 km
- Status: Tarred.
- Alternative: RN 150 / RP456 / RP491 Niquivil - Huaco via San José de Jáchal, tarred.
After the oasis of San Juan, the road runs through a dry, hilly landscape. 130 km north of the provincial capital will be the second largest oasis in the valley of Jáchal reached. However, the road bypasses the city San José de Jáchal. If you want to visit the quiet city with 20,000 inhabitants, you can do so with practically no loss of kilometers via the RN 150 and then return to the RN 40 again via the RP 456 and RP 491, the route joins again at Huaco.
In the province of La Rioja is located at Villa Unión (5 km north) the first place of importance and starting point after Talampaya (see below). The following section is available as a Cuesta de Miranda known and runs above a spectacular gorge. After a few small towns Chilecito reached, the tourist center of the province and with 30,000 inhabitants the largest city on the northern part of the route. There are numerous attractions in the area: old villages, rock formations and one of the highest mountain railways in the world, which has, however, been closed.
Detour Talampaya
In the province of La Rioja there is now the near the road Talampaya National Park, in which curious rock formations and paleontological excavations can be visited. To do this, drive from the intersection of the RN 74 at Villa Unión about 70 km south to the Puerta de Talampaya. If you really want to get to know the park, you have to join a guided tour (for a fee), places are limited in the main season.
Chilecito - Belén / Londres
- Length: 218 km
- Status: Tarred.
North of Chilecito, the road first leads through the valley between the Sierra de Velazco and Sierra de Famatina, the highest mountain range of the Sierras Pampeanas, above. In the north of the province of La Rioja the valley goes into a large steppe plain, the Campo de Belén, above. On the northern edge of this level lies Londres, the second oldest city in Argentina after Santiago del Estero. The very quiet and natural place has two city centers, but only a few historical buildings have survived. The one just a few kilometers further Belén offers better accommodation options. It is considered the center of weaving.
Belén / Londres - Santa María del Yocavil
- length: 172 km
- Condition: Tarred.
A very attractive section follows: Immediately behind Belén a ravine is crossed, after which the valley widens again. A worthwhile stopping point is Hualfín in the midst of red-colored cliffs, with 3,500 inhabitants also a well-known destination for local tourism. The road meanders up to over 2,200 m above sea level and then slowly descends into Valle Calchaquí, one of the highlights of the route. About 15 km before Santa María the settlement begins to become denser again, small charming places follow until Santa María del Yocavil, the largest town in the valley, is reached. Although it hardly offers any historical buildings, it has a spectacular location and numerous archaeological excavation sites in its vicinity.
Santa María del Yocavil - Cachi
See also the detailed guide Valle Calchaquí
- Length: 235 km
- Status: Gravel to the border to Tucumán, then tarred to San Carlos, then gravel.
- Alternative: RP 357 on the section between Santa María and Quilmes, tarred.
The most famous part of the Valle Calchaquí, a high valley at an altitude of 1,700 to 2,000 m, begins behind Santa María. Numerous attractions can be found within a few kilometers. A worthwhile little detour leads to Amaichá del Valle, an Indian commune with 4,000 inhabitants and one of the largest museums about local culture. They are only a few kilometers to the north Quilmes ruins, arguably the best preserved pre-Columbian city in Argentina.
Cafayate is the tourist center of the region and a center of viticulture. The Quebrada de Cafayate Worth a little detour. Behind Cafayate the road becomes lonely again. You cross numerous small towns where colonial architecture has been preserved, such as Molinos and San Carlos. Finally will Cachi, reached the center of the northern valley. It impresses with its well-preserved center and offers several accommodations, despite the only 2000 inhabitants.
Cachi - San Antonio de los Cobres
- Length: 145 km (via Abra del Acay), alternative route around 100 km longer.
- Status: Tarred to La Poma, then difficult to negotiate and sometimes impassable due to the weather.
- Alternatives: See below.
The most difficult section of the road begins behind Cachi. First it goes leisurely uphill in the valley to La Poma. Then the road becomes narrower and significantly steeper. An all-terrain vehicle is strongly recommended, and the road can become impassable both in summer after rain and in winter when ice and snow. It meanders in serpentines up to the Abra del Acay, the highest road pass in Argentina and one of the highest on earth. The top of the pass is reached at 4,895 m. Then it goes down on a better road to after San Antonio de los Cobres. The town of 3,000 people, shaped by mining, is one of the poorest in Argentina and is the supply center in one of the most deserted areas of the country, west of Salta.
Detour Salta / alternatives to the Abra del Acay
There are two possible alternatives to the cumbersome Abra del Acay:
- You can already choose the fast route via the capital Salta in Cafayate. To do this, take the RN 68 through the Quebrada de Cafayate. In El Carril or Salta, turn onto the RN 51 to San Antonio de los Cobres.
- Or you take the in Cachi RP 33, known as Cuesta del Obispo. This road leads past an attractive gorge, but is generally easy to negotiate, even in winter. In El Carril or Salta, take the RN 51 here as well.
Both roads are about 100 km longer than the direct route and lead through the provincial capital Salta (500,000 inhabitants), which, with its historic old town, is one of the best preserved colonial cities in Argentina.
San Antonio de los Cobres - La Quiaca
On the last piece, the decision is still pending as to which street will finally be named Ruta Nacional 40 will wear. Three variants are therefore briefly described here.
Option 1: Old route via Abra Pampa
- Length: 290 km
- Status: Graveled to Abra Pampa, then tarred.
The original Ruta 40 (until 2005) initially leads north on a today Ruta 1V40 called street and then over the Puna to the city Abra Pampa with 10,000 inhabitants. It then overlaps with the RN 9 bis La Quiaca. It is the shortest variant, but it is unlikely that it will be resumed as the "official" Ruta 40.
Variant 2: About Cobres
- Length: approx. 360 km
- Status: Gravel to Santa Catalina, then tarred
This route is favored by the province of Jujuy, but has not yet been completed - there are alternatives for the gap, however, and in contrast to variant 3, it is in an acceptable condition. It leads from San Antonio to the north on the Ruta 1V40 (see variant 1). Then you have to follow the RN 52 in the absence of a direct road Susques to take. From there the road continues to the north, through numerous small Puna villages, including with Mina Pirquitas the highest town in Argentina at 4,271 m altitude - as the name suggests, a foundation as a result of mining.
On the last stretch, the road bends again to the east just before the Bolivian border, until finally with La Quiaca the northernmost major city of Argentina and the end point of the route is reached. A possible detour (10 km north on a passable gravel road) is the small village Santa Catalina, the northernmost town in Argentina, with a colonial church from the 17th century.
Option 3: Through the west of Salta
- Length: 380 km
- Status: Gravel in poor condition to Susques, then easily navigable gravel to Santa Catalina, then tarred
This route, now the "official" Ruta Nacional 40, is favored by the Province of Salta, which wants to develop the western part of the province with it. It first leads from San Antonio, overlapping with the RN 51, west towards Chile and then turns north. The condition of the road is very bad up to Susques, an all-terrain vehicle is highly recommended. Variant 2 is reached in Susques.
security
Apart from the already described difficult sections of the route, on which it is best to travel in an all-terrain vehicle and even better in a convoy, there are no particular safety problems on the route. Street gangs, as they can sometimes be found in remote parts of Brazil, are unknown here - they also exist in Argentina (so-called piratas del asfalto - asphalt pirates), but they operate almost exclusively on the busy routes of Central Argentina and are very rare, their destinations are almost exclusively trucks.
It is advisable, especially in the Patagonian section, to use every petrol station to fill up the vehicle. On the one hand, it cannot be guaranteed that fuel will be available at every petrol station approached; on the other hand, vehicles with all-wheel drive and the often strong headwinds take their toll on fuel consumption.
trips
If you want to continue traveling after the entire route:
- In the south-north direction described, it makes sense to continue to Bolivia. The one in the border town Villazón subsequent route Ruta Nacional 14 to Potosí was tarred in the late 2000s. From Potosí you can easily reach all the sights of Bolivia, and die-hard South America freaks then continue to Peru or Brazil. It should be noted that Carnet de passage in Bolivia; the exhibition at the border usually takes several days, which is why you should get it beforehand.
- In north-south direction offers itself fire land with the attractive Tierra del Fuego National Park with its wet forests and lakes as well as the city Ushuaia at. The south too Chile is worth visiting.
