Sarek - Sarek

The Sarek is a national park in Swedish part of Lapland. It forms together with the national parks and nature reserves Muddus, Stubba, Sjaunja, Stora Sjöfallet, Padjelantaˈ and Tjuolda the UNESCO world heritageLaponiaThe Sarek National Park is a mountainous landscape, which - atypical for the other mountain peaks carved by Ice Age glaciers - comes up with rugged peaks up to over 2000 m.

location
Lagekarte von Schweden
Sarek
Sarek

background

The Sarek was created in 1909 at the instigation of the Swedish geographer Axel Hamberg (1863-1933) declared a national park. Axel Hamberg has systematically researched it for almost 40 years and thanks to his efforts the untouched natural landscape was saved from falling victim to the exploitation of the hydropower companies. The Sarek is still one of the reindeer herding areas of the Seeds. The routes used by the Laplanders for this purpose naturally lead through accessible valleys in this alpine region. The classic ways lead through that Njoatosvágge, the Guhkesvágge, the Ruohtesvágge and Guohpervágge. Rapadalen is not suitable for this because of its difficult accessibility, e.g. through extensive virgin birch forests.

The Sarek was long considered last wilderness of Europe. That stamp is still on him. In accordance with the wish of the national park administration to preserve this alpine mountain landscape in its originality, there are - in contrast to other national parks and reserves - no accommodations and no marked paths to minimize the number of annual visitors by not offering amenities hold. There are also only a few bridges that were primarily built for the needs of the Sami. At times, the area map BD10 became the Nya Fjällkartan (Topographic map 1: 100,000) even erased the trails that have existed for decades.

landscape

The Sarek has an area of ​​approx. 1,970 km² and is home to 200 mountain peaks with a height of over 1,800 m as well as about 100 glaciers. Some of Sweden's highest mountains, over 2,000 m high, can be found here, ranging from square to circular with a diameter of around 50 km. The landscape is varied and offers deeply cut valleys, rugged mountain ranges and glaciers as well as one or the other plateau.

Numerous streams cut the landscape. The spectrum ranges from rivulets and brooks to raging streams (e.g. Rapaätno, Kukkesvaggejakka, Vuojatätno). Since there are only a few bridges in the Sarek National Park, there is often a need to wade through watercourses.

The soil conditions are also different. Above the tree line (over approx. 700 - 800 m) there are relatively seldom sections with soft grass growth, but extensive scree fields of all grain sizes are all the more common. Willow belts act as a middle thing on damp ground, the crossing of which is extremely strenuous due to the stubborn branches. Above 1000 m there are only stones. In the forest belt there is lush flora: ferns, flowers, grasses that overgrow the stony ground and successfully cover tree roots like holes. Dense birch forest rises above everything, which is difficult to penetrate without a discernible path and with a lot of luggage.

The lowest heights in the valleys are around 400 m above sea level. NN.

Flora and fauna

climate

Midnight sun

"As Midnight sun the sun is referred to when it is still visible in areas north of the north and south of the Arctic Circle in summer, even at the time of the lowest point of its orbit in the sky (midnight) ”(Wikipedia article: Midnight Sun).

The brightness of the “night” is a very special experience that leaves an impression. The novel "Pan" by Knut Hamsun begins with the following line: For the last few days I have thought and thought of the northern summer's eternal day.

Thanks to the earth's inclined axis in relation to the plane of the earth's orbit, the sun does not move at the poles all year round, but only twice a year along the horizon. And the further north you are, the longer the period during which the sun “at night” is wholly or partially above the horizon. The remains at the Arctic Circle (66 ° 33 ‘north latitude) whole sun Visible 24 hours a day from June 12th to July 1st. For comparison: At the North Pole from March 30th to September 23rd.

One cannot imagine the phenomenon of the midnight sun theoretically, but must actually have experienced it for oneself. Some people find it difficult to fall asleep in a bright, bright tent sky. For the hiker, however, it means that the daily available walking time is drastically increased. You are independent of light and dark phases and can reach milestones in a much more relaxed manner, as you don't have to worry about being surprised by the darkness.

The Midsummer Festival is traditionally celebrated in Sweden on the Saturday between June 20th and 26th. On this day business life is completely idle. This is important for the Sarek hiker if this day coincides with his arrival and he has the plan to get provisions or other equipment in cities such as Gällivare or Kiruna. That will not succeed, because the word most read on the doors of the shops will then be “Staul” (closed).

getting there

There are basically 3 modes of transport to get anywhere near the Sarek National Park: car, train and plane.

By car

If you are considering going by car, you should keep the long distance in mind and consider how much time the two journeys (there and back) will take. For German trekkers it is - depending on the federal state - around 2,000 to 3,000 km for one route. The ColorLine ferry between Kiel and Oslo will shorten the journey by 700 kilometers for one way.

Examples:

Arrival and departure would then 3 - 5 days of the possibly tight time budget.

By train

The train is a little faster and less strenuous, depending on the state and the connections, for example 2.5 - 4 days of the possibly tight time budget.

Examples up to Gällivare (online train information 04 Sep 2015):

  • Munich Hbf - Gällivare station = 39 - 48 hours
  • Bochum Hbf - Gällivare station = 32 - 45 hours
  • Flensburg Hbf - Gällivare station = 29 - 38 hours.

By plane

The plane is unbeaten in terms of pure flight time. With good connecting flights (domestic flight from Stockholm) the travel time can be shortened considerably.

Example of arrival: Departure in Düsseldorf 6:50 am, arrival in Gällivare 3:05 pm plus 2 hours bus transfer Gällivare - Saltoluokta --> 25 hours. However, in practice it will appear that connectionflightand connectionbus are hardly feasible on the same day. It is therefore advisable to plan an overnight stay in Gällivare (e.g. at the campsite). This again increases the total travel time, but the bottom line is that it is considerably less stressful.

By bus to the starting points

Since the Sarek is located in a sparsely populated area around the Arctic Circle, the infrastructure is correspondingly sparse. There are only a few towns and only a few roads to reach the nearest points that are suitable for entry into the Sarek: Kvikkjokk, Saltoluokta (Kebnats), Suorva and Ritsem. What all these points have in common is that they can be reached by bus or your own car.

Gällivare is a hub for bus connections to other places such as Kiruna, Porjus, Jokkmokk or Kvikkjokk.

From Gällivare the same bus travels along the northern edge of the Sarek along the dammed lake Akkajaure via the following breakpoints:

  • Saltoluokta (stop: Kebnats),
  • Suorva (stop at the dam)
  • Ritsem (end of the road).

Another bus connection leads to Kvikkjokk, which is at the southern end of the Sarek.

Starting point at Saltoluokta

The bus stop is called Kebnats. Here is (only) the jetty for the small ferry to the other shore of the lake: Kebnats <----> Saltoluokta The crossing is chargeable: For members of the Swedish Tourist Association STF(Svenska Turistföreningen) The cost is 100 SEK, for non-members 150 SEK (as of August 2015).

Saltoluokta is one of the first mountain stations built by the STF and is now over 100 years old. It is located on Lake Langas, which is a continuation of the accumulated Akkajaure.

The Sarek visitor starts here on the Kungsleden Head south and from there you have several options to turn into the Sarek National Park: Via Pietic acid you get to Kukkesvagge and on Sitojaure (Rinim seed settlement at the northern end of the lake) to Pastavagge.

Just before the Files Fjällstation you can take a turn to the west towards the mountain Skierffe and follow the mountain range until you reach the river Alep Vássjájågåsj and can descend into Rapadalen. Alternatively, you can take a motorboat from Aktse to the foot of the mountain Nammasj be brought in the Rapadalen. The best way to do this is to speak to the hut keepers, who contact the Länta family, who offer the boat crossings. The crossing costs 400 SEK per person and is operated twice a day between July 1 and August 31 at around 10:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m., except on Mondays (as of August 2015). The boat does not operate when the water level is very low.

Another alternative to get to the Sarek is in the vicinity of Vindskydd Rittak, where you can get to the Ijvvárlahko plateau from the east or via the Sami settlement Pårtewhere to climb the plateau from the south.

Starting point Kvikkjokk

The little place Kvikkjokk is a classic stage point of the Kungsleden with road and bus connections.

The Sarek visitor starts here on the Kungsleden Head north and have the same options from here to turn into the Sarek as described under “Starting point Saltoluokta” - only in reverse order.

Starting point Suorva

Suorva is just a stop for the bus. Here is only the damwhich ultimately destroyed the most beautiful waterfall in northern Sweden (Stora Sjöfallet). But here you can practically cross the dam and get over the next chain of hills into the Kukkesvagge, which forms a border with the Sarek.

Starting point Ritsem

The Ritsem mountain station is at the end of the road. Also operates here in Ferry boat (via the Akkajaure): Ritsem <----> Änonjalme.While Saltoluokta offers the concentrated charm of a romantic hut station, Ritsem is more functional.

The Sarek visitor follows this on the other side of the Akkajaure Padjelantaleden and has several options from this to turn into the Sarek National Park: after crossing (bridge) the raging Vuojatätno past the Akka-Mountain massif, via the mountain stations Kisuris, Laddejakk, Staloluokta, Tuottar.

Starting point SulitelmaVillage in Norway. Accessible by bus from Bodö (change in Fauskes). 2-3 days hike to Staloloukta.

Fees / permits

The Sarek National Park is freely accessible.

mobility

equipment

To hike through the Sarek National Park you need very good trekking equipment, which means high quality tent, backpack, Shoes and more suitable for the weather jacket. Everything else is a matter of taste and budget. Here, for example, army trousers are, for the time being, as good as the high-tech products with the arctic fox on their side. So you can gradually optimize your equipment.

Since numerous streams and rivers with sometimes strong currents have to be crossed Sticks required. Here you should not fall back on cheap products, because you have to be able to rely on the durability of the wading aids, especially in strong currents. To avoid wet hiking boots, you should use one for this purpose another pair of shoes be brought along. Above all, it is important to ensure that the toes are protected, as they quickly become numb in the regularly very cold water. Plastic shoes, such as Crocs, are very suitable for this. They are light, dry quickly and at the same time serve as comfortable footwear in the storage area. Neoprene shoes, such as those used in water sports, allow the feet to cool down less quickly, but are heavier and dry more slowly.

Cap and Gloves should not be missing on summer hikes either. Spontaneous weather changes can cause temperatures to drop significantly. For this reason it is also a high quality one Sleeping bag necessary, which is designed for minus temperatures!

Mosquito repellent

The summer months (June - August) are the wedding of the mosquitoes. Depending on the environment (strong population in wetlands and low altitudes and forests), one is quickly enveloped in a cloud of bloodsuckers during a break. Note the rule: where there is a bit of wind, you usually have peace from the pests.

  • Repellants (chemical)

Nothing really helps in the long run - sad but true. Everything that is applied to the skin (as a spray, stick or gel) is washed away by sweat after half an hour at the latest. In addition, the (well-known and best-known) Central European products show no effect at all. The best thing is to use locally available funds. Current is MYGGA on everyone's skin: it's also available as a spray and as a stick in the provisions shops of some mountain stations. Can also be obtained online.NORDIC SUMMER, a "smoky, smoky" paste, works really well - only you smell accordingly (DANGER:The health properties of this product based on birch wood tar and diethyltoluamide (DEET) are assessed by the Stiftung Warentest as inadequate).DJUNGEL OLJA, the Swedish classic, and OFF also help quite well.

  • Repellants (mechanically)

Who one Mosquito net (for the head) must wear a wide-brimmed headgear underneath so that the net is kept away from the face. The network makes perfect sense in forest or swamp areas. But it's a matter of taste. Some may feel impaired in their visual perception and may stumble as a result. You just have to try it out.

  • Repellants (temporal)

Only when the first frost has struck (end of August / beginning of September) the mosquito population is significantly decimated and the rest are no longer as agile as in summer. So: the best travel and hiking time is early autumn.

Map and compass

The statement that can be read in many ways: “There are no road markings in Sarek” is not true. It should not be forgotten that Swedes have hiked the Sarek for 100 years. During this period, of course, path markings were initially attached. Only these have not been renewed and fade for many years, and there that State Office for Environmental Protection would like to minimize the number of Sarek visitors, of course nothing will be done by this side (Exception: Particularly heavily frequented passages in swampy areas on the edge of the park are protected by short stretches with the typical plank paths. That is then the lesser evil compared to trampled swampy landscape.)

Map and compass still need to be included. The topographic map Nya Fjällkartan, Leaf BD10 (Scale 1: 100,000) covers the entire Sarek. Since hikers in this alpine region move along the valleys anyway and the routes are more or less predetermined, this map is very easy to use. However, it is advisable to take a compass with you in case of poor visibility. You should at least basically familiarize yourself with the operation of the compass in advance of the trip (e.g. -> http://www.gipfelshop.de/gebrauchsanweisung/kompass.pdf).

GPS: you don't need it! Carrying a GPS device can, however, be useful, especially if you are moving along a mountain slope and limited visibility (e.g. in fog) makes it difficult to find your way around on the map. Without GPS, you may have to take a few detours that can cost time and energy.

Tourist Attractions

Skierffe and Ráhpaädno (Rapaätno)

Ráhpaädno (Rapaätno)

The Sarek is crossed by a continuous waterway from the northwest to the southeast corner. In the upper half of the Sjnjuvtjudisjåhkå, Nijákjagasj and Smájlajjåhkå one after the other up to the Mikkastugan in the heart of the Sarek. The Mikkastugan is no longer shown in more recent map editions, but the Hjälptelefon is. It is located where the great valleys of Ruohtesvágge, Guohpervágge and Ráhpavoubme (Rapadalen) meet. From here the waterway initially continues as a narrow Ráhpajåhkå, until it finally flows as the Ráhpaädno (-ädno = large river) into the lake Lájtávrre. , Tjahkelij (in the south) and the small Nammasj (in the west), the Ráhpaädno has created a unique natural spectacle over time: a constantly changing delta of numerous water arms and small lakes.

The border of the national park has an indentation here, which leaves an approximately 2.5 x 6 km (15 square km) rectangle, precisely the river delta, from the national park. That means, the delta itself is not (!) In the national park. Therefore motorboat traffic is also possible here. The Same, based in the vicinity of the STF station Aktse, carries out transfers for Sarek hikers here. The stops are the Aktse jetty (approx. 1 km from the hut station via plank paths) and the end of the hiking trail in Sarek at the national park border not far (approx. 800 m) from Nammasj. Here you will find a large Sarek welcome sign and a box with a radio hanging on it. This is used to contact the motorboat seed, who then picks you up. Not in vain, of course: in 2006 the rate was the equivalent of around EUR 30-40 per person. CASH required.

The alternative to boating is to make your way along the delta directly below the steep walls of Skierffe or Tjahkeli (depending on which direction you want to follow the Kungsleden). Presumably, however, you will have to deal with dense birch forest and swamp or willow belts.

Skierffe

Height 1179 m - Coordinates: 67 ° 9 ′ 55 ″ N, 18 ° 12 ′ 35 ″ E

The mountain Skierffe is about five to six kilometers west of the well-known hiking trail Kungsleden and not far from the STF-Turiststation AKTSE. From its summit platform you have an unforgettable view of the Ráhpaädno delta. A trip to the Skierffe is definitely recommended. From the plateau between Aktse and Sitojaure on the Kungsleden, shortly before you descend the last 300 meters to Aktse or vice versa, a signposted trail branches off at right angles to the 800 m height line to the west. If you follow it, it takes about 1 - 1.5 hours or about 6 km over the easy-to-walk back of the Skierffe to its summit plateau.

The Skierffe forms a vertical wall to the valley of the Ráhpa. From the highest altitude at 1179m you have a clear view to the west into the 700 m lower lying river landscape of the Ráhpaädno. Attention: As everywhere in Scandinavia - and here anyway - there are no safety rails or similar at this viewpoint. So be careful when approaching the edge: It's 700 m straight down. Years ago there was a small metal box upstairs with a little book in it, in which you could immortalize yourself as a “summiteer”. Presumably it still exists.

Alkavare chapel:

“Probably not many tourists know that there is an original, 137-year-old church on the western edge of the still inaccessible Sarek Mountains [inzw. 227 years]. It is the Alkavare Lappkapelle. It was built at the western end of the Alkavare mountain and is 70 m above the Alkajaure lake (763 m above sea level). ”(Axel Hamberg, 1926)

This area is currently deserted, only in midsummer until mid-August it is animated by the advancing Sami with their reindeer herds, who live in the low mountains on Virihaure and Vastenjaure in summer. There was much more activity here in the second half of the 17th century. In 1657, silver ore was discovered on Mount Alkavare and a few years later a similar discovery was made about 2 miles south-southwest of Alkavare, at Kedkevare (Silbakvare). In 1661 a joint smelting foundry was built in Kvikkjokk. A real mining industry developed here on a modest scale. However, the yield was poor. Despite the low income from silver mining, Kvikkjokk was a well-known place in Swedish Lapland at that time and in this respect had even surpassed Jokkmokk, which was the capital of the vast Lulea region for a long time.

The reason for building a chapel in this remote mountain region was initially unclear. Only with the help of Professor K.B. Wiklund, an eminent expert on Lappish history, and other information about the chapel that Hamberg found in the National Archives in Stockholm, found that outdoor services were being held there several hundred years before the chapel was built. This is evidenced e.g. by documents from the year 1690.

In 1785 it was decided to erect a permanent building on the Virihaure at the mouth of the Miellätno, because it was once impossible to administer the sacraments during a church service due to storms and hailstorms. This matter landed again in the Senate in 1786. In a letter from 1788, the pastor at the time, Samuel Ohrling, thanked the congregation for having found shelter from storms and storms during a service in the chapel. The letter goes on to say that "the house at the western end of 'Alkawara" would be located so that the Fjäll Lappers could enjoy the same enjoyment there as those who live in Macaws on the Virihaure.

There is little record of the size of the chapel. A source found by Prof. Wiklund states that the total area was about 10-12 cubits in length and about 7-8 cubits in width. From the floor to the ridge it is about 7 cubits, the stone walls about 3-3 ½ cubits high. The floor was made of large stones, a window in the north and a door in the west. There were neither benches nor chairs: the people and priests stood during the entire ceremony; there was also no cemetery; Corpses had to be brought to Kvikkjokk.

Originally, the entire building was to be built from natural stones from the surrounding area, including the roof. This project was abandoned because such a roof construction was not possible. By opting for a wooden roof construction, the originally planned location in Aras am Virihaure was no longer chosen, but the one ultimately chosen on Alkavare. The simple explanation is that the weighty transport of the wooden components (roof, windows, doors) from Kvikkjokk no longer had to be carried out over 8 miles (= 80 km) but only over 6 miles (= 60 km).

Axel Hamberg, explorer of the Sarek area, repeatedly visited the location of the Alkavare Chapel and first discovered in 1896 that it had become the subject of vandalism. Demolitionists must have broken wood from the roof to operate stoves. On further visits in 1900 and 1916 the destruction had progressed even further. Hamberg was stunned by the lack of respect for a place of refuge in the vastness of the mountains on the one hand and the lack of awareness of being able to differentiate between "my" and "yours", especially when there is no need to fear that he was held accountable become.

Source:Axel Hamberg (1926). "Alkavare lappkapell: en Kulturbild". Svenska turistföreningens årsskrift. Svenska turistföreningen. sid. 263-272.Summary of the 10-page article by Hamberg in the yearbook of the STF from 1926 (see link in the WEBLINKS section below).


Axel Hamberg Observatory:

Photo gallery Sarek hike 2012:

Gallery 1Gallery 2Gallery 3
Sarek National Park
Example of a stretch of plank path over swampy or difficult scree passages.
Sarek National Park
Outdoor kitchen
Sarek National Park
On the way from the bridge over the Gadokjahka to the Rapadalen

activities

  • hike

Because of the geographical conditions (many high and rugged mountains - many over 2000 m), the HIKER has little choice but to follow the valleys and, if necessary, to cross one or the other small pass.

There are plenty of valleys and some are ideal for crossing the national park. For example, from the northwest to the southeast corner by following two of the largest valleys: Ruohtesvagge and Rapadalen.

Individual round tours or day trips from a base camp are further interesting options. You can and should plan this carefully at home, taking into account your time budget. The topographic map (sheet BD 10 the series Nya Fjällkartanthat covers the entire Sarek) are not missing Lantmäteriet offers a great Online service to: On its website different views of Sweden are offered: road map, Sweden map, satellite map, topographic map AND the above mentioned mountain map (Select "Fjällkartan" in the drop-down menu on the side). You can choose from many different scales. As a special treat, there is a ruler symbol in the top left corner of the screen. If you click on it, you can measure distances at will - ideal for planning a hiking route.

The following table lists all the valleys in the Sarek that have been named accordingly - vague or –Dalen end, and gives the approximate Location in the national park. The Roman and Arabic numerals refer to the segments in the corresponding figure, which are formed by the two concentric circles and the dividing lines. Roman numerals mean outer segments, Arabic numerals mean inner segments. In addition, there is further information about the length of the valley, neighboring valleys, limiting mountains and any special features.

Graphic division of the Sarek area into segments for determining the position of individual landmarks.
Name in old cardsName in new cardsLocation1Location2Length kmRiversAdjacent valleysLimiting mountainsparticularities
AkkavaggeAhkavaggeVII2Ahkajahka; Outflow from the Ahkajiegna glacierGoes south from the AlggavaggeSkarvatjahkka in the west; Ahkatjahkka in the east
AlkavaggeAlggavagggeVII10Galmmejahka - merges into the AlggajahkaGoes east from GuohpervaggeGuohperskajdde, Härrabakte, Alggavarre - steep flanks on the north sideThe valley ends at its western end with Lake Alggajavrre; Green belt for the last 2 km before reaching the lake; The valley entrance at the eastern end is frayed by watercourses
KatokvaggeGadokvaggeVI5,5GadokjahkaJiegnavagge1; RapadalenThe valley is actually a gorge that houses the Gadokjahka River and leads to the Rapadalen. The Gadokjahka is fed by various outflows from the Barddejiegna and surrounding mountains and flows into the Rahpaädno. There is a bridge where the gorge begins.
Jeknavagge 1Jiegnavagge1VI4Outflow of the Jiegnajavrre at the foot of the Unna StuolloGas vaneSkajdetjahkka in the west; Gadoktjahkka in the east; Unna Stuollo in the northrelatively narrow valley; a possible way from Sarvesvagge to the bridge over the Gadokjahkka.
Jeknavagge 2Jiegnavagge2124JiegnajakvagasjGoes south from Sarvesvagge near the western border of the national parkTjaggnaristjahkka in the west; Jiegnatjahkka in the east; Tsähkokk in the southpartially circumnavigates the Ryggasberget massif and leads from the Sarvesvagge to the Luohttolahko plateau
JilavaggeJilavagge112,5JilajahkaSnavvavagge; SoabbevagggeMichttse Skoarkki in the north; Stuor Skoarkki in the southThe valley is short and ultimately leads to the Skarki Skoarkki mountain in the west, which is embedded in the Alep Basstajiegna glacier
KaskasvaggeGas vane124,5GaskasjagasjGoes south from Sarvesvagge; Lullihavagge to the west; Jiegnavagge1 in the southwestthe elongated Alep Stuollo in the west (behind it is the Lullihavagge); at the northern entrance to the valley on the east side of the Lulep Stuollo, further south the Unna Stuollo and then the SkajdetjahkkaThe Gaskasvagge offers a passage from the Sarvesvagge to the river Gadokjahka (bridge) and thus to the Ijvvarlahko plateau.
KukkesvaggeGuhkesvaggeI.13Guhkesvakkjahkanoto the west lies the Sarektjahkka chain with many glaciers and some of the highest peaks in the national parknorth-eastern limit of the Sarek; breites Tal; zahlreiche Abflüsse von Gletschern und Bergen speisen den Guhkesvakkjahka; BRÜCKE über den Fluss am Südende des Tals am Fuß des Niendotjahkka
KuopervaggeGuohpervaggeVIII1622Guohperjahka; am nordwestlichen Talende speisen See- und Gletscherabflüsse den Guohperjahka, der sich auf den letzten 5 km bis zur Nationalparkgrenze deutlich verbreitert, stark mäandriert und sich zu guter Letzt umbenennt in Lavdajahka.Ruohtesvagge, Rapadalen; Alggavagge; NasasvaggeNordseite: Skarjatjakkah; SjielmatjakkahSüdseite: Lanjektjahkka; Nasastjahkka; Njahke;Im zentralen Punkt des Sarek kommen das Guohpervagge, das Ruohtesvagge und das Rapadalen zusammen. Von hier aus geht das Guohpervagge nach Westen, das Ruohtesvagge nach Nordwesten und das Rapadalen nach Südosten. An diesem Punkt gibt es eine private Hütte, die Mikkastugan, an der auch das einzige Hjälptelefon (Nottelefon) innerhalb der Nationalparkgrenze zu finden ist. In der Umgebung der Mikkastugen gibt es eine Sommerbrücke über den Smajlajjahka (Wasserfall).Etwa in der Mitte des Tals macht es den Knick Richtung Nordwesten, weil es den Berg Guohper (im Norden) teilumrundet. Dieser Keilförmige Fels hat eine Steilwand zur Talseite, kann aber von der Rückseite recht bequem über ca. 850 Höhenmeter (Strecke ca. 4 km vom Talgrund) bestiegen werden. Der Lohn ist ein tolles Panorama.
LaptavaggeLaptavaggeV7Abfluss de Sees Laptavakkjavrreliegt südwestlich oberhalb des Njoatsosvagge;Mangitjarro; Skiewun; TjuolldaDas Laptavagge liegt etwa 950 m hoch. Mitten durch läuft die Nationalparkgrenze. Umrahmt von den Steilwänden des Laptavarasj, Tsahtsa und Laptatjahkka liegt der langgestreckte ca. 4,5 km lange See Laptavakkjavrre, den die Nationalparkgrenze längs teilt.
LullihavaggeLullihavagge136,5Abfluss des Gletschers am LullihatjahkkaGeht südlich ab vom Sarvesvagge; Gaskasvagge; NoajdevaggeAlep Stuollo im Osten; Rand der Hochebene Luohttolahko im Westenenges Tal; ein möglicher Weg vom Sarvesvagge zur Brücke über den Gadokjahkka.
Sarek Nationalpark - Brücke über den Fluss Gadokjakkah
NaitevaggeNoajdevagge133Noajdejagasjgeht südlich ab vom Sarvesvagge; teilt sich dann in Noajdevagge und Lullihavagge;Naite Noajdde im Westen;sehr enges Tal mit dem Fluss Noajdejagasj über die gesamte Länge auf dem Talgrund; führt auf die Hochebene Luohttolahko
NasasvaggeNasasvaggeVII153liegt südlich oberhalb des Guohpervagge;Njahke im Westen; Nasastjahkka im Süden; Ausläufer des Lanjektjahkka im OstenAm Fuß der Steilwand des Njahke liegt der schmale, nierenförmige See Nasasjavrre
NeitarieppvaggeNiejdariehpvaggeVI3NiejdariehpjagasjGeht südlich ab vom Alggavagge;Niejdariehppe im Osten (mit Gletscher Rijddajiegna); Skajdetjahkka im SüdwestenVerbindet Alggavagge und Sarvesvagge
NiakvaggeNijakvaggeVIII2Abfluss des Gletschers NijakjiegnaGuhkesvagge; RuohtesvaggeGeht östlich ab vom Ruohtesvagge,Wenn man den Ausläufern des Guhkesvagge Richtung Nordost entlang des vergletscherten Sarektjahkka-Massivs folgt und ins Ruohtesvagge möche, geht das nur, indem der Berg Nijak umrundet wird - oder man kürzt den Weg um etwa 6-8 km ab und geht an der Südseite des Nijak entlang und auf 1240 m über einen kleinen Pass direkt ins Nijakvagge.Dem weiten Ruohtesvagge kann man dann problemlos und einfach bis zur Mikkastugan folgen.
NiettervaggeNiehtervaggeIII2keiner; Seen: Niehterjavrre und NiehterjavrasjRadnik; NiehterHoch gelegenes Tal nahe der östlichen Nationalparkgrenze. Verläuft parallel zur Steilflanke des Radnik. Im Anschluss an das Tal fällt die Südflanke des Radnik von ca. 1350 m auf etwa 500 m ins Rapadalen. Die letzten 1000 Höhenmeter werden auf etwa 1,8 km Strecke zurückgelegt. Ein wandernderweise Abstieg mit schwerem Gepäck ist nicht empfehlenswert.
NjatjosvaggeNjoatsosvaggeVVI25Njoatsosjahka; diverse Zuflüsse aus den BergenJiegnavagge2; SarvesvaggeBarddemassiv im unteren Teil; Tsahtsa, Vassjatjahkka, Vassjabakte (östlich); Tsähkkok, Bulkas, Tjaggnaristjahkka (westlich).Das Tal beginnt ca. 5-6 km westlich der Seenplatte um Boarek (Parek) mit einem sehr breiten Eingang und reichlich Grüngürtel. Ein Pfad führt von der Siedlung Boarek über Ausläufer des Barddemassivs in etwa 1100 m Höhe, um den Grüngürtel in Tal zu umgehen. Nach 15 km befindet man sich allerdings wieder auf dem Talgrund (etwa 660 m Höhe). Es folgen weitere 7 km ebenfalls durch einen Grüngürtel, bevor das Tal sich verengt und der Talgrund allmählich auf etwa 880 m Höhe steigt. Im letzten Teil befinden sich die beiden Seen Alep und Lulep Njoatsosjavrre. Das nordöstliche Talende ist nur etwa 1 km von der Nationalparkgrenze entfernt. In relativer Nachbarschaft (jeweils etwa 9 km entfernt) befinden sich die Hüttenstationen Tuottar (im Westen) und Tarraluoppal (im Süden) auf dem Padjelantaleden.
PastavaggeBasstavagge1011Lulep Basstajahka (Ostende); Alep Basstajahka (Westende)Skajdasjvagge; Soabbevagge; RapadalenÄhpar-Massiv im Norden; Dagartjahkka, Lulep/Alep Bassaskajdasj, Bielatjahkka im Südenöstliche Hälfte relativ eng; in der Mitte ragt die Gletscherzunge des Alep Basstajiegna fast bis ins Tal hinunter; vor dem westlichen Ende liegt der See Bierikjavrre
RapadalenRapadalen, RahpavoubmeIII1121Rapaätno (Rahpaädno); mächtigster Strom im Nationalpark; nimmt seinen Weg von ca. 680 m NN bis 495 m NN im Rapadelta bei Aktse; im Mittelteil (Rapaselet) sehr viel Wasser - Verbreiterung des Flussbetts, viele angrenzende Tümpel und zeitweilig überflutete Auen; die Lebensader des Sarek;Guohpervagge, Ruohtesvagge, Snavvavagge, Sarvesvagge, Gadokvaggelinke Flussseite: Tjaggnarisoalgge, Savalabdda, Bielatjahkka, Laddebakte, Stuor Skoarkki, rechte Flussseite: Alkatj (großer Gletscher), Gabdesvarasj, Jagasjgaskatjahkka, Bielloriehppe, Gadoktjahkka,Kreuzungspunkt Mikkastugan mit Ruohtesvagge und Guohpervagge; fast über die gesamte Tallänge vorherrschende Buschvegetation; der Rapaätno mündet in den See Laitaure bei der Hüttenstation Aktse (Kungsleden) und bildet vor dem See ein Naturschauspiel in Form eines verzweigten Deltas; der Berg Skierffe bildet mit seiner 700 m hohen senkrechten Steilwand den idealen Aussichtspunkt auf das Delta; der Skierffe ist von der Rückseite problemlos zu besteigen - oberhalb der Station Aktse zweigt ein (beschilderter) Weg rechtwinklig vom Kungsleden Richtung Skierffe ab (ca. 6 km).
RuotesvaggeRuohtesvaggeVIII1615Smajlajjahka; Wasserfall an der Mikkastuganam Nordende Abzweig nach Westen in SierggavaggeWestflanken der Sarektjakkah auf der Ostseite; Skarjatjahkka, Gisuris auf der Westseiteweites Tal, leicht zu begehen; kommt an der Mikkastugan mit Rapadalen und Guohpervagge zusammen
SarvesvaggeSarvesvaggeVI1223Sarvesjahka; im östlichen Teil viele kleinere Wasserläufe und Buschvegetationgeht westlich ab vom Rapadalen; Gaskasvagge, Noajdevagge, Niejdariehpvagge (Durchstich um Alggavagge), Jiegnavagge2Tielma, Rijddatjahkka, Skajdetjahkka, Sarvestjahkka auf der Nordseite; Bielloriehppe, Lulep Stuollo, Naite Noajdde, Luohttotjahkka, Ryggasberget, Tjaggnarisvarasj auf der Südseitedas lange Teil verläuft ziemlich in Ost-West-Richtung und endet (oder beginnt) an der westlichen Nationalparkgrenze (Luftlinie etwa 7 km bis zur Tuottarstugorna am Padjelantaleden);
SierkavaggeSierggavaggeVIII10Sierggajahka - zum großen Teil recht breit;geht westlich ab vom RuohtesvaggeGisuris im Norden; Ausläufer des Lavdak im Südenweites Tal, leicht zu begehen; endet an der westlichen Nationalparkgrenze (etwa 11 km weiter nach Westen bis zum Padjelantaleden; nach etwa 7 km quert man einen Wanderweg, der von der Kisurisstugan zur Laddejakkastugan (beides Stationen auf dem Padjelantaleden) führt);
SkaitatjvaggeSkajdasjvaggge112Abflüsse vom Gletschergeht südlich ab vom BasstavaggeDagartjahkka im Osten; Lulep Basstaskajdas im Westenteilt sich auf dem Weg nach oben; führt zum Gletscher Lulep Vassjajiegna
SnavvavaggeSnavvavagge113See 977JilavaggeLaddebakte im Osten; Bielatjahkka im WestenWeg vom Radadalen ins Rapadalen, um sich die (unmögliche) Umrundung des Laddebakte zu ersparen.
SabbevaggeSoabbevagge10112,5Gletscherabfluss, der in den Bierikjavrre mündetBasstavaggeBielatjahkka im Westen, Alep Basstaskajdasj im Osten
StuolovaggeStuolovagge122,5Stuolojagasj (Abfluss des Gletschers Stuolojiegna)geht südlich ab vom Sarvesvagge; Gaskasvagge, RapadalenLulep Stuollo, Unna Stuollo im Westen; Bielloriehppe im Ostenrelativ enges Tal; steile Bergflanken am Taleingang
VassjavaggeVassjavaggeIII4,5Lulep VasjajagasjNiehtervagge; RapadalenVassjabakte; Dagarlabdda (im Norden)
  • Climb
  • Kanutouren

shop

Klare Aussage: Im Nationalpark selbst gibt es NICHTS zu kaufen.

kitchen

Im Sarek gibt es keine Möglichkeit, Essen zu kaufen. Die gesamte Verpflegung muss in den Park selbst mitgenommen werden. Umgekehrt ist auch JEGLICHER Müll wieder aus dem Park zu entfernen. Nehmt einen stabilen Müllsack für diesen Zweck mit. Platz dafür habt Ihr: die Umhüllung der Spaghetti nimmt ungleich weniger Raum ein als die Nudeln selbst! Auch alle anderen zivilisatorischen Produkte (z.B. Teebeutel, Pflaster) gehören dazu!

Je nachdem wie man seine Tour plant, kann man in einigen Fjällhütten entlang der Wanderwege Kungsleden and Padjelantaleden, die am Ostrand bzw. West- und Südrand des Sarek verlaufen, Nahrungsmittel erwerben und seinen Proviant ergänzen (die nachfolgende Liste zeigt, in welchen Hütten es Proviant gibt).

Das Ladensortiment in den Berghütten schwankt je nach Größe der Hütte. Die Sortimente in den Hütten werden mit den Bezeichnungen LARGE, MEDIUM und SMALL bemessen.Die Kategorie SMALL bezeichnet ein begrenztes Sortiment an Waren, jedoch ausreichend für eine vollständige Mahlzeit. Das Angebot besteht aus einer Fleischkonserve, Suppe, Gefriergetrocknetem, Knäckebrot, Keksen, Tubenkäse, Pasta, Kartoffelbrei, Nescafé, Tee, Kakaogetränk, Haferflocken und Süßigkeiten (STF*; Stand: 09/2015).

FjällhütteWanderwegLink zur STF-SeiteProviant?
ÁhkkáPadjelantaledenÁhkkáNein
AktseKungsledenAktseJa
KisurisPadjelantaleden--Nein
KvikkjokkKungsleden, PadjelantaledenKvikkjokkJa
LåddejåkkåPadjelantaleden--Nein
NjunjesPadjelantaledenNjunjesNein
PårteKungsledenPårteNein
Ritsem--RitsemJa
SåmmarlappaPadjelantaledenSåmmarlappaJa
SaltoluoktaKungsledenSaltoluoktaJa
SitojaureKungsledenSitojaureNein
StaloluoktaPadjelantaleden--Ja
TarrekaisePadjelantaledenTarrekaiseJa
TuottarPadjelantaleden--Nein

*STF: Svenska Turistföreningen (der schwedische Wanderverein)

Proviant - Zusammenstellung

Die grundsätzliche Proviantfrage ergibt sich zwangsläufig entsprechend der gewählten Tour; d.h. kann unterwegs Proviant nachgefasst werden oder nicht. Der entscheidende Vorteil im ersten Fall ist, dass zum Einen das Rucksackgewicht erheblich geringer ausfällt und zum Anderen deshalb Lebensmittel ungeachtet ihrer Darreichungsform (schwere Konserven oder Glasbehälter) oder Nährstoffwerte ausgewählt werden können.Muss man allerdings den gesamten Proviant von Anfang an mitschleppen, sollte bei der Zusammenstellung des Proviants das Hauptaugenmerk auf den Nährstoffgehalt in Verbindung mit dem Gewicht der Lebensmittel gerichtet werden. Schwere (Glas-) oder sperrige (Karton-) Verpackungen sind zu vermeiden.Hier ist eine beispeilhafte Proviantliste:

  • Frühstück:
  • Müsli, Magermilchpulver (löst sich besser auf als Vollmilchpulver), 2 Pakete FinnCrisp für die ersten Tage, Honig (Plastik-Drückflasche – erspart klebriges Umfüllen vom Glas in Plastikbehälter; dasselbe bei NussNougat-Creme);
  • Hauptmahlzeiten:
  • Spaghetti, Kartoffelgerichte (halbfertig; z.B. Bratkartoffeln, Rösti), dehydrierte Pastagerichte and Suppen, Feststoffnahrung in Form von Salamis (750-g-Prengel mit 6-7 cm Durchmesser);
  • Zwischendurch und so:
  • Müsliriegel, Schokolade, Nüsse, Rosinen, Vitamin-Mineral-Pillen, Tee, Trockenobst.

Bezüglich der Mengen muss jeder seine persönliche Hungergrenze berücksichtigen. Eine alte Faustformel besagt: 1 Kilo pro Mann und Tag – allerdings scheint diese auf veralteten Grundlagen zu beruhen und vor der Verfügbarkeit von dehydrierten Nahrungsmitteln aufgestellt worden zu sein. Ein Erfahrungswert der letzten Jahre (für 3 Wochen und 3 Personen) ist: insgesamt etwa 35 kg Lebensmittel - das entspricht rechnerisch etwa 600 g pro Mann und Tag (Beispielliste hier: Proviantliste Beispiel:).

Es sollte jedem klar sein, dass eine Tour ohne Proviantstationen alles andere als eine Schlemmertour wird.

Das Trinken aus selbst kleineren fließenden Gewässern ist bedenkenlos möglich. Ausrüstung zur Wasserentkeimung ist nicht notwendig.

Aufgrund der hohen Dichte an Bächen und Flüssen im Sarek ist es nicht nötig, große Mengen Wasser selbst mitzuführen. Im Sommer ist eine kleine Flasche mit 0,5l – 1l für die meisten Touren ausreichend. Vor Reiseantritt sollte dennoch die Verfügbarkeit von Wasser auf der gewählten Route überprüft werden.

accommodation

Im gesamten Park werden keine Übernachtungsmöglichkeiten angeboten. Der Sarekwanderer muss für seine eigene Unterkunft sorgen. Auf dem Kartenblatt BD10 der Nya Fjällkartan sind vereinzelt Hütten eingezeichnet. Das sind aber alles private Hütten von Rentierzüchtern, die sämtlich verschlossen sind. Die von Axel Hamberg errichteten Blechhütten sind ebenfalls nicht zugänglich. Nur die mit einem Nottelefon ausgestattete Schutzhütte Mikkastugan im Zentrum des Nationalparks ist unverschlossen und frei zugänglich.

Eine Tour von Hütte zu Hütte mit reduziertem Rucksackgewicht (z.B. Verzicht auf Zelt, Kocher, Brennstoff) ist im Sarek nicht möglich. Mithin bleiben dem Wanderer nur folgende Unterkunftsmöglichkeiten, sein müdes Haupt zu betten:Zelt,Tarp andoffener Himmel.

Schlafen unter dem Sternen- bzw. hell erleuchteten Mitternachtssonnenhimmel kann man vielleicht in südlichen Gefilden praktizieren und sollte man im Hohen Norden - mit einer verlässlichen Aussicht auf nicht-trockene Ruhephasen – Puristen überlassen, die es nicht anders haben wollen.

Ein Tarp oder Sonnensegel ist da schon die bessere Alternative, ist man doch zumindest von oben gegen Niederschläge geschützt. Ob man auf Dauer mit dieser nach allen Seiten offenen Lösung zurecht kommt, muss jeder für sich entscheiden.

Das Zelt dagegen bietet einen Rundumschutz, wartet allerdings auch mit größerem Gewicht auf. Der Unterschied zwischen einem Ein-Mann-Zelt und einem Tarp wird nicht so groß sein, aber wenn man mit schon mit 2 oder 3 Leuten unterwegs ist, wird er signifikant.Die Wahl von Größe und Typ (Tunnel oder Kuppel) ist letztlich Geschmacks- und auch Gewichtssache. Wichtig ist nur, dass es sturmtauglich ist; Schönwetterzelte vom Discounter haben hier nichts zu suchen.

security

At the Mikkastugan (Mikka-Hütte) im Ruotesvagge - als zentraler Punkt des Nationalparks - befindet sich das einzige Nottelefeon (HJÄLPTELEFON) - in der Karte gekennzeichnet durch einen roten Telefonhörer im roten Kasten.

Weitere Nottelefone außerhalb des Sarek gibt es in folgenden Hüttenstationen:

  • auf dem Padjelantaleden: Áhkká, Kisuris, Låddejåkkå, Staloluokta, Tarraluoppal, Njunjes, Kvikkjokk
  • auf dem Kungsleden: Saltoluokta, Aktse, Kvikkjokk

Ausrüstungsgegenstände, die der Sicherheit (i.w.S.) zuträglich sein können:

  • Erste-Hilfe-Set und Reiseapotheke
  • Alu-Rettungsdecke
  • kleiner Signalgeber (der Leuchtraketen verschießen kann)
  • Seil - schon 20 m Reepschnur können in verschiedensten Situationen hilfreich sein (etwa beim Abseilen des schweren Rucksacks über problematische Passagen, bei denen man weder klettern noch springen möchte oder als zusätzliche Hilfe beim Waten durch starke Strömung oder ... oder...)

trips

literature

  • Lappland, of Walter Marsden, aus der Time-Life-Reihe "Wildnisse der Welt", 1976 (Dokumentation)- vermutlich nur noch antiquarisch erhältlich
  • Schweden: Sarek (Der Weg ist das Ziel), of Rebecca Drexhage and Benjamin Hell, 2011; ISBN 978-3866863651 (Reiseführer) (hat bei amazon schlechte Rezensionen, die sich aber auf ein anderes, gleichnamiges Buch beziehen!)
  • ...nur noch bis dahinten! Trekking im Sarek, of Klaus Heyne, 2014; ISBN 978-3732234325 (Reisebeschreibung)
  • Zwei im Sarek: Wandern unter der Mitternachtssonne', of Klaus Heyne, 2014; ISBN 978-3839134092 (Reisebeschreibung)
  • Zwei zum ersten Mal im Sarek: Wandern im Land der Samen, of Klaus Heyne, 2014; ISBN 978-3844802054 (Reisebeschreibung)
  • Sareks National Park BD10 1:100000 topographische Wanderkarte Schweden, Verlag Schweden Trekking (Landkarte)

Web links

Informationen über den Sarek bei VisitSweden

Homepage des STF

Private Seite von Benutzer Samiland - Kurzvideos, Fotostrecke, Leseproben veröffentlichter Reiseberichte über Sarekwanderungen

Reisebericht und Fotogalerie einer Sarek-Durchquerung (private Website)

Online-Karten vom Herausgeber Lantmäteriet (Nya Fjällkartan)

Auszug aus STF-Jahrbuch 1926; Beitrag von Axel Hamberg zur Alkavare Lappkapell

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