| Smolensk Смоленск | ||
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Coat of arms and flag _(2001).png/70px-Coat_of_Arms_of_Smolensk_(Smolensk_oblast)_(2001).png) .png/70px-Flag_of_Smolensk_(Smolensk_oblast).png){kind=small} | ||
| State | Russia | |
|---|---|---|
| Altitude | 240 m a.s.l. | |
| Surface | 166.35 km² | |
| Inhabitants | 326.861 (2010 census) | |
| Prefix tel | 7 4812 | |
| POSTAL CODE | 214ХХХ | |
| Time zone | UTC 4 | |
Position
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| Tourism site | ||
| Institutional website | ||
Smolensk is one of the westernmost cities of the Russia and also one of the oldest in this immense nation.
To know
Due to its centuries-old and varied history, Smolensk presents all aspects: from the most cheesy and mediocre to the sublime and unique. Probably no other Russian city has changed political affiliation so many times and has been the scene of bloody wars so many times. It is therefore no coincidence that if on the one hand, walking through Smolensk you will find a large number of monuments dedicated to the most disparate eras: the majestic fortress, a multitude of buildings and churches dating back to the 18th-19th century as well as examples of contemporary art - without counting the three Mongolian churches, on the other hand the numerous wars have destroyed many of the most important monuments and today only a few remains remain. Add to this that the old part of Smolensk rises on the upper course of the Dnieper River which gives the city a breathtaking view. And finally, think of a city that manages to harmonize a rural center with a highly industrialized suburb just 10 km from the Belarusian border. Put all these pieces together and you will have a first picture of what is modern Smolensk. Visitors' expectations differ enormously: there are those who arrive discouraged and those who are immediately enthusiastic but it is really very difficult to leave Smolensk even after a short stay without being impressed.
When to go
January, with an average of -8.5 ° C, is the coldest month of the year. While July, with its 17.3 ° C, is the hottest month.
Background
The history of Smolensk has nothing to envy to those of other Russian cities. The first time that its name appears in the medieval chronicles dates back to the year 863 when it is already mentioned as a large and well fortified city while Moscow was just a country village. Of this great city, however, we do not know exactly anything about its origins, not even the precise year of its foundation.We know, however, that at that time the nucleus of the city was located in today's Gnjozdov district, where today there is 'is a cemetery. Only in the 12th century, the city moved to the cathedral hill. In 882 Smolensk became a fief of the city of Veliky Novgorod and consequently it will subsequently become part of Kievan Rus '(Novgorod was, in fact, annexed to Rus' after a few years marked by important historical events and battles). In 1054 the principality of Smolensk was born, which means that, while remaining under the control of Kiev, the governor of Smolensk could himself claim to the throne of Kievan Rus' or, in some circumstances, assert his voice for the acceptance of his requests. During the seventies of the 11th century, the famous Vladimiro Monomaco ruled over Smolensk, who in addition to winning a whole series of battles against foreign invaders (Mongols in primis), composed a will near death, famous as Testament of Vladimiro Monomachus which is still one of the most important written documents of the medieval history of the Slav civilizations. After Vladimir, the Mongols managed to take most of the territories of Rus' and Smolensk was also part of that great Mongol kingdom in Eastern Europe that historians call Golden horde (in Russian Золотая Орда). In the same period another important principality arose, destined to mark a large part of the history of these territories: the principality of Lithuania which will also include Smolensk starting from 1359. Obviously from that moment, the official religion became Catholicism without this, however, caused great changes in the social fabric of the city which will keep its structure almost unchanged until the sixteenth century. In 1514 there was yet another change of government, from the moment that Vasily III, king of Moscow, managed to take over the city, after two unsuccessful attempts. The entire 16th century was marked by interminable wars with Lithuania and later with Poland with great suffering of Smolensk which in both cases found itself the battlefield due to its proximity to both the Polish and Lithuanian borders. One of the most important events was, in this context, the construction of an imposing brick fortress, the remains of which are still visible and can be visited today. Another central episode dates back to 1611 when in the midst of the so-called period of troubles, Smolensk was taken by Russian troops who remained here until 1654. During the Great Nordic War, in 1708, the Swedes settled in Smolensk after a resounding defeat near Moscow. In 1708, Smolensk was the seat of one of the first eight governorates established by Peter the Great of Russia. The border, which was originally not far from today's Russian-Polish border, was moved following the war events in the vicinity of the city of Vitebsk in 1772 and then widened to Minsk. have affected the city: in 1812 Smolensk was taken by the French army and from 1941 to 1943 by the German one. However, in these wars, Smolensk was merely a victim, playing no more noteworthy role in war and political strategies than it did during the first part of its centennial history. Finally, the modern history of Smolensk does not differ much from that of other Russian cities: it became one of the governorates of the USSR and following the fall of the latter, a governorate of the Russian Federation.
How to orient yourself
Smolensk: full screen map.The central station and a good number of tourist attractions are located on the right bank of the Dnieper and here also the means coming from Moscow arrive and the trains of the Moscow-Minsk route pass. The historical fortress of Smolensk occupies an immense area, inside which there are churches, a monastery, apartments and an endless number of other buildings, all enclosed by the walls of the ancient fortress. flat, as opposed to the left one which is hilly. This means that by visiting the fortress you can enjoy a wonderful panorama but be careful because it is also easy to lose your orientation and not be able to reach the desired destination.The main road of Smolensk runs starting from the course of the Dnieper, passing through the fortress and ending in the city center. His name is Большая Советская (ulitsa Bol'šaja Sovetskaja) which translated into Italian would be: Grande via Sovietica.Дзержинского), the second most important here in Smolensk, extends from the center to the west of the fortress and takes you to the train station.
The historical part of Smolensk is not very large by extension and this can be an advantage if you decide to visit it on foot. The church of Svir is located near the lower course of the Dnieper quite far from the center but still not too far to be reached on foot.
How to get
By plane
There is no civil airport but only two military ones. From time to time there is a plan to transform military airports into civilian airports, but none of these projects have yet been realized.
By car
Smolensk can be reached via the road of national importance 
Belarus and is 406 km from Moscow. Another possibility is the 
, a regional road starting from Orl 372 km from Smolensk or starting from Rudin 64 km away. The R133, R134 and R135 are other minor roads that intersect the Smolensk territory.
On the train
The Moscow-Minsk-Brest railway line passes through Smolensk on which no less than 15-20 trains pass daily. From Moscow it is possible to take a train to Smolensk every four hours. The journey takes approximately 5 hours. From Minsk, however, many more trains leave for Smolensk and the journey takes 4 hours. From St. Petersburg the situation does not change, although trains take longer to arrive at their destination (up to 15 hours). However, even this possibility is not lacking.
- 1 Central Station (Железнодорожный вокзал Смоленск-Центральный), P.za Privokzal'naja, 1 (right bank of the river). Central railway station located in a building that belongs to the Stalinist Baroque period.
By bus
Bus connections are plentiful and all work well. In particular Smolensk is connected to Moscow, Pskov, St.Pietroburgo, Velikie Luki, Tver ', Nelidovo, Kaluga, Tula, Bryansk, Djat'kovo, Orjol, Kursk, Velgorod, Kiev, Line, Vitebsk, Novopolock, Mogiljov is Mstislavl '.
- 2 Bus Station (Автовокзал), ulitsa Kašena, 13 (next to the train station), ☎ 7(4812)27-09-52.
- From Moscow. There are many companies offering Moscow-Smolensk connections. However, you will have to take into account a journey of about 7 hours.
- An important company is called "Русская дорога»(Russkaja doroga). Its buses depart approximately every 2 hours from 7:30 am to 11:30 pm. As for prices, we are around 1000 rubles. The feedbacks of travelers are very different from each other, some quite negative.
- Other means depart from the Moscow stations of Shelkovskogo and Tušinskogo but these are means that usually carry out international services, which means that both timetables and fares can change unpredictably.
How to get around
By public transport
City public transport comes in three classic variants: Omnibus, bus and tram to which another is added: the typical Russian maršrut or a small bus used by tourists and citizens. Ticket costs do not go far from 18 rubles, whatever the means chosen. The payment of the ticket is made directly to the driver as soon as you get on board.
By taxi
Taxis in Smolensk are relatively popular. Prices within the city range from 120 to 150 rubles per call, at least according to official sources. Don't expect, however, to find a taxi at the lowest price.
What see
Smolensk is quite a large city and visiting it all in one day is practically impossible. If you are short on time and use some means of transport, then we advise you not to miss the following attractions:
- Fortress walls with towers (крепостной стены с башнями). The ancient fortress has not come to us complete but these remains are really worth a visit.
- Three pre-Mongol churches: The Church of Saints Peter and Paul, the Church of Michael the Archangel and the Church of St. John the Apostle are the oldest churches in Smolensk and all located near the Central Station.
- Cathedral mountain
Don't forget to admire the products of the pre-revolutionary building along Lenin and Glinki streets.
- Baroque churches: these are some churches painted externally with bright colors. Among the main ones we mention the Georgian Church and the Spaso-Preobraženskij Church as well as the Abraham monastery.
If you can, then visit the museums of the city. If you are interested in sculpture, you cannot miss the Sergej Konjonkov museum. Finally, if you still have one day left, we recommend that you visit the Smolensk district.
- 1 Walls of the fortress (Смоленская крепостная стена). The Smolensk Fortress is a huge area on the left bank of the river within which a large part of the city center is located. Today only one wall of the ancient fortress can be admired and it is no longer possible to reconstruct what plant this building had. The wall that remains today is not even one of the oldest but part of the fortress of Boris Godunov, built between 1596 and 1602 which housed the entire city for a long time. Today you can also admire the towers, 3 in the north, 5 in the south-west and another 10 in the south-east. The overall architecture is reminiscent of that of Nizhny Novgorod
Station district
The station district also belongs to the city center and contains many of the city's oldest monuments.
- 2 Church of San Pietro e Paolo (Церковь святых Петра и Павла на Городянке), ulitsa Kašena, 20 (at the pedestrian bridge leading to the station). It is the oldest church in Smolensk among the three Pre-Mongol churches, although its present appearance is due to the restoration of the early 1950s. The year of its foundation is not known, but two hypotheses have been put forward: one according to which the building dates back to the late 12th century and another that anticipates it to 1170. It is not even clear why this site was chosen as a place. of construction, since in the Middle Ages this was a fairly distant area from the urban settlement even if today it is practically in the center of modern Smolensk. The church, built in white stone, has many elements of resemblance to the other contemporary church: that of Vladimir in Veliky Novgorod which differs from that of Smolensk only in the construction material, being red brick.
- 3 Church of Santa Barbara (Церковь святой Варвары), ulitsa Kašena, 20 (next to the church of San Pietro e Paolo). It is a church from 1757 which is spread over two floors. Its characteristic is the unusual, for the time in which it was built, a colonnade in the shape of a pyramid. The church looks like a building quite pleasant to look at even if it loses visibility due to its proximity to the imposing church of San Pietro e Paolo.
- Church of San Giorgio Vittorioso (Верхне-Георгиевская церковь), ulitsa Tolmačjova, 2A (north of the station). Originally it was a cemetery church, built in 1810 in full classicist style which today is no longer fully recognizable. The church is spread over three floors and is painted green on the outside. The building is all in all nice even if a bit far from the center, about 10 minutes walk from the station
- 4 Church of San Michele Arcangelo (Церковь Михаила Архангела), ulitsa Parkovaja, 4A (20 minutes walk from the center, on the lower Dnieper). The church was built in 1180 or 1190 and then reorganized several times and radically over the centuries, so much so that it completely lost its original appearance. From historical sources we know that the site on which the church stands was the summer residence of the governor of Smolensk. The building has a very unusual shape for Orthodox churches, that is, with a marked vertical extension. This was considered a sign of pride by the Orthodox and a distinctive feature of Catholics. The Russian Orthodox churches, in fact, replace a horizontal extension and a wealth of decorations and colors at the height. The bell tower is an 18th century addition but other than that, the building as a whole is a fine example of the ancient Smolensk building and perhaps one of the few from such an ancient era.
- 5 Church of San Giovanni (Церковь Иоанна Богослова), crossing between ulitsa Krasnoflotskoj and ulitsa Dzeržinskogo (just south of the station, on the banks of the Dnieper). The church was built during the reign of Roman Rostislavič (around 1170) and it too has been renovated many times not to mention upset. The first time dates back to 1611 by the Poles who adapted it for the Catholic rite and as a result it lost almost all its frescoes (apart from some fragments) and the external appearance was radically changed. The highest part is the most recent and dates back to the 18th century
- 6 Palace of Culture (ДК железнодорожников), via Vitebskoe, 10 (North station). Neo-Baroque Stalinist building from 1958 with a beautiful colonnade.
Bolshaja Sovetskaya Street
Bolshaja Sovetskaya Street is the main street in Smolensk and crosses it from north to south like an enchanting backbone. Along its course and its surroundings it is possible to find and visit the main buildings and attractions of Smolensk
- 7 Dormition Cathedral (Успенский собор), Cathedral Hill (Соборная Гора), 5 (left bank of the Dnieper). It is the largest and most important of the Smolensk cathedrals. A factor that contributed to making it important was certainly its position, on the hill known as the cathedral. It was built in the 12th century even if the old cathedral was destroyed in the period of the troubles, the one that followed the death of Ivan the Terrible. The new one, begun in 1677, belongs to the Baroque style and embellished with a bell tower in 1760-1170. The internal part consists of 5 main halls with a typical green color.The church also forms the central part of the cathedral hill on which, however, there are three other important churches.
- 8 Epiphany Cathedral (Богоявленский собор) (Cathedral Hill). This second single-domed cathedral is also located on the hill and was built in 1780 in a classicist style. It too is painted green.
- 9 Church of John the Baptist (Церковь Иоанна Предтечи). Square-shaped church, dating back to 1703.
- 10 Church of the Mother of God (Благовещенская церковь), ulitsa Sobornaja Gora, 9. Church of the '700, very similar to the one dedicated to the Baptist. Both are recognizable by the yellow color of the external walls.
- 11 Trinity Monastery (Троицкий монастырь), ulitsa Sovetskaya, 9. If, coming from the Dnieper River, you start along the Bol'šaja Sovetskaja street, you cannot fail to notice, on the left, this large monastery with a characteristic pink color. The monastery was started by the uniate church in 1669 and finished by the orthodox. Like, many other buildings in the area, it too is Baroque in style. Next to the monastery is the small cathedral dedicated to Sant'Anna which shows the transition from baroque to classicism.
- 12 House with the clock (Дом с часами), ulitsa Bol'šaja Sovetskaja, 16. At the beginning of the 19th century there was a shop here, later a hotel (Europejskaja) was established in these same premises. The war severely damaged the building and the clock fell apart. After the war, a restoration restored the building to its original appearance, including the clock.
- 13 Monument to Alexander Tvardovsky and Vasily Terkin (Памятник Александру Твардовскому и Василию Тёркину), p.za Pobedy. In Russia there are several monuments to the poet Tvardovskij but perhaps no one else immortalizes the protagonist of his books in marble: Vasilij Terkin. The monument is a true symbol for the city and many Smolensk residents are even moved to look at this touching example of Soviet art.
Center
West of Bolshaja Sovetskaya Street begins the most important of the Stoic districts of Smolensk. Although the ancient churches that are located elsewhere in Smolensk are missing, however this part of the city is full of gardens, parks, pre-revolutionary buildings and monuments.
- 14 Southwestern wall (Юго-западный участок стены). This is the part of the boundary wall that has been best preserved; on both sides of the wall there are monuments and parks and it is also the part closest to the city center. Along this portion of the wall there is also the quadrangular tower called Mochovaja on the border with the eastern part of Bol'šaja Sovetskaja ulitsa. Around it is the old Smolensk park, now called Park of the Pioneers, an immense green lung of the city. In the park there is also the monument and mass grave for children killed in the Nazi extermination camps and commonly known as "Burnt flower" (Опалённый цветок). Also preserved is the "Šeinov Bastion", a fortress built by the Poles in 1632-1634 at the time of the siege of Smolensk by the Russians. The Russians tried and managed to open a breach in the fortress but thanks to this defensive bastion, the Poles managed to defend themselves and repel the assault. Further west, we find four other towers with a defensive function, respectively called "Donec", "Gromovaja", "Bublejka", "Kopytenskaja". Inside the tower called Gromovaja, there is now a museum with the evocative name "Smolensk - shield of Russia" dedicated to the military history of Smolensk. Next to it, you can admire the monument to the architect who built the fortress, Fedor Kon '. From the outside of the wall stands the monument to the heroes on the way to the Lopatinsky garden.
- 15 Heroes Monument Square (Сквер памяти героев) (next to the Donec tower). This small square houses the monument to the Soviet heroes of the city on which a commemorative flame is constantly lit. Nearby is the avenue of the hero cities (the ones that distinguished themselves during the Second World War) and an ancient necropolis. Not far away there is also a monument to the heroes of the Napoleonic War of 1812, erected on the occasion of the centenary of the victory by the sculptor Stepan Nadol'skij and representing the major leaders of the battle against Napoleon, many of whom were added in Soviet times.
- 16 Lopatinsky Garden (Лопатинский сад). The garden was created in 1874 by order of the governor Aleksandr Lopatin from whom the garden took its name. The garden is located where the ancient royal fortress of the seventeenth century used to be, of which a bridge and the "Royal Bastion" remain. (Королевский Бастион). In the park you can admire the monument to the Smolensk fire of 4-5 August 1812, the work of an Italian (Antonio Adamini); this together with other monuments, are part of that group of sculptures and works of art created on the occasion of the centenary of the Napoleonic War in 1912.
- 17 Blon'e city garden (Городской сад Блонье), ulitsa Lenina. The garden is located inside the nineteenth-century fortress. The square-shaped park is enclosed between Lenina, Glinki, Kommunističeskoj and October Revolution streets. In addition to being one of the oldest public gardens in Smolensk, the park is also important because it contains two other historical monuments: the monument to the musician Glinke (1885), built with a public collection, and the bronze monument to the Deer imported from Germany. This monument was originally designed for William II's hunting estate in East Prussia but was later seized by the Soviet army and moved to Smolensk after passing through Gering's dacha. The name comes not from a surname but means Border area.
- 18 Smolensk Town Hall (Здание администрации Смоленска), ulitsa Oktjabrskoj Revoljucij, 1. Pre-revolutionary building (1908), in neoclassic style to a design by Fedor Šehtelja.
- 19 Monastery of the Assumption (Вознесенский монастырь), ulitsa Konjonkova. The monastery was founded in the 17th century (nothing has been preserved from this first phase), and is now located in the city center; it consists of three churches very close to each other. The cells of the monastery and the monastery itself have not been well preserved and is no longer inhabited. The main church of this complex is the Cathedral of the Assumption, completed in 1690 in Baroque style with beautiful white stuccoes. In addition to the cathedral, there is also a not particularly interesting church of the Mother of God of Ochtyrka and finally, in addition to the monastery buildings, a third Baroque church known as "Ekaterininskaja", built in honor of the Tsarina of Russia Catherine in 1764. This church is not visible from the road due to the cathedral that covers it and you have to go beyond the arch that marks the entrance to the ecclesiastical complex.
- 20 Engel'gardt house (Дом Энгельгардта), ulitsa Glinki, 4. Today this palace functions mainly on the occasion of solemn weddings. It was built in 1879 to a design by Juliana Konopljanskogo for Aleksandr Engel'gardt
- 21 Chess Club, Fenix (Шахматный клуб Феникс), ulitsa Lenina, 12. The building, originally a church, was completed in the early 1860s for the Germans living in Smolensk.
- 22 Administrative Palace of the Smolensk Oblast (Здание администрации Смоленской области), p.za Lenin, 1. The building, seat of the administrative offices of the Oblast (that is, of the region surrounding Smolensk), was completed in 1932 to a design by Sofia In'inskoj in the constructivist style, then prevailing.
- 23 Palace of the former council of nobles (Здание бывшей Дворянской Думы), ulitsa Kommunističeskaja, 6. The palace dates back to 1886 but has been renovated and turned upside down many times. Note the beautiful tower in the center.
- 24 House with lions (Дом со львами), ulitsa Kommunističeskaja (near the noble palace with the tower.). Officially known as the "House dedicated to the heroes of the iron river", this palace is a monument of constructivism dating back to the 1930s. At the entrance you will be welcomed by two statues representing lions, hence the popular name.
- 25 [link previously not working]Art academy or old governor's house (бывший дом губернатора Смоленской губернии), ulitsa Okt'jabrskaja Revolucija, 8. Important building from 1781 first built in the Baroque style and then renovated in the neoclassic style, as can be easily seen today.
- 26 [link previously not working]house-Municipality (Дом-коммуна), ulitsa Konjonkova, 9a. This impressive 7-storey building is located on the so-called hill of the Resurrection and it was built in the 30s of the last century on a design by Vutke. The name of "Common House" is obviously a tribute to the Paris Commune. The style is undoubtedly the constructivist one, of which it constitutes the oldest example made in the territory of Smolensk. Today this palace is completely abandoned and it is not possible to visit it from the inside. It is even more difficult for the Smolensk administration to make it habitable, as there is a lack of water and electricity connections in this ancient palace. According to the original project it was supposed to accommodate large families and in fact it has many apartments that all give into a central atrium which is dominated by a large staircase.
Eastern district
The eastern part of the Smolensk fortress looks more like a rural area or suburb than the city center. At this point the city has almost sunk by a level due to the subsidence of the land and is characterized by winding streets.
- 27 Southeastern wall (Юго-восточный участок стены). This well-preserved part of the city wall is important because it is a reference point and an obligatory passage for anyone heading to or arriving in Smolensk from the outskirts of the city. The southeastern wall begins north of the Veselucha tower and continues to the Dnieper. South of the wall are the Orjol (see photo), Pozdnjakova, Avraamievskaja and Zaaltarnaja towers. All these buildings are today in a state of decay and neglect. From the Zaaltarnaja tower the wall continues until it meets other towers: the Voronina, the Dolgočeskaja, Zimbulka and the NIkol'skaja. The latter marks the end of this section of the wall. Even these towers are now abandoned with the exception of Nikol'skaja which can be visited. Until 1898 there was an arch between the towers which was destroyed to allow the tram to pass.
- 28 Monastery of Abraham (Авраамиевский монастырь). This monastery is located in the eastern part of the city center, inside the walls. It was founded in the 13th century by a monk named Abraham, hence the name. What can be seen today, however, dates back to the 18th century. The monastery is flanked by the cathedral called Spaso-Preobraženskij dating back to 1755, arranged on 3 floors and with white walls. The cathedral, richly decorated with stucco, is reminiscent of the Ukrainian Baroque. The monastery is one of the few still in operation in the city center.
- 29 Church of San Giorgio (Георгиевская церковь). The church, also located in the city center and precisely in the eastern part, was built in 1782 in the Baroque style. Today it is recognizable by the red walls and elegant stuccoes. It has three floors with a large dome. The colonnade was added much later than the construction in 1826.
- 30 Pokrovskaya Church (Покровская церковь), ulitsa Timirjazeva, 5 (next to the Veselucha tower). Church built at the end of the 18th century, particular for its complex composition. The exterior was painted green.
- 31 Church of the Savior (Спасская церковь), ulitsa Revvoensoveta, 13. Large baroque style church from 1766-1768. It has two floors and is equipped with a colonnade even if some columns are missing, finished who knows where. Today the church is no longer in operation and needs urgent restoration work.
On the course of the Dnieper
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- 32 Northern part of the wall (Северный участок стены). The northern part is certainly the shortest and worst preserved part but also the most characteristic as it constitutes the access to the river. This small part of the wall also has three towers. The westernmost of these, the Pyatnickoj connects the two parts of the wall. The easternmost part of this section of the wall reaches up to the main street of the city albeit with some breaks or cracks. The Pyatnickaja tower was destroyed in 1812 during the Napoleonic war and rebuilt later. In a remote time, the same tower served as a chapel (with the name of the Church of Tikhon Zadonsky) but not anymore and, instead of the church, it houses a museum illustrating the manufacture of Vodka with an adjoining restaurant.
- 33 Church of the Odegitria at the gate of the Dnieper (Одигитриевская церковь у Днепровских ворот), ulitsa Soboleva. This nineteenth-century church is famous for having a precious odegitria icon dedicated to the "Mother of God". Dopo la seconda guerra mondiale, il passaggio che conduce alla Porta sul Dnepr fu sbarrato per motivi di sicurezza e ora è ancora impossibile accedervi. La chiesa si presenta in stile neoclassicista e si distingue per le belle forme e la vista sulla sponda del Dnepr.
- 34 Chiesa della Resurrezione (Воскресенская церковь). Chiesa abbastanza carina del 1765 dalla forma quasi cubica. Dal refettorio del monastero si giunge alla torre campanaria. Oggi non è più in funzione come chiesa ma ospita un osservatorio astronomico.
- 35 Chiesa minore di San Nicola (Нижне-Никольская церковь), ulitsa Novo-Leningradskaja, 4A. Anche questa è una piccola chiesa conventuale, costruita nel 1754-1748. Al piano superiore si trova la chiesa vera e propria mentre il piano inferiore ospita piccole cappelle con altare. Le pareti, dipinte di rosso, si abbinano bene con il colore verde del tetto. La chiesa è sita sulla riva destra del fiume, di fronte alla Porta del Dnepr e per questo, il miglior modo per ammirarla è proprio dal fiume. L'unico problema è che tra il fiume e la chiesa è stato costruito un parcheggio, quindi se vorrete scattare delle foto, vi conviene andarci di mattina presto. Sulla parete esterna troverete una lapide in stile pseudorusso che recita: "Cappella di San Nicola taumaturgo"
- 36 Chiesa dell'Esaltazione della Croce (Крестовоздвиженская церковь), ulitsa Novomoskovskaja, 33B. Questa chiesa si trova, anch'essa, sulla riva destra del fiume, abbastanza distante dalla stazione. Tuttavia, essa è sicuramente uno dei monumenti di Smolensk da visitare. La stessa chiesa, costruita nel 1764-1767, si articola come molte altre contemporanee su due piani a forma di grande cilindro. Dal refettorio si arriva, anche in questo caso, al campanile. Tutto il complesso è dipinto di verde e risulta gradevole allo sguardo.
- 37 Chiesa del Cimitero (Окопная церковь), via Okopnaja. Questa antica chiesa cimiteriale (1776), si trova a Est del centro città sulla riva destra del fiume. È dotata di un campanile in stille classicista ed è dipinta di rosso. Accanto si trova la tomba dello storico originario di Smolensk, N.A. Murzakeviča, la più antica lapide funeraria (1834) di Smolensk.
Quartiere meridionale
Il quartiere a Sud del centro di Smolensk fu edificato quasi interamente sotto il regime sovietico. Questo significa che non troverete molte opere o monumenti antichi o degni di nota.
- 38 Chiesa della Vergine Maria (Костёл непорочного зачатия Девы Марии), ulitsa Urickogo, 10. Chiesa costruita nel 1894-1897 su progetto di Mejšnera per poter offrire alla comunità cattolica di Smolensk, notevolmente aumentata in quegli anni, un nuovo edificio di culto al posto della vecchia, troppo piccola, chiesa cattolica. I cattolici, a Smolensk, sono una comunità abbastanza corposa sin dai tempi della dominazione polacca. La chiesa si presenta con il suo tipico e carino aspetto rosso, dal colore dei mattoni, e con un portale enorme per gli standard delle chiese ortodosse; Questo chiesa dispone anche di due torri campanarie che tuttavia, non funzionano più e versano in pessimo stato di conservazione.
Vie centrali
Tra le molte strade che percorrono Smolensk, alcune offrono al visitatore alcuni dei più importanti monumenti o edifici della città. Di seguito elenchiamo le vie (ulitsa, plurale: ulitsy) che consigliamo di percorrere se volete ottenere un'immagine suggestiva della città, senza fermarvi a visitare i singoli palazzi;
- ulitsa Bol'šaja Sovetskaja (улица Большая Советская). L'arteria principale della città
- ulitsa Lenina (улица Ленина). Questa via ha cambiato più volte nome: fino al 1860 era chiamata "Via Blonskaja" (cioè via di confine), poi "via Kiročnaja" e dal 1924, anno della morte di Lenin, finalmente "Via Lenin".
- ulitsa Kommunističeskaja (улица Коммунистическая).
- ulitsa Prževal'skogo (улица Пржевальского). anche chiamata Stalinskij ampir
- ulitsa Grinki (улица Глинки). una delle vie in cui si concentrano gli esempi d'arte sovietica.
- ulitsa Majakovskogo (улица Маяковского).
- ulitsa Karla Marxa (улица Карла Маркса).
- Via della Komsomol'skaja (Комсомольская аллея) (vicino ulitsa Dzeržinskogo).
Parks and gardens
Smolensk è famosa come una delle città verdi della Russia; soprattutto nel quartiere centrale si trovano numerosi parchi e giardini che sono una sorta di contenitori di meraviglie in quanto spesso potrete ammirare, al loro interno, stupende sculture o edifici o opere d'arte.
- Парк 1100-летия Смоленск, via 25 Settembre. Parco inaugurato in occasione dei 1100 anni di Smolensk.
- Viale dei cittadini famosi (Аллея выдающихся смолян и жителей Смоленска), ulitsa Oktjabr'skaja.
- Piazza Puškin (Сквер им. А.С. Пушкина), ulitsa Dzeržinskogo.
- Piazza Gagarin (Сквер им. Ю.А. Гагарина), Piazza Gagarin.
Monuments
Oltre ai numerosi monumenti già citati, segnaliamo alcuni altri che potrete trovare passeggiando per i parchi di Smolensk:
- Monumento alla madre in lutto (Памятник Скорбящая мать), Parco Readovskij.
- Monumento alla liberazione di Smolensk del 25 agosto 1943 (Памятник воинам-освободителям Смоленска 25 августа 1943 года), ulitsa Oktjabr'skoj Revolucii.
- Monumento Štyk (Монумент Штык), ulitsa Frinze.
- Monumento ai soldati sovietici (Братская могила советских военнопленных), ulitsa Zoj Kosmodem'janskoj.
- Monumento a M.I. Kutuzovum re di Smolensk (Памятник М.И. Голенищеву-Кутузову, князю Смоленскому), Сквер им. М.И. Голенищева-Кутузова.
- Monumento a Puškin (Памятник А.С. Пушкину), P.za Puškina.
- Monumento a Lenin (Памятник В.И. Ленину), ulitsa Lenina.
- Monumento a Lenin (Памятник В.И. Ленину), p.za Gagarina.
- Monumento a Karl Marx (Памятник К. Марксу), ulitsa Dzeržinskogo.
Events and parties
What to do
Museums
- 1 Museo storico di Smolensk (моленский исторический музей), ulitsa Lenina, 8, ☎ 7 4812 65-68-71.
50 rubli. 
Mar-Giov 10:00-18:00, Ven 10:00-17:00, Sab 10:00-18:00. A parte le mostre temporanee, il museo ospita due mostre permanenti a proposito dell'archeologia e della storia antica di Smolensk. - 2 Smolensk al tempo della Grande Guerra Patriottica (Смоленщина в годы Великой Отечественной), ulitsa Dzeržinskogo, 4a. Nel 2013 è stato chiuso per restauro. Non è noto quando sarà riaperto.
- 3 [link not working]Smolensk - Scudo della Russia (Смоленск — щит России), ulitsa Oktjabr'skoj Revolucii (nella Torre Gromovoja), ☎ 7 4812 38 41 73. 50 rubli. Giov-Mar 10:00-18:00 (il ven. fino alle 17:00). Al secondo piano della torre, si trova una mostra sulla storia della fortezza di Smolensk e al terzo una sulle battaglie combattute qui e al quarto si accede ad un terrazino panoramico.
- 4 Fucina cittadina del XVII secolo (Городская кузница XVII в.), ulitsa Lenina, 8a, ☎ 7 4812 38-38-62. 50 rubli. Giov-Mar 10:00-18:00 (il ven. fino alle 17:00). È uno dei più antichi edifici cittadini, non religiosi, conservatisi a Smolensk.
- 5 Museo della Scultura, S.T. Konjonkova (Музей скульптуры С.Т. Конёнкова), ☎ 7 4812 38-20-29. 50 rubli. Giov-Mar 10:00-18:00 (il ven. fino alle 17:00). Sergej Konjonkov è stato uno dei più importanti scultori russi del XX secolo. Nacque a Smolensk, studiò a Mosca e in seguito emigrò negli Stati Uniti nel 1945. Tornò nell'Unione Sovietica solo al fine della sua vita e morì nella capitale russa a 97 anni d'età. Anche se Konjonkov non visse quasi per niente a Smolensk, espresse tuttavia nel suo testamento la volonta che i suoi lavori migliori fossero conservati qui e così è stato in effetti fatto. Il museo raccoglie il meglio delle opere (principalmente in legno) di Konjonkov.
- 6 (Музей русской водки)ulitsa Studenčeskaja, ☎ 7 4812 38 13 82. Il museo è un'appendice del raffinato ristorante ospitato nella torre Pjatnickaja.
- 7 Museo M.K. Teniševoj (Музей им. М.К. Тенишевой), ulitsa Teniševoj, 7. Il museo ospita la parte restante della collezione di arte applicata, raccolta un tempo da Maria Klavdievnaja Teniševa.
- 8 Galleria d'arte (Художественная галерея), ulitsa Kommunističeskaja, 4, ☎ 7 4812 38-06-95, 7 4812 38-74-41. 100 rubli. Mar-Mer-Sab 10:00-18:00, Gio 11:00-19:00, Ven 10:00-17:00,. Tipico museo d'arte russo di second'ordine al quale è, però, riuscito di risolvere il problema dello squallore delle collezioni e della mancanza di spazio. Troverete la tipica scelta di artisti russi del XIX secolo e alcune opere stranieri di cui non avrete mai sentito nominare neanche il nome. Tuttavia, una parte importante e carina è quella relativa alla pittura russa del XX secolo del periodo pre e post rivoluzionario per visitare i quali trascorrerete qui all'incirca un'ora. Non di secondaria importanza è anche l'edificio del museo, un chiaro esempio d'architettura di Smolensk che un tempo fu una scuola professionale.
- 9 Lino di Smolensk (Смоленский лён), ulitsa Tuchačeskogo (presso la torre Nikol'skaja), ☎ 7 4812 38-16-11. Gio-Mar 10:00-18:00 (Ven fino alle 17:00). Esposizione di storia della lavorazione del lino, compresa una mostra sui telai. In più, visitando questo museo, sarà possibile visitare l'interno della torre Nikol'skaja.
- 10 Museo P.S. Nachimova (Музей им. П.С. Нахимова), ☎ 7 4812 38-09-17. Museo composto da sei sale, dedicato ai nativi di Smolensk diventati famosi per il loro legame per il mare. Una sale, in particolare, è dedicata all'ammiraglio Nachimova da cui il nome del museo.
50 rubli. 
Mar-Giov 10:00-18:00, Ven 10:00-17:00, Sab 10:00-18:00. A parte le mostre temporanee, il museo ospita due mostre permanenti a proposito dell'archeologia e della storia antica di Smolensk.Teatri
- 11 Teatro A.S. Griboedov (Драматический театр им. А.С. Грибоедова), ulitsa Lenina, 4.
- 12 Teatro e circolo Svetil'nikova (Театр кукол им. Д.Н. Светильникова), ulitsa Szeržinskogo, 15.
- 13 Teatro Kamernyj (Камерный театр), ulitsa Nikolaeva, 28.
- 14 Teatro Dialog (Театр-студия "Диалог"), ulitsa Lenina, 16.
Cinema
- Cinema Oktjabrja (Кинотеатр «Октябрь»), p.za Pobedy, 1.
- Cinema Sovremennik (Кинотеатр «Современник»), ulitsa Oktjabr'skoj Revolucii, 15.
- Cinema Rossija Premiere (Кинотеатр «Россия Premiere»), ulitsa Dzeržinskogo, 23.
- Cinema Smena (Кинотеатр «Смена»), ulitsa Barkalaj de Tolly, 5.
- Cinema, Krasnyj Partizan (Кинотеатр «Красный партизан»), ulitsa Kašena, 5.
- Cinema Maljutka (Кинотеатр «Малютка»), ulitsa Popova, 11.
Sport
Tra le attività sportive che ptorete fare a Smolensk, segnaliamo le seguenti:
- Jogging sul corso del Dnepr (Водные прогулки по Днепру).
- 15 Palazzo di ghiaccio (Ледовый дворец), ulitsa 25 Sentjabrja, 39. Palazzetto dello sport attrezzato per qualsiasi sport sul ghiaccio
Other
- 16 Centro culturale-espositivo Teniševa (Культурно-выставочный центр имени Тенишевых), ulitsa Prževal'skogo, 3. Il palazzo ospita mostre temporanee e al primo piano troverete una caffetteria con Wifi gratuito.
- 17 Filarmonica (Филармония).
- 18 Osservatorio astronomico (Планетарий), ulitsa Vojkova, 9. Lun-Ven 9-18, Sab 10-16.
- 19 Zoo di Smolensk (Смоленский зоопарк), ulitsa Pamfilova, 3b, ☎ 7 4812 55-21-96.
Shopping
Accanto ai tradizionali souvenir, i turisti dimostrano spesso un vivo interesse per la merce prodotta direttamente a Smolensk. Un tipico esempio sono gli abiti tipici in lino di Smolensk. Un altro settore, molto attivo qui, è l'industria di brillanti e gioielli prodotti nella fabbrica "Kristall".
- 1 [link not working]Smolenskij ZUM (Смоленский ЦУМ), ulitsa Oktjabr'skoj Revoljucii, 17. ZUM è l'abbreviazione russa per Central'nij Univermag ovvero: Centro commerciale centrale. Qui troverete un po' di tutto.
- 2 Casa del Libro (Dom Knigi) (Дом Книги), ulitsa Bol'šaja Sovetskaja, 12/1.
- 3 Lino di Smolensk (Смоленский лён), ulitsa Prževal'skogo, 6/35. Negozio specializzato per i manufatti in lino
- 4 Nina (Сеть магазинов «Нина»), ulitsa Neveroskogo, 1. Questa catena di negozi ha sedi in tutta la città; quello fornito è solo uno dei possibili negozi della catena.
- 5 Salone-Negozio Knjaginja (Салон-магазин «Княгиня»), ulitsa Dzeržinskogo, 8.
Markets
- Mercato del Kolchoz (Колхозный рынок), ulitsa Beljaeva, 1.
How to have fun
Night clubs
- 1 Nightclub Devjatyj val (Ночной клуб "Девятый вал"), ulitsa Rylenkova, 40.
- 2 Caffè Vasabin (Кафе "Васабин"), ☎ 7 4812 68-68-50.
Where to eat
Moderate prices
- 1 Caffè Pečki-Lavočki (Кафе «Печки-лавочки»), ulitsa Oktjabr'skoj Revoljucii, 9. Lun-Ven 8:00-01:00, Sab 11:00-01:00.
- 2 Caffè russkij dvor (Кафе «Русский двор») (nel parco Blon'e), ☎ 7 4812 68-39-99. 80 - 120 rubli. Dom-Giov 10:00-23:00 Ven-Sab 10:00-24:00. Tipico fast food russo in un edificio in stile russo. I prezzi sono un po' più alti dei soliti prezzi di un fast-food ma anche il cibo è di qualità e vario. Potrete gustare anche ottimi dessert russi.
- 3 Prirogovaja lavka Samovar (Пироговая лавка «Самовар»), ulitsa Lenina, 14, ☎ 7 4812 32-81-53. 60- 80 rubli. Aperto tutti i giorni 10:00-21:00. Anch'esso è un fast food, la sua specialità sono le pizze rustiche e panzerotti caldi. Al centro della sala c'è un enorme Samovar e attorno i tipici piatti caldi russi, dalle zuppe alle già citate pizze rustiche, insalate e piatti caldi.
- 4 Pizza Domino (Пицца Домино), ulitsa Gagarina, 1, ☎ 7 4812 38-47-50. 50 -150 rubli. 10:00-23:00. Questa catena di fast food la potrete trovare dappertutto a Smolensk. I prezzi e i menù non variano di molto tra le diverse sedi.
- Taverna Mandarinovyj gus' (Харчевня «Мандариновый гусь»). 80-120 rubli. Anche questa è una catena di taverne e fast food che troverete in diversi angoli della città. La sede principale è in ulitsa Oktjabr'skoj revoljucii, 7.
- 5 Caffè-club Čainoj kultury "Dvojnoe solce" (Кафе-клуб чайной культуры «Двойное солнце»), ulitsa Barklaja de Tolly, 7, ☎ 7 4812 63-02-20. Il nome tradotto significa letteralmente "Club della cultura del tè chiamato Doppio sole". Sebbene rientri quindi tra le caffetterie di Smolensk, qui è consigliato bere tè e non caffè- Gli usi sono quelli tipici orientali, dovrete sedervi sul pavimento coperto di tappeti e potrete partecipare all'antico rito orientale della preparazione e consumazione di diverse varietà di tè. Se poi vorrete anche mangiare qualcosina, il locale dispone anche di una raffinata cucina giapponese e indiana.
- 6 Caffetteria Vanil' (Кофейня «Ваниль»). a 100 rubli. Una delle tante buone caffetterie di Smolensk con una discreta scelta anche di cibi e dessert. Wifi incluso.
- 7 Caffetteria Terra (Кофейня «Терра»), ulitsa Gagarina, 3, ☎ 7 4812 37-72-22. 8:00-23:00. Modesta caffetteria in stile europeo.
- 8 Masterskaja Škokolada (Мастерская шоколада), ulitsa Novo-Moskovskaja, 2/8, ☎ 7 4812 40-96-60. 10:00-20:00. Oltre al tradizionale tè o caffè russo, potrete gustare dei dolci al cioccolato che come dice il nome del locale sono di produzione propria. Wifi gratuito.
Average prices
- 9 Smolenskaja krepost' (Ресторан «Смоленская крепость»), ulitsa Studenčeskaja, 4, ☎ 7 4812 38-13-82. 12:00-24:00. Il ristorante è quello più volte citato in precedenza, che si trova nell'antica torre della fortezza (la Pjatnickaja) accanto al museo della Vodka. Nonostante la posizione ottima e la caratteristica di trovarsi all'interno di un monumento storico, tuttavia la cucina qui non è delle migliori.
- 10 Caffetteria Želanie (Кафе «Желание»), ulitsa Bol'šaja Sovetskaja, 61 (non lontano dalla Chiesa di Svir'). Qui servono il migliore espresso italiano di Smolensk oltre a qualche buon dessert.
- 11 [link previously not working]Pizzeria "Ciao Italia" (Пиццерия «Чао Италия»), ulitsa Nikolaeva, 30, ☎ 7 4812 66-65-78. 200-300 rubli. Il nome rivela già di cosa si tratta. È un ristorante-pizzeria in stile italiano con un menù ricco di pasta e pizze. La qualità non è delle migliori ma i clienti si dicono soddisfatti. Wifi.
High prices
- 12 Ristorante Ya-Café (Ресторан Ya-cafe), ulitsa Nikolaeva, 23, ☎ 7 4812 32-09-84, 7 4812 40-41-11. a partire da 350 rubli. 10:00-01:00. Cucina variegata con piatti mediterranei, giapponesi e russi. L'interno è abbastanza spartano ma i pasti sono allietati da della buona musica jazz o lounge.
Where stay
Moderate prices
- 1 Hotel Deržava (Гостиница «Держава»), ulitsa Kašena, 5a, ☎ 7 4812 27-02-79, 7 4812 2702-92. da 1700 a 2300 rubli. Hotel discreto, i giudizi dei visitatori sono discordanti. In molte camere è incluso il Wifi gratuito.
- 2 Hotel Medlen (Гостиница "Медлен"), ulitsa Rumjanceva, 19, ☎ 7 4812 55-41-35. 1800 rubli (doppia). Non è esattamente quello che si dice uno splendido hotel ma almeno ha le basilari comodità e il Wifi.
- 3 [link previously not working]Hotel Patriot (Гостиница «Патриот»), ulitsa Kirova, 22g (mezz'ora a piedi dal centro città), ☎ 7 4812 38-49-36. 600 - 1700 rubli. Hotel costruito in un vecchio studentato per studenti. I prezzi variano di molto a seconda delle comodità che desiderate avere in camera. Complessivamente non è un cattivo hotel come potrebbe sembrare ad un primo sguardo. Le uniche critiche riguardano la disponibilità di acqua calda che, in Russia, è un bel problema. Wifi.
- 4 Hotel Ujut (Гостиница «Уют»), ulitsa Kozlova, 3A, ☎ 7 4812 38-30-16. 550 rubli. Discreto hotel per chi viaggia senza grandi pretese.
- 5 Ostello Fenix (Хостел «Феликс»), ulitsa Dzeržinskogo, ☎ 7 4812 40-10-32. 1000 rubli. Uno dei migliori ostelli della gioventù in città, fornisce stanze da 4 o 5 persone e c'è la possibilità di usufruire del Wifi e di una cucina in comune.
- 6 Hotel Nika (Отель «Ника»), prospekt Gagarina, 58, ☎ 7 4812 55-15-61. 1500 - 1700 rubli. Wifi gratuito. Buone recensioni.
Average prices
- 7 Apart hotel (Апарт-отель), ulitsa Bol'šaja Sovetskaja, 18, ☎ 7 4812 40-57-53. da 2000 rubli. Ottimi alloggi - studio al centro di Smolensk da affittare
- 8 Hotel Kristina-A (Гостиница «Кристина-А»), ulitsa Novo-Leningradskaja, 11, ☎ 7 4812 28-40-04. 2400-2600 rubli. Antico edificio, in passato è stata una fabbrica prima di essere trasformato in hotel. Nel complesso è un'ottima possibilità di alloggiare a Smolensk. Wifi gratuito.
- 9 Hotel Praga (Гостиница «Прага»), ulitsa Kripskoj, 64a, ☎ 7 4812 63-33-61. 2400 rubli. L'unico aspetto negativo è il continuo rumore che proviene dal ristorante di sotto fino a tarda notte.
- 10 Hotel Černaja Žemčužina (Гостиница «Чёрная жемчужина»), ulitsa Kolchoznaja, 48b, ☎ 7 4812 63-16-66. 2100 rubli.
- 11 [link not working]Hotel Kristina (Гостиничный комплекс «Кристина»), ☎ 7 4812 44-44-95. 2500-2700 rubli. Hotel completo di ristorante, sauna e sala giochi. Come aspetto negativo, segnaliamo la sua lontananza dal centro.
- 12 Hotel Usad'ba (Гостиничный комплекс «Усадьба»), ulitsa Bakunina, 2b, ☎ 7 4812 38-59-31. 2700-3500 rubli. Buon hotel a nord della città, in un quartiere tranquillo. L'unico aspetto negativo è l'assenza del Wifi nonostante sia incluso nel prezzo.
- 13 [link not working]Hotel Sem' Cholmov (Отель «Семь холмов»), ulitsa Smol'janinova, 5, ☎ 7 4812 20-95-74. 2700-3400 rubli. Hotel modesto, i prezzi sono un po' troppo alti rispetto al servizio offerto. Wifi gratuito.
- 14 [link not working]Hotel Sem'-sorok (Развлекательный комплекс «Семь-сорок»), ☎ 7 4812 20-94-94. 2500 rubli.
High prices
- 15 Hotel Aurora (Гостиница «Аврора»), ulitsa Bagrationa, 7a (in centro), ☎ 7 4812 35-50-05. 3700 rubli. L'hote, costuito di recente, è un ottimo alloggio a Smolensk con camere ben arredate. Dovrebbero solo migliorare l'assortimento della colazione. Wifi gratuito.
- 16 Hotel Novyj (Отель «Новый»), ulitsa Gubenko, 26 (all'entrata Nord di Smolensk), ☎ 7 4812 27-22-73. 3500 rubli. Le recensioni su questo Hotel non sono, purtroppo, per niente positive.
- 17 [link not working]Mini-hotel Chaplin (Мини-отель «Чаплин»), ulitsa Krupskoj, 64a, ☎ 7 4812 61-10-50. 4000 rubli. Hotel di sole sei stanze associato all'omonimo club.
- 18 Smolenskij Hotel (Смоленск Отель), ulitsa Lenina, 2/1 (in pieno centro), ☎ 7 4812 38-36-04. 4200 rubli.
- 19 Hotel Medvedev (Отель «Медведь»), ☎ 7 4812 27-00-28. 4500 rubli. Un ottimo e carino hotel di recente costruzione. Great reviews. Wifi.
- 20 [link not working]Complesso turistico Rossija (Туристический комплекс «Россия»), ulitsa Dzeržinskogo, 23, ☎ 7 4812 65-59-70. 3500 rubli. Hotel turistico bisognoso di restauri. Non consigliato.
Safety
Smolensk è una città abbastanza sicura in confronto alle altre città russe ed europee. L'unica avvertenza è di non intrattenersi con gente ubriaca e non passeggiare in periferia nelle ore notturne.
- Polizia dell'Oblast di Smolensk (УВД по Смоленской области), ulitsa Dzeržinskogo, 13.
- Polizia cittadina (УВД по г. Смоленску), ulitsa Popova, 20.
- I centrale di Polizia (УВД Ленинского района), ulitsa Gagarina, 15 (nel rione di via Lenin).
- II centrale di polizia (УВД Заднепровского района), ulitsa Novo-Moskovskaja, 3 (nel quartiere dell'oltre Dnepr).
- Polizia OVD (ОВД по Смоленскому району), ulitsa Lavočkina, 104.
How to keep in touch
Post office
- 3 Poste centrali (Главпочтамт), ulitsa Oktjabr'skoj Revoljucii, 6, ☎ 7 4812 38-53-02. Lun-Ven 8:00-22:00. Oltre ai normali servizi di un ufficio postale, c'è la possibilità di collegarsi a internet attraverso computer pubblici.
Telephony
Le maggiori compagnie telefoniche presenti sul territorio sono MTS, Bilajn, Megafon e Tele2.
Internet
- 4 Biblioteca centrale (Центральная библиотека), ulitsa Stroitelej, 24. Servizio di internet point
Around
- 5 Katin' (Катынь). accesso al memoriale 09:00-17:00. Katin' è un piccolo villaggio rurale a 18 km da Smolensk. Da non confondere con la città bielorussa Chatin'. Il nome del villaggio è collagato a uno degli eventi più mostruosi del XX secolo relativamente a questa zona. Nel 1930 il bosco fu presidiato dalla NKVD che in dieci anni uccisero più di quattromila soldati polacchi. In seguito, i tedeschi massacrarono sempre qui moltissimi soldati sovietici fatti prigionieri in guerra. Oggi si trova qui un complesso monumentale dedicato a queste stragi. Sempre sulla stessa strada per Katyn' si trova un museo con altri memoriali.
Gli autobus per Katyn partono da Smolensk, da piazza Kolchoznoj, in alternativa si può scegliere tra l'autobus 101 e il 136. Informatevi prima sugli orari perché non sono molti i viaggi effettuati su questo tragitto.
- 6 Gnjozdovo (Гнёздово). In questo sito troverete tracce di un antico insediamento del IX-XI secolo, tra i più grandi oggi conservatisi in europa occidentale. Molti ritengono che qui sorgesse l'antica Smolensk o per lo meno un importante centro medievale. Anche la natura attorno è qualcosa di meraviglioso e vi affascinerà. Ci si può arrivare in treno (dall'omonima stazione di Smolensk) o in autobus.
- 7 Fljonovo-Talaškino (Флёново-Талашкино) (Da Smolensk si può prendere l'autobus turistico 104 fino a Talaškino (ne partono ogni 20 minuti) e da qui partono molti autobus per Fljonovo). Si tratta di un altro villaggio a 15 km da Smolensk, sulla via per Roslavl', famoso per aver ospitato l'artista M.K. Teniševoj a cui è dedicato il museo nel centro di Smolensk. Il villaggio ha conosciuto la sua massima espansione tra il 1893 e il 1914 quando furono costruite una scuola e alcuni edifici moderni tra cui una chiesa. Durante le guerre mondiali, il villaggio fu il luogo scelto da molti artisti per rifugiarsi e lavorare in tranquillità, per quanto fosse possibile. A Talaškino, tuttavia, oggi vedrete ben poco. Molto è stato spostato a Smolensk e molto altro distrutto sul finire della II guerra mondiale. Maggiore interesse, invece, lo suscita il villaggio adiacente di Fljonovo a 2 km dal primo. Qui si trova una casa a due piani, affrescata e carina da vedere che fu completata da Sergej Maljutinym. Non lontano si trova la bellissima chiesa dello Spirito Santo, edificata nel 1902-1905. È davvero difficile classificare questa chiesa, opera di diversi autori, tra cui Ivan Barščevskij. Da notare sono i suoi mosaici, proprio all'entrata che rappresentano il Cristo. L'interno era alquanto insolito per una chiesa della zona, a quanto si racconta, ma la chiesa è stata ripetutamente danneggiata nel corso delle guerre. A parte altri edifici pubblici, non particolarmente importanti, non perdetevi i musei che completano quanto già esposto a Smolensk.
- 8 Novospasskoe (Родина композитора М.И. Глинки), ☎ 7 48146 4-15-31. Sab-Giov 10:00-17:00, Ven 10:00-16:00 per le escursioni. Novospasskoe, anche conosciuto come Patria di M.I. Glinki è un altro villaggio vicino Smolensk; qui nacque e trascorse la sua infanzia Glinki. È possibile vedere la fattoria in cui il grande compositore russo lavorò in gioventù, un parco, qualche fabbrica e la Chiesa principale.
- 9 Selco, Casa-museo Tvardovskogo (Сельцо, Дом-музей А. Твардовского), ☎ 7 48149 5-24-20. Il grande poeta Tvardovskij nacque nella fattoria Zagor'e, parzialmente distrutta dai bombardamenti. Oggi qui si trova un museo che organizza anche feste poetiche.
Ognuno dei sopraccitati luoghi può essere visitato nel giro di qualche ora. Se volete visitare qualcos'altro nei dintorni o semplicemente continuare questo itinerario rurale, sono consigliabili i seguenti posti:
- Vitebsk — Una delle città bielorusse più belle in assoluto e luogo di nascita di Marc Chagall. La città dista appena tre ore di viaggio in treno da Smolensk; se ne avete la possibilità non esitate ad andarci.
- Vjaz'ma — un'altra città antica della Russia in cui potrete visitare alcune testimonianze dell'antica civiltà rurale russa.
- Dorogobuž — città di campagna risalente al XII secolo ma completamente ricostruita dopo la guerra.
- Prževal'skoe (Пржевальское). Si tratta un parco nazionale con passeggiata ecologica. Nelle vicinanze troverete anche un museo dedicato alla gloria partigiana.
- Roslavl' è una tranquilla città sulla via che collega Smolensk a Brjansk. Non c'è nulla da fare qui se non visitare il bellissimo monastero del XIX secolo e ammirare alcuni edifici prerivoluzionari.
