Yangon - Yangon

Yangon, formerly known as Rangoon, is the former capital of Burma. The city today is an amalgam of Burmese and British colonial as well as Chinese and Indian influences. Yangon is known for its elegant colonial buildings, sadly now quite decadent. In 1990 the construction of modern skyscrapers began following the passing of a law that opened the country to foreign investment. Nonetheless, Yangon continues to be a city of the past as evidenced by the street stalls and its pungent smells.

To know

Background

Yangon was originally a village inhabited by the "Mon" ethnic group, known by the name of Dagon. The small town was later conquered by the Burmese king Alaungpaya who gave it the name of Yangon which means "the end of the conflict". It continued to be an unimportant center until the British conquest, when in 1850 it was assigned the role of capital under the name of Rangoon. The British drew up a new urban plan on the model of London. With the proclamation of Burma's independence in 1948, the city entered an era of isolation and political turmoil. In 1988 there was a peaceful demonstration for the return of the country to democratic freedoms in which thousands of people took part, mainly students but also Buddhist monks. The police did not hesitate to fire on the helpless crowd, causing many casualties. In 1989 the city resumed the old Burmese name of Yangon at the behest of the military junta. In 2005 the capital was moved to Pyinmana, in Mandalay region.

Aung San Suu Kyi and her NLD party are in favor of using the old name of Rangoon instead of Yangon as a badge of their democratic stance. Many Western governments also support the use of Rangoon to express their dissent from the ruling military junta.

Population

The majority of Yangon's population belongs to the Bamar ethnic group, dominant in the rest of the country. The most important minorities are the Chinese and the Indian, both established and enlarged over the course of the 19th century, at the time of British colonial rule. Other ethnic groups found in the city include the Shan and the Kayin. "Kabya" is a term used to indicate individuals of mixed races, which are very common in Yangon.

When to go

Yangon, located in the tropical zone, is subject to monsoon rains from February to October. The best time to visit is from November to January, months in which the temperatures drop as well as the humidity. But whoever wants to attend the Burmese New Year party, the Thigyan will have to come in April.

How to orient yourself

City Districts

Yangon is limited to the west and south by the river of the same name and to the east by the Bago River. The city develops in a longitudinal direction, from the airport area in the north, to the southern bank of the Yangon River with its center located exactly at the southern end. It is divided into 32 municipal districts (Myo-thit in Burmese)

• Center - The center proper develops on the banks of the Yangon River and is limited by the railway lines to the north, by the Pazundaung Chaung River to the east. Corresponds to the colonial-era city with streets crossing at right angles. Its heart is the square around "Sule Paya", the 46 m high golden-roofed pagoda. Sule Paya, considered the "0" mile from which all city distances are measured, is located at the intersection of Mahabandoola avenue which runs parallel to the river with "Sule Pagoda" which runs from the riverside (Strand) to the railway station. Among the municipalities that occupy the downtown area, the most interesting are:
• Lanmadaw - In this district at the western end of the center there are the docks from where the boats leave for Pathein, Mandalay, Bagan and other ports along the Irrawaddy River.
• Latha - Extending between 15th street and Sule Paya, this borough corresponds to Yangon's Chinatown (Ti'youht Tun). It is a commercial area with numerous shops arranged mostly on the very long Mahabandoola avenue.
• Kyauktada - The name of the district around Sule Paya with many buildings from the colonial era.
• Pabedan - The downtown area where the famous "Bogioke Aung San" market is located (formerly Scott market). It extends on the west side of the train station, near the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity.
• Little India (Kalah Tun) - Extends east of Sule Paya.
• Dagan - The district north of the center, beyond the railway lines where Shwedagon Paya, the most famous of the city's pagodas, is located.
• Bahan - A district scattered with hotels, always north of the center, between Kandawgyi and Inya lakes. The Italian embassy is located here.

How to get

By plane

The international airport, located 30 minutes north of Yangon, is the main entry point for Western tourists. Direct flights to Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore is Taipei.
You shouldn't allow your luggage to be carried by improvised porters who wander around the airport not so much because they will ask you excessive prices for their service but because you will not shake them off anymore. These individuals particularly flock to the domestic flight terminal.

If you have problems with customs inspectors, they are easily solved by giving money, a kind of tax known as "the tea tip." Other makeshift porters await outside the airport, so you have to keep an eye on your luggage if you don't want to see it disappear in a flash.

On the train

Yangon Central Station is located at the bottom of the boulevard of Sule Pagoda.

The journey to Mandalay, about 650 km away, takes 15 hours by express train, barring unforeseen circumstances. The express is the only train to consider as all the others are extremely slow. It is distinguished by the yellow color of the locomotive. The train Yangon - Mandalay has intermediate stops in Bago, Taungoo, Pyinmana (Naypyitaw), Thazi. The price of the upper class berth is $ 50. The ordinary class seat costs $ 15 or $ 11 depending on the train.

On the Yangon stretch - Naypyidaw, the new capital of the country was recently inaugurated (2007) a daily train service that leaves at 07:30 and arrives at 16:15. The one-way ticket costs 1800 K in higher class, half if traveling in ordinary class. However, these are rates that apply to locals and not to foreigners to whom a surcharge is imposed which is difficult to escape.

Beyond the Yangon Main Line - Mandalay, there are other lines departing from Yangon but very few foreigners use them. In fact, Burmese trains are not reliable on secondary lines as there have been some fatal accidents in the past. Delays are also on the agenda. However, here they are listed:

• Yangon - Bagan - The journey takes more than 21 hours! The first class ticket costs about $ 30, the ordinary class ticket $ 11. The service is not daily and has perhaps been repealed.
• Yangon - Shwenyaung (Inle Lake) - You change trains at the station Thazi where it will probably be necessary to stay overnight. From here to get to Inle lake it takes 9 hours. This section of the railway is famous for winding through beautiful landscapes. The price is $ 7 or $ 3 depending on whether you are traveling in upper or ordinary class.
• Yangon - Mawlamyine (Moulmein) - The train makes intermediate stops a Bago, Kyaikto (where the famous pagoda is located) and in Moatama (Martaban)
• Yangon - Pyay - Trains on this line depart from Kyemyindine station and not the central station. The journey takes 11 hours and the ticket costs 15 or 6 $ depending on the class chosen.

By bus

Avoid taking state company suburban buses which, in addition to being run down, are slow to exasperation. Private company buses, while costing more, are far more comfortable. However, much higher rates are applied to foreigners than to locals. The "Leo Express" company has a good reputation for having modern air-conditioned buses and on-board food and beverage service. The icing on the cake, this company is the only company that does not apply surcharges of any kind to foreigners. Reservation is mandatory and in some cases must even be made 4-5 days in advance, especially if you want to travel with the Leo express. Many private companies have their offices near the central train station so you don't have to go to the stations that are very out of the way to book and buy tickets.

Yangon has two suburban bus stations:

• Saw Bwar Gyi Gone - This is the name of Yangon's main suburban bus station. It is located approximately 4 km from the international airport and 18 km from the city center. It serves many northern destinations with frequent trips to Mandalay (16 hours), Bagan, Taunggyi. Many long-haul buses leave at 5pm to arrive at their destination early in the morning. Less buses that leave at 07:00 to arrive in the evening. At this station, the urban bus nº 51 ends, which costs a trifle (20k plus 10k for luggage). Actually you have to take a taxi because the bus is always packed with people. This station is rather seedy and at the mercy of the dust.
• Aung Mingalar Station - Serves the destinations of Bago is Kyaiktyio. From the center you can take bus n. 43 otherwise a taxi for a sum 100 times higher but still modest (about 2000k).

On boat

The piers from where the boats that will go up the Irrawaddy river leave (or Ayeyarwady) and other watercourses at a time of Bagan, Mandalay, etc. they are all located in the Lanmadaw borough, west of Sule Paya and Chinatown.

Inland Water Transport (IWT) is the state-controlled shipping company that manages the connections from Yangon to some inland river ports but also to some coastal locations such as Kawthoung.

While it is an extremely pleasant experience, few visitors take a boat trip for their long-range journeys (how Bagan or Mandalay). These vehicles, still called vapors even if they run on diesel, are in fact too slow and during the dry season some unexpected events may occur. Connections to ports on the Andaman Sea (Dawey, Myeick, Kawthoung) are quite random especially in the rainy season. The crossing by ship is however magnificent, especially in the last stretch, when you pass between the numerous islands of the archipelago Mergui. Hopefully it lasts two days and two nights.

It should also be noted that there are no fixed times and these are learned a few days before at the offices of the two companies at the Lammadaw docks. Employees present several difficulties to foreigners who come to their counters with the intention of making the crossing up to Kawthoung so it is good to use local knowledge able to extricate yourself from the shackles of the local bureaucracy.

How to get around

It is possible to walk the streets of the city but you have to be careful especially when crossing the streets, often without traffic lights.

By taxi

Taxis are easily available because they are too expensive for the locals. It is always necessary to agree on the fare in advance. However, the drivers are generally honest and can be made available to you for a full day at quite affordable prices.

By car

Never groped to get behind the wheel of a car in Yangon because traffic is very dangerous and severe penalties are foreseen in the event of an accident. The use of motorcycles and bicycles is prohibited and the infringement of the law entails high fines.

What see

Religious buildings

• Shwedagon Paya - The main pilgrimage destination in Burma is this Buddhist stupa whose golden dome reaches a height of 100 meters. Inside the pagoda there is a relic and precisely a lock of hair which, according to popular belief, belonged to the Buddha. The entrance to the pagoda is subject to a fee. There is an elevator that takes you up to the base of the stupa.
• Vijaya Paya - Near Shwedagon Paya stands this stupa, the construction of which dates back to 1980.
• Sule Paya - Located in the center of Yangon, this octagonal stupa also houses another lock of hair that is believed to have belonged to the Buddha
• Cathedral of Santa Maria - The Catholic cathedral with a nice interior
• St. Paul's Cathedral - One of the two Anglican cathedrals built at the time of the English domination.
• Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue - Located at 86 of 26th Street, it is the only synagogue in Yangon. It was built in 1893 and its interior is well preserved.
• Mailamu Paya -

Parks

• Zoo - Opened in 1906, it houses specimens of the country's rich fauna. On the occasion of public holidays, the elephant circus and the snake dance are held here. The zoo is open from 08:00 to 18:00.
• The Mahabandoola Gardens - They are located in the city center between the Sule Paya side and the riverside. They are famous for their magnificent rose gardens. The obelisk-shaped monument to independence is located in the center of the park. All around are colonial buildings in some of which the embassies of theIndia and of United States of America.
• The People's Park - Near Shwedagon Paya. It is famous for its fountains. It closes at 7pm and you pay something to access it.
• Inya Lake - The largest of the lakes that dot the city of Yangon, it is surrounded by a park where the University buildings and the famous Inya Lake hotel are located. Many private villas belong to members of the military junta that governs the country with an iron fist.
• Kandawgyi Lake - Known in colonial times as Victoria Lakes, it has an oval shape and foreigners who wish to access it have to pay something. At the southwestern end of the lake is the Karaweik Palace built in the shape of an ancient Burmese royal boat while in its northwestern corner is Bogyoke Aung San Park accessible from Natmauk Street.
• Mausoleum of the Martyrs - Erected to commemorate the assassination of General Aung San and 6 members of his government. The monument sits on the top of a hill alongside Shwedagon Paya and offers beautiful views of the city below.

Miscellaneous

• Aung San Suu Kyi's house - It is located on University Avenue near the shores of Lake Inya. There are many foreign tourists who out of curiosity go to see the residence of the only leader who has been able to undermine the military junta that has ruled the country with an iron fist for decades. The villa is fenced with barbed wire and is guarded by military police forces. The traffic on this section of the avenue has been diverted and the visit remains a bit difficult due to the checkpoints that also prohibit pedestrian traffic.
• National Museum - It is located at 26 Pansodan Street and houses collections of artifacts from the Burmese era. It is open from 10:00 to 15:00 and closes on Saturdays and Sundays.
• Strand Hotel, at 92 Strand Road is the most famous (and also the most expensive) of hotels in Burma. It was built in 1901 in a neo-classical style.

Events and parties

What to do

Shopping

Yangon offers a lot of deals to tourists on the hunt for local handicrafts but you have to be skilled in dealing. However, the prices charged to foreigners are high.

Yangon is also a good place to have a custom-made shirt with a traditional Burmese collar. Prices are moderate, much more than a Hong Kong (6 USD) but you have to wait 4-5 days for the garment to be ready.

• Bogyoke Aung San (formerly Scott Market) - This market is the most famous in Yangon and the shops inside display numerous handicrafts such as lacquered coffee tables and carved wooden objects. However, the lacquering is not done according to the techniques of the past and comes off easily.
• Chinatown - Another place to shop is the local Chinatown, teeming with all kinds of shops. It is possible to find souvenirs of all kinds, from colonial-era coins to jewelery.
• Shwedagon Paya - In the entrance hall, there are many studio-apartments selling Burmese antiques, including paper mache owls, wood-carved statues and Buddha.

There are several shopping malls in Yangon, such as the Dagon Center and the IMF Center. Many of the items sold come from Thailand and from China, and they usually have fixed prices.

How to have fun

Most of the night clubs are located inside the big hotels. The Music Club is housed in the Grand Plaza hotel, Paddy O'Malley's in Sedona, BME1 at Yangon International and the Pioneer at Yuzana Garden. Karaoke, bar and disco clubs such as Asia, JJ's and 225 are abundant among the places where the local youth love to entertain. These places are generally open from 11pm to 3am and admission costs between three and five dollars. the consummation (local beer in general) you pay an extra one or two US dollars.

Where to eat

Moderate prices

• 999 Shan Noodle Shop, 34th street, 130. ~ 1000 K. Chinese dishes. 
• Feel, Pyihtaungsu Avenue, 124 (In the Dagon district). ~ 2,000 K. Traditional Burmese cuisine with spicy dishes. Wide choice of salads and fries. 
• Kyet Shar Soon Biriani (franchises in Mingalar Taung Nyunt, Pabedan and Kyauktada Townships). ~ 700 K. Offers a biryani dish with a Burmese accent. 
• YKKO, Via Seikkanthar, 286 (In the municipality of Kyauktada). A well-known and good restaurant whose main dish is the kyei-o, a kind of noodles in broth. Seikkanthar Street is a parallel to Sule Paya, three blocks to the east. 
• Street vendors (In Little India). ~ 200 K. They sell french fries, samosas, onion balls, and other Indian snacks. 

Average prices

• Karaweik Buffet Restaurant (Kandawgyi Lake). 7,500 K / person. A buffet restaurant inside the Karaweik boat, offers a wide selection of Asian dishes and a 1 hour cultural show from 19:30 to 20:30. 

High prices

• Strand Hotel, Stand Rd, 92. High Tea ~ 15 $. An interesting experience is to take a High Tea at the Strand Hotel. This tea has an astronomical cost for ordinary Burmese people, but is served in the restaurant of one of the classic examples of the Colonial Hotel in Southeast Asia. You can choose between Burmese or English high tea. 

Where stay

Tourist accommodation in Yangon is generally cheap although foreign tourists are charged a higher rate than locals. You can easily pay your bill in euros or dollars. The hotels all belong to members of the military junta even if some have been leased to private individuals for a maximum period of 30 years.

Moderate prices

• Panda (At the intersection of Wadan Street & Min Ye Kyaw Swa Road). From $ 25. The Panda Hotel, close to Yangon's Chinatown, consists of 117 rooms. 
• Thamada, Via Alan Pya Paya, 5. From $ 25. An old hotel near the train station with 58 rooms. 
• ^{[link not working]}Yuzana Garden, Alan Pya Paya, 44 (Near Bogyoke Aung San market). From 30 USD. Yuzana Garden consists of 12 rooms and houses a famous nightclub, the Pioneer. 
• Classique Inn, Golden Valley Road, 53 (B) (In the embassy district about a mile from the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, right on the side of the embassy of the Bahrain), ☎ 951525557. Double 25 USD (August 2006). It is a very quiet hotel with walls decorated in lacquered teak wood. A few minutes away is the "Bogalay Mohenga Shop", a place where the typical Burmese breakfast is served consisting of rice noodles in a vegetable soup. 

Average prices

• Traders, Via Sule Pagoda, 223. From 70 USD. A very central hotel with 403 rooms. 
• ^{[link not working]}Dusit Inya Lake, Via Kaba Aye Pagoda, 37. From 55 USD. A Russian-run hotel on the shores of Lake Inya. 176 rooms overlooking the lake. 
• Nikko Royal Lake, Natmauk Road, 40. From 55 USD. A 10-story, 310-room hotel near Kandawgyi Lake. 
• Sedona, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, 1. From $ 60. This Burmese-style hotel near Inya Lake consists of 366 rooms. 
• Grand Plaza Park Royal, Alan Pya Paya Road, 33. From 45 USD. 70 USD for rooms located on the 8th floor (Orchid floor) with breakfast and laundry service included. The Grand Plaza Park Royal is a 5-star hotel in the heart of Yangon. It has 359 rooms. 

High prices

• The Strand ', Via Strand, 92 (On the riverside, in the center). From $ 450. A 5-star colonial-style hotel built on the initiative of the Sarkies brothers in 1906. It was nationalized in 1963 but in 1995 it was sold to the Indonesian entrepreneur Adrian Zecha who carefully restored it, bringing the building back to its colonial splendor. 
• ^{[link not working]}The Governor's Residence, Taw Win Road, 35. From 140 USD. An old mansion with teak interior completely renovated and restored with 48 rooms. Located in one of Yangon's most exclusive neighborhoods. 
• Savoy, Dhammazedi Road, 129 (Near Shwedagon Paya). From 100 USD. A completely renovated hotel. 

Safety

Prior to 2005 Yangon was considered one of the safest metropolises in the whole of Southeast Asia but since that year there has been an increase in the muggings perpetrated against tourists. Some were even attacked with knives while walking down the street. For these reasons it is not recommended to wander in dark or isolated places.

Political attacks have also increased since 2005. Bombs were detonated in May of that year in three shopping centers in the city, Dagon, Junction 8 Shopping Mall and City Mart. More than 200 people suffered more or less serious injuries. Also in 2005, in October a bomb exploded inside the Traders hotel, fortunately without serious consequences. The latest in this series of attacks dates back to January 15, 2007 when an envelope exploded in the central post office near Sule Paya.

Avoid talking about local politics with people you just met. There are many plainclothes officers who watch the tourists.

Prostitution and drug trafficking are illegal activities under criminal law. The code provides for the death penalty for smuggling drugs even in small quantities. The fact that prostitution is prohibited does not mean that it does not exist. Girls who prostitute themselves are easily found in night clubs even in those inside large hotels or in the lowest Karaoke clubs but we must keep in mind that AIDS and venereal diseases are rampant in Yangon and that very few bother to undergo medical tests.

A necessary precaution, if you intend to leave Yangon for other tourist destinations in Burma, is to register on the site "Where we are in the world", especially if you are traveling individually. The headquarters of our diplomatic mission is located at No. 3 of Inya Myaing Road. Tel .: 95 1 527100. fax: 95 1 514565. Website^{[link not working]}. Keep in mind that in the event of an arrest, the Burmese authorities will not notify the Italian embassy.

Health prevention

Tap water is not suitable for drinking. The hot-humid climate of the city makes it imperative, when you go around, to always carry supplies of bottles of water with you.

Tuberculosis and AIDS afflict a considerable percentage of the city population.

Health service

The NHS leaves much to be desired and even a bribe has to be paid to enter state hospitals. Nonetheless, Yangon General Hospital is known for its inefficiency and poor condition. The alternative is constituted by the numerous private clinics but, being the high prices, it is necessary to safeguard oneself with an insurance policy signed in Italy.

Public toilets

Hotels, shopping centers and restaurants make their toilets available. Almost always, however, these are Turkish toilets. The toilets located near the main monuments should be avoided as far as possible.

How to keep in touch

Around

• Allied War Memorial Cemetery - A war cemetery in Htaukyanta 32 km north of Yangon. There are buried 27,000 soldiers of the Commonwealth forces who perished in the years of World War II fighting against the Japanese who had invaded Burma.
• Thanlyin (former Syriam) - Location south of Yangon where there are the ruins of a Portuguese church from the 18th century and another dedicated to the Sacred Heart and built in 1870 by French missionaries.
• Kyauktan - Contains Ye Le Paya, is located on a small island on the Hlaing River. It is close to Thanlyin and is accessible by boat.
• Pegu (or Bago) - Located north of Yangon, it is a large city known for its pagodas and temples. Accessible via Myanmar's main highway.
• Pathein (or Bassein) - Located west of Yangon, one night by ferry. It is famous for its paper umbrellas and impressive religious buildings.

Other projects

• Wikipedia contains an entry concerning Yangon
• Commons contains images or other files on Yangon
• Wikiquote contains quotes from or about Yangon

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