Faroe Islands - Islas Feroe

Introduction The Faroe Islands (Føroyar in Faroese, Færøerne in Danish) is an archipelago made up of 18 islands in the middle of the North Atlantic, to the north of Scotland and halfway between Iceland Y Norway. Politically, it forms an administrative territory of the Kingdom of Denmark. These isolated islands, covered by rugged mountains and inhabited by large colonies of animals, are an interesting destination for those who want to venture in the vicinity of the Arctic Circle.

Capital Torshavn Idiom Faroese Y Danish Surface 48 351 km² Population 1399 (2012) Currency Faroese crown Time zone UTC (UTC 1 in summer) Telephone prefix 298

Understand

The cliffs of the south coast of the island of Suðuroy.

The Faroe Islands are a group of rugged islands located in the northernmost part of the Atlantic Ocean, a few hundred kilometers from Iceland, Scotland Y Norway. Its population does not exceed 50,000 inhabitants, but this does not mean that the islands are uninhabited: some 70,000 sheep roam its hills and over 2 million birds of different species live on its coasts. Its green hills and cliffs, its coasts whipped by strong winds and the small fishing villages that this archipelago has are an ideal destination for those who seek to get away from the hectic life of the city. The Faroese natural settings attract more people every year determined to explore them, whether on foot, by bicycle or on horseback. On many occasions, the mist covers the hills and gives it a mystical aspect, in which one can feel inside an ancient legend. In 2007, the magazine National Geographic Traveler listed the Faroe Islands as one of the most attractive island destinations in the world.

Due to its geographical location, the tourist season in the Faroe Islands is really short: it begins in May and ends in September. If you want to avoid the busiest season, it is better to visit the islands in May or early June, but do not expect very high temperatures even if it is summer. As the islands brush against the Arctic CircleThe sunlight varies according to the seasons, the sun hardly sets during the summer so it only leaves a couple of hours of semi-darkness; in winter, on the other hand, there are only 5 hours with sunlight and the rest is at night.

The Faroes are primarily engaged in the fishing industry, being one of the smallest independent economic entities in the world. About 80% of exports come from this industry. Tourism has been growing slowly and is already the second most important economic activity in the country, followed by the production of wool and other manufactures. Despite the extremely low level of unemployment, the Faroese population is currently facing the dilemma of its future: although the fishing industry is buoyant, it is less and less popular among young people to work there and they prefer to dedicate themselves to public service and other activities in their towns, which however due to their small population have a limited number of jobs.

History

Part of the Viking heritage is reflected in this dragon-headed figurehead on a boat for the practice of the traditional Havnarbáturin.

Although there is evidence showing the existence of human life on the islands around the 4th century, it was only in the 9th century that the Faroes were permanently inhabited by Viking settlers. The saga Færeyinga relates that Grimur Kamban, of probable origin hiberno-nordic, would have reached the islands around the year 825. A new wave of settlers, coming from Norway, arrived around 890. The original Viking community created in the 10th century a small commonwealth led by a parliament called Løgting and that it was dedicated to the export of fish and sheep wool with the rest of the Nordic coasts. The name Feroe would come from old norseFær-øer, "Island of sheep."

At the beginning of the 11th century, the king Olaf I from Norway decided to convert the local population to Christianity. Your main agent, Sigmundur Brestisson he was assassinated in 1005; his headstone in Skúvoy It is one of the most important monuments in the archipelago. It was finally during the government of Olaf II that the Faroes were converted and subjected to the rule of Norway. In 1035, the archipelago belonged to the fiefdom of the Norwegian Leivur Øssursson, which ended the Viking era. However, the remoteness of these lands from their feudal lord allowed the Faroese to maintain their autonomy.

The grave of Sigmundur Brestisson in Skúvoy (located on the left of the image).

The Black Death, the hardening of the climate and the succession of trade regulations generated an increase in poverty in the territory and the economy suffered. Many farmers had to cede their land to the church and the islands became increasingly dependent on the metropolis. In 1397, Norway, Denmark Y Sweden they achieved the unification of their kingdoms; the pact did not last much more than a century and in 1523 it was dissolved. Although legally they were two countries of equal importance, Norway was subjected to Denmark and its colonies (including the Faroes) came to be administered directly by the Danish government.

A monopoly on trade was established on the islands, which were also ravaged by pirates. The Danish King Christian III forced the adoption of Lutheranism and the Catholic Cathedral of the Faroes was demolished. In 1817, the Danish advance on the territory was more aggressive, dissolving the Løgting and turning the archipelago into a amt or county, equal to one in continental territory. The Danish language was established as compulsory to the detriment of Faroese. In 1850 the Faroese would have a little more autonomy by sending two deputies to the Danish Congress, and in 1852 the Løgting it was reinstated, though only as an advisory body.

The bases of a former British artillery post. For the United Kingdom, controlling the Faroes was essential to prevent a Nazi invasion of their lands.

Towards the end of the 19th century, the development of new fishing techniques allowed access to the deep waters of the Atlantic and the establishment of industrial fishing, improving the commercial performance of the islands. This new economic boom served as a platform for the locals' wishes for autonomy and independence. During the WWII, the United Kingdom invaded the Faroe Islands to prevent a conquest by the Nazi Germany, which had already occupied Denmark. The British government allowed the development of local government and the Løgting he assumed legislative power, which was well received by the Faroese. At the end of the war, the islands were returned to liberated Denmark, but the locals approved the islands' independence in a narrow referendum. Denmark rejected the plebiscite and dissolved the government. After new elections, the anti-independence parties obtained a majority in the Løgting and they approved a law of local self-government, with the support of the metropolis.

The new autonomy that the Faroes received has allowed them to handle all matters of the territory, with the exception of justice, defense, foreign relations and currency. Even the Faroes refused to join the European Union when Denmark did it in 1973. However, not all Faroese are happy with this situation: today, about half of the inhabitants are in favor of independence and the other half prefer to maintain relations with Denmark. This proportion tends to vary according to the local situation: in the 1980s, autonomist wishes became more popular as a result of the economic boom, but the fishing crisis of the 1990s significantly reduced this support and local banks had to request financial support from the metropolis .

Geography and climate

Thousands of bird colonies are located along the steep cliffs of the Faroes.

The Faroes are an archipelago of volcanic origin located in the middle of the North Atlantic. It is a territory quite isolated from the rest of the world: it is located 260 kilometers from the coast scottish, about 450 km of Iceland, 670 km of Norway and 990 km from mainland Denmark.

The 18 islands that make up this archipelago are rugged and rocky, separated by fjords. The greatest distance from the coast that can be reached on the islands is about 5 kms. The largest island, Streymoy, has an area of ​​373.5 km², followed in size by Eysturoy (286) and To wander (177.6). The fourth most populated is at the same time the southernmost: Suðuroy.

The islands have a maritime climate, similar to their neighboring countries, but much more unpredictable. It can change very quickly, going from times when the sun is shining to thick fog or pouring rain. The temperature is somewhat warmer than places at the same latitude, going from a daily average of 0.3 ° C in January and 11.1 ° C in August, with an annual average of 6.7 ° C. The thermal range is very low, with mild summers and cold winters. During the summer the islands tend to have a lot of fog. It usually snows although it does not settle for long on the ground. Wind currents are usually strong.

The natural vegetation of the Faroe Islands is usually composed of arctic plants, grasses, mosses and lichens. Most of the low areas are grasslands and in some cases, minor shrubs. The natural vegetation is characterized by the absence of trees. The fauna of the region stands out for the great variety of birds, mainly marine. Few mammals exist in the Faroes, all introduced by humans (mainly sheep, hares and rats). The gray seals They are very common on the coasts and around them, there are usually some cetaceans. The most common is pilot whale.

Regions

Map of the Faroe Islands.

Norðoyar
	Historically, the Northern Isles have been considered a unique district among the Faroes. It is made up of the islands of Fugloy, Svinoy, Viðoy, Borðoy, Kunoy Y Kalsoy. This is where the harsh climate and volcanic origins of the islands are most evident. The fjords are the protagonists and allow Viðareiði it is possible to observe the Atlantic on both sides of the town, while the height of the cliff of the Cape Enniberg impresses your visitors. Klaksvík It is an important industrial center and the second largest city in the archipelago, although it is also famous for its music festival.
Central islands
	The island of To wander, where the airport is located, is the gateway to the territory to later reach the island of Streymoy, the largest and most populated in the territory. Here is the capital Torshavn, operational center of the island and where you can see the public buildings and their museums. In the northern part of the island is Vestmanna, the main attraction of the islands: thousands of people come to see the local fauna along its cliffs. South of Tórshavn, meanwhile, is the ancient cathedral of Kirkjubøur. Separated by a narrow fjord, it is Eysturoy, the steepest of all the islands. In it, there is the highest point, Slættaratindur, perfect for climbing. In addition, it has hot springs, lakes and other natural wonders. In front of Tórshavn is the small island of Nólsoy, where its bird colonies and the Ovastevnu festival stand out.
Sandoyar and Suðuroy
	The southernmost islands, where still must be accessed by ferry, are home to some of the most historic places in the archipelago. Sandur, the capital of the island of Sandoyar, is home to an 11th century church. From this island it is possible to sail to the historic Skúvoy. At the southern end is the island of Suðuroy, ideal for tours of trekking to the lake Hvannhagi to the north of Tvøroyri or the cliffs around Vágur.

To get

An airplane approaching Vágar airport.

The main means of transport to reach the islands is by air. The only airport on the island is the Vágar Airport, on the island of the same name. The local airline Atlantic Airways is the only one that flies to the Faroes, connecting them with a varied number of destinations (in italics, seasonal flights during the summer):

There are two daily flights from Copenhagen, with tickets departing from 2000 kr. round trip, approximately.

Keep in mind that many times, especially in summer, fog covers the airport runways and causes flights to be canceled or diverted until the weather improves. Count on an extra couple of days if you travel to the Faroe Islands in case you experience a fog delay.

There is also an alternative by sea. Smyrill Line offers ferry and cruise services from Hirtshals on the Danish coast. The company offers various tourist packages, also reaching Iceland. There are several options: shared rooms, singles, doubles and family, upload a car or luxury bedrooms. As a reference, a round trip for a couple in low season can cost between € 650 Y € 1200 approximately, depending on the quality of the room. The 36-hour trip takes place once a week in low season and twice a week in high season.

Travel

Despite its geography, the transport infrastructure makes it easy to communicate with a large part of the archipelago.

Despite being a rugged archipelago, the Faroe Islands have excellent connectivity that allows the removal of most of the physical barriers between the islands. The two largest islands, Streymoy and Eysturoy, are linked by the Sundabrúgvin Bridge, while two underwater tunnels connect Vágar with Streymoy and Eysturoy with Borðoy. From this last island there are two causeways that cross the fjords and connect with Viðoy and Kunoy. This system allows most of the islands to be permanently connected, making it very easy to navigate much of the archipelago. Submarine tunnels cost about 130 kr. for vehicles less than 6 m long and 3,500 kg in weight, and 350 kr. for superiors. To cancel the use of the tunnel, you must go to any gas station within 3 days after crossing the tunnels.

For the islands that do not have a road connection, there is a very good ferry service. From Tórshavn you can take ferries to Tvøroyri in Suðuroy and the nearby island of Nólsoy; A little further south of Tórshavn, near Kirkjubøur, is Gamlarætt which is where boats leave for Hestur and Skopun on the island of Sandoy. Once in Sandoy, you must go to the south coast and take the ferry in Sandur to cross to Skúvoy. In addition, there are short ferries from Klaksvík to Kalsoy and from Nordðepil to the islands of Svínoy and Fugloy. It is advisable to get the schedule with all the ferries on the islands, although you can check the available online. Arrive at least 15 minutes in advance to get your car onto the ferry smoothly, while passengers must arrive up to 5 minutes in advance.

The ferry heading to Skopun, Sandoy.

If you are driving, remember to follow the rules of the road. The maximum speed for cars is 80 km / h in rural areas and 50 km / h in urban areas; must be with the lights on and wear a seat belt. Be careful with sheep that may come out from both sides of the road; in many cases, they use tunnels to sleep and can cause accidents. In the cities of Tórshavn, Klaksvík and Runavík, there are restricted parking lots. In order to park you must purchase a "disk" at banks and tourist offices, which you must place in the lower right corner of your windshield with the time you parked your car. The fines for violating this rule is about 200 kr.. In Tórshavn and Vágar airport there are several car rental places if you want to buy one.

Public transport is a very good option for those who wish to visit the various corners of the archipelago. With its characteristic blue color, the Bygdaleiðir intercity bus system offers several options for touring the Faroes, reaching everywhere although with different frequencies. You can buy the full schedule of buses and ferries at the tourist offices or bus stations (Ferðaætlan), very useful for walking around the Faroes. Public transport is quite expensive, so look for ways to optimize its cost. You can take advantage of student or senior discounts, if you qualify in those groups. For tourists, it is convenient to buy a card valid for four days for all means of transport. Within Tórshavn, there are four urban bus lines, at no cost to their users. These red buses run every half hour during the day and every hour at night; however, they do not work on Saturdays and Sundays, which is quite difficult for tourists.

If you want to get there even faster, an alternative is helicopters. During the summer months, Atlantic Airways offers helicopters to various Faroese towns, although you must book in advance and does not operate return flights on the same day.

To buy

Tórshavn, the capital, is also the archipelago's main commercial center.

The islands are an expensive destination, mainly due to their isolation. Tórshavn, Klaksvik and, to a lesser extent, Runavík are important centers of consumption for those who wish to stock up on their journey through the Faroes. The opening and closing hours of the stores are similar to the rest of Europe, although on Saturday they usually close around 2:00 p.m. and on Sunday they are closed.

The most typical thing to buy are the wool sweaters, jackets, hats and gloves in the style of the Faroes. The most popular stores are Sirri and Guðrun og Guðrun, while the only proper shopping center is Sølumiðstøð (SMS), which contains some branches of international chains and a supermarket.

Prices usually include VAT, which is 25%, so you will finally pay what appears in the display case. If you come from outside the European Union or Scandinavia, you can request a VAT refund when leaving the country.

The legal tender is the Danish crown (DKK), known as krone in Danish and króna in Faroese. There are half crown coins (50 øre or oyra), 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 crowns, while the banknotes are 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 crowns. The Faroe Islands produce their own set of tickets, valid throughout the archipelago. While the notes and coins produced in Denmark are legal tender on the islands, Faroese notes are not recognized outside of them, so it is recommended to exchange them at exchange houses free of charge before leaving.

To eat

A plate of tvøst og spik: pilot whale meat, dried fish and potatoes. In the middle, pieces of whale blubber.

The cuisine of the islands consists mainly of meat, either lamb or fish, being a true reflection of how harsh the climate is in the archipelago. Although traditional archipelago food dishes are difficult to find in most restaurants, even some tourist-oriented places serve these dishes.

Within the traditional food, you can find the following dishes:

• Puffins fillings, usually served with potatoes and various berries.
• The skjerpikjøt, dried lamb that has been hung for over a year and eaten raw.
• The ræst kjøt It is stuffed beef by hanging it for several months before cooking. The ræstan fisk It is made in a similar way, but with fish.
• Turrur fiskur or dried fish.
• Tvøst og spik, made with whale meat and blubber. Whale meat is a central part of Faroese cuisine, and hunting is carried out to obtain it, known as grindadráp.

There are several restaurants, mainly in Tórshavn. There it is possible to find an Italian restaurant, a Chinese one and some fast food outlets inside the SMS shopping center. Outside the capital, the quality of the premises drops considerably. In the Effo and Magn service stations there are usually some fast food services, for those who are traveling the territory.

Drink and go out

The Faroese legal age to drink alcohol is 18. It is quite common to drink alcohol on the islands, especially during a party.

Low-alcohol beer can be purchased anywhere, but other alcohols (including stronger beers, wines, and high-strength spirits) are sold only in government-run venues and bars with special permission. As with other products, alcohol is particularly expensive on the islands.

There are not many places to go out and those that exist are basically concentrated in Tórshavn and Klaksvík, where cafes and bars are concentrated. The main bars in Tórshavn are located near the bay, highlighting some such as Café Natúr, Cirkus Føroyar with its musical shows and the Hvonn bar at Hotel Tórshavn.

Sleep

The islands have a considerable number of rooms for their visitors, with hotels of varying quality.

An interesting alternative is to take advantage of the extensive network of youth hostels that exist in the archipelago. There are usually hostels of this type between the islands, less than a day's walk between them, which is perfect for those who want to freely explore all the corners of the Faroes. Each of these hostels has a capacity of between 2 to 6 rooms of a good standard. Since they do not have a permanent reception, it is advisable to book before arriving at the hostel, either by email or telephone.

Talk

The local language is Faroese, which is a language belonging to the eastern Scandinavian languages. Until the 15th century, Faroese had great similarities with the Norwegian and the Icelandic. The reform of 1538 forced the use of many Danish roots in the words and, although the language of the locals changed, the legends and folk tales kept Old Faroese, so many natives can still speak it.

In 1937, the Faroese replaced the Faroese with the Danish as the official language. Currently, both languages ​​are official, although Faroese is normally spoken by the population. Danish is taught in schools as a foreign language and is required as a second language in schools from the third year.

Most of the population is fluent in English, especially when communicating with tourists. Many can speak other Nordic languages ​​such as Norwegian, Icelandic or Swedish.

Respect

Parade with the Faroese flag during the National Holiday.

A local student in typical Faroese costume.

The people of the Faroes are a highly independent and nationalistic people. The Faroese consider themselves a separate nation, different from the Danes, and that it is only politically united to them through the Rigsfællesskabet, the commonwealth of Denmark, the Faroes and Greenland under the same monarchy. For a Faroese, their relationship with someone from Copenhagen is similar to that of a Spaniard and a German. Even within the islands the Danes are technically considered foreigners for all intents and purposes. The Danes, on the other hand, have a different view on the matter and consider that they form the same nation with some particular differences as a result of geographical separation.

Avoid saying "you are in Denmark" while on the Faroe Islands, let alone tell a Faroese that you are Danish. The Danes also have a strong stereotype of the Faroese as villagers, uncivilized and extremely conservative. These prejudices can be very offensive to a Faroese; Even avoid saying good parenting phrases regarding the benefits of rurality because it can insult more than one local. Similarly, the Faroese are very proud of their customs and traditions, so avoid criticizing them. Whale hunts called grindadráp they are part of your culture, so be very careful before referring to it (see below).

Use caution when touring some towns. While one of the attractions of visiting the Faroes is understanding the culture of these rocks in the middle of the Atlantic, consider that many people live that way and they deserve respect. If you visit the old area of ​​Tórshavn near Tinganes, do not disturb the people who live in the old wooden houses. These houses have become a tourist attraction in recent times, but their inhabitants are increasingly exhausted from the intrusion of visitors into their lives. Also, have respect for colonies of animals, especially birds, and avoid disturbing their environment.

Grindadráp

Some specimens of hunted whales, giving the characteristic red color to the sea of ​​the Faroese fjords.

Probably the best-known postcard in the Faroes is not exactly the most attractive for tourists. Every year, the people of the Faroes organize for the grindadráp or whale and dolphin hunting on its shores. Groups of fishing boats go sailing and manage to divert groups of pilot whales Y atlantic dolphins towards the bottom of a bay and fjord. Once these are stranded on or near the shore, a knife is inserted (grindaknivur) slicing its back. The cetacean dies within a few seconds or minutes. When doing this in large quantities, the blood from the animals stains the sea a strong red color, an image that is undoubtedly difficult for those present to forget.

Whaling is considered by many Faroese not only a fundamental part of their culture but also of their livelihood. Being such a rugged archipelago, there are almost no natural resources outside of whales, whose meat and fat are very common in local cuisine. However, many environmental organizations such as Greenpeace have protested in recent years over what they consider to be a bloody and unnecessary practice.

At present, this activity is heavily regulated. The groups of fishermen must go with an inspector and this is only allowed in certain fjords and bays allowed; hunting in the open ocean is prohibited. The environmental critics have caused several changes, eliminating some techniques that were considered inhumane. Although the event is organized at the community level and anyone can join, the grindadráp It is not a rite of initiation; in fact, to be able to control the whales before sticking the knife, it is necessary that a strong man control it.

Beyond your personal opinion regarding these types of traditions, avoid making any criticism of the Faroese. Your criticism is likely to be unwelcome and instead seen as an insult to the local culture.

external links

• Wikipedia has an article on Faroe Islands.w: Faroe Islands

• Unofficial blog of the Faroe Islands in Spanish
• Wikimedia Commons houses multimedia content about Faroe Islands. Commons

• Agency in Spain specialized in trips to Faroe Islands with guide in Spanish