| Kefalonia | |
 | |
Location  | |
| State | Greece |
|---|---|
| Region | Ionian Islands |
| Capital | Argostoli |
| Surface | 781 km² |
| Inhabitants | 36.404 (2001) |
| Institutional website | |
Kefalonia (Κεφαλληνία in ancient Greek; Κεφαλλονιά or Κεφαλονιά in Greek modern) [1] is one of the Ionian islands.
To know
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For decades, Kefalonia was a "fiefdom" of Thomson Holidays, the British tour operator which, before being absorbed by the German giant TUI, helped make the island a popular destination with its bargain prices. lower-middle class of UK. The subjects of His Britannic Majesty begin to peep into the island as early as May 1st, on the occasion of the closure of the factories where they work. For Italians, all this translates into the risk of not finding accommodation in high season or finding it unsatisfactory and at higher prices.
In the last decade of the twentieth century, Kefalonia seemed to be on the way to becoming a small Florida of the European Union: there were in fact many Germans, English and Austrians who built villas where they intended to retire once they reached retirement age. They were the first to take advantage of the repeal of the law that prohibited foreigners from buying land on the island. (The ban exists for non-EU citizens)
Geographical notes
Kefalonia is a mountainous island whose highest peak is constituted by Mount Ainos which reaches the beauty of 1,600 m. and is often covered with snow in the winter months. The coasts are without exception high and jagged with numerous coves that host seductive beaches, sometimes very wide. To reach them you will have to go through hairpin bends worthy of alpine roads (It is the case of Myrtos is Petani)
The island is at the center of a very seismic area with frequent tremors that do not seem to alarm its inhabitants much; all the buildings that arose after the terrible earthquake of 1953 were built with techniques and materials capable of withstanding the most violent tremors.
When to go
Hoteliers and owners of rented rooms charge super-salary prices in August when everything is sold out. Even in July and in the first fortnight of September it can be difficult to find a free room. Outside the summer period, prices drop a lot and reservations are not necessary, but most hotels open their doors at the end of April and close at the end of October. The hotels of the capital and rented rooms managed by people who live on site.
The climate is naturally Mediterranean and the summer is prolonged at the expense of autumn. Not infrequently, bathing is also possible at the end of October. It should be noted, however, that in recent decades some summer days can be particularly "hot" with temperature peaks such as to make mosquitoes and flies disappear. On the other hand, winters present extremely rigid days: in January 2006 the island, like the rest of the Mediterranean area, was hit in full by a blizzard such as to interrupt normal communications with serious inconvenience for the inhabitants who had a also suffer "hunger" for the lack of supply of supermarkets.
Culture and traditions
Two words about the mentality of the islanders, given that they mention famous tourist guides. The inhabitants of Kefalonia are known in Greece for their particular character which some define euphemistically as "fickle" while they are pleased to call themselves "crazy" and attribute this to the wind that blows on the island. It is probably just a habit. It is true, on the other hand, that it is a "traditionalist", rough and strongly individualistic society whose exponents show that they are very attached to the land and their personal interests. Emblematic characters of Kefalonia are some shipowners of a more or less recent past who have accumulated enormous wealth but are little known to the international public. Among these we mention Vergotis and Vallianou, keeping silent for decency of a third forced to flee Greece around 1990 for fraudulent bankruptcy and reappeared a few years later in Panama with a company whose shares were listed on the New York Stock Exchange. Vergotis contributed to the reconstruction of Kefalonia after the terrible earthquake of 1953. Vallianou, whose statue you will see standing out in the central square of the capital, was in the service of the last Russian tsar, who enjoyed blind trust to the point that during the October revolution he was entrusted many assets of the crown which, due to the precipitate of events, remained forever in his hands and those of his descendants.
Anexartitos[link not working] it is a local newspaper but it is only in language Greek.
Spoken languages
Of course everyone in Kefalonia speaks the Greek. A typical feature of the local dialect (but the word dialect is improper) is the ending -ato found in surnames and toponyms, an evident trace of the long domination VenetianEnglish is very widespread among very young people and tourism professionals. There are not a few mixed Greek-English couples who live in Kefalonia or have moved to UK. Italian, once chewed by the older generations, has now almost disappeared.
Territories and tourist destinations
Kefalonia is not a very large island but having a rather "tormented" geography with peninsulas and secondary promontories, it is possible to distinguish various tourist regions, different from each other also for the type of visitors they welcome.
- Lassi - Located just 1 km from the capital Argostoli, Lassi it was the first area of the island to be equipped with tourist infrastructures, as evidenced by some of its somewhat dated hotels. Its small, pretty beaches are super crowded in summer and host a decent nightlife, a bit "tacky" in truth and full of "noise". A little further south of Lassi are the romantic beaches of Platì is Mikrò Yalò, separated from each other by a small cliff and both equipped with superior category hotels.
- Paliki - The name of the western peninsula of Kefalonia that it pivots on Lixouri, the second inhabited center of the island and connected to Argostoli from a comings and goings of ferries. The most famous beaches of Paliki I'm "Xi", in a red arena and surmounted by the banal bulk of a 1st category hotel, the Cephalonia Palace [2][link not working] and that much more secluded than Petani, devoid of adequate tourist infrastructure but counted among the most beautiful in the Ionian Sea. Although it is quite difficult to reach by land, many young couples, to be honest a little snobbish, gladly pitch their tents on Petanì beach between July and August.
- Leivatho - Still rustic area just south of Argostoli. Livathò is suitable for all those who want a peaceful holiday in a lovely Mediterranean setting of the good old days. After all Argostoli is Lassi with their noisy clubs they are a stone's throw away. Between the beaches of Livatho we quote Pessada, Spartia, Karavados and the wide beach of Avythos opposite the islet of Dias.
- Southeast - Leave the area behind Leivatho, the street Argostoli-Poros climbs on the buttresses of Mount Ainos that drop precipitously into the sea. Beyond the descent, the centers of KateleiosSkala, Poros. Skala has overwhelmingly developed from the end of the twentieth century as a seaside resort to the point of eclipsing those of more ancient date such as Lassi is Fiskardo. Kateleios, with its pretty beaches and its still cheap accommodation, it is considered a fallback solution for those who have not found a place in Skala. However, its hosts go to great lengths to ensure that their guests have a fun-filled stay. There locality has aroused the interest of Thomas Cook who has arranged to reserve some accommodations for its customers to the great regret of individual tourists. Poros it is the small port where ferries from the mainland dock. Although it has a beach and aberghi frequented mostly by families, Poros it has nothing to do with Skala.
- The eastern side - The east coast of the island overlooks the narrow stretch of sea that separates it from Ithaca. Here it is Sami, stopover of ships from Patras, Toast is Bari. 4 km from the port is Antisamis, a magnificent and vast beach that was the backdrop for some scenes from the movie "Captain Corelli's Mandolin". North of Sami are the modest seaside resorts of Karavomilos is Agia Efimia (Saint Euphemia), the latter preferred by young and old who detest formality and affectation and mostly with a common passion: that of the "joint".
- Erisos - The name given to the northern peninsula of Kefalonia, shaped like a pointing finger on the island of Lefkada and separated from Ithaca by a narrow canal. The major tourist center of Erisos is Fiskardo. It began to be fashionable in the late 70s of the twentieth century, when private yachts from Italy and Europe began to call here. It was then a tiny and poor fishing village. Nowadays it is a super crowded seaside resort. However, it retains a very picturesque aspect due to its old houses around the dock, which miraculously escaped the terrible earthquake of 1953. Unfortunately, it has the reputation of not being a cheap location although many yachtsmen have long since removed it from their routes. Along the way from Argostoli to Fiskardo, meet Assos, a super expensive tourist village, rebuilt in a traditional way and even before the beach of Myrtòs, among the most beautiful and renowned in Kefalonia, similar in shape to Petanì but with greater infrastructures.
Urban centers
The main centers of Kefalonia are not exceptional from a tourist point of view. However, people often go there both during the day and in the evening because they are service centers (markets, ATMs, etc.) and offer more opportunities for recreation (At least Argostoli). Here is a list:
- Argostoli - Capital of Kefalonia.
- Lixouri - The most important center after Argostoli.
- Poros - Stop of daily ferries arriving from Kyllini inElis.
- Sami - Main passenger port where both ferries from Patras which then continue on for Ithaca both those from Bari is Toast which often make an internal stop in between Corfu and / or Igoumenitsa.
 Petani beach |  Skala |  Emblisi beach |
 Dafnoudi |  Aghia Jerusalem |
How to get
By plane
Ryanair operates flights from Bergamo and Pisa
Easyjet operates a flight from Milan
There is no bus service and you will have to use a taxi. You will need to agree on the fare before boarding. Pay close attention to taxi drivers because many intend to send you the money saved with the plane ticket. To remedy the probable drain on the wallet, the solution is to have someone come to pick you up from the hotel or have your car brought in airport from the agency where you booked it. If this is not possible, get a taxi to take you to the bus station in Argostoli (Stathmòs KTEL) and then reach your destination by public transport. Keep in mind that bus runs end at 2pm with some exceptions. If, on the other hand, you are headed to one of the beaches of Paliki, be taken to the port of Argostoli. The last ferry to Lixouri leaves around 9pm. Lassi is Svoronata they are very close to the airport so you could try to reach them by taxi.
From Italian ports
- With the ferries of Agoudimos Lines operating on the route Bari - Patras and make a stopover in Sami
- With the ferries of the shipping company Endeavor Lines[link not working] operating on the route Toast - Patras with intermediate stopover a Sami
From Greek ports
From PatrasA ferry departs daily at 12.30 local time Strintzis Lines calling at Sami, main port of Kefalonia. The ship then continues on for Ithaca. The service is valid all year round. Tickets can be purchased at the tiny box office next to the central entrance to the port of Patras (Clock square). The crossing takes about three hours and sometimes there is a connection with ships from Italian ports. The service is enhanced in high season with ships that also leave in the afternoon. Once you disembark at Sami you have to be quick to get into the bus that will take you to your destination. The buses wait on the pier and have the name of the terminus on the windshield (Argostoli, Lixouri, etc)
From AstakosEvery day in the summer from this enchanting port ofAetolia-Acarnania a small ferry leaves every morning with destination Sami. The crossing takes about three hours and it is advisable to book at least the day before, if it is in high season. Out of season, the service may be less regular.
From KylliniFrom this small and desolate port ofElis south of Patras ferries leave for Poros and sometimes for Argostoli. The service is valid all year round and is always managed by Strintzis Lines. The crossing takes about 2 hours and thirty minutes.
From LefkadaFrom Nidrì and from Basilikì, ports of the island of Lefkada, hydrofoils and motor boats depart several times a day in the direction of Fiskardo. The crossing takes about two hours and thirty minutes. Often they make an intermediate stop at Ithaca
From ZakynthosFrom San Nicolò (Agios Nikolaos), a small port on the island of Zakynthos ferries depart three times a day for Pessada. The first ferry leaves at 07:45 local time every day except Wednesday. The second at 17:30 every day always except Wednesday and the third every day (always except Wednesday) at 18:00. The crossing takes one hour. The service is managed by the company Schinari-Pessada local lines (tel .: 302695023984) and is generally valid only for the summer period (generally until the end of October). Sometimes the crossings are canceled.
By bus
From the bus station of Athens-Kifissou buses leave for Kefalonia. There are 3 trips a day and the last one should be at 5pm. The service is valid all year round. The stretch Athens-Patras lasts about 3 hours. The crossing Patras - Sami same to you. The ticket issued at the box office of the Athens bus station it includes the passage by ship.
Other buses always from the station Kifissou of Athens they head to the port of Kyllini where they enter the ferries bound for Poros. The stretch Athens - Kyllini lasts about 4 hours. The crossing Kyllini-Poros lasts 2 hours and 30 minutes.
How to get around
By car
If you plan to visit Kefalonia in the high season (more precisely from 15 July up to a week beyond August) and without your own car in tow, it is better to book a car rental in time, perhaps even on the agencies' website. Considering the greed of taxi drivers and limited public bus rides, a car is the best way to get around. Young people prefer to rent a two-wheeler but even these are difficult to find in August. In addition to contacting the agencies listed below, you will have the opportunity to instruct your hotelier to find you a means of transport. Many owners of rented rooms make at least one small car or some two-wheelers available to their guests, requiring, of course, a supplement.
Below is a list of agencies:
- Kokolis Travel, LASSI, ☎ 30 26710 24476, fax: 30 26710 24869, @[email protected].
- Avis, via Vallianou n ° 3 Argostoli, ☎ 30 26710 29112, fax: 30 26710 24552.
- Hertz-Autohellas, via Vergoti n ° 18 - 28100 Argostoli, ☎ 30 26710 23887, fax: 30 26710 22172.
- Etam Car Hire, Lassi, ☎ 30 26710 25651, fax: 30 26710 25021.
- Cbr Rent, Piazza Vallianu 3, Argostoli, 28100, ☎ 30 26710 22770, fax: 30 26710 83452, @[email protected].
- Europcar, via Papandreou n ° 5 - 28100 Argostoli, ☎ 30 26710 24634, fax: 30 26710 24634.
- Greekstones - Rent a car, Svoronata is Skala.
- Mercury Rent A Car, Lixouri, ☎ 30 26710 29500, fax: 30 26710 29530.
- Budget Rent a Car, Lassi, Argostoli.
By taxi
Pay close attention to Kefalonia taxi drivers: most of them consider the foreign tourist as a chicken to be plucked "with impunity". While waiting for them to desist from this "discriminating" behavior (The rates charged to the premises are within the norm) better to rent a car or a motorcycle. The writer considers it foolish to turn to a taxi for their travels given the greed of the drivers but also because any report made to the tourist police is a waste of time that has not been followed up. For a sum slightly higher than that of a simple taxi ride of a few kilometers, you have a rental car available for the whole day. Car rental agencies are listed in the next section.
By bus
Argostoli it has an suburban bus station that connects the capital with the most remote centers of the island but the timetables are not particularly attractive for tourists. The first ride is early in the morning and the last one at 13:00.
Tourist coaches
Not everyone knows that there are tourist buses that allow you to make the complete tour of Kefalonia, Ithaca is Zakynthos at ridiculously low prices.
- The complete tour of the island of Kefalonia is carried out twice a week: it departs from Argostoli station at 7.15 every Wednesday and Saturday and returns at 21:30. The price is around 20 Euros. The tour includes a visit to the nearby Drogorati and Melissani caves Sami for the entrance of which you pay a separate ticket.
- The Ithaca tour should take place every Friday instead. It starts from Argostoli at 7:45 am and returns at 5:30 pm. The price should be around 30 euros.
Be sure to check the timetables and prices listed above at the Argostoli bus station. Tel 30 26710 22276, 30 26710 22281, 30 26710 23364
What see
At the archaeological museum of Argostoli, very small but extremely interesting according to experts, are exhibited objects from excavations carried out in various parts of the island. Kefalonia boasts several archaeological sites but all of them have a specialized interest. The most striking ruins are those of Mazarakata in the area of Leivatho
The long Venetian dominion is little attested due to the disastrous earthquake of 1953 which razed every building to the ground. The castle of San Giorgio remains in the area of Leivatho, which dominates the street from above Argostoli-Poros. Definitely recommended a visit in the hour before sunset. The surrounding area is very pleasant and full of bars. Another ruined medieval castle towers over Assos, and is connected to the town by a long walk that will give you breathtaking views.
Itineraries
- Ithaca - Accessible individually with a crossing of 1/4 of an hour from the port of Sami or with the tour offered by the KTEL service (Information at the bus station of Argostoli)
- Zakynthos - Reachable by ferry from the pier of Pessada with a crossing of less than an hour.
Events and parties
In the summer shows with traditional Greek dances are organized in Karavomilos it's at Lixouri
A very revered (Orthodox) saint on the island is Agios Gerasimos, whose church, a pilgrimage destination, is located on a side street at the crossroads of the castle of San Giorgio
What to do
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Recreational activities are limited to typical beach sports such as water skiing. Kefalonia is certainly a destination suitable for young people but above all for middle-class families and elderly couples in search of tranquility and captivated by the vision of the dull "Captain Corelli's Mandolin". Sometimes superior hotel managers in smaller towns do their utmost to keep their guests from getting bored. It must be said, however, that their clientele is exclusively made up of Anglo-Saxons who are very close to each other and if you do not speak fluent English or are not familiar with the way of doing the English middle-lower classes, you risk feeling like a " fish out of water ". TO Fiskardo and ad Agia Efimia however, the Italians are not so few. The former generally have a haughty attitude, the latter have far too quick ways.
"Queens" of the nights of Kefalonia are Argostoli, in the area between Piazza Vallianou and the underlying promenade and the nearby Lassi, the latter too noisy and for the use and consumption of English tribes and perhaps not very suited to the tastes of us Italians. However, don't expect trendy clubs and if your ears are refined you better change your destination. Elsewhere the nightlife can be almost deadly but if you stay in a quiet village of Livatho you can reach it Argostoli or Lassi in less than 20 minutes. Many beaches such as that of Avithos and sometimes that of Xi, are quite lively even in the late evening, frequented by groups of young people who walk there and sometimes light some bonfires improvising a dinner.
In Kefalonia near Peratata, there is also a brothel nestled on the steep slopes of the hill of the Castle of San Giorgio. It is actually a nasty brothel worthy of appearing in a vampire movie and coincidentally the landlady, similar in appearance to a grim version of the film character of Morticia, chews Italian, because, at least according to her, there are many Italians who make a recurring visit to her and her girls hired in various parts of the Balkan Peninsula.
At the table
In no restaurant in Kefalonia are there chefs who have attracted international attention. The locals show a real passion for grilled meats (especially lamb). A very popular tavern (among the residents) in this field is that of Travliata, a tiny village behind the castle of San Giorgio along the road that leads to the monastery of Aghios Gerasimos. The owner is a breeder with a voluminous mustache that gives him a Bluebeard look.
Drinks
The island produces wines derived from indigenous grapes. The most famous is the Robola, a dry white wine famous throughout Greece, but produced almost exclusively in Kefalonia.
It is not uncommon to find taverns that are proud to offer the house bulk wine, generally produced by the owner or by the family. Less widespread is the resin wine, unlike mainland Greece.
By now Greek beers have almost disappeared, they have given way to malt multinationals.
Non-alcoholic drinks range from fruit juices to portocalada is lemonada, to get to the very popular in summer frapé (cold coffee)
Greek coffee is served throughout the island (kafedaki), prepared as usual in three different flavors: sketo (bitter and strong), metrium (medium) e varì glikò (very sweet and strong), to be sipped slowly, obviously avoiding drinking the very dense base.
The ouzo is par excellence the aperitif drink, always served with mezedes (classic appetizers).
At the end of the meal you can taste, after coffee, the local brandy (Metaxa).
However, residents' preferences go to whiskey which has long since supplanted traditional Greek spirits.
Tourist infrastructure
If reaching Kefalonia is no longer a problem thanks to the seasonal flights of low cost airlines, finding a hotel room in the high season is not as easy, as mentioned in the introduction. The advice is not to leave in August without having booked in advance.
Free camping is practiced, even if expressly forbidden by a state regulation. Nobody will ever fine you but, if you want to avoid serious dangers, you should at least have the foresight to pitch your tents close to other campers and never alone. The beach of Petani it is a great destination for young people traveling with a sleeping bag.
A campsite belonging to the national federation, if it still exists, is located 1.5 km from Argostoli, along the coast road to the old lighthouse (Fanari) Τel .: 30 26710 23487 Fax: 30 26710 24525 Τel. (in the winter months): 30 210 6832373 website[link not working]. Another is located at Karavomilos, close Samiwww.camping-karavomilos.gr but both have nothing to do with Petani's virgin beauty.
Higher category hotels, especially in the most renowned tourist resorts (Lassi) work with major European tour operators. Non-seaside hotels and rooms for rent remain at the disposal of individual travelers. However, these too can count on a loyal clientele. Unfortunately, even the "room to left" in tourist centers not of the highest order (Kateleios, close Skala) are booked by tour operators of the caliber of Thomas Cook so the margins for individual travelers seem to be thinner even more.
On the net there are several portals reserved for rooms or tourist apartments offered for rent. You will pay a commission but if you contact the owner directly you could get prices ... "taller!"
Hotels and other types of accommodation are listed in the articles dedicated to the individual locations.
Safety
Kefalonia is a safe island but here too, as in most Greek islands, some precautions must be taken. One is the one previously mentioned to never camp alone. The other is to never linger, whether alone or as a couple, on isolated beaches, no matter how seductive they are. You will have the false impression that you are completely alone but be sure that someone is spying on your every move from the top of the bushes. Strictly speaking, it should be remembered that in the 90s some Albanian elements (a very large community in Kefalonia) killed a tourist. Earlier there was a case of rape against an English tourist who was sunbathing on a deserted beach of Livathò, which deeply shocked local public opinion. The culprit, a young local pastor, was caught by the police within hours. Evidently in such a small community (Kefalonia has around 30,000 inhabitants in all) the police know the vices and virtues of each one.
- Tourist police, via Ioannis Metaxas n ° 52, Argostoli 28100, ☎ 30 26710 22815.
Myrtos beach
The beach of Mania
Stretch of coast near the monastery of the Ortolani friars (monì kipureon)
The small lake of Melissani
